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Stringy stonecrop
Stringy stonecrop
Stringy stonecrop
Stringy stonecrop
Stringy stonecrop
Stringy stonecrop
Stringy stonecrop
Sedum sarmentosum
Also known as : Graveyard moss, Trailing stonecrop
Stringy stonecrop is a perennial plant with stems that can be up to 25 cm length. It has star-shaped flowers that are yellow-green. This plant is extremely easy to propagate, simply pushing one of the stems into the ground in your desired location is enough to usually cause stringy stonecrop to take root.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
5 to 10
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care guide

Care Guide for Stringy stonecrop

Watering Care
Watering Care
Stringy stonecrop plants are drought tolerant and don't need loads of moisture, but they do benefit from some regular watering. When there is a lack of rainfall, give your plant a good drink, then let the soil dry out completely before watering again. Avoid getting water on the leaves and flowers to prevent disease.
Details on Watering Care Watering Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilizing Care
Stringy stonecrop prefers nutrient-poor soil over dark, rich soil, so fertilizer is generally not recommended. In fact, if the soil is TOO rich, your plant could become elongated and leggy. An annual application of compost would be plenty to give your plant a boost – chemical fertilizers are usually too strong for it.
Details on Fertilizing Care Fertilizing Care
Pruning
Pruning
Deadhead (or remove) withered flowers after flowering.
Details on Pruning Pruning
Soil Care
Soil Care
Sand, Loam, Slightly acidic, Neutral, Slightly alkaline
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
Repotting
Repotting
Both
Details on Repotting Repotting
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Stringy stonecrop
Water
Water
Every 3 weeks
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
5 to 10
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring, Summer
question

