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Burro's tail play
Burro's tail
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Burro's tail
Burro's tail
Burro's tail
Burro's tail
Burro's tail
Sedum burrito
Also known as : Jelly bean
Burro's tail (Sedum burrito) is a flowering succulent species native to Honduras and southern Mexico. Burro's tail is valued as an ornamental houseplant and often grown in hanging baskets. This species is considered rare in nature as it only grows in a few small geographical regions. Burro's tail grows best in full-sunlight conditions.
Water
Water
Every 3 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
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care guide

Care Guide for Burro's tail

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Watering Care
Watering Care
Burro鈥檚 tail should be watered regularly with attention to the soil's moisture level. When the first one to three inches of topsoil is dry, it is time to water the plant again. This species may require more frequent waterings in dry weather, so checking the soil moisture is an effective way to know when to water Burro鈥檚 tail.
Details on Watering Care Watering Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilizing Care
Burro's tail should be fertilized using a commercial fertilizer specifically formulated for cacti. If this type of fertilizer is unavailable, a commercial houseplant fertilizer can also suffice. Fertilizer should be added to the soil every two months during the spring season, and less frequently during the dormant winter season.
Details on Fertilizing Care Fertilizing Care
Pruning
Pruning
Deadhead (or remove) withered flowers after flowering.
Details on Pruning Pruning
Soil Care
Soil Care
Sand, Loam, Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
Repotting
Repotting
Flower Pots
Details on Repotting Repotting
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Burro's tail
Water
Water
Every 3 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
9 to 11
Planting Time
Planting Time
All year around
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Questions About Burro's tail

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Watering Watering Watering
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Burro's tail?
The proper way to water Burro's tail requires some timing. For example, you should wait until the spring, when the new leaves are beginning to grow, before considering adding water to this plant’s pot. Once that season arrives, you can add water when the soil inside the pot has become entirely dry. When watering, you can use either tap water or distilled water. It's best not to water this plant from overhead. Instead, you should water at the base of the plant by applying the water slowly and evenly across the entire surface of the soil. This method will allow you to moisten all parts of the soil consistently without dampening the above-ground portions of the plant, which your Burro's tail will appreciate. Typically, you can continue adding water until you notice a light stream of excess water draining from the pot’s hole.
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What should I do if I water my Burro's tail too much or too little?
An overwatered Burro's tail is a far more common occurrence than one that is underwatered. Overwatering is also incredibly detrimental to your plant's health as it can cause one Burro's tail to die quite quickly. One way to avoid overwatering is to allow the soil to dry entirely before adding water, as mentioned previously. Especially when it turns into dormancy, lots of people will just water it in the wrong way. As such, we’ll focus on how to remedy the problem of overwatering. When your Burro's tail shows signs of overwatering, it is often best to remove it from its current pot. After removal, you should access the roots of this plant and remove any that show signs of rot or some other moisture-related disease. While some roots should be removed, others will return to full health after a simple cleaning. After this stage, you should repot your Burro's tail in soil that has excellent drainage capabilities to lessen the odds of future overwatering.
While unlikely, underwatering can take place too. If that occurs for you, all you need to do is supply your plant with water on a slightly more frequent basis, ensuring that you don't overcorrect the issue and end up overwatering your plant.
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How often should I water my Burro's tail?
As a succulent plant, the water needs of Burro's tail are quite low compared to most other plants because this plant hails from a region that is constantly hot and dry.
To give this plant species proper care, you should allow its soil to dry out completely between waterings.
Typically, it will take anywhere from two weeks to a month for the soil to dry entirely, at which time you can add water. Watering frequency tends to be very seasonally related. During the spring to summer period, it will be in a growing state and it may take 2-3 weeks for the soil to dry completely, you can follow this watering frequency. During the summer time, the soil may dry out faster. However, when the temperature falls below 60 degrees or rises above 85 degrees Fahrenheit, most of them will be dormant or semi-dormant, which means that the plant does not need more watering at the moment. Instead, you should reduce or even stop watering to keep the soil dry until the temperature is appropriate again for Burro's tail to grow, and then restart watering.
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How much water does my Burro's tail need?
Overall, Burro's tail does not need a high volume of water. This is mainly due to the fact that this plant must go for a while without receiving water. However, when the time to water this plant does arrive, you should be ready to give it a lot of water. While there is no set amount of water to give this plant, you should not stop watering until the soil is completely moist. The best way to ensure this is the case, provided you grow this plant in a pot, is to water it until you see water trickling through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. You can also insert a pencil or some similar object deep into the soil to test if you have watered enough. If you remove the pencil and it is moist, then you have provided enough water.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Burro's tail enough?
Generally, overwatering is a far more significant issue than underwatering is. When overwatering occurs, you should notice right away as the leaves will begin to lose their form, become mushy, and change colors. This will be a stark contrast to a healthy set of living stone leaves, which should be relatively sturdy and hold their shape. Underwatering is incredibly rare for Burro's tail, as this species can often survive with no water at all. However, if underwatering does occur, you will usually notice leaf discoloration and dryness.
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How should I water my Burro's tail through the seasons?
As mentioned, Burro's tail needs the most water during the times of year that it is actively growing. By contrast, in winter, when the plant is entirely dormant, you should reduce these already low watering needs. In fact, during winter, you should not water this plant at all. Once spring arrives, wait until your Burro's tails begin to develop new leaves. Once that occurs, you can return to your regular watering schedule. During the hottest parts of summer, your plant may enter another dormant growth phase, which means its water needs will be lower than normal. As summer ends and fall arrives, you can begin reducing your watering in anticipation of winter. By the time winter arrives, you should cease watering altogether.
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How should I water my Burro's tail at different growth stages?
By and large, the water needs of Burro's tail will remain consistent throughout each of its growth stages. Anyway, Burro's tail prefers dry soil conditions more than moist ones, so watering less is safer for it than watering a lot. However, there are some phases in which your Burro's tail may need slightly more water than usual. Despite being known for their foliage, Burro's tails can also provide flowers, but these flowers do not arrive until the plant is at least a few years old. Once flower development is possible, your Burro's tail may need a minimal uptick in its watering schedule to accommodate flower development. Otherwise, you should not expect to change your watering frequency significantly based on this plant’s growth stages.
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What's the difference between watering Burro's tail indoors and outdoors?
Growing Burro's tails outdoors is not an option for most gardeners in hardiness zones colder than zone 9, as this plant loves areas that have warm or hot weather year-round. Only in regions that do not have yearly temperatures that fall below 40 degrees Fahrenheit can this plant species survive. If you live in such an area, you should study the average rainfall in your area as well. If you live where it rains often, your Burro's tail will likely die from overwatering. But if you live in a warm climate in which it rains occasionally, you may not need to water your Burro's tails at all.
Those who live in cooler areas of the world should have no issue growing this plant indoors. If that is the approach you take, you can wait until all of the soil in your plant's container has dried out while also following the rest of the general watering advice we've laid out in the sections above.
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Key Facts About Burro's tail

