Overwatered White nun Symptoms of overwatering include limp and wrinkled leaves, yellowing or decay, and general failure to thrive. When White nun owners see their plant’s leaves looking limp and shriveled, they can sometimes assume that is a sign that it isn’t getting enough water so they keep adding more. This just compounds the problem, so it’s important to look beyond the leaves to identify what’s happening with the roots. Healthy White nun roots are silvery green, green, or white and feel firm to the touch. When White nun has been overwatered, the roots will look mushy, limp, and brown or black in color. Rescue an overwatered White nun by cutting off any rotted roots with a sterile knife or garden shears and repotting them into a new growing medium. It is always better to avoid overwatering because it is possible you won’t be able to save your plant if root rot sets in, so be conservative with water to avoid this issue. Underwatered White nun Unfortunately, the initial symptoms of underwatering and overwatering are almost identical in White nun. Check the growing medium with your finger or a moisture meter to get a sense of how much water is being retained. You may need to increase the frequency of watering to get back on track with watering. Once again, the best way to understand the situation is to take a look at the roots. Underwatered roots look crisp, brown, and brittle. Healthy roots are pliable and green, so the difference should be obvious. Luckily it’s easy to revive a thirsty White nun, as long as the plant still has some healthy roots left. Trim off any dried up or dead root pieces, as they won’t be able to come back to life. Then repot the plant and water thoroughly. Within a week or two, shriveled and limp leaves should start to firm up and look healthy. If the leaves are too damaged to be revived once you water them thoroughly, they can be removed to make room for new growth.

Regardless of which type of medium you use, your White nun should be watered when the mix is mostly but not completely dry. This can vary depending on the environmental conditions, but generally it will be about once or twice a week in summer and as infrequently as once every 2 weeks in winter.

White nun is a epithet plant, which means that they do not grow in soil as most plants do. In order to grow a happy and healthy White nun, you’ll need to choose your growing medium carefully. Regardless of what your White nun grows in, the container needs to have plenty of drainage holes. White nun pots are specifically designed to hold a chunky potting mix with lots of ventilation compared to other plant pots. They also tend to be tall and narrow, allowing air to circulate around the center of the roots, not just the edges. One popular potting medium for White nun and other White nun is bark. It is generally sourced from fir trees and drains very well. Since White nun grows on bark in the wild, it makes sense that they would do well with a similar substrate when grown indoors. The disadvantage of using bark is that the plant needs watering more often since bark dries out quickly. The other common planting medium for orchids in sphagnum moss. Most commercially grown White nun specimens will be sold in moss, because it is lightweight, cheap, and it allows nurseries to water less often. Unfortunately, sphagnum moss is not very forgiving for those who aren't experts in orchids. Because it is extremely absorbent, moss runs the risk of holding too much water next to the roots, resulting in root rot. If your White nun is planted in sphagnum and you plan to keep it that way, be very judicious in your watering. Less is more when it comes to watering in general, and it is quite difficult to reverse root rot once it has set in. Watering your White nun from below is recommended, as this allows you to avoid splashing water on the leaves, stem, and flowers. To water from below, set the pot into a container of water and allow the roots to soak up moisture for 10-15 minutes. Normally, you can stop this process when the surface of sphagnum is wet. Drain thoroughly before returning your White nun to its normal location, as these plants hate to sit in water.

Far from damaging the plant, regular pruning will actually encourage White nun to produce more blooms. There are two primary forms of pruning for White nun. The first is deadheading, which is the gardening term for removing spent flower heads once they start to wither. This concentrates the nutrients for the other flowers and allows the plant to flower better. The final process for pruning White nun is the removal of yellow and diseased leaves, which increases plant ventilation and light penetration and facilitates plant growth. When nature runs its course, White nun will bloom once, produce seed heads, and attempt to reproduce for the rest of the year. But, by consistently removing flower heads before they go to seed, you encourage the plant to continue producing more blooms for a longer flowering time. When the plant starts to wilt during the full, you should cut off the wilted part above the soil as well.

There are two primary forms of pruning for White nun. The first is deadheading, which is the gardening term for removing spent flower heads once they start to wither. This concentrates the nutrients for the other flowers and allows the plant to flower better. The final process for pruning White nun is the removal of yellow and diseased leaves, which increases plant ventilation and light penetration and facilitates plant growth. Since White nun requires two types of pruning, you’ll be trimming your plants throughout the growing season. Pinching is most effective in the early spring before the plant develops any flower buds. Removal of yellowing or diseased leaves can be done at any time during the growing season. When nature runs its course, White nun will bloom once, produce seed heads, and attempt to reproduce for the rest of the year. But, by consistently removing flower heads before they go to seed, you encourage the plant to continue producing more blooms for a longer flowering time. Finally, deadheading takes place as soon as the plants are producing full flower heads. Expect to take off spent blossoms from mid-summer through the first frosts of fall. When the plant starts to wilt during the full, you should cut off the wilted part above the soil as well.

