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Star duckweed
Star duckweed
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Lemna trisulca
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Care Guide for Star duckweed

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Slightly acidic
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Star duckweed
Sunlight
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Questions About Star duckweed

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Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Star duckweed?
There are plenty of viable ways to supply your Star duckweed with water. If you grow your plant in an indoor pot, for the Star duckweeds in small pots, you can bring your potted plant to your kitchen sink. Then, use the faucet to add water to the container. By holding the pot in your hands, you should easily notice when the water begins to run through the pot’s drainage holes, at which point you can stop watering. The cold temperature will hurt the plants' root system, so please don't do this during winter or in cold climates. Most of the time, watering via your faucet is permissible for the Star duckweed. However, if the local tap water contains a high proportion of fluorine, chlorine or salts, you should consider using rainwater or lake water. Also, since the Star duckweed can respond well to overhead watering and watering directly into the soil, you can use a watering can, hose, or just about any tool you’d like to water it.
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What should I do if I water my Star duckweed too much or too little?
If you discover that you have underwatered your Star duckweed, your first step towards remedying the situation is to give your plant some water. Water deeply until excess water runs from the container’s drainage hole, or if you grow outside, water until the soil has become entirely moist. If you find your Star duckweed is receiving too much water, begin by reducing your watering schedule. You also want to address the soil and container your Star duckweed grows in. If either the soil or the container makes it difficult for water to drain efficiently, your plant will likely become overwatered again. Resolve the issue by moving your plant to looser soils and/or a container with bigger drainage holes or a more porous material. Also check the location of the plant. If the plant is in places like a corner, then it is recommended to move it to a window or around a door to enhance ventilation. Making sure the plants are in a well-ventilated location can reduce the occurrence of overwatering to some extent.
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How often should I water my Star duckweed?
The Star duckweed is not a species that requires consistent soil moisture. Instead, it is better to allow this plant’s soil to become dry between waterings. If you are like the many gardeners who grow Star duckweeds in containers, you can judge whether or not it is time to add water by how dry the soil within the container is. For instance, if about top half of the soil in your container has become dry, it is time to add water. You can feel it by inserting your fingers or sticks into the soil or with soil moisture meter. For those who grow the Star duckweed outdoors, you can plan to do your watering about once every other week, provided it has not rained recently.
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How much water does my Star duckweed need?
After waiting for the first several layers of soil surrounding your Star duckweed’s root to become dry(top half of the soil), it is time to add enough water to make them moist again. The amount of water it takes to achieve that goal depends on if you use a container, how large that container is, and how large your plant itself is. For a small Star duckweed growing in a small to a medium-sized container, one to two cups may be enough to dampen the soil sufficiently. As you would expect, the volume of water you supply should increase for a larger plant. The best way to make sure your plant has received enough water is to stick your finger or a trowel into the soil and feel whether it is entirely moist. Alternatively, you can water until you see excess water draining from the holes at the bottom of your container.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Star duckweed enough?
Overwatering and underwatering are both bad for the health of your Star duckweed. These two issues also manifest themselves in subtly different ways when they occur. Star duckweed that receives too little water may begin to develop yellow leaves. Underwatering may also cause the leaf margins to become brown and brittle. By contrast, Star duckweed that gets overwatered will often show yellow and brown marks on its leaves at the same time. Overwatering can also lead to diseases like root rot, some of which may also be visible on your plant. However, if you know the signs of overwatering and underwatering, you stand a good chance of correcting both issues.
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How should I water my Star duckweed through the seasons?
During spring and fall, your watering schedule for the Star duckweed will remain relatively the same, which will involve watering this plant about once every week. During summer, you may find that the hot weather causes your plant to need more water than usual, especially if it grows where there is a considerable amount of daily light exposure. In the winter, if it's hard to find some warm places for you plant, your Star duckweed will enter a dormant growth phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. At this time, you may get by without watering your plant at all. If you do choose to water during winter, you should not do so more often than once every two to three weeks.
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How should I water my Star duckweed at different growth stages?
After planting a new, young Star duckweed or after transplanting an older Star duckweed, you will probably need to give this plant more water than usual. Young plants often need consistent soil moisture during the early stages of their growth to help them adapt to their new growing locations. Transplants also need more water for a brief time to overcome transplant shock. In either case, you may need to water multiple times per week until your plant has exhibited continuous healthy growth. In most situations, your water should be moderate and should never be significant enough to cause overwatering.
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What's the difference between watering Star duckweed indoors and outdoors?
There are a few reasons why you may need to water an indoor Star duckweed more often than one that grows in the ground outdoors. First, indoor growing settings tend to be drier than outdoor ones, often due to the effect of air conditioning units. While thw size of the pot and the soil determines the warer accumulating ability. Additionally, when your plant grows indoors, it will rely on you entirely for its water By contrast, Star duckweed that grows outside can receive water from rain. If you are in an area with high rainfall, you may not have to give it extra watering. When there is not enough rain, you should water additionally to ensure that the soil does not dry out completely.
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Key Facts About Star duckweed

