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Add to My Garden Creeping jenny
Lysimachia nummularia
Also known as: Two penny grass, Running jenny
The Latin name Lysimachia nummularia means "like a coin", giving the additional common names of herb twopence or twopenny grass. The creeping jenny works well as a groundcover and can be used in a bog garden.
4 to 8
Hardiness Zones
Weeds
Care Guide for Creeping jenny
Water
Creeping jenny is sensitive to both waterlogging and overly dry soil, so maintaining a consistent amount of moisture is best for your plant. Before the soil completely dries out, water your Creeping jenny with enough water to quench the soil but not drown the roots.
Fertilization
Creeping jenny enjoys an annual batch of fertilizer after having a year to let it establish its roots. Applying fertilizer too early will sacrifice roots for foliage. In the spring, feed it with a 10-10-10 balanced fertilizer by mixing it directly into the soil around the plant.
Pruning
Trim the diseased, withered leaves once a month.
Soil
Loam, Chalky, Sandy loam, Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Potting Suggestions
Needs excellent drainage in pots.
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Creeping jenny
Water
Every week
Hardiness Zones
4 to 8
Planting Time
Spring, Summer, Fall
Download and print this plant care card and attach it to your plants
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Creeping jenny
Water
Every week
Hardiness Zones
4 to 8
Planting Time
Spring, Summer, Fall
Download
Creeping jenny
Water
Every week
Hardiness Zones
4 to 8
Planting Time
Spring, Summer, Fall
Download
Questions About Creeping jenny
Watering 
Pruning 
Sunlight 
Temperature 
Fertilizing What is the best way to water my Creeping jenny?
When watering the Creeping jenny, you should aim to use filtered water that is at room temperature. Filtered water is better for this plant, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to its health. The reason that the water should be at room temperature or slightly warmer is that the Creeping jenny comes from a warm environment, and cold water can be somewhat of a shock to its system. Also, you should avoid overhead watering for this plant, as it can cause foliage complications. Instead, simply apply your filtered room temperature water to the soil until the soil is entirely soaked. Soaking the soil can be very beneficial for this plant as it moistens the roots and helps them continue to spread through the soil and collect the nutrients they need.
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What should I do if I water my Creeping jenny too much or too little?
Both overwatering and underwatering will be detrimental to the health of your Creeping jenny, but overwatering is a far more common issue. When this species receives too much water, its stems and leaves may begin to wilt and turn from green to yellow. Overwatering over a prolonged period may also lead to diseases such as root rot, mold, and mildew, all of which can kill your plant. Underwatering is far less common for the Creeping jenny, as this plant has decent drought tolerance. However, underwatering remains a possibility, and when it occurs, you can expect to find that the leaves of your Creeping jenny have become brittle and brown.
It is crucial that you notice the signs of overwatering as soon as possible when caring for your Creeping jenny. Some of the diseases that arise from overwatering, such as root rot, may not be correctable if you wait too long. If you see early signs of overwatering, you should reduce your watering schedule immediately. You may also want to assess the quality of soil in which your Creeping jenny grows. If you find that the soil drains very poorly, you should replace it immediately with a loose, well-draining potting mix. On the other hand, if you find signs that your Creeping jenny is receiving too little water, all you need to do is water more regularly until those signs have subsided.
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Free
How often should I water my Creeping jenny?
If your plant is in a pot. The most precise way to decide whether your Creeping jenny needs water is to plunge your finger into the soil. If you notice that the first two to three inches of soil have become dry, it is time to add some water.
If you grow your Creeping jenny outdoors in the ground, you can use a similar method to test the soil. Again, when you find that the first few inches of soil have dried out, it is time to add water. During the spring and early fall, this method will often lead you to water this plant about once every week. When extremely hot weather arrives, you may need to increase your watering frequency to about twice or more per week. With that said, mature, well-established the Creeping jenny can show an admirable ability to withstand drought.
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Free
How much water does my Creeping jenny need?
When it comes time to water your Creeping jenny, you should not be shy about how much water you give. With the first two to three inches of soil dry, this plant will appreciate a long and thorough watering. Supply enough water to soak the soil entirely. The amount of water you add should be enough to cause excess water to flow through the drainage holes at the bottom of your pot. If you don’t see excess water draining from the pot, you have likely underwatered your plant. But do not let the water accumulate inside the soil, which will be very dangerous to the plant as well. Alternatively, a lack of water draining through the pot could indicate poorly draining soils, which is detrimental to the health of this plant and should be avoided. If the plant is outside, 1 inch of rain per week will be sufficient.
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How should I water my Creeping jenny at different growth stages?
The water needs of the Creeping jenny can change depending on growth stages as well. For example, when your Creeping jenny is in the first few years of its life, or if you have just transplanted it to a new growing location, you will need to give more water than usual. During both of those stages, your Creeping jenny will put a lot of energy towards sprouting new roots that will then support future growth. For those roots to perform their best, they need a bit more moisture than they would at a more mature phase. After a few seasons, your Creeping jenny will need much less water. Another growth stage in which this plant may need more water is during the bloom period. Flower development can make use of a significant amount of moisture, which is why you might need to give your Creeping jenny more water at this time.
