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Jumpseed
Jumpseed
Jumpseed
Jumpseed
Jumpseed
Jumpseed
Jumpseed
Persicaria virginiana
Also known as : Virginia knotweed
Jumpseed (Persicaria virginiana) is a native North American plant related to buckwheat. Its common name jumpseed comes from the fact that the seeds appear to jump when a fully ripe seedpod is disrupted. It can be found throughout most of the central and eastern parts of the United States and Canada.
Planting Time
Planting Time
Fall
care guide

Care Guide for Jumpseed

Watering Care
Watering Care
Jumpseed can grow in most soil types as long as the area is moist and well-draining. Do not let water pool around the plant, but keep the soil damp. Water whenever the soil starts to dry out.
Details on Watering Care Watering Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilizing Care
Repotting jumpseed every year with a fresh soil mix takes care of the plant’s fertilization needs. Garden plants thrive with regular fertilizer applications during the spring and summer. Use a nitrogen-rich fertilizer to encourage growth.
Details on Fertilizing Care Fertilizing Care
Soil Care
Soil Care
Chalky, Clay, Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
Ideal Lighting
Ideal Lighting
Full sun, Partial sun
Details on Sunlight Requirements Ideal Lighting
Ideal Temperature
Ideal Temperature
4 to 10
Details on Temperature Ideal Temperature
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Jumpseed
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
4 to 10
Planting Time
Planting Time
Fall
question

Questions About Jumpseed

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Jumpseed?
When watering the Jumpseed, you should aim to use filtered water that is at room temperature. Filtered water is better for this plant, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to its health. The reason that the water should be at room temperature or slightly warmer is that the Jumpseed comes from a warm environment, and cold water can be somewhat of a shock to its system. Also, you should avoid overhead watering for this plant, as it can cause foliage complications. Instead, simply apply your filtered room temperature water to the soil until the soil is entirely soaked. Soaking the soil can be very beneficial for this plant as it moistens the roots and helps them continue to spread through the soil and collect the nutrients they need.
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What should I do if I water my Jumpseed too much or too little?
Both overwatering and underwatering will be detrimental to the health of your Jumpseed, but overwatering is a far more common issue. When this species receives too much water, its stems and leaves may begin to wilt and turn from green to yellow. Overwatering over a prolonged period may also lead to diseases such as root rot, mold, and mildew, all of which can kill your plant. Underwatering is far less common for the Jumpseed, as this plant has decent drought tolerance. However, underwatering remains a possibility, and when it occurs, you can expect to find that the leaves of your Jumpseed have become brittle and brown.
It is crucial that you notice the signs of overwatering as soon as possible when caring for your Jumpseed. Some of the diseases that arise from overwatering, such as root rot, may not be correctable if you wait too long. If you see early signs of overwatering, you should reduce your watering schedule immediately. You may also want to assess the quality of soil in which your Jumpseed grows. If you find that the soil drains very poorly, you should replace it immediately with a loose, well-draining potting mix. On the other hand, if you find signs that your Jumpseed is receiving too little water, all you need to do is water more regularly until those signs have subsided.
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How often should I water my Jumpseed?
If your plant is in a pot. The most precise way to decide whether your Jumpseed needs water is to plunge your finger into the soil. If you notice that the first two to three inches of soil have become dry, it is time to add some water.
