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Chayote
Chayote
Chayote
Chayote
Chayote
Chayote
Chayote
Sechium edule
Also known as : Choke, Christophine, Pepineca, Alligator pear, Choko
Chayote is an edible squash in the gourd family that has long been cultivated for food in Latin America. It can be eaten raw or cooked, and it has a slightly sweet taste that has been compared to that of cucumber.
Planting Time
Planting Time
Mid spring, Late spring
care guide

Care Guide for Chayote

Soil Care
Soil Care
Sand, Loam, Neutral, Slightly alkaline
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
Ideal Lighting
Ideal Lighting
Full sun, Partial sun
Details on Sunlight Requirements Ideal Lighting
Ideal Temperature
Ideal Temperature
9 to 12
Details on Temperature Ideal Temperature
Planting Time
Planting Time
Mid spring, Late spring
Details on Planting Time Planting Time
Harvest Time
Harvest Time
Fall
Details on Harvest Time Harvest Time
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Chayote
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
9 to 12
Planting Time
Planting Time
Mid spring, Late spring
question

Questions About Chayote

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Chayote?
Not only does the Chayote have certain preferences regarding how much water it receives, but it also cares deeply about how you provide that water. In fact, if you don't use the proper watering technique, you risk harming your tomatoes. The best way to water Chayote is to apply the water directly to the soil in a slow and gentle manner. You should not pour all of the water into the soil at once, and you should not do overhead watering for your Chayote. Although you should water slowly, you should also water deeply to ensure that all of the soil in which your Chayote grows is sufficiently moist.
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What should I do if I water my Chayote too much or too little?
If you find that you have overwatered your Chayote and you are concerned about the associated risk of disease, you should intervene immediately. Often the best approach for an overwatered Chayote is to uproot it from its current growing location. Once the plant is out of the ground, you can allow its roots to dry a bit before planting it in a new growing location. Ensure that the new growing location has soil with good drainage. If you grow in pots, you may also want to move your plant to a pot with more or larger drainage holes. In the case of underwatering, all you will need to do is increase the frequency with which you supply water to your plant.
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How often should I water my Chayote?
Overall, Chayote requires a significant amount of water throughout the growing season. To meet that high water need, you'll need to water early and often throughout the spring and summer. During the earlier parts of the growing season, you should water your Chayote about once or twice per week. As the season progresses, you should increase your watering frequency. You may need to water it twice per day or more during summer, depending on the weather. After your Chayote have gone through their major seasonal growth phases, you can reduce the frequency of your watering to about once per week until the end of the growing season.
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How much water does my Chayote need?
Since Chayote are incredibly popular, with many professional and amateur gardeners growing them successfully, we have a pretty clear idea of how to care for these plants. That understanding includes specific knowledge about the precise volume of water an average Chayote should receive. Generally, Chayote will require about 1 - 1.5 inches of water per week. That volume should be dispersed evenly through your weekly watering. As the weather gets warmer, you may need to supply more water, but in most cases, two inches per week is a good baseline amount.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Chayote enough?
Underwatering and overwatering can both occur as problems for your Chayote, and both these problems can manifest with similar symptoms. For example, foliage discoloration and wilting can both result from either overwatering or underwatering. When your Chayote is underwatered, its leaves will be curling and drooping at the beginning. You will see a bunch of leaves turn less vigorous. Underwatering is also likely to cause stunted growth and poor overall development as both the flowers and this plant require a high amount of water. Overwatering is more likely to lead to disease, including rot. Overwatering may also lead to unpleasant smells rising from your plant's soil. The symptoms of underwatering will show up quicker than overwatering. Overwatering can also be evident in soil conditions. Mainly, if you notice a lot of standing water or waterlogged soils, overwatering is likely to occur.
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How should I water my Chayote through the seasons?
As alluded to above, your Chayote's water needs will repeatedly change throughout the seasons. During most of spring and summer, you should water your Chayote about once every week. As the heat of summer arrives, you should plan to increase your watering frequency to once or twice per day. In the late summer and fall, towards the end of the harvest period, you can reduce your watering frequency to about once per week. After harvest has ended, you can cease watering as your Chayote has reached the end of its life cycle and will require no further soil moisture.
The maintenance schedule of Chayote will require you to alter the amount of water you provide depending on the plant's current growth stage. Early on, especially if you grow your Chayote from seeds, you'll need to provide water often enough to maintain consistent soil moisture, which encourages root development. When the plant becomes old enough to produce flowers, it will likely need even more water. During the fruit development growth stage, your Chayote will likely need the most water out of any growth period, at times requiring water more than twice per day. Following that phase, the water needs of Chayote will decline significantly.
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What's the difference between watering Chayote indoors and outdoors?
Whether you grow Chayote indoors or outdoors can also play a role in how you water them. Chayote that grows outdoors may receive water from natural rainfall, which will reduce the amount of supplemental water you should supply. However, it is incredibly rare for rainfall to adequately replace your watering entirely. Plants that grow indoors, along with any Chayote that grows in a container, will need to be watered more frequently than those that grow in the ground outdoors. If you choose this route, please make sure that the plant gets enough water by checking the soil moisture within your pot often to keep your Chayote healthy.
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Key Facts About Chayote

