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Living stone
Living stone
Living stone
Living stone
Lithops pseudotruncatella subsp. archerae
The living stone resembles small, colorful stones. With its flowers emerging from the narrow gaps between two leaves, many people also refer to it as the "living stone Flower". Distinguishing native living stone from gravel scattered on the ground can be a real challenge to many people, but this can be overcome by growing it in a container. With its unique shape and high ornamental value, the living stone has become a very popular potted plant in recent years.
Planting Time
Planting Time
Winter, Early spring
care guide

Care Guide for Living stone

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Watering Care
Watering Care
Average water needs,watering when the top 3 cm of soil has dried out.
Details on Watering Care Watering Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilization once a month during the growing season.
Details on Fertilizing Care Fertilizing Care
Pruning
Pruning
Deadhead (or remove) withered flowers after flowering.
Details on Pruning Pruning
Repotting
Repotting
It takes 2-3 years for potted lithops pseudotruncatella subsp. archerae to blossom. Both pot and soil-changing are carried out in autumn.
Details on Repotting Repotting
Ideal Lighting
Ideal Lighting
Full sun, Partial sun
Details on Sunlight Requirements Ideal Lighting
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Living stone
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
10 to 11
Planting Time
Planting Time
Winter, Early spring
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Questions About Living stone

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Watering Watering Watering
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What should I do if I water my Living stone too much or too little?
Underwatered Living stone Living stone and other succulents can endure long periods without water, so it’s unusual to find one of these suffering from underwatering. But, if you somehow forgot about your plant and neglected to water it for a month or more, you’ll probably find your Living stone looking thirsty or with some damage from lack of watering. It is very easy to identify an underwatered Living stone. Plant look lacklustre and wrinkled. Some may have dried up completely, turned brown and crispy, or dropped off the plant. And of course, the soil will be completely dried out. If your Living stone is thirsty and underwatered, give it plenty of water as soon as possible. Submerging the pot entirely in water for about 5-10 minutes is a good way to make sure the soil and plant are rehydrated properly. When you feel a sense of moisture on the surface of the soil with your finger, it means the watering is done properly. Overwatered Living stone Overwatering is dangerous to Living stone and can be fatal to your plant if you don’t remedy the situation. Too much moisture over time leads to root rot, which prevents the roots from being able to absorb nutrients and water from the soil. Root rot occurs when wet conditions allow fungi and bacteria to flourish in the soil and feed on roots. When you find that it's overwatered, you'd better change the growing conditions, place it somewhere with more air ventilation and adjust water frequency, for example. The symptoms of overwatering are yellow, swollen, and translucent organs that may even burst open from being over-full with water. If the problem continues without being treated, plant might turn brown or black, and fall off the plant at the slightest touch. Be sure to check the soil to determine if overwatering is the culprit, as some other issues can cause similar symptoms. It’s a bit difficult (but not impossible) to save an overwatered plant. The key is catching it early before a lot of damage has occurred. If the roots become rotten, it is likely to kill the entire plant. If you suspect you have overwatered your Living stone, the first step is to remove it from its pot and check the roots and soil. After removing the plant from its pot, gently remove wet soil from around the roots and then rinse them clean in room-temperature water. This helps with removing fungus that might be lurking in the soil and allows you to get a better sense of how healthy the roots are. If your plant has already developed root rot, you will see roots that are dark brown or black, soft, mushy, or slimy. If the majority of the roots are already affected by root rot, it may not be possible to save the plant. In this case, it is best to remove any healthy stem and try to use these to propagate a new Living stone. If, on the other hand, only a portion of the roots have succumbed to rot and other healthy roots still remain, there is a chance it can be saved. Use a sterilized cutting tool to remove any unhealthy-looking roots. Once you're left with only the firm, pale roots, it’s a good idea to dip them in a fungicide to kill off any remaining spores. After that you can repot your Living stone in fresh, free-draining potting soil. While this does not always work to save a succulent with root rot, in most cases this plant will be able to make a full recovery and will put out new growth starting in the next growing season.