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Attributes of Burro's tail

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Succulent, Herb, Vine
Planting Time
All year around
Bloom Time
Late spring, Summer
Plant Height
30 cm
Spread
45 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Blue
Flower Color
Pink
Purple
Red
Stem Color
Green
Blue
Pink
Dormancy
Summer dormancy
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃

Symbolism

Peace and tranquility

Usages

Garden Use
The unique hanging foliage of the burro's tail makes it perfect for planting in pots and hanging baskets that adorn sunny patios or rooms. Its light-colored foliage is interesting year-round, and it grows lovely blooms in the spring. When used in succulent and rock gardens, it makes a lovely accent plant that can provide endless interest to your garden.

Trivia and Interesting Facts

Golden sedum is a lovely succulent plant with spoon-shaped leaves and lotus-shaped body. It has a small tip at the front. It looks golden or yellow-green and is an adorable plant at first glance.

Scientific Classification of Burro's tail

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Burro's tail

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Common issues for Burro's tail based on 10 million real cases
Low light
Low light Low light
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Scars
Scars Scars
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Low light
plant poor
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
  1. Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
  2. There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
  3. All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
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Scars
plant poor
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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Underwatering
plant poor
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
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Leaf rot
plant poor
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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distribution

Distribution of Burro's tail

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Habitat of Burro's tail

Vertical cliffs of igneous rock, Tropical Deciduous Forest zone
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Burro's tail

Burro's tail originates from the Gulf of Mexico. It has remained in its native land, not being distributed anywhere else in the world. Burro's tail thrives in dry, arid land where there's little rain.
distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
habit
care_scenes

