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Care Guide
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Palmer's sedum
Palmer's sedum
Palmer's sedum
Palmer's sedum
Palmer's sedum
Palmer's sedum
Palmer's sedum
Sedum emarginatum
Palmer's sedum (Sedum emarginatum) is a perennial succulent that does well as a drought-tolerant ground cover. Rosettes of leaves turn reddish when the weather cools down, and small yellow flowers bloom in summer.
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
care guide

Care Guide for Palmer's sedum

Watering Care
Watering Care
Drought-tolerant. Allow the soil to dry completely between watering.
Details on Watering Care Watering Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilization once a month during the growing season.
Details on Fertilizing Care Fertilizing Care
Pruning
Pruning
Deadhead (or remove) withered flowers after flowering.
Details on Pruning Pruning
Soil Care
Soil Care
Sand, Loam, Slightly alkaline
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
Repotting
Repotting
Potted sedum emarginatum is good for shallow planting.
Details on Repotting Repotting
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Palmer's sedum
Water
Water
Every 2-3 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Partial sun
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
question

Questions About Palmer's sedum

Watering Watering Watering
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What should I do if I water my Palmer's sedum too much or too little?
Underwatered Palmer's sedum
Palmer's sedum and other succulents can endure long periods without water, so it’s unusual to find one of these suffering from underwatering. But, if you somehow forgot about your plant and neglected to water it for a month or more, you’ll probably find your Palmer's sedum looking thirsty or with some damage from lack of watering.
It is very easy to identify an underwatered Palmer's sedum. Plant look lacklustre and wrinkled. Some may have dried up completely, turned brown and crispy, or dropped off the plant. And of course, the soil will be completely dried out.
If your Palmer's sedum is thirsty and underwatered, give it plenty of water as soon as possible. Submerging the pot entirely in water for about 5-10 minutes is a good way to make sure the soil and plant are rehydrated properly. When you feel a sense of moisture on the surface of the soil with your finger, it means the watering is done properly.
Overwatered Palmer's sedum
Overwatering is dangerous to Palmer's sedum and can be fatal to your plant if you don’t remedy the situation. Too much moisture over time leads to root rot, which prevents the roots from being able to absorb nutrients and water from the soil. Root rot occurs when wet conditions allow fungi and bacteria to flourish in the soil and feed on roots. When you find that it's overwatered, you'd better change the growing conditions, place it somewhere with more air ventilation and adjust water frequency, for example.
The symptoms of overwatering are yellow, swollen, and translucent organs that may even burst open from being over-full with water. If the problem continues without being treated, plant might turn brown or black, and fall off the plant at the slightest touch. Be sure to check the soil to determine if overwatering is the culprit, as some other issues can cause similar symptoms.
It’s a bit difficult (but not impossible) to save an overwatered plant. The key is catching it early before a lot of damage has occurred. If the roots become rotten, it is likely to kill the entire plant. If you suspect you have overwatered your Palmer's sedum, the first step is to remove it from its pot and check the roots and soil.
After removing the plant from its pot, gently remove wet soil from around the roots and then rinse them clean in room-temperature water. This helps with removing fungus that might be lurking in the soil and allows you to get a better sense of how healthy the roots are. If your plant has already developed root rot, you will see roots that are dark brown or black, soft, mushy, or slimy.
If the majority of the roots are already affected by root rot, it may not be possible to save the plant. In this case, it is best to remove any healthy stem and try to use these to propagate a new Palmer's sedum. If, on the other hand, only a portion of the roots have succumbed to rot and other healthy roots still remain, there is a chance it can be saved.
Use a sterilized cutting tool to remove any unhealthy-looking roots. Once you're left with only the firm, pale roots, it’s a good idea to dip them in a fungicide to kill off any remaining spores. After that you can repot your Palmer's sedum in fresh, free-draining potting soil. While this does not always work to save a succulent with root rot, in most cases this plant will be able to make a full recovery and will put out new growth starting in the next growing season.
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How often should I water my Palmer's sedum?
There’s not a hard-and-fast rule for how often to water Palmer's sedum. The best way to determine this is to check the soil and only water when it’s bone dry. You can either stick your finger in the pot or use a moisture meter to check the soil below the surface. When you plant it in a deep pot, you can do this with a stick or chopstick. If it feels even a little bit moist, wait a few days and check it again.