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Attributes of Star duckweed

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Herb
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer, Fall
Plant Height
9 cm
Flower Size
1 mm
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
5 - 32 ℃
Growth Season
Summer
Growth Rate:Rapid
In summer, the rapid growth rate of star duckweed significantly affects its morphological development, big leaf production, and prolific floating mats. This emergent aquatic plant's explosive growth can lead to complete water surface coverage in optimal conditions. Growth rate slows down in other seasons but remains high in its active season.

Scientific Classification of Star duckweed

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Star duckweed

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Common issues for Star duckweed based on 10 million real cases
Fire ants
Fire ants Fire ants
Fire ants
Fire ants gnaw on the roots of plants and are aggressive toward people.
Solutions: Caution: fire ants are venomous and cause painful bites which can be fatal in the case of a rare but significant allergy. Fire ants can be a painful pest to have around for you and your plants. Keeping them under control will ensure comfortable gardening for all. For less severe cases: Physically remove mounds. Dig out and remove entire mounds (remember, they go deeper than they seem). Use citrus oil. Pour citrus oil, which is toxic to fire ants, down their holes. For severe cases: Use ant bait. For a chemical solution, broadcast insecticide bait formulated for fire ants in the area around a mound. Apply the bait during a dry evening so the ants can forage for it at night. Look for products that contain Indoxacarb. Release phorid flies. Introduce or promote beneficial phorid flies to gardens. These parasitic flies attack invasive fire ants. Hire a professional. Some ant baits are only available to professional exterminators. For serious cases of fire ants, consider hiring a professional.
Fruit withering
Fruit withering Fruit withering
Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Gray mold
Gray mold Gray mold
Gray mold
Gray mold generates a gray-brown mold on the leaf surface that can be wiped away.
Solutions: Simple measures can be taken to reduce and stop the spread of gray mold. For minor fungus growth: Remove infected tissue. Remove and burn, dispose, or bury infected plants and plant parts. Infected parts can be deeply buried (at least 30 cm down) if burning is not permitted. Be sure to clean and disinfect pruning equipment to prevent the spread of infection. Do not compost infected parts. Remove debris. Clean between plants to prevent the spread to other surrounding plants. Pick up remaining debris around plants to reduce or eliminate mold spores from traveling to other plants. For more serious fungus growth: Use organic fungicide. Treat the entire plant with an organic fungicide as early as possible. A copper fungicide can be applied every 1-2 weeks once the plants are infected, and repeat until healed.
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Fire ants
plant poor
Fire ants
Fire ants gnaw on the roots of plants and are aggressive toward people.
Overview
Overview
Fire ants are a group of ants that are known for their aggressive behavior and painful stings. Some fire ants are native and others are invasive from other countries. Once they reach plants, they climb them and chew away at leaves and flower buds.
Fire ants also kill and eat beneficial insects such as caterpillars, ladybugs, mantis, and native ants. They can be a problem any time temperatures are above freezing, but new infestations are most likely to appear when brought in via contaminated material such as potting soil or mulch, or when insecticides have harmed populations of beneficial insects that would otherwise control populations of fire ants.
They can be difficult to control, especially once populations become large. Plant damage is typically minor, but fire ants can destroy seedlings.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The number one symptom of fire ants is seeing the ants themselves which are red or black in color. Ant mounds in the ground are also signs. Fire ant mounds rarely exceed 46 cm in diameter. If a fire ant mound is disturbed, many fast-moving, aggressive ants will emerge. These ants will bite and then painfully sting.
Even if no ants are visible, their damage might be apparent. Chewed leaf and flower edges might indicate fire ants. Fully eaten seedlings are another sign.
Solutions
Solutions
Caution: fire ants are venomous and cause painful bites which can be fatal in the case of a rare but significant allergy.
Fire ants can be a painful pest to have around for you and your plants. Keeping them under control will ensure comfortable gardening for all.
For less severe cases:
  • Physically remove mounds. Dig out and remove entire mounds (remember, they go deeper than they seem).
  • Use citrus oil. Pour citrus oil, which is toxic to fire ants, down their holes.
For severe cases:
  • Use ant bait. For a chemical solution, broadcast insecticide bait formulated for fire ants in the area around a mound. Apply the bait during a dry evening so the ants can forage for it at night. Look for products that contain Indoxacarb.
  • Release phorid flies. Introduce or promote beneficial phorid flies to gardens. These parasitic flies attack invasive fire ants.
  • Hire a professional. Some ant baits are only available to professional exterminators. For serious cases of fire ants, consider hiring a professional.
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Fruit withering
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Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Overview
Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
  1. Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
  2. Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
  3. Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
  4. Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.
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Gray mold
plant poor
Gray mold
Gray mold generates a gray-brown mold on the leaf surface that can be wiped away.
Overview
Overview
Gray mold is a fungal bloom that can be quite detrimental to plants. The fungus is not host-specific, attacking both herbaceous and woody plants. It is one of the most destructive plant pathogens, affecting many ornamental flowering plants, fruits, and vegetable species worldwide.
The fungal spores survive on dead plant tissues, and the dusty, grey spores spread via air currents or splashing water droplets to readily infect delicate tissues like flowers and fruits. Infection rates are highest in wet or very humid conditions. Because of this, gray mold is common in plants raised in greenhouses.
If the disease is mild, plants can recover once conditions become warm and dry again. In severe cases, the grey mold blocks sunlight and air from getting to the plant tissues, resulting in plant death. Once detected, fungicides can prevent transmission, but they do not treat the established infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Most commonly, the plant will have dusty gray or darker brown fuzzy mold covering leaves, stems, flowers, or other plants parts. A closer look at the spots reveal damaged or decaying plant tissue, which is overtaken by the fuzzy spores. This is a classic sign of gray mold, a pathogenic fungus that feeds on the nutrients of dying plant material, and will eventually destroy healthy parts of plants once infected.
Flower petals may show brown spots, and infected buds may turn black or brown. Spots on leaves can form brown splotches that darken at the center as they increase in size. Blighting can affect entire leaves and progress down into the stems. This infection can result in death of the entire plant.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Gray mold is caused by a fungal infection with Botrytis cinerea. It breeds in dead leaves and plant debris, creating spores that can spread to nearby living plants via wind or splashing water. Infections are more likely to occur under certain conditions:
  • Plant injuries such as broken stems, damaged leaves, or pierced petals - the tissue becomes more susceptible to fungus when there are wounds that create openings into the plant.
  • High humidity or overly moist conditions - Botrytis thrives in wet conditions. Water and wind carry spores that splash against plants and create the ideal conditions for fungus growth.
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Leaf beetles
plant poor
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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distribution

