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Orange crown cactus
Orange crown cactus
Orange crown cactus
Rebutia fiebrigii
The orange crown cactus (Rebutia fiebrigii) is a flowering cactus that grows in a mound. It originates in Bolivia, where it's abundant, and grows in grasslands and slopes near the Andes mountains. When grown as a houseplant, it does best when its soil is allowed to completely dry out between waterings. It is also called the flame crown.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
9 to 11
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care guide

Care Guide for Orange crown cactus

Watering Care
Watering Care
Drought-tolerant. Allow the soil to dry completely between watering.
Details on Watering Care Watering Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilization once every 2-3 months during the growing season.
Details on Fertilizing Care Fertilizing Care
Soil Care
Soil Care
Sand
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
Ideal Lighting
Ideal Lighting
Full sun
Details on Sunlight Requirements Ideal Lighting
Ideal Temperature
Ideal Temperature
9 to 11
Details on Temperature Ideal Temperature
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Orange crown cactus
Water
Water
Every 3 weeks
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
9 to 11
Planting Time
Planting Time
Late spring, Summer, Early fall
question

Questions About Orange crown cactus

Watering Watering Watering
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What should I do if I water my Orange crown cactus too much or too little?
Underwatered Orange crown cactus
Orange crown cactus and other succulents can endure long periods without water, so it’s unusual to find one of these suffering from underwatering. But, if you somehow forgot about your plant and neglected to water it for a month or more, you’ll probably find your Orange crown cactus looking thirsty or with some damage from lack of watering.
It is very easy to identify an underwatered Orange crown cactus. Plant look lacklustre and wrinkled. Some may have dried up completely, turned brown and crispy, or dropped off the plant. And of course, the soil will be completely dried out.
If your Orange crown cactus is thirsty and underwatered, give it plenty of water as soon as possible. Submerging the pot entirely in water for about 5-10 minutes is a good way to make sure the soil and plant are rehydrated properly. When you feel a sense of moisture on the surface of the soil with your finger, it means the watering is done properly.
Overwatered Orange crown cactus
Overwatering is dangerous to Orange crown cactus and can be fatal to your plant if you don’t remedy the situation. Too much moisture over time leads to root rot, which prevents the roots from being able to absorb nutrients and water from the soil. Root rot occurs when wet conditions allow fungi and bacteria to flourish in the soil and feed on roots. When you find that it's overwatered, you'd better change the growing conditions, place it somewhere with more air ventilation and adjust water frequency, for example.
The symptoms of overwatering are yellow, swollen, and translucent organs that may even burst open from being over-full with water. If the problem continues without being treated, plant might turn brown or black, and fall off the plant at the slightest touch. Be sure to check the soil to determine if overwatering is the culprit, as some other issues can cause similar symptoms.
It’s a bit difficult (but not impossible) to save an overwatered plant. The key is catching it early before a lot of damage has occurred. If the roots become rotten, it is likely to kill the entire plant. If you suspect you have overwatered your Orange crown cactus, the first step is to remove it from its pot and check the roots and soil.
After removing the plant from its pot, gently remove wet soil from around the roots and then rinse them clean in room-temperature water. This helps with removing fungus that might be lurking in the soil and allows you to get a better sense of how healthy the roots are. If your plant has already developed root rot, you will see roots that are dark brown or black, soft, mushy, or slimy.
If the majority of the roots are already affected by root rot, it may not be possible to save the plant. In this case, it is best to remove any healthy stem and try to use these to propagate a new Orange crown cactus. If, on the other hand, only a portion of the roots have succumbed to rot and other healthy roots still remain, there is a chance it can be saved.
Use a sterilized cutting tool to remove any unhealthy-looking roots. Once you're left with only the firm, pale roots, it’s a good idea to dip them in a fungicide to kill off any remaining spores. After that you can repot your Orange crown cactus in fresh, free-draining potting soil. While this does not always work to save a succulent with root rot, in most cases this plant will be able to make a full recovery and will put out new growth starting in the next growing season.
