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Add to My Garden Moss rose
Portulaca grandiflora
Also known as : Eleven O'Clock, Moss-Rose Purslane, Sun rose, Vietnam rose
Moss rose is an ornamental flowering semi-succulent plant native to South America. Gardeners can cultivate this easy-to-grow plant in annual flowerbeds, in containers, or in hanging baskets because of its trailing habit. Different cultivars have been selected and propagated for achieving striking variations in color, shape, and petal number of the flowers.
Water
Twice per week
Sunlight
Full sun
Care Guide for Moss rose
Moss rose does not need watering too regularly as it retains moisture well, so water it lightly and sparingly. The shallow root zone is sensitive to overwatering, so ensure that Moss rose is well-drained also. One good watering a week during hot, dry spells is recommended.
A slow-release fertilizer that is applied at the time of planting is recommended for moss rose. It can tolerate lean soil well, so fertilizing twice using a fertilizer that has a high phosphorous content during its growing season is more than enough to ensure it will have lush growth.
Deadhead (or remove) withered flowers after flowering.
Sand, Loam, Chalky, Clay, Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Needs excellent drainage in pots.
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Moss rose
Water
Twice per week
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
6 to 11
Planting Time
Late spring, Summer, Fall
Download and print this plant care card and attach it to your plants
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Moss rose
Water
Twice per week
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
6 to 11
Planting Time
Late spring, Summer, Fall
Download
Moss rose
Water
Twice per week
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
6 to 11
Planting Time
Late spring, Summer, Fall
Download
Questions About Moss rose
Watering 
Sunlight 
Temperature 
Fertilizing What should I do if I water my Moss rose too much or too little?
Underwatered Moss rose
Moss rose and other succulents can endure long periods without water, so it’s unusual to find one of these suffering from underwatering. But, if you somehow forgot about your plant and neglected to water it for a month or more, you’ll probably find your Moss rose looking thirsty or with some leaf damage from lack of watering.
It is very easy to identify an underwatered Moss rose. The leaves will look shriveled, dry, and flat. Some may have dried up completely, turned brown and crispy, or dropped off the plant, starting with the lower leaves and moving upward as the dry conditions continue. And of course, the soil will be completely dried out.
If your Moss rose is thirsty and underwatered, give it plenty of water as soon as possible. Submerging the pot entirely in water for about 5-10 minutes is a good way to make sure the soil and plant are rehydrated properly. When you feel a sense of moisture on the surface of the soil with your finger, it means the watering is done properly. If there are dried out leaves still attached, go ahead and pluck them off to make room for new growth.
Overwatered Moss rose
Overwatering is dangerous to Moss rose and can be fatal to your plant if you don’t remedy the situation. Too much moisture over time leads to root rot, which prevents the roots from being able to absorb nutrients and water from the soil. Root rot occurs when wet conditions allow fungi and bacteria to flourish in the soil and feed on roots. When you find that it's overwatered, you'd better change the growing conditions, place it somewhere with more air ventilation and adjust water frequency, for example.
The symptoms of overwatering are yellow, swollen, and translucent leaves that may even burst open from being over-full with water. If the problem continues without being treated, leaves might turn brown or black, and fall off the plant at the slightest touch. Be sure to check the soil to determine if overwatering is the culprit, as some other issues can cause similar symptoms.
It’s a bit difficult (but not impossible) to save an overwatered plant. The key is catching it early before a lot of damage has occurred. If the roots become rotten, it is likely to kill the entire plant. If you suspect you have overwatered your Moss rose, the first step is to remove it from its pot and check the roots and soil.
After removing the plant from its pot, gently remove wet soil from around the roots and then rinse them clean in room-temperature water. This helps with removing fungus that might be lurking in the soil and allows you to get a better sense of how healthy the roots are. If your plant has already developed root rot, you will see roots that are dark brown or black, soft, mushy, or slimy.
If the majority of the roots are already affected by root rot, it may not be possible to save the plant. In this case, it is best to remove any healthy leaves and try to use these to propagate a new Moss rose. Luckily, this plant is easy to propagate even from a single leaf. If, on the other hand, only a portion of the roots have succumbed to rot and other healthy roots still remain, there is a chance it can be saved.
Use a sterilized cutting tool to remove any unhealthy-looking roots. Once you're left with only the firm, pale roots, it’s a good idea to dip them in a fungicide to kill off any remaining spores. After that you can repot your Moss rose in fresh, free-draining potting soil. While this does not always work to save a succulent with root rot, in most cases this plant will be able to make a full recovery and will put out new growth starting in the next growing season.
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How often should I water my Moss rose?
There’s not a hard-and-fast rule for how often to water Moss rose. The best way to determine this is to check the soil and only water when it’s bone dry. You can either stick your finger in the pot or use a moisture meter to check the soil below the surface. When you plant it in a deep pot, you can do this with a stick or chopstick. If it feels even a little bit moist, wait a few days and check it again.
Most people will need to water Moss rose about every two weeks in summer and once a month in winter, but there are several factors that can change the frequency. The section below lists some considerations that can help you to determine how often to water.
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What should I consider when watering my Moss rose?
There are several environmental conditions that will affect how your Moss rose needs to be watered, including the container size, soil type, temperature, and humidity.
First off, the container and soil you use will determine how often to water and how much water to use each time. Be sure you use a container with plenty of drainage holes in the bottom so extra water can escape the pot. A small container has less room for soil, meaning it won’t hold as much moisture, while a larger pot will stay wet longer and need to be watered less often. It’s important not to keep your Moss rose in an oversized pot as this can easily lead to overwatering. When repotting, move to just one size larger than the current container. A shallow container works better than a deep one, since Moss rose has shallow root systems.
Moss rose will need to be watered less often in winter and more often in the active growing season in spring and autumn. During the winter, growth slows down considerably and the plant isn’t using much energy or water. There is less water lost to evaporation in cooler winter air, meaning that soil stays wet for much longer than it would in the summer.
This also applies to the general climate around your home. If you live in a humid location with a lot of rain, you will need to water less often than if you live in a dry, arid climate. Remember that conditions at the same geographic location can vary significantly with the season and the use of indoor heating and air conditioning.
Outdoor Planting
If Moss rose is planted in the ground, after establishing a root system, it shouldn’t need supplemental water beyond what it receives through precipitation and dew. But if there is a long dry period, you may want to water occasionally. In other areas where Moss rose can only be grown in a container, this plant can be moved outside in the spring and summer when the temperature is proper and then brought back inside when temperatures start to drop. A potted Moss rose kept outside usually needs more water than the same plant kept indoors, because there is a lot more sun exposure even on a shaded porch.
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How to water Moss rose?
The best way to water Moss rose is to soak it thoroughly and then allow it to dry out before it gets watered again. Since this plant is somewhat drought tolerant, you can let it get quite dry before watering again. It is always better to give this type of plant too little water over too much.
When you water, make sure the soil gets thoroughly soaked throughout the whole pot. Don’t pour the water in just one spot, but rather try to go around the whole rim of the planter to be sure that it has a chance to get wet on all sides of the plant. The correct amount of water will depend on the size of your container and how much water your soil absorbs. Give your Moss rose enough water that it drains out from the drainage holes and then (ideally) leave the drained water in the saucer for about 20-30 minutes to absorb into dry pockets of soil. After that, discard any excess water that’s still in the saucer to avoid the soil getting waterlogged.
