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White-Fleshed Pitahaya
White-Fleshed Pitahaya
White-Fleshed Pitahaya
Selenicereus undatus
Also known as : Dragon Fruit, Red Skin Dragon Fruit, Cinderella Plant, Moonlight Cactus, Strawberry Pear
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
10 to 12
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care guide

Care Guide for White-Fleshed Pitahaya

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Watering Care
Watering Care
Details on Watering Care Watering Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilizing Care
Details on Fertilizing Care Fertilizing Care
Soil Care
Soil Care
Slightly acidic
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
Ideal Lighting
Ideal Lighting
Full sun, Partial sun
Details on Sunlight Requirements Ideal Lighting
Ideal Temperature
Ideal Temperature
10 to 12
Details on Temperature Ideal Temperature
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White-Fleshed Pitahaya
Water
Water
Every 2 weeks
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
10 to 12
Planting Time
Planting Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Early summer, Late summer, Early fall, Mid fall
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Questions About White-Fleshed Pitahaya

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What is the best way to water my White-Fleshed Pitahaya?
It's important to know various ways to water the White-Fleshed Pitahaya. Some might ask whether they should do the watering from top to bottom, or is it the opposite? According to the experts, one of the best ways to water the cactus is to start from the bottom. This will ensure that there will be enough water to reach the root of the plants. If you're starting from the top, there will not be enough saturation. The water will trickle and evaporate, and only a small amount will reach its roots.
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What should I do if my White-Fleshed Pitahaya is underwatered?
Sometimes, you might notice that even if you water it frequently enough, it will start to dry out. When you see that the flowers are beginning to wilt and there's not enough water, the issue might be in the container where they are planted. Choose a bigger one if this is the case. Buy a pot that drains easily. You will need to mix it with the right potting soil and clean sand so it will absorb more water easier. The soil that is too wet will not go well with the roots. Since this species is an epiphyte, it won't be able to handle soggy roots since it absorbs water and nutrients from the air. It's best to ensure that there's proper drainage to prevent fungal infections. When you notice the cactus is limp, you can transfer or re-pot it into fresh earth. Gently remove the soil as much as possible and keep it evenly moist. Mist the cactus frequently whenever possible. After the flowers have finished blooming, you might want to cut back on watering until you see new buds appearing. When the soil dries too much, the buds will begin to drop, so you might want to add some water but not too much. Sometimes, underwatering, which is followed by overwatering that many owners do for compensation, is quite common. These cacti are considered to be succulents. The lack of water is not noticeable until everything is too late. They show that there are issues when they begin to droop and wither. The well-intentioned plant owner will give them massive amounts of water. This is where the roots become desiccated. They become so dry that they can't take in any excess water. It will result in waterlogged plants, and the remaining roots may rot. If you notice some signs of wilting or underwatering, you can try to bring the species back to life with regular and frequent watering. However, make sure that it won't be a deluge, so you'll give the cactus a chance to regenerate and recover its roots.
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How much water should I give my White-Fleshed Pitahaya?
The White-Fleshed Pitahaya must be properly watered to keep it healthy all year round. It should be potted in well-draining soil so it would produce beautiful blooms. The amount of water that the White-Fleshed Pitahaya needs can vary. When you see that about 1/3 of the topsoil is dry, this is the best time to water them. They are thirstier than the other succulents, so watering should take place about 1x every week. Use your fingers to check if the soil is about two inches dry. If you notice that the soil is very dry on the top layer, run the water until it goes through the drainage of the pots. There should be a tray underneath to catch the extra water. After about 10 to 15 minutes, discard everything, including the excess water. The soaking method should work well with the White-Fleshed Pitahaya but don't let it sit on the water-filled pot for a long time. When the species is in its flowering stage, it's highly recommended to water it sparingly. Ideally, the best time to water them is when you notice that the leaves begin to droop. Make sure to fill the saucer of the pots with pebbles. Add water to the pebbles to add humidity to your White-Fleshed Pitahaya. The best way to understand whether it's time to water the White-Fleshed Pitahaya is to check the soil. When it's too dry, simply add water and moisture. However, don't let the pot sit in the water, especially during the winter when the soil takes a long time to dry. This can cause root rot. Know that these species can react to various seasonal changes. Watering it the correct way will mean that you should consider the climate. If you live in a dry and hot climate, the plants will need more watering, which is about twice per week. If you live in a humid area, then watering only 1x a week can work well. You should water this less frequently in the fall and winter if you want the flowers to bloom. When the pots are exposed to too much sunlight, then the moisture will dry out faster. This is when the plant needs more watering. Watering should be less if it is in a cool or humid place.
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What will happen if I overwater my White-Fleshed Pitahaya?
Sometimes, you might overwater your White-Fleshed Pitahaya, which makes it look limp or wilted. When you've neglected it for too long, give it a little drink. Continue to provide it with water in a sparing way until you see that there's slight moisture in the soil. Overwatering can cause the development of a fungal infection called white rot. The leaves tend to droop, which might result in wilting. Like any other species, the cactus can't stand overwatering or underwatering. They don't tolerate dry soil since the flowers will start dropping at the same time, and this is something that you don't want to happen.
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Should I adjust the frequency of watering my White-Fleshed Pitahaya according to different seasons?
The cold months and the hot months are not the same. The temperatures tend to drop during the winter and fall, and the soil will take longer to dry. This is when you don't need to water the succulents often. These two seasons are also the best time for the White-Fleshed Pitahaya to show its beautiful blooms. Water sparingly to maintain the health of the plant. During the months of October, stop watering when there's too much water in the soil. Resume the care in November but keep the moisture light when the temperatures are still cool. When the blooms start to appear, stop watering for about a few weeks so the plants can rest from too much moisture. These are very delicate, so when you see new growth, you can resume the watering once a week if you need to.
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Should I water my White-Fleshed Pitahaya differently when I plant it indoors vs outdoors?
Your plant's location is something you need to consider when it comes to its watering needs. When the plant grows near the window or outdoors, the air might be too dry, and the temperatures are too high. This is where you should water the plant for about 2x a week. When it's growing indoors in a humid and cool environment, it will definitely need less watering. Indirect sunlight will also have an impact since the soil does not tend to dry out faster. This is where the succulent will just be fine with once-a-week watering. However, you still need to check the soil with a moisture meter to know what it needs.
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Key Facts About White-Fleshed Pitahaya