Most people will need to water Palmer's sedum about every two weeks in summer and once a month in winter, but there are several factors that can change the frequency. The section below lists some considerations that can help you to determine how often to water.
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What should I consider when watering my Palmer's sedum?
There are several environmental conditions that will affect how your Palmer's sedum needs to be watered, including the container size, soil type, temperature, and humidity.
First off, the container and soil you use will determine how often to water and how much water to use each time. Be sure you use a container with plenty of drainage holes in the bottom so extra water can escape the pot. A small container has less room for soil, meaning it won’t hold as much moisture, while a larger pot will stay wet longer and need to be watered less often. It’s important not to keep your Palmer's sedum in an oversized pot as this can easily lead to overwatering. When repotting, move to just one size larger than the current container. A shallow container works better than a deep one, since Palmer's sedum has shallow root systems.
Palmer's sedum will need to be watered less often in winter and more often in the active growing season in spring and autumn. During the winter, growth slows down considerably and the plant isn’t using much energy or water. There is less water lost to evaporation in cooler winter air, meaning that soil stays wet for much longer than it would in the summer.
This also applies to the general climate around your home. If you live in a humid location with a lot of rain, you will need to water less often than if you live in a dry, arid climate. Remember that conditions at the same geographic location can vary significantly with the season and the use of indoor heating and air conditioning.
Outdoor Planting
If Palmer's sedum is planted in the ground, after establishing a root system, it shouldn’t need supplemental water beyond what it receives through precipitation and dew. But if there is a long dry period, you may want to water occasionally. In other areas where Palmer's sedum can only be grown in a container, this plant can be moved outside in the spring and summer when the temperature is proper and then brought back inside when temperatures start to drop. A potted Palmer's sedum kept outside usually needs more water than the same plant kept indoors, because there is a lot more sun exposure even on a shaded porch.
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How to water Palmer's sedum?
The best way to water Palmer's sedum is to soak it thoroughly and then allow it to dry out before it gets watered again. Since this plant is somewhat drought tolerant, you can let it get quite dry before watering again. It is always better to give this type of plant too little water over too much.
When you water, make sure the soil gets thoroughly soaked throughout the whole pot. Don’t pour the water in just one spot, but rather try to go around the whole rim of the planter to be sure that it has a chance to get wet on all sides of the plant. The correct amount of water will depend on the size of your container and how much water your soil absorbs. Give your Palmer's sedum enough water that it drains out from the drainage holes and then (ideally) leave the drained water in the saucer for about 20-30 minutes to absorb into dry pockets of soil. After that, discard any excess water that’s still in the saucer to avoid the soil getting waterlogged.
Bottom-watering is also an excellent method for Palmer's sedum, as you can be sure that the soil gets thoroughly moistened. This process involves placing the pot into a saucer of water and allowing the soil to absorb moisture through the drainage holes. You will know that the soil has absorbed enough water when the top layer is moist. This takes a bit more time than top-watering, but is almost foolproof in getting an even distribution of water throughout the pot.
The original habitat of Palmer's sedum is relatively dry with little rain, but when it rains, the soil will be thoroughly moistened. So you can mimic this situation by bottom-watering your plant when the soil is totally dry. Deep soil bathing is better than frequent light watering for Palmer's sedum.
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plant_info

Key Facts About Palmer's sedum

Attributes of Palmer's sedum

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Succulent
Bloom Time
Late spring, Early summer
Plant Height
10 cm to 15 cm
Flower Size
3 mm to 6 mm
Flower Color
Yellow
Leaf type
Semi-evergreen
Ideal Temperature
10 - 35 ℃

Symbolism

Health and blessing

Usages

Garden Use
Palmer's sedum is a succulent herbaceous perennial commonly found across gardens in temperate climates. It is sought for its lush green foliage and pretty star-shaped flowers. Its mat-forming habit makes it suitable for foundation planting and borders. Palmer's sedum is perfect for xeriscaping and filling out rock gardens. Potential companions include coneflowers or asters for color contrast.

