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Common swamp pitcher-plant
Common swamp pitcher-plant
Common swamp pitcher-plant
Common swamp pitcher-plant
Common swamp pitcher-plant
Common swamp pitcher-plant
Common swamp pitcher-plant
Nepenthes mirabilis
Common swamp pitcher-plant (Nepenthes mirabilis) is a carnivorous plant native to continental Southeast Asia and all major islands of the Malay Archipelago. This plant requires high humidity and high temperatures for optimal growth. “Mirabilis” comes from the Latin word for “wonderful.”
Water
Water
Twice per week
Sunlight
Sunlight
Partial sun
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care guide

Care Guide for Common swamp pitcher-plant

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Watering Care
Watering Care
Average water needs, watering when the top 3 cm of soil has dried out.
Details on Watering Care Watering Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilizing Care
The common swamp pitcher-plant doesn't usually need extra nutrients, as it gets most nutrients from deep soil and the insects it catches in its pitcher. Apply a small amount of orchid fertilizer, diluted to quarter strength, to the plant's soil along with waterings if you want to give it some extra nutrients. Overfertilizing the soil can cause the plant to be severely underdeveloped.
Details on Fertilizing Care Fertilizing Care
Soil Care
Soil Care
Acidic, Slightly acidic
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
Ideal Lighting
Ideal Lighting
Partial sun, Full sun, Full shade
Details on Sunlight Requirements Ideal Lighting
Ideal Temperature
Ideal Temperature
10 to 11
Details on Temperature Ideal Temperature
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Common swamp pitcher-plant
Water
Water
Twice per week
Sunlight
Sunlight
Partial sun
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
10 to 11
Planting Time
Planting Time
Winter
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Questions About Common swamp pitcher-plant

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Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
What’s the best method to water your Common swamp pitcher-plant?
One way to keep your Common swamp pitcher-plant adequately moistened is to grow it in a pot with good drainage holes and in a plastic dish or tray that will allow you to fill it to about a third to half an inch of water. This will naturally draw water from the pot to the roots as the soil dries.Don’t let the dish dry out completely and adjust how much you add based on how quickly the plant draws the water into its roots. Pots made from hardened clay called terra cotta are not suitable for growing the Common swamp pitcher-plant unless you place the pot inside a second, bigger pot. The terra cotta will allow water to seep through and filter out dissolved solids. Put the water only in the second, outer pot. The most important thing in watering your Common swamp pitcher-plant adequately is the mineral content of the water you use. Collect rainwater if you can for your Common swamp pitcher-plant. It is the safest of any water to use on plants. Distilled water and water from a reverse osmosis system are good alternatives. You can use purified water which also works but has some minerals in it but in a range the Common swamp pitcher-plant tolerate. Tap water with lower than 50 parts per million of total dissolved solids is safe. You can buy a meter to measure that for just a little money. You’ll want to fill your watering device 24 hours before you use it to give the chlorine a chance to off-gas from the water.
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What should I do if I water Common swamp pitcher-plant too much/too little?
Symptoms of an overwatered Common swamp pitcher-plant are brown spots forming on the undersides of leaves, white mold developing in the soil, and a general wilted look. The wilted look comes from the plant’s inability to draw water into the stem. Overwatering can cause root rot. If it’s rotted, and smells bad, you’ll want to remove the plant from its soil, rinse it with distilled water, cut away the rotted roots and affected leaves, rinse it again with distilled water, and replant in new soil. The leaves of an underwatered plant will become brittle. Cut away affected leaves, make sure the soil is damp, and mist the leaves. For underwatered Common swamp pitcher-plant, the plant will gradually recover by resuming watering as soon as possible, but due to root damage, yellow leaves will dry out in the short term.
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How often should I water my Common swamp pitcher-plant?
Tray method is the most common way of watering insectivorous plants. Potting Common swamp pitcher-plant in something with several drainage holes and placing that in a dish or tray filled about one-third with water will allow the plant to naturally draw water up as the soil dries. Add water promptly after the water level drops. Don’t let the dish dry out completely. This will give you a better sense of how often the plants are watered. The Common swamp pitcher-plant is native to humid environment, so you’ll need to strike the right balance between watering to the point of developing root rot and letting the soil dry out . During the active seasons – spring to autumn – don’t let the soil dry out. Water your Common swamp pitcher-plant 2-3 times per week in spring and fall, and more frequent watering in summer to keep the soil mosit. Common swamp pitcher-plant goes dormant when during the winter and early spring. If you care for one the same way that you care for it during its active season, you will likely kill it. You’ll need to cut back on the amount that you water it. Try letting some of the soil dry out as well as letting the water level in the tray dry out for a few days before adding more. If you live where the air is naturally dry, you may find that misting it above and beyond what you feed it is necessary to replicate its natural humid growing conditions. It works best to do this in the morning. Proper water spraying is very necessary for areas with a dry environment.
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How much water does my Common swamp pitcher-plant need?
Common swamp pitcher-plant normally lives in humid environment and are prized as houseplants because they one of a handful of carnivorous plants. Successfully keeping one alive will require that you need to replicate its native growing conditions. Maintaining high humidity levels is key to growing a thriving Common swamp pitcher-plant. The places these plants naturally thrive are high in humidity and low in nutrients. If you live in a place with naturally high humidity, you can grow them outdoors in a bog garden. A bog garden is a unique way to present plants that require lots of humidity together. Most people grow them as houseplants. Use a pot that will retain moisture to cut down on the number of waterings you need to do. Plastic is much better for this than terra cotta. A self-watering pot works best of all. As an insectivorous plant, the tray method is the most effective way to replenish water. Make sure that the water level in the tray pots spreads over the small hole at the bottom. Add water in time before the water level drops and the trays dry out. The amount of water added is the amount of water the plants need to keep the pots from drying out, so your Common swamp pitcher-plant can keep growing well.
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Should I water Common swamp pitcher-plant differently when I plant it indoors but not outdoors?
Common swamp pitcher-plant growns indoor will generally requires less water because they receive less sunlight. The more light it receives, the more water it’ll require to grow. Adequate light and water are the basis for keeping them healthy. But, you’ll still want to maintain a humid environment for an indoor plant. A good option for maintaining humid conditions is to grow them in a terrarium or as part of a plant display in an aquarium. The encased sides will keep vital humid air from escaping. Just make sure you maintain good circulation.
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Key Facts About Common swamp pitcher-plant

