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Wild crapemyrtle
Wild crapemyrtle
Wild crapemyrtle
Wild crapemyrtle
Wild crapemyrtle
Wild crapemyrtle
Add to My Garden
Wild crapemyrtle
Malpighia glabra
Also known as : Long key locustberry, Maricao cimarron
Wild crapemyrtle (Malpighia glabra) is a tropical shrub that can grow up to 3 m tall. From spring to fall it periodically produces clusters of pale pink flowers that mature into bright red berries. These berries are very tart but are high in vitamin C and are sometimes processed into preserves.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
10 to 12
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care guide

Care Guide for Wild crapemyrtle

Sand, Loam, Neutral
Sunlight
Sunlight
See Details
Full sun, Partial sun
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
See Details
10 to 12
Planting Time
Planting Time
See Details
Mid spring, Late spring, Early summer
Harvest Time
Harvest Time
See Details
Summer, Early fall, Mid fall
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Wild crapemyrtle
Water
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
10 to 12
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Wild crapemyrtle
Water
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
10 to 12
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Wild crapemyrtle
Water
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
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Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
10 to 12
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Questions About Wild crapemyrtle

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Wild crapemyrtle?
Your Wild crapemyrtle will not be too picky about how you choose to water it. As such, you can use just about any common watering tool to moisten this plant’s soil. Watering cans, hoses, and even cups will work just fine when it is time to water your Wild crapemyrtle. Regardless of which watering tool you use, you should typically apply the water directly to the soil. In doing so, you should ensure that you moisten all soil areas equally to give all parts of the root system the water it needs. It can help to use filtered water, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to plants. It is also beneficial to use water that is at or slightly above room temperature, as colder or hotter water can be somewhat shocking to the Wild crapemyrtle. However, the Wild crapemyrtle usually responds well to any kind of water you give it.
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What should I do if I water my Wild crapemyrtle too much or too little?
For outdoor plants, especially newly planted plants or plant seedlings, they can be prone to lack of watering. Remember that you need to keep watering enough for a few months when the tree is small or just planted. This is because once the roots are established, Wild crapemyrtle can rely on rain most of the time.
When your Wild crapemyrtle is planted in pots, overwatering is often more likely to.When you accidentally overwater your Wild crapemyrtle, you should be prepared to remedy the situation immediately. First, you should stop watering your plant right away to minimize the effect of your overwatering. After, you should consider removing your Wild crapemyrtle from its pot to inspect its roots. If you find that none of the roots have developed root rot, it may be permissible to return your plant to its container. If you do discover signs of root rot, then you should trim away any roots that have been affected. You may also want to apply a fungicide to prevent further damage. Lastly, you should repot your Wild crapemyrtle in soil that is well-draining. In the case of an underwatered Wild crapemyrtle, simply water this plant more frequently.
Underwatering is often an easy fix. If you underwater, the plant's leaves will tend to droop and dry out and fall off, and the leaves will quickly return to fullness after sufficient watering. Please correct your watering frequency as soon as underwatering occurs.
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How often should I water my Wild crapemyrtle?
Most plants that grow naturally outdoors can be allowed to grow normally with rainfall. If your area lacks rainfall, consider giving your plants adequate watering every 2 weeks during the spring and fall. More frequent watering is needed in summer. In winter, when growth becomes slower and plants need less water, water more sparingly. Throughout the winter, you may not give it additional watering at all. If your Wild crapemyrtle is young or newly planted, then you should water more frequently to help it establish, and mature and grow up to have more adaptable and drought tolerant plants.
For potted plants, there are two main ways that you can determine how often to water your Wild crapemyrtle. The first way is to set a predetermined watering schedule. If you choose this route, you should plan to water this plant about once every week or once every other week. However, this approach may not always work as it does not consider the unique conditions of the growing environment for your Wild crapemyrtle .