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How often should I water my Orange crown cactus?
There’s not a hard-and-fast rule for how often to water Orange crown cactus. The best way to determine this is to check the soil and only water when it’s bone dry. You can either stick your finger in the pot or use a moisture meter to check the soil below the surface. When you plant it in a deep pot, you can do this with a stick or chopstick. If it feels even a little bit moist, wait a few days and check it again.
Most people will need to water Orange crown cactus about every two weeks in summer and once a month in winter, but there are several factors that can change the frequency. The section below lists some considerations that can help you to determine how often to water.
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What should I consider when watering my Orange crown cactus?
There are several environmental conditions that will affect how your Orange crown cactus needs to be watered, including the container size, soil type, temperature, and humidity.
First off, the container and soil you use will determine how often to water and how much water to use each time. Be sure you use a container with plenty of drainage holes in the bottom so extra water can escape the pot. A small container has less room for soil, meaning it won’t hold as much moisture, while a larger pot will stay wet longer and need to be watered less often. It’s important not to keep your Orange crown cactus in an oversized pot as this can easily lead to overwatering. When repotting, move to just one size larger than the current container. A shallow container works better than a deep one, since Orange crown cactus has shallow root systems.
Orange crown cactus will need to be watered less often in winter and more often in the active growing season in spring and autumn. During the winter, growth slows down considerably and the plant isn’t using much energy or water. There is less water lost to evaporation in cooler winter air, meaning that soil stays wet for much longer than it would in the summer.
This also applies to the general climate around your home. If you live in a humid location with a lot of rain, you will need to water less often than if you live in a dry, arid climate. Remember that conditions at the same geographic location can vary significantly with the season and the use of indoor heating and air conditioning.
Outdoor Planting
If Orange crown cactus is planted in the ground, after establishing a root system, it shouldn’t need supplemental water beyond what it receives through precipitation and dew. But if there is a long dry period, you may want to water occasionally. In other areas where Orange crown cactus can only be grown in a container, this plant can be moved outside in the spring and summer when the temperature is proper and then brought back inside when temperatures start to drop. A potted Orange crown cactus kept outside usually needs more water than the same plant kept indoors, because there is a lot more sun exposure even on a shaded porch.
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How to water Orange crown cactus?
The best way to water Orange crown cactus is to soak it thoroughly and then allow it to dry out before it gets watered again. Since this plant is somewhat drought tolerant, you can let it get quite dry before watering again. It is always better to give this type of plant too little water over too much.
When you water, make sure the soil gets thoroughly soaked throughout the whole pot. Don’t pour the water in just one spot, but rather try to go around the whole rim of the planter to be sure that it has a chance to get wet on all sides of the plant. The correct amount of water will depend on the size of your container and how much water your soil absorbs. Give your Orange crown cactus enough water that it drains out from the drainage holes and then (ideally) leave the drained water in the saucer for about 20-30 minutes to absorb into dry pockets of soil. After that, discard any excess water that’s still in the saucer to avoid the soil getting waterlogged.
Bottom-watering is also an excellent method for Orange crown cactus, as you can be sure that the soil gets thoroughly moistened. This process involves placing the pot into a saucer of water and allowing the soil to absorb moisture through the drainage holes. You will know that the soil has absorbed enough water when the top layer is moist. This takes a bit more time than top-watering, but is almost foolproof in getting an even distribution of water throughout the pot.
The original habitat of Orange crown cactus is relatively dry with little rain, but when it rains, the soil will be thoroughly moistened. So you can mimic this situation by bottom-watering your plant when the soil is totally dry. Deep soil bathing is better than frequent light watering for Orange crown cactus.
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Key Facts About Orange crown cactus