Trivia and Interesting Facts

It is called dedum emarginatum because the top of the leaf is round and concave. It is a kind of medicinal succulent plant in a delicate and lovely shape. It is popular among succulent plant lovers. Its small and dense flowers are golden when in bloom.

Scientific Classification of Palmer's sedum

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Palmer's sedum

Common issues for Palmer's sedum based on 10 million real cases
Low light
Low light Low light
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Scars
Scars Scars
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Low light
plant poor
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
  1. Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
  2. There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
  3. All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
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Scars
plant poor
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Leaf rot
plant poor
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
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Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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distribution

Distribution of Palmer's sedum

Habitat of Palmer's sedum

Shady and moist slopes
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Palmer's sedum

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
habit
care_scenes

More Info on Palmer's Sedum Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Partial sun
Palmer's sedum thrives well in locations where it receives a moderate amount of sunlight exposure. A lack of light or excessive exposure can hinder its growth. This preference is in line with its original habitat, which encompasses spaces with equilibrium sunlight. Different growth stages do not significantly alter sunlight requirements.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
-15 - 38 ℃
Palmer's sedum is indigenous to regions where the temperature fluctuates between 50 to 95 °F (10 to 35 ℃). It thrives in moderate climates and temperature regulation is crucial, especially in extreme weather conditions.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
1-2 feet
The prime time for transplanting palmer's sedum is during stages S2-S3, otherwise known as the early spring to mid-spring. This period allows the plant ample time to establish itself before summer. Choose a spot with good light exposure and let the soil drain well between waterings. Additional care might include occasional removal of old foliage.
Transplant Techniques
Feng shui direction
South
Palmer's sedum exudes a delicate equilibrium, which may commingle well with the energetic profiles sought in Feng Shui practices. Facing South could be favorable for palmer's sedum, a bearing traditionally linked with fame and reputation. Nuances, however, may differ based on individual perspectives and specific conditions within spaces.
Fengshui Details
other_plant

Plants Related to Palmer's sedum

Mexican fleabane
Mexican fleabane
Mexican fleabane (Erigeron karvinskianus) is a vigorous, spreading perennial plant growing from woody rhizomes. Mexican fleabane is native to Mexico, Central America, Colombia and Venezuela. This species is often cultivated for its daisy-like flowers, but it is not the true daisy Bellis perennis. Mexican fleabane, however, is closely related to Bellis perennis.
Marginal wood fern
Marginal wood fern
The marginal wood fern is a hardy fern whose tough, leathery fronds stay green all year round. It can grow in full sun to full shade and is extremely drought-tolerant. Sometimes, its rootstock can be exposed, making it look like a small tree.
Lizard's tail
Lizard's tail
Lizard's tail (Saururus cernuus) is a plant species that gets its common name from the phenomenon wherein its white flowers mature to a brown color and droop over. The flowers then resemble a lizard's tail. Lizard's tail grows in wet areas or shallow water, and it is an important source of food for many species, including beavers.
Little jewel
Little jewel
The surface of a little jewel leaf has irregular white ribs that feel like a stylish geometric patchwork. When the plant is fully displaying its vibrant colors, its green leaves turn yellowish-orange and its leaf tips turn red, with a jelly-like translucency.
Pachyveria Glauca
Pachyveria Glauca
The pachyveria Glauca (×Pachyveria 'Glauca') has slightly flattened cylindrical leaves that are grayish-green in color with a powdery white layer on the surface. The leaf blades turn red at the tips with prolonged sunlight exposure and can exhibit a pretty pink color variation under temperature changes.
Lily of the valley bush
Lily of the valley bush
Also known as lily of the valley bush, this evergreen shrub is native to eastern Asia. It blooms in early spring with clusters of fragrant white flowers, attracting bees and butterflies. The glossy foliage turns pink or red in the fall, adding a splash of color to the garden.
Cape jasmine
Cape jasmine
Gardenia jasminoides is an evergreen shrub with unique, glossy evergreen leaves and stunning flowers. The sophisticated, matte white flowers are often used in bouquets. The exceptional beauty of this ornamental plant has made it a popular and highly appreciated plant amongst gardeners and horticulturalists.
Golden pothos
Golden pothos
The golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular houseplant that is commonly seen in Australia, Asia, and the West Indies. It goes by many nicknames, including "devil's ivy", because it is so hard to kill and can even grow in low light conditions. Golden pothos has poisonous sap, so it should be kept away from pets and children.
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About
Care Guide
Care FAQ
More Info
Pests & Diseases
Distribution
More About How-Tos
Related Plants
Palmer's sedum
Palmer's sedum
Palmer's sedum
Palmer's sedum
Palmer's sedum
Palmer's sedum
Palmer's sedum
Sedum emarginatum
Palmer's sedum (Sedum emarginatum) is a perennial succulent that does well as a drought-tolerant ground cover. Rosettes of leaves turn reddish when the weather cools down, and small yellow flowers bloom in summer.
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
question

