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Lily of the valley bush
Lily of the valley bush
Lily of the valley bush
Lily of the valley bush
Lily of the valley bush
Lily of the valley bush
Lily of the valley bush
Pieris formosa
Also known as : Himalayan andromeda, Himalayan pieris, Pearl Flower
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Care Guide for Lily of the valley bush

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Sand, Loam, Acidic
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Questions About Lily of the valley bush

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What is the best way to water my Lily of the valley bush?
Your Lily of the valley bush will not be too picky about how you choose to water it. As such, you can use just about any common watering tool to moisten this plant’s soil. Watering cans, hoses, and even cups will work just fine when it is time to water your Lily of the valley bush. Regardless of which watering tool you use, you should typically apply the water directly to the soil. In doing so, you should ensure that you moisten all soil areas equally to give all parts of the root system the water it needs. It can help to use filtered water, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to plants. It is also beneficial to use water that is at or slightly above room temperature, as colder or hotter water can be somewhat shocking to the Lily of the valley bush. However, the Lily of the valley bush usually responds well to any kind of water you give it.
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What should I do if I water my Lily of the valley bush too much or too little?
For outdoor plants, especially newly planted plants or plant seedlings, they can be prone to lack of watering. Remember that you need to keep watering enough for a few months when the tree is small or just planted. This is because once the roots are established, Lily of the valley bush can rely on rain most of the time. When your Lily of the valley bush is planted in pots, overwatering is often more likely to.When you accidentally overwater your Lily of the valley bush, you should be prepared to remedy the situation immediately. First, you should stop watering your plant right away to minimize the effect of your overwatering. After, you should consider removing your Lily of the valley bush from its pot to inspect its roots. If you find that none of the roots have developed root rot, it may be permissible to return your plant to its container. If you do discover signs of root rot, then you should trim away any roots that have been affected. You may also want to apply a fungicide to prevent further damage. Lastly, you should repot your Lily of the valley bush in soil that is well-draining. In the case of an underwatered Lily of the valley bush, simply water this plant more frequently. Underwatering is often an easy fix. If you underwater, the plant's leaves will tend to droop and dry out and fall off, and the leaves will quickly return to fullness after sufficient watering. Please correct your watering frequency as soon as underwatering occurs.
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How often should I water my Lily of the valley bush?
Most plants that grow naturally outdoors can be allowed to grow normally with rainfall. If your area lacks rainfall, consider giving your plants adequate watering every 2 weeks during the spring and fall. More frequent watering is needed in summer. In winter, when growth becomes slower and plants need less water, water more sparingly. Throughout the winter, you may not give it additional watering at all. If your Lily of the valley bush is young or newly planted, then you should water more frequently to help it establish, and mature and grow up to have more adaptable and drought tolerant plants. For potted plants, there are two main ways that you can determine how often to water your Lily of the valley bush. The first way is to set a predetermined watering schedule. If you choose this route, you should plan to water this plant about once every week or once every other week. However, this approach may not always work as it does not consider the unique conditions of the growing environment for your Lily of the valley bush . Your watering frequency can also change depending on the season. For instance, a predetermined watering schedule will likely not suffice during summer when this plant's water needs are highest. An alternative route is to set your watering frequency based on soil moisture. Typically, it is best to wait until the first two to four inches of soil, usually ⅓ to ½ depth of the pots, have dried out entirely before you give more water.
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How much water does my Lily of the valley bush need?