Questions About Stringy stonecrop

Watering Watering Watering
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What should I do if I water my Stringy stonecrop too much or too little?
Underwatered Stringy stonecrop
Stringy stonecrop and other succulents can endure long periods without water, so it’s unusual to find one of these suffering from underwatering. But, if you somehow forgot about your plant and neglected to water it for a month or more, you’ll probably find your Stringy stonecrop looking thirsty or with some leaf damage from lack of watering.
It is very easy to identify an underwatered Stringy stonecrop. The leaves will look shriveled, dry, and flat. Some may have dried up completely, turned brown and crispy, or dropped off the plant, starting with the lower leaves and moving upward as the dry conditions continue. And of course, the soil will be completely dried out.
If your Stringy stonecrop is thirsty and underwatered, give it plenty of water as soon as possible. Submerging the pot entirely in water for about 5-10 minutes is a good way to make sure the soil and plant are rehydrated properly. When you feel a sense of moisture on the surface of the soil with your finger, it means the watering is done properly. If there are dried out leaves still attached, go ahead and pluck them off to make room for new growth.
Overwatered Stringy stonecrop
Overwatering is dangerous to Stringy stonecrop and can be fatal to your plant if you don’t remedy the situation. Too much moisture over time leads to root rot, which prevents the roots from being able to absorb nutrients and water from the soil. Root rot occurs when wet conditions allow fungi and bacteria to flourish in the soil and feed on roots. When you find that it's overwatered, you'd better change the growing conditions, place it somewhere with more air ventilation and adjust water frequency, for example.
The symptoms of overwatering are yellow, swollen, and translucent leaves that may even burst open from being over-full with water. If the problem continues without being treated, leaves might turn brown or black, and fall off the plant at the slightest touch. Be sure to check the soil to determine if overwatering is the culprit, as some other issues can cause similar symptoms.
It’s a bit difficult (but not impossible) to save an overwatered plant. The key is catching it early before a lot of damage has occurred. If the roots become rotten, it is likely to kill the entire plant. If you suspect you have overwatered your Stringy stonecrop, the first step is to remove it from its pot and check the roots and soil.
After removing the plant from its pot, gently remove wet soil from around the roots and then rinse them clean in room-temperature water. This helps with removing fungus that might be lurking in the soil and allows you to get a better sense of how healthy the roots are. If your plant has already developed root rot, you will see roots that are dark brown or black, soft, mushy, or slimy.
If the majority of the roots are already affected by root rot, it may not be possible to save the plant. In this case, it is best to remove any healthy leaves and try to use these to propagate a new Stringy stonecrop. Luckily, this plant is easy to propagate even from a single leaf. If, on the other hand, only a portion of the roots have succumbed to rot and other healthy roots still remain, there is a chance it can be saved.
Use a sterilized cutting tool to remove any unhealthy-looking roots. Once you're left with only the firm, pale roots, it’s a good idea to dip them in a fungicide to kill off any remaining spores. After that you can repot your Stringy stonecrop in fresh, free-draining potting soil. While this does not always work to save a succulent with root rot, in most cases this plant will be able to make a full recovery and will put out new growth starting in the next growing season.
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How often should I water my Stringy stonecrop?
There’s not a hard-and-fast rule for how often to water Stringy stonecrop. The best way to determine this is to check the soil and only water when it’s bone dry. You can either stick your finger in the pot or use a moisture meter to check the soil below the surface. When you plant it in a deep pot, you can do this with a stick or chopstick. If it feels even a little bit moist, wait a few days and check it again.
Most people will need to water Stringy stonecrop about every two weeks in summer and once a month in winter, but there are several factors that can change the frequency. The section below lists some considerations that can help you to determine how often to water.
Read More more
What should I consider when watering my Stringy stonecrop?
There are several environmental conditions that will affect how your Stringy stonecrop needs to be watered, including the container size, soil type, temperature, and humidity.
First off, the container and soil you use will determine how often to water and how much water to use each time. Be sure you use a container with plenty of drainage holes in the bottom so extra water can escape the pot. A small container has less room for soil, meaning it won’t hold as much moisture, while a larger pot will stay wet longer and need to be watered less often. It’s important not to keep your Stringy stonecrop in an oversized pot as this can easily lead to overwatering. When repotting, move to just one size larger than the current container. A shallow container works better than a deep one, since Stringy stonecrop has shallow root systems.
Stringy stonecrop will need to be watered less often in winter and more often in the active growing season in spring and autumn. During the winter, growth slows down considerably and the plant isn’t using much energy or water. There is less water lost to evaporation in cooler winter air, meaning that soil stays wet for much longer than it would in the summer.
This also applies to the general climate around your home. If you live in a humid location with a lot of rain, you will need to water less often than if you live in a dry, arid climate. Remember that conditions at the same geographic location can vary significantly with the season and the use of indoor heating and air conditioning.
Outdoor Planting
If Stringy stonecrop is planted in the ground, after establishing a root system, it shouldn’t need supplemental water beyond what it receives through precipitation and dew. But if there is a long dry period, you may want to water occasionally. In other areas where Stringy stonecrop can only be grown in a container, this plant can be moved outside in the spring and summer when the temperature is proper and then brought back inside when temperatures start to drop. A potted Stringy stonecrop kept outside usually needs more water than the same plant kept indoors, because there is a lot more sun exposure even on a shaded porch.
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How to water Stringy stonecrop?
The best way to water Stringy stonecrop is to soak it thoroughly and then allow it to dry out before it gets watered again. Since this plant is somewhat drought tolerant, you can let it get quite dry before watering again. It is always better to give this type of plant too little water over too much.
When you water, make sure the soil gets thoroughly soaked throughout the whole pot. Don’t pour the water in just one spot, but rather try to go around the whole rim of the planter to be sure that it has a chance to get wet on all sides of the plant. The correct amount of water will depend on the size of your container and how much water your soil absorbs. Give your Stringy stonecrop enough water that it drains out from the drainage holes and then (ideally) leave the drained water in the saucer for about 20-30 minutes to absorb into dry pockets of soil. After that, discard any excess water that’s still in the saucer to avoid the soil getting waterlogged.
Bottom-watering is also an excellent method for the Stringy stonecrop, as you can be sure that the soil gets thoroughly moistened. This process involves placing the pot into a saucer of water and allowing the soil to absorb moisture through the drainage holes. You will know that the soil has absorbed enough water when the top layer is moist. This takes a bit more time than top-watering, but is almost foolproof in getting an even distribution of water throughout the pot.
The original habitat of Stringy stonecrop is relatively dry with little rain, but when it rains, the soil will be thoroughly moistened. So you can mimic this situation by bottom-watering your plant when the soil is totally dry. Deep soil bathing is better than frequent light watering for Stringy stonecrop.
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Key Facts About Stringy stonecrop