Attributes of Orange crown cactus

Lifespan
Perennial
Planting Time
Late spring, Summer, Early fall
Bloom Time
Spring, Mid summer, Late summer
Plant Height
10 cm
Spread
15 cm
Flower Color
Orange
Yellow
Pink
Red
Leaf type
Semi-evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃

Scientific Classification of Orange crown cactus

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Orange crown cactus

Common issues for Orange crown cactus based on 10 million real cases
Stem rot
Stem rot Stem rot
Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do. Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible. Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots. Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized. Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium. Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water. For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
Scars
Scars Scars
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Low light
Low light Low light
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Mealybugs
Mealybugs Mealybugs
Mealybugs
Mealybugs look like powdery white bumps about 1 to 2 mm across. They suck at the plant's sap.
Solutions: Mealybugs are not difficult to control once they are seen. If the gardener is playing close attention they can be dealt with before becoming established. Dip a cotton swab in alcohol and use it to apply alcohol to individual mealybugs. Avoid getting too much alcohol on plants as it will damage them. Rub off mealybugs using a washcloth or your fingers. Use a hose to spray these pests off of your plants. Close examination of the plant on a regular basis is the best weapon against infestation. For severe cases: - Spray entire plant with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Avoid spraying on sunny days and make sure to make contact with the mealybugs. Introduce or promote beneficial insects to the garden that eat mealybugs. Some beneficial insects include parasitic wasps, lady beetles, lacewings, and minute pirate bugs, but the most effective predator is the mealybug destroyer. For a chemical solution, spray a product that contains dinotefuran. Remove and discard heavily-infected plants.
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Stem rot
plant poor
Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Overview
Stem rot is a serious disease and can affect many different types of plants. it can be particularly prevalent when the temperature of the soil is over 16 ℃ and there's a lot of moisture in the soil. This could be from unusually heavy rainfalls or too much irrigation. Once stem rot sets in, it's very difficult to get rid of the disease and most affected plants will have to be discarded. This is especially the case for vegetables, herbs, and other herbaceous plants that have soft stems. This is why it's important to ensure that the soil used for growing these plants is well-drained and that overwatering is avoided. Using good cultural practices also help in curbing these types of fungal diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Plants that have been affected by stem rot will first display a yellowing of the lower leaves. This is followed by obvious wilting and stunted growth.
If the stem of the affected plant is examined closely, there will be some dark discolorations starting near the base and moving upward. If the roots of affected plants are examined, they will appear dark and mushy instead of white and healthy-looking. Eventually, the entire plant will wilt and die.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Stem rot is caused by a variety of soil-borne fungus pathogens. The type of fungus depends on the species of plant that is affected. Two fungi responsible for stem rot are Rhizoctonia and Fusarium. These fungal pathogens live in soil and migrate to the plant when conditions are optimum. This includes warm, humid weather and excessive soil moisture. Commonly, vegetable seedlings are affected by these fungi.
Sclerotinia sclerotiorum is another fungus that causes stem rot in plants. This fungus has a host range of over 350 different species of plants. Plants most susceptible to this fungus include many vegetable varieties such as cucumbers, beans, cilantro, carrots, cabbage, melons, lettuce, peas, onions, tomatoes, pumpkins, and squash. This fungus can produce different symptoms in different species. In some cases, the fungus causes irregular spots on stems and other plant material that appear water-soaked. On other plant species, the fungus appears as dry lesions that grow and girdle the stem of the plant.
The third type of fungus that causes stem rot is Phytophthora capsici. Plants that belong to the cucumber family are most susceptible to this fungal infection. This fungus manifests as water-soaked lesions on the stems that then turn brown and girdle the stem.
All of these fungal pathogens are transmitted to the plant by water splashing from the soil up onto the plant. That's because the fungal spores live in the soil where they wait for the right conditions to infect the plants.
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Scars
plant poor
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Low light
plant poor
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
  1. Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
  2. There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
  3. All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
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Mealybugs
plant poor
Mealybugs
Mealybugs look like powdery white bumps about 1 to 2 mm across. They suck at the plant's sap.
Overview
Overview
Mealybugs are sap-sucking insects of the Pseudococcidae family. They produce a white waxy secretion that makes them look like a dusting of flour. They thrive in warm moist conditions and so are often found on houseplants or in greenhouses, where they tend to hide in crevices such as leaf nodules and at the base of stems. Once in position they don't move and instead focus on sucking sap from the host plant.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
These creatures are quite easy to identify but because they hide in crevices, the gardener will need to be looking for them.
Small white woolly-looking dots will be seen in leaf axis and beneath leaves. Initially it may appear as though the plant has gathered patches of a light flour-like dust or bits of cotton fluff.
Initial infestations tend to be quite minor but left unaddressed, these creatures breed rapidly and can threaten the health of the plant. Severely infested plants will exhibit yellowing leaves that lack normal texture and become soft.
Solutions
Solutions
Mealybugs are not difficult to control once they are seen. If the gardener is playing close attention they can be dealt with before becoming established.
  • Dip a cotton swab in alcohol and use it to apply alcohol to individual mealybugs. Avoid getting too much alcohol on plants as it will damage them.
  • Rub off mealybugs using a washcloth or your fingers.
  • Use a hose to spray these pests off of your plants.
  • Close examination of the plant on a regular basis is the best weapon against infestation.
For severe cases: - Spray entire plant with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Avoid spraying on sunny days and make sure to make contact with the mealybugs.
  • Introduce or promote beneficial insects to the garden that eat mealybugs. Some beneficial insects include parasitic wasps, lady beetles, lacewings, and minute pirate bugs, but the most effective predator is the mealybug destroyer.
  • For a chemical solution, spray a product that contains dinotefuran.
  • Remove and discard heavily-infected plants.
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distribution