Attributes of Chayote

Lifespan
Perennial, Annual
Plant Type
Herb, Vine
Planting Time
Mid spring, Late spring
Bloom Time
Late summer, Early fall, Mid fall
Harvest Time
Fall
Plant Height
12 m
Spread
50 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Color
White
Green
Yellow
Fruit Color
Green
White
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃

Scientific Classification of Chayote

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Chayote

Common issues for Chayote based on 10 million real cases
Fruit deformity
Fruit deformity Fruit deformity
Fruit deformity
Fruit deformities can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: You will not be able to solve this problem with fruit that is already distorted, but there are a few ways to cope with fruit deformity: Deformed areas may be cut out of edible fruit. If distortion is extreme, remove affected specimens from the plant so that other fruit have more room to grow, and so these less desirable fruit don't waste valuable nutrients.
Fruit Spot
Fruit Spot Fruit Spot
Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Solutions: Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot. Improve air circulation and drainage Fertilize as needed Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.
Caterpillars
Caterpillars Caterpillars
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Fruit deformity
plant poor
Fruit deformity
Fruit deformities can have a variety of causes.
Overview
Overview
Fruit deformity may be caused by several different factors. Distorted growth of fruit can be quite pronounced and very different from the normal fruit that a grower would expect from the relevant plant. Common causes are inadequate or intermittent watering, poor pollination, sudden changes in temperature, insect damage while fruit is forming, or insufficient nutrients. All fruits are susceptible to this condition if their growing conditions are not met or if they are only partially pollinated.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Symptoms of fruit deformity vary from fruit to fruit and also by cause, but here are some of the more common ones.
  • Cat facing. Various parts of the fruit grow more quickly than others, resulting in a scarred or crinkled appearance. This is common in grapes, pears, peaches, and tomatoes.
  • Nubby tips. The tips of the fruit are distorted or forked. Common in strawberries.
  • Defect ridging. Scar-like growth on the exterior of the plant that extends inwards to the fruit. Common on avocados.
  • Scabs. Hard brown to black leathery patches that distort fruit. Common with apples.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Several factors may contribute to fruit deformity:
  • Poor pollination: Insects pollinate fruit by spreading pollen throughout the flower's ovules (ovaries). If they miss some of these ovules, they won't fully develop. This can lead to misshapen fruit that is often pointy and wrinkled on the blossom end.
  • Watering changes: If a plant has been growing in drought conditions and then suddenly gets more water, the fruit may grow too quickly and split from the stress. Soft fruits can also split if rain falls on the fruit shortly before harvest, as the cuticle absorbs the water and bursts.
  • Temperature extremes: Excessive heat or cold can harm flowers before they have a chance to be fully fertilized, which may result in half-formed fruits. Early season frosts are a primary cause.
  • Lack of nutrients: Many nutrient deficiencies cause stunted fruit. For example, too little boron or calcium will lead to misshapen apples and strawberries.
  • Insect damage: Some insects, like tarnished plant bugs (lygus bugs), feed on young fruits and can prevent them from forming correctly.
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Fruit Spot
plant poor
Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Overview
Overview
If there are brown or black spots on the unripened fruits of plants, there is a good chance that fruit Spot could be to blame. This is an informal term used to describe several types of diseases that all cause these same symptoms: unattractive spots on fruits and vegetables.
There are a few different culprits behind fruit Spot, including bacterial spot, bacterial speck, and other related diseases (like early blight). Here are some symptoms and potential solutions to consider.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The symptoms of fruit Spot vary depending on which type of plant is affected as well as by which specific pathogen is to blame. Just about every type of plant can be affected by fruit Spot, including tomatoes, pears, plums, onions, strawberries, celery, peaches, and more.