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Attributes of White-Fleshed Pitahaya

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Succulent, Vine
Planting Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Early summer, Late summer, Early fall, Mid fall
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃
Growth Season
Summer, Fall
Growth Rate
Moderate

Scientific Classification of White-Fleshed Pitahaya

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Common Pests & Diseases About White-Fleshed Pitahaya

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Scars
Scars Scars
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Stem rot
Stem rot Stem rot
Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do. Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible. Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots. Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized. Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium. Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water. For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
Aphids
Aphids Aphids
Aphids
Aphids are small, pear-shaped insects that come in a variety of semi-translucent colors. They suck sap from plants.
Solutions: Aphids can be controlled with physical, biological, and chemical methods. For less severe cases: Dip a cloth in soap water and use it to wipe/rub off all the aphids from plants. Use a hose with a good stream of water to spray them off. Introduce beneficial insects such as ladybugs and lacewings. For severe cases: Spray plants with a diluted mix of neem oil and insecticidal soap (follow label instructions). Apply in the evening or on a cloudy day to avoid burning plants. Remove and dispose of infected plants or plant parts. Surrounding plants should also be treated to fully control the problem.
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Root deformity
Root deformity Root deformity
Root deformity
Root deformities can have a variety of causes
Solutions: There are a few key steps to take if root deformity is suspected: Prevent the spread of fungal diseases - if a fungal pathogen is to blame for the root deformity, there’s not much to do once it sets into the soil. Prevent it from spreading by applying a fungicide or adjusting the soil pH based on what is needed for the specific type of plant. Do not re-use this soil for future plantings. Harvest selectively - for root vegetables like carrots or parsnips, the tubers may still be usable. Cull some of the crop or cut away affected areas, but the rest should still be safe to eat.
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Scars
plant poor
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Stem rot
plant poor
Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Overview
Stem rot is a serious disease and can affect many different types of plants. it can be particularly prevalent when the temperature of the soil is over 16 ℃ and there's a lot of moisture in the soil. This could be from unusually heavy rainfalls or too much irrigation. Once stem rot sets in, it's very difficult to get rid of the disease and most affected plants will have to be discarded. This is especially the case for vegetables, herbs, and other herbaceous plants that have soft stems. This is why it's important to ensure that the soil used for growing these plants is well-drained and that overwatering is avoided. Using good cultural practices also help in curbing these types of fungal diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Plants that have been affected by stem rot will first display a yellowing of the lower leaves. This is followed by obvious wilting and stunted growth.
If the stem of the affected plant is examined closely, there will be some dark discolorations starting near the base and moving upward. If the roots of affected plants are examined, they will appear dark and mushy instead of white and healthy-looking. Eventually, the entire plant will wilt and die.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Stem rot is caused by a variety of soil-borne fungus pathogens. The type of fungus depends on the species of plant that is affected. Two fungi responsible for stem rot are Rhizoctonia and Fusarium. These fungal pathogens live in soil and migrate to the plant when conditions are optimum. This includes warm, humid weather and excessive soil moisture. Commonly, vegetable seedlings are affected by these fungi.
Sclerotinia sclerotiorum is another fungus that causes stem rot in plants. This fungus has a host range of over 350 different species of plants. Plants most susceptible to this fungus include many vegetable varieties such as cucumbers, beans, cilantro, carrots, cabbage, melons, lettuce, peas, onions, tomatoes, pumpkins, and squash. This fungus can produce different symptoms in different species. In some cases, the fungus causes irregular spots on stems and other plant material that appear water-soaked. On other plant species, the fungus appears as dry lesions that grow and girdle the stem of the plant.
The third type of fungus that causes stem rot is Phytophthora capsici. Plants that belong to the cucumber family are most susceptible to this fungal infection. This fungus manifests as water-soaked lesions on the stems that then turn brown and girdle the stem.