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How often should I water my Living stone?
There’s not a hard-and-fast rule for how often to water Living stone. The best way to determine this is to check the soil and only water when it’s bone dry. You can either stick your finger in the pot or use a moisture meter to check the soil below the surface. When you plant it in a deep pot, you can do this with a stick or chopstick. If it feels even a little bit moist, wait a few days and check it again. Most people will need to water Living stone about every two weeks in summer and once a month in winter, but there are several factors that can change the frequency. The section below lists some considerations that can help you to determine how often to water.
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What should I consider when watering my Living stone?
There are several environmental conditions that will affect how your Living stone needs to be watered, including the container size, soil type, temperature, and humidity. First off, the container and soil you use will determine how often to water and how much water to use each time. Be sure you use a container with plenty of drainage holes in the bottom so extra water can escape the pot. A small container has less room for soil, meaning it won’t hold as much moisture, while a larger pot will stay wet longer and need to be watered less often. It’s important not to keep your Living stone in an oversized pot as this can easily lead to overwatering. When repotting, move to just one size larger than the current container. A shallow container works better than a deep one, since Living stone has shallow root systems. Living stone will need to be watered less often in winter and more often in the active growing season in spring and autumn. During the winter, growth slows down considerably and the plant isn’t using much energy or water. There is less water lost to evaporation in cooler winter air, meaning that soil stays wet for much longer than it would in the summer. This also applies to the general climate around your home. If you live in a humid location with a lot of rain, you will need to water less often than if you live in a dry, arid climate. Remember that conditions at the same geographic location can vary significantly with the season and the use of indoor heating and air conditioning. Outdoor Planting If Living stone is planted in the ground, after establishing a root system, it shouldn’t need supplemental water beyond what it receives through precipitation and dew. But if there is a long dry period, you may want to water occasionally. In other areas where Living stone can only be grown in a container, this plant can be moved outside in the spring and summer when the temperature is proper and then brought back inside when temperatures start to drop. A potted Living stone kept outside usually needs more water than the same plant kept indoors, because there is a lot more sun exposure even on a shaded porch.
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How to water Living stone?
The best way to water Living stone is to soak it thoroughly and then allow it to dry out before it gets watered again. Since this plant is somewhat drought tolerant, you can let it get quite dry before watering again. It is always better to give this type of plant too little water over too much. When you water, make sure the soil gets thoroughly soaked throughout the whole pot. Don’t pour the water in just one spot, but rather try to go around the whole rim of the planter to be sure that it has a chance to get wet on all sides of the plant. The correct amount of water will depend on the size of your container and how much water your soil absorbs. Give your Living stone enough water that it drains out from the drainage holes and then (ideally) leave the drained water in the saucer for about 20-30 minutes to absorb into dry pockets of soil. After that, discard any excess water that’s still in the saucer to avoid the soil getting waterlogged. Bottom-watering is also an excellent method for Living stone, as you can be sure that the soil gets thoroughly moistened. This process involves placing the pot into a saucer of water and allowing the soil to absorb moisture through the drainage holes. You will know that the soil has absorbed enough water when the top layer is moist. This takes a bit more time than top-watering, but is almost foolproof in getting an even distribution of water throughout the pot. The original habitat of Living stone is relatively dry with little rain, but when it rains, the soil will be thoroughly moistened. So you can mimic this situation by bottom-watering your plant when the soil is totally dry. Deep soil bathing is better than frequent light watering for Living stone.
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Key Facts About Living stone

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Attributes of Living stone

Lifespan
Perennial
Planting Time
Winter, Early spring
Bloom Time
Fall, Winter
Plant Height
5 cm
Spread
4 cm
Flower Size
1 cm to 2 cm
Flower Color
Yellow
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃

Symbolism

Tenacity, and gem of life

Usages

Garden Use
Living stone can be displayed on tables, windowsills and desks.