Here are some examples of potential symptoms:
Small Fruit Spot
Small spots are most commonly associated with bacterial speck.
  • Spots may appear on fruits as well as leaves and other aboveground areas of the plant
  • Small black specks appear on infected fruits (spots are less than 1/16” in diameter)
  • Spots are raised with distinct margins, developing into sunken pits as the fruit matures
  • Fruit tissue near the spot stays green longer than the rest of the fruit
  • Spots are dark brown to black in color, with nearby spots often growing together
Large Fruit Spot
Large spots are often seen on plants suffering from bacterial spot, early blight, and related diseases.
  • Spots are large, sometimes larger than 1.3 cm
  • Some spots may look like targets with a brown to greyish coloration
  • Older spots are black and raised with lobed borders
  • Spots are superficial only, not penetrating into the seed cavity
  • Spots may turn into sunken pits, turning into craters as they get older
  • The skin of the fruit can be cracked and produce a water-soaked border
  • Some spots may ooze a gelatinous substance
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are a few culprits behind the fruit Spot. These depend on the pathogen as well as the type of plant. Bacterial speck and bacterial spot are both common diseases that can affect tomatoes, ground cherries, and other plants.
Bacterial speck is caused by Pseudomonas syringae. First discovered in the United States in 1933, it is most common in tomatoes and nearby weeds but can affect other kinds of plants and their fruits, too. It is more prevalent in low temperatures (less than 24 ℃) and high moisture.
Bacterial spot is caused by Xanthomonas campestris pv. Vesicatoria. First discovered in Texas in 1912, this disease is more common in warm weather and conditions of high moisture.
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Caterpillars
plant poor
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
  1. Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
  2. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
  1. Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
  2. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
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Leaf beetles
plant poor
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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distribution

Distribution of Chayote

Habitat of Chayote

Moist, steep hillsides
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Chayote

Chayote is native to Central America, with Mexico being its region of origin. Its cultivation has spread across major regions, including parts of Asia, Europe, Oceania, and South America. While chayote is widely farmed, it has also established itself in areas beyond its native range. In certain regions such as the Pacific Islands, the Caribbean, and parts of South America, chayote is sometimes thought to be invasive and may have an impact on local ecosystems. Through cultivation, chayote maintains a global presence, adapting to various climates and agricultural practices.
distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
habit
care_scenes

More Info on Chayote Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
Chayote cherishes plentiful sun exposure and can endure modest shade. Originating from a habitat of generous sunlight, chayote's healthiest growth is attained when basking in solar abundance. However, excessive exposure can induce stress and damage, while too little may retard growth.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
0 - 43 ℃
Chayote is adapted to thrive in regions with tropical climates. Its ideal temperature range sets at 68 to 100.4 °F (20 to 38 ℃). Coolers months may have to involve indoor adjustments to maintain this conducive environment.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
3-4 feet
The best time to transplant chayote lies within late spring to early summer (S3-S5). This period ensures optimal growth with increased light and warmth. Choose a well-lit location and ensure that chayote gets sufficient water throughout. Always remember, a gentle approach to the transplant process preserves the health of this vibrant vine.
Transplant Techniques
Feng shui direction
Southwest
The chayote demonstrates a harmonious bond with the Southwest facing direction, often associated with earthy and maternal energies. Its vine growth pattern embodies adaptability, signifying a balance in the flow of chi. However, this compatibility may vary as Feng Shui is subjective and depends heavily on the overall home arrangement.
Fengshui Details
other_plant