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How should I water my Creeping jenny through the seasons?
The Creeping jenny will have its highest water needs during the hottest months of the year. During the height of summer, you may need to give this plant water more than once per week, depending on how fast the soil dries out. The opposite is true during the winter. In winter, your plant will enter a dormant phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. In fact, you may not need to water this plant at all during the winter months. However, if you do water during winter, you should not do so more than about once per month. Watering too much at this time will make it more likely that your Creeping jenny will contract a disease.
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What's the difference between watering my Creeping jenny indoors and outdoors?
It is most common to grow the Creeping jenny indoors for any gardener that does not live in temperate and tropical regions. Those gardeners should consider the fact that soil in a container can dry out a bit faster than ground soil. Also, the presence of drying elements such as air conditioning units can cause your Creeping jenny to need water on a more frequent basis as well. if you planted it outside. When that is the case, it’s likely you won’t need to water your Creeping jenny very much at all. If you receive rainfall on a regular basis, that may be enough to keep your plant alive. Alternatively, those who grow this plant inside will need to water it more often, as allowing rainwater to soak the soil will not be an option.
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Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Creeping jenny based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Keep your leafy friends healthy and happy.
Diagnose your plant, and learn how to prevent and treat plant diseases.
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
- Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
- Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
- Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
- Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
- Avoid warm temperatures
- Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
- Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Weed Control
Weeds
Creeping jenny is a weed from Europe and western Asia. It is considered invasive to Norway, Portugal, Australia, Japan, and the United States. In the United States, it is invasive in California, Missouri, Maryland, Virginia, and Louisiana. It is able to adapt to different habitats like swamps and meadows. In these invaded areas, it disrupts the flow of water, which in turn impacts the growth of native plants. It forms dense weedy mats that displace native species. It also spreads quickly throughout its invaded habitat. The creeping jenny has been used for ornamental and other purposes. If necessary, the weed can be mechanically removed or by treating it with herbicides.
How to Control it
Best weeding time: before fruition Best weeding time: before fruition Removal: You can remove this weed by gloved hand or by tools in early autumn or early spring each year. Due to it being perennial, you need to completely clean out its root system to prevent it from regrowth. Chemical control: If the weed is too much to pull out, herbicide will be helpful for its eradication. Mowing: Mow twice by the end of spring each year and repeatedly do so for two consecutive years, and the spread of the weed could be contained. For weed on larger-sized land, machine mowing is recommended. Burning: If it doesn't climb on anything inflammable, you can burn it off with fire. Fire is an effective way to contain this plant. Burn the plant and its regrowth part repeatedly with a blowtorch till all plant parts are completely burned off.
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Distribution Map
Habitat
Pastures, by the sides of streams
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info
Plant Type
Herb
Bloom Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Early summer, Mid summer
Leaf Color
Green
Yellow
Name story
Creeping jenny
There is a botanical book in medieval times called "Creeping Jenny Centrum Morbidium" and the name means that "good medicine for all diseases". This is the kind of plant that is commonly used in traditional medicine. As it also spreads like it is creeping, it is called creeping Jenny.
Moneywort
The latin nummularia, refers to the meaning of "like a coin" which is inspired by the shape and color of the flowers. Hence, the common name such as moneywort is a reference to coins.
Symbolism
Peace, tranquility
Usages
Garden Use
Creeping jenny (Lysimachia nummularia) is a perennial with an attractive trailing appearance which makes it a great plant to grow in hanging baskets and raised containers. It also spills down walls or grows well along slopes and banks, making it a great companion to ornamental grasses or daylilies. Creeping jenny also makes for a great groundcover and adds great interest to a bog or rock garden. The rounded yellow-green leaves are glossy and provide the main ornamental appeal of this plant.
Scientific Classification
Phylum
Vascular plants Class
Dicotyledons Order
Heathers and allies Family
Primrose Genus
Loosestrifes Species
Creeping jenny Related Plants
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Straggler daisy
The straggler daisy is a low-growing ground cover plant that tolerates shade and can withstand moderate foot traffic. The straggler daisy blooms for the entire spring, summer, and well into fall. In frost-free areas, year-round blooming is possible and the flowers of this plant are a sunny yellow color.
Cathedral bells
Cathedral bells is a succulent plant from Madagascar remarkable for its ability to generate small bullets on the edges of "leaves." Actually, these thick, fleshy "leaves" are not true leaves but flattened shoots instead. Cathedral bells is easy to grow and used as a potting or hanging plant indoor.
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Beach sheoak
Beach sheoak (Casuarina equisetifolia) is a flowering evergreen tree that is considered invasive in some areas. Beach sheoak replaces native trees and disturbs their natural habitat. Beach sheoak produces a woody fruit that attract birds. It does not grow well in cold temperatures and is intolerant to frost. This species grows well in coastal areas and tolerates salty soil.