Bottom-watering is also an excellent method for the Moss rose, as you can be sure that the soil gets thoroughly moistened. This process involves placing the pot into a saucer of water and allowing the soil to absorb moisture through the drainage holes. You will know that the soil has absorbed enough water when the top layer is moist. This takes a bit more time than top-watering, but is almost foolproof in getting an even distribution of water throughout the pot.
The original habitat of Moss rose is relatively dry with little rain, but when it rains, the soil will be thoroughly moistened. So you can mimic this situation by bottom-watering your plant when the soil is totally dry. Deep soil bathing is better than frequent light watering for Moss rose.
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More Questions People Also Ask
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Explore 5 of plant how-tos on Feng shui direction, Water, Lighting, Temperature, Transplant, etc.
Feng shui direction
South
Moss rose is considered harmonious within the realm of Feng Shui for its vibrant flowers and auspicious energy. When positioned in the South, it attracts success and boosts one's reputation. However, placements should remain balanced to work in accordance with individual elements and layout.
Water
Twice per week
Moss rose comes from hot, arid regions of Brazil, Uruguay, and Argentina. It is commonly found in sandy or rocky soil, often in coastal areas. These dry and sunny environments have low levels of rainfall and are characterized by high temperatures and strong sunlight. As a result, moss rose has adapted to survive in drought-like conditions and requires infrequent watering. It is crucial to allow the soil to dry out between waterings to avoid overwatering, as moss rose thrives in well-draining soil.
Lighting
Full sun
Moss rose flourishes in regions where the sun is fully visible and not obscured. This assists its growth and development, yet it shows resilience when exposed to areas having a moderate share of sunshine. Too much or too little sun may be detrimental, leading to poor foliage and bloom.
Temperature
0 43 ℃
Moss rose is native to warm regions and thrives in temperatures between 68 to 100°F (20 to 38℃). Cooler temperatures can see a slowdown in growth. In the colder months, move it to a warmer, sheltered spot to keep it thriving.
Transplant
6-12 inches
To ensure successful transplantation of moss rose, it's best to move them during the heart of spring when temperatures are ideal. Choose a sunny location with well-drained soil. Remember to keep the root ball intact, offering moss rose a seamless transition to their new environment.
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Moss rose based on 10 million real cases
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Thrips
Thrips are 1 to 2 mm bugs with slender black or translucent-yellow bodies. They move quickly and feed on the plant's sap.
Solutions: Thrips can be controlled in several ways. Spray plants with Pyrethrin, which is an organic pesticide derived from marigolds (follow label instructions) or Permethrin, the synthetic version of Pyrethrin. Introduce beneficial insects to the garden that eat thrips, such as minute pirate bugs and green lacewings. Remove heavily infested plants from the area and discard. Address viral diseases that may have been transmitted by the pests. For less serious cases -use a hose to spray the thrips off of the plants.
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Fire ants
Fire ants gnaw on the roots of plants and are aggressive toward people.
Solutions: Caution: fire ants are venomous and cause painful bites which can be fatal in the case of a rare but significant allergy. Fire ants can be a painful pest to have around for you and your plants. Keeping them under control will ensure comfortable gardening for all. For less severe cases: Physically remove mounds. Dig out and remove entire mounds (remember, they go deeper than they seem). Use citrus oil. Pour citrus oil, which is toxic to fire ants, down their holes. For severe cases: Use ant bait. For a chemical solution, broadcast insecticide bait formulated for fire ants in the area around a mound. Apply the bait during a dry evening so the ants can forage for it at night. Look for products that contain Indoxacarb. Release phorid flies. Introduce or promote beneficial phorid flies to gardens. These parasitic flies attack invasive fire ants. Hire a professional. Some ant baits are only available to professional exterminators. For serious cases of fire ants, consider hiring a professional.
Leaf miners
Leaf miners scar the leaves with curved white streaks or rounded white spots with brown centers.
Solutions: Leaf miners, although relatively harmless at first, can quickly multiply and devastate your plants in the coming weeks. For severe cases: Spray an organic insecticide. For an organic solution, spray a diluted mixture of azadirachtin, a compound derived from neem seeds, above and below leaves. Spray a synthetic insecticide. Spray a product that contains spinosad, such as Entrust, making sure to cover all sides of the leaves. Introduce beneficial insects. Introduce beneficial insects that eat leaf miners, such as parasitic wasps or Syrphid flies. For less severe cases: Prune infected tissue. Remove and dispose of leaves that have any sign of leaf miner damage.
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
- Wilted, droopy flowers
- Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
- Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
- Flowerhead shrink in size
- Petal color fades
- Yellowing leaves
- Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
- Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
- Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
- Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
- Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
- Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
- At first, flowers may look a little limp.
- Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
- Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
Solutions
- Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water.
- Water according to recommendations for each plant's species.
- Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too.
- Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants.
- Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Prevention
- Read up on moisture, light, and soil type preferences for each plant to avoid underwatering, incorrect light levels, or other conditions that can cause wilting blooms.
- Avoid re-potting during the flowering period. This causes additional stress on the plants because they need to repair root damage and adapt to the new micro-environment, all of which can result in wilting.
- One other potential cause is ethylene gas, a plant hormone related to ripening. Some fruits and vegetables emit ethylene, especially bananas. Apples, grapes, melons, avocados, and potatoes can also give it off, so keep flowering plants away from fresh produce.
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Thrips
Thrips are 1 to 2 mm bugs with slender black or translucent-yellow bodies. They move quickly and feed on the plant's sap.
Overview
Thrips are tiny, flying, sap-sucking insects that attack the tender parts of plants, causing scarring and weakening of the plant and sometimes, if the infestation is severe enough, plant death. They have undersized double wings with a fringe on them, resembling tiny, misshapen damselflies. Thrips have a taste for many houseplants and crops, making them a serious nuisance.
They appear in early spring after the last frost has occurred. If not controlled in early spring, they will persist for most of the season. They are often attracted to weakened plants, such as those struck by drought/underwatering or malnutrition. Excessive use of nitrogen fertilizer also seems to attract them to a plant. Thrips can spread various viruses between plants, leading to more serious damage.
Symptom Analysis
Thrips are so small that they may not be noticed (1 to 2 mm long), but infested plants present several key signs. Tiny pale spots appear on leaves, which may start to deform, show white or silver discoloration, or become papery in texture.
Flower petals may be damaged as well, and might display color break, which is dark or pale discoloring of petal tissue damaged before the buds had a chance to open. Fruits may show scabby or silvery scarring. Tiny black spots of the insects' excrement may be visible.
As the infestation progresses, infested terminals roll and become discolored, and leaves may drop prematurely. The plant's growth may be stunted. Secondary viral and bacterial infections, which thrips can transmit, may become evident.
The good news? Thrips rarely kill or seriously weaken shrubs and trees. Smaller plants, such as vegetable crops and herbaceous ornamentals, tend to be more severely affected.
Solutions
Thrips can be controlled in several ways.
- Spray plants with Pyrethrin, which is an organic pesticide derived from marigolds (follow label instructions) or Permethrin, the synthetic version of Pyrethrin.
- Introduce beneficial insects to the garden that eat thrips, such as minute pirate bugs and green lacewings.
- Remove heavily infested plants from the area and discard.
- Address viral diseases that may have been transmitted by the pests.
- For less serious cases -use a hose to spray the thrips off of the plants.