Plants Related to Chayote

Sea fig
Sea fig
Sea fig is an edible, ornamental succulent. The plant's leaves can be eaten raw in salads or cooked. However, its fruit is very sour if it is not ripe. In warm temperate coastal areas, it has become an invasive weed.
Wingstem
Wingstem
Wingstem (Verbesina alternifolia) is a flowering plant native to wooded areas of central and eastern North America. Wingstem is also referred to as yellow ironweed. This plant attracts moths and butterflies by serving as their larval host.
Portia Tree
Portia Tree
Portia Tree (Thespesia populnea) is a tropical, evergreen tree valued for its rich, dark wood. Commonly found growing in coastal areas. Thrives in full sun with moist but well-drained soil. It is drought, wind and salt-tolerant. Edible leaves and fruit can be eaten fresh or cooked. The bark, roots, leaves, flowers and fruit have been used medicinally.
Chamber bitter
Chamber bitter
Chamber bitter is blooms in summer. Its striking branched leaf pattern makes it an attractive ornamental, but it is a weedy plant that takes careful management to stop its seeds from spreading to unwanted areas. It is considered invasive in the southern United States.
New Zealand laurel
New Zealand laurel
The bitter pulp of the new Zealand laurel tree is edible, but use caution, as the fresh kernels are toxic. The Moriori people have historically been known to use a detailed processing method to eat the fruit, but the slightest error could have grave implications.
Artillery plant
Artillery plant
The artillery plant is often utilized as a groundcover or an ornamental in many landscapes. It's commonly named the "artillery plant" because the males generally produce pollen in an explosive way. It grows best in a humid environment in partial shade or indirect sunlight. It's a particularly popular plant in indoor rock gardens.
Poison ivy
Poison ivy
In pop culture, poison ivy is a symbol of an obnoxious weed because, despite its unthreatening looks, it gives a highly unpleasant contact rash to the unfortunate person who touches it. Still, it is commonly eaten by many animals, and the seeds are a favorite with birds. The leaves turn bright red in fall. Its sister species, Western poison ivy (Toxicodendron rydbergii), is not considered to be invasive in the United States, but is noxious in Australia and New Zealand.
Pokeweed
Pokeweed
Although its berries look juicy and tempting, the fruits and the root of pokeweed are toxic and should not be eaten. Pokeweed is considered a pest species by farmers but is nevertheless often grown as an ornamental plant. Its berries can be made into pokeberry ink as well.
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About
Care Guide
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Related Plants
Chayote
Chayote
Chayote
Chayote
Chayote
Chayote
Chayote
Sechium edule
Also known as: Choke, Christophine, Pepineca, Alligator pear, Choko
Chayote is an edible squash in the gourd family that has long been cultivated for food in Latin America. It can be eaten raw or cooked, and it has a slightly sweet taste that has been compared to that of cucumber.
Planting Time
Planting Time
Mid spring, Late spring
care guide

Care Guide for Chayote

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Questions About Chayote

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Chayote?
more
What should I do if I water my Chayote too much or too little?
more
How often should I water my Chayote?
more
How much water does my Chayote need?
more
How can I tell if i'm watering my Chayote enough?
more
How should I water my Chayote through the seasons?
more
What's the difference between watering Chayote indoors and outdoors?
more
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Get tips and tricks for your plants.
Keep your plants happy and healthy with our guide to watering, lighting, feeding and more.
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close
plant_info