Trivia and Interesting Facts

The first person in history to find this plant picked it up from the dirty ground. It looked like a strange pebble, but it was actually a plant. It looked very similar to the rocks beside it, but it was growing.

Scientific Classification of Living stone

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Common Pests & Diseases About Living stone

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Common issues for Living stone based on 10 million real cases
Soil mold
Soil mold Soil mold
Soil mold
Moist environments may encourage the growth of mushrooms or other fungi at the soil's surface that do not affect the health of the plant.
Solutions: Measures to take to remove soil mold: Physically remove mold/mushrooms - remove and dispose of mushrooms. To remove mold, scrape 1/8” of soil from the surface. Add a layer of sand or gravel - adding 1/4” of sand or gravel on top of the soil surface will discourage new fungal growth Sprinkle an antifungal treatment around the plants - this doesn't have to be a commercial fungicide, as many growers swear by all-natural remedies like cinnamon and baking soda Some types of mold contain toxins that can be harmful to humans or irritate those with allergies or asthma. Wear a dust mask while performing these tasks.
Fruit Spot
Fruit Spot Fruit Spot
Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Solutions: Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot. Improve air circulation and drainage Fertilize as needed Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.
Fruit rot
Fruit rot Fruit rot
Fruit rot
Soft rot in the fruit can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: Prune out and destroy infected spurs and branches. Correct spacing between plants to reduce wind-born infection. Chemical fungicides may become necessary. Bird deterrents and biological or chemical treatments for insects will reduce fruit damage, making it harder for fungal infections to take hold.
Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
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Soil mold
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Soil mold
Moist environments may encourage the growth of mushrooms or other fungi at the soil's surface that do not affect the health of the plant.
Overview
Overview
If there is soil mold around the plants, this isn't necessarily a reason to panic. Mold can occur for several reasons. Most of the time, it's harmless. The microorganisms that exist in mold are, in fact, necessary for healthy plant life. That said, it can be unsightly and in some cases, harmful to certain plants. It's important to understand why mold might be forming. It is only after the potential causes have been identified that steps can be taken to stop mold from spreading or appearing in the future.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The most obvious sign of soil mold is, of course, mold observed on the surface of the soil. This can be fuzzy and white, yellow, or gray in color. Other symptoms may include:
  • Mushrooms
  • Wilted plants
  • Plants are stunted in growth
  • Soil has an odd "off" smell
  • Premature leaf drop or flower/blossom/fruit rot
  • Excess water is leaking from drainage holes
While soil mold doesn't always harm the growth of a plant, it can indicate the presence of a larger problem that needs to be addressed (and these problems can often harm plants).
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are several causes for soil mold. Understanding why mold is growing should be the first step in deciding on the best course of action.
Some potential causes include:
  • Overwatering - fungi consume excess water, so the presence of mold indicates that there is water that the plants aren't readily using
  • Poor drainage - this can be caused by dense, compacted soil, a lack of drainage holes, or an inadequate pot size
  • Poor air circulation - this is common in indoor-grown plants, especially in the winter when windows are closed
  • Contaminated soil - while all soil contains microorganisms, soil can contain fungal spores that lead to mold growth
  • Decomposing leaves on the soil surface feed the mold
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Fruit Spot
plant poor
Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Overview
Overview
If there are brown or black spots on the unripened fruits of plants, there is a good chance that fruit Spot could be to blame. This is an informal term used to describe several types of diseases that all cause these same symptoms: unattractive spots on fruits and vegetables.
There are a few different culprits behind fruit Spot, including bacterial spot, bacterial speck, and other related diseases (like early blight). Here are some symptoms and potential solutions to consider.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The symptoms of fruit Spot vary depending on which type of plant is affected as well as by which specific pathogen is to blame. Just about every type of plant can be affected by fruit Spot, including tomatoes, pears, plums, onions, strawberries, celery, peaches, and more.
Here are some examples of potential symptoms:
Small Fruit Spot
Small spots are most commonly associated with bacterial speck.
