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Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow
Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow
Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow
Ludwigia glandulosa
Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow (Ludwigia glandulosa) is a perennial plant species that grows commonly in wetland areas. Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow thrives in warm temperatures and full sunlight. This plant species is often planted in aquariums because its fibrous roots filter and oxygenate the water, providing a healthy habitat for fish.
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring
care guide

Care Guide for Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow

Soil Care
Soil Care
Neutral
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
Ideal Lighting
Ideal Lighting
Full sun, Partial sun
Details on Sunlight Requirements Ideal Lighting
Ideal Temperature
Ideal Temperature
5 to 11
Details on Temperature Ideal Temperature
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring
Details on Planting Time Planting Time
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Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow
Water
Water
Once per day
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring
question

Questions About Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow?
When watering the Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow, you should aim to use filtered water that is at room temperature. Filtered water is better for this plant, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to its health. The reason that the water should be at room temperature or slightly warmer is that the Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow comes from a warm environment, and cold water can be somewhat of a shock to its system. Also, you should avoid overhead watering for this plant, as it can cause foliage complications. Instead, simply apply your filtered room temperature water to the soil until the soil is entirely soaked. Soaking the soil can be very beneficial for this plant as it moistens the roots and helps them continue to spread through the soil and collect the nutrients they need.
Read More more
What should I do if I water my Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow too much or too little?
Both overwatering and underwatering will be detrimental to the health of your Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow, but overwatering is a far more common issue. When this species receives too much water, its stems and leaves may begin to wilt and turn from green to yellow. Overwatering over a prolonged period may also lead to diseases such as root rot, mold, and mildew, all of which can kill your plant. Underwatering is far less common for the Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow, as this plant has decent drought tolerance. However, underwatering remains a possibility, and when it occurs, you can expect to find that the leaves of your Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow have become brittle and brown.
It is crucial that you notice the signs of overwatering as soon as possible when caring for your Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow. Some of the diseases that arise from overwatering, such as root rot, may not be correctable if you wait too long. If you see early signs of overwatering, you should reduce your watering schedule immediately. You may also want to assess the quality of soil in which your Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow grows. If you find that the soil drains very poorly, you should replace it immediately with a loose, well-draining potting mix. On the other hand, if you find signs that your Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow is receiving too little water, all you need to do is water more regularly until those signs have subsided.
Read More more
How often should I water my Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow?
If your plant is in a pot. The most precise way to decide whether your Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow needs water is to plunge your finger into the soil. If you notice that the first two to three inches of soil have become dry, it is time to add some water.
If you grow your Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow outdoors in the ground, you can use a similar method to test the soil. Again, when you find that the first few inches of soil have dried out, it is time to add water. During the spring and early fall, this method will often lead you to water this plant about once every week. When extremely hot weather arrives, you may need to increase your watering frequency to about twice or more per week. With that said, mature, well-established the Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow can show an admirable ability to withstand drought.
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How much water does my Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow need?
When it comes time to water your Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow, you should not be shy about how much water you give. With the first two to three inches of soil dry, this plant will appreciate a long and thorough watering. Supply enough water to soak the soil entirely. The amount of water you add should be enough to cause excess water to flow through the drainage holes at the bottom of your pot. If you don’t see excess water draining from the pot, you have likely underwatered your plant. But do not let the water accumulate inside the soil, which will be very dangerous to the plant as well. Alternatively, a lack of water draining through the pot could indicate poorly draining soils, which is detrimental to the health of this plant and should be avoided. If the plant is outside, 1 inch of rain per week will be sufficient.
Read More more
How should I water my Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow at different growth stages?
The water needs of the Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow can change depending on growth stages as well. For example, when your Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow is in the first few years of its life, or if you have just transplanted it to a new growing location, you will need to give more water than usual. During both of those stages, your Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow will put a lot of energy towards sprouting new roots that will then support future growth. For those roots to perform their best, they need a bit more moisture than they would at a more mature phase. After a few seasons, your Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow will need much less water. Another growth stage in which this plant may need more water is during the bloom period. Flower development can make use of a significant amount of moisture, which is why you might need to give your Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow more water at this time.
Read More more
How should I water my Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow through the seasons?
The Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow will have its highest water needs during the hottest months of the year. During the height of summer, you may need to give this plant water more than once per week, depending on how fast the soil dries out. The opposite is true during the winter. In winter, your plant will enter a dormant phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. In fact, you may not need to water this plant at all during the winter months. However, if you do water during winter, you should not do so more than about once per month. Watering too much at this time will make it more likely that your Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow will contract a disease.
Read More more
What's the difference between watering my Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow indoors and outdoors?
It is most common to grow the Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow indoors for any gardener that does not live in temperate and tropical regions. Those gardeners should consider the fact that soil in a container can dry out a bit faster than ground soil. Also, the presence of drying elements such as air conditioning units can cause your Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow to need water on a more frequent basis as well. if you planted it outside. When that is the case, it’s likely you won’t need to water your Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow very much at all. If you receive rainfall on a regular basis, that may be enough to keep your plant alive. Alternatively, those who grow this plant inside will need to water it more often, as allowing rainwater to soak the soil will not be an option.
Read More more
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Key Facts About Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow

