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Holly olive
Holly olive
Holly olive
Holly olive
Holly olive
Holly olive
Holly olive
Osmanthus heterophyllus
Also known as : False holly, Holly tea olive
Holly olive (Osmanthus heterophyllus) is a plant species also known as false holly. It is a hardy, fuss-free bush that makes an excellent hedge. Although it resembles traditional holly, it is not a true holly bush. Holly olive grows well in rich, moist soil with partial shade in the heat of summer. It is drought tolerant.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
7 to 9
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care guide

Care Guide for Holly olive

Watering Care
Watering Care
Holly olive will thrive when watered enough to maintain consistently moist soil. Do not allow the soil to dry out. If the soil does not feel moist to the touch, it is time to water. To encourage root growth in the first season, more frequent waterings are required. Once the root system is established, watering may be spaced out as needed.
Details on Watering Care Watering Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilizing Care
It’s best to fertilize holly olive in early spring using a fertilizer with added phosphorus. Once established, plants can benefit from a yearly fertilizing. If the soil is of poor quality, all-purpose fertilizer in the early growing season is beneficial, and one that is high in nitrogen will encourage more green leafy growth. Avoid late-season fertilizing for best results.
Details on Fertilizing Care Fertilizing Care
Pruning
Pruning
Trim the diseased, withered leaves once a month.
Details on Pruning Pruning
Soil Care
Soil Care
Clay, Sand, Loam, Chalky, Sandy loam, Alkaline
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
Repotting
Repotting
Needs excellent drainage in pots.
Details on Repotting Repotting
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Holly olive
Water
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
7 to 9
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
question

