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Add to My Garden Common selfheal
Prunella vulgaris
Also known as: Heart-of-the-earth, Blue curls
Common selfheal (Prunella vulgaris) is a flowering herb found in temperate habitats. It grows along roadsides, wastelands, and is also often planted in gardens. Young common selfheal leaves can be used as salad constituents or cooked in soups and stews. It is best to wash the bitter tannin off the leaves before eating them. An olive-colored dye can be made using the stems.
Hardiness Zones
4 to 9
Care Guide for Common selfheal
Common selfheal prefers soil that is consistently moist, but not waterlogged. It is better to allow the soil to dry out before giving it a slow, thorough saturation of water around the root zone. In drier weather or if in a sunny position, you may need to water it more often.
Common selfheal does benefit from twice-a-year application of fertilizer - once in the spring and again in the summer. In the spring, using a balanced fertilizer or compost is best; avoid using one with too much nitrogen, as that will reduce the summer flowers. In the summer, use another balanced fertilizer.
Sand, Chalky, Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Full sun, Partial sun
4 to 9
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Common selfheal
Water
Every week
Hardiness Zones
4 to 9
Planting Time
Spring
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Common selfheal
Water
Every week
Hardiness Zones
4 to 9
Planting Time
Spring
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Common selfheal
Water
Every week
Hardiness Zones
4 to 9
Planting Time
Spring
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Questions About Common selfheal
Watering 
Pruning 
Sunlight 
Temperature 
Fertilizing What is the best way to water my Common selfheal?
When watering the Common selfheal, you should aim to use filtered water that is at room temperature. Filtered water is better for this plant, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to its health. The reason that the water should be at room temperature or slightly warmer is that the Common selfheal comes from a warm environment, and cold water can be somewhat of a shock to its system. Also, you should avoid overhead watering for this plant, as it can cause foliage complications. Instead, simply apply your filtered room temperature water to the soil until the soil is entirely soaked. Soaking the soil can be very beneficial for this plant as it moistens the roots and helps them continue to spread through the soil and collect the nutrients they need.
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What should I do if I water my Common selfheal too much or too little?
Both overwatering and underwatering will be detrimental to the health of your Common selfheal, but overwatering is a far more common issue. When this species receives too much water, its stems and leaves may begin to wilt and turn from green to yellow. Overwatering over a prolonged period may also lead to diseases such as root rot, mold, and mildew, all of which can kill your plant. Underwatering is far less common for the Common selfheal, as this plant has decent drought tolerance. However, underwatering remains a possibility, and when it occurs, you can expect to find that the leaves of your Common selfheal have become brittle and brown.
It is crucial that you notice the signs of overwatering as soon as possible when caring for your Common selfheal. Some of the diseases that arise from overwatering, such as root rot, may not be correctable if you wait too long. If you see early signs of overwatering, you should reduce your watering schedule immediately. You may also want to assess the quality of soil in which your Common selfheal grows. If you find that the soil drains very poorly, you should replace it immediately with a loose, well-draining potting mix. On the other hand, if you find signs that your Common selfheal is receiving too little water, all you need to do is water more regularly until those signs have subsided.
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How often should I water my Common selfheal?
If your plant is in a pot. The most precise way to decide whether your Common selfheal needs water is to plunge your finger into the soil. If you notice that the first two to three inches of soil have become dry, it is time to add some water.
If you grow your Common selfheal outdoors in the ground, you can use a similar method to test the soil. Again, when you find that the first few inches of soil have dried out, it is time to add water. During the spring and early fall, this method will often lead you to water this plant about once every week. When extremely hot weather arrives, you may need to increase your watering frequency to about twice or more per week. With that said, mature, well-established the Common selfheal can show an admirable ability to withstand drought.
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How much water does my Common selfheal need?
When it comes time to water your Common selfheal, you should not be shy about how much water you give. With the first two to three inches of soil dry, this plant will appreciate a long and thorough watering. Supply enough water to soak the soil entirely. The amount of water you add should be enough to cause excess water to flow through the drainage holes at the bottom of your pot. If you don’t see excess water draining from the pot, you have likely underwatered your plant. But do not let the water accumulate inside the soil, which will be very dangerous to the plant as well. Alternatively, a lack of water draining through the pot could indicate poorly draining soils, which is detrimental to the health of this plant and should be avoided. If the plant is outside, 1 inch of rain per week will be sufficient.
