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Laurel sumac
Laurel sumac
Laurel sumac
Laurel sumac
Laurel sumac
Laurel sumac
Laurel sumac
Malosma laurina
The laurel sumac is a small tree with taco shell-shaped leaves. If flattened, the leaves resemble the shape of laurel leaves. A glowing reddish color is visible on the plant's stems, veins of its leaves, and the edges of the leaves all year round. Citrus growers use the laurel sumac's presence to indicate frost-free sites that have the potential to support citrus orchards.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
9 to 11
care guide

Care Guide for Laurel sumac

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Watering Care
Watering Care
Drought-tolerant. Allow the soil to dry completely between watering.
Details on Watering Care Watering Care
Soil Care
Soil Care
Neutral, Slightly alkaline
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
Ideal Lighting
Ideal Lighting
Full sun
Details on Sunlight Requirements Ideal Lighting
Ideal Temperature
Ideal Temperature
9 to 11
Details on Temperature Ideal Temperature
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring
Details on Planting Time Planting Time
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Laurel sumac
Water
Water
Every 2 weeks
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
9 to 11
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring
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Questions About Laurel sumac

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Watering Watering Watering
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What is the best way to water my Laurel sumac?
Your Laurel sumac will not be too picky about how you choose to water it. As such, you can use just about any common watering tool to moisten this plant’s soil. Watering cans, hoses, and even cups will work just fine when it is time to water your Laurel sumac. Regardless of which watering tool you use, you should typically apply the water directly to the soil. In doing so, you should ensure that you moisten all soil areas equally to give all parts of the root system the water it needs. It can help to use filtered water, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to plants. It is also beneficial to use water that is at or slightly above room temperature, as colder or hotter water can be somewhat shocking to the Laurel sumac. However, the Laurel sumac usually responds well to any kind of water you give it.
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What should I do if I water my Laurel sumac too much or too little?
For outdoor plants, especially newly planted plants or plant seedlings, they can be prone to lack of watering. Remember that you need to keep watering enough for a few months when the tree is small or just planted. This is because once the roots are established, Laurel sumac can rely on rain most of the time. When your Laurel sumac is planted in pots, overwatering is often more likely to.When you accidentally overwater your Laurel sumac, you should be prepared to remedy the situation immediately. First, you should stop watering your plant right away to minimize the effect of your overwatering. After, you should consider removing your Laurel sumac from its pot to inspect its roots. If you find that none of the roots have developed root rot, it may be permissible to return your plant to its container. If you do discover signs of root rot, then you should trim away any roots that have been affected. You may also want to apply a fungicide to prevent further damage. Lastly, you should repot your Laurel sumac in soil that is well-draining. In the case of an underwatered Laurel sumac, simply water this plant more frequently. Underwatering is often an easy fix. If you underwater, the plant's leaves will tend to droop and dry out and fall off, and the leaves will quickly return to fullness after sufficient watering. Please correct your watering frequency as soon as underwatering occurs.
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How often should I water my Laurel sumac?
Most plants that grow naturally outdoors can be allowed to grow normally with rainfall. If your area lacks rainfall, consider giving your plants adequate watering every 2 weeks during the spring and fall. More frequent watering is needed in summer. In winter, when growth becomes slower and plants need less water, water more sparingly. Throughout the winter, you may not give it additional watering at all. If your Laurel sumac is young or newly planted, then you should water more frequently to help it establish, and mature and grow up to have more adaptable and drought tolerant plants. For potted plants, there are two main ways that you can determine how often to water your Laurel sumac. The first way is to set a predetermined watering schedule. If you choose this route, you should plan to water this plant about once every week or once every other week. However, this approach may not always work as it does not consider the unique conditions of the growing environment for your Laurel sumac . Your watering frequency can also change depending on the season. For instance, a predetermined watering schedule will likely not suffice during summer when this plant's water needs are highest. An alternative route is to set your watering frequency based on soil moisture. Typically, it is best to wait until the first two to four inches of soil, usually ⅓ to ½ depth of the pots, have dried out entirely before you give more water.