More Info on Burro's Tail Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
Burro's tail thrives when bathed in abundant sunshine and can withstand some level of less intense sun. Exquisite growth can be observed when the plant receives ample and uninterrupted sun exposure, resembling its natural habitat. Overexposure can lead to leaf scorch, while inadequate sun may stunt growth.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
0 - 43 ℃
Burro's tail, is native to warmer regions and prefers temperatures ranging from 68 to 100 ℉ (20 to 38 ℃). During colder seasons, it's best to keep the temperature above 55 ℉ (13 ℃) to avoid frost damage. In hotter months, provide some shade to avoid scorching the leaves.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
6-8 inches
For burro's tail, transplanting is best done from early summer to mid-fall, ensuring a strong root system. Ensure a well-lighted location with good drainage. Gently remove any loose leaves before transplanting to prevent rot, ensuring a successful transition for this beautiful perennial.
Transplant Techniques
Overwinter
0 - 43 ℃
Native to Mexico, burro's tail flourishes under arid conditions. Winter survival depends on burro's tail's natural ability to store water in its leaves during colder, drier months. However, in domestic settings, burro's tail needs careful monitoring against frost exposure and over-watering. To sustain burro's tail's vibrancy, gardeners should consider adopting a conservative watering routine, providing bright but indirect sunlight, and maintain an ambient winter temperature above 10°C.
Winter Techniques
Propagation
Spring, Summer
Burro's tail is known for its ease of propagation, with the optimum seasons being spring and summer. It can be easily propagated through cuttings, with root formation as a sign of success. Ensure moisture control for best results.
Propagation Techniques
Feng shui direction
Southwest
Burro's tail symbolises endurance, resilience, and a strong connection to the earth element. It is suitable for Southwest-facing corners as this direction corresponds to love and relationships in Feng Shui. Burro's tail's tenacious growth can potentially enhance these aspects, albeit subtly and to varying degrees among individuals. Please interpret this with your personal understanding of Feng Shui.
Fengshui Details
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Plants Related to Burro's tail

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Fragrant virgin's bower
Fragrant virgin's bower
Fragrant virgin's bower is a woody climbing vine sprinkled with white fragrant flowers. It is often grown on fences and trellises, and if no support is given, it will climb on itself, creating dense masses of flowers and vines.
Hong Kong orchid tree
Hong Kong orchid tree
Hong Kong orchid tree (*Bauhinia blakeana*) is a beautiful flowering tree that will grow from 6 to 12 m tall. Branches grow up and out to form a spreading canopy of grayish green leaves. Large, orchid-like flowers bloom during summer, fall, and early winter. These 15 cm-long blossoms range in color from purple, rose, and pink to make a showy display. Grows in full sun to partial shade.
Fiddle-leaf fig
Fiddle-leaf fig
As its name implies, the fiddle-leaf fig has leaves that are shaped like a violin. Wildly popular as a houseplant, the Ficus lyrata makes an architectural statement with its unique and lush leaves. However, please be aware that this plant is finicky and can be hard to keep alive.
Pink shower tree
Pink shower tree
The pink shower tree is named for the long racemes of pink flowers that cascade down from its branches and at times obscure most of the green leaves. It also produces long, woody seed pods that can function as cattle fodder. The pink shower tree is often an important species for local bee populations.
Creeping Snowberry
Creeping Snowberry
Creeping Snowberry (Symphoricarpos mollis) is a plant that’s indigenous to western North America. Although most people consider it to be an edible plant, it has saponins in it. Saponins make things taste like soap. The berries appear in late summer.
Chaconia
Chaconia
Warszewiczia coccinea (or chaconia, wild poinsettia and pride of Trinidad and Tobago) is a species of flowering plant in the family Rubiaceae. It is the national flower of Trinidad and Tobago because it blooms on 31 August, which coincides with the day that Trinidad and Tobago became independent from the United Kingdom. This small, evergreen ornamental tree is remarkable for its inflorescence with bright red bracts and inconspicuous yellow petals. The anise-odored roots are said to exhibit aphrodisiac properties. A cultivar, the double chaconia, which has a double row of bracts, is the more widely cultivated form. This plant originates from cuttings taken from a wild plant found growing along a roadside. Since propagation from seed has not yet been successful, all double chaconias have been propagated by cuttings from this individual.
Cape jasmine
Cape jasmine
Gardenia jasminoides is an evergreen shrub with unique, glossy evergreen leaves and stunning flowers. The sophisticated, matte white flowers are often used in bouquets. The exceptional beauty of this ornamental plant has made it a popular and highly appreciated plant amongst gardeners and horticulturalists.
Golden pothos
Golden pothos
The golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular houseplant that is commonly seen in Australia, Asia, and the West Indies. It goes by many nicknames, including "devil's ivy", because it is so hard to kill and can even grow in low light conditions. Golden pothos has poisonous sap, so it should be kept away from pets and children.
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Burro's tail play
Burro's tail
Burro's tail
Burro's tail
Burro's tail
Burro's tail
Burro's tail
Sedum burrito
Also known as: Jelly bean
Burro's tail (Sedum burrito) is a flowering succulent species native to Honduras and southern Mexico. Burro's tail is valued as an ornamental houseplant and often grown in hanging baskets. This species is considered rare in nature as it only grows in a few small geographical regions. Burro's tail grows best in full-sunlight conditions.
Water
Water
Every 3 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
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Questions About Burro's tail

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Key Facts About Burro's tail

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Attributes of Burro's tail

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Succulent, Herb, Vine
Planting Time
All year around
Bloom Time
Late spring, Summer
Plant Height
30 cm
Spread
45 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Blue
Flower Color
Pink
Purple
Red
Stem Color
Green
Blue
Pink
Dormancy
Summer dormancy
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃
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Symbolism

Peace and tranquility

Usages

Garden Use
The unique hanging foliage of the burro's tail makes it perfect for planting in pots and hanging baskets that adorn sunny patios or rooms. Its light-colored foliage is interesting year-round, and it grows lovely blooms in the spring. When used in succulent and rock gardens, it makes a lovely accent plant that can provide endless interest to your garden.

