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Fringe flower
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Fringe flower
Fringe flower
Fringe flower
Fringe flower
Add to My Garden
Fringe flower
Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum
Also known as: Redleaf loropetalum
This evergreen shrub is used in outdoor landscaping. It flowers in early spring. Some varieties of fringe flower grow green leaves and white flowers. A more popular maroon-leafed variety hit the US market in the 1980s, which flowers in eye-catching pinks or reds.
Hardiness Zones
7 to 10
Hardiness Zones
care guide

Care Guide for Fringe flower

The Fringe flower requires regular watering when the weather is hot and during the first two years after planting. The soil may be allowed to dry out in between waterings. Once this plant is established, occasional watering will be sufficient. Don't allow the roots to sit in stagnant water.
Fertilization
Fertilization
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The fringe flower should be fertilized with a well-balanced, slow-release granular fertilizer to produce optimal blooms. Diluted fertilizer should be applied to the root area at a few evenly spaced intervals during the year. A balanced 10-10-10 nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium formulated fertilizer is ideal for this species.
Trim the diseased, withered leaves once a month.
Potting Suggestions
Potting Suggestions
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Needs excellent drainage in pots.
Sunlight
Sunlight
See Details
Full sun, Partial sun, Full shade
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Fringe flower
Water
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
7 to 10
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
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Fringe flower
Water
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Every 1-2 weeks
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
7 to 10
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
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Fringe flower
Water
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Every 1-2 weeks
Hardiness Zones
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7 to 10
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
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Questions About Fringe flower

