To water Stinknet, you can use a garden hose with a spray nozzle, a watering can, or just about any other common watering tool. Generally, Stinknet is not too picky about how they receive their water, as they can live off of rainwater, tap water, or filtered water. Often, you should try not to water this plant from overhead, as doing so can damage the leaves and flowers and may lead to disease as well. At times, the best method for watering this plant is to set up a drip irrigation system. These systems work well for Stinknet as they apply water evenly and directly to the soil. For one Stinknet that grows in a container, you can use a similar watering approach while changing the tools you use. To water a container-grown Stinknet, use a cup, watering can, or your tap to apply water directly to the soil.

The remedy for underwatering Stinknet is somewhat obvious. When you notice that your plant lacks moisture, simply begin watering it on a more regular basis. The issue of overwatering can be a much more dire situation, especially if you fail to notice it early. When your Stinknet is overwatered, it may contract diseases that lead to its decline and death. The best way to prevent this outcome is to choose a proper growing location, one that receives plenty of sunlight to help dry the soil and has good enough drainage to allow excess water to drain rather than pooling and causing waterlogged soils. If you overwater your Stinknet that lives in a pot, you may need to consider changing it to a new pot. Your previous container may not have contained soil with good drainage or may not have had sufficient drainage holes. As you repot your overwatered Stinknet, make sure to add loose soils and to use a pot that drains efficiently.

Stinknet needs water regularly throughout the growing season. Beginning in spring, you should plan to water this plant about once per week. As the season presses on and grows warmer, you may need to increase your watering rate to about two to three times per week. Exceeding at this rate can be detrimental to your Stinknet. With that said, you should also ensure that the soil in which your Stinknet grows remains relatively moist but not wet, regardless of how often you must water to make that the case. Watering Stinknet that lives in a pot is a bit different. Generally, you'll need to increase your watering frequency, as the soil in a pot can heat up and dry out a bit faster than ground soil. As such, you should plan to water a container-grown Stinknet a few times per week in most cases, versus just once per week for an in-ground plant.

There are a few different ways you can go about determining how much water to give to your Stinknet. Some gardeners choose to pick their water volume based on feeling the soil for moisture. That method suggests that you should water until you feel that the first six inches of soil have become moist. Alternatively, you can use a set measurement to determine how much to water your Stinknet. Typically, you should give your Stinknet about two gallons of water per week, depending on how hot it is and how quickly the soil becomes dry. However, following strict guidelines like that can lead to overwatering if your plant requires less than two gallons per week for whatever reason. When growing Stinknet in a container, you will need to use a different method to determine how much water to supply. Typically, you should give enough water to moisten all of the layers of soil that have become dry. To test if that is the case, you can simply stick your finger in the soil to feel for moisture. You can also water the soil until you notice a slight trickle of excess water exiting the drainage holes of your pot.

It can be somewhat difficult to avoid overwatering your Stinknet. On the one hand, these plants have relatively deep roots that require you to moisten the soil weekly. On the other hand, Stinknet are plants that are incredibly susceptible to root rot. Along with root rot, your Stinknet may also experience browning as a result of overwatering. Underwatering is far less likely for your Stinknet as these plants can survive for a while in the absence of supplemental watering. However, if you go too long without giving this plant water, it will likely begin to wilt. You may also notice dry leaves.

You can expect your Stinknet’s water needs to increase as the season moves on. During spring, you should water about once per week. Then, as the summer heat arrives, you will likely need to give a bit more water to your Stinknet, at times increasing to about three times per week. This is especially true of Stinknet that grow in containers, as the soil in a container is far more likely to dry out faster than ground soil when the weather is warm. In autumn, while your Stinknet is still in bloom, it may need a bit less water as the temperature has likely declined, and the sun is no longer as strong as it was in summer.

Stinknet will move through several different growth stages throughout the year, some of which may require more water than others. For example, you will probably start your Stinknet as a seed. While the seed germinates, you should plant to give more water than your Stinknet will need later in life, watering often enough to maintain consistent soil moisture. After a few weeks, your Stinknet will grow above the soil and may need slightly less water than at the seedling phase. Then, once this plant is mature, you can begin to use the regular watering frequency of about once per week. As flower development takes place, you may need to give slightly more water to aid the process.

There are several reasons why most Stinknet grow outdoors rather than indoors. The first is that these plants typically grow to tall. The second reason is that Stinknet needs more daily sunlight than most indoor growing locations can provide. If you are able to provide a suitable indoor growing location, you may find that you need to give your Stinknet water a bit more often than you would in an outdoor growing location. Part of the reason for this is that indoor growing locations tend to be a lot drier than outdoor ones due to HVAC units. The other reason for this is that soil in containers can dry out relatively quickly as well compared to soil in the ground.