When it comes time to water your Lily of the valley bush, you may be surprised to find that this plant does not always need a high volume of water. Instead, if only a few inches of soil have dried since your last watering, you can support healthy growth in the Lily of the valley bush by giving it about five to ten ounces of water every time you water. You can also decide your water volume based on soil moisture. As mentioned above, you should note how many inches of soil have dried out between waterings. A surefire way to make sure your Lily of the valley bush gets the moisture it needs is to supply enough water to moisten all the soil layers that became dry since the last time you watered. If more than half of the soil has become dry, you should consider giving more water than usual. In those cases, continue adding water until you see excess water draining from your pot’s drainage holes. If your Lily of the valley bush is planted in an area that gets plenty of rain outdoors, it may not need additional watering. When the Lily of the valley bush is young or just getting established, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As it continues to grow and establish, it can survive entirely on rainwater and only when the weather is hot and there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving your Lily of the valley bush a full watering to prevent them from suffering stress.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Lily of the valley bush enough?
Overwatering is a far more common problem for the Lily of the valley bush, and there are several signs you should look for when this occurs. Generally, an overwatered Lily of the valley bush will have yellowing leaves and may even drop some leaves. Also, overwatering can cause the overall structure of your plant to shrivel and may also promote root rot. On the other hand, an underwatered Lily of the valley bush will also begin to wilt. It may also display leaves that are brown or brittle to the touch. Whether you see signs of overwatering or underwatering, you should be prepared to intervene and restore the health of your Lily of the valley bush.
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How can I water my Lily of the valley bush at different growth stages?
When the Lily of the valley bush is very young, such as when it is in a seedling stage, you will need to give it more water than you would if it were at a mature age. During the early stages of this plant’s life, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist to encourage root development. The same is true for any Lily of the valley bush that you have transplanted to a new growing location. Also, the Lily of the valley bush can develop showy flowers and fruits when you give them the correct care. If your Lily of the valley bush is in a flowering or fruiting phase, you will likely need to give a bit more water than you usually would to support these plant structures.
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How can I water my Lily of the valley bush through the seasons?
The seasonal changes will affect how often you water your Lily of the valley bush. Mainly, during the hottest summer months, you will likely need to increase how much you water this plant, especially if it grows in an area that receives ample sunlight. Strong summer sunlight can cause soil to dry out much faster than usual, meaning that you’ll need to water more frequently. By contrast, your Lily of the valley bush will need much less water during the winter, as it will not be in an active growing phase. During winter, you can get by with watering once every 2 to 3 weeks or sometimes not at all. For those growing this plant indoors, you should be somewhat wary of appliances such as air conditioners, which can cause your plant to dry out more quickly, which also calls for more frequent watering.
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What's the difference between watering my Lily of the valley bush indoors vs outdoors?
In some cases, your Lily of the valley bush may not need any supplemental watering when it grows outside and will survive on rainwater alone. However, if you live in an area of little to no rain, you should water this plant about every two weeks. If you belong to the group of people who live out of this plant's natural hardiness zone, you should grow it indoors. In an indoor setting, you should monitor your plant's soil as it can dry out more quickly when it is in a container or when it is exposed to HVAC units such as air conditioners. Those drying factors will lead you to water this plant a bit more often than if you grew it outdoors.
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Key Facts About Lily of the valley bush