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Attributes of Common swamp pitcher-plant

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Herb, Vine
Planting Time
Winter
Bloom Time
Summer
Harvest Time
Summer, Fall, Winter
Plant Height
3 m
Spread
50 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Red
Flower Size
2 cm to 3 cm
Flower Color
Yellow
Green
Red
Brown
Gold
Fruit Color
Green
Dormancy
Non-dormant
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃

Usages

Garden Use
Common swamp pitcher-plant is a species of carnivorous plant favored by gardeners who live in tropical or subtropical regions and like showy, unusual-looking plants that are relatively tough and eat bugs. It needs a lot of water, and is most commonly planted in water gardens, heavily watered planters, and on the banks of ponds.
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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Common swamp pitcher-plant

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Common issues for Common swamp pitcher-plant based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Scars
Scars Scars
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
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Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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Scars
plant poor
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Leaf rot
plant poor
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
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distribution

Distribution of Common swamp pitcher-plant

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Habitat of Common swamp pitcher-plant

Freshwater
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Common swamp pitcher-plant

Common swamp pitcher-plant is native to Southeast Asia, where it thrives in diverse habitats from grasslands to forests. Its distribution also extends to Northern Australia and China. While predominantly found within its native range, common swamp pitcher-plant has been successfully cultivated in other regions, indicating its adaptability beyond its traditional bounds.
distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
habit
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More Info on Common Swamp Pitcher-plant Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Partial sun
Common swamp pitcher-plant thrives excellently in areas with dispersed light and can handle more intense light or even scanty light. Originating from an ecosystem with varied light exposure, it's adaptable to significant changes in lighting. Excessive or deficient light might influence growth but not fatal.
Best Sunlight Practices
Transplant
8-12 inches
Transplanting common swamp pitcher-plant thrives best when done during early to mid-spring or early to late winter seasons, as these periods promote strong root growth. Choose a location with ample sunlight and good drainage; be gentle when handling, ensuring minimal root damage for a successful transplant. Happy planting!
Transplant Techniques
Temperature
5 - 43 ℃
Common swamp pitcher-plant is native to humid climates with warm temperatures ranging from 20 to 38 ℃ (68 to 100.4 ℉). These plants thrive in hot and sunny conditions, such as those found in tropical regions. During the winter season, it is recommended to reduce the temperature to a range of 16 to 24 ℃ (60.8 to 75.2 ℉) to promote optimal growth.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Pruning
Spring, Summer, Autumn
This carnivorous plant, recognized for its distinctive hanging pitchers, requires strategic pruning to maintain health and vigor. Key techniques include removing dead or yellowing pitchers and leaves, as well as snipping off any diseased or damaged tendrils to prevent decay spread. The optimal pruning period extends from early spring to late fall, aligning with common swamp pitcher-plant's active growth phases. Pruning not only enhances the plant's appearance but also stimulates the growth of new, healthy pitchers, essential for its survival and insect-catching efficiency.
Pruning techniques
Propagation
Spring, Summer
The common swamp pitcher-plant can be propagated through cuttings, ideally during the warmer months of spring and summer. This process can be moderately difficult, but healthy root development and new growth indicate success. Consistent humidity is crucial for effective propagation.
Propagation Techniques
Overwinter
5 - 43 ℃
Common swamp pitcher-plant is native to tropical regions, accustomed to warmer conditions, surprisingly resistant to cooler temperatures if nighttime lows don't drop below 50°F. As a winter-borne tropical carnivore, it thrives in high humidity and indirect sunlight. For winter care, maintaining a consistent environment is crucial. Understandably, this involves sheltering the plant indoors, use of a humidifier, and frequent misting to simulate its natural humid habitat.
Winter Techniques
Pollination
Normal
The captivating common swamp pitcher-plant thrives despite its lack of reliance on traditional pollinators. Its intricate pollination habits represent mother nature's inventiveness with the plant capitalizing on its unique features. Luring victims with deceptive allure, it cunningly turns them into both nutrient source and pollination agent. The dance of seduction and sacrifice, centered around this self-sustaining plant, never ceases to bewitch.
Pollination Techniques
Feng shui direction
North
The common swamp pitcher-plant aligns subtly with Feng Shui principles. It encourages the flow of Chi, promoting harmony and balance, particularly when planted facing North. This direction symbolizes water in Feng Shui, and it alludes to the plant's affinity for wet environments. However, this interpretation may vary based on one's unique understanding of Feng Shui.
Fengshui Details
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Plants Related to Common swamp pitcher-plant