Key Facts About Chayote

Attributes of Chayote

Lifespan
Perennial, Annual
Plant Type
Herb, Vine
Planting Time
Mid spring, Late spring
Bloom Time
Late summer, Early fall, Mid fall
Harvest Time
Fall
Plant Height
12 m
Spread
50 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Color
White
Green
Yellow
Fruit Color
Green
White
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃
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Scientific Classification of Chayote

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Chayote

Common issues for Chayote based on 10 million real cases
Fruit deformity
Fruit deformity Fruit deformity Fruit deformity
Fruit deformities can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: You will not be able to solve this problem with fruit that is already distorted, but there are a few ways to cope with fruit deformity: Deformed areas may be cut out of edible fruit. If distortion is extreme, remove affected specimens from the plant so that other fruit have more room to grow, and so these less desirable fruit don't waste valuable nutrients.
Learn More About the Fruit deformity more
Fruit Spot
Fruit Spot Fruit Spot Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Solutions: Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot. Improve air circulation and drainage Fertilize as needed Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.
Learn More About the Fruit Spot more
Caterpillars
Caterpillars Caterpillars Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Fruit deformity
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Fruit deformity
Fruit deformities can have a variety of causes.
Overview
Overview
Fruit deformity may be caused by several different factors. Distorted growth of fruit can be quite pronounced and very different from the normal fruit that a grower would expect from the relevant plant. Common causes are inadequate or intermittent watering, poor pollination, sudden changes in temperature, insect damage while fruit is forming, or insufficient nutrients. All fruits are susceptible to this condition if their growing conditions are not met or if they are only partially pollinated.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Symptoms of fruit deformity vary from fruit to fruit and also by cause, but here are some of the more common ones.
  • Cat facing. Various parts of the fruit grow more quickly than others, resulting in a scarred or crinkled appearance. This is common in grapes, pears, peaches, and tomatoes.
  • Nubby tips. The tips of the fruit are distorted or forked. Common in strawberries.
  • Defect ridging. Scar-like growth on the exterior of the plant that extends inwards to the fruit. Common on avocados.
  • Scabs. Hard brown to black leathery patches that distort fruit. Common with apples.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Several factors may contribute to fruit deformity:
  • Poor pollination: Insects pollinate fruit by spreading pollen throughout the flower's ovules (ovaries). If they miss some of these ovules, they won't fully develop. This can lead to misshapen fruit that is often pointy and wrinkled on the blossom end.
  • Watering changes: If a plant has been growing in drought conditions and then suddenly gets more water, the fruit may grow too quickly and split from the stress. Soft fruits can also split if rain falls on the fruit shortly before harvest, as the cuticle absorbs the water and bursts.
  • Temperature extremes: Excessive heat or cold can harm flowers before they have a chance to be fully fertilized, which may result in half-formed fruits. Early season frosts are a primary cause.
  • Lack of nutrients: Many nutrient deficiencies cause stunted fruit. For example, too little boron or calcium will lead to misshapen apples and strawberries.
  • Insect damage: Some insects, like tarnished plant bugs (lygus bugs), feed on young fruits and can prevent them from forming correctly.
Solutions
Solutions
You will not be able to solve this problem with fruit that is already distorted, but there are a few ways to cope with fruit deformity:
  1. Deformed areas may be cut out of edible fruit.
  2. If distortion is extreme, remove affected specimens from the plant so that other fruit have more room to grow, and so these less desirable fruit don't waste valuable nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
There are many steps that can be taken to prevent fruit deformity.
  • Create pollinator-friendly habitat space: Proper pollination leads to beautiful fruits and vegetables. Encourage bees and other insects by planting pollinator-friendly flowers nearby. If necessary, a gardener can pollinate flowers by hand using a small paintbrush to transfer pollen from other flowers.
  • Protect plants from early frost: When frost is in the forecast, bring flowering plants indoors or protect them with a frost cloth or a row cover.
  • Check for insect damage: As the plant's fruits first form, inspect them regularly for signs of tarnished plant bugs and other pests. Sticky traps may prevent the insects from reaching the plants, and surrounding weeds that create habitat space for pests should be removed. Don't spray insecticide if the plant still has flowers, as this might harm visiting pollinators.