Distribution of Star duckweed

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Distribution Map of Star duckweed

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Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Star Duckweed Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
Lighting
Full sun
Star duckweed thrives under significant solar exposure, promoting a strong and healthy growth. Originated in habitats characterized by continuous sunlight exposure, it's resilient to light exposure, however, excessive or scarce sunlight might interfere with its growth and health. Different stages of its growth aren't significantly affected by changes in light.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
-25 - 35 ℃
Star duckweed is native to environments that typically experience a temperature range of 41 to 89.6°F (5 to 32 ℃). It has a preference for moderate climates and can adjust well to seasonal shifts, although temperatures should be carefully monitored to stay within its preferred range.
Temp for Healthy Growth
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Plants Related to Star duckweed

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Chinese hackberry
Chinese hackberry
This deciduous tree, the chinese hackberry or Celtis sinensis, is a deciduous tree and a member of the hemp family. It can grow to about 18 m tall. It can be considered invasive.
Burningbush
Burningbush
Burningbush (Euonymus atropurpureus) is a deciduous tree that will grow from 3.5 to 6 m tall. It blooms from late spring to early summer with tiny maroon flowers that bloom profusely. Fruits follow flowering and consists of seed capsules that turn crimson as they ripen in fall. Thrives in full sun or partial shade with medium moist, well-drained soil. Attracts birds and wildlife. Ideal for a woodland garden or planted as a hedge or screen.
Blue tweedia
Blue tweedia
Blue tweedia (Oxypetalum coeruleum) is an evergreen perennial that will grow to 99 cm long. Leaves are heart shaped and provide a nice background to the pale blue, star-shaped flowers. It blooms from summer to fall. A common name for this plant is the Southern star. Although it is a perennial, it is sometimes grown as an annual in the garden due to its tendency to grow a bit scraggly.
Bishop Wood
Bishop Wood
In the jungles of Assam (a state in northern India), tigers scratch bishop Wood (Bischofia javanica) to mark their territory. In China, the aboriginal people consider bishop Wood to be sacred. Some people use the fruit of the tree to make wine.
Bebb's willow
Bebb's willow
Bebb's willow (Salix bebbiana) is a multi-stemmed deciduous tree that will grow to 8 m tall. The bark is reddish-brown with narrow leaves tapered at both ends. Catkin flowers bloom spring to summer and are yellowish with red tips. This tree is also called Beaked Willow because it produces capsule-shaped fruits with long beaks. This species best in partial shade but can grow in full sunlight in moist soil.
Apple-of-peru
Apple-of-peru
Apple-of-peru (Nicandra physalodes) is a flowering plant that’s a member of the nightshade family. Another name for it is shoo-fly plant. It was called this because years ago, juices from the leaves and roots were mixed with milk in a dish. This attracted flies who drank the blend. Since it was poisonous, the flies died. This species is native to South America.
Poison ivy
Poison ivy
In pop culture, poison ivy is a symbol of an obnoxious weed because, despite its unthreatening looks, it gives a highly unpleasant contact rash to the unfortunate person who touches it. Still, it is commonly eaten by many animals, and the seeds are a favorite with birds. The leaves turn bright red in fall. Its sister species, Western poison ivy (Toxicodendron rydbergii), is not considered to be invasive in the United States, but is noxious in Australia and New Zealand.
Pokeweed
Pokeweed
Although its berries look juicy and tempting, the fruits and the root of pokeweed are toxic and should not be eaten. Pokeweed is considered a pest species by farmers but is nevertheless often grown as an ornamental plant. Its berries can be made into pokeberry ink as well.
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Star duckweed
Star duckweed
Star duckweed
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Lemna trisulca
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
4 to 8
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Care Guide for Star duckweed

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Questions About Star duckweed

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Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Star duckweed?
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What should I do if I water my Star duckweed too much or too little?
more
How often should I water my Star duckweed?
more
How much water does my Star duckweed need?
more
How can I tell if i'm watering my Star duckweed enough?
more
How should I water my Star duckweed through the seasons?
more
How should I water my Star duckweed at different growth stages?
more
What's the difference between watering Star duckweed indoors and outdoors?
more
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Key Facts About Star duckweed

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Attributes of Star duckweed

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Herb
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer, Fall
Plant Height
9 cm
Flower Size
1 mm
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
5 - 32 ℃
Growth Season
Summer
Growth Rate:Rapid
In summer, the rapid growth rate of star duckweed significantly affects its morphological development, big leaf production, and prolific floating mats. This emergent aquatic plant's explosive growth can lead to complete water surface coverage in optimal conditions. Growth rate slows down in other seasons but remains high in its active season.
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Scientific Classification of Star duckweed