Prevention
The best way to protect plants from thrips is to take preventative measures.
- Avoid buying and transplanting infected plants. Check for signs of thrip damage before buying.
- Regularly prune off dead branches and leaves.
- Keep the garden weeded and remove debris such as dead branches and leaves.
- Avoid unnecessary use of insecticides as they can kill predatory insects that keep thrips in check.
- Plant a diverse variety of plants in the garden to provide habitat for predatory insects.
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
- Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
- A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
- Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
- Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
- Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
- Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
- Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
- Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
- Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
- Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
- Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
- Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Fire ants
Fire ants gnaw on the roots of plants and are aggressive toward people.
Overview
Fire ants are a group of ants that are known for their aggressive behavior and painful stings. Some fire ants are native and others are invasive from other countries. Once they reach plants, they climb them and chew away at leaves and flower buds.
Fire ants also kill and eat beneficial insects such as caterpillars, ladybugs, mantis, and native ants. They can be a problem any time temperatures are above freezing, but new infestations are most likely to appear when brought in via contaminated material such as potting soil or mulch, or when insecticides have harmed populations of beneficial insects that would otherwise control populations of fire ants.
They can be difficult to control, especially once populations become large. Plant damage is typically minor, but fire ants can destroy seedlings.
Symptom Analysis
The number one symptom of fire ants is seeing the ants themselves which are red or black in color. Ant mounds in the ground are also signs. Fire ant mounds rarely exceed 46 cm in diameter. If a fire ant mound is disturbed, many fast-moving, aggressive ants will emerge. These ants will bite and then painfully sting.
Even if no ants are visible, their damage might be apparent. Chewed leaf and flower edges might indicate fire ants. Fully eaten seedlings are another sign.
Solutions
Caution: fire ants are venomous and cause painful bites which can be fatal in the case of a rare but significant allergy.
Fire ants can be a painful pest to have around for you and your plants. Keeping them under control will ensure comfortable gardening for all.
For less severe cases:
- Physically remove mounds. Dig out and remove entire mounds (remember, they go deeper than they seem).
- Use citrus oil. Pour citrus oil, which is toxic to fire ants, down their holes.
For severe cases:
- Use ant bait. For a chemical solution, broadcast insecticide bait formulated for fire ants in the area around a mound. Apply the bait during a dry evening so the ants can forage for it at night. Look for products that contain Indoxacarb.
- Release phorid flies. Introduce or promote beneficial phorid flies to gardens. These parasitic flies attack invasive fire ants.
- Hire a professional. Some ant baits are only available to professional exterminators. For serious cases of fire ants, consider hiring a professional.
Prevention
Fire ants become more difficult to control as they establish themselves, so try to prevent them or treat them early.
- Monitor new material. Do not bring in any soil or plants from known infested areas, unless if they are "Quarantine Approved." Make sure to check new material for fire ants.
- Apply insecticide. Some warm and humid areas have high fire ants populations. In these areas, spread a granular fire ants insecticide such as Varsity in the spring near gardens to prevent these unwelcome visitors.
- Treat early. Spot treat at the first sight of any fire ants mound, as larger mounds are more difficult to treat.
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Leaf miners
Leaf miners scar the leaves with curved white streaks or rounded white spots with brown centers.
Symptom Analysis
The leaves on your plants are showing clear/white trails, which appear like parts have been hollowed out. These trails are narrow at first and become wide patches over time. In some cases, leaves will be completely hollow and dry on the plant. As the name suggests, leaf miners are responsible.
Leaf miners are most common in the early spring when they begin to hatch and reproduce. They are tiny 1/16th inch larvae that resemble small grains of rice. The larvae are found inside leaves. The adult stage, a fly, lays eggs in between the layers of a leaf. When the eggs hatch, the larvae eat the tender nutritious inner leaves.
Solutions
Leaf miners, although relatively harmless at first, can quickly multiply and devastate your plants in the coming weeks.
For severe cases:
- Spray an organic insecticide. For an organic solution, spray a diluted mixture of azadirachtin, a compound derived from neem seeds, above and below leaves.
- Spray a synthetic insecticide. Spray a product that contains spinosad, such as Entrust, making sure to cover all sides of the leaves.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Introduce beneficial insects that eat leaf miners, such as parasitic wasps or Syrphid flies.
For less severe cases:
- Prune infected tissue. Remove and dispose of leaves that have any sign of leaf miner damage.
Prevention
Although leaf miners are easy to control, preventing them is ideal. Our recommendations are:
- Physically exclude adults. Cover plants with floating row covers as soon as you put them in the ground.
- Remove weeds and debris. Keep your garden weeded to lower the number of plants leaf miners can feed and breed on.
- Avoid introducing infected plants. Carefully inspect new plants for leaf miners before adding them to your garden or home.
- Avoid broad-spectrum pesticides. Leaf miners can usually be controlled by natural predatory insects. Do not apply broad-spectrum insecticides that could harm these beneficial insects.
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Weed Control
Weeds
This annual flowering succulent is native to warm and arid parts of South America – specifically Argentina, Uruguay, and southern Brazil. Although it is closely related to Purslane (Portulaca oleracea), moss rose is a less problematic weed since it is not able to tolerate such a wide range of soil types and environmental conditions. It requires sandy soil and rocky terrain. It is a popular garden plant in warmer temperate regions. Because it produces small seeds that are easily spread around, some plants have escaped cultivation, so moss rose it can be found growing as a weed in South Asia and old stone-dominated cities of the Balkans and Southeastern Europe. It is not known to cause problems in agriculture or environmental degradation.
How to Control it
Best weeding time: before fruition Removal: This is a small herbaceous plant. Remove this weed by gloved hand or by tools. Pruning: This is an annual plant. Repeat pruning its aerial parts to effectively contain its growth. Plowing: Plow the soil before cultivation, and bury the weed entirely in the soil. Chemical control: If the weed is too much to pull out, herbicides will be helpful for its eradication.
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Distribution Map
Habitat
Roadsides, waste places
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info
Plant Type
Succulent, Herb
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Red
Pink
Bloom Time
Late spring, Summer, Early fall, Mid fall
Leaf Color
Green
Name story
Moss rose
Portulaca grandiflora is commonly called moss rose, which is quite descriptive of this plant's key ornamental features for being ruffled, rose-like flowers appearing on prostrate to slightly ascending stems that form a moss-like foliage mat.
Ten o'clock
The magical characteristic of this plant is that it seems like it can tell time. This is seen commonly as it blooms in the early morning at ten o'clock, but it is also limited to bright sunlight days. If it is rainy or night time, it will not sprout flowers. Hence, it is called ten o'clock.
Symbolism
compassion, exaltedness, a confession of love
Usages
Garden Use
The moss rose is valued for the way it grows voraciously and easily, requiring little in the way of maintenance or care, and blooms vibrant, appealing flowers in multiple colors. Often used for front borders, it is suitable for succulent and rock gardens due to its water-retaining abilities. Moss rose looks particularly striking next to Creeping zinnia or silver plants like Dusty miller or 'Silver Mound' Globe amaranth.
Scientific Classification
Phylum
Vascular plants Class
Dicotyledons Order
Pinks, cacti, and allies Family
Purslane Genus
Purslanes Species
Moss rose 
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Care Guide
Care FAQ
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Pests & Diseases
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Add to My Garden Moss rose
Portulaca grandiflora
Also known as: Eleven O'Clock, Moss-Rose Purslane, Sun rose, Vietnam rose
Moss rose is an ornamental flowering semi-succulent plant native to South America. Gardeners can cultivate this easy-to-grow plant in annual flowerbeds, in containers, or in hanging baskets because of its trailing habit. Different cultivars have been selected and propagated for achieving striking variations in color, shape, and petal number of the flowers.