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Carpet sedum
Carpet sedum
Carpet sedum (Sedum lineare) is also known as variegated stonecrop and needle stonecrop. It’s an exceedingly low-maintenance plant. In fact, one of the reasons it’s called stonecrop is that farmers have joked that “only stones need less care than sedum.” Another reason is the plant is often found growing over stones and rocks.
Large white petunia
Large white petunia
Large white petunia (*Petunia axillaris*) is a flowering herbaceous annual plant of the tobacco family (Solanaceae), native to South America. Because of its hardiness and elegant trumpet-shaped white flowers, it is a familiar garden plant, but still less common in gardens than its descendant - the garden petunia. Garden petunia is a hybrid of Petunia axillaris and Petunia integrifolia.
Cabbage
Cabbage
When you look at a wild cabbage plant, you may be surprised by how many edible vegetables were derived from it. Native peoples selectively cultivated the wild cabbage over centuries to produce broccoli, cauliflower, kale, kohlrabi, and more. The wild form of the plant is also edible.
Cup of gold vine
Cup of gold vine
A hardy, heavy vine, the cup of gold vine needs a sturdy structure to grow on and show off its 15 cm yellow blooms. These flowers have a fragrance similar to the sweet scent of bananas. This vine can grow up to 15 m long, or it can be pruned into more of a shrub shape.
Geranium aralia
Geranium aralia
The geranium aralia is a shrub plant native to tropical Asia. Without pruning, these plants can grow very tall, with stiff, spreading branches. They take well to shaping, so they have been used to create both bonsai trees and hedges. The green leaves sometimes have white or yellow outlines.
Aphrodite's phalaenopsis
Aphrodite's phalaenopsis
Aphrodite's phalaenopsis is a Northeast and Southeast Asia native plant. It has glossy, evergreen foliage and yellow-white blooms as attributes. In addition, this plant is easy to grow as long as it receives proper care.
Cape jasmine
Cape jasmine
Gardenia jasminoides is an evergreen shrub with unique, glossy evergreen leaves and stunning flowers. The sophisticated, matte white flowers are often used in bouquets. The exceptional beauty of this ornamental plant has made it a popular and highly appreciated plant amongst gardeners and horticulturalists.
Golden pothos
Golden pothos
The golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular houseplant that is commonly seen in Australia, Asia, and the West Indies. It goes by many nicknames, including "devil's ivy", because it is so hard to kill and can even grow in low light conditions. Golden pothos has poisonous sap, so it should be kept away from pets and children.
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Related Plants
Common swamp pitcher-plant
Common swamp pitcher-plant
Common swamp pitcher-plant
Common swamp pitcher-plant
Common swamp pitcher-plant
Common swamp pitcher-plant
Common swamp pitcher-plant
Nepenthes mirabilis
Common swamp pitcher-plant (Nepenthes mirabilis) is a carnivorous plant native to continental Southeast Asia and all major islands of the Malay Archipelago. This plant requires high humidity and high temperatures for optimal growth. “Mirabilis” comes from the Latin word for “wonderful.”
Water
Water
Twice per week
Sunlight
Sunlight
Partial sun
more
question