If you grow your Jumpseed outdoors in the ground, you can use a similar method to test the soil. Again, when you find that the first few inches of soil have dried out, it is time to add water. During the spring and early fall, this method will often lead you to water this plant about once every week. When extremely hot weather arrives, you may need to increase your watering frequency to about twice or more per week. With that said, mature, well-established the Jumpseed can show an admirable ability to withstand drought.
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How much water does my Jumpseed need?
When it comes time to water your Jumpseed, you should not be shy about how much water you give. With the first two to three inches of soil dry, this plant will appreciate a long and thorough watering. Supply enough water to soak the soil entirely. The amount of water you add should be enough to cause excess water to flow through the drainage holes at the bottom of your pot. If you don’t see excess water draining from the pot, you have likely underwatered your plant. But do not let the water accumulate inside the soil, which will be very dangerous to the plant as well. Alternatively, a lack of water draining through the pot could indicate poorly draining soils, which is detrimental to the health of this plant and should be avoided. If the plant is outside, 1 inch of rain per week will be sufficient.
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How should I water my Jumpseed at different growth stages?
The water needs of the Jumpseed can change depending on growth stages as well. For example, when your Jumpseed is in the first few years of its life, or if you have just transplanted it to a new growing location, you will need to give more water than usual. During both of those stages, your Jumpseed will put a lot of energy towards sprouting new roots that will then support future growth. For those roots to perform their best, they need a bit more moisture than they would at a more mature phase. After a few seasons, your Jumpseed will need much less water. Another growth stage in which this plant may need more water is during the bloom period. Flower development can make use of a significant amount of moisture, which is why you might need to give your Jumpseed more water at this time.
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How should I water my Jumpseed through the seasons?
The Jumpseed will have its highest water needs during the hottest months of the year. During the height of summer, you may need to give this plant water more than once per week, depending on how fast the soil dries out. The opposite is true during the winter. In winter, your plant will enter a dormant phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. In fact, you may not need to water this plant at all during the winter months. However, if you do water during winter, you should not do so more than about once per month. Watering too much at this time will make it more likely that your Jumpseed will contract a disease.
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What's the difference between watering my Jumpseed indoors and outdoors?
It is most common to grow the Jumpseed indoors for any gardener that does not live in temperate and tropical regions. Those gardeners should consider the fact that soil in a container can dry out a bit faster than ground soil. Also, the presence of drying elements such as air conditioning units can cause your Jumpseed to need water on a more frequent basis as well. if you planted it outside. When that is the case, it’s likely you won’t need to water your Jumpseed very much at all. If you receive rainfall on a regular basis, that may be enough to keep your plant alive. Alternatively, those who grow this plant inside will need to water it more often, as allowing rainwater to soak the soil will not be an option.
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Key Facts About Jumpseed