Questions About Palmer's sedum

Watering Watering Watering
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What should I do if I water my Palmer's sedum too much or too little?
more
How often should I water my Palmer's sedum?
more
What should I consider when watering my Palmer's sedum?
more
How to water Palmer's sedum?
more
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plant_info

Key Facts About Palmer's sedum

Attributes of Palmer's sedum

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Succulent
Bloom Time
Late spring, Early summer
Plant Height
10 cm to 15 cm
Flower Size
3 mm to 6 mm
Flower Color
Yellow
Leaf type
Semi-evergreen
Ideal Temperature
10 - 35 ℃
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Symbolism

Health and blessing

Usages

Garden Use
Palmer's sedum is a succulent herbaceous perennial commonly found across gardens in temperate climates. It is sought for its lush green foliage and pretty star-shaped flowers. Its mat-forming habit makes it suitable for foundation planting and borders. Palmer's sedum is perfect for xeriscaping and filling out rock gardens. Potential companions include coneflowers or asters for color contrast.

Trivia and Interesting Facts

It is called dedum emarginatum because the top of the leaf is round and concave. It is a kind of medicinal succulent plant in a delicate and lovely shape. It is popular among succulent plant lovers. Its small and dense flowers are golden when in bloom.

Scientific Classification of Palmer's sedum

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Palmer's sedum

Common issues for Palmer's sedum based on 10 million real cases
Low light
Low light Low light Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Learn More About the Low light more
Scars
Scars Scars Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Learn More About the Scars more
Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
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Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Low light
plant poor
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
  1. Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
  2. There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
  3. All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
Solutions
Solutions
Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed.
  • Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn.
  • Introduce appropriate artificial lighting.
  • Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Prevention
Prevention
To avoid etiolation, provide an adequate amount of light from the beginning.
  1. Choose a location that matches each plant's ideal light needs. Many indoor plants do best in or near a south-facing window, which will provide the longest hours of sunlight. Flowering plants and those with colored leaves typically need more light than purely-green plants, as photosynthesis occurs in the green portions of leaves.
  2. Select plants with light needs that match a location's conditions. Some cultivars and varieties require less light than others.
  3. Use a grow light. Darker locations may require artificial illumination. A grow light may also become more necessary during winter, when sunlit hours are at their shortest.
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Scars
plant poor
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Leaf rot
plant poor
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
  2. Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
  3. Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
  4. Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
  5. Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
  6. Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
  7. Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
  8. Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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distribution

Distribution of Palmer's sedum

Habitat of Palmer's sedum

Shady and moist slopes
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Palmer's sedum