Water
Twice per week
Sunlight
Full sun
Care Guide for Moss rose
Water
Moss rose does not need watering too regularly as it retains moisture well, so water it lightly and sparingly. The shallow root zone is sensitive to overwatering, so ensure that Moss rose is well-drained also. One good watering a week during hot, dry spells is recommended.
Fertilization
A slow-release fertilizer that is applied at the time of planting is recommended for moss rose. It can tolerate lean soil well, so fertilizing twice using a fertilizer that has a high phosphorous content during its growing season is more than enough to ensure it will have lush growth.
Pruning
Deadhead (or remove) withered flowers after flowering.
Soil
Sand, Loam, Chalky, Clay, Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Potting Suggestions
Needs excellent drainage in pots.
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Questions About Moss rose
Watering Sunlight Temperature Fertilizing What should I do if I water my Moss rose too much or too little?
How often should I water my Moss rose?
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Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Moss rose based on 10 million real cases
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Learn More ![more]()
Thrips
Thrips are 1 to 2 mm bugs with slender black or translucent-yellow bodies. They move quickly and feed on the plant's sap.
Solutions: Thrips can be controlled in several ways. Spray plants with Pyrethrin, which is an organic pesticide derived from marigolds (follow label instructions) or Permethrin, the synthetic version of Pyrethrin. Introduce beneficial insects to the garden that eat thrips, such as minute pirate bugs and green lacewings. Remove heavily infested plants from the area and discard. Address viral diseases that may have been transmitted by the pests. For less serious cases -use a hose to spray the thrips off of the plants.
Learn More ![more]()
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
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Fire ants
Fire ants gnaw on the roots of plants and are aggressive toward people.
Solutions: Caution: fire ants are venomous and cause painful bites which can be fatal in the case of a rare but significant allergy. Fire ants can be a painful pest to have around for you and your plants. Keeping them under control will ensure comfortable gardening for all. For less severe cases: Physically remove mounds. Dig out and remove entire mounds (remember, they go deeper than they seem). Use citrus oil. Pour citrus oil, which is toxic to fire ants, down their holes. For severe cases: Use ant bait. For a chemical solution, broadcast insecticide bait formulated for fire ants in the area around a mound. Apply the bait during a dry evening so the ants can forage for it at night. Look for products that contain Indoxacarb. Release phorid flies. Introduce or promote beneficial phorid flies to gardens. These parasitic flies attack invasive fire ants. Hire a professional. Some ant baits are only available to professional exterminators. For serious cases of fire ants, consider hiring a professional.
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Leaf miners
Leaf miners scar the leaves with curved white streaks or rounded white spots with brown centers.
Solutions: Leaf miners, although relatively harmless at first, can quickly multiply and devastate your plants in the coming weeks. For severe cases: Spray an organic insecticide. For an organic solution, spray a diluted mixture of azadirachtin, a compound derived from neem seeds, above and below leaves. Spray a synthetic insecticide. Spray a product that contains spinosad, such as Entrust, making sure to cover all sides of the leaves. Introduce beneficial insects. Introduce beneficial insects that eat leaf miners, such as parasitic wasps or Syrphid flies. For less severe cases: Prune infected tissue. Remove and dispose of leaves that have any sign of leaf miner damage.
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
- Wilted, droopy flowers
- Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
- Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
- Flowerhead shrink in size
- Petal color fades
- Yellowing leaves
- Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
- Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
- Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
- Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
- Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
- Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
- At first, flowers may look a little limp.
- Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
- Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
Solutions
- Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water.
- Water according to recommendations for each plant's species.
- Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too.
- Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants.
- Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Prevention
- Read up on moisture, light, and soil type preferences for each plant to avoid underwatering, incorrect light levels, or other conditions that can cause wilting blooms.
- Avoid re-potting during the flowering period. This causes additional stress on the plants because they need to repair root damage and adapt to the new micro-environment, all of which can result in wilting.
- One other potential cause is ethylene gas, a plant hormone related to ripening. Some fruits and vegetables emit ethylene, especially bananas. Apples, grapes, melons, avocados, and potatoes can also give it off, so keep flowering plants away from fresh produce.
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Thrips
Thrips are 1 to 2 mm bugs with slender black or translucent-yellow bodies. They move quickly and feed on the plant's sap.
Overview
Thrips are tiny, flying, sap-sucking insects that attack the tender parts of plants, causing scarring and weakening of the plant and sometimes, if the infestation is severe enough, plant death. They have undersized double wings with a fringe on them, resembling tiny, misshapen damselflies. Thrips have a taste for many houseplants and crops, making them a serious nuisance.
They appear in early spring after the last frost has occurred. If not controlled in early spring, they will persist for most of the season. They are often attracted to weakened plants, such as those struck by drought/underwatering or malnutrition. Excessive use of nitrogen fertilizer also seems to attract them to a plant. Thrips can spread various viruses between plants, leading to more serious damage.
Symptom Analysis
Thrips are so small that they may not be noticed (1 to 2 mm long), but infested plants present several key signs. Tiny pale spots appear on leaves, which may start to deform, show white or silver discoloration, or become papery in texture.
Flower petals may be damaged as well, and might display color break, which is dark or pale discoloring of petal tissue damaged before the buds had a chance to open. Fruits may show scabby or silvery scarring. Tiny black spots of the insects' excrement may be visible.
As the infestation progresses, infested terminals roll and become discolored, and leaves may drop prematurely. The plant's growth may be stunted. Secondary viral and bacterial infections, which thrips can transmit, may become evident.
The good news? Thrips rarely kill or seriously weaken shrubs and trees. Smaller plants, such as vegetable crops and herbaceous ornamentals, tend to be more severely affected.
Solutions
Thrips can be controlled in several ways.
- Spray plants with Pyrethrin, which is an organic pesticide derived from marigolds (follow label instructions) or Permethrin, the synthetic version of Pyrethrin.
- Introduce beneficial insects to the garden that eat thrips, such as minute pirate bugs and green lacewings.
- Remove heavily infested plants from the area and discard.
- Address viral diseases that may have been transmitted by the pests.
- For less serious cases -use a hose to spray the thrips off of the plants.
Prevention
The best way to protect plants from thrips is to take preventative measures.
- Avoid buying and transplanting infected plants. Check for signs of thrip damage before buying.
- Regularly prune off dead branches and leaves.
- Keep the garden weeded and remove debris such as dead branches and leaves.
- Avoid unnecessary use of insecticides as they can kill predatory insects that keep thrips in check.
- Plant a diverse variety of plants in the garden to provide habitat for predatory insects.
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
- Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
- A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
- Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
- Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
- Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
- Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
- Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
- Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
- Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
- Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
- Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
- Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Fire ants
Fire ants gnaw on the roots of plants and are aggressive toward people.
Overview
Fire ants are a group of ants that are known for their aggressive behavior and painful stings. Some fire ants are native and others are invasive from other countries. Once they reach plants, they climb them and chew away at leaves and flower buds.