  • Prevent overwatering: Squash and melons are susceptible to splitting if they get too much water right before they ripen. Ensure that fruiting plants get adequate amounts of water throughout the full growing season to prevent stress in the last few weeks.
  • Add fertilizer: Stave off nutrient deficiencies with a dose of fertilizer that contains boron at the time of planting. A slow-release fertilizer may be a good choice to provide a steady supply of nutrients.
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Fruit Spot
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Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Overview
Overview
If there are brown or black spots on the unripened fruits of plants, there is a good chance that fruit Spot could be to blame. This is an informal term used to describe several types of diseases that all cause these same symptoms: unattractive spots on fruits and vegetables.
There are a few different culprits behind fruit Spot, including bacterial spot, bacterial speck, and other related diseases (like early blight). Here are some symptoms and potential solutions to consider.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The symptoms of fruit Spot vary depending on which type of plant is affected as well as by which specific pathogen is to blame. Just about every type of plant can be affected by fruit Spot, including tomatoes, pears, plums, onions, strawberries, celery, peaches, and more.
Here are some examples of potential symptoms:
Small Fruit Spot
Small spots are most commonly associated with bacterial speck.
  • Spots may appear on fruits as well as leaves and other aboveground areas of the plant
  • Small black specks appear on infected fruits (spots are less than 1/16” in diameter)
  • Spots are raised with distinct margins, developing into sunken pits as the fruit matures
  • Fruit tissue near the spot stays green longer than the rest of the fruit
  • Spots are dark brown to black in color, with nearby spots often growing together
Large Fruit Spot
Large spots are often seen on plants suffering from bacterial spot, early blight, and related diseases.
  • Spots are large, sometimes larger than 1.3 cm
  • Some spots may look like targets with a brown to greyish coloration
  • Older spots are black and raised with lobed borders
  • Spots are superficial only, not penetrating into the seed cavity
  • Spots may turn into sunken pits, turning into craters as they get older
  • The skin of the fruit can be cracked and produce a water-soaked border
  • Some spots may ooze a gelatinous substance
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are a few culprits behind the fruit Spot. These depend on the pathogen as well as the type of plant. Bacterial speck and bacterial spot are both common diseases that can affect tomatoes, ground cherries, and other plants.
Bacterial speck is caused by Pseudomonas syringae. First discovered in the United States in 1933, it is most common in tomatoes and nearby weeds but can affect other kinds of plants and their fruits, too. It is more prevalent in low temperatures (less than 24 ℃) and high moisture.
Bacterial spot is caused by Xanthomonas campestris pv. Vesicatoria. First discovered in Texas in 1912, this disease is more common in warm weather and conditions of high moisture.
Solutions
Solutions
  • Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot.
  • Improve air circulation and drainage
  • Fertilize as needed
  • Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.
Prevention
Prevention
There are several ways to prevent both types of fruit Spot from affecting yields and harvests:
  • Rotate crops - do not plant the same kind of plant in the same spot each year, instead switching out locations every two to three years
  • Use disease-free seeds and transplants - using a hot water treatment to sterilize seeds before planting can also be effective
  • Irrigate early in the day to give plants time to dry off before nightfall
  • Avoid working around plants when they are wet
  • Control weeds
  • Remove debris or plow it under at the end of the growing season
  • Fertilize with higher amounts of nitrogen and use less calcium
  • Plant resistant cultivars when available
  • Do not clip plants when transplanting
  • Dispose of affected plant parts immediately (do not compost)
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Caterpillars
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
  1. Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
  2. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
  1. Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
  2. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
  1. Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
  2. Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
  3. Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
  4. Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Leaf beetles
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
  1. Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
  2. Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
  3. Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
  4. Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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distribution