Prostrate sandmat
Prostrate sandmat (Euphorbia prostrata) is a plant species native to tropical regions of North and South America and the central United States. Prostrate sandmat has spread all over the globe and is considered an invasive species. This resilient plant often sprouts up through cracks in asphalt on roadsides.
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About
Care Guide
Care FAQ
Pests & Diseases
Weed Control
Distribution
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Related Plants
Related Articles
Add to My Garden Creeping jenny
Lysimachia nummularia
Also known as: Two penny grass, Running jenny
4 to 8
Hardiness Zones
Weeds
Care Guide for Creeping jenny
Water
Creeping jenny is sensitive to both waterlogging and overly dry soil, so maintaining a consistent amount of moisture is best for your plant. Before the soil completely dries out, water your Creeping jenny with enough water to quench the soil but not drown the roots.
Fertilization
Creeping jenny enjoys an annual batch of fertilizer after having a year to let it establish its roots. Applying fertilizer too early will sacrifice roots for foliage. In the spring, feed it with a 10-10-10 balanced fertilizer by mixing it directly into the soil around the plant.
Pruning
Trim the diseased, withered leaves once a month.
Soil
Loam, Chalky, Sandy loam, Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Potting Suggestions
Needs excellent drainage in pots.
Tips, advice, and instructions for over 13,000 species that you will find nowhere else
Creeping jenny
Lysimachia nummularia
Water
Every week
Hardiness Zones
4 to 8
Planting Time
Spring, Summer, Fall
Download
Questions About Creeping jenny
Watering Pruning Sunlight Temperature Fertilizing What is the best way to water my Creeping jenny?
Free
What should I do if I water my Creeping jenny too much or too little?
Free
How often should I water my Creeping jenny?
Free
How much water does my Creeping jenny need?
How should I water my Creeping jenny at different growth stages?
Show More ![more]()
You’ve got questions. We’ve got answers.
Let us help take all the guesswork out of your gardening.
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Creeping jenny based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More ![more]()
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More ![more]()
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Learn More ![more]()
Keep your leafy friends healthy and happy.
Diagnose your plant, and learn how to prevent and treat plant diseases.
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
- Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
- Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
- Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
- Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
- Avoid warm temperatures
- Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
- Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Weed Control
Weeds
Creeping jenny is a weed from Europe and western Asia. It is considered invasive to Norway, Portugal, Australia, Japan, and the United States. In the United States, it is invasive in California, Missouri, Maryland, Virginia, and Louisiana. It is able to adapt to different habitats like swamps and meadows. In these invaded areas, it disrupts the flow of water, which in turn impacts the growth of native plants. It forms dense weedy mats that displace native species. It also spreads quickly throughout its invaded habitat. The creeping jenny has been used for ornamental and other purposes. If necessary, the weed can be mechanically removed or by treating it with herbicides.
How to Control it
Best weeding time: before fruition Best weeding time: before fruition Removal: You can remove this weed by gloved hand or by tools in early autumn or early spring each year. Due to it being perennial, you need to completely clean out its root system to prevent it from regrowth. Chemical control: If the weed is too much to pull out, herbicide will be helpful for its eradication. Mowing: Mow twice by the end of spring each year and repeatedly do so for two consecutive years, and the spread of the weed could be contained. For weed on larger-sized land, machine mowing is recommended. Burning: If it doesn't climb on anything inflammable, you can burn it off with fire. Fire is an effective way to contain this plant. Burn the plant and its regrowth part repeatedly with a blowtorch till all plant parts are completely burned off.
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Distribution Map
Habitat
Pastures, by the sides of streams
Map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info
Plant Type
Herb
Bloom Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Early summer, Mid summer
Leaf Color
Green
Yellow
Name story
Creeping jenny
There is a botanical book in medieval times called "Creeping Jenny Centrum Morbidium" and the name means that "good medicine for all diseases". This is the kind of plant that is commonly used in traditional medicine. As it also spreads like it is creeping, it is called creeping Jenny.
Moneywort
The latin nummularia, refers to the meaning of "like a coin" which is inspired by the shape and color of the flowers. Hence, the common name such as moneywort is a reference to coins.
Symbolism
Peace, tranquility
Usages
Garden Use
Creeping jenny (Lysimachia nummularia) is a perennial with an attractive trailing appearance which makes it a great plant to grow in hanging baskets and raised containers. It also spills down walls or grows well along slopes and banks, making it a great companion to ornamental grasses or daylilies. Creeping jenny also makes for a great groundcover and adds great interest to a bog or rock garden. The rounded yellow-green leaves are glossy and provide the main ornamental appeal of this plant.
Scientific Classification
Phylum
Vascular plants Class
Dicotyledons Order
Heathers and allies Family
Primrose Genus
Loosestrifes Species
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