Attributes of Stringy stonecrop

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Succulent, Vine, Herb
Planting Time
Spring, Summer
Bloom Time
Late spring, Summer
Harvest Time
Summer
Plant Height
15 cm
Spread
46 cm to 61 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Yellow
Gold
Flower Size
5 mm to 8 mm
Flower Color
Yellow
Fruit Color
Brown
Stem Color
Green
Purple
Dormancy
Winter dormancy
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
5 - 35 ℃
Growth Season
Summer
Growth Rate
Rapid

Name story

Stringy stonecrop
Stringy Stonecrop is inspired by the way the flowers grow on very thin stems. This particular aspect is unnoticeable because the flowers rest on top of the larger leaves.
Graveyard moss
Like most succulents, it is tolerant of drought and full sun conditions. It was commonly planted at graves, where it may persist for decades, so it is called graveyard moss.

Symbolism

Tranquillity

Usages

Garden Use
Stringy stonecrop is a popular garden perennial prized for its glossy green leaves and small white flowers. It is commonly used as a ground cover and is essential in succulent gardens, where it adds texture when planted with blue fescue or sedum.

Trivia and Interesting Facts

Golden sedum is a lovely succulent plant with spoon-shaped leaves and lotus-shaped body. It has a small tip at the front. It looks golden or yellow-green and is an adorable plant at first glance.

Scientific Classification of Stringy stonecrop

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Stringy stonecrop

Common issues for Stringy stonecrop based on 10 million real cases
Low light
Low light Low light
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Scars
Scars Scars
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Low light
plant poor
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
  1. Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
  2. There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
  3. All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
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Scars
plant poor
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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distribution

Distribution of Stringy stonecrop

Habitat of Stringy stonecrop

Shady places and rocks on slopes
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Stringy stonecrop

The native range of stringy stonecrop is East Asia. In its native range, this plant can be found growing along streams, ledges, and roads. It has also been planted as a garden ornamental in eastern North America and Europe. However, it has been recorded as invasive in several countries, including parts of the United States.
distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
habit
care_scenes

More Info on Stringy Stonecrop Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
Stringy stonecrop thrives in conditions closely resembling a radiant abundance of light, often seen in its native habitats. While it can cope with subdued light or dense shade, neither is ideal for optimum growth. A lack of light may lead to weaker stems and leaves, whereas overly intense light could potentially cause leaf burn.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
-20 - 41 ℃
The preferred temperature range for stringy stonecrop is from 41 to 95 ℉ (5 to 35 ℃). Native to China, it is adjusted to varying temperature in spring and fall. For winter months, it is necessary to move the plant indoors when the temperature falls below 41 ℉ (5 ℃).
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
6-12 inches
The ideal season to transplant stringy stonecrop is during the warm embrace of mid to late summer. Choose a location with well-drained soil and plenty of sunshine. Ensure stringy stonecrop has enough space to spread while transplanting for healthy growth. Happy gardening!
Transplant Techniques
Feng shui direction
West
The stringy stonecrop harmonizes well with a West-facing direction, often suggested as enhancing yin energy in Feng Shui practice. This succulent acts as a prolific ground cover, potentially symbolizing abundance and prosperity in a western plot. Keep in mind that the unique characteristics of each location can impact these general interpretations.
Fengshui Details
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Plants Related to Stringy stonecrop