Attributes of Jumpseed

Lifespan
Perennial, Annual
Plant Type
Herb
Planting Time
Fall
Bloom Time
Summer, Early fall, Mid fall
Harvest Time
Mid summer, Mid fall
Plant Height
45 cm to 1.3 m
Spread
90 cm to 1.2 m
Leaf Color
Green
Yellow
Red
Variegated
Brown
Flower Size
7 mm to 1.5 cm
Flower Color
White
Pink
Fruit Color
White
Stem Color
Green
Red
Dormancy
Winter dormancy
Leaf type
Semi-evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 35 ℃

Name story

Jumpseed
It is unusual as a shade-tolerant member to be classified in the most sun-loving genus. Jumpseed is a perennial named from its seeds which can "jump" several feet when a ripe seedpod is disturbed.

Symbolism

Restoration

Usages

Garden Use
Though rarely used in gardens, jumpseed has its perks. It is easy to care for, adds a naturalistic appearance to garden beds as a border, and makes for a great accent to taller, more vibrant plants. Typically, when jumpseed is cultivated, it is in cottage or woodland gardens.

Scientific Classification of Jumpseed

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Jumpseed

Common issues for Jumpseed based on 10 million real cases
Caterpillars
Caterpillars Caterpillars
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Leaf miners
Leaf miners Leaf miners
Leaf miners
Leaf miners scar the leaves with curved white streaks or rounded white spots with brown centers.
Solutions: Leaf miners, although relatively harmless at first, can quickly multiply and devastate your plants in the coming weeks. For severe cases: Spray an organic insecticide. For an organic solution, spray a diluted mixture of azadirachtin, a compound derived from neem seeds, above and below leaves. Spray a synthetic insecticide. Spray a product that contains spinosad, such as Entrust, making sure to cover all sides of the leaves. Introduce beneficial insects. Introduce beneficial insects that eat leaf miners, such as parasitic wasps or Syrphid flies. For less severe cases: Prune infected tissue. Remove and dispose of leaves that have any sign of leaf miner damage.
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
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Caterpillars
plant poor
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
  1. Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
  2. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
  1. Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
  2. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
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Leaf miners
plant poor
Leaf miners
Leaf miners scar the leaves with curved white streaks or rounded white spots with brown centers.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The leaves on your plants are showing clear/white trails, which appear like parts have been hollowed out. These trails are narrow at first and become wide patches over time. In some cases, leaves will be completely hollow and dry on the plant. As the name suggests, leaf miners are responsible.
Leaf miners are most common in the early spring when they begin to hatch and reproduce. They are tiny 1/16th inch larvae that resemble small grains of rice. The larvae are found inside leaves. The adult stage, a fly, lays eggs in between the layers of a leaf. When the eggs hatch, the larvae eat the tender nutritious inner leaves.
Solutions
Solutions
Leaf miners, although relatively harmless at first, can quickly multiply and devastate your plants in the coming weeks.
For severe cases:
  1. Spray an organic insecticide. For an organic solution, spray a diluted mixture of azadirachtin, a compound derived from neem seeds, above and below leaves.
  2. Spray a synthetic insecticide. Spray a product that contains spinosad, such as Entrust, making sure to cover all sides of the leaves.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Introduce beneficial insects that eat leaf miners, such as parasitic wasps or Syrphid flies.
For less severe cases:
  1. Prune infected tissue. Remove and dispose of leaves that have any sign of leaf miner damage.
Prevention
Prevention
Although leaf miners are easy to control, preventing them is ideal. Our recommendations are:
  1. Physically exclude adults. Cover plants with floating row covers as soon as you put them in the ground.
  2. Remove weeds and debris. Keep your garden weeded to lower the number of plants leaf miners can feed and breed on.
  3. Avoid introducing infected plants. Carefully inspect new plants for leaf miners before adding them to your garden or home.
  4. Avoid broad-spectrum pesticides. Leaf miners can usually be controlled by natural predatory insects. Do not apply broad-spectrum insecticides that could harm these beneficial insects.
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Underwatering
plant poor
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
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Sap-sucking insects
plant poor
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
  1. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
  2. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
  3. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
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weed

Weed Control About Jumpseed

Weeds
It is an unwanted plant because it competes with other valuable or cultivated plants.
How to Control it
Once the weeds start to flower and fructify, it will be difficult to control them effectively. In fact, the best time to remove weeds is before flowering and fructification because the seeds will spread rapidly after that. So, it is necessary to remove weeds more often and to take precautions in advance next year. Mulching: During the seed stage, covering with sawdust, straws or black mulches to effectively inhibit seed germination and the growth of the seedling. Generally, this method is used in winter or spring to inhibit the germination of weed in the soil. If the weeds have already flowered and fructified, this method can be used to isolate the seeds and the soil to prevent the seeds from falling into the soil. Pulling out: Before the weeds fructify, wear gloves or use tools to pull them out. If it is difficult to pull out weed due to dry soil, adding water to the soil helps to make it easy to remove the roots thoroughly. After pulling out the weed, deep tillage can be adopted to remove the residual roots. This method is especially effective for weeds that are in the seedling stage or low growing size. Pruning: Pruning weeds before they fructify can effectively control the propagation of weeds, especially for annual weeds. Frequent pruning can inhibit the growth and fructification of weeds and effectively them in the same year. Plowing: Before cultivation, plow the soil, collect and discard the roots of perennial weeds, then expose them to the sun or bury them deeply. It can also be used for retting organic fertilizer and composting. Chemical control: Using appropriate herbicides can effectively remove the weed from the area. Note: When removing weeds, it is necessary to wear gloves to avoid direct contact with the weeds, especially for the ones that are poisonous, thorny and allergenic. When removing weeds at the flowering stage, special masks should be worn to prevent allergic reactions caused by the inhalation of pollen.
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distribution