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How should I water my Common selfheal at different growth stages?
The water needs of the Common selfheal can change depending on growth stages as well. For example, when your Common selfheal is in the first few years of its life, or if you have just transplanted it to a new growing location, you will need to give more water than usual. During both of those stages, your Common selfheal will put a lot of energy towards sprouting new roots that will then support future growth. For those roots to perform their best, they need a bit more moisture than they would at a more mature phase. After a few seasons, your Common selfheal will need much less water. Another growth stage in which this plant may need more water is during the bloom period. Flower development can make use of a significant amount of moisture, which is why you might need to give your Common selfheal more water at this time.
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How should I water my Common selfheal through the seasons?
The Common selfheal will have its highest water needs during the hottest months of the year. During the height of summer, you may need to give this plant water more than once per week, depending on how fast the soil dries out. The opposite is true during the winter. In winter, your plant will enter a dormant phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. In fact, you may not need to water this plant at all during the winter months. However, if you do water during winter, you should not do so more than about once per month. Watering too much at this time will make it more likely that your Common selfheal will contract a disease.
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What's the difference between watering my Common selfheal indoors and outdoors?
It is most common to grow the Common selfheal indoors for any gardener that does not live in temperate and tropical regions. Those gardeners should consider the fact that soil in a container can dry out a bit faster than ground soil. Also, the presence of drying elements such as air conditioning units can cause your Common selfheal to need water on a more frequent basis as well. if you planted it outside. When that is the case, it’s likely you won’t need to water your Common selfheal very much at all. If you receive rainfall on a regular basis, that may be enough to keep your plant alive. Alternatively, those who grow this plant inside will need to water it more often, as allowing rainwater to soak the soil will not be an option.
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More About How-Tos
Explore 6 of plant how-tos on Feng shui direction, Water, Lighting, Temperature, Transplant, etc.
Feng shui direction
South
The common selfheal expresses a harmonious balance in Feng Shui, with energy that strengthens and soothes concurrently. Its South-facing placement is generally associated with fame and reputation. The plant's vitality and durability subtly signify a solid reputation, in line with the features a southern position symbolizes. Remember, individual experiences may differ as Feng Shui is multifarious, subjective, and deeply rooted in personal contemplation.
Water
Every week
Common selfheal prefers a well-drained soil with moderate moisture. It can tolerate some dryness, but avoid waterlogging. Originating in moist meadows and woodland edges, it adapts well to varying watering conditions. Adjust watering as necessary during seasonal changes.
Lighting
Full sun
Common selfheal thrives under a generous amount of solar exposure, but it's also resilient enough to grow with less. Its origin environment, typical open fields, is a testament to its need for light. At different growth stages, its need for sun doesn't vary significantly. Both excessive or insufficient light could hinder its growth.
Temperature
-10 to 35 ℃
Common selfheal is a temperate plant species that prefers a temperature range of 41 to 95 ℉ (5 to 35 ℃). In its native growth environment, it requires a temperate climate with mild summers and cool winters. For adjusting to different seasons, it is recommended to keep the plant in a well-ventilated location during hot summers and in a sheltered area with protection from frost during the winter months.
Transplant
0.5-1 feet
Common selfheal, as a perennial plant, thrives when transplanted during spring to early summer (S1-S3). In a partially-shaded location with rich, well-drained soil, common selfheal will establish well. A tip to remember: ensure it's watered frequently in the early transplanting stage to facilitate growth.
Pollination
Easy
The enchanting common selfheal primarily relies on bees as pollinators, seducing them with luscious nectar and enthralling colors. Characterized by its cross-pollination mechanism, common selfheal embraces diversity, fostering the continual ebb and flow of genetic material. Peak pollination occurs in mid-summer, coinciding with the bees' most active period, guaranteeing an efficient pollination process and a perennial display of its exquisite blooms.
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Common selfheal based on 10 million real cases
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.
Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
- Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
- Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
- Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
- Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.
Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.
Solutions
There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering:
- Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost.
- Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Prevention
Preventative measures include:
- Ensuring adequate spacing between plants or trees.
- Staking plants that are prone to tumbling to prevent moisture or humidity build up.