Questions About Holly olive

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Holly olive?
Your Holly olive will not be too picky about how you choose to water it. As such, you can use just about any common watering tool to moisten this plant’s soil. Watering cans, hoses, and even cups will work just fine when it is time to water your Holly olive. Regardless of which watering tool you use, you should typically apply the water directly to the soil. In doing so, you should ensure that you moisten all soil areas equally to give all parts of the root system the water it needs. It can help to use filtered water, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to plants. It is also beneficial to use water that is at or slightly above room temperature, as colder or hotter water can be somewhat shocking to the Holly olive. However, the Holly olive usually responds well to any kind of water you give it.
Read More more
What should I do if I water my Holly olive too much or too little?
For outdoor plants, especially newly planted plants or plant seedlings, they can be prone to lack of watering. Remember that you need to keep watering enough for a few months when the tree is small or just planted. This is because once the roots are established, Holly olive can rely on rain most of the time.
When your Holly olive is planted in pots, overwatering is often more likely to.When you accidentally overwater your Holly olive, you should be prepared to remedy the situation immediately. First, you should stop watering your plant right away to minimize the effect of your overwatering. After, you should consider removing your Holly olive from its pot to inspect its roots. If you find that none of the roots have developed root rot, it may be permissible to return your plant to its container. If you do discover signs of root rot, then you should trim away any roots that have been affected. You may also want to apply a fungicide to prevent further damage. Lastly, you should repot your Holly olive in soil that is well-draining. In the case of an underwatered Holly olive, simply water this plant more frequently.
Underwatering is often an easy fix. If you underwater, the plant's leaves will tend to droop and dry out and fall off, and the leaves will quickly return to fullness after sufficient watering. Please correct your watering frequency as soon as underwatering occurs.
Read More more
How often should I water my Holly olive?
Most plants that grow naturally outdoors can be allowed to grow normally with rainfall. If your area lacks rainfall, consider giving your plants adequate watering every 2 weeks during the spring and fall. More frequent watering is needed in summer. In winter, when growth becomes slower and plants need less water, water more sparingly. Throughout the winter, you may not give it additional watering at all. If your Holly olive is young or newly planted, then you should water more frequently to help it establish, and mature and grow up to have more adaptable and drought tolerant plants.
For potted plants, there are two main ways that you can determine how often to water your Holly olive. The first way is to set a predetermined watering schedule. If you choose this route, you should plan to water this plant about once every week or once every other week. However, this approach may not always work as it does not consider the unique conditions of the growing environment for your Holly olive .
Your watering frequency can also change depending on the season. For instance, a predetermined watering schedule will likely not suffice during summer when this plant's water needs are highest. An alternative route is to set your watering frequency based on soil moisture. Typically, it is best to wait until the first two to four inches of soil, usually ⅓ to ½ depth of the pots, have dried out entirely before you give more water.
Read More more
How much water does my Holly olive need?
When it comes time to water your Holly olive, you may be surprised to find that this plant does not always need a high volume of water. Instead, if only a few inches of soil have dried since your last watering, you can support healthy growth in the Holly olive by giving it about five to ten ounces of water every time you water. You can also decide your water volume based on soil moisture. As mentioned above, you should note how many inches of soil have dried out between waterings. A surefire way to make sure your Holly olive gets the moisture it needs is to supply enough water to moisten all the soil layers that became dry since the last time you watered. If more than half of the soil has become dry, you should consider giving more water than usual. In those cases, continue adding water until you see excess water draining from your pot’s drainage holes.
If your Holly olive is planted in an area that gets plenty of rain outdoors, it may not need additional watering. When the Holly olive is young or just getting established, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As it continues to grow and establish, it can survive entirely on rainwater and only when the weather is hot and there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving your Holly olive a full watering to prevent them from suffering stress.
Read More more
How can I tell if i'm watering my Holly olive enough?
Overwatering is a far more common problem for the Holly olive, and there are several signs you should look for when this occurs. Generally, an overwatered Holly olive will have yellowing leaves and may even drop some leaves. Also, overwatering can cause the overall structure of your plant to shrivel and may also promote root rot. On the other hand, an underwatered Holly olive will also begin to wilt. It may also display leaves that are brown or brittle to the touch. Whether you see signs of overwatering or underwatering, you should be prepared to intervene and restore the health of your Holly olive.
Read More more
How can I water my Holly olive at different growth stages?
When the Holly olive is very young, such as when it is in a seedling stage, you will need to give it more water than you would if it were at a mature age. During the early stages of this plant’s life, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist to encourage root development. The same is true for any Holly olive that you have transplanted to a new growing location. Also, the Holly olive can develop showy flowers and fruits when you give them the correct care. If your Holly olive is in a flowering or fruiting phase, you will likely need to give a bit more water than you usually would to support these plant structures.
Read More more
How can I water my Holly olive through the seasons?
The seasonal changes will affect how often you water your Holly olive. Mainly, during the hottest summer months, you will likely need to increase how much you water this plant, especially if it grows in an area that receives ample sunlight. Strong summer sunlight can cause soil to dry out much faster than usual, meaning that you’ll need to water more frequently. By contrast, your Holly olive will need much less water during the winter, as it will not be in an active growing phase. During winter, you can get by with watering once every 2 to 3 weeks or sometimes not at all. For those growing this plant indoors, you should be somewhat wary of appliances such as air conditioners, which can cause your plant to dry out more quickly, which also calls for more frequent watering.
Read More more
What's the difference between watering my Holly olive indoors vs outdoors?
In some cases, your Holly olive may not need any supplemental watering when it grows outside and will survive on rainwater alone. However, if you live in an area of little to no rain, you should water this plant about every two weeks. If you belong to the group of people who live out of this plant's natural hardiness zone, you should grow it indoors. In an indoor setting, you should monitor your plant's soil as it can dry out more quickly when it is in a container or when it is exposed to HVAC units such as air conditioners. Those drying factors will lead you to water this plant a bit more often than if you grew it outdoors.
Read More more
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Key Facts About Holly olive

Attributes of Holly olive

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Shrub, Tree
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
Bloom Time
Late summer, Early fall, Mid fall
Harvest Time
Summer
Plant Height
2 m to 8 m
Spread
2 m to 2.5 m
Leaf Color
Green
Yellow
Flower Size
2.5 cm
Flower Color
White
Fruit Color
Black
Blue
Purple
Stem Color
Green
Silver
White
Cream
Dormancy
Winter dormancy
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
15 - 35 ℃
Growth Season
Fall
Growth Rate
Slow

Name story

Holly osmanthus
The common name, holly olive, refers to this plant’s resemblance to a holly bush, even though it is actually an evergreen in the olive family. It is not related to true holly. The Latin name, Osmanthus heterophyllus, refers to the shape of the leaves, as different leaves.