Distribution of Jumpseed

Habitat of Jumpseed

Riverbanks, woods, cliffs, rocks, medium to moist soil
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Jumpseed

Jumpseed is native to eastern North America, reaching from Ontario to Mexico. It has been introduced into parts of China, Bangladesh and India. Its preferred habitat is shady areas on cliffs, woodland edges, rocks, and stream or riverbanks.
distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
habit
care_scenes

More Info on Jumpseed Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
Jumpseed favors strong, steady light exposure for optimal growth. It can also withstand moderate light scenarios, though it may not grow as vigorously. Originating from areas with abundant sun exposure, this plant thrives in similar conditions. Insufficient sunlight may lead to weak, spindly growth while excessive exposure could cause leaf burn.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
0 - 41 ℃
Jumpseed is native to environments where the average temperature ranges between 68 to 95 °F (20 to 35 ℃). It thrives in climates reflecting this range year-round, however, implementing shade during hotter periods could help it adapt.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
1-2 feet
The ideal time to transplant jumpseed is during S1, typically in the cool, early spring when the plant is dormant, enhancing growth and survival chances. Jumpseed flourishes best in partial to full shade, and moist, well-drained soil. When transplanting, gently handle the root-ball to avoid damage, ensuring a successful transition.
Transplant Techniques
Pruning
Spring, Summer
Native to woodlands and meadows, jumpseed is recognized for its vivid foliage and wand-like flower spikes. Ideal pruning occurs from early spring to late summer, facilitating removal of dead or damaged stems and encouraging a dense habit. Prune back hard in spring for rejuvenation, and deadhead regularly to prevent self-seeding. Benefits include enhanced vigor and prolonged bloom, ensuring jumpseed remains an attractive, well-maintained garden feature.
Pruning techniques
Feng shui direction
North
Jumpseed complements North facing spaces in Feng Shui practice, due to its resilient energy and adaptability mirroring the agile properties of water, a primary element of the North direction. Though, individual experiences may vary, respecting the subjective nature of Feng Shui.
Fengshui Details
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Jumpseed
Jumpseed
Jumpseed
Jumpseed
Jumpseed
Jumpseed
Jumpseed
Persicaria virginiana
Also known as: Virginia knotweed
Jumpseed (Persicaria virginiana) is a native North American plant related to buckwheat. Its common name jumpseed comes from the fact that the seeds appear to jump when a fully ripe seedpod is disrupted. It can be found throughout most of the central and eastern parts of the United States and Canada.
Planting Time
Planting Time
Fall
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Questions About Jumpseed

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Jumpseed?
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plant_info

Key Facts About Jumpseed

Attributes of Jumpseed

Lifespan
Perennial, Annual
Plant Type
Herb
Planting Time
Fall
Bloom Time
Summer, Early fall, Mid fall
Harvest Time
Mid summer, Mid fall
Plant Height
45 cm to 1.3 m
Spread
90 cm to 1.2 m
Leaf Color
Green
Yellow
Red
Variegated
Brown
Flower Size
7 mm to 1.5 cm
Flower Color
White
Pink
Fruit Color
White
Stem Color
Green
Red
Dormancy
Winter dormancy
Leaf type
Semi-evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 35 ℃
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Name story

Jumpseed
It is unusual as a shade-tolerant member to be classified in the most sun-loving genus. Jumpseed is a perennial named from its seeds which can "jump" several feet when a ripe seedpod is disturbed.

Symbolism

Restoration

Usages

Garden Use
Though rarely used in gardens, jumpseed has its perks. It is easy to care for, adds a naturalistic appearance to garden beds as a border, and makes for a great accent to taller, more vibrant plants. Typically, when jumpseed is cultivated, it is in cottage or woodland gardens.