  • Spots may appear on fruits as well as leaves and other aboveground areas of the plant
  • Small black specks appear on infected fruits (spots are less than 1/16” in diameter)
  • Spots are raised with distinct margins, developing into sunken pits as the fruit matures
  • Fruit tissue near the spot stays green longer than the rest of the fruit
  • Spots are dark brown to black in color, with nearby spots often growing together
Large Fruit Spot
Large spots are often seen on plants suffering from bacterial spot, early blight, and related diseases.
  • Spots are large, sometimes larger than 1.3 cm
  • Some spots may look like targets with a brown to greyish coloration
  • Older spots are black and raised with lobed borders
  • Spots are superficial only, not penetrating into the seed cavity
  • Spots may turn into sunken pits, turning into craters as they get older
  • The skin of the fruit can be cracked and produce a water-soaked border
  • Some spots may ooze a gelatinous substance
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are a few culprits behind the fruit Spot. These depend on the pathogen as well as the type of plant. Bacterial speck and bacterial spot are both common diseases that can affect tomatoes, ground cherries, and other plants.
Bacterial speck is caused by Pseudomonas syringae. First discovered in the United States in 1933, it is most common in tomatoes and nearby weeds but can affect other kinds of plants and their fruits, too. It is more prevalent in low temperatures (less than 24 ℃) and high moisture.
Bacterial spot is caused by Xanthomonas campestris pv. Vesicatoria. First discovered in Texas in 1912, this disease is more common in warm weather and conditions of high moisture.
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Fruit rot
plant poor
Fruit rot
Soft rot in the fruit can have a variety of causes.
Overview
Overview
Fruit rot is quite common, and there are a large number of factors that can lie at the heart of this problem. Symptoms also vary from fruit to fruit and from cause to cause, but in general, one can recognize fruit that is rotten or starting to rot. Many of the most common causes of rotting are related to fungal diseases, which enter the fruit through wounds such as those caused by birds. The disease then spreads outwards from the wound. From there it can spread to neighboring fruit or be carried by the wind to plants further away.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Below are some of the broader symptoms to look out for in cases of fruit rot. If this occurs on just one or two fruit it may just be as the result of a small-scale infection, but if it is widespread then a fungal infection problem is likely.
  1. Small brown spots appear on the fruit.
  2. Brown spots expand, normally in concentric circles and the center starts to go soft and mushy.
  3. Mushiness spreads and grey or brown powdery pustules start to coat the fruit.
  4. Some fruit will drop but others may remain and gradually turn mummified.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Fruit rot is often caused by fungal infection. These fungi overwinter on fallen fruit, and then the spores are spread by the wind the following spring. Birds and sap-sucking insects can also act as vectors. Entry to new fruit is made considerably easier if there are wounds of any kind through which the spores can penetrate the skin. The healthier the tree or plant, the better able it is to defend itself from infection.
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Leaf rot
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
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More Info on Living Stone Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
Living stone has an affinity for intense light exposure which aids its growth. In its original environment, it thrives under unhindered solar illumination. Though it can tolerate conditions where light intensity is comparatively less, too much or too little exposure can hinder its development and health.
Best Sunlight Practices
Transplant
1-2 inches
The perfect moment to transplant living stone comes during the late S2-S3 phases, typically referred to as the latter end of their growing period, as they need less water and can adapt better. Consider a sunny location with good drainage to ensure living stone transplant success. A friendly tip: Always handle living stone with immense care during the process, their delicate nature requires it.
Transplant Techniques
Temperature
5 - 43 ℃
Living stone is native to conditions that regularly reach temperatures of 68 to 100 °F (20 to 38 ℃), typically found in temperate regions. The plant thrives in warm conditions and should be monitored when temperatures drop below 68 °F (20 ℃). Regular adjustments may be necessary during colder seasons.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Feng shui direction
Southwest
The living stone aligns harmoniously with Southwest-facing directions. As the symbol of sturdiness, owing to its resilient adaptation to harsh conditions, living stone resonates well with the Earth element of the Southwest. Yet, the balance of chi energy leverages on specific placements, underlining Feng Shui's intricate complexity.
Fengshui Details
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Plants Related to Living stone