All of these fungal pathogens are transmitted to the plant by water splashing from the soil up onto the plant. That's because the fungal spores live in the soil where they wait for the right conditions to infect the plants.
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Aphids
plant poor
Aphids
Aphids are small, pear-shaped insects that come in a variety of semi-translucent colors. They suck sap from plants.
Overview
Overview
Aphids, also known as plant lice, can appear on almost any garden plant. These pests are tear-drop shaped, soft-bodied, and 3 mm or less in size.
Aphids can occur in all seasons, but they reproduce more quickly in warmer weather. Therefore, infestations are likely to become severe in late spring through early fall.
These pests feed on plants including trees, shrubs, vegetables, and flowers. While aphids feed on a large variety of plants, small plants are most susceptible to extreme damage. Aphids are more likely to occur on plants that are unhealthy due to insufficient light, nutrients, or watering problems, plants that have been excessively fertilized with nitrogens, and those that are in shock from pruning or transplanting.
Aphids are easy to control if they are caught early. If not treated early on, populations can quickly grow and cause major damage. In severe cases, entire plants may die.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Aphids are often seen before they have had a chance to do a lot of damage. These insects can be found in clusters under the leaves or on stems. They may be green, brown, white, yellow, or white.
Aphids secrete a sugary substance on plants known as "honeydew." While it is not harmful to the plant, it may be a telltale sign that these pests are present, and if left on the plant it can cause a black fungus known as sooty mold to take hold.
Aphids damage appears as many small dots known as stippling. If the pests are not removed, leaves may turn yellow or die. Leaves and stems may also become twisted.
A large number of ants in the area may also indicate an aphids problem. Ants take care of aphids in order to eat the honeydew that they secrete.
Solutions
Solutions
Aphids can be controlled with physical, biological, and chemical methods.
For less severe cases:
  • Dip a cloth in soap water and use it to wipe/rub off all the aphids from plants.
  • Use a hose with a good stream of water to spray them off.
  • Introduce beneficial insects such as ladybugs and lacewings.
For severe cases:
  • Spray plants with a diluted mix of neem oil and insecticidal soap (follow label instructions). Apply in the evening or on a cloudy day to avoid burning plants.
  • Remove and dispose of infected plants or plant parts.
Surrounding plants should also be treated to fully control the problem.
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Underwatering
plant poor
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
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Root deformity
plant poor
Root deformity
Root deformities can have a variety of causes
Overview
Overview
Although root deformity is a problem that can occur with just about any type of plant, it tends to be more noticeable in root crops such as carrots, parsnips, or potatoes. In any plant, it is important to address root deformity in its early stages so that they are able to grow to their fullest potential.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
There are countless symptoms of root deformity and associated root problems in plants. In fact, these symptoms often co-occur with dozens of others, making it hard to tell which disease, pest, or environmental condition is responsible for a given plant’s suffering and failure to thrive.
Some of the most common symptoms you will see in plants with root deformity problems are:
  • Roots that are misshapen, rotten, or stunted
  • Roots that become brown and mushy as areas begin to die back
  • Stunted growth
  • Wilted or yellowing leaves
  • Premature leaf drop
  • Delayed blooming
Root deformity is not a disease that occurs on its own but is instead a symptom of many other common plant problems. Because of that, it is exceedingly important to examine all the issues to figure out what is going wrong.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are several reasons why plants may develop malformed roots.
One of the most common is related to the environment. Environmental conditions related to moisture, soil structure, and nutrient load can commonly cause issues with root formation.
Not all soils are conducive to creating healthy roots. Roots need room to grow, spread, and breathe. When plants are grown in soil that is rocky or composed of heavy clay, it does not give them the opportunity to do so. Roots that do most of the “storage work” for plants, such as those of beets, kohlrabi, potatoes, carrots, turnips, and so on, are most likely to suffer from this cause.
There are various plant diseases that can cause plant roots to become malformed. These are generally plant- and species-specific but can include diseases such as root rot. Clubroot is another disease that typically affects plants in the mustard family, such as cabbage, broccoli, and Brussels sprouts.
There are even pests, such as root-knot nematodes, that can cause root damage, malformation, and death in a long list of plant species.
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distribution