Scientific Classification of Jumpseed

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Jumpseed

Common issues for Jumpseed based on 10 million real cases
Caterpillars
Caterpillars Caterpillars Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Learn More About the Caterpillars more
Leaf miners
Leaf miners Leaf miners Leaf miners
Leaf miners scar the leaves with curved white streaks or rounded white spots with brown centers.
Solutions: Leaf miners, although relatively harmless at first, can quickly multiply and devastate your plants in the coming weeks. For severe cases: Spray an organic insecticide. For an organic solution, spray a diluted mixture of azadirachtin, a compound derived from neem seeds, above and below leaves. Spray a synthetic insecticide. Spray a product that contains spinosad, such as Entrust, making sure to cover all sides of the leaves. Introduce beneficial insects. Introduce beneficial insects that eat leaf miners, such as parasitic wasps or Syrphid flies. For less severe cases: Prune infected tissue. Remove and dispose of leaves that have any sign of leaf miner damage.
Learn More About the Leaf miners more
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Learn More About the Underwatering more
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects Sap-sucking insects Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Learn More About the Sap-sucking insects more
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Caterpillars
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
  1. Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
  2. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
  1. Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
  2. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
  1. Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
  2. Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
  3. Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
  4. Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Leaf miners
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Leaf miners
Leaf miners scar the leaves with curved white streaks or rounded white spots with brown centers.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The leaves on your plants are showing clear/white trails, which appear like parts have been hollowed out. These trails are narrow at first and become wide patches over time. In some cases, leaves will be completely hollow and dry on the plant. As the name suggests, leaf miners are responsible.
Leaf miners are most common in the early spring when they begin to hatch and reproduce. They are tiny 1/16th inch larvae that resemble small grains of rice. The larvae are found inside leaves. The adult stage, a fly, lays eggs in between the layers of a leaf. When the eggs hatch, the larvae eat the tender nutritious inner leaves.
Solutions
Solutions
Leaf miners, although relatively harmless at first, can quickly multiply and devastate your plants in the coming weeks.
For severe cases:
  1. Spray an organic insecticide. For an organic solution, spray a diluted mixture of azadirachtin, a compound derived from neem seeds, above and below leaves.
  2. Spray a synthetic insecticide. Spray a product that contains spinosad, such as Entrust, making sure to cover all sides of the leaves.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Introduce beneficial insects that eat leaf miners, such as parasitic wasps or Syrphid flies.
For less severe cases:
  1. Prune infected tissue. Remove and dispose of leaves that have any sign of leaf miner damage.
Prevention
Prevention
Although leaf miners are easy to control, preventing them is ideal. Our recommendations are:
  1. Physically exclude adults. Cover plants with floating row covers as soon as you put them in the ground.
  2. Remove weeds and debris. Keep your garden weeded to lower the number of plants leaf miners can feed and breed on.
  3. Avoid introducing infected plants. Carefully inspect new plants for leaf miners before adding them to your garden or home.
  4. Avoid broad-spectrum pesticides. Leaf miners can usually be controlled by natural predatory insects. Do not apply broad-spectrum insecticides that could harm these beneficial insects.
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Underwatering
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
  • Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
  • Avoid warm temperatures
  • Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
  • Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Sap-sucking insects
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Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
  1. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
  2. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
  3. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
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weed

Weed Control About Jumpseed

weed
Weeds
It is an unwanted plant because it competes with other valuable or cultivated plants.
How to Control it
Once the weeds start to flower and fructify, it will be difficult to control them effectively. In fact, the best time to remove weeds is before flowering and fructification because the seeds will spread rapidly after that. So, it is necessary to remove weeds more often and to take precautions in advance next year. Mulching: During the seed stage, covering with sawdust, straws or black mulches to effectively inhibit seed germination and the growth of the seedling. Generally, this method is used in winter or spring to inhibit the germination of weed in the soil. If the weeds have already flowered and fructified, this method can be used to isolate the seeds and the soil to prevent the seeds from falling into the soil. Pulling out: Before the weeds fructify, wear gloves or use tools to pull them out. If it is difficult to pull out weed due to dry soil, adding water to the soil helps to make it easy to remove the roots thoroughly. After pulling out the weed, deep tillage can be adopted to remove the residual roots. This method is especially effective for weeds that are in the seedling stage or low growing size. Pruning: Pruning weeds before they fructify can effectively control the propagation of weeds, especially for annual weeds. Frequent pruning can inhibit the growth and fructification of weeds and effectively them in the same year. Plowing: Before cultivation, plow the soil, collect and discard the roots of perennial weeds, then expose them to the sun or bury them deeply. It can also be used for retting organic fertilizer and composting. Chemical control: Using appropriate herbicides can effectively remove the weed from the area. Note: When removing weeds, it is necessary to wear gloves to avoid direct contact with the weeds, especially for the ones that are poisonous, thorny and allergenic. When removing weeds at the flowering stage, special masks should be worn to prevent allergic reactions caused by the inhalation of pollen.
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distribution