Distribution of Orange crown cactus

Habitat of Orange crown cactus

Shrublands, grasslands, rocky slopes, cliffs near rivers, riverbeds
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Orange crown cactus

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
habit
care_scenes

More Info on Orange Crown Cactus Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
Orange crown cactus is a species of the cacti family that thrives best under an abundance of sun full day. Grown in its native habitats, it's exposed to ample of sunlight that aids in the plant's solid growth. Too little light can lead to elongated, pale growth while too much can scorch and damage the plant.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
0 - 43 ℃
Orange crown cactus is a plant native to regions where the temperature fluctuates between 68 to 100.4 °F (20 to 38 ℃). It prefers this warm range. Adjusting its surrounding temperatures to mimic this range, especially during change of seasons, would be beneficial to its health.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
1-2 feet
The best time to transplant orange crown cactus is during the S1-S2 season due to its dormant nature. Choose a spot with ample light and well-drained soil for optimal growth. Remember, it's vital to handle the roots carefully while transplanting to prevent damage.
Transplant Techniques
Feng shui direction
Northeast
Orange crown cactus is deemed congruent with Feng Shui principles, being a symbol of resilience, perseverance and adaptability. It radiates Earth energy, promoting stability and focus. Orange crown cactus resonates harmoniously with the Northeast direction, an area related to spiritual growth and self-cultivation in Feng Shui, echoing the plant's survival instincts. Please remember this analysis could vary based on individual circumstances and personal interpretation of Feng Shui.
Fengshui Details
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Plants Related to Orange crown cactus

Broad-leaved cotton-grass
Broad-leaved cotton-grass
The name broad-leaved cotton-grass is sometimes confusing since this plant and it is also called cotton sedge. Although it does not produce cotton, the seed heads look like large cotton swabs. The cottony appendages help to disperse the seed in the wind. Broad-leaved cotton-grass is the official flower of Greater Manchester.
Bristly hawksbeard
Bristly hawksbeard
Bristly hawksbeard (Crepis setosa) is a common sight in woodlands, meadows, and disturbed land such as roadsides and other man-made environments. Bristly hawksbeard can be recognized by its yellow, daisy-like flowers and the bristly stems for which it got its common name.
Bridge penstemon
Bridge penstemon
Bridge penstemon (Penstemon rostriflorus), also sometimes called beaked penstemon, is a perennial herb that grows in relatively dry environments in the southwestern United States. Its woody stalks reach up to 1 m in height and are topped with clusters of tubular flowers.
Bonking grass
Bonking grass
Bonking grass is a flowering, low-growing groundcover herb. Despite the modest average height of 20 cm, it can spread 2 m wide. The look of the plant can vary, but the shiny leaves usually have a distinct spoon shape. There are indications that bonking grass is the main host plant for the critically endangered New Zealand moth species, Remuremu looper moth (Asaphodes frivola).
Blue-eyed african daisy
Blue-eyed african daisy
Blue-eyed african daisy is a summer annual shrub found in Africa. It has attractive large white flowers with an interesting mauve center and bright yellow ring. The pale green leaves have short white hairs that make them appear grey. Blue-eyed african daisy can be grown in containers and as ornamentals in a garden.
Bird's-eye Gilia
Bird's-eye Gilia
Bird's-eye Gilia (Gilia tricolor) is a flowering plant species native to the Sierra Nevada region of California. Bird's-eye Gilia is also known as bird's-eyes and the tricolor gilia. This species is a member of the phlox family.
Cape jasmine
Cape jasmine
Gardenia jasminoides is an evergreen shrub with unique, glossy evergreen leaves and stunning flowers. The sophisticated, matte white flowers are often used in bouquets. The exceptional beauty of this ornamental plant has made it a popular and highly appreciated plant amongst gardeners and horticulturalists.
Golden pothos
Golden pothos
The golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular houseplant that is commonly seen in Australia, Asia, and the West Indies. It goes by many nicknames, including "devil's ivy", because it is so hard to kill and can even grow in low light conditions. Golden pothos has poisonous sap, so it should be kept away from pets and children.
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Related Plants
Orange crown cactus
Orange crown cactus
Orange crown cactus
Rebutia fiebrigii
The orange crown cactus (Rebutia fiebrigii) is a flowering cactus that grows in a mound. It originates in Bolivia, where it's abundant, and grows in grasslands and slopes near the Andes mountains. When grown as a houseplant, it does best when its soil is allowed to completely dry out between waterings. It is also called the flame crown.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
9 to 11
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care guide