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Attributes of Lily of the valley bush

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Tree, Shrub
Bloom Time
Spring
Plant Height
3.5 m
Spread
2.5 m
Leaf Color
Green
Red
Bronze
Flower Size
2.5 cm
Flower Color
White
Stem Color
Green
Leaf type
Evergreen

Scientific Classification of Lily of the valley bush

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Common Pests & Diseases About Lily of the valley bush

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Common issues for Lily of the valley bush based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Lace bugs
Lace bugs Lace bugs
Lace bugs
Lace bugs are 3 to 5 mm translucent flying insects that suck sap from the plant.
Solutions: Lace bugs can be controlled in various ways. For severe cases: Introduce beneficial insects that eat lace bugs, such as parasitoid wasps, assassin bugs, and lady beetles. Avoid spraying unnecessary pesticides so as not to reduce the populations of these helpful predators. Spray plants with insecticidal soap or neem oil under all leaves of the affected and surrounding plants. Make sure the soap hits the insects. Spray in the morning, evening, or on a cloudy day to avoid damaging plant tissue. Trim and burn heavily infected plant limbs. As a last resort use an insecticide containing pyrethroids to kill the lace bugs. Remember that these products will also likely kill beneficial insects such as bees. For less severe cases: Rub off lace bugs from under the leaves using a damp cloth. Use the strong stream of a hose to spray these pests off plants. This washes the nymphs off and onto the ground where they cannot return to the leaves of the plant. Large trees generally do not need to be treated for lace bugs, since they don't damage their overall health.
Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
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Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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Lace bugs
plant poor
Lace bugs
Lace bugs are 3 to 5 mm translucent flying insects that suck sap from the plant.
Overview
Overview
Lace bugs are tiny winged insect pests that feed on the sap of the plant that they infest. There are a number of different types, which each attack certain species of plants. A severe infestation can cause leaf drop, and a reduction of fruit yield also occurs on infested fruit trees. They are most active in late summer and fall.
Lace bugs can be difficult to detect, so damage may be seen before the insect pests are detected. While adult lace bugs are brown to black with lacy wings that lay flat against their body, the nymphs are clear when they first hatch and then gradually turn black. They have small spines around their bodies. These nymphs will mature into adults within 3 or 4 weeks.
Although the damage caused by lace bugs is somewhat unsightly, it does not seriously harm the plant. The most susceptible species of plants include azaleas, rhododendrons, olive and macadamia trees, and plane trees.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When lace bugs infest a plant's leaves, yellow spots can be seen on the upper surface. The underside of the leaves is usually fouled with black bug droppings that are tar-like.
Lace bugs spend their entire lifecycle on the leaves of the plant they have infested, from egg to adult. They are tiny sap-sucking insects that are around 3 mm long. The adults lay their eggs on the undersides of the leaves. When the eggs hatch, the nymphs start to feed on the sap of the leaves.
When an entire leaf is infested, it takes on a bronze appearance. Eventually, severely affected leaves will drop off the plant.
Some lace bugs also feed on flower buds. This causes the tips of the flowers to blacken. Eventually, the entire flower will turn black and drop off.
Solutions
Solutions
Lace bugs can be controlled in various ways.
For severe cases:
  1. Introduce beneficial insects that eat lace bugs, such as parasitoid wasps, assassin bugs, and lady beetles. Avoid spraying unnecessary pesticides so as not to reduce the populations of these helpful predators.
  2. Spray plants with insecticidal soap or neem oil under all leaves of the affected and surrounding plants. Make sure the soap hits the insects. Spray in the morning, evening, or on a cloudy day to avoid damaging plant tissue.
  3. Trim and burn heavily infected plant limbs.
  4. As a last resort use an insecticide containing pyrethroids to kill the lace bugs. Remember that these products will also likely kill beneficial insects such as bees.
For less severe cases:
  1. Rub off lace bugs from under the leaves using a damp cloth.
  2. Use the strong stream of a hose to spray these pests off plants. This washes the nymphs off and onto the ground where they cannot return to the leaves of the plant.
  3. Large trees generally do not need to be treated for lace bugs, since they don't damage their overall health.
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Leaf scorch
plant poor
Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Overview
Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
  • Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
  • Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.
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Weed Control About Lily of the valley bush

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Lily of the valley bush is a stunning evergreen ornamental shrub, but also highly toxic to both humans and animals.
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Distribution of Lily of the valley bush

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Distribution Map of Lily of the valley bush

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Cultivated
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No species reported
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More Info on Lily Of The Valley Bush Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
Lily of the valley bush thrives in areas abundant in solar exposure and is able to withstand locations of inferior sun access. It's native habitat entails environments well-enveloped in sun rays which facilitate its lush growth. Overexposure to sun may cause scorching while insufficient exposure impedes growth and foliage color.
Best Sunlight Practices
Transplant
2-3 feet
Transplant lily of the valley bush during S3 (early spring) when the plant is still dormant, enhancing its chance for survival. It prefers partially shaded locations with well-drained, acidic soil. Be gentle during transplanting to avoid damage. Remember, it's all about helping lily of the valley bush flourish and grow beautifully!
Transplant Techniques
Feng shui direction
East
The lily of the valley bush aligns harmoniously with the essence of the East, mirroring the energy of renewal embodied by the rising sun. It might subtly nurture the balance and flow of positive Chi. Remember, while helpful, Feng Shui concepts can be subjective and individual experiences may differ.
Fengshui Details
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Plants Related to Lily of the valley bush