Fire ants also kill and eat beneficial insects such as caterpillars, ladybugs, mantis, and native ants. They can be a problem any time temperatures are above freezing, but new infestations are most likely to appear when brought in via contaminated material such as potting soil or mulch, or when insecticides have harmed populations of beneficial insects that would otherwise control populations of fire ants.
They can be difficult to control, especially once populations become large. Plant damage is typically minor, but fire ants can destroy seedlings.
Symptom Analysis
The number one symptom of fire ants is seeing the ants themselves which are red or black in color. Ant mounds in the ground are also signs. Fire ant mounds rarely exceed 46 cm in diameter. If a fire ant mound is disturbed, many fast-moving, aggressive ants will emerge. These ants will bite and then painfully sting.
Even if no ants are visible, their damage might be apparent. Chewed leaf and flower edges might indicate fire ants. Fully eaten seedlings are another sign.
Solutions
Caution: fire ants are venomous and cause painful bites which can be fatal in the case of a rare but significant allergy.
Fire ants can be a painful pest to have around for you and your plants. Keeping them under control will ensure comfortable gardening for all.
For less severe cases:
- Physically remove mounds. Dig out and remove entire mounds (remember, they go deeper than they seem).
- Use citrus oil. Pour citrus oil, which is toxic to fire ants, down their holes.
For severe cases:
- Use ant bait. For a chemical solution, broadcast insecticide bait formulated for fire ants in the area around a mound. Apply the bait during a dry evening so the ants can forage for it at night. Look for products that contain Indoxacarb.
- Release phorid flies. Introduce or promote beneficial phorid flies to gardens. These parasitic flies attack invasive fire ants.
- Hire a professional. Some ant baits are only available to professional exterminators. For serious cases of fire ants, consider hiring a professional.
Prevention
Fire ants become more difficult to control as they establish themselves, so try to prevent them or treat them early.
- Monitor new material. Do not bring in any soil or plants from known infested areas, unless if they are "Quarantine Approved." Make sure to check new material for fire ants.
- Apply insecticide. Some warm and humid areas have high fire ants populations. In these areas, spread a granular fire ants insecticide such as Varsity in the spring near gardens to prevent these unwelcome visitors.
- Treat early. Spot treat at the first sight of any fire ants mound, as larger mounds are more difficult to treat.
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Leaf miners
Leaf miners scar the leaves with curved white streaks or rounded white spots with brown centers.
Symptom Analysis
The leaves on your plants are showing clear/white trails, which appear like parts have been hollowed out. These trails are narrow at first and become wide patches over time. In some cases, leaves will be completely hollow and dry on the plant. As the name suggests, leaf miners are responsible.
Leaf miners are most common in the early spring when they begin to hatch and reproduce. They are tiny 1/16th inch larvae that resemble small grains of rice. The larvae are found inside leaves. The adult stage, a fly, lays eggs in between the layers of a leaf. When the eggs hatch, the larvae eat the tender nutritious inner leaves.
Solutions
Leaf miners, although relatively harmless at first, can quickly multiply and devastate your plants in the coming weeks.
For severe cases:
- Spray an organic insecticide. For an organic solution, spray a diluted mixture of azadirachtin, a compound derived from neem seeds, above and below leaves.
- Spray a synthetic insecticide. Spray a product that contains spinosad, such as Entrust, making sure to cover all sides of the leaves.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Introduce beneficial insects that eat leaf miners, such as parasitic wasps or Syrphid flies.
For less severe cases:
- Prune infected tissue. Remove and dispose of leaves that have any sign of leaf miner damage.
Prevention
Although leaf miners are easy to control, preventing them is ideal. Our recommendations are:
- Physically exclude adults. Cover plants with floating row covers as soon as you put them in the ground.
- Remove weeds and debris. Keep your garden weeded to lower the number of plants leaf miners can feed and breed on.
- Avoid introducing infected plants. Carefully inspect new plants for leaf miners before adding them to your garden or home.
- Avoid broad-spectrum pesticides. Leaf miners can usually be controlled by natural predatory insects. Do not apply broad-spectrum insecticides that could harm these beneficial insects.
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Weed Control
Weeds
This annual flowering succulent is native to warm and arid parts of South America – specifically Argentina, Uruguay, and southern Brazil. Although it is closely related to Purslane (Portulaca oleracea), moss rose is a less problematic weed since it is not able to tolerate such a wide range of soil types and environmental conditions. It requires sandy soil and rocky terrain. It is a popular garden plant in warmer temperate regions. Because it produces small seeds that are easily spread around, some plants have escaped cultivation, so moss rose it can be found growing as a weed in South Asia and old stone-dominated cities of the Balkans and Southeastern Europe. It is not known to cause problems in agriculture or environmental degradation.
How to Control it
Best weeding time: before fruition Removal: This is a small herbaceous plant. Remove this weed by gloved hand or by tools. Pruning: This is an annual plant. Repeat pruning its aerial parts to effectively contain its growth. Plowing: Plow the soil before cultivation, and bury the weed entirely in the soil. Chemical control: If the weed is too much to pull out, herbicides will be helpful for its eradication.
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Distribution Map
Habitat
Roadsides, waste places
Map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info
Plant Type
Succulent, Herb
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Red
Pink
Bloom Time
Late spring, Summer, Early fall, Mid fall
Leaf Color
Green
Name story
Moss rose
Portulaca grandiflora is commonly called moss rose, which is quite descriptive of this plant's key ornamental features for being ruffled, rose-like flowers appearing on prostrate to slightly ascending stems that form a moss-like foliage mat.
Ten o'clock
The magical characteristic of this plant is that it seems like it can tell time. This is seen commonly as it blooms in the early morning at ten o'clock, but it is also limited to bright sunlight days. If it is rainy or night time, it will not sprout flowers. Hence, it is called ten o'clock.
Symbolism
compassion, exaltedness, a confession of love
Usages
Garden Use
The moss rose is valued for the way it grows voraciously and easily, requiring little in the way of maintenance or care, and blooms vibrant, appealing flowers in multiple colors. Often used for front borders, it is suitable for succulent and rock gardens due to its water-retaining abilities. Moss rose looks particularly striking next to Creeping zinnia or silver plants like Dusty miller or 'Silver Mound' Globe amaranth.
Scientific Classification
Phylum
Vascular plants Class
Dicotyledons Order
Pinks, cacti, and allies Family
Purslane Genus
Purslanes Species
Moss rose 
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Water
Moss Rose Watering Instructions
Moss rose comes from hot, arid regions of Brazil, Uruguay, and Argentina. It is commonly found in sandy or rocky soil, often in coastal areas. These dry and sunny environments have low levels of rainfall and are characterized by high temperatures and strong sunlight. As a result, moss rose has adapted to survive in drought-like conditions and requires infrequent watering. It is crucial to allow the soil to dry out between waterings to avoid overwatering, as moss rose thrives in well-draining soil.
When Should I Water My Moss Rose?
Importance of Proper Watering
Correctly watering moss rose plays a crucial role in supporting active growth and blooming. An appropriately hydrated moss rose shows excellent color, healthier leaves, and vibrant flowers, contributing to an appealing garden setup.
Soil Dryness
Moss rose thrives in dry conditions. The first indicator to look for is how dry the soil is. Insert your finger about an inch into the soil. If the soil below the surface feels completely dry, it's time to water the plant. Remember, overwatering can lead to root rot in moss rose.