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How much water does my Laurel sumac need?
When it comes time to water your Laurel sumac, you may be surprised to find that this plant does not always need a high volume of water. Instead, if only a few inches of soil have dried since your last watering, you can support healthy growth in the Laurel sumac by giving it about five to ten ounces of water every time you water. You can also decide your water volume based on soil moisture. As mentioned above, you should note how many inches of soil have dried out between waterings. A surefire way to make sure your Laurel sumac gets the moisture it needs is to supply enough water to moisten all the soil layers that became dry since the last time you watered. If more than half of the soil has become dry, you should consider giving more water than usual. In those cases, continue adding water until you see excess water draining from your pot’s drainage holes. If your Laurel sumac is planted in an area that gets plenty of rain outdoors, it may not need additional watering. When the Laurel sumac is young or just getting established, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As it continues to grow and establish, it can survive entirely on rainwater and only when the weather is hot and there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving your Laurel sumac a full watering to prevent them from suffering stress.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Laurel sumac enough?
Overwatering is a far more common problem for the Laurel sumac, and there are several signs you should look for when this occurs. Generally, an overwatered Laurel sumac will have yellowing leaves and may even drop some leaves. Also, overwatering can cause the overall structure of your plant to shrivel and may also promote root rot. On the other hand, an underwatered Laurel sumac will also begin to wilt. It may also display leaves that are brown or brittle to the touch. Whether you see signs of overwatering or underwatering, you should be prepared to intervene and restore the health of your Laurel sumac.
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How can I water my Laurel sumac at different growth stages?
When the Laurel sumac is very young, such as when it is in a seedling stage, you will need to give it more water than you would if it were at a mature age. During the early stages of this plant’s life, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist to encourage root development. The same is true for any Laurel sumac that you have transplanted to a new growing location. Also, the Laurel sumac can develop showy flowers and fruits when you give them the correct care. If your Laurel sumac is in a flowering or fruiting phase, you will likely need to give a bit more water than you usually would to support these plant structures.
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How can I water my Laurel sumac through the seasons?
The seasonal changes will affect how often you water your Laurel sumac. Mainly, during the hottest summer months, you will likely need to increase how much you water this plant, especially if it grows in an area that receives ample sunlight. Strong summer sunlight can cause soil to dry out much faster than usual, meaning that you’ll need to water more frequently. By contrast, your Laurel sumac will need much less water during the winter, as it will not be in an active growing phase. During winter, you can get by with watering once every 2 to 3 weeks or sometimes not at all. For those growing this plant indoors, you should be somewhat wary of appliances such as air conditioners, which can cause your plant to dry out more quickly, which also calls for more frequent watering.
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What's the difference between watering my Laurel sumac indoors vs outdoors?
In some cases, your Laurel sumac may not need any supplemental watering when it grows outside and will survive on rainwater alone. However, if you live in an area of little to no rain, you should water this plant about every two weeks. If you belong to the group of people who live out of this plant's natural hardiness zone, you should grow it indoors. In an indoor setting, you should monitor your plant's soil as it can dry out more quickly when it is in a container or when it is exposed to HVAC units such as air conditioners. Those drying factors will lead you to water this plant a bit more often than if you grew it outdoors.
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Key Facts About Laurel sumac

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Attributes of Laurel sumac

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Tree
Planting Time
Spring
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer
Harvest Time
All year around
Plant Height
3 m to 5 m
Spread
3 m to 4.5 m
Leaf Color
Green
Red
Bronze
Flower Size
2.5 cm
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Green
Fruit Color
Red
White
Stem Color
Red
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃