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Washington hawthorn
Washington hawthorn
Washington hawthorn is a North American native tree that, despite being named for the state of Washington, actually originates from nearby North Carolina. It was first introduced to Pennsylvania from Washington, thus earning its common name. Its dense, thorny growth and ability to withstand pruning make it a good protective hedging plant.
Voodoo lily
Voodoo lily
This species grows from a tuber, producing an inflorescence with a yellowish spathe covered in large purple spots and a purple spadix. The green leaf appears after the inflorescence develops. It has 9 to 11 leaflets each up to 40 centimeters long borne on a tall petiole. The mature flowers emit an odor described as "putrid" and compared to rotting meat. The odor is attractive to insects such as flies, which pollinate the plant. Like some other aroids it is a thermogenic plant, generating its own heat.
Virginia sweetspire
Virginia sweetspire
Native to streambanks and pine barrens of the Southeastern U.S., the deciduous virginia sweetspire can be used for woody borders in landscaping. In its scientific name, Itea virginica, “Itea” comes from the Greek word for “willow” due to its similarly cascading leaves and flowers.
Tuberous begonia
Tuberous begonia
Tuberous begonia (Begonia tuberhybrida) is a plant species native to the Andes Mountains in South America. Tuberous begonia is sometimes regarded as one of the most spectacular of the genus for its large blossoms. This species is often planted in gardens and conservatories.
Titan arum
Titan arum
The titan arum's inflorescence can reach over 3 m in height. The leaf grows on a somewhat green stalk that branches into three sections at the top, each containing many leaflets. The leaf structure can reach up to 6 m tall and 5 m across.
Ti plant
Ti plant
The ti plant is a palm-like shrub that symbolizes the connection between the living and the dead for some Austronesian cultures, having many ceremonial purposes. In practical terms, ti plant is used to make dyes and is grown for ornamentation.
Cape jasmine
Cape jasmine
Gardenia jasminoides is an evergreen shrub with unique, glossy evergreen leaves and stunning flowers. The sophisticated, matte white flowers are often used in bouquets. The exceptional beauty of this ornamental plant has made it a popular and highly appreciated plant amongst gardeners and horticulturalists.
Golden pothos
Golden pothos
The golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular houseplant that is commonly seen in Australia, Asia, and the West Indies. It goes by many nicknames, including "devil's ivy", because it is so hard to kill and can even grow in low light conditions. Golden pothos has poisonous sap, so it should be kept away from pets and children.
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Lily of the valley bush
Lily of the valley bush
Lily of the valley bush
Lily of the valley bush
Lily of the valley bush
Lily of the valley bush
Lily of the valley bush
Pieris formosa
Also known as: Himalayan andromeda, Himalayan pieris, Pearl Flower
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Care Guide for Lily of the valley bush

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Questions About Lily of the valley bush

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Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Lily of the valley bush?
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What should I do if I water my Lily of the valley bush too much or too little?
more
How often should I water my Lily of the valley bush?
more
How much water does my Lily of the valley bush need?
more
How can I tell if i'm watering my Lily of the valley bush enough?
more
How can I water my Lily of the valley bush at different growth stages?
more
How can I water my Lily of the valley bush through the seasons?
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What's the difference between watering my Lily of the valley bush indoors vs outdoors?
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Key Facts About Lily of the valley bush

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Attributes of Lily of the valley bush

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Tree, Shrub
Bloom Time
Spring
Plant Height
3.5 m
Spread
2.5 m
Leaf Color
Green
Red
Bronze
Flower Size
2.5 cm
Flower Color
White
Stem Color
Green
Leaf type
Evergreen
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Scientific Classification of Lily of the valley bush