Attributes of Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Herb
Planting Time
Spring
Bloom Time
Summer, Fall
Plant Height
15 cm to 40 cm
Spread
5 cm to 12 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Red
Flower Color
Yellow
Stem Color
Red
Dormancy
Winter dormancy
Leaf type
Deciduous
Ideal Temperature
5 - 38 ℃

Scientific Classification of Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow

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Common Pests & Diseases About Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow

Common issues for Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
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Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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Leaf scorch
plant poor
Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Overview
Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
  • Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
  • Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.
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distribution

Distribution of Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow

Habitat of Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow

Wetland areas, roadside ditches
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
habit
care_scenes

More Info on Cylindric-fruit Primrose-willow Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
Explore More
Lighting
Full sun
Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow requires a generous amount of sunlight each day to sustain healthy growth. It can manage with slightly less light but too much shade can inhibit growth. Originating in environments where abundant sunlight is common, it thrives best under conditions that mimic this. Both too little and too much light can adversely affect its health.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
-20 - 43 ℃
The cylindric-fruit primrose-willow requires a temperature range of 41 to 100 ℉ (5 to 38 ℃) for optimal growth. In its native environment, it grows in areas with mild to warm temperatures. During winter, the plant adjusts well to cooler temperatures and can survive some frost. In summer, it is recommended to keep the plant in a shaded area to avoid heat stress.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
30-45 cm
The perfect time to transplant cylindric-fruit primrose-willow is during the early to mid-summer season, as the warm weather encourages successful growth and adaptation. Choose a well-draining location with abundant sunlight for best results. Additionally, ensure that the transplanted cylindric-fruit primrose-willow receives ample care and attention during its transition period.
Transplant Techniques
Feng shui direction
Southeast
The cylindric-fruit primrose-willow conveys a sense of tranquility and balance, resonating harmoniously with Feng Shui principles. Ideally situated in the Southeast direction, its elongated form is said to encourage financial prosperity, echoing the Wood element associated with this direction. However, as Feng Shui interpretations can vary, individual experiences may differ.
Fengshui Details
other_plant