White nun doesn’t take much special equipment for pruning. A basic pair of scissors or garden shears should do the trick. It’s a good idea to ensure they are clean before use—you can soak them for thirty minutes in a solution of one part bleach diluted in nine parts water. This reduces the risk of spreading disease lingering on contaminated equipment into your flower garden. Some gardeners avoid using tools altogether and merely pinch off the blossoms with their fingertips. That can be a faster technique, but you run a larger risk of bruising the plant stems or accidentally pulling them out of the ground completely.

Here’s an overview of pruning instructions for White nun based on which of the two types you’re completing. By completing these two types of pruning over the lifespan of your White nun, you’ll encourage them to produce bigger, better flowers for far longer than the plants would otherwise. It only takes a few minutes to complete each step of the pruning process, and you’ll reap the rewards of your efforts for weeks to come. Deadheading Deadheading is a fast, easy way to refresh your garden by removing old flowers and providing space for new ones to take their place. You can use your fingers to pop off old flower heads as soon as they look tired, although you’re less likely to damage the plant if you use shears instead. When deadheading, make sure you cut well below the flower so that you aren’t left with a long, flowerless stem sticking out in your garden bed. Instead, cut the stem to just above the point where the side stem joins the main plant. Remove yellow and diseased leaves, this increases the ventilation and light penetration of the plant and facilitates its growth. When pruning, the leaves need to be trimmed off together with the petiole. It is best to use sterilised scissors to cut them off. Note: It’s a good idea to ensure scissors or garden shears are clean before use—you can soak them for thirty minutes in a solution of one part bleach diluted in nine parts water. This reduces the risk of spreading disease lingering on contaminated equipment into your flower garden.

Epiphytic Orchids that prefer partial sun need 3-6 hours of direct sunlight each day. They should be placed in a location that receives morning sun and some shade in the afternoon to prevent overheating. Orchids that receive too much direct sun might develop sunburned leaves and dry out if they're not given enough humidity to support them in the heat.

If Epiphytic Orchids that prefer partial sun don't receive enough sunlight, they might not produce as many blooms as they would in ideal conditions. Their leaves might also become a darker green color than normal. Gardeners should ensure their plants receive enough indirect light and shade to prevent damage to their leaves and flowers.

Epiphytic Orchids that prefer partial sun might develop sunburned leaves and dry out if they receive too much direct sunlight. Gardeners should provide their plants with enough shade and indirect light to prevent damage to their leaves and flowers. They should also ensure that their plants receive enough humidity to support them in the heat. Gardeners could protect their plants by placing them in a location that receives morning sun and some shade in the afternoon. They could also use sheer curtains or blinds to provide their plants with enough indirect light and shade. Epiphytic Orchids that prefer partial sun should be watered regularly to maintain their humidity levels and keep their leaves and flowers healthy. By providing their plants with enough sunlight, humidity, and shade, gardeners could enjoy beautiful blooms from their Epiphytic Orchids year-round.

While both White nun and White nun require different levels of maintenance, they both grow best within the same temperature range. For warm-weather plants to thrive, you’ll want to keep them between 75-90℉ (25-32℃). White nun can handle some temperatures outside of this range, but if at all possible, keep your growing environment within several degrees of these limits. As for the highest and lowest temperatures White nun can withstand, that would fall between 50℉ (15℃) on the lower limit and 95℉(35℃) on the higher limit. As White nun prefers warmer weather, traditionally growing in summer if planted outdoors, the lower temperature range is the most important to avoid. Going below 70℉ (25℃) will result in slowed growth, and anything below 50℉ (15℃) will start to damage and even kill the plants.

The White nun will not bloom or flower if kept in low temperatures, so make sure to maintain a consistent range to allow them to flower to their full potential. Temperature fluctuations are also harmful, no matter what phase of growth they are in. Going below 70℉ (25℃) and above 90℉ (32℃) can slow down and hinder White nun growing phase, while sitting below 50℉ (15℃) for long periods of time can prevent them from flowering all together. White nun is not hardy, and therefore need a well-turned environment to grow properly. You’ll want to retain as much control over the temperature as you possibly can. White nun will also need to go through a cool period, which we discuss further below.