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Lily of the valley bush

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Common issues for Lily of the valley bush based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More About the Brown spot more
Lace bugs
Lace bugs Lace bugs Lace bugs
Lace bugs are 3 to 5 mm translucent flying insects that suck sap from the plant.
Solutions: Lace bugs can be controlled in various ways. For severe cases: Introduce beneficial insects that eat lace bugs, such as parasitoid wasps, assassin bugs, and lady beetles. Avoid spraying unnecessary pesticides so as not to reduce the populations of these helpful predators. Spray plants with insecticidal soap or neem oil under all leaves of the affected and surrounding plants. Make sure the soap hits the insects. Spray in the morning, evening, or on a cloudy day to avoid damaging plant tissue. Trim and burn heavily infected plant limbs. As a last resort use an insecticide containing pyrethroids to kill the lace bugs. Remember that these products will also likely kill beneficial insects such as bees. For less severe cases: Rub off lace bugs from under the leaves using a damp cloth. Use the strong stream of a hose to spray these pests off plants. This washes the nymphs off and onto the ground where they cannot return to the leaves of the plant. Large trees generally do not need to be treated for lace bugs, since they don't damage their overall health.
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Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch Leaf scorch Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
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Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Lace bugs
plant poor
Lace bugs
Lace bugs are 3 to 5 mm translucent flying insects that suck sap from the plant.
Overview
Overview
Lace bugs are tiny winged insect pests that feed on the sap of the plant that they infest. There are a number of different types, which each attack certain species of plants. A severe infestation can cause leaf drop, and a reduction of fruit yield also occurs on infested fruit trees. They are most active in late summer and fall.
Lace bugs can be difficult to detect, so damage may be seen before the insect pests are detected. While adult lace bugs are brown to black with lacy wings that lay flat against their body, the nymphs are clear when they first hatch and then gradually turn black. They have small spines around their bodies. These nymphs will mature into adults within 3 or 4 weeks.
Although the damage caused by lace bugs is somewhat unsightly, it does not seriously harm the plant. The most susceptible species of plants include azaleas, rhododendrons, olive and macadamia trees, and plane trees.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When lace bugs infest a plant's leaves, yellow spots can be seen on the upper surface. The underside of the leaves is usually fouled with black bug droppings that are tar-like.
Lace bugs spend their entire lifecycle on the leaves of the plant they have infested, from egg to adult. They are tiny sap-sucking insects that are around 3 mm long. The adults lay their eggs on the undersides of the leaves. When the eggs hatch, the nymphs start to feed on the sap of the leaves.
When an entire leaf is infested, it takes on a bronze appearance. Eventually, severely affected leaves will drop off the plant.
Some lace bugs also feed on flower buds. This causes the tips of the flowers to blacken. Eventually, the entire flower will turn black and drop off.
Solutions
Solutions
Lace bugs can be controlled in various ways.
For severe cases:
  1. Introduce beneficial insects that eat lace bugs, such as parasitoid wasps, assassin bugs, and lady beetles. Avoid spraying unnecessary pesticides so as not to reduce the populations of these helpful predators.
  2. Spray plants with insecticidal soap or neem oil under all leaves of the affected and surrounding plants. Make sure the soap hits the insects. Spray in the morning, evening, or on a cloudy day to avoid damaging plant tissue.
  3. Trim and burn heavily infected plant limbs.
  4. As a last resort use an insecticide containing pyrethroids to kill the lace bugs. Remember that these products will also likely kill beneficial insects such as bees.
For less severe cases:
  1. Rub off lace bugs from under the leaves using a damp cloth.
  2. Use the strong stream of a hose to spray these pests off plants. This washes the nymphs off and onto the ground where they cannot return to the leaves of the plant.
  3. Large trees generally do not need to be treated for lace bugs, since they don't damage their overall health.
Prevention
Prevention
Simple steps for preventing lace bugs:
  1. Avoid buying or transplanting plants with an infestation, by examining the leaves closely.
  2. Keep plants in top health with regular watering, compost, and fertilizer applications.
  3. Move heat-stressed plants in high sun locations to partial shade.
  4. Clear debris around plants to remove overwintering insects.
  5. Check plants for lace bugs in the late spring before their population peaks in the summer. Treat before populations increase.
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Leaf scorch
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Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Overview
Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
  • Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
  • Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms.
  • Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves.
  • Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement.
  • Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation.
  • If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach.
  • If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry.
  • Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections.
  • If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Physiological leaf scorch is best avoided by making sure your plants have a healthy, functional root system and access to enough water. Water regularly, especially on the mornings of excessively hot, sunny days. Deep, infrequent irrigation is better than shallow, frequent irrigation.
  • Have your soil tested and apply the proper nutrients. Be sure to not over-apply fertilizers.
  • Make sure your plants’ roots have room to expand. Avoid compacted soil as well and avoid paving areas above the root zone. Do not till or disturb the soil where plant roots are growing.
  • Plant new trees and shrubs in the fall, so that they have the maximum amount of time to become established before the environmental stresses of the next summer.
  • Remove any dead or dying plant tissue that may harbor secondary infections.
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weed

Weed Control About Lily of the valley bush

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Weeds
Lily of the valley bush is a stunning evergreen ornamental shrub, but also highly toxic to both humans and animals.
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Distribution of Lily of the valley bush

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Distribution Map of Lily of the valley bush

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Native
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Potentially invasive
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No species reported
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More Info on Lily Of The Valley Bush Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
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Plants Related to Lily of the valley bush

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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Lily of the valley bush thrives in areas abundant in solar exposure and is able to withstand locations of inferior sun access. It's native habitat entails environments well-enveloped in sun rays which facilitate its lush growth. Overexposure to sun may cause scorching while insufficient exposure impedes growth and foliage color.
Preferred
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Lily of the valley bush thrives in full sunlight but is sensitive to heat. As a plant commonly grown outdoors with abundant sunlight, it may exhibit subtle symptoms of light deficiency when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting.
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Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Lily of the valley bush may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Lily of the valley bush enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Lily of the valley bush thrives in full sun exposure but is sensitive to heat. Although sunburn symptoms occasionally occur, they are unable to withstand intense sunlight in high-temperature environments.
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Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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