Stinknet is a kind of annual plant so it doesn't need much pruning. You only need to cut off and clean the diseased, yellow or dropped leaves and stems during its growing period. This will help your Stinknet to stay away from pathogens infection.

During the growth of the plant, yellowing, drying and spotted leaves are produced, and these spotted and discolored leaves need to be trimmed off. If the whole piece of leave is discolored or infected, you will need to cut it off completely. In other situations, you will only need to cut off the discolored or infected part on certain leaves. Stinknet above the ground will die and dry up in the winter, and the dead plants need to be cleaned up.

Stinknet leaves are delicate, so take care not to score or bruise them. Unless the leaves are withered or heavily discolored, do not prune the leaves from the lowermost branches unless they’re damaged. They typically grow the largest, so they supply the plant with critical energy to keep it growing right. Please prevent the wounds from water after pruning until they are fully recovered. Remember always sterilize the tools before pruning. When the pruning is finished, please throw all the waste leaves and stems into the trashbins to avoid diseases and bugs.

Sterilize all the tools before pruning; unclean tools will pass pathogens to the plant through wounds; Prune on sunny days because the new cuts will be infected by pathogens if they're distained by rain or water. Throw all the waste leaves and stems into trashbins, they will easily rot and attract diseases and bugs

Expect to prune your Stinknet every week if it’s growing well or every two weeks if it grows slowly. It is always good to prune it on sunny days because if you prune it on rainy days, the rainwater will distain the cuts and cause the whole plant to be infected.

Because Stinknet is an annual plant, the pruning should take place basically during the seasons that the plant grows rapidly. During the growth of the plant, yellowing, drying and spotted leaves are produced, and these spotted and discolored leaves need to be trimmed off.

You must expose the plants to at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight daily. They prefer more exposure to the morning light, especially in the summer. The Stinknet needs full sun and more sunlight that it can get. The more light these species get, the more they can manufacture food, produce beautiful blooms, and survive.

The Stinknet grows best under full sunlight. It's best not to crowd them together so they can get exposure to the sun evenly. The leaves shouldn't be starved with sunlight. If planted in pots, try to expose the herbaceous flowers in windows with direct sun and ensure they receive full sunlight regardless of the months. They don't tend to do well in partial or filtered light as this will not produce strong stems and healthy flowers. It's best if the Stinknet is always exposed to the sun.

When the temperature rises above 90℉(32℃), the Stinknet can get damaged by extreme temperatures, especially if they are exposed to many hours of sun. It's always ideal for providing some shade from the light in the afternoon in the summer. It's always important to keep in mind that the sunlight in the summer is stronger than the one in the winter. Sunlight exposure is also 50% longer in the summer than in the winter. If the Stinknet is too stressed with sunlight, you might want to keep them fully hydrated. Water them when the top of the soil is about 2 inches dry, and move the plants indoors if it's too hot outside. This is the case if they are planted in containers. It can be normal for the plant leaves to wilt during the day. Generally, they can recover at night. However, when you notice that the Stinknet is still drooping, this means that the plant is losing water fast, and you need to water them.

The Stinknet does not need any protection from the sun. In fact, they love the sun, and some species are heliotropic. Plant them in south-facing gardens whenever possible so they can be exposed from morning to afternoon. While the sun can benefit them, some may experience a sunburn. You might offer protection from the afternoon and midday sun through a shade of a tree or a wall. Growing the Stinknet in shady areas is impossible because the larger flowers would require a lot of energy to grow and produce. Always provide the lighting conditions and set them in an area with full sun for best results.

When the Stinknet does not get adequate sunlight, or they are not placed in full sun locations, it's worth noting that the photosynthetic process will slow down. A lack of sunlight will cause the stems to become more leggy since they become thin and long since they tend to seek too much sunlight. They will not bloom and produce seeds in the shade. Inadequate sunlight will also mean that the older leaves can die, the color of the new ones is lighter than the old foliage, and the new growth is smaller than the last ones. The Stinknet indeed loves the sun so much. However, they can wilt when exposed to excessive heat and ultraviolet light during the extreme summer months, so be careful. You might want to cover them with a net that has a green shade, especially in the summer, to prevent the leaves and the flowers from scorching. When they are indoors, reduce the heat with the help of a fan.

When the Stinknet is growing, they need more light than their mature counterparts. The younger ones should receive adequate light, but they might not be prepared for sudden full sunlight, especially if they are grown in a nursery. They can be more sensitive to the summer sun, so the lighting should be gradual and slow.