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Fringe flower?
Your Fringe flower will not be too picky about how you choose to water it. As such, you can use just about any common watering tool to moisten this plant’s soil. Watering cans, hoses, and even cups will work just fine when it is time to water your Fringe flower. Regardless of which watering tool you use, you should typically apply the water directly to the soil. In doing so, you should ensure that you moisten all soil areas equally to give all parts of the root system the water it needs. It can help to use filtered water, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to plants. It is also beneficial to use water that is at or slightly above room temperature, as colder or hotter water can be somewhat shocking to the Fringe flower. However, the Fringe flower usually responds well to any kind of water you give it.
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What should I do if I water my Fringe flower too much or too little?
For outdoor plants, especially newly planted plants or plant seedlings, they can be prone to lack of watering. Remember that you need to keep watering enough for a few months when the tree is small or just planted. This is because once the roots are established, Fringe flower can rely on rain most of the time.
When your Fringe flower is planted in pots, overwatering is often more likely to.When you accidentally overwater your Fringe flower, you should be prepared to remedy the situation immediately. First, you should stop watering your plant right away to minimize the effect of your overwatering. After, you should consider removing your Fringe flower from its pot to inspect its roots. If you find that none of the roots have developed root rot, it may be permissible to return your plant to its container. If you do discover signs of root rot, then you should trim away any roots that have been affected. You may also want to apply a fungicide to prevent further damage. Lastly, you should repot your Fringe flower in soil that is well-draining. In the case of an underwatered Fringe flower, simply water this plant more frequently.
Underwatering is often an easy fix. If you underwater, the plant's leaves will tend to droop and dry out and fall off, and the leaves will quickly return to fullness after sufficient watering. Please correct your watering frequency as soon as underwatering occurs.
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How often should I water my Fringe flower?
Most plants that grow naturally outdoors can be allowed to grow normally with rainfall. If your area lacks rainfall, consider giving your plants adequate watering every 2 weeks during the spring and fall. More frequent watering is needed in summer. In winter, when growth becomes slower and plants need less water, water more sparingly. Throughout the winter, you may not give it additional watering at all. If your Fringe flower is young or newly planted, then you should water more frequently to help it establish, and mature and grow up to have more adaptable and drought tolerant plants.
For potted plants, there are two main ways that you can determine how often to water your Fringe flower. The first way is to set a predetermined watering schedule. If you choose this route, you should plan to water this plant about once every week or once every other week. However, this approach may not always work as it does not consider the unique conditions of the growing environment for your Fringe flower .
Your watering frequency can also change depending on the season. For instance, a predetermined watering schedule will likely not suffice during summer when this plant's water needs are highest. An alternative route is to set your watering frequency based on soil moisture. Typically, it is best to wait until the first two to four inches of soil, usually ⅓ to ½ depth of the pots, have dried out entirely before you give more water.
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How much water does my Fringe flower need?
When it comes time to water your Fringe flower, you may be surprised to find that this plant does not always need a high volume of water. Instead, if only a few inches of soil have dried since your last watering, you can support healthy growth in the Fringe flower by giving it about five to ten ounces of water every time you water. You can also decide your water volume based on soil moisture. As mentioned above, you should note how many inches of soil have dried out between waterings. A surefire way to make sure your Fringe flower gets the moisture it needs is to supply enough water to moisten all the soil layers that became dry since the last time you watered. If more than half of the soil has become dry, you should consider giving more water than usual. In those cases, continue adding water until you see excess water draining from your pot’s drainage holes.
If your Fringe flower is planted in an area that gets plenty of rain outdoors, it may not need additional watering. When the Fringe flower is young or just getting established, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As it continues to grow and establish, it can survive entirely on rainwater and only when the weather is hot and there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving your Fringe flower a full watering to prevent them from suffering stress.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Fringe flower enough?
Overwatering is a far more common problem for the Fringe flower, and there are several signs you should look for when this occurs. Generally, an overwatered Fringe flower will have yellowing leaves and may even drop some leaves. Also, overwatering can cause the overall structure of your plant to shrivel and may also promote root rot. On the other hand, an underwatered Fringe flower will also begin to wilt. It may also display leaves that are brown or brittle to the touch. Whether you see signs of overwatering or underwatering, you should be prepared to intervene and restore the health of your Fringe flower.
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How can I water my Fringe flower at different growth stages?
When the Fringe flower is very young, such as when it is in a seedling stage, you will need to give it more water than you would if it were at a mature age. During the early stages of this plant’s life, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist to encourage root development. The same is true for any Fringe flower that you have transplanted to a new growing location. Also, the Fringe flower can develop showy flowers and fruits when you give them the correct care. If your Fringe flower is in a flowering or fruiting phase, you will likely need to give a bit more water than you usually would to support these plant structures.
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How can I water my Fringe flower through the seasons?
The seasonal changes will affect how often you water your Fringe flower. Mainly, during the hottest summer months, you will likely need to increase how much you water this plant, especially if it grows in an area that receives ample sunlight. Strong summer sunlight can cause soil to dry out much faster than usual, meaning that you’ll need to water more frequently. By contrast, your Fringe flower will need much less water during the winter, as it will not be in an active growing phase. During winter, you can get by with watering once every 2 to 3 weeks or sometimes not at all. For those growing this plant indoors, you should be somewhat wary of appliances such as air conditioners, which can cause your plant to dry out more quickly, which also calls for more frequent watering.
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What's the difference between watering my Fringe flower indoors vs outdoors?
In some cases, your Fringe flower may not need any supplemental watering when it grows outside and will survive on rainwater alone. However, if you live in an area of little to no rain, you should water this plant about every two weeks. If you belong to the group of people who live out of this plant's natural hardiness zone, you should grow it indoors. In an indoor setting, you should monitor your plant's soil as it can dry out more quickly when it is in a container or when it is exposed to HVAC units such as air conditioners. Those drying factors will lead you to water this plant a bit more often than if you grew it outdoors.
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pests