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Star duckweed

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Common issues for Star duckweed based on 10 million real cases
Fire ants
Fire ants Fire ants Fire ants
Fire ants gnaw on the roots of plants and are aggressive toward people.
Solutions: Caution: fire ants are venomous and cause painful bites which can be fatal in the case of a rare but significant allergy. Fire ants can be a painful pest to have around for you and your plants. Keeping them under control will ensure comfortable gardening for all. For less severe cases: Physically remove mounds. Dig out and remove entire mounds (remember, they go deeper than they seem). Use citrus oil. Pour citrus oil, which is toxic to fire ants, down their holes. For severe cases: Use ant bait. For a chemical solution, broadcast insecticide bait formulated for fire ants in the area around a mound. Apply the bait during a dry evening so the ants can forage for it at night. Look for products that contain Indoxacarb. Release phorid flies. Introduce or promote beneficial phorid flies to gardens. These parasitic flies attack invasive fire ants. Hire a professional. Some ant baits are only available to professional exterminators. For serious cases of fire ants, consider hiring a professional.
Learn More About the Fire ants more
Fruit withering
Fruit withering Fruit withering Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Learn More About the Fruit withering more
Gray mold
Gray mold Gray mold Gray mold
Gray mold generates a gray-brown mold on the leaf surface that can be wiped away.
Solutions: Simple measures can be taken to reduce and stop the spread of gray mold. For minor fungus growth: Remove infected tissue. Remove and burn, dispose, or bury infected plants and plant parts. Infected parts can be deeply buried (at least 30 cm down) if burning is not permitted. Be sure to clean and disinfect pruning equipment to prevent the spread of infection. Do not compost infected parts. Remove debris. Clean between plants to prevent the spread to other surrounding plants. Pick up remaining debris around plants to reduce or eliminate mold spores from traveling to other plants. For more serious fungus growth: Use organic fungicide. Treat the entire plant with an organic fungicide as early as possible. A copper fungicide can be applied every 1-2 weeks once the plants are infected, and repeat until healed.
Learn More About the Gray mold more
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Fire ants
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Fire ants
Fire ants gnaw on the roots of plants and are aggressive toward people.
Overview
Overview
Fire ants are a group of ants that are known for their aggressive behavior and painful stings. Some fire ants are native and others are invasive from other countries. Once they reach plants, they climb them and chew away at leaves and flower buds.
Fire ants also kill and eat beneficial insects such as caterpillars, ladybugs, mantis, and native ants. They can be a problem any time temperatures are above freezing, but new infestations are most likely to appear when brought in via contaminated material such as potting soil or mulch, or when insecticides have harmed populations of beneficial insects that would otherwise control populations of fire ants.
They can be difficult to control, especially once populations become large. Plant damage is typically minor, but fire ants can destroy seedlings.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The number one symptom of fire ants is seeing the ants themselves which are red or black in color. Ant mounds in the ground are also signs. Fire ant mounds rarely exceed 46 cm in diameter. If a fire ant mound is disturbed, many fast-moving, aggressive ants will emerge. These ants will bite and then painfully sting.
Even if no ants are visible, their damage might be apparent. Chewed leaf and flower edges might indicate fire ants. Fully eaten seedlings are another sign.
Solutions
Solutions
Caution: fire ants are venomous and cause painful bites which can be fatal in the case of a rare but significant allergy.
Fire ants can be a painful pest to have around for you and your plants. Keeping them under control will ensure comfortable gardening for all.
For less severe cases:
  • Physically remove mounds. Dig out and remove entire mounds (remember, they go deeper than they seem).
  • Use citrus oil. Pour citrus oil, which is toxic to fire ants, down their holes.
For severe cases:
  • Use ant bait. For a chemical solution, broadcast insecticide bait formulated for fire ants in the area around a mound. Apply the bait during a dry evening so the ants can forage for it at night. Look for products that contain Indoxacarb.
  • Release phorid flies. Introduce or promote beneficial phorid flies to gardens. These parasitic flies attack invasive fire ants.
  • Hire a professional. Some ant baits are only available to professional exterminators. For serious cases of fire ants, consider hiring a professional.
Prevention
Prevention
Fire ants become more difficult to control as they establish themselves, so try to prevent them or treat them early.
  • Monitor new material. Do not bring in any soil or plants from known infested areas, unless if they are "Quarantine Approved." Make sure to check new material for fire ants.
  • Apply insecticide. Some warm and humid areas have high fire ants populations. In these areas, spread a granular fire ants insecticide such as Varsity in the spring near gardens to prevent these unwelcome visitors.
  • Treat early. Spot treat at the first sight of any fire ants mound, as larger mounds are more difficult to treat.
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Fruit withering