Your watering frequency can also change depending on the season. For instance, a predetermined watering schedule will likely not suffice during summer when this plant's water needs are highest. An alternative route is to set your watering frequency based on soil moisture. Typically, it is best to wait until the first two to four inches of soil, usually ⅓ to ½ depth of the pots, have dried out entirely before you give more water.
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How much water does my Wild crapemyrtle need?
When it comes time to water your Wild crapemyrtle, you may be surprised to find that this plant does not always need a high volume of water. Instead, if only a few inches of soil have dried since your last watering, you can support healthy growth in the Wild crapemyrtle by giving it about five to ten ounces of water every time you water. You can also decide your water volume based on soil moisture. As mentioned above, you should note how many inches of soil have dried out between waterings. A surefire way to make sure your Wild crapemyrtle gets the moisture it needs is to supply enough water to moisten all the soil layers that became dry since the last time you watered. If more than half of the soil has become dry, you should consider giving more water than usual. In those cases, continue adding water until you see excess water draining from your pot’s drainage holes.
If your Wild crapemyrtle is planted in an area that gets plenty of rain outdoors, it may not need additional watering. When the Wild crapemyrtle is young or just getting established, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As it continues to grow and establish, it can survive entirely on rainwater and only when the weather is hot and there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving your Wild crapemyrtle a full watering to prevent them from suffering stress.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Wild crapemyrtle enough?
Overwatering is a far more common problem for the Wild crapemyrtle, and there are several signs you should look for when this occurs. Generally, an overwatered Wild crapemyrtle will have yellowing leaves and may even drop some leaves. Also, overwatering can cause the overall structure of your plant to shrivel and may also promote root rot. On the other hand, an underwatered Wild crapemyrtle will also begin to wilt. It may also display leaves that are brown or brittle to the touch. Whether you see signs of overwatering or underwatering, you should be prepared to intervene and restore the health of your Wild crapemyrtle.
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How can I water my Wild crapemyrtle at different growth stages?
When the Wild crapemyrtle is very young, such as when it is in a seedling stage, you will need to give it more water than you would if it were at a mature age. During the early stages of this plant’s life, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist to encourage root development. The same is true for any Wild crapemyrtle that you have transplanted to a new growing location. Also, the Wild crapemyrtle can develop showy flowers and fruits when you give them the correct care. If your Wild crapemyrtle is in a flowering or fruiting phase, you will likely need to give a bit more water than you usually would to support these plant structures.
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How can I water my Wild crapemyrtle through the seasons?
The seasonal changes will affect how often you water your Wild crapemyrtle. Mainly, during the hottest summer months, you will likely need to increase how much you water this plant, especially if it grows in an area that receives ample sunlight. Strong summer sunlight can cause soil to dry out much faster than usual, meaning that you’ll need to water more frequently. By contrast, your Wild crapemyrtle will need much less water during the winter, as it will not be in an active growing phase. During winter, you can get by with watering once every 2 to 3 weeks or sometimes not at all. For those growing this plant indoors, you should be somewhat wary of appliances such as air conditioners, which can cause your plant to dry out more quickly, which also calls for more frequent watering.
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What's the difference between watering my Wild crapemyrtle indoors vs outdoors?
In some cases, your Wild crapemyrtle may not need any supplemental watering when it grows outside and will survive on rainwater alone. However, if you live in an area of little to no rain, you should water this plant about every two weeks. If you belong to the group of people who live out of this plant's natural hardiness zone, you should grow it indoors. In an indoor setting, you should monitor your plant's soil as it can dry out more quickly when it is in a container or when it is exposed to HVAC units such as air conditioners. Those drying factors will lead you to water this plant a bit more often than if you grew it outdoors.
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More About How-Tos