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Palmer's Sedum Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Partial sun
Ideal
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Palmer's sedum thrives well in locations where it receives a moderate amount of sunlight exposure. A lack of light or excessive exposure can hinder its growth. This preference is in line with its original habitat, which encompasses spaces with equilibrium sunlight. Different growth stages do not significantly alter sunlight requirements.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Palmer's sedum thrives in partial sunlight but can tolerate full sunlight in cooler weather. As a popular indoor plant, it's often placed in rooms with insufficient lighting, increasing the likelihood of light deficiency symptoms.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Palmer's sedum may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Palmer's sedum enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To optimize plant growth, shift them to increasingly sunnier spots each week until they receive 3-6 hours of direct sunlight daily, enabling gradual adaptation to changing light conditions.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Palmer's sedum prefers partial sun exposure but can tolerate full sun in cooler weather. However, during summer, they are more susceptible to sunburn due to their inability to withstand intense sunlight in high-temperature environments.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Palmer's sedum is indigenous to regions where the temperature fluctuates between 50 to 95 °F (10 to 35 ℃). It thrives in moderate climates and temperature regulation is crucial, especially in extreme weather conditions.
Regional wintering strategies
Palmer's sedum is a heat-loving plant that gradually stops growing and enters a dormant state during the winter. When the outdoor temperature drops below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it should be moved indoors for cultivation. Choose a location near a south-facing window to provide as much sunlight as possible. If there is insufficient natural light, supplemental lighting can be used. When the temperature falls below {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}, the plant's growth slows down, and watering should be reduced or stopped to prevent root rot. For Palmer's sedum grown outdoors, watering should be completely halted during low temperatures. If feasible, you can set up a temporary greenhouse for insulation or use materials such as plastic film or fabric to wrap the plant during cold temperatures.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in %s
Palmer's sedum thrives in high temperatures and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It grows best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the plant may become weak, wilt, and be prone to root rot. In cases of mild frost damage, there may not be any initial symptoms, but after a week, the plant will gradually wither.
Solutions
Trim off the frostbitten areas, paying attention to whether the roots have rotted. If the roots have rotted, they need to be cut off, and the plant can be propagated through cuttings. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment and place the plant near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. If there is insufficient light, you can use supplemental lighting.
Symptoms of High Temperature in %s
During summer, Palmer's sedum should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant's growth will cease, it will experience water loss, wilting, and becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Remove the sunburned and rotten parts. Shield the plant from afternoon sunlight until it recovers and starts growing again. For plants with root rot, stop watering until new roots begin to emerge.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Palmer's Sedum?
The prime time for transplanting palmer's sedum is during stages S2-S3, otherwise known as the early spring to mid-spring. This period allows the plant ample time to establish itself before summer. Choose a spot with good light exposure and let the soil drain well between waterings. Additional care might include occasional removal of old foliage.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Palmer's Sedum?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Palmer's Sedum?
Ideally, transplant palmer's sedum in the bridge from spring to early summer. This time frame enjoys the mild climate, perfect for new roots to adjust.", "Transplanting in this season favors palmer's sedum with ample sunlight and warm soil for optimizing the growth and giving it a blooming head start.", "The perfect time involves nurturing palmer's sedum with optimum care before harsh seasons hit, ensuring it adjusts well. Our friendly advice? Spring to early summer is your go-to!
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Palmer's Sedum Plants?
When planning for palmer's sedum, make sure to leave about 1-2 feet (0.3 - 0.6 meters) between each plant. This will give them enough space to grow without competing for resources. This distancing is especially significant if you're planting more than one palmer's sedum.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Palmer's Sedum Transplanting?
Before you start transplanting, prep your soil. The palmer's sedum prefers a well-draining soil mix, such as cactus or succulent mix. Adding a base fertilizer, like a controlled-release granular fertilizer, will further boost their growth.
Where Should You Relocate Your Palmer's Sedum?