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Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Overview
Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
  1. Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
  2. Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
  3. Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
  4. Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.
Solutions
Solutions
There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering:
  1. Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost.
  2. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventative measures include:
  1. Ensuring adequate spacing between plants or trees.
  2. Staking plants that are prone to tumbling to prevent moisture or humidity build up.
  3. Prune correctly so that there is adequate air movement and remove any dead or diseased branches that may carry spores.
  4. Practice good plant hygiene by removing fallen material and destroying it as soon as possible.
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Gray mold
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Gray mold
Gray mold generates a gray-brown mold on the leaf surface that can be wiped away.
Overview
Overview
Gray mold is a fungal bloom that can be quite detrimental to plants. The fungus is not host-specific, attacking both herbaceous and woody plants. It is one of the most destructive plant pathogens, affecting many ornamental flowering plants, fruits, and vegetable species worldwide.
The fungal spores survive on dead plant tissues, and the dusty, grey spores spread via air currents or splashing water droplets to readily infect delicate tissues like flowers and fruits. Infection rates are highest in wet or very humid conditions. Because of this, gray mold is common in plants raised in greenhouses.
If the disease is mild, plants can recover once conditions become warm and dry again. In severe cases, the grey mold blocks sunlight and air from getting to the plant tissues, resulting in plant death. Once detected, fungicides can prevent transmission, but they do not treat the established infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Most commonly, the plant will have dusty gray or darker brown fuzzy mold covering leaves, stems, flowers, or other plants parts. A closer look at the spots reveal damaged or decaying plant tissue, which is overtaken by the fuzzy spores. This is a classic sign of gray mold, a pathogenic fungus that feeds on the nutrients of dying plant material, and will eventually destroy healthy parts of plants once infected.
Flower petals may show brown spots, and infected buds may turn black or brown. Spots on leaves can form brown splotches that darken at the center as they increase in size. Blighting can affect entire leaves and progress down into the stems. This infection can result in death of the entire plant.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Gray mold is caused by a fungal infection with Botrytis cinerea. It breeds in dead leaves and plant debris, creating spores that can spread to nearby living plants via wind or splashing water. Infections are more likely to occur under certain conditions:
  • Plant injuries such as broken stems, damaged leaves, or pierced petals - the tissue becomes more susceptible to fungus when there are wounds that create openings into the plant.
  • High humidity or overly moist conditions - Botrytis thrives in wet conditions. Water and wind carry spores that splash against plants and create the ideal conditions for fungus growth.
Solutions
Solutions
Simple measures can be taken to reduce and stop the spread of gray mold.
For minor fungus growth:
  • Remove infected tissue. Remove and burn, dispose, or bury infected plants and plant parts. Infected parts can be deeply buried (at least 30 cm down) if burning is not permitted. Be sure to clean and disinfect pruning equipment to prevent the spread of infection. Do not compost infected parts.
  • Remove debris. Clean between plants to prevent the spread to other surrounding plants. Pick up remaining debris around plants to reduce or eliminate mold spores from traveling to other plants.
For more serious fungus growth:
  • Use organic fungicide. Treat the entire plant with an organic fungicide as early as possible. A copper fungicide can be applied every 1-2 weeks once the plants are infected, and repeat until healed.
Prevention
Prevention
As with most fungal diseases, it is far easier to take steps to prevent gray mold than it is to treat it once it appears. Here are some steps.
  • Use proper spacing. When first planting plants, space plants apart at the recommended spacing. Be sure that they are getting enough air flow and water will not collect between them.
  • Apply mulch around plants. A good organic mulch spread directly around plants can prevent water splashing mold spores up to them.
  • Keep plants dry. Do not overhead water. Use drip irrigation or water at the base to prevent leaves from becoming too wet and inviting mold growth.
  • Be careful not to wound plants. Wounded parts make plants more susceptible to fungus. Take care when harvesting, pruning, or caring for the garden to prevent unnecessary plant injury.
  • Sanitize. Make sure to sanitize pruning equipment and other garden tools to prevent the spread of pathogens.
  • Use fungicide. To prevent gray mold from getting started, apply a fungicide in the early spring.
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Leaf beetles
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
  1. Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
  2. Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
  3. Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
  4. Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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distribution