Plants Related to Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow

Common water-plantain
Common water-plantain
Common water-plantain is an aquatic flowering perennial that can grow in mud or shallow water. Its flowers open in the afternoon. The plant's Latin name, Alisma plantago-aquatica, comes from a Celtic word for water.
Common tarweed
Common tarweed
Common tarweed (Deinandra fasciculata) is a member of the daisy family and is native to western North America, particularly California. It gets its common name from the fact that it exudes a pungent, tar-like aroma, likely in order to ward off predators.
Common tarweed
Common tarweed
Centromadia pungens is an herb up to 1.2 m tall. It produces arrays of numerous yellow flower heads with both ray florets and disc florets.
Common sainfoin
Common sainfoin
Common sainfoin (Onobrychis viciifolia) is an erect, perennial, herbaceous legume that blooms in spring and in fall. Clusters of spiked blossoms bloom along a stem. Striped pink flowers attract a variety of bees. Seed pods form and have small spikes that cling to animal fur and help to propagate the plants in new locations.
Common pepperweed
Common pepperweed
Common pepperweed (Lepidium densiflorum) is an annual or biennial herb that is indigenous to North America, but which is listed as a noxious weed in many parts of the continent, as well as in non-native areas. The species is introduced in Europe and Asia.
Common mistletoe
Common mistletoe
Common mistletoe (Viscum album) is a shrub that grows on the stems of trees. Its native range is in Europe, but it has been imported to North America as well. Common mistletoe is parasitic, getting most of its water and nutrients from the host tree. All portions of the plant are toxic and can be fatal if ingested in concentrated form.
Poison ivy
Poison ivy
In pop culture, poison ivy is a symbol of an obnoxious weed because, despite its unthreatening looks, it gives a highly unpleasant contact rash to the unfortunate person who touches it. Still, it is commonly eaten by many animals, and the seeds are a favorite with birds. The leaves turn bright red in fall. Its sister species, Western poison ivy (Toxicodendron rydbergii), is not considered to be invasive in the United States, but is noxious in Australia and New Zealand.
Pokeweed
Pokeweed
Although its berries look juicy and tempting, the fruits and the root of pokeweed are toxic and should not be eaten. Pokeweed is considered a pest species by farmers but is nevertheless often grown as an ornamental plant. Its berries can be made into pokeberry ink as well.
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Related Plants
Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow
Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow
Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow
Ludwigia glandulosa
Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow (Ludwigia glandulosa) is a perennial plant species that grows commonly in wetland areas. Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow thrives in warm temperatures and full sunlight. This plant species is often planted in aquariums because its fibrous roots filter and oxygenate the water, providing a healthy habitat for fish.
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring
care guide

Care Guide for Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow

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Questions About Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow?
more
What should I do if I water my Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow too much or too little?
more
How often should I water my Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow?
more
How much water does my Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow need?
more
How should I water my Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow at different growth stages?
more
How should I water my Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow through the seasons?
more
What's the difference between watering my Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow indoors and outdoors?
more
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close
plant_info

Key Facts About Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow

Attributes of Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Herb
Planting Time
Spring
Bloom Time
Summer, Fall
Plant Height
15 cm to 40 cm
Spread
5 cm to 12 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Red
Flower Color
Yellow
Stem Color
Red
Dormancy
Winter dormancy
Leaf type
Deciduous
Ideal Temperature
5 - 38 ℃
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Scientific Classification of Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow

Common issues for Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More About the Brown spot more
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More About the Aged yellow and dry more
Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch Leaf scorch Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Learn More About the Leaf scorch more
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close
Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Aged yellow and dry
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Leaf scorch
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Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Overview
Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
  • Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
  • Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms.
  • Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves.
  • Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement.
  • Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation.
  • If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach.
  • If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry.
  • Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections.
  • If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Physiological leaf scorch is best avoided by making sure your plants have a healthy, functional root system and access to enough water. Water regularly, especially on the mornings of excessively hot, sunny days. Deep, infrequent irrigation is better than shallow, frequent irrigation.
  • Have your soil tested and apply the proper nutrients. Be sure to not over-apply fertilizers.
  • Make sure your plants’ roots have room to expand. Avoid compacted soil as well and avoid paving areas above the root zone. Do not till or disturb the soil where plant roots are growing.
  • Plant new trees and shrubs in the fall, so that they have the maximum amount of time to become established before the environmental stresses of the next summer.
  • Remove any dead or dying plant tissue that may harbor secondary infections.
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distribution

Distribution of Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow

Habitat of Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow

Wetland areas, roadside ditches
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
care_scenes