Explore 5 of plant how-tos on Feng shui direction, Water, Lighting, Temperature, Transplant, etc.
Feng shui direction
West
The wild crapemyrtle is subtly cherished in Feng Shui, known to gently harmonize one's energy. Its suitability for the West direction is promising, considering how West often symbolizes metal and the wild crapemyrtle's primary element is understood to be metal. However, interpretation is subjective, varying somewhat across different schools of Feng Shui.
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Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Lighting
Full sun
Wild crapemyrtle thrives when it can soak in plenty of light throughout the day. In a setting with a constant influx of light, these plants will grow robust and healthy. When light is not abundant, wild crapemyrtle can adapt, but excessive shade may hamper growth, possibly leading to deleterious effects.
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Temperature
5 43 ℃
Wild crapemyrtle is native to warm regions, requiring a temperature range of 68 to 100.4 °F (20 to 38 ℃). It prefers warmer environments and may require temperature adjustment or protection in cooler seasons.
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Transplant
3-5 feet
The ideal time to transplant wild crapemyrtle is during S1-S2, a period when the plant is dormant, boosting survival rate post-transplant. Choose a location with full sun and well-drained soil for best growth. Extra tip: always water generously after transplanting to minimize shock.
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pests

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Wild crapemyrtle based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Anthracnose
Anthracnose Anthracnose
Anthracnose
Anthracnose causes grey-brown spots with black margins on leaves and stems.
Solutions: For less serious cases when only a few leaves are affected, complete the following: Prune affected leaves. Using pruning shears, remove leaves that have spots. Dispose of these leaves to avoid spreading the disease to other plants. Clear debris. To stop the spread of disease, remove debris and weeds from around plants. For serious cases when many leaves are infected with large splotches: Apply a fungicide. Fungicides won't cure current infections, but they will prevent anthracnose from spreading to uninfected tissue. Apply a fungicide before a dry period following product instructions. Products containing copper diammonia diacetate are most likely to be effective.
Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Plant dried up
Plant dried up Plant dried up
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
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Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Anthracnose
plant poor
Anthracnose
Anthracnose causes grey-brown spots with black margins on leaves and stems.
Overview
Overview
Anthracnose is a group of fungal diseases that affects foliage, twigs, and stems. It can affect a wide variety of plants including trees, shrubs, vegetables, grasses, and flowers and is most likely to occur in cool, wet conditions. It often occurs in the spring when rain splashes on overwintering fungi.
Some varieties of plants are bred to be resistant to anthracnose. If plants are not resistant, they can become infected year after year. Plants can also recover from infection only to be reinfected later that year.
In most cases, anthracnose only causes minor damage. However, young plants are susceptible to major damage. In the worst-case scenarios, this disease can cause major defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Plant leaves will show gray or brown blotches that may be surrounded by black edges. Blotches may be only one small spot or many spots that cover an entire leaf. If these symptoms progress, leaves may drop prematurely.
Anthracnose can also cause small lesions on twigs and stems. These often appear as brown, gray, or orange blisters. If left untreated, twigs may drop.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Anthracnose is caused by one of several possible fungi. These pathogens overwinter on plant debris. When water hits these fungi in the spring, spores release and land on plant tissue. When the spores germinate on leaf or twig tissue, they cause anthracnose symptoms.
These fungi need moist conditions to live. Therefore, they will not be a problem in dry conditions.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases when only a few leaves are affected, complete the following:
  • Prune affected leaves. Using pruning shears, remove leaves that have spots. Dispose of these leaves to avoid spreading the disease to other plants.
  • Clear debris. To stop the spread of disease, remove debris and weeds from around plants.
For serious cases when many leaves are infected with large splotches:
  • Apply a fungicide. Fungicides won't cure current infections, but they will prevent anthracnose from spreading to uninfected tissue. Apply a fungicide before a dry period following product instructions. Products containing copper diammonia diacetate are most likely to be effective.
Prevention
Prevention
Since anthracnose is difficult to treat once it appears, it's important to prevent it from infecting your plants.
  • Remove debris. Clear all old plant material and weeds from under and around plants in the fall. This material can harbor anthracnose spores that will later infect plants.
  • Select resistant varieties. When adding new plants, choose varieties that are resistant to anthracnose.
  • Increase airflow. Anthracnose thrives in wet conditions, so space plants far enough apart to allow for good airflow.
  • Avoid overhead irrigation. To keep plant tissue dry, avoid using overhead irrigation. Instead, water at the base of plants or install drip irrigation.
  • Use a preventative fungicide. If there is a reason to suspect future anthracnose outbreaks, apply a fungicide in the early spring.
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Leaf rot
plant poor
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
  2. Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
  3. Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
  4. Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
  5. Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
  6. Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
  7. Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
  8. Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Plant dried up
plant poor
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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distribution