- Prune correctly so that there is adequate air movement and remove any dead or diseased branches that may carry spores.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing fallen material and destroying it as soon as possible.
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
- Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
- Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
- Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
- Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
- Avoid warm temperatures
- Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
- Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
- Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
- Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
- Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
- Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
- Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
- Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
- Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
- Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
- Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
- Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
- Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
- Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
- Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
- Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
- Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
- Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
- Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
- Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Weed Control
Weeds
The common selfheal is a weed native to Europe, Asia, and the Americas. It is considered an invasive weed in several Pacific Islands, Chile, the United Kingdom, and New Zealand where it threatens natural habitats and plants by absorbing natural water, nutrients, space, and light. However, it can be used for erosion control in at-risk areas because of its extensive root system and tendency to spread quickly. The weed offers a source of nectar for pollinators. It also gets put to ornamental, landscaping, and herbal uses. When necessary, treating common selfheal with herbicide, mowing, or a combination of these methods is effective at eradicating the weed.
How to Control it
Optimal removal time: before fruiting Removal: In early autumn or early spring, weeds can be removed with gloves or with the help of tools. Because it is a long-lived plant, its root system needs to be removed to prevent it from growing again. Chemical control: Herbicides can be effectively removed if the number of weeds is large. Mowing: Mowing twice a year at the end of spring. Weeds can be effectively controlled for two consecutive years. Large areas of weeds can be cut by machines.
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Distribution Map
Habitat
Waste ground, grassland, woodland edges
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info
Plant Type
Herb
Bloom Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Early summer, Mid summer
Leaf Color
Green
Name story
Common self-heal
The genus name, Prunella originates from the German word for quinsy. It is said that the name "self-heal" is inspired by its medicinal effect on a severe sore throat caused by tonsil abscess. The specific epithet, vulgaris meaning "common" indicates the plant's ubiquitous nature.
Symbolism
Be conscientious and diligent, be able to distinguish right from wrong, vitality, healing
Usages
Garden Use
Commonly kept in butterfly and pollinator gardens, the common selfheal is also well adapted to lawns and rock gardens. It can be used in borders, groundcover, and may help control erosion in landscaping. It is also prized as an edible plant and will bloom throughout summer to fall. The common selfheal is well accompanied by creeping phlox, veronica, and campanula plants.
Scientific Classification
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Pests & Diseases
Weed Control
Distribution
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Add to My Garden Common selfheal
Prunella vulgaris
Also known as: Heart-of-the-earth, Blue curls
Common selfheal (Prunella vulgaris) is a flowering herb found in temperate habitats. It grows along roadsides, wastelands, and is also often planted in gardens. Young common selfheal leaves can be used as salad constituents or cooked in soups and stews. It is best to wash the bitter tannin off the leaves before eating them. An olive-colored dye can be made using the stems.
Hardiness Zones
4 to 9
Care Guide for Common selfheal
Water
Common selfheal prefers soil that is consistently moist, but not waterlogged. It is better to allow the soil to dry out before giving it a slow, thorough saturation of water around the root zone. In drier weather or if in a sunny position, you may need to water it more often.
Fertilization
Common selfheal does benefit from twice-a-year application of fertilizer - once in the spring and again in the summer. In the spring, using a balanced fertilizer or compost is best; avoid using one with too much nitrogen, as that will reduce the summer flowers. In the summer, use another balanced fertilizer.
Soil
Sand, Chalky, Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Sunlight
Full sun, Partial sun
Hardiness Zones
4 to 9
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Questions About Common selfheal
Watering Pruning Sunlight Temperature Fertilizing What is the best way to water my Common selfheal?
What should I do if I water my Common selfheal too much or too little?
How often should I water my Common selfheal?
How much water does my Common selfheal need?
How should I water my Common selfheal at different growth stages?
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Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Common selfheal based on 10 million real cases
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.
Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
- Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
- Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
- Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
- Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.
Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.
Solutions
There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering:
- Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost.
- Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Prevention
Preventative measures include:
- Ensuring adequate spacing between plants or trees.
- Staking plants that are prone to tumbling to prevent moisture or humidity build up.
- Prune correctly so that there is adequate air movement and remove any dead or diseased branches that may carry spores.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing fallen material and destroying it as soon as possible.