Trivia and Interesting Facts

Golden sedum is a lovely succulent plant with spoon-shaped leaves and lotus-shaped body. It has a small tip at the front. It looks golden or yellow-green and is an adorable plant at first glance.

Scientific Classification of Burro's tail

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Burro's tail

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Common issues for Burro's tail based on 10 million real cases
Low light
Low light Low light Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Learn More About the Low light more
Scars
Scars Scars Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Learn More About the Scars more
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More About the Aged yellow and dry more
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Learn More About the Underwatering more
Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Learn More About the Leaf rot more
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More About the Brown spot more
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Low light
plant poor
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
  1. Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
  2. There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
  3. All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
Solutions
Solutions
Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed.
  • Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn.
  • Introduce appropriate artificial lighting.
  • Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Prevention
Prevention
To avoid etiolation, provide an adequate amount of light from the beginning.
  1. Choose a location that matches each plant's ideal light needs. Many indoor plants do best in or near a south-facing window, which will provide the longest hours of sunlight. Flowering plants and those with colored leaves typically need more light than purely-green plants, as photosynthesis occurs in the green portions of leaves.
  2. Select plants with light needs that match a location's conditions. Some cultivars and varieties require less light than others.
  3. Use a grow light. Darker locations may require artificial illumination. A grow light may also become more necessary during winter, when sunlit hours are at their shortest.
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Scars
plant poor
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Underwatering
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
  • Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
  • Avoid warm temperatures
  • Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
  • Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Leaf rot
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
  2. Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
  3. Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
  4. Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
  5. Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
  6. Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
  7. Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
  8. Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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distribution

Distribution of Burro's tail

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Habitat of Burro's tail

Vertical cliffs of igneous rock, Tropical Deciduous Forest zone
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Burro's tail

Burro's tail originates from the Gulf of Mexico. It has remained in its native land, not being distributed anywhere else in the world. Burro's tail thrives in dry, arid land where there's little rain.
distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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Plants Related to Burro's tail

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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Burro's tail thrives when bathed in abundant sunshine and can withstand some level of less intense sun. Exquisite growth can be observed when the plant receives ample and uninterrupted sun exposure, resembling its natural habitat. Overexposure can lead to leaf scorch, while inadequate sun may stunt growth.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Burro's tail is a beloved choice for indoor gardening, and they require strong light to thrive. However, when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting, they may develop symptoms of light deficiency.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your burro's tail may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Burro's tail enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Burro's tail require strong light to thrive, and some are remarkably resilient to sun exposure, rarely suffering from sunburn.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Burro's tail, is native to warmer regions and prefers temperatures ranging from 68 to 100 ℉ (20 to 38 ℃). During colder seasons, it's best to keep the temperature above 55 ℉ (13 ℃) to avoid frost damage. In hotter months, provide some shade to avoid scorching the leaves.
Regional wintering strategies
Winter is the growing season for Burro's tail, so it is important to maintain temperatures above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} for optimal growth. When the outdoor temperature drops below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it is advisable to bring the plant indoors to a well-lit area. Increase watering when the temperature is higher and reduce watering when it approaches {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. If overwintering the plant outdoors, it should be placed in a sheltered area with ample sunlight. Consider setting up a temporary greenhouse for protection if the outdoor temperature is consistently low and keep the plant adequately moist.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in Burro's tail
Burro's tail is not tolerant of extremely cold temperatures. It thrives best when the temperature is between {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} and {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves will exhibit water-soaked necrosis and wilting. In cases of mild frost damage, there may not be any initial symptoms, but after a week, the leaves will significantly wilt and eventually fall off.
Solutions
Trim off the frostbitten areas. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment or set up a makeshift greenhouse for cold protection. When placing the plant indoors, choose a location near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. When using a makeshift greenhouse, pay attention to ventilation to avoid plant decay due to poor airflow.
Symptoms of High Temperature in Burro's tail
During summer, Burro's tail should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant will enter a dormant state, and it becomes more prone to rot in high humidity conditions.
Solutions
Remove the dry and rotten parts. Move the plant to a partially shaded area, providing protection from direct sunlight during midday and afternoon. Stop watering the plant until the weather becomes cooler.
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