Mexican sunflower
Mexican sunflower
The mexican sunflower is a perennial plant that can grow up to 3 m tall and is native to Mexico and Central Africa. You can find this flower in shades of red, yellow, and orange. The leaves and flowers are edible and can be used for garnishing.
Mango tree
Mango tree
Mango tree is a large tree native to the Indian subcontinent. It is most well-known for the tropical fruit it produces, and mango is the national fruit of India, Pakistan, and the Philippines. Mango tree can also be used for wood after the tree’s fruit production is over. This type of wood is highly prized for making musical instruments.
Straggler daisy
Straggler daisy
The straggler daisy is a low-growing ground cover plant that tolerates shade and can withstand moderate foot traffic. The straggler daisy blooms for the entire spring, summer, and well into fall. In frost-free areas, year-round blooming is possible and the flowers of this plant are a sunny yellow color.
Life plant
Life plant
Life plant is a succulent plant from Madagascar remarkable for its ability to generate small bullets on the edges of "leaves." Actually, these thick, fleshy "leaves" are not true leaves but flattened shoots instead. Life plant is easy to grow and used as a potting or hanging plant indoor.
Dog rose
Dog rose
The dog rose is a pale pink type of rose. The plant is known for "climbing" as it grows and can even be found climbing up different trees. References to dog rose date back at least to ancient Rome, and it is featured in many European riddles and even Shakespearian quotes as well.
Beach sheoak
Beach sheoak
Beach sheoak (Casuarina equisetifolia) is a flowering evergreen tree that is considered invasive in some areas. Beach sheoak replaces native trees and disturbs their natural habitat. Beach sheoak produces a woody fruit that attract birds. It does not grow well in cold temperatures and is intolerant to frost. This species grows well in coastal areas and tolerates salty soil.
Poison ivy
Poison ivy
In pop culture, poison ivy is a symbol of an obnoxious weed because, despite its unthreatening looks, it gives a highly unpleasant contact rash to the unfortunate person who touches it. Still, it is commonly eaten by many animals, and the seeds are a favorite with birds. The leaves turn bright red in fall. Its sister species, Western poison ivy (Toxicodendron rydbergii), is not considered to be invasive in the United States, but is noxious in Australia and New Zealand.
Pokeweed
Pokeweed
Although its berries look juicy and tempting, the fruits and the root of pokeweed are toxic and should not be eaten. Pokeweed is considered a pest species by farmers but is nevertheless often grown as an ornamental plant. Its berries can be made into pokeberry ink as well.
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Stringy stonecrop
Stringy stonecrop
Stringy stonecrop
Stringy stonecrop
Stringy stonecrop
Stringy stonecrop
Stringy stonecrop
Sedum sarmentosum
Also known as: Graveyard moss, Trailing stonecrop
Stringy stonecrop is a perennial plant with stems that can be up to 25 cm length. It has star-shaped flowers that are yellow-green. This plant is extremely easy to propagate, simply pushing one of the stems into the ground in your desired location is enough to usually cause stringy stonecrop to take root.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
5 to 10
more
question

Questions About Stringy stonecrop

Watering Watering Watering
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What should I do if I water my Stringy stonecrop too much or too little?
more
How often should I water my Stringy stonecrop?
more
What should I consider when watering my Stringy stonecrop?
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How to water Stringy stonecrop?
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plant_info

Key Facts About Stringy stonecrop

Attributes of Stringy stonecrop

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Succulent, Vine, Herb
Planting Time
Spring, Summer
Bloom Time
Late spring, Summer
Harvest Time
Summer
Plant Height
15 cm
Spread
46 cm to 61 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Yellow
Gold
Flower Size
5 mm to 8 mm
Flower Color
Yellow
Fruit Color
Brown
Stem Color
Green
Purple
Dormancy
Winter dormancy
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
5 - 35 ℃
Growth Season
Summer
Growth Rate
Rapid
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Name story

Stringy stonecrop
Stringy Stonecrop is inspired by the way the flowers grow on very thin stems. This particular aspect is unnoticeable because the flowers rest on top of the larger leaves.
Graveyard moss
Like most succulents, it is tolerant of drought and full sun conditions. It was commonly planted at graves, where it may persist for decades, so it is called graveyard moss.