Symbolism

Ambition, Success, Renown

Scientific Classification of Laurel sumac

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Laurel sumac

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Common issues for Laurel sumac based on 10 million real cases
Flower withering
Flower withering Flower withering
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Witches' broom
Witches' broom Witches' broom
Witches' broom
Clumping disease causes a large number of thin branches to grow from a single bud site.
Solutions: There is currently no cure to reverse the odd growth pattern of a witches' broom once it has formed. While these growths may be unsightly, they don't pose any serious threat to plants on their own. However, their underlying cause may weaken the plant, so it's best to check for other pest and disease problems and treating those. The broom can be trimmed away by pruning several inches below the growth. Without treating the true cause, however, it's common for a new witches' broom to grow where one has previously been removed.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
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Flower withering
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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Witches' broom
plant poor
Witches' broom
Clumping disease causes a large number of thin branches to grow from a single bud site.
Overview
Overview
The condition called witches' broom affects many woody plants such as trees and shrubs. It is caused by stress and presents itself as a deformed growth of twigs and branches that have a broom-like appearance. These symptoms can be seen on both deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs. This is not a disease in itself, but rather a symptom of other pests or diseases that may be harming the health of the tree or shrub.
Although these witches' broom growths are not very attractive, they pose no threat to the health of the tree or shrub. There is also no cure or treatment to reverse them.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
A dense cluster of shortened branches or twigs that grow from a central point on the tree. This growth resembles a broom.
Some trees may only have one witches' broom growth, while others may have several.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Witches' broom is a symptom rather than a disease in itself. It has no singular cause. It could be the result of the plant experiencing stress from a pest, disease damage, or be caused by the growth of a parasitic plant.
A witches' broom could be an indication that the plant has an infestation of pests such as aphids, mites, or nematodes. Or, it could mean that the tree or shrub is infected by a fungus, bacteria, or virus. Additionally, parasitic plants like mistletoe can cause the host tree to develop such growths.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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distribution

Distribution of Laurel sumac

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Habitat of Laurel sumac

Coastal sage scrub, chaparral, oak woodland formations
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Laurel sumac

Laurel sumac is native to the chaparral regions of southwestern North America. Although originating from these Mediterranean-type climates, its ability to adapt to various conditions has led to laurel sumac being cultivated in similar environments beyond its original range. Today, laurel sumac can be found in both native and introduced habitats where climates parallel its indigenous ecosystem.
distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
habit
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More Info on Laurel Sumac Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
Laurel sumac thrives exceptionally well when subjected to unabated sunlight throughout the day. Its origin habitat is conducive with a lot of sunlight, positively influencing its growth. During all stages of growth, it requires a similar level of light exposure. Too little sun can cause stunted growth; excessive sun doesn't have a detrimental effect.
Best Sunlight Practices
Transplant
3-6 feet
The optimal transplanting time for laurel sumac falls within S1-S3 season owing to the plant's favorable growth response. It prefers well-drained, sunny locations. Be cautious while handling roots to avoid damage, ensuring a successful resettlement. Enjoy your gardening!
Transplant Techniques
Feng shui direction
Northeast
The laurel sumac is suitably aligned with the principles of Feng Shui, promoting balance and tranquility. When placed in a Northeast-facing area, it can potentially cultivate a sense of wisdom and inner growth due to the strong Earth energy associated with this direction. However, individual experiences with Feng Shui can vary, thus such effects may differ from person to person.
Fengshui Details
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Plants Related to Laurel sumac