Care Guide for Orange crown cactus

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Questions About Orange crown cactus

Watering Watering Watering
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What should I do if I water my Orange crown cactus too much or too little?
more
How often should I water my Orange crown cactus?
more
What should I consider when watering my Orange crown cactus?
more
How to water Orange crown cactus?
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Key Facts About Orange crown cactus

Attributes of Orange crown cactus

Lifespan
Perennial
Planting Time
Late spring, Summer, Early fall
Bloom Time
Spring, Mid summer, Late summer
Plant Height
10 cm
Spread
15 cm
Flower Color
Orange
Yellow
Pink
Red
Leaf type
Semi-evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃
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Scientific Classification of Orange crown cactus

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Orange crown cactus

Common issues for Orange crown cactus based on 10 million real cases
Stem rot
Stem rot Stem rot Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do. Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible. Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots. Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized. Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium. Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water. For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
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Scars
Scars Scars Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Learn More About the Scars more
Low light
Low light Low light Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Learn More About the Low light more
Mealybugs
Mealybugs Mealybugs Mealybugs
Mealybugs look like powdery white bumps about 1 to 2 mm across. They suck at the plant's sap.
Solutions: Mealybugs are not difficult to control once they are seen. If the gardener is playing close attention they can be dealt with before becoming established. Dip a cotton swab in alcohol and use it to apply alcohol to individual mealybugs. Avoid getting too much alcohol on plants as it will damage them. Rub off mealybugs using a washcloth or your fingers. Use a hose to spray these pests off of your plants. Close examination of the plant on a regular basis is the best weapon against infestation. For severe cases: - Spray entire plant with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Avoid spraying on sunny days and make sure to make contact with the mealybugs. Introduce or promote beneficial insects to the garden that eat mealybugs. Some beneficial insects include parasitic wasps, lady beetles, lacewings, and minute pirate bugs, but the most effective predator is the mealybug destroyer. For a chemical solution, spray a product that contains dinotefuran. Remove and discard heavily-infected plants.
Learn More About the Mealybugs more
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Stem rot
plant poor
Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Overview
Stem rot is a serious disease and can affect many different types of plants. it can be particularly prevalent when the temperature of the soil is over 16 ℃ and there's a lot of moisture in the soil. This could be from unusually heavy rainfalls or too much irrigation. Once stem rot sets in, it's very difficult to get rid of the disease and most affected plants will have to be discarded. This is especially the case for vegetables, herbs, and other herbaceous plants that have soft stems. This is why it's important to ensure that the soil used for growing these plants is well-drained and that overwatering is avoided. Using good cultural practices also help in curbing these types of fungal diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Plants that have been affected by stem rot will first display a yellowing of the lower leaves. This is followed by obvious wilting and stunted growth.
If the stem of the affected plant is examined closely, there will be some dark discolorations starting near the base and moving upward. If the roots of affected plants are examined, they will appear dark and mushy instead of white and healthy-looking. Eventually, the entire plant will wilt and die.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Stem rot is caused by a variety of soil-borne fungus pathogens. The type of fungus depends on the species of plant that is affected. Two fungi responsible for stem rot are Rhizoctonia and Fusarium. These fungal pathogens live in soil and migrate to the plant when conditions are optimum. This includes warm, humid weather and excessive soil moisture. Commonly, vegetable seedlings are affected by these fungi.
Sclerotinia sclerotiorum is another fungus that causes stem rot in plants. This fungus has a host range of over 350 different species of plants. Plants most susceptible to this fungus include many vegetable varieties such as cucumbers, beans, cilantro, carrots, cabbage, melons, lettuce, peas, onions, tomatoes, pumpkins, and squash. This fungus can produce different symptoms in different species. In some cases, the fungus causes irregular spots on stems and other plant material that appear water-soaked. On other plant species, the fungus appears as dry lesions that grow and girdle the stem of the plant.
The third type of fungus that causes stem rot is Phytophthora capsici. Plants that belong to the cucumber family are most susceptible to this fungal infection. This fungus manifests as water-soaked lesions on the stems that then turn brown and girdle the stem.
All of these fungal pathogens are transmitted to the plant by water splashing from the soil up onto the plant. That's because the fungal spores live in the soil where they wait for the right conditions to infect the plants.
Solutions
Solutions
If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do.
  1. Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible.
  2. Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots.