Distribution of Jumpseed

Habitat of Jumpseed

Riverbanks, woods, cliffs, rocks, medium to moist soil
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Jumpseed

Jumpseed is native to eastern North America, reaching from Ontario to Mexico. It has been introduced into parts of China, Bangladesh and India. Its preferred habitat is shady areas on cliffs, woodland edges, rocks, and stream or riverbanks.
distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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Plants Related to Jumpseed

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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Jumpseed favors strong, steady light exposure for optimal growth. It can also withstand moderate light scenarios, though it may not grow as vigorously. Originating from areas with abundant sun exposure, this plant thrives in similar conditions. Insufficient sunlight may lead to weak, spindly growth while excessive exposure could cause leaf burn.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Jumpseed thrives in full sunlight and is commonly grown outdoors where it receives ample sunlight. When placed in rooms with inadequate lighting, symptoms of light deficiency may not be readily apparent.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your jumpseed may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Jumpseed enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Jumpseed thrives in full sun exposure and can tolerate intense sunlight. With their remarkable resilience, symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible, as they rarely suffer from it.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Jumpseed is native to environments where the average temperature ranges between 68 to 95 °F (20 to 35 ℃). It thrives in climates reflecting this range year-round, however, implementing shade during hotter periods could help it adapt.
Regional wintering strategies
Jumpseed has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by covering the plant with materials such as soil or straw. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in %s
Jumpseed is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, there may be a decrease in sprouting or even no sprouting during springtime.
Solutions
In spring, remove any parts that have failed to sprout.
Symptoms of High Temperature in %s
During summer, Jumpseed should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, prone to curling, susceptible to sunburn, and in severe cases, the entire plant may wilt and become dry.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Jumpseed?
The ideal time to transplant jumpseed is during S1, typically in the cool, early spring when the plant is dormant, enhancing growth and survival chances. Jumpseed flourishes best in partial to full shade, and moist, well-drained soil. When transplanting, gently handle the root-ball to avoid damage, ensuring a successful transition.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Jumpseed?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Jumpseed?
The superb season for transplanting jumpseed would be spring; the progress of mild warmth suits jumpseed's necessities ideally. Transplanting during spring promotes sturdier root development, providing jumpseed a strong foundation to grow healthily. Kindly note, your jumpseed will thank you for choosing this impeccable timing.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Jumpseed Plants?
To give your jumpseed enough room to grow, keep a spacing of about 1-2 feet (30-60 cm) between each plant. This space will ensure they aren't competing for resources, providing each jumpseed enough nutrients and water to grow healthy and strong.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Jumpseed Transplanting?
Your jumpseed will thrive in a well-drained soil that's rich in organic matter. A good base fertilizer to prepare your soil could be a slow-release, balanced variety with equal parts nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Remember, your jumpseed will thank you for a fertile, well-prepared soil!
Where Should You Relocate Your Jumpseed?
Your jumpseed loves the sun but appreciates a bit of afternoon shade. Choose a location for transplanting where it can enjoy full morning sunlight, yet be sheltered from the intense heat of late afternoons. Don't worry, your jumpseed is adaptable and will reward you with a delightful growth in these conditions!
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Jumpseed?
Gardening Gloves
These will protect your hands while working with the soil and jumpseed plant.
Spade or Shovel