Your palmer's sedum loves the sun! Try to find a location that is exposed to a good amount of sunlight throughout the day – ideally, a spot that gets at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. An east or south-facing location would be perfect.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Palmer's Sedum?
Gardening gloves
To protect your hands from dirt and potential sharp edges while working with palmer's sedum.
Shovel or Spade
You'll need this to dig the holes where you'll plant palmer's sedum.
Gardening trowel
This tool is for removing the palmer's sedum from its current location, especially if it's in a pot or seedling tray.
Pruning shears
Useful for trimming any damaged roots or leaves of palmer's sedum.
Watering can or hose
This is to water the palmer's sedum after being transplanted.
Mulch
To help maintain soil moisture after transplanting palmer's sedum.
How Do You Remove Palmer's Sedum from the Soil?
From pot or seedling tray: Gently tip the pot on its side, then grip the palmer's sedum at its base and twist, easing it out of the container. Remember to be gentle as you don't want to damage the plant. If palmer's sedum is in a seedling tray, you can use a gardening trowel to carefully remove it along with its root ball.
From Ground: Before anything else, water the palmer's sedum plant to soften the soil. Then, using a shovel or garden fork, dig around the plant, wide enough circle to encompass all of the roots. Use the shovel or garden fork to lift the root ball of the palmer's sedum out from the ground. Be very careful not to cut into or damage the root system.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Palmer's Sedum
Preparation
Start by digging a hole in the new location where you will be transplanting the palmer's sedum. The hole should be twice as wide and equally as deep as the root ball of the palmer's sedum. Make sure the hole is ready before you remove the palmer's sedum from its current place.
Transplanting
Place the root ball of palmer's sedum carefully into the hole. The surface of the root ball should be at the same level as the surrounding soil. Then back-fill the hole with soil, pressing gently to remove any air pockets.
Watering
Once palmer's sedum is in place, use the watering can or hose to water the plant thoroughly.
Mulching
Finally, spread mulch around the base of the palmer's sedum to help maintain moisture levels and prevent weeds that could compete with the palmer's sedum for nutrients.
How Do You Care For Palmer's Sedum After Transplanting?
Watering
After transplanting, the palmer's sedum will need consistent watering. Keep the soil around the plant consistently moist but not waterlogged.
Trimming
If any part of the palmer's sedum appears to be dying off after transplanting, don't panic. You can use the pruning shears to remove these parts. This allows the plant to focus its energy on new growth.
Monitoring
Keep a close eye on the palmer's sedum, especially in the first few weeks after transplanting. This includes checking the plant for signs of distress, such as wilting or yellowing. If you notice any of these conditions, they may indicate that the plant is not getting enough water, or that it is getting too much.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Palmer's Sedum Transplantation.
When is the best time to transplant palmer's sedum?
The sweet spot for transplanting palmer's sedum is during S2-S3 (late spring to early-to-mid-summer). It gives the plant plenty of time to establish before winter.
What is the appropriate spacing for palmer's sedum during transplantation?
Ensure a gap of 1-2 feet (30.5 - 61 cm), this offers room for healthy growth and prevents overcrowding.
Do I need to water palmer's sedum immediately after transplanting?
Absolutely! To help settle the roots and alleviate transplant shock, water palmer's sedum thoroughly immediately after transplanting.
What type of soil is best for palmer's sedum transplantation?
Palmer's sedum thrives best in well-drained soil. Incorporate organic compost into the soil to boost fertility and enhance its nutrient content.
How deep should I plant palmer's sedum?
The hole should be deep enough to accommodate palmer's sedum's root ball. Remember, roots shouldn't be bending upwards or sit too deep.
Can I transplant palmer's sedum in a pot?
Yes, you can! Find a pot that's 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cm) larger than the root ball. Ensure it has draining holes.
What should I do if my palmer's sedum looks droopy after transplanting?
It's normal since palmer's sedum might experience transplant shock. Keep the soil consistently moist and place it in partial shade until it recovers.
Should I add fertilizers during palmer's sedum transplantation?
During transplantation, it's best to use organic compost for fertility. Reserve fertilizer usage for established palmer's sedum to promote blooming and growth.
Does palmer's sedum require any special care post-transplantation?
Keep the soil evenly moist, avoiding both waterlogging and drought. Provide it with periodic growth-boosting fertilizers, especially in the first few weeks.
Can I prune palmer's sedum immediately after transplanting?
Not recommended. Let your palmer's sedum adapt to its new environment first. Postpone pruning until the plant has fully recovered from the transplantation process.
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This cookie provides mobile analytics and attribution services that enable us to measure and analyze the effectiveness of marketing campaigns, certain events and actions within the Application. Learn more here.
Lifespan
1 Year
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