Distribution Map

Habitat

Thickets, brushland, palm groves
distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
habit
plant_info

More Info

Plant Type
Plant Type
Tree, Shrub
Flower Color
Flower Color
Pink
White
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer, Fall, Early winter
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All year around
Garden Usage
Succulent plants are popular for their low maintenance, cost, and different but interesting shapes. As potted plants, they can be planted in window sills or office tables for decoration. They can also be planted in well-drained and ventilated corners outdoors to form a unique tropical landscape. They don't need much care and are a perfect choice for busy people.
Manatu
Manatu
Within its native habitat, the manatu tree can be found in coastal and lower montane areas. It is commonly used in landscaping and ornamental gardening. The tree is deciduous and drops its leaves during the winter, which is not something common in New Zealand.
Bloom Time
Spring
Lindheimer's beeblossom
Lindheimer's beeblossom
Lindheimer's beeblossom (Oenothera lindheimeri) is a perennial plant native to the Louisiana and Texas regions of the United States. The Latin name for this species was formerly Gaura lindheimeri. Lindheimer's beeblossom is commonly grown as an ornamental plant in pots or flower beds. The plant grows well in full sunlight and can withstand drought conditions.
Bloom Time
Spring, summer, autumn
Garden Usage
The genus Oenothera is characterized by sturdy plants that can grow in various conditions, commonly used for ornamental and landscaping purposes. They originate from the Americas and can be found anywhere from temperate to subtropical regions. Their size varies according to the species, and can be anywhere between 10 cm and 3 m., Their flowers are usually yellow, while different species have white, pink, red, or purple flowers. The flowering period lasts from the end of the spring to the end of the summer, and flowers bloom in the evening. The most popular species used in gardening is Oenothera biennis.
Lewis flax
Lewis flax
Lewis flax (Linum lewisii) is a perennial that will grow from 61 to 91 cm tall and 46 to 61 cm wide. Lewis flax blossoms only last a day but bloom profusely throughout the season. This plant is heat and drought tolerant.
Bloom Time
Spring, summer
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Wild crapemyrtle
Wild crapemyrtle
Wild crapemyrtle
Wild crapemyrtle
Wild crapemyrtle
Wild crapemyrtle
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Wild crapemyrtle
Malpighia glabra
Also known as: Long key locustberry, Maricao cimarron
Wild crapemyrtle (Malpighia glabra) is a tropical shrub that can grow up to 3 m tall. From spring to fall it periodically produces clusters of pale pink flowers that mature into bright red berries. These berries are very tart but are high in vitamin C and are sometimes processed into preserves.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
10 to 12
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Care Guide for Wild crapemyrtle

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Questions About Wild crapemyrtle

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
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What is the best way to water my Wild crapemyrtle?
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pests