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Arkansas oak
Arkansas oak
Quercus arkansana is a deciduous tree up to 15 m tall. The bark is black. The leaves are sometimes unlobed and sometimes with 2 or 3 shallow lobes.
Queen anthurium
Queen anthurium
Queen anthurium, or Anthurium warocqueanum, is a rare species of anthurium. It features long, dark green, velvety leaves. This epiphyte grows on other plants. It is native to Columbia, and in cooler areas is grown in greenhouses or as a houseplant.
False sunflower
False sunflower
False sunflower (Heliopsis helianthoides) differs from true sunflowers because not only can its disk florets produce seeds, but also its ray florets. With true sunflowers, only the disk florets are seed-producing. You'll find this pretty wildflower throughout much of the North American continent. They look gorgeous in a cut flower arrangement.
Bower vine
Bower vine
Bower vine (Pandorea jasminoides) is a flowering woody climbing vine species that cannot tolerate low temperatures. The bower vine is native to the humid tropical forests of Australia. This species is cultivated as an ornamental plant, but, due to its inability to tolerate low temperatures, must be grown in a greenhouse or conservatory when the plant is young. Older plants can be placed outside during warm months.
Common columbine
Common columbine
The common columbine is a tall, flowering plant, typically with a long stem and light purple flowers. The Latin specific name for the plant, "vulgaris," means "common," and it comes from the fact that the plants spread easily and grow in many places around Europe. Ancient Romans considered the common columbine to be sacred for the goddess, Venus.
White fig
White fig
Don't be mistaken by the innocuous appearance of the white fig (Ficus virens), because it's a killer. It belongs to the family of strangler figs which are able to germinate on another tree and then grow around and eventually kill it. Often the tree displays long dangling roots that hang impressively from branches.
Cape jasmine
Cape jasmine
Gardenia jasminoides is an evergreen shrub with unique, glossy evergreen leaves and stunning flowers. The sophisticated, matte white flowers are often used in bouquets. The exceptional beauty of this ornamental plant has made it a popular and highly appreciated plant amongst gardeners and horticulturalists.
Golden pothos
Golden pothos
The golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular houseplant that is commonly seen in Australia, Asia, and the West Indies. It goes by many nicknames, including "devil's ivy", because it is so hard to kill and can even grow in low light conditions. Golden pothos has poisonous sap, so it should be kept away from pets and children.
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Living stone
Living stone
Living stone
Living stone
Lithops pseudotruncatella subsp. archerae
The living stone resembles small, colorful stones. With its flowers emerging from the narrow gaps between two leaves, many people also refer to it as the "living stone Flower". Distinguishing native living stone from gravel scattered on the ground can be a real challenge to many people, but this can be overcome by growing it in a container. With its unique shape and high ornamental value, the living stone has become a very popular potted plant in recent years.
Planting Time
Planting Time
Winter, Early spring
question

Questions About Living stone

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Watering Watering Watering
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What should I do if I water my Living stone too much or too little?
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How often should I water my Living stone?
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What should I consider when watering my Living stone?
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How to water Living stone?
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Key Facts About Living stone

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Attributes of Living stone

Lifespan
Perennial
Planting Time
Winter, Early spring
Bloom Time
Fall, Winter
Plant Height
5 cm
Spread
4 cm
Flower Size
1 cm to 2 cm
Flower Color
Yellow
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃
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Symbolism

Tenacity, and gem of life

Usages

Garden Use
Living stone can be displayed on tables, windowsills and desks.

Trivia and Interesting Facts

The first person in history to find this plant picked it up from the dirty ground. It looked like a strange pebble, but it was actually a plant. It looked very similar to the rocks beside it, but it was growing.