During summer or late spring, the Stinknet needs 6 to 8 hours of direct light every single day. This is whether they are planted outdoors. If the Stinknet is planted in pots or you're growing them in the winter, they need direct fluorescent lights that help them grow better. Make sure to place them in an indoor area where they are facing south or east so they can have enough sunlight for photosynthesis.

When transplanting the plants, they should not be exposed to sudden sunlight. Give the Stinknet to grow and mature before transplanting outside. Some species of herbaceous plants can grow taller and might cast a shade on other young plants. Allow between 80 to 100 days of growing season before planting another batch to ensure that every plant receives more than enough sunlight for at least 6 hours a day. Make sure that the Stinknet receives the best light possible, especially if it's planted in a nursery. These are sun-loving plants, but too much sunlight with a very hot temperature is also detrimental to their growth. Indoor lights should be replaced with natural sunlight as much as possible since these species crave this every day.

Colder temperatures can affect plants since they have the same temperature as the air around them. When they are exposed to the sun, they can start to get warm again, but this is not the case during winter. The temperature range for the Stinknet is often 70~85℉(21~30℃). They might tolerate 20~30℉(-6~0℃) even 15℉(-10℃), but not for long since this can result in frost damage. Maximum temperatures should be around 70~85℉(21~30℃), but make sure that you spray them with water from time to time and give them some shade to prevent wilting.

Do some research and make sure that the temperature is right when growing Stinknet. Some growers might consider decreasing the plants' thermostats during the growing season to reduce HVAC costs. However, it's vital to understand that the temperature can affect the flowering, pest management, and quality of the plants. There will be a temperature point where the Stinknet will stop growing, and this can happen during the winter when some species might go into a dormant state. The base temperature becomes warmer when the season changes and the Stinknet can grow faster. The species that are naturally growing in warm habitats have higher optimum temperatures when you compare them to the ones that thrive in a cooler climate. When the seeds of Stinknet are exposed to cool temperatures, this can cause a decrease in uniformity and delays. You might also want to lower the temperature during flowering but not at other phases. Cooler temperatures at night will also require less water, so adjust the irrigation as needed.

Stop fertilizing the plant to avoid new growth and allow the old ones to become hardy. This way, they can endure colder temperature when it begins to drop. To keep them warm, you can build structures around the Stinknet like cages or trellises. There are also options to use heat mats that can gently warm the soil since they can consistently maintain an ideal temperature range for the Stinknet.

During winter, you can protect the Stinknet from frost by covering it with cloths, tarps, burlaps, sheets, or plastic buckets. Make sure to keep them down so they continue to act as insulators and the wind will not blow them away. However, ensure that the plastic sheets or burlap covers should not touch any part of the fruit or foliage, or the cold temperatures can transfer to the material and cause burns. When the temperatures begin to rise during the daytime, remove the covers.

When growing the Stinknet in spring, you might want to increase humidity since the air temperature tends to be cooler at this time. A dry temperature can be a stressful growing environment for various species, which can help. If summer arrives, the large cover of the greenhouse and the warm temperature will mean that there will be a higher humidity level in the air. Some signs to look for are the condensation that is often found on the walls of the greenhouse, and this can cause issues with pollination and the development of infections when the water begins to fall on the leaves. Make adjustments according to the temperature and do some spraying during the hotter days of the year.

Generally, the first cold snap can destroy the Stinknet and others might go into a dormant state when the temperature is low. Some plants can get chilled when the temperatures range from 20~30℉(-6~0℃). They can freeze when the temperature begins to drop below 32℉(0℃). Those species that hide most of their parts under the soil might lose their structures above ground, but they can recover in spring. Some of the associated issues with too low temperatures are the lack of availability of resources like water, and nutrients, and those subtropical plants can suffer when the temperature reaches below 20℉(-6℃). The plants can also get damaged because of extreme heat stress when it's too high. This can reduce the transpiration rate that can affect the growth and productivity of Stinknet.

You need to cover the plants at night since these can add about 5 degrees more to protect the species from frost and freezing temperatures. The cloth rows can work well as blankets and ensure that there are no openings where the heat could escape. When using the covers, avoid the plastic from touching the foliage because this can cause the Stinknet to freeze. Remember to keep the covers during the day and stop using heat pads during the summer. It will always be worth the effort to protect the cold-intolerant plants from freezing temperatures to help them survive.

If you prefer not to use a heat pad, bring the Stinknet inside, especially if it's freezing outdoors. During spring, consider the ones you need to bring indoors and plant them in moveable pots and containers.

