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Add to My Garden Aphrodite's phalaenopsis
Phalaenopsis aphrodite
Also known as: Moth orchid
Aphrodite's phalaenopsis is a Northeast and Southeast Asia native plant. It has glossy, evergreen foliage and yellow-white blooms as attributes. In addition, this plant is easy to grow as long as it receives proper care.
Spring, Fall
Planting Time
Care Guide for Aphrodite's phalaenopsis
Aphrodite's phalaenopsis should be watered sparingly from early spring until late winter. The leaves of aphrodite's phalaenopsis can be misted daily to maintain optimal humidity. This species requires a well-draining pot and should not be left sitting in any stagnant water.
It is advisible to use a specially formulated orchid fertilizer when feeding aphrodite's phalaenopsis, specifically, one with either a 20-10-20 or 20-20-20 nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium formulation. The orchid grower's mantra has been quoted as "fertilize weakly, weekly," indicating a diluted fertilizer can be used on a weekly basis.
Trim the diseased, withered leaves once a month.
Neutral
Potted phalaenopsis aphrodite does not need large pots, because aquatic plants in large pots are not dried easily and phalaenopsis aphrodite prefers a ventilated environment.
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Aphrodite's phalaenopsis
Sunlight
Partial sun
Hardiness Zones
10 to 12
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
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Aphrodite's phalaenopsis
Sunlight
Partial sun
Hardiness Zones
10 to 12
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
Download
Aphrodite's phalaenopsis
Sunlight
Partial sun
Hardiness Zones
10 to 12
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
Download
Questions About Aphrodite's phalaenopsis
Watering 
Pruning 
Temperature 
Fertilizing What should I do if I water my Aphrodite's phalaenopsis too much or too little?
Overwatered Aphrodite's phalaenopsis
Symptoms of overwatering include limp and wrinkled leaves, yellowing or decay, and general failure to thrive. When Aphrodite's phalaenopsis owners see their plant’s leaves looking limp and shriveled, they can sometimes assume that is a sign that it isn’t getting enough water so they keep adding more. This just compounds the problem, so it’s important to look beyond the leaves to identify what’s happening with the roots. Healthy Aphrodite's phalaenopsis roots are silvery green, green, or white and feel firm to the touch. When Aphrodite's phalaenopsis has been overwatered, the roots will look mushy, limp, and brown or black in color.
Rescue an overwatered Aphrodite's phalaenopsis by cutting off any rotted roots with a sterile knife or garden shears and repotting them into a new growing medium. It is always better to avoid overwatering because it is possible you won’t be able to save your plant if root rot sets in, so be conservative with water to avoid this issue.
Underwatered Aphrodite's phalaenopsis
Unfortunately, the initial symptoms of underwatering and overwatering are almost identical in Aphrodite's phalaenopsis. Check the growing medium with your finger or a moisture meter to get a sense of how much water is being retained. You may need to increase the frequency of watering to get back on track with watering.
Once again, the best way to understand the situation is to take a look at the roots. Underwatered roots look crisp, brown, and brittle. Healthy roots are pliable and green, so the difference should be obvious. Luckily it’s easy to revive a thirsty Aphrodite's phalaenopsis, as long as the plant still has some healthy roots left.
Trim off any dried up or dead root pieces, as they won’t be able to come back to life. Then repot the plant and water thoroughly. Within a week or two, shriveled and limp leaves should start to firm up and look healthy. If the leaves are too damaged to be revived once you water them thoroughly, they can be removed to make room for new growth.
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Free
How often should I water my Aphrodite's phalaenopsis?
Regardless of which type of medium you use, your Aphrodite's phalaenopsis should be watered when the mix is mostly but not completely dry. This can vary depending on the environmental conditions, but generally it will be about once or twice a week in summer and as infrequently as once every 2 weeks in winter.
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How to water Aphrodite's phalaenopsis?
Aphrodite's phalaenopsis is a epithet plant, which means that they do not grow in soil as most plants do. In order to grow a happy and healthy Aphrodite's phalaenopsis, you’ll need to choose your growing medium carefully.
Regardless of what your Aphrodite's phalaenopsis grows in, the container needs to have plenty of drainage holes. Aphrodite's phalaenopsis pots are specifically designed to hold a chunky potting mix with lots of ventilation compared to other plant pots. They also tend to be tall and narrow, allowing air to circulate around the center of the roots, not just the edges.
One popular potting medium for Aphrodite's phalaenopsis and other Aphrodite's phalaenopsis is bark. It is generally sourced from fir trees and drains very well. Since Aphrodite's phalaenopsis grows on bark in the wild, it makes sense that they would do well with a similar substrate when grown indoors. The disadvantage of using bark is that the plant needs watering more often since bark dries out quickly.
The other common planting medium for orchids in sphagnum moss. Most commercially grown Aphrodite's phalaenopsis specimens will be sold in moss, because it is lightweight, cheap, and it allows nurseries to water less often. Unfortunately, sphagnum moss is not very forgiving for those who aren't experts in orchids. Because it is extremely absorbent, moss runs the risk of holding too much water next to the roots, resulting in root rot.