Symbolism

Foresight

Usages

Garden Use
An English Holly look-alike, holly olive is characterized by lush evergreen foliage and dense growth. These features make it ideal for use as a hedge or a screen, but the decorative leaves, cold-season blooms, and nice oval shape also make it a fantastic specimen shrub. Additionally, holly olive is hardy and low-maintenance, making it an easy garden addition.

Scientific Classification of Holly olive

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Holly olive

Common issues for Holly olive based on 10 million real cases
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Powdery Mildew
Powdery Mildew Powdery Mildew
Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is a white mold that appears on leaves. It can be wiped away.
Solutions: As powdery Mildew spores are transported by the wind, it can be tricky to put a complete stop to the spread of the fungus. Luckily, there are several easy treatments for plants that are exhibiting symptoms: If powdery Mildew seems to be impacting isolated leaves or stems, they can simply be trimmed away and disposed of. Disinfect pruning tools after doing this. Remove any plant debris from the ground around the infected plants and dispose of it in the garbage. Then, cover the soil with a thick layer of mulch to limit reinfection. Milk sprays have been found to be useful in controlling powdery Mildew. Make up a spray consisting of 60% water and 40% milk and spray on the affected plants. This can also be used as a preventative measure. In cases where powdery Mildew is more widespread, plants can be sprayed with a mild sulfur- or copper-based fungicide or a non-toxic solution made from baking soda and soap. Sprays can help areas that have been recently infected, though they are less effective against well-established infections. If possible, try transplanting the plants to a sunnier location. Though powdery Mildew does fine in hot, dry conditions, it is unable to reproduce without some humidity. Putting plants in more direct sunlight can help stop the spread of the fungus. Trimming around closely-packed plants can help improve airflow, which also prevents the reproduction of the fungus.
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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Powdery Mildew
plant poor
Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is a white mold that appears on leaves. It can be wiped away.
Overview
Overview
Powdery Mildew is a common disease and the scourge of many home gardeners. It affects a large variety of plants including many varieties of vegetables. The disease is easy to identify but not always easy to get rid of once it has started to infect plants.
Powdery Mildew thrives in warm, humid conditions and can quickly spread from plant to plant. Although this disease will not kill the plants, a severe infestation will inhibit plant growth and fruit production.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Powdery Mildew appears as pale yellow spots on leaves. These spots then become white and look powdery. The fungus spreads quickly both on the top and underside of the leaves and on the plant stems.
These white, powdery spots will join up and soon, almost the entire surface of the leaf appears white. Eventually, the edges of the leaf will turn brown and dry and start to die.
In severe infections, even the flower buds will turn white and become disfigured. Fruit will ripen prematurely and be inedible.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Powdery Mildew is caused by a fungus. There are many different genera of fungus diseases that cause powdery Mildew. The fungal spores overwinter inside leaf buds and on plant material that has dropped to the soil below. As the weather warms up, these spores are then carried onto the plant by water, wind, and insects. Powdery Mildew can also be more severe in areas that experience warm, dry climates, even though the spores require some humidity to germinate.
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Leaf beetles
plant poor
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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distribution

Distribution of Holly olive

Habitat of Holly olive

Evergreen forests
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Holly olive

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
habit
care_scenes

More Info on Holly Olive Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
Explore More
Lighting
Full sun
The holly olive flourishes when exposed to abundant sunshine throughout the day, yet it has adaptability for moderate sun conditions. In the place of its genesis, it thrives under full day sunlight. Both excessive shade or intense solar exposure can hinder the plant's vigor.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
-10 - 38 ℃
Holly olive prefers a temperature range of 59 to 95 ℉ (15 to 35 ℃). It is native to regions with mild winter climates, such as Japan and China. In colder areas, it may benefit from some winter protection to prevent damage from frost.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
6-8 feet
The best time to transplant holly olive is during the delightful period from mid-spring to mid-summer. Choose a location with well-drained soil, and partial to full sun exposure. As for transplant tips, ensure gentle handling of the delicate root system to encourage successful growth post-transplant.
Transplant Techniques
Pruning
Spring, Winter
Known for its spiny leaves and clusters of fragrant white flowers, holly olive thrives with regular pruning to maintain shape and promote healthy growth. Key techniques include thinning out crowded branches and cutting back overgrown limbs. Optimal pruning occurs in early spring or winter during dormancy to minimize stress. Pruning this species helps to rejuvenate older plants and encourages denser foliage. Special care should be taken to use clean, sharp tools to avoid diseases.
Pruning techniques
Feng shui direction
East
The holly olive is harmonious with the East-facing direction, since East represents wood in Feng Shui, and holly olive is a wood element. Its evergreen nature and sharp leaves also add an energetic vibe, conducive for an East-facing environment. However, personal experiences with this plant might vary.
Fengshui Details
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Plants Related to Holly olive