Most often, the ones caring for the Stinknet will grow them in greenhouses. This is because they can provide adequate temperature in these areas that won't affect the photosynthesis process of a specific process. Some install the proper HVAC systems to control the temperatures of Stinknet. This can handle many species' cooling and heating needs, especially during the summer and winter. They generally place the cooling or heating pad under the plants rather than above to achieve their desired temperatures. If outdoors, you can protect the Stinknet from frost by covering it with cloths, tarps, burlaps, sheets, or plastic buckets.

Heat mats are often left on Stinknet to set the temperatures at a more consistent level. When the weather becomes warmer during the day, you can remove them, especially if the species are exposed to the sun. Put the pads away once the plants are established and when they start growing flowers and fruits.

Plants need nutrients to survive; most gardeners, regardless of experience, are well aware of this factor. However, without food, Stinknet will die out soon after the first pollination. Therefore, providing the right type of nutrients in the right amounts is the best way to keep Stinknet going throughout the blooming season and producing large, beautiful flowers. Fertilizer also helps Stinknet build a large, healthy root system. This plant needs all the help it can get since its root system is very thin and easily damaged. Fertilizing at planting helps Stinknet build a solid root structure that not only provides stability to the plant, but also sets the stage for a sensational flowering performance. When timed correctly, fertilization can greatly extend Stinknet's flowering period.

Stinknet puts on tremendous growth early in the growing season, once the danger of the last frost has passed. It’s during this time that Stinknet should be fertilized; more specifically, during planting. The idea is to apply when the plant is first planted in the ground or in planters; however you choose to plant it. This will be the only dose of fertilizer until later in the year, when blooms are in full force. Once the season is in full swing and Stinknet has opened most of its blooms at full size, it’s time to start fertilizing again. Around the time when blooms are at peak output, begin fertilizing again once every three to four weeks, as weather permits. Then, after Stinknet starts to put out fewer new blooms, stop fertilizing; there’s no need to fertilize when the plant can’t produce any more blooms.

While regular fertilizing is important for Stinknet, it absolutely can be applied at the wrong time. Some situations call for holding back the fertilizer once in a while. These are usually climate related, but they also include a variety of controllable factors. Essentially, when something is wrong with the plant, the soil, or the climate, wait it out until things have been smoothed over and the plant has recovered. An example of when not to fertilize is if there are severe or unexpected changes in the weather. If a cold nap suddenly comes in the middle of summer, wait until it’s warm again to start fertilizing. The same stands for if the soil becomes too dry or too packed to absorb anything. At this point, fertilizer will be going straight to the roots, rather than being diffused by soil before it reaches them. As you can imagine, the roots of Stinknet aren’t very fond of that. When temperatures soar during the hottest parts of the day into the 90-degree fahrenheit range, don’t apply fertilizer. Since fertilizer can be broken down at various speeds depending on temperature, it’s especially important not to allow hot temperatures to break it down too quickly. Pests or diseases should also be treated and cleared up before re-fertilizing.

Most types of Stinknet need the same general balance of nutrients from fertilizer. These should come in the form of a fertilizer that’s formulated specifically for high-yield blooming plants. A fertilizer with a higher level of phosphorus is the best option. This type of fertilizer has a higher P number in its NPK number, for example 10-30-10. Several fertilizer brands sell a fertilizer that’s perfect for blooming plants like Stinknet, which are an easy and fuss-free way to provide the right nutrients. If you do choose to use a pre-mixed fertilizer, follow the directions on the package to prevent Stinknet from getting too much or too little fertilizer, both of which can cause the plant to grow poorly or even wilt entirely.

Depending on the type of fertilizer you have, specific fertilizing instructions may vary. However, there are a few general tips for applying most types of fertilizer to Stinknet. The first fertilizer application, which should be when you first plant Stinknet, will likely consist of mixing the recommended amount of fertilizer into the soil before planting and watering in the Stinknet. Subsequent fertilizing may look a little different. For pellet fertilizers, simply mix the pellets into the top inch of soil around the outer edge of the plant, where the roots are. Water them in very well at first, then water regularly after that. Other fertilizers may be mixed into a watering can and applied just like a regular watering. Follow any instructions on fertilizer packaging for consistency, but if you’d rather keep things on a regular schedule, shoot for every three to four weeks.

Over-fertilizing is a very easy mistake to make for first-time gardeners, or even for experienced gardeners trying out a new product. Fortunately, Stinknet makes this issue known very well by displaying several signs of distress. You may notice that its leaves are yellowing quickly, the foliage may wilt, or new blooms may be under-developed. These are all clear signs of too much food. When you fertilize Stinknet too frequently, you create uninhabitable soil conditions. Soil may become too hot, which is a term used to describe when soil is too saturated with minerals, nutrients, or compost, and ends up burning the roots of anything planted in it. It’s a good idea to flush out the soil well once a month or so, just by watering twice as much as normal with good drainage.