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Switchgrass
Switchgrass
Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) is a flowering perennial grass native to North America. Planting switchgrass is becoming more popular recently because the plant can sequester carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and contribute to preventing further global warming. In addition, switchgrass can be used in industrial contexts to produce chemicals like ethanol and butanol.
Sweetgrass
Sweetgrass
Sweetgrass grows in saltwater marshes and along the shores of lakes and rivers of New England. It is considered sacred to many Native American tribes who use it for incense, perfume, and to weave baskets. Sweetgrass smells like vanilla when crushed. It has tall long green stems and small flowers.
Spiderwort
Spiderwort
Spiderwort (Tradescantia sillamontana 'Variegata') is a rare, variegated succulent species cultivated in pots for ornamental purposes. Spiderwort is a low-growing evergreen succulent that grows best in well-drained, gritty soil. This species originates in Mexico. It can grow in sun or shade, and has low watering requirements.
Silver maple
Silver maple
Silver maple (Acer saccharinum) is one of the most common deciduous trees in the United States and southeast Canada. It is a 15 to 25 m tall, fast-growing, sun-loving tree. Its leaves have deeper angular notches between the five lobes than many other maple species. Silver maple is often found along waterways and wetlands, earning it an alternative name 'Water maple'.
Sea stock
Sea stock
Sea stock (Matthiola sinuata) is a short-lived member of the cabbage family that grows on seashores and sand dunes. Sea stock is found in continental Europe, but is rare in the British Isles and now extinct in Ireland and Scotland. The genus name of Matthiola sinuata honors Pietro Andrea Mattioli, a 16th-century Italian naturalist.
Rose of jericho
Rose of jericho
A plant with great resistance to desiccation, its branches have the property of contracting with dryness, remaining closed and dry for many years, reopening with moisture or contact with water, regaining all its freshness and beauty. After the rainy season, the plant dries up, dropping leaves and curling branches into a tight ball, and "hibernates".
Cape jasmine
Cape jasmine
Gardenia jasminoides is an evergreen shrub with unique, glossy evergreen leaves and stunning flowers. The sophisticated, matte white flowers are often used in bouquets. The exceptional beauty of this ornamental plant has made it a popular and highly appreciated plant amongst gardeners and horticulturalists.
Golden pothos
Golden pothos
The golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular houseplant that is commonly seen in Australia, Asia, and the West Indies. It goes by many nicknames, including "devil's ivy", because it is so hard to kill and can even grow in low light conditions. Golden pothos has poisonous sap, so it should be kept away from pets and children.
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Related Plants
Laurel sumac
Laurel sumac
Laurel sumac
Laurel sumac
Laurel sumac
Laurel sumac
Laurel sumac
Malosma laurina
The laurel sumac is a small tree with taco shell-shaped leaves. If flattened, the leaves resemble the shape of laurel leaves. A glowing reddish color is visible on the plant's stems, veins of its leaves, and the edges of the leaves all year round. Citrus growers use the laurel sumac's presence to indicate frost-free sites that have the potential to support citrus orchards.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
9 to 11
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Care Guide for Laurel sumac

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Questions About Laurel sumac

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Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Laurel sumac?
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What should I do if I water my Laurel sumac too much or too little?
more
How often should I water my Laurel sumac?
more
How much water does my Laurel sumac need?
more
How can I tell if i'm watering my Laurel sumac enough?
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How can I water my Laurel sumac at different growth stages?
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How can I water my Laurel sumac through the seasons?
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What's the difference between watering my Laurel sumac indoors vs outdoors?
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Key Facts About Laurel sumac

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Attributes of Laurel sumac

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Tree
Planting Time
Spring
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer
Harvest Time
All year around
Plant Height
3 m to 5 m
Spread
3 m to 4.5 m
Leaf Color
Green
Red
Bronze
Flower Size
2.5 cm
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Green
Fruit Color
Red
White
Stem Color
Red
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃
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Symbolism