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Fringe flower based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Sooty mold
Sooty mold Sooty mold
Sooty mold
Sooty mildew causes black mold on the leaves that can be wiped away.
Solutions: The first step in treating the plant is to eradicate the insects that secrete the honeydew substance. Visually inspect the plant for insects, making sure to look on the underside of leaves and in the crotch of branches. Insects that may be present are as follows: Aphids are minuscule pear-shaped bugs. Most are green in color. Whiteflies are pale in color, almost translucent, and are covered with a powdery whitish wax. They may look like tiny white moths. Scale appears as small brown bumps attached to the leaves and branches, with either a soft or armored coating. Mealybugs are small white insects that look like cotton wool. To treat insect infestation, follow these steps: Handpick insects off if the infestation is minor. Wipe plant leaves gently with a clean, damp cloth or spray with a jet of water from the hose to dislodge them. Treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil for serious infestations. The fatty acids in insecticidal soaps suffocate small-bodied insects. Neem oil is a common botanical pesticide that blocks the hormones that transition insects from larva to pupa to adult, halting the insect’s life cycle. Once the insect infestation has been treated, remove as much mold from the leaves as possible. The remaining mold will dry out due to the lack of honeydew and will fall off the plant. Wash with insecticidal or very dilute dishwashing soap. Apply a couple of hours before rain is predicted, if possible. The soap will help soften the soot, making it easier to rinse it away. Spray plants with a steady stream of water.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Leaf scorch
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Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Overview
Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
  • Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
  • Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms.
  • Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves.
  • Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement.
  • Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation.
  • If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach.
  • If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry.
  • Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections.
  • If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Physiological leaf scorch is best avoided by making sure your plants have a healthy, functional root system and access to enough water. Water regularly, especially on the mornings of excessively hot, sunny days. Deep, infrequent irrigation is better than shallow, frequent irrigation.
  • Have your soil tested and apply the proper nutrients. Be sure to not over-apply fertilizers.
  • Make sure your plants’ roots have room to expand. Avoid compacted soil as well and avoid paving areas above the root zone. Do not till or disturb the soil where plant roots are growing.
  • Plant new trees and shrubs in the fall, so that they have the maximum amount of time to become established before the environmental stresses of the next summer.
  • Remove any dead or dying plant tissue that may harbor secondary infections.
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Sap-sucking insects
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Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
  1. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
  2. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
  3. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
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Sooty mold
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Sooty mold
Sooty mildew causes black mold on the leaves that can be wiped away.
Overview
Overview
Sooty mold is a common disease of many plant varieties, especially those that are likely to be attacked by aphids and scale insects. While this disease can be unsightly and will reduce the plant's ability to photosynthesize, it generally won't kill an affected plant. It is treatable by fixing the underlying cause.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Plants are covered with a black soot-like substance. Sooty mold can cover leaves, stems, flower buds, and other parts of the plant.
Sometimes, there are also signs of small white casts on the mold, which are the result of the insects shedding.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Sooty mold is a secondary disease that is a result of a pest problem. Sap-sucking insects such as aphids, mealybugs, whiteflies, and scale insects excrete a honeydew-like substance that sticks to the surface of the plant. When various parts of the plant are covered in this honeydew, the sooty mold fungal spores land on the plant and start to reproduce. This causes the black mold that can be seen on the plant. It's somewhat similar to the black mold that infects damp areas in the house.
Sooty mold does not feed on the plants themselves but rather on the honeydew secreted by insect pests.
Solutions
Solutions
The first step in treating the plant is to eradicate the insects that secrete the honeydew substance. Visually inspect the plant for insects, making sure to look on the underside of leaves and in the crotch of branches. Insects that may be present are as follows:
  • Aphids are minuscule pear-shaped bugs. Most are green in color.
  • Whiteflies are pale in color, almost translucent, and are covered with a powdery whitish wax. They may look like tiny white moths.
  • Scale appears as small brown bumps attached to the leaves and branches, with either a soft or armored coating.
  • Mealybugs are small white insects that look like cotton wool.
To treat insect infestation, follow these steps:
  1. Handpick insects off if the infestation is minor. Wipe plant leaves gently with a clean, damp cloth or spray with a jet of water from the hose to dislodge them.
  2. Treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil for serious infestations. The fatty acids in insecticidal soaps suffocate small-bodied insects. Neem oil is a common botanical pesticide that blocks the hormones that transition insects from larva to pupa to adult, halting the insect’s life cycle.
Once the insect infestation has been treated, remove as much mold from the leaves as possible. The remaining mold will dry out due to the lack of honeydew and will fall off the plant.
  1. Wash with insecticidal or very dilute dishwashing soap. Apply a couple of hours before rain is predicted, if possible. The soap will help soften the soot, making it easier to rinse it away.
  2. Spray plants with a steady stream of water.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. Keep plants properly watered. Drought stress will increase susceptibility to insect problems.
  2. Fertilize plants per the recommended schedule on the product label to strengthen natural plant defenses.
  3. Control insects that produce honeydew. Grow plants that attract beneficial insects or grow plants that naturally deter sap-suckers.
  4. Control ants on tree stems with sticky tape. Ants like honeydew and will protect honeydew-producing insects from predators like ladybugs.
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distribution