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Wild crapemyrtle based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot  Brown spot  Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Anthracnose
Anthracnose  Anthracnose  Anthracnose
Anthracnose causes grey-brown spots with black margins on leaves and stems.
Solutions: For less serious cases when only a few leaves are affected, complete the following: Prune affected leaves. Using pruning shears, remove leaves that have spots. Dispose of these leaves to avoid spreading the disease to other plants. Clear debris. To stop the spread of disease, remove debris and weeds from around plants. For serious cases when many leaves are infected with large splotches: Apply a fungicide. Fungicides won't cure current infections, but they will prevent anthracnose from spreading to uninfected tissue. Apply a fungicide before a dry period following product instructions. Products containing copper diammonia diacetate are most likely to be effective.
Learn More more
Leaf rot
Leaf rot  Leaf rot  Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
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Plant dried up
Plant dried up  Plant dried up  Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Anthracnose
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Anthracnose
Anthracnose causes grey-brown spots with black margins on leaves and stems.
Overview
Overview
Anthracnose is a group of fungal diseases that affects foliage, twigs, and stems. It can affect a wide variety of plants including trees, shrubs, vegetables, grasses, and flowers and is most likely to occur in cool, wet conditions. It often occurs in the spring when rain splashes on overwintering fungi.
Some varieties of plants are bred to be resistant to anthracnose. If plants are not resistant, they can become infected year after year. Plants can also recover from infection only to be reinfected later that year.
In most cases, anthracnose only causes minor damage. However, young plants are susceptible to major damage. In the worst-case scenarios, this disease can cause major defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Plant leaves will show gray or brown blotches that may be surrounded by black edges. Blotches may be only one small spot or many spots that cover an entire leaf. If these symptoms progress, leaves may drop prematurely.
Anthracnose can also cause small lesions on twigs and stems. These often appear as brown, gray, or orange blisters. If left untreated, twigs may drop.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Anthracnose is caused by one of several possible fungi. These pathogens overwinter on plant debris. When water hits these fungi in the spring, spores release and land on plant tissue. When the spores germinate on leaf or twig tissue, they cause anthracnose symptoms.
These fungi need moist conditions to live. Therefore, they will not be a problem in dry conditions.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases when only a few leaves are affected, complete the following:
  • Prune affected leaves. Using pruning shears, remove leaves that have spots. Dispose of these leaves to avoid spreading the disease to other plants.
  • Clear debris. To stop the spread of disease, remove debris and weeds from around plants.
For serious cases when many leaves are infected with large splotches:
  • Apply a fungicide. Fungicides won't cure current infections, but they will prevent anthracnose from spreading to uninfected tissue. Apply a fungicide before a dry period following product instructions. Products containing copper diammonia diacetate are most likely to be effective.
Prevention
Prevention
Since anthracnose is difficult to treat once it appears, it's important to prevent it from infecting your plants.
  • Remove debris. Clear all old plant material and weeds from under and around plants in the fall. This material can harbor anthracnose spores that will later infect plants.
  • Select resistant varieties. When adding new plants, choose varieties that are resistant to anthracnose.
  • Increase airflow. Anthracnose thrives in wet conditions, so space plants far enough apart to allow for good airflow.
  • Avoid overhead irrigation. To keep plant tissue dry, avoid using overhead irrigation. Instead, water at the base of plants or install drip irrigation.
  • Use a preventative fungicide. If there is a reason to suspect future anthracnose outbreaks, apply a fungicide in the early spring.
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Leaf rot
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
  2. Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
  3. Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
  4. Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
  5. Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
  6. Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
  7. Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
  8. Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Plant dried up
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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distribution

Distribution Map

Habitat

Thickets, brushland, palm groves

Map

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Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info