Prostrate sandmat
Prostrate sandmat
Prostrate sandmat (Euphorbia prostrata) is a plant species native to tropical regions of North and South America and the central United States. Prostrate sandmat has spread all over the globe and is considered an invasive species. This resilient plant often sprouts up through cracks in asphalt on roadsides.
Deodar cedar
Deodar cedar
The deodar cedar is a fine-textured evergreen tree that's one of the most graceful conifers in many landscapes. It produces an aromatic oil that deters many insects but is home to birds and woodpeckers. In the Hindu religion, it's considered a sacred tree. Its specific epithet, deodara, is derived from the Sanskrit language, meaning "the wood of the gods."
Pink knotweed
Pink knotweed
Pink knotweed (Persicaria capitata) is an evergreen perennial plant that grows up to 15 cm tall and 1.5 m long. Pink knotweed grows best in full sun and thrives in a variety of soil conditions. Pink knotweed is often cultivated as ground cover. It is considered an invasive weed in some regions.
Common daisy
Common daisy
The common daisy produces iconic flowers that are seen in European and American folklore dating back centuries. It is often a representation of childlike innocence. The plant is edible and can be used in small quantities in salads, sandwiches, soups, or tea. However, it can also become toxic and cause digestive problems if eaten in quantity.
Santa Maria feverfew
Santa Maria feverfew
Parthenium hysterophorus or santa Maria feverfew is also called famine weed. It is an invasive weed that can disrupt the health of crops, pasture, livestock, and humans. A substance in the plant, called parthenin, is highly toxic and can cause dermatitis and breathing difficulties in humans and animals.
Sisal
Sisal
Sisal (Agave sisalana) is a succulent plant whose yellow flowers bloom along a stalk rising up to 9 m tall and have an unpleasant scent. The flowers, stalk, basal rosette and sap of this plant are edible. Plant in full sun outdoors or place in a bright, sunny location indoors.
Poison ivy
Poison ivy
In pop culture, poison ivy is a symbol of an obnoxious weed because, despite its unthreatening looks, it gives a highly unpleasant contact rash to the unfortunate person who touches it. Still, it is commonly eaten by many animals, and the seeds are a favorite with birds. The leaves turn bright red in fall. Its sister species, Western poison ivy (Toxicodendron rydbergii), is not considered to be invasive in the United States, but is noxious in Australia and New Zealand.
Pokeweed
Pokeweed
Although its berries look juicy and tempting, the fruits and the root of pokeweed are toxic and should not be eaten. Pokeweed is considered a pest species by farmers but is nevertheless often grown as an ornamental plant. Its berries can be made into pokeberry ink as well.
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Holly olive
Holly olive
Holly olive
Holly olive
Holly olive
Holly olive
Holly olive
Osmanthus heterophyllus
Also known as: False holly, Holly tea olive
Holly olive (Osmanthus heterophyllus) is a plant species also known as false holly. It is a hardy, fuss-free bush that makes an excellent hedge. Although it resembles traditional holly, it is not a true holly bush. Holly olive grows well in rich, moist soil with partial shade in the heat of summer. It is drought tolerant.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
7 to 9
more
question

Questions About Holly olive

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Holly olive?
more
What should I do if I water my Holly olive too much or too little?
more
How often should I water my Holly olive?
more
How much water does my Holly olive need?
more
How can I tell if i'm watering my Holly olive enough?
more
How can I water my Holly olive at different growth stages?
more
How can I water my Holly olive through the seasons?
more
What's the difference between watering my Holly olive indoors vs outdoors?
more
icon
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Keep your plants happy and healthy with our guide to watering, lighting, feeding and more.
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close
plant_info