  3. Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized.
  4. Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium.
  5. Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water.
For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
Prevention
Prevention
For outdoor gardens:
  1. Raking the garden thoroughly in the springtime will help to cut down on pathogens that may be living in the soil.
  2. Using a copper fungicide on plants in the springtime will cut down on fungal growth and prevent the spread of infection.
  3. Placing a heavy layer of mulch on top of the soil will also prevent pathogens from splashing up onto the stems of plants.
  4. Place plants at the recommended spacing to encourage better air flow between them.
  5. Water plants at the base instead of overhead to prevent excessive moisture on foliage.
For indoor plants:
  1. Avoid overwatering houseplants and ensure the roots do not sit in water.
  2. Make sure that indoor plants receive adequate air circulation and light.
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Scars
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Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Low light
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Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
  1. Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
  2. There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
  3. All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
Solutions
Solutions
Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed.
  • Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn.
  • Introduce appropriate artificial lighting.
  • Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Prevention
Prevention
To avoid etiolation, provide an adequate amount of light from the beginning.
  1. Choose a location that matches each plant's ideal light needs. Many indoor plants do best in or near a south-facing window, which will provide the longest hours of sunlight. Flowering plants and those with colored leaves typically need more light than purely-green plants, as photosynthesis occurs in the green portions of leaves.
  2. Select plants with light needs that match a location's conditions. Some cultivars and varieties require less light than others.
  3. Use a grow light. Darker locations may require artificial illumination. A grow light may also become more necessary during winter, when sunlit hours are at their shortest.
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Mealybugs
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Mealybugs
Mealybugs look like powdery white bumps about 1 to 2 mm across. They suck at the plant's sap.
Overview
Overview
Mealybugs are sap-sucking insects of the Pseudococcidae family. They produce a white waxy secretion that makes them look like a dusting of flour. They thrive in warm moist conditions and so are often found on houseplants or in greenhouses, where they tend to hide in crevices such as leaf nodules and at the base of stems. Once in position they don't move and instead focus on sucking sap from the host plant.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
These creatures are quite easy to identify but because they hide in crevices, the gardener will need to be looking for them.
Small white woolly-looking dots will be seen in leaf axis and beneath leaves. Initially it may appear as though the plant has gathered patches of a light flour-like dust or bits of cotton fluff.
Initial infestations tend to be quite minor but left unaddressed, these creatures breed rapidly and can threaten the health of the plant. Severely infested plants will exhibit yellowing leaves that lack normal texture and become soft.
Solutions
Solutions
Mealybugs are not difficult to control once they are seen. If the gardener is playing close attention they can be dealt with before becoming established.
  • Dip a cotton swab in alcohol and use it to apply alcohol to individual mealybugs. Avoid getting too much alcohol on plants as it will damage them.
  • Rub off mealybugs using a washcloth or your fingers.
  • Use a hose to spray these pests off of your plants.
  • Close examination of the plant on a regular basis is the best weapon against infestation.
For severe cases: - Spray entire plant with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Avoid spraying on sunny days and make sure to make contact with the mealybugs.
  • Introduce or promote beneficial insects to the garden that eat mealybugs. Some beneficial insects include parasitic wasps, lady beetles, lacewings, and minute pirate bugs, but the most effective predator is the mealybug destroyer.
  • For a chemical solution, spray a product that contains dinotefuran.
  • Remove and discard heavily-infected plants.
Prevention
Prevention
Recommended steps for prevention, from most to least common, are as follows:
  1. Examine plants carefully before purchasing. Mealybugs are most commonly brought in on contaminated plants.
  2. Avoid overfeeding plants with nitrogen, as it makes them too tender and easy for the mealybugs to insert their sucking mouth parts into.
  3. Regularly check plants, pots, and tools for them. They are very easy to spot once the gardener knows what to look for and where to look.
  4. Keep plants in good health by properly fertilizing and irrigating.
  5. Avoid using insecticides that can kill beneficial insects. Neem tree oil and vegetable soaps are highly effective.
  6. Regular spraying or wiping with an insecticidal soap is a good deterrent and affords the gardener an opportunity to examine for any infestations.
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distribution

Distribution of Orange crown cactus

Habitat of Orange crown cactus

Shrublands, grasslands, rocky slopes, cliffs near rivers, riverbeds
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Orange crown cactus

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Orange Crown Cactus Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Plants Related to Orange crown cactus