Leaf Wilt
Wilting leaves is another sign that your moss rose needs water. However, it's important to understand that wilting could also be a sign of stress caused by heat. Distinguish between these two causes — if the soil is moist and your moss rose is wilting, it may be due to heat stress, not dehydration.
Reduced Flowering
Moss rose is a plant that blooms generously under optimal conditions. If noticed reduced flowering or no flowering at all, it may indicate a need for watering - assuming all other requirements such as sunlight exposure are met.
Early Morning or Late Evening Watering
The best time to water moss rose is early in the morning or late in the evening when evaporation is minimal. In this way, the water can soak into the soil, drawing roots deep into the ground, building a stronger and healthier root system.
Risk of Incorrect Watering
Overwatering or underwatering can both be harmful to moss rose. Overwatering can cause the roots to rot and leaves to yellow or drop. It can also lead to a fatal fungal disease. Conversely, underwatering can result in wilting leaves and ultimate death of the plant. Paying careful attention to the signs of dehydration can help maintain the plant's health and prolong its life.
How Should I Water My Moss Rose?
Watering Requirements
Moss rose has specific watering needs and sensitivities that should be considered for optimal hydration. It is important to provide enough water to keep the plant hydrated, but overwatering should be avoided as it can lead to root rot and other issues.
Watering Technique
Bottom-watering is an effective method for watering moss rose. This technique involves placing the plant pot in a tray or saucer filled with water and allowing the roots to absorb water from the bottom up. This ensures that the roots receive adequate moisture without excessive water on the foliage.
Watering Can Type
When using a watering can, it is recommended to choose one with a narrow spout. This allows for precise watering at the base of the plant, avoiding wetting the foliage too much. Watering the base directly helps to prevent fungal diseases and promotes targeted hydration.
Moisture Meter
Using a moisture meter can be beneficial for watering moss rose. This tool allows you to accurately measure the moisture level in the soil, ensuring you water the plant when it needs it and avoiding over or underwatering. Follow the manufacturer's instructions on how to use the moisture meter properly.
Avoiding Foliage
During watering, it is important to avoid wetting the foliage excessively. Wet leaves can lead to fungal diseases and other problems. Direct the water flow towards the base of the plant, allowing it to soak the soil without too much water splashing onto the leaves.
Watering Frequency
The frequency of watering moss rose depends on various factors such as the climate, pot size, and soil type. It is important to monitor the moisture level of the soil and water when it starts to dry out. Stick your finger about an inch into the soil, and if it feels dry, it's time to water. However, avoid watering too frequently as it can lead to root rot. Always adjust the watering frequency based on the specific needs of your moss rose plant.
How Much Water Does Moss Rose Really Need?
Introduction
Moss rose is a plant native to Brazil, Uruguay, and Argentina. It thrives in sunny locations with well-draining soil, such as rock gardens or containers. It is a succulent plant, meaning it has adapted to arid environments and has specific water requirements.
Optimal Watering Quantity
The water requirements for moss rose depend on several factors, including pot size, root depth, and plant size. As moss rose has shallow roots, watering should be done moderately while ensuring good drainage. A good rule of thumb is to water when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. For moss rose in a small pot, approximately 1/4 to 1/2 cup of water per watering session is sufficient. For larger pots, increase the amount of water accordingly, but be cautious not to overwater as this can lead to root rot.
Signs of Proper Hydration
To determine if moss rose is receiving the right amount of water, check the soil moisture level. The soil should be moist but not waterlogged. If the soil is consistently wet or muddy, it indicates overwatering. On the other hand, if the soil is dry and crumbly, it indicates underwatering. Additionally, moss rose leaves should appear plump and vibrant, and the plant should exhibit steady growth and flowering during its active growing season.
Risks of Improper Watering
Overwatering moss rose can lead to root rot and fungal diseases, causing the plant to wilt and eventually die. Underwatering can cause the plant to become stressed, resulting in stunted growth and decreased flower production. It is important to strike a balance and provide just enough water for moss rose to thrive.
Additional Advice
In addition to providing the right amount of water, it is important to ensure proper drainage for moss rose. This can be achieved by using well-draining soil and having drainage holes in the pot. Avoid letting moss rose's roots sit in standing water, as this can lead to root rot. It is also beneficial to water moss rose in the morning or early afternoon, allowing the foliage to dry before nightfall and reducing the risk of fungal diseases.
How Often Should I Water Moss Rose?
Twice per week
Watering Frequency
Smart Seasonal Watering
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Just like people, each plant has its own preferences and needs. Devote time to understanding your plants so you can nurture them properly. Observe your plants attentively, learning from their growth patterns, and becoming more in tune with their needs as you grow together. Keep a watchful eye on new plants and seedlings, as they are sensitive to both overwatering and underwatering. Shower them with gentle love and attention, fostering their growth and strength. Let the rhythm of your local climate guide your watering habits, adapting your schedule to the changing weather and the needs of your plants. What Kind of Water is Best for Moss Rose?
Water Type Guide for moss rose
Water Sensitivity: Moderate - moss rose prefers well-draining soil and should not be overly saturated with water.
Water Types
Distilled Water: Best suited for moss rose as it is pure and free from contaminants. Rainwater: A suitable alternative to distilled water, as long as it is collected from a clean source. Tap Water: Can be used if no other water sources are available. However, it may contain chlorine, fluoride, and other minerals that moss rose may be sensitive to.
Chlorine Sensitivity
High - moss rose is sensitive to chlorine in tap water, which can cause leaf burn and overall stress to the plant.
Fluoride Sensitivity
Moderate - moss rose can be sensitive to high levels of fluoride in tap water, which can lead to leaf discoloration and stunted growth.
Mineral Sensitivity
Low - moss rose can tolerate most minerals found in tap water, but excessive amounts or imbalances can affect its health.
Water Treatments
Dechlorination: It is recommended to let tap water sit out for at least 24 hours before using it on moss rose. This allows the chlorine to evaporate and makes it safer for the plant. Filtration: Using a water filter can help remove contaminants from tap water, making it more suitable for moss rose.
Water Temperature Preferences
Moderate - moss rose generally prefers water at room temperature (around 68-72°F or 20-22°C). Avoid using water that is too cold or too hot, as extreme temperatures can shock the plant.
How Do Moss Rose's Watering Needs Change with the Seasons?
How to Water moss rose in Spring?
Spring is the start of moss rose's growth cycle. With increased daylight hours, the plant starts to actively grow and may require more water than in previous months. However, always check the top inch of soil before each watering, as overwatering is harmful. It should be moderately dry before you water the plant again. Additionally, spring showers may provide some necessary hydration, so adjust home watering accordingly.
How to Water moss rose in Summer?
During the summer, moss rose enters an active blooming stage and is exposed to higher temperatures and longer daily sunlight exposure. As a result, the plant will need thorough watering more frequently compared to spring. However, be careful to avoid overwatering by consistently checking the soil's dryness. As moss rose is drought-resistant, it'll happily survive dry intervals rather than waterlogged conditions which can result in root rot.
How to Water moss rose in Autumn?
In fall, moss rose begins to prepare for dormancy. Days get shorter and temperatures cooler, reducing the plant's water requirements. Slowly scale back watering frequency at this time, making sure the top layer of soil dries out between watering. However, as moss rose is an annual and begins to wither in fall, it might not need as much care or water during this time.
How to Water moss rose in Winter?