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
- Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
- Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
- Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
- Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
- Avoid warm temperatures
- Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
- Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
- Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
- Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
- Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
- Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
- Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
- Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
- Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
- Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
- Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
- Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
- Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
- Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
- Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
- Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
- Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
- Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
- Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
- Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Weed Control
Weeds
The common selfheal is a weed native to Europe, Asia, and the Americas. It is considered an invasive weed in several Pacific Islands, Chile, the United Kingdom, and New Zealand where it threatens natural habitats and plants by absorbing natural water, nutrients, space, and light. However, it can be used for erosion control in at-risk areas because of its extensive root system and tendency to spread quickly. The weed offers a source of nectar for pollinators. It also gets put to ornamental, landscaping, and herbal uses. When necessary, treating common selfheal with herbicide, mowing, or a combination of these methods is effective at eradicating the weed.
How to Control it
Optimal removal time: before fruiting Removal: In early autumn or early spring, weeds can be removed with gloves or with the help of tools. Because it is a long-lived plant, its root system needs to be removed to prevent it from growing again. Chemical control: Herbicides can be effectively removed if the number of weeds is large. Mowing: Mowing twice a year at the end of spring. Weeds can be effectively controlled for two consecutive years. Large areas of weeds can be cut by machines.
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Distribution Map
Habitat
Waste ground, grassland, woodland edges
Map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info
Plant Type
Herb
Bloom Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Early summer, Mid summer
Leaf Color
Green
Name story
Common self-heal
The genus name, Prunella originates from the German word for quinsy. It is said that the name "self-heal" is inspired by its medicinal effect on a severe sore throat caused by tonsil abscess. The specific epithet, vulgaris meaning "common" indicates the plant's ubiquitous nature.
Symbolism
Be conscientious and diligent, be able to distinguish right from wrong, vitality, healing
Usages
Garden Use
Commonly kept in butterfly and pollinator gardens, the common selfheal is also well adapted to lawns and rock gardens. It can be used in borders, groundcover, and may help control erosion in landscaping. It is also prized as an edible plant and will bloom throughout summer to fall. The common selfheal is well accompanied by creeping phlox, veronica, and campanula plants.
Scientific Classification
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Water
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor potted
In the ground
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Essentials
Common selfheal prefers a well-drained soil with moderate moisture. It can tolerate some dryness, but avoid waterlogging. Originating in moist meadows and woodland edges, it adapts well to varying watering conditions. Adjust watering as necessary during seasonal changes.
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Spring
Summer
Autumn
Winter
Morning
Noonday
Evening
Morning watering can reduce the risk of fungal growth. Requirements
Every week
Watering Frequency
Smart Seasonal Watering
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Just like people, each plant has its own preferences and needs. Devote time to understanding your plants so you can nurture them properly. Observe your plants attentively, learning from their growth patterns, and becoming more in tune with their needs as you grow together. Keep a watchful eye on new plants and seedlings, as they are sensitive to both overwatering and underwatering. Shower them with gentle love and attention, fostering their growth and strength. Let the rhythm of your local climate guide your watering habits, adapting your schedule to the changing weather and the needs of your plants. Amount and Approach
Watering from the soil
1. Gradually pour water to the soil from above.
2. Stop watering your plant once water begins to flow out of the drainage holes in the pot.
3. Allow it to rest for 1 minute, then discard any water remaining in the tray, making sure your plant is not sitting in the water.
Avoid watering the leaves or flowers. Use a watering can with a long spout when watering to reduce bending and exertion, and ease your fatigue. Watering from the bottom
1. Fill the tray with water, ensure that the soil makes contact with the water.
2. Let it rest for 10 minutes.
3. Drain excess water from the tray if the soil is uniformly damp.
4. Watering more to the tray if the soil remains dry.
5. Allow it to sit for an additional 20 minutes before draining any excess water.
Avoid watering the leaves or flowers. Use a watering can with a long spout when watering to reduce bending and exertion, and ease your fatigue. Soaking the water
1. Select a location for soaking your plants, such as a tray or bathtub.
2. Pour a few centimeters of fresh water into the bottom of your chosen container.
3. Soaking your plant pots within the water, allowing them to absorb moisture for 1 hour.
4. Remove the plants from the water and let them dry.
Avoid watering the leaves or flowers. Use a watering can with a long spout when watering to reduce bending and exertion, and ease your fatigue. For Common selfheal, outdoor watering can be done using the method of sprinkling. It is a simple and direct approach. It involves pouring water onto the soil around the plant, allowing the water to naturally seep into the root zone. Typically, containers such as watering cans, buckets, or watering jugs are used for sprinkling. Depending on the size of the plant, usually, 1-2 gallons of water are required to ensure the soil around the roots is thoroughly moistened.
Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Common selfheal is more susceptible to developing disease symptoms when overwatered because it prefers a soil environment with moderate humidity. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, brown or black spots, root rot...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Brown or black spots
Excessive watering can damage the plant's root system, making it vulnerable to fungal infections. The plant may develop dark brown to black spots that spread upwards from the lower leaves which are usually the first to be affected.
Root rot
Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Soft or mushy stems
Excess water can cause stems to become soft and mushy, as the cells become waterlogged and lose their structural integrity.
Increased susceptibility diseases
Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
Common selfheal is more susceptible to plant health issues when lacking watering, as it can only tolerate short periods of drought. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, leaf curling, yellowing leaves...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Wilting
Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Leaf curling
Leaves may curl inward or downward as they attempt to conserve water and minimize water loss through transpiration.
Increased susceptibility to pests and diseases
Underwatered plants may become more susceptible to pests and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Dying plant
If underwatering continues for an extended period, the plant may ultimately die as a result of severe water stress and an inability to carry out essential functions.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.
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Lighting
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness. Essentials
Common selfheal thrives under a generous amount of solar exposure, but it's also resilient enough to grow with less. Its origin environment, typical open fields, is a testament to its need for light. At different growth stages, its need for sun doesn't vary significantly. Both excessive or insufficient light could hinder its growth.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Common selfheal is a versatile plant that thrives in full sunlight but can tolerate partial shade. While it can adapt to different light conditions, when grown indoors with insufficient light, subtle symptoms of light deficiency may arise.
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Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your common selfheal may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Common selfheal enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Common selfheal thrives in full sun exposure but can adapt to partial shade. Although sunburn symptoms occur occasionally, they are generally tolerant of different light conditions due to their resilience.
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Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care. Essentials
Common selfheal is a temperate plant species that prefers a temperature range of 41 to 95 ℉ (5 to 35 ℃). In its native growth environment, it requires a temperate climate with mild summers and cool winters. For adjusting to different seasons, it is recommended to keep the plant in a well-ventilated location during hot summers and in a sheltered area with protection from frost during the winter months.
Regional wintering strategies
Common selfheal has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by covering the plant with materials such as soil or straw. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Common selfheal is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, there may be a decrease in sprouting or even no sprouting during springtime.
Solutions
In spring, remove any parts that have failed to sprout.
High Temperature
During summer, Common selfheal should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, prone to curling, susceptible to sunburn, and in severe cases, the entire plant may wilt and become dry.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
How to Successfully Transplant Common selfheal?
Common selfheal, as a perennial plant, thrives when transplanted during spring to early summer (S1-S3). In a partially-shaded location with rich, well-drained soil, common selfheal will establish well. A tip to remember: ensure it's watered frequently in the early transplanting stage to facilitate growth.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Common selfheal?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Common selfheal?
The perfect time to transplant common selfheal is during the cooler seasons, preferably spring (S1) or fall (S3). These seasons ensure minimal evaporation, and the young roots can establish with ease. Transplanting common selfheal in this period gives it a healthy, strong start while maintaining its ornamental allure. These strategic schedules eliminate stress for common selfheal, ensuring vivid growth and resilience.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Common selfheal Plants?
When transplanting common selfheal, ensure to leave a space of about 0.5-1 feet (15-30 cm) between each plant. This will allow enough room for common selfheal to grow and spread without competition for resources.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Common selfheal Transplanting?
For optimal growth, common selfheal likes well-draining soil. Before transplanting, enrich the soil with organic matter. Use a compost or well-rotted manure as your base fertilizer, promoting strong roots and healthy growth for common selfheal.
Where Should You Relocate Your Common selfheal?
Select a place in your garden where common selfheal can get full sun to partial shade. However, if you're in a particularly hot region, provide some afternoon shade to prevent common selfheal from wilting.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Common selfheal?