Distribution Map

Habitat

Limestone, Stream banks, Hilly slopes, Roadsides
distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
habit
plant_info

More Info

Plant Type
Plant Type
Shrub
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Early summer
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Red

Name story

Fringe flower
Its ruby-colored leaves make it stand out fresh and bright when compared to other plants. The color of the leaves will remain the same throughout the same. During spring, its branches will blossom attractive neon-pink flowers. As each petal is slender and curved like a girl's fringe hanging smoothly on a branch, it is then called fringe flower.

Symbolism

Fortune, happiness, a lifetime companion

Usages

Artistic Value
Chinese fringe flower 'fire dance' is a key protected plant.
Garden Use
Fringe flower is an evergreen shrub commonly found in gardens in warm climates. It is prized for its richly colored foliage and unique-looking, delicately scented flowers. Its bushy appearance makes it suitable for borders and screening. Fringe flower is essential in Japanese-style gardens. Plant with Black Mondo or Kangaroo Paw to make a strong color contrast.
other_plant

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Chia
Chia
Chia (Salvia columbariae) is native to western North America. It prefers a well-drained site with direct sunlight. In spring it produces clusters of small purple flowers that attract birds, butterflies, and hummingbirds. Fibers from the plant are also occasionally used as cladding for hand-built structures.
Bloom Time
Summer
Garden Usage
Sages belong to the genus Salvia. Most Salvia species require very little maintenance. These hardy, drought-resistant species are a particularly good choice for gardeners who prefer plants that require little care. They are particularly well-suited to coastal gardens, a sunny aspect, or gardens with poor soil.
Brussels sprout
Brussels sprout
Brussels sprout (Brassica oleracea var. gemmifera) are grown in cool-weather vegetable gardens to harvest their miniature cabbage-like buds. It's thought the common name comes from this vegetable's popularity in Brussels, Belgium, which dates back at least to the 1300s.
Bloom Time
Spring
Garden Usage
Brassica is a genus of plant that serves to meet a number of dietary needs. It is a wide, diverse genus that includes several kitchen cupboard mainstays including cabbage, cauliflower and kale or collards. These plants develop thick, succulent parts that are both visually appealing and delicious once cooked. There is also something pleasing about purveying a landscape of perfectly planted, ready-to-pick white or green cabbages as they reach full maturity, or the unmistakable sea of yellow flowers created through the planting of mustard seed over several acres. The Brassica genus is one that is unique and highly versatile underpinning human diets worldwide for generations., The Brassica genus is wide covering a number of different common kitchen vegetables including the more well-known broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower. Other kitchen items within the Brassica category through rarely appreciated as being as so include radishes, swedes, turnips, rocket salad and of course mustard seed. The well-known above-ground green brassicas such as cabbage and broccoli require similar planting and treatment, whilst turnips and swedes require others. Variations include fertilizer treatment, planting schedules, watering and pest management.
Black currant
Black currant
Black currant (Ribes nigrum) is a deciduous shrub that will grow from 91 to 152 cm tall. It blooms from spring to summer with drooping clusters of red-tipped green flowers. Black currant berries ripen in late summer and can be eaten fresh or cooked. The plant can be distinguished from the red currant not only by the color of the berries but by the strong smell of its leaves. Grows in full sun to partial shade.
Bloom Time
Spring
Garden Usage
Plants in the genus of Ribes are perennial deciduous shrubs. Their flowers are fragrant and beautiful. Some of them produce edible berries, which are deliciously sweet and widely used. They can be eaten raw or used to make jams, wines, pastries, and beverages. They can be planted in the garden or a pot on a balcony or a rooftop patio, and they are easy to maintain. They make a great choice for growing as a green hedge.
Bellflower
Bellflower
Bellflower is a subspecies of the stinking bonnet. It is a perennial bellflower with drooping, pale purple blooms. Bellflower can often be found on grassy slopes, forests, and meadows in southwest China.
Bald cypress
Bald cypress
Bald cypress (Taxodium distichum) is a long-lived deciduous conifer native to swamps, creeks, and rivers in southeastern areas of North America. These trees grow quite slow, but due to their longevity, they can reach remarkable heights. Bald cypress is often cultivated as an ornamental plant in temperate and subtropical regions worldwide.
Bloom Time
Spring
Garden Usage
Bald cypress is a tall, upright deciduous tree. It has soft, feather-like leaves that are yellow-green in spring and turn attractively orange-red before fading in fall. It is slow-growing but long-lived, requires little maintenance, and can grow taller than 20 m. The lush foliage and the small round fruits ofbald cypress will attract birds to your garden.
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Fringe flower
Fringe flower
Fringe flower
Fringe flower
Fringe flower
Add to My Garden
Fringe flower
Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum
Also known as: Redleaf loropetalum
Hardiness Zones
7 to 10
Hardiness Zones
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Questions About Fringe flower