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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Orange crown cactus is a species of the cacti family that thrives best under an abundance of sun full day. Grown in its native habitats, it's exposed to ample of sunlight that aids in the plant's solid growth. Too little light can lead to elongated, pale growth while too much can scorch and damage the plant.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Orange crown cactus is a beloved choice for indoor gardening, and they require strong light to thrive. However, when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting, they may develop symptoms of light deficiency.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Orange crown cactus may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Orange crown cactus enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Orange crown cactus require strong light to thrive, and some are remarkably resilient to sun exposure, rarely suffering from sunburn.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Orange crown cactus is a plant native to regions where the temperature fluctuates between 68 to 100.4 °F (20 to 38 ℃). It prefers this warm range. Adjusting its surrounding temperatures to mimic this range, especially during change of seasons, would be beneficial to its health.
Regional wintering strategies
Orange crown cactus is a heat-loving plant that gradually stops growing and enters a dormant state during the winter. When the outdoor temperature drops below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it should be moved indoors for cultivation. Choose a location near a south-facing window to provide as much sunlight as possible. If there is insufficient natural light, supplemental lighting can be used. When the temperature falls below {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}, the plant's growth slows down, and watering should be reduced or stopped to prevent root rot. For Orange crown cactus grown outdoors, watering should be completely halted during low temperatures. If feasible, you can set up a temporary greenhouse for insulation or use materials such as plastic film or fabric to wrap the plant during cold temperatures.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in %s
Orange crown cactus thrives in high temperatures and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It grows best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the plant may become weak, wilt, and be prone to root rot. In cases of mild frost damage, there may not be any initial symptoms, but after a week, the plant will gradually wither.
Solutions
Trim off the frostbitten areas, paying attention to whether the roots have rotted. If the roots have rotted, they need to be cut off, and the plant can be propagated through cuttings. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment and place the plant near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. If there is insufficient light, you can use supplemental lighting.
Symptoms of High Temperature in %s
During summer, Orange crown cactus should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant's growth will cease, it will experience water loss, wilting, and becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Remove the sunburned and rotten parts. Shield the plant from afternoon sunlight until it recovers and starts growing again. For plants with root rot, stop watering until new roots begin to emerge.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Orange Crown Cactus?
The best time to transplant orange crown cactus is during the S1-S2 season due to its dormant nature. Choose a spot with ample light and well-drained soil for optimal growth. Remember, it's vital to handle the roots carefully while transplanting to prevent damage.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Orange Crown Cactus?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Orange Crown Cactus?
The best season for relocating your orange crown cactus is between spring and early summer (S1-S2). This interval provides optimal growth conditions, ensuring successful establishment of your orange crown cactus. Transplanting in this season gives orange crown cactus plenty of time to acclimatize before winter, facilitating robust growth. Remember, a well-timed transplant promises a healthier, more resilient orange crown cactus. Plan it appropriately for an effortless replanting activity!
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Orange Crown Cactus Plants?
When getting ready to transplant your orange crown cactus, make sure you give them sufficient room to grow. An ideal spacing could be 1-2 feet (0.3-0.6 meters) apart. This will ensure each plant gets enough resources to thrive.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Orange Crown Cactus Transplanting?
Preparing the soil for your orange crown cactus is key. This type of cactus loves a sandy, well-draining soil and a base fertilizer that's low in organic matter. You could also mix in some perlite or grit for extra drainage.
Where Should You Relocate Your Orange Crown Cactus?
Location is important for your orange crown cactus. Find a spot where it can receive plenty of indirect sunlight and some shade in the hottest part of the day. Too much direct sunlight might burn its skin.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Orange Crown Cactus?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while handling the cactus and potentially sharp tools.
Trowel
To help with digging the hole and removing orange crown cactus from its current location without hurting its roots.
Planting Pot (Optional)
If the cactus was originally in a pot, you may need another one to transplant it. Choose one with appropriate drainage.
Watering Can
To water orange crown cactus after transplanting. Make sure it has a gentle sprinkle to avoid overwatering.
Gardening Pruning Shears
Used to prune any dead or dying parts of orange crown cactus before transplantation.