Ambition, Success, Renown

Scientific Classification of Laurel sumac

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Laurel sumac

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Common issues for Laurel sumac based on 10 million real cases
Flower withering
Flower withering Flower withering Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
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Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Witches' broom
Witches' broom Witches' broom Witches' broom
Clumping disease causes a large number of thin branches to grow from a single bud site.
Solutions: There is currently no cure to reverse the odd growth pattern of a witches' broom once it has formed. While these growths may be unsightly, they don't pose any serious threat to plants on their own. However, their underlying cause may weaken the plant, so it's best to check for other pest and disease problems and treating those. The broom can be trimmed away by pruning several inches below the growth. Without treating the true cause, however, it's common for a new witches' broom to grow where one has previously been removed.
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Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
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Flower withering
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
  • Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
  • Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
  • Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
  • Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
  • Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
  • Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Witches' broom
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Witches' broom
Clumping disease causes a large number of thin branches to grow from a single bud site.
Overview
Overview
The condition called witches' broom affects many woody plants such as trees and shrubs. It is caused by stress and presents itself as a deformed growth of twigs and branches that have a broom-like appearance. These symptoms can be seen on both deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs. This is not a disease in itself, but rather a symptom of other pests or diseases that may be harming the health of the tree or shrub.
Although these witches' broom growths are not very attractive, they pose no threat to the health of the tree or shrub. There is also no cure or treatment to reverse them.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
A dense cluster of shortened branches or twigs that grow from a central point on the tree. This growth resembles a broom.
Some trees may only have one witches' broom growth, while others may have several.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Witches' broom is a symptom rather than a disease in itself. It has no singular cause. It could be the result of the plant experiencing stress from a pest, disease damage, or be caused by the growth of a parasitic plant.
A witches' broom could be an indication that the plant has an infestation of pests such as aphids, mites, or nematodes. Or, it could mean that the tree or shrub is infected by a fungus, bacteria, or virus. Additionally, parasitic plants like mistletoe can cause the host tree to develop such growths.
Solutions
Solutions
There is currently no cure to reverse the odd growth pattern of a witches' broom once it has formed. While these growths may be unsightly, they don't pose any serious threat to plants on their own. However, their underlying cause may weaken the plant, so it's best to check for other pest and disease problems and treating those.
The broom can be trimmed away by pruning several inches below the growth. Without treating the true cause, however, it's common for a new witches' broom to grow where one has previously been removed.
Prevention
Prevention
The best way to prevent the formation of a witches' broom is to keep the plant as healthy as possible. Monitor it frequently for signs of disease and insect damage, and use appropriate sprays to control outbreaks as they occur.
  1. Use a fungicide: Regularly spraying a copper fungicide may reduce the ability of fungi to infect the plant, and prevent a witches' broom.
  2. Remove debris. Removing dead plant material from around plants will eliminate places fungal spores can hide.
  3. Control insect damage: Inspect plant leaves for signs of mites and aphids. Spray pesticides (organic or otherwise) or introduce natural predators such as ladybugs.
  4. Prune out compromised branches: Remove stressed portions of plants to prevent witches' broom formation on weak branches.
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Aged yellow and dry
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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distribution

Distribution of Laurel sumac

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Habitat of Laurel sumac

Coastal sage scrub, chaparral, oak woodland formations
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Laurel sumac

Laurel sumac is native to the chaparral regions of southwestern North America. Although originating from these Mediterranean-type climates, its ability to adapt to various conditions has led to laurel sumac being cultivated in similar environments beyond its original range. Today, laurel sumac can be found in both native and introduced habitats where climates parallel its indigenous ecosystem.
distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Laurel Sumac Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
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Plants Related to Laurel sumac

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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Laurel sumac thrives exceptionally well when subjected to unabated sunlight throughout the day. Its origin habitat is conducive with a lot of sunlight, positively influencing its growth. During all stages of growth, it requires a similar level of light exposure. Too little sun can cause stunted growth; excessive sun doesn't have a detrimental effect.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Laurel sumac thrives in full sunlight but is sensitive to heat. As a plant commonly grown outdoors with abundant sunlight, it may exhibit subtle symptoms of light deficiency when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting.
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Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Laurel sumac may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Laurel sumac enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Laurel sumac thrives in full sun exposure but is sensitive to heat. Although sunburn symptoms occasionally occur, they are unable to withstand intense sunlight in high-temperature environments.
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Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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