Shovel or Garden Spade
To dig into the soil during plant removal and hole preparation;
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the soil and common selfheal;
Pruners or Scissors
To trim damaged roots, which will encourage healthier growth of your common selfheal plant;
Watering Can or Garden Hose
To moisten the soil and water common selfheal after transplantation;
Wheelbarrow or Tarp
To transport common selfheal plant from the original location to its new location.
How Do You Remove Common selfheal from the Soil?
Firstly, take a look at the soil and roots. Trim away any damaged or overly long roots with a pair of clean, sharp gardening scissors or pruners. This encourages the growth of new, healthy roots.
Dig a hole at the new location, ideally twice as wide but not deeper than the root ball. The wide hole gives roots space to spread and grow.
Place common selfheal in the hole, making sure it's planted at the same depth it was growing at in its original location. Fill halfway with soil and water slightly to help remove any air bubbles.
Fill in the remaining hole, firming the soil around common selfheal but avoiding over-packing because this can prevent water from reaching the roots. Water the plant thoroughly.
Monitor common selfheal over the next few days, watering when necessary, and shading it from intense midday sun to reduce stress and aid in its establishment in the new area.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Common selfheal
Step1 Root Trimming
Firstly, take a look at the soil and roots. Trim away any damaged or overly long roots with a pair of clean, sharp gardening scissors or pruners. This encourages the growth of new, healthy roots.
Step2 Hole Preparation
Dig a hole at the new location, ideally twice as wide but not deeper than the root ball. The wide hole gives roots space to spread and grow.
Step3 Positioning
Place common selfheal in the hole, making sure it's planted at the same depth it was growing at in its original location. Fill halfway with soil and water slightly to help remove any air bubbles.
Step4 Completing the Process
Fill in the remaining hole, firming the soil around common selfheal but avoiding over-packing because this can prevent water from reaching the roots. Water the plant thoroughly.
Step5 Monitoring
Monitor common selfheal over the next few days, watering when necessary, and shading it from intense midday sun to reduce stress and aid in its establishment in the new area.
How Do You Care For Common selfheal After Transplanting?
Watering
Water common selfheal regularly after transplanting, especially in the first few weeks, so that the plant can quickly establish new roots in its new environment. However, avoid over-watering to prevent root rot.
Pruning
If you notice any wilting or dead leaves on the common selfheal, prune them back to encourage new, healthier growth.
Monitoring
Keep an eye out for any signs of disease or pests. Transplants are usually more susceptible to stress and diseases, so early detection is key to preventing any severe damage to your common selfheal plant.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Common selfheal Transplantation.
What's the best time of year to transplant common selfheal?
The optimal season to transplant common selfheal is between early spring and early summer. This period provides the best conditions for the plant to root and establish quickly.
What is the ideal spacing when planting common selfheal?
Each common selfheal plant should have a space of about 0.5-1 feet (15-30 cm) between them. This ensures enough room for optimal growth and prevents overcrowding.
How deep should I plant common selfheal during transplantation?
Dig a hole as deep as the root ball of your common selfheal. Keeping the top level of the root ball even with the soil surface. This helps in proper root growth.
How frequently should common selfheal be watered after transplantation?
Ensure you water common selfheal thoroughly immediately after transplantation. Afterwards, maintain moderate watering, about once a week, unless weather conditions require more frequent hydration.
Should I add any fertilizers when transplanting common selfheal?
Common selfheal doesn't require much fertilizer. However, adding well-composted organic matter to the planting hole can benefit root establishment and long-term growth.
Is it necessary to prune common selfheal when transplanting?
Pruning is not generally essential before transplanting common selfheal. However, if the plant has any dead or damaged foliage, it can be removed to enhance growth.
How will I know if my transplanted common selfheal is not thriving?
Signs of struggle in your common selfheal can include wilting, discoloration, stunted growth, and leaf drop. These may indicate issues such as water stress, pests or disease.
Can common selfheal be transplanted in a pot?
Yes, common selfheal can adapt well to container growth. Make sure the pot has sufficient drainage holes and the container is large enough to accommodate its growth.
How can I reduce transplant shock in common selfheal?
Ensure to water the plant sufficiently and keep it in a less sunny region for a week or two. Gradual adaptation to its new environment would reduce transplant shock.
How soon will common selfheal fully establish after transplantation?
Usually, common selfheal takes about 3-4 weeks to establish after transplantation, during which it may show some signs of stress. It should bounce back with proper care.
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