How Do You Remove Orange Crown Cactus from the Soil?
From Ground: Water the soil around orange crown cactus to make it softer and easier to dig out. Use a trowel to get under the roots and gently lift the plant and remove it from the ground.
From Pot: If orange crown cactus is in a pot, water the soil and overturn the pot, tapping gently on the base. The cactus, with its soil, should slide out. Be careful not to damage the roots.
From Seedling Tray: In this scenario, orange crown cactus will be small and easy to remove. Use a spoon or similar utensil, slip the utensil under the soil and roots and gently lift orange crown cactus from the tray.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Orange Crown Cactus
Preparation
Remove any dead or dying parts from orange crown cactus with pruning shears. This will help orange crown cactus to better adapt to its new environment.
Digging the Hole
The hole should be wide and deep enough to fully accommodate the roots of the plant. Make sure it's not too deep, the base of orange crown cactus should be level with the ground.
Plant Placement
Place the cactus in the hole, ensuring that the roots are spread and not cramped.
Soil Back-fill
Fill up the hole with soil, patting it lightly around the base of the orange crown cactus to ensure the plant is secure.
Watering
Water orange crown cactus lightly immediately after transplanting.
How Do You Care For Orange Crown Cactus After Transplanting?
Pruning
Check orange crown cactus regularly for dead or dying parts and prune them. It helps in maintaining the health and aesthetics of the plant.
Watering
While orange crown cactus prefers a dry environment, it still requires some watering. Be careful not to overwater as this can lead to root rot.
Monitoring
Monitor orange crown cactus daily to check its health and to see if it is adapting well to its new location. If any sudden changes in color or texture are noticed, consult an experienced gardener or a plant nursery.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Orange Crown Cactus Transplantation.
When is the best time to transplant orange crown cactus?
To ensure successful transplantation, relocate orange crown cactus between the first and second growing season (S1-S2).
What is the ideal spacing between each orange crown cactus when transplanting?
Giving each orange crown cactus a space of 1-2 feet (30-60 cm) will allow it to grow healthily without competition.
Why is my transplanted orange crown cactus wilting?
Wilting could signal overwatering, temperature stress, or inadequate sunlight. Review your plant's conditions and adjust as necessary.
Can I transplant orange crown cactus to a larger pot?
Absolutely, but ensure the new pot has proper drainage to prevent water-logging. Also, adapt watering to prevent overwatering.
How deep should I plant orange crown cactus during transplantation?
Plant orange crown cactus as deep as the root length for ideal growth. Typically, this would be 3-4 inches (7-10 cm).
The leaves of my orange crown cactus are turning yellow after transplanting. Why?
Yellowing leaves might be due to insufficient light, overwatering, or nutrient deficiency. Adjust the environment or your plant care routine accordingly.
Do I need to water orange crown cactus immediately after transplanting?
Yes, watering after transplanting helps settle the soil around the roots and alleviates transplant shock for orange crown cactus.
How long does orange crown cactus need to adjust to a new pot after transplanting?
Orange crown cactus typically needs 1-2 weeks to adjust to a new pot or space. During this time, avoid moving or disturbing the plant.
What type of soil should I use while transplanting orange crown cactus?
A well-draining soil, rich in organic matter is ideal for orange crown cactus. Consider a mix of standard potting soil and perlite or sand.
Can I prune orange crown cactus while transplanting?
Postponing pruning until after orange crown cactus has adjusted to its new environment is a safer plan. This allows for the plant's full energy to be dedicated to root establishment.
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These cookies are set because of our use of Google Analytics. They are used to collect information about your use of our application/website. The cookies collect specific information, such as your IP address, data related to your device and other information about your use of the application/website. Please note that the data processing is essentially carried out by Google LLC and Google may use your data collected by the cookies for own purposes, e.g. profiling and will combine it with other data such as your Google Account. For more information about how Google processes your data and Google’s approach to privacy as well as implemented safeguards for your data, please see here.
Lifespan
1 Year

Cookie Name
_pta
Source
PictureThis Analytics
Purpose
We use these cookies to collect information about how you use our site, monitor site performance, and improve our site performance, our services, and your experience.
Lifespan
1 Year
Marketing Cookies
Marketing cookies are used by advertising companies to serve ads that are relevant to your interests.
Cookie Name Source Purpose Lifespan
_fbp Facebook Pixel A conversion pixel tracking that we use for retargeting campaigns. Learn more here. 1 Year
_adj Adjust This cookie provides mobile analytics and attribution services that enable us to measure and analyze the effectiveness of marketing campaigns, certain events and actions within the Application. Learn more here. 1 Year
Cookie Name
_fbp
Source
Facebook Pixel
Purpose
A conversion pixel tracking that we use for retargeting campaigns. Learn more here.
Lifespan
1 Year

Cookie Name
_adj
Source
Adjust
Purpose
This cookie provides mobile analytics and attribution services that enable us to measure and analyze the effectiveness of marketing campaigns, certain events and actions within the Application. Learn more here.
Lifespan
1 Year
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