Symbolism

Tranquillity

Usages

Garden Use
Stringy stonecrop is a popular garden perennial prized for its glossy green leaves and small white flowers. It is commonly used as a ground cover and is essential in succulent gardens, where it adds texture when planted with blue fescue or sedum.

Trivia and Interesting Facts

Golden sedum is a lovely succulent plant with spoon-shaped leaves and lotus-shaped body. It has a small tip at the front. It looks golden or yellow-green and is an adorable plant at first glance.

Scientific Classification of Stringy stonecrop

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Stringy stonecrop

Common issues for Stringy stonecrop based on 10 million real cases
Low light
Low light Low light Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Learn More About the Low light more
Scars
Scars Scars Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Learn More About the Scars more
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More About the Aged yellow and dry more
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More About the Brown spot more
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Low light
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Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
  1. Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
  2. There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
  3. All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
Solutions
Solutions
Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed.
  • Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn.
  • Introduce appropriate artificial lighting.
  • Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Prevention
Prevention
To avoid etiolation, provide an adequate amount of light from the beginning.
  1. Choose a location that matches each plant's ideal light needs. Many indoor plants do best in or near a south-facing window, which will provide the longest hours of sunlight. Flowering plants and those with colored leaves typically need more light than purely-green plants, as photosynthesis occurs in the green portions of leaves.
  2. Select plants with light needs that match a location's conditions. Some cultivars and varieties require less light than others.
  3. Use a grow light. Darker locations may require artificial illumination. A grow light may also become more necessary during winter, when sunlit hours are at their shortest.
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Scars
plant poor
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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distribution

Distribution of Stringy stonecrop

Habitat of Stringy stonecrop

Shady places and rocks on slopes
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Stringy stonecrop

The native range of stringy stonecrop is East Asia. In its native range, this plant can be found growing along streams, ledges, and roads. It has also been planted as a garden ornamental in eastern North America and Europe. However, it has been recorded as invasive in several countries, including parts of the United States.
distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Stringy Stonecrop Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Plants Related to Stringy stonecrop