An essential tool for digging up the jumpseed plant from its original location and for the new planting hole.
Garden Fork
This can be used to carefully loosen the soil around the roots of the jumpseed plant.
Gardening Trowel
This will be needed for adding additional soil around the jumpseed after it has been transplanted.
Watering Can/Hose with a gentle spray setting
For watering the jumpseed during and after the transplanting process.
Mulch
To help retain soil moisture around the newly planted jumpseed.
How Do You Remove Jumpseed from the Soil?
From Ground: Water the jumpseed plant to lightly dampen the soil around the roots. This will make it easier to remove the plant without damaging it. Dig a wide trench around the plant with your spade or shovel, taking care to keep the plant's root ball intact. Use a garden fork to help loosen the soil and free the roots. Once the roots are free, gently lift the plant from the soil.
From Pot: Water the jumpseed in its pot, then slightly tip it to the side and tap the bottom to loosen the plant and soil. Carefully slide the jumpseed out of its pot, being careful not to damage the root ball.
From Seedling Tray: Water the seedlings and then gently press under each cell or pot to lift the jumpseed seedlings out. Never pull the seedlings by their stems, since these are fragile and could be easily damaged.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Jumpseed
Digging the Hole
Use your spade to dig a hole that is two times wider and the same depth as the jumpseed's root ball.
Placing the Plant
Place the jumpseed in the hole, ensuring that the top of the root ball is level with the ground surface. This will keep the plant from being planted too deep or too shallow.
Backfilling
Backfill the hole with the same soil that was removed, using your gardening trowel. Be sure not to pack the soil too tightly around the roots.
Watering
Water the jumpseed using a watering can or hose set on a gentle spray. Make sure the soil is well-saturated.
Mulching
Apply a layer of mulch around the base of the jumpseed, but not touching the stem. This will help to retain soil moisture.
How Do You Care For Jumpseed After Transplanting?
Watering
Ensure the jumpseed is watered frequently for several weeks after transplanting. This will help the plant establish strong roots in its new location.
Pruning
Remove any dead or damaged leaves from the jumpseed to promote new growth and minimize stress on the plant.
Monitoring
Keep an eye on the jumpseed for the first few weeks after transplanting. If the plant shows signs of distress, such as wilting or yellow leaves, you may need to adjust your watering or check for pests.
Patience
Remember, it can take some time for the jumpseed to adjust to its new location. Don’t worry if it doesn’t show immediate growth, and be patient.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Jumpseed Transplantation.
When is the prime time to transplant jumpseed?
The most favorable period for transplanting jumpseed is in S1, when you'll witness superior root development and plant establishment.
What is the adequate spacing required while planting jumpseed?
Space jumpseed 1-2 feet apart (approximately 30-60 cm). This allows enough growth room and promotes healthy cultivation.
What happens if jumpseed is transplanted at the wrong time?
Transplanting jumpseed outside of S1 may result in slower growth, stress symptoms, and a higher risk of pest infestation.
Why are properly spaced plantings of jumpseed important?
Proper spacing allows sufficient sunlight and air circulation, reducing susceptibility to disease and enhancing overall health.
How deep should jumpseed be planted?
The root-ball of jumpseed should be level with the soil surface to promote optimal growth.
How much watering does jumpseed need post-transplant?
Keep jumpseed well-hydrated but avoid overwatering. Assess soil moisture levels regularly to prevent root diseases.
What soil type does jumpseed prefer to grow in?
Jumpseed flourishes best in well-draining, fertile soil, but it can tolerate a variety of soil conditions.
Should I fertilize jumpseed after transplanting?
Fertilizing boosts jumpseed's post-transplant growth. Use an all-purpose, slow-release product for superior results.
How to reduce transplant shock in jumpseed?
Minimize root disturbances, water well, and provide shade if possible to help jumpseed to overcome transplant shock.
What if jumpseed shows no improvement after transplanting?
If jumpseed shows no improvement post-transplant, it may need a more suitable location or specific care. Consult a horticulturist if necessary.
Discover information about plant diseases, toxicity, weed control and more.
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