Scientific Classification of Living stone

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Common Pests & Diseases About Living stone

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Common issues for Living stone based on 10 million real cases
Soil mold
Soil mold Soil mold Soil mold
Moist environments may encourage the growth of mushrooms or other fungi at the soil's surface that do not affect the health of the plant.
Solutions: Measures to take to remove soil mold: Physically remove mold/mushrooms - remove and dispose of mushrooms. To remove mold, scrape 1/8” of soil from the surface. Add a layer of sand or gravel - adding 1/4” of sand or gravel on top of the soil surface will discourage new fungal growth Sprinkle an antifungal treatment around the plants - this doesn't have to be a commercial fungicide, as many growers swear by all-natural remedies like cinnamon and baking soda Some types of mold contain toxins that can be harmful to humans or irritate those with allergies or asthma. Wear a dust mask while performing these tasks.
Learn More About the Soil mold more
Fruit Spot
Fruit Spot Fruit Spot Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Solutions: Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot. Improve air circulation and drainage Fertilize as needed Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.
Learn More About the Fruit Spot more
Fruit rot
Fruit rot Fruit rot Fruit rot
Soft rot in the fruit can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: Prune out and destroy infected spurs and branches. Correct spacing between plants to reduce wind-born infection. Chemical fungicides may become necessary. Bird deterrents and biological or chemical treatments for insects will reduce fruit damage, making it harder for fungal infections to take hold.
Learn More About the Fruit rot more
Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Learn More About the Leaf rot more
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Soil mold
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Soil mold
Moist environments may encourage the growth of mushrooms or other fungi at the soil's surface that do not affect the health of the plant.
Overview
Overview
If there is soil mold around the plants, this isn't necessarily a reason to panic. Mold can occur for several reasons. Most of the time, it's harmless. The microorganisms that exist in mold are, in fact, necessary for healthy plant life. That said, it can be unsightly and in some cases, harmful to certain plants. It's important to understand why mold might be forming. It is only after the potential causes have been identified that steps can be taken to stop mold from spreading or appearing in the future.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The most obvious sign of soil mold is, of course, mold observed on the surface of the soil. This can be fuzzy and white, yellow, or gray in color. Other symptoms may include:
  • Mushrooms
  • Wilted plants
  • Plants are stunted in growth
  • Soil has an odd "off" smell
  • Premature leaf drop or flower/blossom/fruit rot
  • Excess water is leaking from drainage holes
While soil mold doesn't always harm the growth of a plant, it can indicate the presence of a larger problem that needs to be addressed (and these problems can often harm plants).
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are several causes for soil mold. Understanding why mold is growing should be the first step in deciding on the best course of action.
Some potential causes include:
  • Overwatering - fungi consume excess water, so the presence of mold indicates that there is water that the plants aren't readily using
  • Poor drainage - this can be caused by dense, compacted soil, a lack of drainage holes, or an inadequate pot size
  • Poor air circulation - this is common in indoor-grown plants, especially in the winter when windows are closed
  • Contaminated soil - while all soil contains microorganisms, soil can contain fungal spores that lead to mold growth
  • Decomposing leaves on the soil surface feed the mold
Solutions
Solutions
Measures to take to remove soil mold:
  • Physically remove mold/mushrooms - remove and dispose of mushrooms. To remove mold, scrape 1/8” of soil from the surface.
  • Add a layer of sand or gravel - adding 1/4” of sand or gravel on top of the soil surface will discourage new fungal growth
  • Sprinkle an antifungal treatment around the plants - this doesn't have to be a commercial fungicide, as many growers swear by all-natural remedies like cinnamon and baking soda
Some types of mold contain toxins that can be harmful to humans or irritate those with allergies or asthma. Wear a dust mask while performing these tasks.
Prevention
Prevention
Follow these practices to prevent soil mold from forming.
  • Limit moisture - avoid keeping soil damp, and allow it to dry out between waterings. Watering from the bottom of pots with drainage can allow the surface soil to stay dry.
  • Provide aeration - increase airflow around the plants using a fan or wind.
  • Repot - if the container is too small or lacks proper drainage, transplant the plant into a new, better-draining container.
  • Apply a layer of sand - apply 6 mm of sand on top of soil.
  • Use potting mix - when planting, only use potting mix instead of regular soil, as this is specially formulated for the proper moisture retention.
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Fruit Spot
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Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Overview
Overview
If there are brown or black spots on the unripened fruits of plants, there is a good chance that fruit Spot could be to blame. This is an informal term used to describe several types of diseases that all cause these same symptoms: unattractive spots on fruits and vegetables.
There are a few different culprits behind fruit Spot, including bacterial spot, bacterial speck, and other related diseases (like early blight). Here are some symptoms and potential solutions to consider.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The symptoms of fruit Spot vary depending on which type of plant is affected as well as by which specific pathogen is to blame. Just about every type of plant can be affected by fruit Spot, including tomatoes, pears, plums, onions, strawberries, celery, peaches, and more.
Here are some examples of potential symptoms:
Small Fruit Spot