If your Aphrodite's phalaenopsis is planted in sphagnum and you plan to keep it that way, be very judicious in your watering. Less is more when it comes to watering in general, and it is quite difficult to reverse root rot once it has set in.
Watering your Aphrodite's phalaenopsis from below is recommended, as this allows you to avoid splashing water on the leaves, stem, and flowers. To water from below, set the pot into a container of water and allow the roots to soak up moisture for 10-15 minutes. Normally, you can stop this process when the surface of sphagnum is wet. Drain thoroughly before returning your Aphrodite's phalaenopsis to its normal location, as these plants hate to sit in water.
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More Questions People Also Ask
How much water does aphrodite's phalaenopsis need?
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What do you do with a aphrodite's phalaenopsis after the blooms fall off?
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What does aphrodite's phalaenopsis symbolize?
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Aphrodite's phalaenopsis based on 10 million real cases
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
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Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
- Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
- If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
- Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
- Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
- Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
- Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
- Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
- Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
- A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
- Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
- Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
- Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
- Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
- Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
- Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
- Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
- Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
- Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
- Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
- Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
- Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
- Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
- Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
- Avoid warm temperatures
- Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
- Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Distribution Map
Habitat
Primary and secondary forests
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Pink
Purple
Bloom Time
Late spring, Summer, Early fall
Leaf Color
Green
Name story
Moon orchid
This plant is the national flower of Indonesia and it is called "Anggrek Bulan" in Indonesia in which refers to the meaning of moon orchid. Today, this Indonesian name has become the common name for the plant.
Symbolism
Love, happiness, strength, wealth, luxury, virility
Usages
Artistic Value
Phalaenopsis aphrodite draws its long pedicels from the axil and blooms like butterflies, known as the "Queen of Cattleya".
Garden Use
Aphrodite's phalaenopsis have long lasting, perfumed white blooms and evergreen foliage. Popular for use indoors and outdoors in partial shaded conditions, this plant can be hung in a shady tree and thrive.
Scientific Classification
Phylum
Vascular plants Class
Monocotyledons Order
Asparagus and allies Family
Orchid Genus
Moth orchids Species
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Add to My Garden Aphrodite's phalaenopsis
Phalaenopsis aphrodite
Also known as: Moth orchid
Spring, Fall
Planting Time
Care Guide for Aphrodite's phalaenopsis
Water
Aphrodite's phalaenopsis should be watered sparingly from early spring until late winter. The leaves of aphrodite's phalaenopsis can be misted daily to maintain optimal humidity. This species requires a well-draining pot and should not be left sitting in any stagnant water.
Fertilization
It is advisible to use a specially formulated orchid fertilizer when feeding aphrodite's phalaenopsis, specifically, one with either a 20-10-20 or 20-20-20 nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium formulation. The orchid grower's mantra has been quoted as "fertilize weakly, weekly," indicating a diluted fertilizer can be used on a weekly basis.
Pruning
Trim the diseased, withered leaves once a month.
Soil
Neutral
Potting Suggestions
Potted phalaenopsis aphrodite does not need large pots, because aquatic plants in large pots are not dried easily and phalaenopsis aphrodite prefers a ventilated environment.
Tips, advice, and instructions for over 13,000 species that you will find nowhere else
Aphrodite's phalaenopsis
Phalaenopsis aphrodite
Sunlight
Partial sun
Hardiness Zones
10 to 12
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
Download
Questions About Aphrodite's phalaenopsis
Watering Pruning Temperature Fertilizing What should I do if I water my Aphrodite's phalaenopsis too much or too little?
Free
How often should I water my Aphrodite's phalaenopsis?
How to water Aphrodite's phalaenopsis?
You’ve got questions. We’ve got answers.
Let us help take all the guesswork out of your gardening.
More Questions People Also Ask
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Aphrodite's phalaenopsis based on 10 million real cases
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Learn More ![more]()
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More ![more]()
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Learn More ![more]()
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
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Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
- Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
- If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
- Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
- Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
- Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
- Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
- Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
- Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
- A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
- Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
- Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
- Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
- Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
- Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
- Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
- Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
- Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
- Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
- Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
- Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
- Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
- Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
- Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
- Avoid warm temperatures
- Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
- Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Distribution Map
Habitat
Primary and secondary forests
Map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Pink
Purple
Bloom Time
Late spring, Summer, Early fall
Leaf Color
Green
Name story
Moon orchid
This plant is the national flower of Indonesia and it is called "Anggrek Bulan" in Indonesia in which refers to the meaning of moon orchid. Today, this Indonesian name has become the common name for the plant.
Symbolism
Love, happiness, strength, wealth, luxury, virility
Usages
Artistic Value
Phalaenopsis aphrodite draws its long pedicels from the axil and blooms like butterflies, known as the "Queen of Cattleya".
Garden Use
Aphrodite's phalaenopsis have long lasting, perfumed white blooms and evergreen foliage. Popular for use indoors and outdoors in partial shaded conditions, this plant can be hung in a shady tree and thrive.
Scientific Classification
Phylum
Vascular plants Class
Monocotyledons Order
Asparagus and allies Family
Orchid Genus
Moth orchids Species
Aphrodite's phalaenopsis Related Plants
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