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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun, Full shade
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Stringy stonecrop thrives in conditions closely resembling a radiant abundance of light, often seen in its native habitats. While it can cope with subdued light or dense shade, neither is ideal for optimum growth. A lack of light may lead to weaker stems and leaves, whereas overly intense light could potentially cause leaf burn.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Stringy stonecrop is a beloved choice for indoor gardening, and they require strong light to thrive. However, when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting, they may develop symptoms of light deficiency.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your stringy stonecrop may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Slower or no new growth
Stringy stonecrop enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Stringy stonecrop require strong light to thrive, and some are remarkably resilient to sun exposure, rarely suffering from sunburn.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
The preferred temperature range for stringy stonecrop is from 41 to 95 ℉ (5 to 35 ℃). Native to China, it is adjusted to varying temperature in spring and fall. For winter months, it is necessary to move the plant indoors when the temperature falls below 41 ℉ (5 ℃).
Regional wintering strategies
Stringy stonecrop is a heat-loving plant that gradually stops growing and enters a dormant state during the winter. When the outdoor temperature drops below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it should be moved indoors for cultivation. Choose a location near a south-facing window to provide as much sunlight as possible. If there is insufficient natural light, supplemental lighting can be used. When the temperature falls below {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}, the plant's growth slows down, and watering should be reduced or stopped to prevent root rot. For Stringy stonecrop grown outdoors, watering should be completely halted during low temperatures. If feasible, you can set up a temporary greenhouse for insulation or use materials such as plastic film or fabric to wrap the plant during cold temperatures.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in %s
Stringy stonecrop thrives in high temperatures and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It grows best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the plant may become weak, wilt, and be prone to root rot. In cases of mild frost damage, there may not be any initial symptoms, but after a week, the plant will gradually wither.
Solutions
Trim off the frostbitten areas, paying attention to whether the roots have rotted. If the roots have rotted, they need to be cut off, and the plant can be propagated through cuttings. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment and place the plant near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. If there is insufficient light, you can use supplemental lighting.
Symptoms of High Temperature in %s
During summer, Stringy stonecrop should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant's growth will cease, it will experience water loss, wilting, and becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Remove the sunburned and rotten parts. Shield the plant from afternoon sunlight until it recovers and starts growing again. For plants with root rot, stop watering until new roots begin to emerge.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Stringy Stonecrop?
The ideal season to transplant stringy stonecrop is during the warm embrace of mid to late summer. Choose a location with well-drained soil and plenty of sunshine. Ensure stringy stonecrop has enough space to spread while transplanting for healthy growth. Happy gardening!
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Stringy Stonecrop?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Stringy Stonecrop?
For stringy stonecrop, the transplanting sweet spot is from the heart of summer through its waning days. This period cultivates the strongest growth environment. Moving stringy stonecrop during this time fosters their overall health, allowing roots to settle, absorb nutrients, and flourish. Friend, this means less upkeep and a lavish garden with strapping stringy stonecrop thriving beautifully!
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Stringy Stonecrop Plants?
For transplanting stringy stonecrop, the ideal spacing between plants is 6-12 inches (15-30 cm) apart. This will give your growing plants plenty of room to spread and thrive, ensuring a healthy and beautiful garden.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Stringy Stonecrop Transplanting?
To prepare for transplanting stringy stonecrop, choose a well-draining soil mix, as this plant prefers slightly dry conditions. Add a balanced slow-release fertilizer to the soil before planting, ensuring a strong and steady growth for your stringy stonecrop.
Where Should You Relocate Your Stringy Stonecrop?
When transplanting stringy stonecrop, select a location with full sun to partial shade exposure. These plants are adaptable, flourishing in various lighting conditions. Just make sure to provide enough sunlight for optimal growth and vibrant colors.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Stringy Stonecrop?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the soil and plant.
Shovel or Spade
To dig holes and trenches for transplanting.
Hand Trowel
For more precise digging and planting tasks.
Watering Can
To water the plant before and after transplanting.
Garden Secateurs or Pruners
To trim any damaged roots or foliage before transplanting.
Measuring Tape or Stick
To ensure the proper spacing between plants.
Organic Compost or Well-rotted Manure
To enhance the soil and help stringy stonecrop establish stronger root systems.
How Do You Remove Stringy Stonecrop from the Soil?