Plant Type
Plant Type
Tree, Shrub
Flower Color
Flower Color
Pink
White
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer, Fall, Early winter
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Water
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How Often Should I Water Wild Crapemyrtle?
Every 1-2 weeks
Watering Frequency
Smart Seasonal Watering
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Just like people, each plant has its own preferences and needs. Devote time to understanding your plants so you can nurture them properly. Observe your plants attentively, learning from their growth patterns, and becoming more in tune with their needs as you grow together. Keep a watchful eye on new plants and seedlings, as they are sensitive to both overwatering and underwatering. Shower them with gentle love and attention, fostering their growth and strength. Let the rhythm of your local climate guide your watering habits, adapting your schedule to the changing weather and the needs of your plants.
Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Wild crapemyrtle is more susceptible to developing disease symptoms when overwatered because it prefers a soil environment with moderate humidity. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, root rot, leaf drop...
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Yellowing leaves
When plants receive too much water, the roots become oxygen deprived and the bottom leaves of the plant gradually turn yellow.
Root rot
Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Leaf drop
When plants are overwatered, they may shed their leaves as a response to stress, even if the leaves appear green and healthy.
Mold and mildew
Overwatered plants create a damp environment that can encourage the growth of mold and mildew on soil.
Increased susceptibility diseases
Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
Wild crapemyrtle is more susceptible to plant health issues when lacking watering, as it can only tolerate short periods of drought. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, yellowing leaves, leaf drop...
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Wilting
Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Root damage
Prolonged underwatering can cause root damage, making it difficult for the plant to absorb water even when it is available.
Dry stems
Due to insufficient water, plant stems may become dry or brittle, making the branches easy to break.
Dying plant
If underwatering continues for an extended period, the plant may ultimately die as a result of severe water stress and an inability to carry out essential functions.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.
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Lighting
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Outdoor
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Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Wild crapemyrtle thrives when it can soak in plenty of light throughout the day. In a setting with a constant influx of light, these plants will grow robust and healthy. When light is not abundant, wild crapemyrtle can adapt, but excessive shade may hamper growth, possibly leading to deleterious effects.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Wild crapemyrtle thrives in full sunlight but can tolerate partial shade. However, when cultivated indoors during winter, it's often placed in rooms with insufficient lighting, leading to easily noticeable symptoms of light deficiency.
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Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Wild crapemyrtle may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Wild crapemyrtle enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Wild crapemyrtle thrives in full sun exposure but can also tolerate partial shade. They have a remarkable resilience to intense sunlight, and symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible.
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Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Wild crapemyrtle is native to warm regions, requiring a temperature range of 68 to 100.4 °F (20 to 38 ℃). It prefers warmer environments and may require temperature adjustment or protection in cooler seasons.
Regional wintering strategies
Wild crapemyrtle is extremely heat-loving, and any cold temperatures can cause harm to it. In the autumn, it is recommended to bring outdoor-grown Wild crapemyrtle indoors and place it near a bright window, but it should be kept at a certain distance from heaters. Maintaining temperatures above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} during winter is beneficial for plant growth. Any temperatures approaching {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min} are detrimental to the plant.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Wild crapemyrtle prefers warm temperatures and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves may lighten in color. After frost damage, the color gradually turns brown or black, and symptoms such as wilting and drooping may occur.
Solutions
Trim off the frost-damaged parts. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment for cold protection. Choose a spot near a south-facing window to place the plant, ensuring ample sunlight. Additionally, avoid placing the plant near heaters or air conditioning vents to prevent excessive dryness in the air.
High Temperature
During summer, Wild crapemyrtle should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the color of the leaves becomes lighter, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Wild Crapemyrtle?
The ideal time to transplant wild crapemyrtle is during S1-S2, a period when the plant is dormant, boosting survival rate post-transplant. Choose a location with full sun and well-drained soil for best growth. Extra tip: always water generously after transplanting to minimize shock.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Wild Crapemyrtle?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Wild Crapemyrtle?
The ideal season to transplant wild crapemyrtle is between late autumn and early spring (S1-S2). This timeframe helps the plant establish new roots before the growing season kicks off. Transplanting wild crapemyrtle during the dormant season aids in minimizing transplant shock, promoting a healthier start for your plant. Remember, a well-timed transplant for wild crapemyrtle ensures better growth and flowering!
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Wild Crapemyrtle Plants?
Firstly, ensure wild crapemyrtle has ample room to grow. Space each plant around 3-5 feet (approximately 0.9-1.5 meters) apart. This will ensure they have enough space to grow without overcrowding, resulting in healthier and more beautiful plants.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Wild Crapemyrtle Transplanting?
Delve into soil preparation next. Wild crapemyrtle loves well-drained, loamy to sandy soil. Enrich the soil with a base of organic compost to provide nutrients. A slow-release balanced fertilizer can be mixed in at planting time to promote strong growth.
Where Should You Relocate Your Wild Crapemyrtle?
Finally, location matters for wild crapemyrtle. Choose a spot that receives full sun exposure, meaning at least six hours of sunlight per day. A sunny location helps wild crapemyrtle produce its beautiful flowers and retains its vibrant foliage color.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Wild Crapemyrtle?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while dealing with soil and handling the wild crapemyrtle.
Shovel
A rounded or pointed-blade shovel will work for digging the hole for the wild crapemyrtle and for removing it from its current location.
Hand Trowel
Useful for refining the hole for your plant and handling smaller roots.
Gardening Pruning Shears
To prune back any roots that are damaged during the transplant process.
Watering Can or Hose
To water the plant after transplanting.
How Do You Remove Wild Crapemyrtle from the Soil?
Step1 Preparation

After having selected the perfect spot, dig a hole that's twice as wide and just as deep as the wild crapemyrtle's root ball. Make sure that the plant will be at the same soil level as in its previous location.