Key Facts About Holly olive

Attributes of Holly olive

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Shrub, Tree
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
Bloom Time
Late summer, Early fall, Mid fall
Harvest Time
Summer
Plant Height
2 m to 8 m
Spread
2 m to 2.5 m
Leaf Color
Green
Yellow
Flower Size
2.5 cm
Flower Color
White
Fruit Color
Black
Blue
Purple
Stem Color
Green
Silver
White
Cream
Dormancy
Winter dormancy
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
15 - 35 ℃
Growth Season
Fall
Growth Rate
Slow
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Name story

Holly osmanthus
The common name, holly olive, refers to this plant’s resemblance to a holly bush, even though it is actually an evergreen in the olive family. It is not related to true holly. The Latin name, Osmanthus heterophyllus, refers to the shape of the leaves, as different leaves.

Symbolism

Foresight

Usages

Garden Use
An English Holly look-alike, holly olive is characterized by lush evergreen foliage and dense growth. These features make it ideal for use as a hedge or a screen, but the decorative leaves, cold-season blooms, and nice oval shape also make it a fantastic specimen shrub. Additionally, holly olive is hardy and low-maintenance, making it an easy garden addition.

Scientific Classification of Holly olive

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Holly olive

Common issues for Holly olive based on 10 million real cases
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More About the Aged yellow and dry more
Powdery Mildew
Powdery Mildew Powdery Mildew Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is a white mold that appears on leaves. It can be wiped away.
Solutions: As powdery Mildew spores are transported by the wind, it can be tricky to put a complete stop to the spread of the fungus. Luckily, there are several easy treatments for plants that are exhibiting symptoms: If powdery Mildew seems to be impacting isolated leaves or stems, they can simply be trimmed away and disposed of. Disinfect pruning tools after doing this. Remove any plant debris from the ground around the infected plants and dispose of it in the garbage. Then, cover the soil with a thick layer of mulch to limit reinfection. Milk sprays have been found to be useful in controlling powdery Mildew. Make up a spray consisting of 60% water and 40% milk and spray on the affected plants. This can also be used as a preventative measure. In cases where powdery Mildew is more widespread, plants can be sprayed with a mild sulfur- or copper-based fungicide or a non-toxic solution made from baking soda and soap. Sprays can help areas that have been recently infected, though they are less effective against well-established infections. If possible, try transplanting the plants to a sunnier location. Though powdery Mildew does fine in hot, dry conditions, it is unable to reproduce without some humidity. Putting plants in more direct sunlight can help stop the spread of the fungus. Trimming around closely-packed plants can help improve airflow, which also prevents the reproduction of the fungus.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Aged yellow and dry
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Powdery Mildew
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Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is a white mold that appears on leaves. It can be wiped away.
Overview
Overview
Powdery Mildew is a common disease and the scourge of many home gardeners. It affects a large variety of plants including many varieties of vegetables. The disease is easy to identify but not always easy to get rid of once it has started to infect plants.
Powdery Mildew thrives in warm, humid conditions and can quickly spread from plant to plant. Although this disease will not kill the plants, a severe infestation will inhibit plant growth and fruit production.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Powdery Mildew appears as pale yellow spots on leaves. These spots then become white and look powdery. The fungus spreads quickly both on the top and underside of the leaves and on the plant stems.
These white, powdery spots will join up and soon, almost the entire surface of the leaf appears white. Eventually, the edges of the leaf will turn brown and dry and start to die.
In severe infections, even the flower buds will turn white and become disfigured. Fruit will ripen prematurely and be inedible.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Powdery Mildew is caused by a fungus. There are many different genera of fungus diseases that cause powdery Mildew. The fungal spores overwinter inside leaf buds and on plant material that has dropped to the soil below. As the weather warms up, these spores are then carried onto the plant by water, wind, and insects. Powdery Mildew can also be more severe in areas that experience warm, dry climates, even though the spores require some humidity to germinate.
Solutions
Solutions
As powdery Mildew spores are transported by the wind, it can be tricky to put a complete stop to the spread of the fungus. Luckily, there are several easy treatments for plants that are exhibiting symptoms:
  1. If powdery Mildew seems to be impacting isolated leaves or stems, they can simply be trimmed away and disposed of. Disinfect pruning tools after doing this.
  2. Remove any plant debris from the ground around the infected plants and dispose of it in the garbage. Then, cover the soil with a thick layer of mulch to limit reinfection.
  3. Milk sprays have been found to be useful in controlling powdery Mildew. Make up a spray consisting of 60% water and 40% milk and spray on the affected plants. This can also be used as a preventative measure.
  4. In cases where powdery Mildew is more widespread, plants can be sprayed with a mild sulfur- or copper-based fungicide or a non-toxic solution made from baking soda and soap. Sprays can help areas that have been recently infected, though they are less effective against well-established infections.
  5. If possible, try transplanting the plants to a sunnier location. Though powdery Mildew does fine in hot, dry conditions, it is unable to reproduce without some humidity. Putting plants in more direct sunlight can help stop the spread of the fungus.
  6. Trimming around closely-packed plants can help improve airflow, which also prevents the reproduction of the fungus.
Prevention
Prevention
There are a few ways to prevent a powdery Mildew infection from occurring in the first place:
  1. Preemptive chemical controls, including fungicides and non-toxic solutions, can help prevent powdery Mildew from becoming established on plants.
  2. When placing new plants, allow enough space between each one to provide adequate air circulation.
  3. Water at the base of plants rather than from overhead.
  4. Many mildew-resistant strains of common garden plants are available. Consider these in areas that have a Mediterranean climate.
  5. Powdery Mildew can form tiny, round black structures, called cleistothecia, as the growing season draws to a close. These hardy, dry structures help the fungus survive winter. Raking away debris over the winter can remove stowaway cleistothecia and will help prevent plants from being reinfected.
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Leaf beetles
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
  1. Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
  2. Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
  3. Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
  4. Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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distribution