Small spots are most commonly associated with bacterial speck.
  • Spots may appear on fruits as well as leaves and other aboveground areas of the plant
  • Small black specks appear on infected fruits (spots are less than 1/16” in diameter)
  • Spots are raised with distinct margins, developing into sunken pits as the fruit matures
  • Fruit tissue near the spot stays green longer than the rest of the fruit
  • Spots are dark brown to black in color, with nearby spots often growing together
Large Fruit Spot
Large spots are often seen on plants suffering from bacterial spot, early blight, and related diseases.
  • Spots are large, sometimes larger than 1.3 cm
  • Some spots may look like targets with a brown to greyish coloration
  • Older spots are black and raised with lobed borders
  • Spots are superficial only, not penetrating into the seed cavity
  • Spots may turn into sunken pits, turning into craters as they get older
  • The skin of the fruit can be cracked and produce a water-soaked border
  • Some spots may ooze a gelatinous substance
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are a few culprits behind the fruit Spot. These depend on the pathogen as well as the type of plant. Bacterial speck and bacterial spot are both common diseases that can affect tomatoes, ground cherries, and other plants.
Bacterial speck is caused by Pseudomonas syringae. First discovered in the United States in 1933, it is most common in tomatoes and nearby weeds but can affect other kinds of plants and their fruits, too. It is more prevalent in low temperatures (less than 24 ℃) and high moisture.
Bacterial spot is caused by Xanthomonas campestris pv. Vesicatoria. First discovered in Texas in 1912, this disease is more common in warm weather and conditions of high moisture.
Solutions
Solutions
  • Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot.
  • Improve air circulation and drainage
  • Fertilize as needed
  • Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.
Prevention
Prevention
There are several ways to prevent both types of fruit Spot from affecting yields and harvests:
  • Rotate crops - do not plant the same kind of plant in the same spot each year, instead switching out locations every two to three years
  • Use disease-free seeds and transplants - using a hot water treatment to sterilize seeds before planting can also be effective
  • Irrigate early in the day to give plants time to dry off before nightfall
  • Avoid working around plants when they are wet
  • Control weeds
  • Remove debris or plow it under at the end of the growing season
  • Fertilize with higher amounts of nitrogen and use less calcium
  • Plant resistant cultivars when available
  • Do not clip plants when transplanting
  • Dispose of affected plant parts immediately (do not compost)
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Fruit rot
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Fruit rot
Soft rot in the fruit can have a variety of causes.
Overview
Overview
Fruit rot is quite common, and there are a large number of factors that can lie at the heart of this problem. Symptoms also vary from fruit to fruit and from cause to cause, but in general, one can recognize fruit that is rotten or starting to rot. Many of the most common causes of rotting are related to fungal diseases, which enter the fruit through wounds such as those caused by birds. The disease then spreads outwards from the wound. From there it can spread to neighboring fruit or be carried by the wind to plants further away.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Below are some of the broader symptoms to look out for in cases of fruit rot. If this occurs on just one or two fruit it may just be as the result of a small-scale infection, but if it is widespread then a fungal infection problem is likely.
  1. Small brown spots appear on the fruit.
  2. Brown spots expand, normally in concentric circles and the center starts to go soft and mushy.
  3. Mushiness spreads and grey or brown powdery pustules start to coat the fruit.
  4. Some fruit will drop but others may remain and gradually turn mummified.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Fruit rot is often caused by fungal infection. These fungi overwinter on fallen fruit, and then the spores are spread by the wind the following spring. Birds and sap-sucking insects can also act as vectors. Entry to new fruit is made considerably easier if there are wounds of any kind through which the spores can penetrate the skin. The healthier the tree or plant, the better able it is to defend itself from infection.
Solutions
Solutions
  1. Prune out and destroy infected spurs and branches.
  2. Correct spacing between plants to reduce wind-born infection.
  3. Chemical fungicides may become necessary.
  4. Bird deterrents and biological or chemical treatments for insects will reduce fruit damage, making it harder for fungal infections to take hold.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent pests and disease infection:
  1. Pick fruits on time. Remove fruit once ripe to prevent opportunities for pests and fungal infections to take hold.
  2. Rake and clean debris. Remove and bury surrounding plant material that may host diseases.
  3. Prune branches and thin fruit. Remove ripening fruits so they do not touch one another and prune branches to improve air circulation (reducing the wet conditions in which fungi thrive).
  4. Consider preventative use of fungicide prior to fruit forming.
To prevent nutrient deficiency that weakens the plant:
  1. Add mulch. Adding a layer of mulch on top of the soil early in the season will keep moisture even.
  2. Use organic fertilizer. Plants given ammonia-based fertilizer cannot uptake calcium efficiently. Use compost, fish emulsion, liquid kelp or other organic fertilizer.
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Leaf rot
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
  2. Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
  3. Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
  4. Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
  5. Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
  6. Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
  7. Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
  8. Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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More Info on Living Stone Growth and Care