Tip #1: After Blooming, White nun Need a Cool Period When grown outside, White nun will go through a necessary cooling period for winter. When grown indoors or in a greenhouse, this same rule must be followed, but can happen during any season. If done correctly, your White nun can bloom multiple times a year. Keep your White nun between 75-90℉ (25-32℃) during this cooling period for the optimal effect. Tip #2: White nun Prefer it Colder at Night While you are likely going to grow your White nun, where you can keep them within the optimal temperature range and give them the right amount of light, White nun prefers colder temperatures at night when grown outdoors. This temperature range usually moves between 50~75℉(15-25℃). Due to the lack of climate control that growing outdoors involves, it's usually impossible to control if White nun stays within this range. Tip #3: Watch for the Signs of Cold Damage Because White nun enjoys the higher temperatures and lacks the hardiness of winter plants, it is especially susceptible to cold damage. You’ll want to make sure you monitor the temperature of your growing space closely. Anything below 50℉ (15℃) will begin to harm your plants, and too much cold exposure can kill them entirely. Watch for the signs that this damage is occurring: if your White nun starts to show discoloration on their foliage and stems, that means they are getting too cold. If large sections of your White nun are drying and turning brown, that means that the tissue is dying. Move White nun to a warmer environment immediately; in some cases, they can recover.

Unless you intend to grow White nun outside, you won’t need to worry about different temperatures for different seasons. If you can’t find space in your home or a greenhouse and you have to use an outdoor space, make sure that you grow them in the summer. You’ll also have to check that your area reaches, but doesn’t exceed, temperatures of between 75-90℉ (25-32℃). It can be nearly impossible to control outdoor weather conditions in that way, so it's almost always better to use an indoor space or greenhouse. White nun prefers as much sunlight as possible, so you’ll need to pick an area that gets ample natural light. A greenhouse makes this the better of the two options; these structures allow White nun to get the most direct sunlight possible while still maintaining the high temperatures they require.

The best way to maintain the right temperature for White nun is to place them in a climate controlled environment. This can be a room within your home, provided you have A/C or fans to ensure that the area stays within the optimal temperature range. If you live in a colder region, you will need to make sure you have a quality heating system. White nun does best in a hot environment, so you’ll want to ensure you have the ability to heat a room to temperatures as high as 75℉ (25℃). If you can’t feasibly heat a room in your home up to those temperatures, you’ll want to consider placing your White nun inside of a greenhouse. A greenhouse can save you money on heating, as the structure is naturally heated when sunlight passes through its clear or opaque glass panels. This keeps the greenhouse at the right temperature, making sure that White nun is growing in the best environment possible.

Fertilizer, and soil nutrients in general, are an essential form of fuel that your White nun will use to maintain healthy growth. In general, plants use the nutrients they find in the soil to develop new plant material and keep their existing components in good condition. For the White nun specifically, fertilization is necessary to help this plant display the best version of its flowers. Since the flowers are the main form of attraction to this plant, most gardeners will want to do all they can to ensure the flowers appear in their best form. Fertilization is one of the most reliable ways to help your White nun produce the best possible blooms.

The White nun goes through two main phases throughout each year. The first phase is the dormant phase, in which this plant will put forth minimal new growth. This dormant phase takes place during the winter. The other phase is the active growth phase, which takes place during spring and fall, which is when your White nun will need fertilization the most. Generally, it is best to fertilize your White nun starting in the spring months. You should repeat the feeding about once per month throughout the rest of the spring and through most of the summer. As fall approaches, you can begin to reduce your fertilization rate.

You want to support White nun growth, but you also don’t want to cause root burn. Your plant is actively growing in the spring and summer, it’s when the extra nutrients are necessary. In the fall and winter, your plant will enter its dormancy stage. It’s when you want to stop fertilizing.

The ideal fertilizer for a White nun is one that has a relatively balanced mix of the three main plant nutrients, with slightly higher amounts of phosphorus. Alternatively, some gardeners choose to improve their White nun 's soil by adding organic materials such as compost, worm castings, and manure. Fertilizers can come in many forms, and most of these forms will work well for your White nun. However, some of the best fertilizers for White nun come in either a liquid or a powdered form. Regardless of which you use, you should ensure that you dilute your fertilizer and apply it while watering your White nun.

Once you have found a suitable fertilizer and learned the ideal fertilization schedule for your White nun, you are ready to learn how to apply your fertilizer. When feeding your White nun, the most reliable method is to mix your liquid fertilizer with water before applying it to the soil. Each fertilizer may have different directions on how to feed your plants. Usually, it is best to follow the manufacturer's guidance on how to use the fertilizer they produce. These instructions should include information on how to properly dilute the fertilizer to prevent overfertilization. Mixing your fertilizer in water is an easy process, and once it is complete, all you need to do is pour the mixture into the soil where your White nun lives.

Overfertilization is something that you should consider when caring for any plant, but it is especially important when growing a White nun. A White nun, when overfertilized, will show clear signs of distress, which, at times, may be so serious that they lead to the death of your plant. Overfertilized White nun will likely show leaf discoloration as well, including browning. In the worst-case scenarios, excessive fertilization will draw moisture out of your plant's roots, which can cause it to decline quickly.