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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Fringe flower based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot  Brown spot  Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch  Leaf scorch  Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
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Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects  Sap-sucking insects  Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Learn More more
Sooty mold
Sooty mold  Sooty mold  Sooty mold
Sooty mildew causes black mold on the leaves that can be wiped away.
Solutions: The first step in treating the plant is to eradicate the insects that secrete the honeydew substance. Visually inspect the plant for insects, making sure to look on the underside of leaves and in the crotch of branches. Insects that may be present are as follows: Aphids are minuscule pear-shaped bugs. Most are green in color. Whiteflies are pale in color, almost translucent, and are covered with a powdery whitish wax. They may look like tiny white moths. Scale appears as small brown bumps attached to the leaves and branches, with either a soft or armored coating. Mealybugs are small white insects that look like cotton wool. To treat insect infestation, follow these steps: Handpick insects off if the infestation is minor. Wipe plant leaves gently with a clean, damp cloth or spray with a jet of water from the hose to dislodge them. Treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil for serious infestations. The fatty acids in insecticidal soaps suffocate small-bodied insects. Neem oil is a common botanical pesticide that blocks the hormones that transition insects from larva to pupa to adult, halting the insect’s life cycle. Once the insect infestation has been treated, remove as much mold from the leaves as possible. The remaining mold will dry out due to the lack of honeydew and will fall off the plant. Wash with insecticidal or very dilute dishwashing soap. Apply a couple of hours before rain is predicted, if possible. The soap will help soften the soot, making it easier to rinse it away. Spray plants with a steady stream of water.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Leaf scorch
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Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Overview
Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
  • Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
  • Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms.
  • Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves.
  • Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement.
  • Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation.
  • If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach.
  • If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry.
  • Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections.
  • If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Physiological leaf scorch is best avoided by making sure your plants have a healthy, functional root system and access to enough water. Water regularly, especially on the mornings of excessively hot, sunny days. Deep, infrequent irrigation is better than shallow, frequent irrigation.
  • Have your soil tested and apply the proper nutrients. Be sure to not over-apply fertilizers.
  • Make sure your plants’ roots have room to expand. Avoid compacted soil as well and avoid paving areas above the root zone. Do not till or disturb the soil where plant roots are growing.
  • Plant new trees and shrubs in the fall, so that they have the maximum amount of time to become established before the environmental stresses of the next summer.
  • Remove any dead or dying plant tissue that may harbor secondary infections.
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Sap-sucking insects
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Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
  1. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
  2. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
  3. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
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Sooty mold
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Sooty mold
Sooty mildew causes black mold on the leaves that can be wiped away.
Overview
Overview