Distribution of Chayote

Habitat of Chayote

Moist, steep hillsides
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Chayote

Chayote is native to Central America, with Mexico being its region of origin. Its cultivation has spread across major regions, including parts of Asia, Europe, Oceania, and South America. While chayote is widely farmed, it has also established itself in areas beyond its native range. In certain regions such as the Pacific Islands, the Caribbean, and parts of South America, chayote is sometimes thought to be invasive and may have an impact on local ecosystems. Through cultivation, chayote maintains a global presence, adapting to various climates and agricultural practices.
distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Chayote Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Plants Related to Chayote

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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Chayote cherishes plentiful sun exposure and can endure modest shade. Originating from a habitat of generous sunlight, chayote's healthiest growth is attained when basking in solar abundance. However, excessive exposure can induce stress and damage, while too little may retard growth.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Chayote thrives in full sunlight and is commonly cultivated outdoors. When grown indoors with limited light, it may exhibit subtle symptoms of light deficiency that can easily go unnoticed.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Chayote may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Chayote enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Chayote thrives in full sun exposure and can tolerate intense sunlight. With their remarkable resilience, symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible, as they rarely suffer from it.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Chayote is adapted to thrive in regions with tropical climates. Its ideal temperature range sets at 68 to 100.4 °F (20 to 38 ℃). Coolers months may have to involve indoor adjustments to maintain this conducive environment.
Regional wintering strategies
Chayote prefers relatively warm temperatures, so maintaining temperatures above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} during winter cultivation is beneficial for plant growth. The minimum temperature should be kept above freezing point to prevent the plant from freezing damage. When the outdoor temperature approaches -5°C (25°F) during winter, it is advisable to bring Chayote indoors or provide protection by setting up a temporary greenhouse or using materials such as plastic film or fabric to wrap the plant.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in %s
Chayote has moderate tolerance to low temperatures and thrives best when the temperature is between {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} and {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves may darken in color. In severe cases, water-soaked necrosis, wilting, and drooping may occur, and the color of the leaves gradually turns brown.
Solutions
Trim away the frost-damaged parts. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment or set up a makeshift greenhouse for cold protection. When placing the plant indoors, choose a location near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. If there is insufficient light, you can use supplemental lighting.
Symptoms of High Temperature in %s
During summer, Chayote should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant's growth slows down, the color of its leaves becomes lighter, and it becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the afternoon sun. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Chayote?
The best time to transplant chayote lies within late spring to early summer (S3-S5). This period ensures optimal growth with increased light and warmth. Choose a well-lit location and ensure that chayote gets sufficient water throughout. Always remember, a gentle approach to the transplant process preserves the health of this vibrant vine.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Chayote?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Chayote?
The optimal season to transplant chayote is between early spring to mid-summer. This period promotes vigorous growth due to favourable weather conditions. Transplanting chayote during this time allows it to set roots before the warm season. This benefits the plant as it has ample time to get established before the peak growing season. Remember to handle the fragile roots of chayote carefully during the process. It's a joy to watch chayote thrive when planted at the right time and season. Enjoy your gardening journey with chayote!
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Chayote Plants?
Make sure to give your chayote plenty of room! Aim to space each plant about 3-4 feet (90-120 cm) apart. This is because these plants tend to spread out and need plenty of room to grow properly.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Chayote Transplanting?
Prepare your soil before planting your chayote. They thrive in fertile, well-drained soil. Use a high-quality garden soil mix as your base and add in some organic compost fertilizer to enrich the soil.