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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Living stone has an affinity for intense light exposure which aids its growth. In its original environment, it thrives under unhindered solar illumination. Though it can tolerate conditions where light intensity is comparatively less, too much or too little exposure can hinder its development and health.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Living stone is a beloved choice for indoor gardening, and they require strong light to thrive. However, when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting, they may develop symptoms of light deficiency.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Living stone may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Living stone enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Living stone require strong light to thrive, and some are remarkably resilient to sun exposure, rarely suffering from sunburn.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Living stone is native to conditions that regularly reach temperatures of 68 to 100 °F (20 to 38 ℃), typically found in temperate regions. The plant thrives in warm conditions and should be monitored when temperatures drop below 68 °F (20 ℃). Regular adjustments may be necessary during colder seasons.
Regional wintering strategies
Living stone is a heat-loving plant that gradually stops growing and enters a dormant state during the winter. When the outdoor temperature drops below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it should be moved indoors for cultivation. Choose a location near a south-facing window to provide as much sunlight as possible. If there is insufficient natural light, supplemental lighting can be used. When the temperature falls below {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}, the plant's growth slows down, and watering should be reduced or stopped to prevent root rot. For Living stone grown outdoors, watering should be completely halted during low temperatures. If feasible, you can set up a temporary greenhouse for insulation or use materials such as plastic film or fabric to wrap the plant during cold temperatures.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in Living stone
Living stone thrives in high temperatures and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It grows best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the plant may become weak, wilt, and be prone to root rot. In cases of mild frost damage, there may not be any initial symptoms, but after a week, the plant will gradually wither.
Solutions
Trim off the frostbitten areas, paying attention to whether the roots have rotted. If the roots have rotted, they need to be cut off, and the plant can be propagated through cuttings. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment and place the plant near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. If there is insufficient light, you can use supplemental lighting.
Symptoms of High Temperature in Living stone
During summer, Living stone should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant's growth will cease, it will experience water loss, wilting, and becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Remove the sunburned and rotten parts. Shield the plant from afternoon sunlight until it recovers and starts growing again. For plants with root rot, stop watering until new roots begin to emerge.
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