Sooty mold is a common disease of many plant varieties, especially those that are likely to be attacked by aphids and scale insects. While this disease can be unsightly and will reduce the plant's ability to photosynthesize, it generally won't kill an affected plant. It is treatable by fixing the underlying cause.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Plants are covered with a black soot-like substance. Sooty mold can cover leaves, stems, flower buds, and other parts of the plant.
Sometimes, there are also signs of small white casts on the mold, which are the result of the insects shedding.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Sooty mold is a secondary disease that is a result of a pest problem. Sap-sucking insects such as aphids, mealybugs, whiteflies, and scale insects excrete a honeydew-like substance that sticks to the surface of the plant. When various parts of the plant are covered in this honeydew, the sooty mold fungal spores land on the plant and start to reproduce. This causes the black mold that can be seen on the plant. It's somewhat similar to the black mold that infects damp areas in the house.
Sooty mold does not feed on the plants themselves but rather on the honeydew secreted by insect pests.
Solutions
Solutions
The first step in treating the plant is to eradicate the insects that secrete the honeydew substance. Visually inspect the plant for insects, making sure to look on the underside of leaves and in the crotch of branches. Insects that may be present are as follows:
  • Aphids are minuscule pear-shaped bugs. Most are green in color.
  • Whiteflies are pale in color, almost translucent, and are covered with a powdery whitish wax. They may look like tiny white moths.
  • Scale appears as small brown bumps attached to the leaves and branches, with either a soft or armored coating.
  • Mealybugs are small white insects that look like cotton wool.
To treat insect infestation, follow these steps:
  1. Handpick insects off if the infestation is minor. Wipe plant leaves gently with a clean, damp cloth or spray with a jet of water from the hose to dislodge them.
  2. Treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil for serious infestations. The fatty acids in insecticidal soaps suffocate small-bodied insects. Neem oil is a common botanical pesticide that blocks the hormones that transition insects from larva to pupa to adult, halting the insect’s life cycle.
Once the insect infestation has been treated, remove as much mold from the leaves as possible. The remaining mold will dry out due to the lack of honeydew and will fall off the plant.
  1. Wash with insecticidal or very dilute dishwashing soap. Apply a couple of hours before rain is predicted, if possible. The soap will help soften the soot, making it easier to rinse it away.
  2. Spray plants with a steady stream of water.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. Keep plants properly watered. Drought stress will increase susceptibility to insect problems.
  2. Fertilize plants per the recommended schedule on the product label to strengthen natural plant defenses.
  3. Control insects that produce honeydew. Grow plants that attract beneficial insects or grow plants that naturally deter sap-suckers.
  4. Control ants on tree stems with sticky tape. Ants like honeydew and will protect honeydew-producing insects from predators like ladybugs.
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Distribution Map

Habitat

Limestone, Stream banks, Hilly slopes, Roadsides

Map

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Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
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Plant Type
Plant Type
Shrub
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Early summer
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Red

Name story

Fringe flower
Its ruby-colored leaves make it stand out fresh and bright when compared to other plants. The color of the leaves will remain the same throughout the same. During spring, its branches will blossom attractive neon-pink flowers. As each petal is slender and curved like a girl's fringe hanging smoothly on a branch, it is then called fringe flower.

Symbolism

Fortune, happiness, a lifetime companion

Usages

Artistic Value
Chinese fringe flower 'fire dance' is a key protected plant.
Garden Use
Fringe flower is an evergreen shrub commonly found in gardens in warm climates. It is prized for its richly colored foliage and unique-looking, delicately scented flowers. Its bushy appearance makes it suitable for borders and screening. Fringe flower is essential in Japanese-style gardens. Plant with Black Mondo or Kangaroo Paw to make a strong color contrast.
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