Where Should You Relocate Your Chayote?
Choose a sunny spot for your chayote! They love getting at least 5-6 hours of sunlight daily. If the area gets full sun, that's even better. This plant prefers warm and sunny conditions to grow best!
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Chayote?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the soil and plant.
Garden Shovel
To dig up the chayote plant and create a hole for it at the new location.
Garden Spade
For refining the hole and removing smaller rocks surrounding it.
Watering Can
To water the plant before, during, and after transplantation.
Garden Compost
To provide nutrients to the chayote plant in its new location.
Stakes and Garden Tie/String
To support the chayote vines as they grow and keep them off the ground.
How Do You Remove Chayote from the Soil?
From Ground: Start by giving the chayote plant a good soak to dampen the soil. Using a shovel, dig a circle around the plant, ensuring not to damage the roots while bringing out as much as the root ball as possible. Try to work the spade beneath the root ball and lift the plant carefully from the ground.
From Pot: If your chayote is in a pot, water it well before transplanting. Flip the pot gently and tap the edge on a hard surface to loosen the soil. Grip the plant by its base and give a gentle pull. If it doesn’t slide out, use a trowel to loosen the soil around the inner edge and try again.
From Seedling Tray: Water well and allow the soil to absorb the water. Gently hold the chayote seedling by its leaves (not stem) and use a small tool like a spoon or spork to loosen the soil around its roots. Lift it out with care and make sure to transfer it promptly to avoid the roots drying out.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Chayote
Preparation
Clear the area of any debris and dig a hole at the chosen location. The hole should be 2-3 times the diameter of the root ball. Add some compost into the hole to introduce nutrients.
Transplant
Place the chayote plant in the hole, making sure it is not planted deeper than it was in its original location. Back-fill the hole with the soil, tapping it gently to remove any air pockets.
Support
Place stakes around chayote and gently tie the vines with garden tie. This will help them climb and not rest on the ground.
Water
Water the chayote plant generously right after planting, but avoid creating puddles of water.
How Do You Care For Chayote After Transplanting?
Watering
Consistently keep the soil moist, without making it soggy, to help the chayote plant establish strong roots. Avoid overhead watering to minimize disease problems.
Staking
Check the stakes periodically and adjust the ties if needed to prevent them from becoming too tight as the plant grows.
Fertilizing
A month after transplanting, introduce a balanced fertilizer to promote vigorous growth, but avoid heavy nitrogen fertilizers.
Pruning
Regularly remove any yellowing leaves or overly vigorous vines to ensure energy is directed towards healthier growth.
Monitoring
Keep an eye out for pests or disease and take necessary actions based on your local extension service recommendations.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Chayote Transplantation.
When is the best time to transplant chayote?
The optimal transplanting time for chayote is typically from the third to the fifth growing season (S3-S5).
What's the recommended spacing when I transplant chayote in my garden?
When transplanting chayote, adequate room is essential. Ideally, plants should be spaced 3-4 feet (0.9-1.2 meters) apart.
Should I water chayote immediately after transplanting?
Absolutely! Watering chayote right after transplanting helps settle the soil, eliminate air gaps and helps the plant adjust to its new environment.
How much sunlight does chayote need after being transplanted?
Chayote prefers a sunny to partially shaded setting. After transplanting, ensure it gets at least 6 hours of sunshine every day.
How deep should the hole be when transplanting chayote?
The transplant hole for chayote should be deep enough to accommodate the root ball. Typically around 12 inches (30 cm) should do.
Should the soil type be considered when transplanting chayote?
Yes, chayote prefers well-drained soil. Enriching your soil with organic compost can improve its structure and nutrition providing a beneficial environment for your chayote.
What can I do if my transplanted chayote shows signs of wilting?
Wilting can be a sign of transplant shock. Ensure chayote is sufficiently watered and consider applying a root stimulator to aid recovery.
Can chayote be transplanted close to other plants?
Chayote needs ample space for growth. A spacing of about 3-4 feet (0.9-1.2 meters) between it and other plants should be observed.
How often should I water chayote after transplanting?
Water chayote regularly after transplanting, at least once a day for the first week or so. After that, water regularly based on local climate and soil conditions.
What if leaves of chayote turn yellow after transplanting?
Yellowing can indicate over or under watering, or nutrient deficiency. Try adjusting watering frequency and consider using a balanced plant fertilizer.
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