Distribution of Holly olive

Habitat of Holly olive

Evergreen forests
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Holly olive

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
plant_info

Plants Related to Holly olive

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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
The holly olive flourishes when exposed to abundant sunshine throughout the day, yet it has adaptability for moderate sun conditions. In the place of its genesis, it thrives under full day sunlight. Both excessive shade or intense solar exposure can hinder the plant's vigor.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Holly olive thrives in full sunlight but is sensitive to heat. As a plant commonly grown outdoors with abundant sunlight, it may exhibit subtle symptoms of light deficiency when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your holly olive may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Holly olive enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Holly olive thrives in full sun exposure but is sensitive to heat. Although sunburn symptoms occasionally occur, they are unable to withstand intense sunlight in high-temperature environments.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Holly olive prefers a temperature range of 59 to 95 ℉ (15 to 35 ℃). It is native to regions with mild winter climates, such as Japan and China. In colder areas, it may benefit from some winter protection to prevent damage from frost.
Regional wintering strategies
Holly olive has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by wrapping the trunk and branches with materials such as non-woven fabric or cloth. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in %s
Holly olive is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, the branches may become brittle and dry during springtime, and no new shoots will emerge.
Solutions
In spring, prune away any dead branches that have failed to produce new leaves.
Symptoms of High Temperature in %s
During summer, Holly olive should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, the tips may become dry and withered, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Holly Olive?
The best time to transplant holly olive is during the delightful period from mid-spring to mid-summer. Choose a location with well-drained soil, and partial to full sun exposure. As for transplant tips, ensure gentle handling of the delicate root system to encourage successful growth post-transplant.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Holly Olive?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Holly Olive?
The perfect time to relocate holly olive is between late spring and early summer. During this period, the weather is neither too hot nor too cold, aiding in holly olive's root development and establishment. Replanting holly olive at this juncture encourages healthy growth, a more robust root system, and improves its chances of survival, thus offering maximum value. The generous warmth and extended daylight aid in nurturing these newcomers. Be assured, this ideal time ensures a successful transplant, reaping bountiful benefits in return.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Holly Olive Plants?
To give your holly olive enough room to grow and thrive, space each plant about 6-8 feet (1.8-2.4 meters) apart from one another. This will ensure healthy growth and beautiful foliage.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Holly Olive Transplanting?
Plant your holly olive in well-draining, loamy or sandy soil. Enrich the soil with organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, and apply a balanced slow-release fertilizer to set the stage for strong growth.
Where Should You Relocate Your Holly Olive?
Choose a location that receives full sun to partial shade, as holly olive can easily adapt to various light conditions. Ideally, provide 4-6 hours of sunlight daily to support healthy growth and vibrant flowers.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Holly Olive?
Gardening Gloves
To keep your skin protected while you work with the holly olive and the soil.
Spade or Shovel
Vital for digging up the holly olive without damaging its roots, as well as for digging the hole in your transplant location.
Wheelbarrow
To carefully transport your holly olive from the original location to its new location.
Gardening Trowel
For finer work around the root and preparing the transplant hole in the new location.
Organic Compost
To give the holly olive a boost after transplanting, and help the soil hold water and nutrients better.