Step2 Placement

Place the wild crapemyrtle in this hole. Spread out the roots to ensure healthy growth.

Step3 Backfill

Gently backfill the hole, firming the soil around the root ball and eliminating any air pockets.

Step4 Watering

Generously water the wild crapemyrtle after transplanting to settle the soil. Follow this up with regular watering, particularly in the first few weeks as the plant gets accustomed to its new environment.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Wild Crapemyrtle
Step1 Preparation
After having selected the perfect spot, dig a hole that's twice as wide and just as deep as the wild crapemyrtle's root ball. Make sure that the plant will be at the same soil level as in its previous location.
Step2 Placement
Place the wild crapemyrtle in this hole. Spread out the roots to ensure healthy growth.
Step3 Backfill
Gently backfill the hole, firming the soil around the root ball and eliminating any air pockets.
Step4 Watering
Generously water the wild crapemyrtle after transplanting to settle the soil. Follow this up with regular watering, particularly in the first few weeks as the plant gets accustomed to its new environment.
How Do You Care For Wild Crapemyrtle After Transplanting?
Mulching
After transplanting, apply a layer of organic mulch around the wild crapemyrtle but not touching the stem. The mulch will help retain moisture and reduce competition from weeds.
Pruning
In the initial weeks, focus on establishing the roots instead of promoting growth. So if the wild crapemyrtle begins producing flowers or fruits, prune them back to conserve the plant's energy.
Monitoring
Regularly check the wild crapemyrtle for signs of stress like wilting, yellowing, or dropped leaves. If you spot these, increase water and check for pests or diseases.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Wild Crapemyrtle Transplantation.
When's the ideal time to transplant wild crapemyrtle?
Best transplanting season for wild crapemyrtle spans between early spring (S1) to late spring (S2). Waiting until frost subsides is key.
What's the right depth for planting wild crapemyrtle after their transplantation?
Aim to plant wild crapemyrtle at the same depth they were growing at their previous location. Typically, it's about 10 inches (25 cm).
How far apart should I space wild crapemyrtle when transplanting?
To encourage healthy growth, maintain a spacing of approximately 3-5 feet (90-150 cm) between each wild crapemyrtle.
Do I need to water wild crapemyrtle right after transplanting?
Absolutely! After transplanting wild crapemyrtle, water it generously. It helps to settle the soil around the roots.
Should I prune wild crapemyrtle before transplanting?
Pruning before transplanting isn't necessary, but selectively removing any damaged or diseased branches could help wild crapemyrtle focus on root growth.
What are some symptoms of transplant shock in wild crapemyrtle?
Transplant shock in wild crapemyrtle may manifest as wilting leaves, leaf drop, or yellowing. Maintain consistent care and monitor conditions closely.
How should I prepare the ground for wild crapemyrtle transplantation?
Ensure a well-draining soil enriched with organic matter. Also, prepare a hole twice the root ball's width for wild crapemyrtle.
What if wild crapemyrtle doesn't seem to grow after transplanting?
Wild crapemyrtle might take time to establish after transplantation. However, if there's no growth over a prolonged period, consult a horticultural expert.
Should I fertilize wild crapemyrtle right after transplanting?
No rush to fertilize right after transplanting. Give wild crapemyrtle time to adapt to the transplant, then consider a slow-release fertilizer.
When's the best time to transplant wild crapemyrtle seedlings?
Transplant wild crapemyrtle seedlings when they have 2-3 true leaves, typically 6-8 weeks after sowing. They're then ready for early to late spring transplant.
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