From Ground: First, water the stringy stonecrop plant to dampen the surrounding soil, which will make digging easier. Then, dig a spacious trench around the plant using a shovel or spade, being careful not to damage the root ball. Carefully work the spade under the root ball to lift the plant from its original location.
From Pot: Water the stringy stonecrop plant, then gently tip the pot to the side and tap it with a slight force to prevent the root ball from sticking to it. If necessary, use a hand trowel or your fingers to carefully loosen the soil around the edges of the pot, then carefully slide the plant out, ensuring that you handle it by the root ball and not the foliage.
From Seedling Tray: Water the seedlings to moisten the soil. Use a small hand trowel or a spoon to loosen the soil around the base of the stringy stonecrop seedling. Carefully lift the seedling out of the tray, holding it by the leaves and avoiding any damage to the delicate roots.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Stringy Stonecrop
Choosing the Right Time
Transplant stringy stonecrop during the cooler months of spring or autumn when the plant is not actively growing. Avoid transplanting during hot summer months or extreme cold conditions.
Preparation of New Location
Prepare the new planting location by removing any weeds, debris, or large stones. Dig a hole twice the size of stringy stonecrop's root ball using a shovel or spade.
Amending the Soil
Mix organic compost or well-rotted manure into the soil, reserving a part of it to fill in the hole around the plant later.
Lowering the Plant
Carefully lower the stringy stonecrop plant into the hole, ensuring its root ball is level with the surrounding soil.
Filling the Hole
Fill in the hole around the stringy stonecrop plant with the reserved soil mixed with compost or manure, pressing it gently but firmly to eliminate air pockets.
Watering
Water the stringy stonecrop plant thoroughly, allowing the water to soak into the soil so the plant can settle in its new location.
How Do You Care For Stringy Stonecrop After Transplanting?
Watering
Keep the soil around the stringy stonecrop consistently moist, but not soggy, during the first few weeks after transplanting to help establish strong roots. Once established, stringy stonecrop generally require little maintenance and can tolerate occasional drought.
Trimming
Prune stringy stonecrop in early spring to encourage compact growth and maintain its shape. If the plant becomes leggy or unruly, cut it back by up to one-third to promote bushier growth.
Pest Control
Regularly check the stringy stonecrop plant for pests, especially aphids and slugs. Treat any infestations promptly with organic or chemical control methods, as appropriate.
Winter Protection
If the stringy stonecrop is situated in an area with severe winter temperatures, provide some protection by applying a layer of mulch over the root zone.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Stringy Stonecrop Transplantation.
When is the optimal time to transplant stringy stonecrop?
The best period to relocate stringy stonecrop is from mid-summer to late summer. This timing ensures optimal growth.
What is the suggested distance between stringy stonecrop plants when transplanting?
For successful growth, maintain a distance of about 6-12 inches (15-30 cm) between stringy stonecrop plants.
My stringy stonecrop isn't thriving after being transplanted, any advice?
Stringy stonecrop prefers full sun but can tolerate partial shade. If struggling, it may require more light.
What if the leaves on my transplanted stringy stonecrop begin to shrivel?
This could be due to a lack of water. Ensure the soil is evenly moist but not waterlogged.
What kind of soil does stringy stonecrop prefer when transplanting?
Stringy stonecrop thrives in well-draining soil. If transplanting, use a combination of soil, peat, and sand.
Is there a special planting depth for stringy stonecrop when transplanting?
Plant stringy stonecrop to the same depth as it was in its original pot. Burial too deep might cause rotting.
What should I do if the transplanted stringy stonecrop starts losing color?
Stringy stonecrop may lose color due to insufficient sunlight exposure or water overuse. Correct these elements and monitor.
Why are the leaves from my stringy stonecrop falling off after being transplanted?
Overwatering might be the cause. Remember, stringy stonecrop needs its soil to dry between waterings to thrive. Adjust accordingly.
How should I water my stringy stonecrop after transplanting?
Water thoroughly after transplanting. Then, allow for the soil to dry completely before the next watering session.
Should I fertilize my stringy stonecrop after transplanting?
Stringy stonecrop does not require a lot of nutrients. You can feed it sparingly with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer.
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We use these cookies to collect information about how you use our site, monitor site performance, and improve our site performance, our services, and your experience.
Lifespan
1 Year
Marketing Cookies
Marketing cookies are used by advertising companies to serve ads that are relevant to your interests.
Cookie Name Source Purpose Lifespan
_fbp Facebook Pixel A conversion pixel tracking that we use for retargeting campaigns. Learn more here. 1 Year
_adj Adjust This cookie provides mobile analytics and attribution services that enable us to measure and analyze the effectiveness of marketing campaigns, certain events and actions within the Application. Learn more here. 1 Year
Cookie Name
_fbp
Source
Facebook Pixel
Purpose
A conversion pixel tracking that we use for retargeting campaigns. Learn more here.
Lifespan
1 Year

Cookie Name
_adj
Source
Adjust
Purpose
This cookie provides mobile analytics and attribution services that enable us to measure and analyze the effectiveness of marketing campaigns, certain events and actions within the Application. Learn more here.
Lifespan
1 Year
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