Questions About Common swamp pitcher-plant

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Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
What’s the best method to water your Common swamp pitcher-plant?
more
What should I do if I water Common swamp pitcher-plant too much/too little?
more
How often should I water my Common swamp pitcher-plant?
more
How much water does my Common swamp pitcher-plant need?
more
Should I water Common swamp pitcher-plant differently when I plant it indoors but not outdoors?
more
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plant_info

Key Facts About Common swamp pitcher-plant

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Feedback
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Attributes of Common swamp pitcher-plant

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Herb, Vine
Planting Time
Winter
Bloom Time
Summer
Harvest Time
Summer, Fall, Winter
Plant Height
3 m
Spread
50 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Red
Flower Size
2 cm to 3 cm
Flower Color
Yellow
Green
Red
Brown
Gold
Fruit Color
Green
Dormancy
Non-dormant
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃
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Usages

Garden Use
Common swamp pitcher-plant is a species of carnivorous plant favored by gardeners who live in tropical or subtropical regions and like showy, unusual-looking plants that are relatively tough and eat bugs. It needs a lot of water, and is most commonly planted in water gardens, heavily watered planters, and on the banks of ponds.
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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Common swamp pitcher-plant

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Common issues for Common swamp pitcher-plant based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More About the Brown spot more
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
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Scars
Scars Scars Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Learn More About the Scars more
Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Learn More About the Leaf rot more
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Aged yellow and dry
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Scars
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Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Leaf rot
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
  2. Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
  3. Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
  4. Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
  5. Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
  6. Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
  7. Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
  8. Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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distribution

Distribution of Common swamp pitcher-plant

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Habitat of Common swamp pitcher-plant

Freshwater
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Common swamp pitcher-plant

Common swamp pitcher-plant is native to Southeast Asia, where it thrives in diverse habitats from grasslands to forests. Its distribution also extends to Northern Australia and China. While predominantly found within its native range, common swamp pitcher-plant has been successfully cultivated in other regions, indicating its adaptability beyond its traditional bounds.
distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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Plants Related to Common swamp pitcher-plant

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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Partial sun
Ideal
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Full sun, Full shade
Tolerance
Above 6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Common swamp pitcher-plant thrives excellently in areas with dispersed light and can handle more intense light or even scanty light. Originating from an ecosystem with varied light exposure, it's adaptable to significant changes in lighting. Excessive or deficient light might influence growth but not fatal.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Common swamp pitcher-plant is a versatile plant that thrives in full sunlight but can tolerate partial shade. However, when placed in rooms with insufficient lighting, it easily exhibits symptoms of light deficiency, hindering its growth.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Slower or no new growth
Common swamp pitcher-plant enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your common swamp pitcher-plant may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Solutions
1. To optimize plant growth, shift them to increasingly sunnier spots each week until they receive 3-6 hours of direct sunlight daily, enabling gradual adaptation to changing light conditions.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Common swamp pitcher-plant thrives in full sun exposure but can tolerate partial shade. They have a remarkable ability to tolerate intense sunlight, resulting in subtle symptoms of sunburn that may not be easily visible.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Common swamp pitcher-plant is native to humid climates with warm temperatures ranging from 20 to 38 ℃ (68 to 100.4 ℉). These plants thrive in hot and sunny conditions, such as those found in tropical regions. During the winter season, it is recommended to reduce the temperature to a range of 16 to 24 ℃ (60.8 to 75.2 ℉) to promote optimal growth.
Regional wintering strategies
Common swamp pitcher-plant prefers relatively warm temperatures, so maintaining temperatures above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} during winter cultivation is beneficial for plant growth. The minimum temperature should be kept above freezing point to prevent the plant from freezing damage. When the outdoor temperature approaches -5°C (25°F) during winter, it is advisable to bring Common swamp pitcher-plant indoors or provide protection by setting up a temporary greenhouse or using materials such as plastic film or fabric to wrap the plant.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in Common swamp pitcher-plant
Common swamp pitcher-plant has moderate tolerance to low temperatures and thrives best when the temperature is between {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} and {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves may darken in color. In severe cases, water-soaked necrosis, wilting, and drooping may occur, and the color of the leaves gradually turns brown.
Solutions
Trim away the frost-damaged parts. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment or set up a makeshift greenhouse for cold protection. When placing the plant indoors, choose a location near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. If there is insufficient light, you can use supplemental lighting.
Symptoms of High Temperature in Common swamp pitcher-plant
During summer, Common swamp pitcher-plant should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant's growth slows down, the color of its leaves becomes lighter, and it becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the afternoon sun. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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