Distribution of Star duckweed

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Distribution Map of Star duckweed

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Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Star Duckweed Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
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Plants Related to Star duckweed

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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Star duckweed thrives under significant solar exposure, promoting a strong and healthy growth. Originated in habitats characterized by continuous sunlight exposure, it's resilient to light exposure, however, excessive or scarce sunlight might interfere with its growth and health. Different stages of its growth aren't significantly affected by changes in light.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Star duckweed thrives in full sunlight and is commonly grown outdoors where it receives ample sunlight. When placed in rooms with inadequate lighting, symptoms of light deficiency may not be readily apparent.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Star duckweed may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Star duckweed enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Star duckweed thrives in full sun exposure and can tolerate intense sunlight. With their remarkable resilience, symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible, as they rarely suffer from it.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Star duckweed is native to environments that typically experience a temperature range of 41 to 89.6°F (5 to 32 ℃). It has a preference for moderate climates and can adjust well to seasonal shifts, although temperatures should be carefully monitored to stay within its preferred range.
Regional wintering strategies
Star duckweed has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by covering the plant with materials such as soil or straw. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in Star duckweed
Star duckweed is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, there may be a decrease in sprouting or even no sprouting during springtime.
Solutions
In spring, remove any parts that have failed to sprout.
Symptoms of High Temperature in Star duckweed
During summer, Star duckweed should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, prone to curling, susceptible to sunburn, and in severe cases, the entire plant may wilt and become dry.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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