More Info on Cylindric-fruit Primrose-willow Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Plants Related to Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow

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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow requires a generous amount of sunlight each day to sustain healthy growth. It can manage with slightly less light but too much shade can inhibit growth. Originating in environments where abundant sunlight is common, it thrives best under conditions that mimic this. Both too little and too much light can adversely affect its health.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow thrives in full sunlight and is commonly grown outdoors where it receives ample sunlight. When placed in rooms with inadequate lighting, symptoms of light deficiency may not be readily apparent.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your cylindric-fruit primrose-willow may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Slower or no new growth
Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow thrives in full sun exposure and can tolerate intense sunlight. With their remarkable resilience, symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible, as they rarely suffer from it.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
The cylindric-fruit primrose-willow requires a temperature range of 41 to 100 ℉ (5 to 38 ℃) for optimal growth. In its native environment, it grows in areas with mild to warm temperatures. During winter, the plant adjusts well to cooler temperatures and can survive some frost. In summer, it is recommended to keep the plant in a shaded area to avoid heat stress.
Regional wintering strategies
Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by covering the plant with materials such as soil or straw. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in %s
Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, there may be a decrease in sprouting or even no sprouting during springtime.
Solutions
In spring, remove any parts that have failed to sprout.
Symptoms of High Temperature in %s
During summer, Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, prone to curling, susceptible to sunburn, and in severe cases, the entire plant may wilt and become dry.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Cylindric-fruit Primrose-willow?
The perfect time to transplant cylindric-fruit primrose-willow is during the early to mid-summer season, as the warm weather encourages successful growth and adaptation. Choose a well-draining location with abundant sunlight for best results. Additionally, ensure that the transplanted cylindric-fruit primrose-willow receives ample care and attention during its transition period.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Cylindric-fruit Primrose-willow?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Cylindric-fruit Primrose-willow?
The best period to transplant cylindric-fruit primrose-willow is during the early summertime right up until mid-summer. This season provides a warm, ideal environment for cylindric-fruit primrose-willow, enabling it to adapt easier, enhancing growth and establishing a stronger root system. Make the move at this golden time span for a fruitful transition of cylindric-fruit primrose-willow.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Cylindric-fruit Primrose-willow Plants?
For cylindric-fruit primrose-willow, provide enough room to grow by spacing each plant 12-18 inches (30-45 cm) apart. This will ensure they have plenty of space to flourish and get the nutrients they need.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Cylindric-fruit Primrose-willow Transplanting?
To prepare the soil for cylindric-fruit primrose-willow, use well-draining soil mix enriched with organic matter such as compost or aged manure. Add a slow-release granular fertilizer as a base nutrient source for healthy growth.
Where Should You Relocate Your Cylindric-fruit Primrose-willow?
Select a location with full sun to partial shade for transplanting cylindric-fruit primrose-willow. Ensuring that this location receives 6-8 hours of sunlight daily will promote strong growth and vigor in this beautiful perennial.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Cylindric-fruit Primrose-willow?
Shovel
You’ll need this to dig the hole in the ground where the plant will be transplanted.
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the soil and plant.
Watering Can
You’ll need this to water your cylindric-fruit primrose-willow plant both before and after transplanting.
Trowel
This smaller digging tool may be needed to loosen the soil around the cylindric-fruit primrose-willow plant before extraction and to finalize the transplanting hole's size.
Wheelbarrow
Helpful to transport the plant from its original location to its new spot in the ground.
How Do You Remove Cylindric-fruit Primrose-willow from the Soil?