Moss rose being an annual plant, will not survive the winter outdoors in most climates. Hence, its watering needs are almost negligible. If you're growing moss rose in pots indoors, water sparingly if at all, as the reduced sunlight and heat during winter means it will use less water. Always check the soil before watering, and only do so when it's dry to the touch.
What Expert Tips Can Enhance Moss Rose Watering Routine?
Watering Tools
When watering moss rose, it is best to use a watering can or a hose with a nozzle that delivers a gentle stream of water. This will avoid damaging the delicate foliage and flowers.
Watering Time
Watering moss rose in the early morning or late afternoon is ideal, as it allows the water to soak into the soil without the intense heat and evaporation of midday. Avoid watering in the evening to prevent potential fungal issues.
Assessing Soil Moisture
To accurately gauge the moisture level of the soil, use a moisture meter or your finger. Insert the moisture meter or thumb into the soil to a depth of a few inches. If it feels dry at that depth, it's time to water.
Avoid Surface-level Watering
Make sure to water moss rose deeply, allowing the water to penetrate into the root zone. Shallow watering only wets the top layer of soil, leading to weak root growth. The goal is to moisten the soil at least 6-8 inches deep.
Avoid Over-watering
Over-watering is a common mistake with moss rose. It's crucial to let the soil dry out between waterings to prevent root rot. The plant prefers its soil on the dry side rather than overly moist.
Signs of Thirst
When moss rose needs watering, its leaves will start to appear wilted, and the plant may droop. However, be vigilant not to water too frequently as the plant is drought-tolerant and can handle a certain level of drought stress.
Signs of Over-watering
If the leaves of moss rose are turning yellow and becoming mushy, it is a sign of over-watering. Additionally, root rot may occur, and the plant may show stunted growth or develop blackened roots.
Watering during Heatwaves
During heatwaves, moss rose may benefit from additional waterings to combat the increased evaporation. Increase the frequency of watering, but avoid excessive amounts in a single watering session.
Watering during Extended Rain
During extended periods of rain, be cautious not to over-water moss rose. If the soil becomes saturated, it's advisable to temporarily reduce watering until the soil has a chance to dry out slightly.
Watering when Stressed
If moss rose is under stress due to extreme heat or disease, adjust the watering routine accordingly. Providing slightly more water during these times can help the plant recover and support its overall health.
Mulching for Water Retention
Applying a layer of organic mulch, such as bark or compost, around the base of moss rose can help retain soil moisture and reduce evaporation. This is especially beneficial in hot and dry climates.
Avoid Wetting the Foliage
When watering moss rose, direct the water flow towards the base of the plant to prevent wetting the foliage. Wet leaves can promote the growth of fungal diseases, so it's best to keep the leaves dry.
Considering Hydroponics? How to Manage a Water-Grown Moss Rose
Overview
Hydroponics, a method of cultivating plants in water without soil, could be very beneficial for moss rose. Given moss rose's ability to thrive in poor soil conditions, this method allows more control over nutrient distribution directly to roots and reduces pest issues, making it ideal for moss rose's growth and vitality.
Best Suited Hydroponic System
The Ebb and Flow (Flood and Drain) system is particularly suitable for moss rose due to its simplicity and effectiveness. The intermittent soaking and draining of the plant's root system prevents its oversaturation while supplying it with nutrients, air, and water. This mimics the natural environment of moss rose and helps prevent issues such as waterlogging.
Nutrient Solution
Moss rose prefers a balanced nutrient solution with a pH of 5.8-6.2 for optimal growth. The solution should consist of a standard mix of micro and macronutrients, changed every two weeks to prevent nutrient depletion. Regular monitoring of nutrient levels is critical to avoid imbalances that could lead to root or foliage damage.
Common Challenges
Common issues faced during moss rose's hydroponic cultivation include root rot due to over-watering, nutrient imbalances due to poor management of the solution's concentration and pH, and light requirements. Moss rose does require ample sunlight (6 hours minimum) to properly bloom. Providing the necessary light indoors may be a challenge for some growers.
Plant Health Monitoring
Look out for signs such as leaf discoloration, wilting, slow growth or lack of blooming as indications of health issues in moss rose grown hydroponically. These symptoms can indicate problems with nutrient balance, light, or pH level, which should prompt checks on solution parameters and adjustments where necessary.
Environment Adjustment
The hydroponic environment's parameters should be adjusted based on moss rose's specific needs during different growth stages. Seedlings may require higher humidity and lower nutrient levels, while mature plants need more light and nutrients. Adjustments should also be made in response to any visible signs of plant stress.
Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Overwatering can easily lead to disease symptoms in Moss rose, as it has evolved mechanisms to survive drought conditions. For instance, the plant stores water in its tissues, closes its stomata, and reduces water loss. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, brown or black spots, leaf rot...
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Brown or black spots
Excessive watering can damage the plant's root system, making it vulnerable to fungal infections. The plant may develop dark brown to black spots that spread upwards from the lower leaves which are usually the first to be affected.
Leaf rot
Overwatering can cause the leaves to become waterlogged, leading to rotting when the environment is humid.
Soft or mushy stems
Excess water can cause stems to become soft and mushy, as the cells become waterlogged and lose their structural integrity.
Root rot
Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Increased susceptibility diseases
Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
For Moss rose, it is not prone to experiencing plant health issues due to lack of watering. However, it is possible to suffer from dehydration if watering is consistently forgotten for an extended period. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, yellowing leaves, root damage...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Wilting
Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Yellowing leaves
The leaves may begin to yellow or develop dry tips as a result of water stress and reduced nutrient uptake.
Root damage
Prolonged underwatering can cause root damage, making it difficult for the plant to absorb water even when it is available.
Slow growth
The plant may exhibit delayed development or slow growth due to not receiving enough water to support its growth.
Increased susceptibility to pests and diseases
Underwatered plants may become more susceptible to pests and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.
Watering Troubleshooting for Moss Rose
Why are the leaves on my moss rose turning yellow?
Yellowing leaves could be a sign of overwatering. This plant prefers dry conditions, try to allow the soil to completely dry out between watering and ensure your pot or planter has good drainage to avoid waterlogged soil.
Why is my moss rose starting to wilt and look poorly?
This could be due to underwatering. Moss rose are succulent plants and prefer a decent amount of water, especially during dry spells. Monitor the condition of soil and feel its moisture level prior to watering. Water thoroughly, and then let it dry out before you water again.
What happens if I water my moss rose too much?
Overwatering can lead to root rot, a common problem in moss rose that can lead to the death of the plant. If your plant is drooping, has yellow leaves and a rotting smell, then it might be suffering from root rot. To treat the problem, remove the plant from its existing soil, cut away any black, mushy roots, and then replant in fresh, well-draining soil. Going forward, reduce your watering and ensure the plant has proper drainage.
I spotted some mold on the soil of my moss rose. What should I do?
Mold is a sign of too much moisture which can be due to overwatering. Cut back on watering, allow the soil to dry out, and remove the mold from the soil surface. If the problem persists, repotting the plant in new soil may be necessary. To prevent mold, maintain a regular watering schedule and avoid overly saturating the soil.
Why are the leaves of my moss rose looking dried out despite regular watering?
This could be a sign of poor water absorption. Although the moss rose is a succulent and can thrive in dry soils, it still requires adequate water. If the water isn't penetrating the soil and reaching the root system, it can lead to dried out leaves. Try deep watering technique, where you water the plant slowly and deeply, to ensure water reaches the root zone. Make sure, however, to allow the soil to dry before the next watering.