Watering Can or Hose
To water the plant once it's been transplanted.
How Do You Remove Holly Olive from the Soil?
From Ground: Begin with soaking the soil around the holly olive to make the extraction process easier. Then, using your shovel or spade, start digging a trench around the plant whilst ensuring that the plant's root ball remains unharmed. Carefully go under the root ball to lift the holly olive from its original location.
From Pot: Water the pot to soften the soil, and then carefully remove the holly olive from its pot. Be delicate as not to damage the roots during the process. If the plant doesn't slide out easily, tap the sides of the pot gently to loosen the soil.
From Seedling Tray: Wet the tray in advance to soften the soil. Gently loosen the soil around the holly olive using a small tool or a stick. Never tug on the stem of the plant, always try to lift it by the root ball.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Holly Olive
Prepare the Site
Dig a hole big enough for the holly olive's roots to spread out in. The hole should be 2-3 times wider than the root ball and just as deep as the roots are tall.
Arrange the Plant
Place your holly olive in the hole, making sure it's standing upright and the top of the roots are level with the soil surface. The holly olive should not be planted deeper than it was in its original location.
Refill the Hole
Fill in the hole around the plant, using a mix of original soil and added compost. Make sure there are no air pockets.
Water and compost
Water the holly olive thoroughly after transplanting. Then spread a layer of organic compost around the plant, but, remember not to mound it against the stem of the plant.
How Do You Care For Holly Olive After Transplanting?
Watering
Water the holly olive generously after planting, and keep it consistently damp until you can see new growth showing that it's establishing.
Pruning
After the plant has been settled in its new location and new growth has begun, consider light pruning to stimulate further branching.
Mulching
Using organic matter such as bark, to layer the soil around your [N while keeping a gap around the stem. The mulch will help to maintain soil moisture and deter weeds.
Protect
In its first year, if cold extremes are forecasted, it might be worth protecting your semi-tender holly olive with horticultural fleece to minimize potential damage. Always remember, all plants need time to get settled. Be patient and offer care as needed.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Holly Olive Transplantation.
When is the optimal time to transplant holly olive?
The most suitable time to transplant holly olive is between mid-spring (around March) and mid-summer (around June).
What is the ideal distance to space holly olive plants?
Each holly olive should be planted 6-8 feet (1.8-2.4 meters) apart to allow room for growth and ensure optimal health.
What kind of soil does holly olive need when transplanting?
Holly olive thrives in well-drained, fertile soil. If you're transplanting, ensure you prepare the new area with rich, loose soil.
How deep should I plant holly olive when transplanting?
Transplant holly olive at the same depth it was growing previously. This helps the plant adapt better to its new environment.
What's my first step when transplanting holly olive?
Begin by watering holly olive thoroughly a day or two before transplanting. This helps lessen the shock and ease the transition for the plant.
How do I handle holly olive carefully during transplanting?
Gently but firmly hold holly olive around the base, avoid pulling or disturbing roots. Place it in the new spot with care.
My holly olive looks wilted after transplant. What did I do wrong?
Transplant shock can cause wilting. Ensure you water holly olive well after transplanting and keep it away from extreme heat or wind.
Should holly olive be pruned before or after transplanting?
Prune any dead or damaged branches prior to transplanting. This not only makes the process easier, but also supports healthier growth of holly olive.
Why are leaves of my transplanted holly olive turning yellow?
Yellow leaves may indicate that holly olive is not getting enough water or nutrients. Check the soil's pH levels and ensure it's getting enough water.
Do I need to fertilise holly olive immediately after transplanting?
No, avoid fertilising right after transplanting. Wait for two to three weeks before adding a gentle slow-release fertiliser to encourage holly olive growth.
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