From Ground: First, water the cylindric-fruit primrose-willow plant to dampen the soil. Then, use a shovel or trowel to dig a wide trench around the plant, ensuring the root ball remains intact. Gently work your tool under the root ball, taking care not to damage the roots, until you can lift the plant from the ground.
From Pot: If the cylindric-fruit primrose-willow plant is in a pot, start by watering the plant, and tap gently on the sides and bottom of the pot to loosen the soil and root ball. If necessary, tilt the pot or carefully tip it upside down, supporting the plant with your other hand, to get the plant out of the pot.
From Seedling Tray: If your cylindric-fruit primrose-willow is still a seedling in a tray, gently remove it with a small trowel, or even with your fingers, making sure to keep the roots and attached soil intact while lifting it out of the tray.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Cylindric-fruit Primrose-willow
Digging the hole
Use your shovel to dig a hole twice as wide and the same depth as the root ball of the cylindric-fruit primrose-willow plant. It's important that the hole is big enough for the roots to spread out.
Prepping the plant
Before positioning the plant in the hole, gently tease out the roots if they're compacted, allowing them to grow more freely after planting.
Planting
Place the plant in the hole at the same depth it was growing before. Backfill the hole with soil, firm it gently but do not stamp on it, because this could damage the roots or stem.
Watering
Water the plant thoroughly after transplanting to settle the soil around the roots and to help the plant recover from the shock of being moved.
How Do You Care For Cylindric-fruit Primrose-willow After Transplanting?
Watering
Keep the soil around the cylindric-fruit primrose-willow consistently moist, but not soggy, for at least a couple of weeks after transplanting. This helps establish a strong rooting system.
Pruning
Some pruning of the plant's stems or leaves immediately after transplanting can reduce the plant's stress. You're essentially reducing its workload of maintaining the foliage while it tries to re-establish roots.
Monitoring
Keep an eye on the plant during the first few weeks. Watch for signs of transplant shock such as leaf yellowing, drooping or wilted leaves, or a general look of 'sadness.' If these occur, adjust watering and consider additional shade, if feasible.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Cylindric-fruit Primrose-willow Transplantation.
What is the optimal time of the year for transplanting cylindric-fruit primrose-willow?
It's best to transplant cylindric-fruit primrose-willow early in summer through mid-summer. This provides the plant with plenty of time to establish itself before cooler temperatures arrive.
How much distance should I keep between two cylindric-fruit primrose-willow while transplanting?
In order to give cylindric-fruit primrose-willow ample room to grow, maintain a gap of around 12-18 inches (30-45 cm) between each plant. Happy planting!
What's the key for successful transplantation of cylindric-fruit primrose-willow?
The success largely hinges on the preparation of the root ball. Ensure it's undamaged and well-watered before the transplantation chore.
How deep should I plant cylindric-fruit primrose-willow?
When transplanting cylindric-fruit primrose-willow, make sure the root ball sits level with or slightly above the top of the hole. This will prevent water logging.
Do I need to amend the soil before transplanting cylindric-fruit primrose-willow?
Indeed! Incorporating compost or a slow-release fertilizer into your soil prior to transplanting will equip cylindric-fruit primrose-willow with the nutrients it needs to thrive.
What's the best method for watering cylindric-fruit primrose-willow after transplanting?
Immerse the root area thoroughly but delicately right after the transplant. Continue to water regularly, keeping the soil moist but don't drown it.
Should I prune cylindric-fruit primrose-willow after transplanting?
To reduce transplant shock, you may want to lightly prune cylindric-fruit primrose-willow after planting, removing damaged or excessively long branches. Don't overdo it - less is more!
How much sunlight does cylindric-fruit primrose-willow need after transplanting?
Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow enjoys a bright spot, but remember! Don't expose newly transplanted plants to direct afternoon sun immediately. Gradually acclimate it to the new light conditions.
What type of soil is best for transplanting cylindric-fruit primrose-willow?
Cylindric-fruit primrose-willow prefers well-draining soil. A rich, organic soil promotes healthy root buffer, which can help the plant withstand the transplant shock better.
Is mulching necessary after transplanting cylindric-fruit primrose-willow?
Yes, a generous layer of mulch around the base of cylindric-fruit primrose-willow will help to conserve soil moisture, maintain a consistent soil temperature, and suppress weed growth. Happy mulching!
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