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Lighting
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness. Essentials
Moss rose flourishes in regions where the sun is fully visible and not obscured. This assists its growth and development, yet it shows resilience when exposed to areas having a moderate share of sunshine. Too much or too little sun may be detrimental, leading to poor foliage and bloom.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Moss rose is a beloved choice for indoor gardening, and they require strong light to thrive. However, when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting, they may develop symptoms of light deficiency.
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Impact on flowering and fruiting
Your plant may not show obvious abnormalities due to insufficient sunlight, but it can have adverse effects on future flowering and fruiting.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your moss rose may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Slower or no new growth
Moss rose enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Moss rose require strong light to thrive, and some are remarkably resilient to sun exposure, rarely suffering from sunburn.
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Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care. Essentials
Moss rose is native to warm regions and thrives in temperatures between 68 to 100°F (20 to 38℃). Cooler temperatures can see a slowdown in growth. In the colder months, move it to a warmer, sheltered spot to keep it thriving.
Regional wintering strategies
Moss rose is a heat-loving plant that gradually stops growing and enters a dormant state during the winter. When the outdoor temperature drops below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it should be moved indoors for cultivation. Choose a location near a south-facing window to provide as much sunlight as possible. If there is insufficient natural light, supplemental lighting can be used. When the temperature falls below {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}, the plant's growth slows down, and watering should be reduced or stopped to prevent root rot. For Moss rose grown outdoors, watering should be completely halted during low temperatures. If feasible, you can set up a temporary greenhouse for insulation or use materials such as plastic film or fabric to wrap the plant during cold temperatures.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Moss rose thrives in high temperatures and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It grows best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the plant may become weak, wilt, and be prone to root rot. In cases of mild frost damage, there may not be any initial symptoms, but after a week, the plant will gradually wither.
Solutions
Trim off the frostbitten areas, paying attention to whether the roots have rotted. If the roots have rotted, they need to be cut off, and the plant can be propagated through cuttings. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment and place the plant near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. If there is insufficient light, you can use supplemental lighting.
High Temperature
During summer, Moss rose should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant's growth will cease, it will experience water loss, wilting, and becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Remove the sunburned and rotten parts. Shield the plant from afternoon sunlight until it recovers and starts growing again. For plants with root rot, stop watering until new roots begin to emerge.
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Transplant
How to Successfully Transplant Moss Rose?
To ensure successful transplantation of moss rose, it's best to move them during the heart of spring when temperatures are ideal. Choose a sunny location with well-drained soil. Remember to keep the root ball intact, offering moss rose a seamless transition to their new environment.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Moss Rose?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Moss Rose?
Re-positioning moss rose during the mid-Spring or what you might call the heart of the growing season is ideal. This timing allows moss rose to adapt to the new surroundings before the full heat of summer. Transplanting in this period promises luscious blooms in summer. It also gives roots time to settle and grow strong without the stress of excessive heat.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Moss Rose Plants?
For moss rose, it's best to give them some room to grow. Space the plants 6-12 inches (15-30 cm) apart during transplanting for optimal growth and beautiful blooms.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Moss Rose Transplanting?
Prepare a well-draining soil mix for moss rose, enriched with organic matter or compost. Add a balanced, slow-release fertilizer to the base to give them the nutrients they need to thrive.
Where Should You Relocate Your Moss Rose?
Moss rose loves sunlight, so find a spot in your garden that gets at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily. This will ensure vibrant colors and healthy growth for your plants.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Moss Rose?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while handling the plant and soil.
Shovel or Spade
To help dig up the plant from its original location and create a hole in the new location.
Trowel
To aid in lifting small plants or seedlings.
Pruners
To trim away any damaged roots or foliage.
Bucket or Wheelbarrow
To transport the plant from the old location to the new one.
Watering Can
For watering the plant before and after the transplant.
Compost
To add to the new hole to provide nutrients to the plant.
How Do You Remove Moss Rose from the Soil?
Step1 Replanting Timing
Ideally, transplant in the evening or on a cloudy day, this will help the moss rose recover before it's exposed to full sunlight.
Step2 Planting Hole
Dig a hole at the new location using your shovel, making it twice as wide and equal in depth to the root ball of the moss rose plant.
Step3 Compost
Put a small amount of compost into the hole, this will provide nutrients for the plant.
Step4 Plant Positioning
Position your moss rose in the hole. The top of the root ball should be level with the ground surface. Backfill the hole with soil, firming gently around the base of the moss rose.
Step5 Watering
Water the moss rose thoroughly after transplanting. During the first few days, keep an eye on the plant to ensure it doesn’t dry out.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Moss Rose
Step1 Replanting Timing
Ideally, transplant in the evening or on a cloudy day, this will help the moss rose recover before it's exposed to full sunlight.
Step2 Planting Hole
Dig a hole at the new location using your shovel, making it twice as wide and equal in depth to the root ball of the moss rose plant.
Step3 Compost
Put a small amount of compost into the hole, this will provide nutrients for the plant.
Step4 Plant Positioning
Position your moss rose in the hole. The top of the root ball should be level with the ground surface. Backfill the hole with soil, firming gently around the base of the moss rose.
Step5 Watering
Water the moss rose thoroughly after transplanting. During the first few days, keep an eye on the plant to ensure it doesn’t dry out.
How Do You Care For Moss Rose After Transplanting?
Monitoring
Keep an eye on the moss rose for the first few weeks after transplanting. Check the leaves for signs of stress or disease, and ensure the plant stays upright.
Watering
Water the moss rose plant regularly, especially on hot or dry days, but be mindful not to overwater as the moss rose doesn't like to be waterlogged.
Pruning
After a few weeks, prune any dead or damaged stems to encourage more growth.
Protection
Protect moss rose from harsh winds and intense heat for the first few weeks until it settles into its new location.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Moss Rose Transplantation.
When is the best time to transplant moss rose?
The best time to transplant moss rose is during mid-spring, when the weather becomes consistently warm.
What's the ideal spacing for transplanting moss rose?
Give your moss rose ample room to grow. Space each plant around 6–12 inches (15–30 cm) apart.
How should I prepare the soil before planting moss rose?
Prepare a well-draining soil enriched with organic matter before transplanting. Moss rose doesn't tolerate waterlogged conditions.
What's the ideal depth for planting moss rose?
Ensure the root ball of moss rose is level with the soil surface. Avoid planting them too deep.
How should I water moss rose after transplanting?
Water moss rose thoroughly after transplanting and then sparingly. These plants are drought-tolerant and over-watering can cause root rot.
Do I need to add fertilizer while transplanting moss rose?
If you've enriched the soil with organic matter, no additional fertilizer is needed during transplanting moss rose.
What kind of light conditions do moss rose require after transplanting?
Moss rose thrives in full sunlight. A minimum of 6 hours of direct sunlight per day is recommended.
What should I do if the leaves of moss rose are turning yellow after transplanting?
Yellow leaves can signal over-watering or poor drainage. Let the soil dry before watering and ensure proper draining conditions.
After transplanting, my moss rose looks wilted, what should I do?
First, check the watering level—it could be too much or too little. Also, make sure moss rose gets enough sunlight.
How would I know if I have successfully transplanted moss rose?
A successful transplant of moss rose will show new growth within a few weeks, including fresh leaves or flower buds.
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