Distribution of White-Fleshed Pitahaya

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Distribution Map of White-Fleshed Pitahaya

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Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on White-fleshed Pitahaya Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
Transplant
3-6 feet
The prime time for relocating white-Fleshed Pitahaya is the cusp of late spring into early summer, offering optimal growing conditions. Choose a bright, sheltered spot, and if you must, ensure soil is rich and well-draining to encourage seamless acclimation.
Transplant Techniques
Temperature
5 - 43 ℃
White-Fleshed Pitahaya thrives in a native habitat that experiences temperatures from 68 to 100 °F (20 to 38 ℃). Seasonal adjustments aren't typically needed as long as temperatures remain within this range.
Temp for Healthy Growth
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White-Fleshed Pitahaya
White-Fleshed Pitahaya
White-Fleshed Pitahaya
Selenicereus undatus
Also known as: Dragon Fruit, Red Skin Dragon Fruit, Cinderella Plant, Moonlight Cactus, Strawberry Pear
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
10 to 12
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Care Guide for White-Fleshed Pitahaya

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Questions About White-Fleshed Pitahaya

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Watering Watering Watering
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my White-Fleshed Pitahaya?
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What should I do if my White-Fleshed Pitahaya is underwatered?
more
How much water should I give my White-Fleshed Pitahaya?
more
What will happen if I overwater my White-Fleshed Pitahaya?
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Should I adjust the frequency of watering my White-Fleshed Pitahaya according to different seasons?
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Should I water my White-Fleshed Pitahaya differently when I plant it indoors vs outdoors?
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Key Facts About White-Fleshed Pitahaya

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Attributes of White-Fleshed Pitahaya

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Succulent, Vine
Planting Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Early summer, Late summer, Early fall, Mid fall
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃
Growth Season
Summer, Fall
Growth Rate
Moderate
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Scientific Classification of White-Fleshed Pitahaya

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Common Pests & Diseases About White-Fleshed Pitahaya

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Scars
Scars Scars Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Learn More About the Scars more
Stem rot
Stem rot Stem rot Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do. Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible. Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots. Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized. Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium. Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water. For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
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Aphids
Aphids Aphids Aphids
Aphids are small, pear-shaped insects that come in a variety of semi-translucent colors. They suck sap from plants.
Solutions: Aphids can be controlled with physical, biological, and chemical methods. For less severe cases: Dip a cloth in soap water and use it to wipe/rub off all the aphids from plants. Use a hose with a good stream of water to spray them off. Introduce beneficial insects such as ladybugs and lacewings. For severe cases: Spray plants with a diluted mix of neem oil and insecticidal soap (follow label instructions). Apply in the evening or on a cloudy day to avoid burning plants. Remove and dispose of infected plants or plant parts. Surrounding plants should also be treated to fully control the problem.
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Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
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Root deformity
Root deformity Root deformity Root deformity
Root deformities can have a variety of causes
Solutions: There are a few key steps to take if root deformity is suspected: Prevent the spread of fungal diseases - if a fungal pathogen is to blame for the root deformity, there’s not much to do once it sets into the soil. Prevent it from spreading by applying a fungicide or adjusting the soil pH based on what is needed for the specific type of plant. Do not re-use this soil for future plantings. Harvest selectively - for root vegetables like carrots or parsnips, the tubers may still be usable. Cull some of the crop or cut away affected areas, but the rest should still be safe to eat.
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Scars
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Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Stem rot
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Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Overview
Stem rot is a serious disease and can affect many different types of plants. it can be particularly prevalent when the temperature of the soil is over 16 ℃ and there's a lot of moisture in the soil. This could be from unusually heavy rainfalls or too much irrigation. Once stem rot sets in, it's very difficult to get rid of the disease and most affected plants will have to be discarded. This is especially the case for vegetables, herbs, and other herbaceous plants that have soft stems. This is why it's important to ensure that the soil used for growing these plants is well-drained and that overwatering is avoided. Using good cultural practices also help in curbing these types of fungal diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Plants that have been affected by stem rot will first display a yellowing of the lower leaves. This is followed by obvious wilting and stunted growth.
If the stem of the affected plant is examined closely, there will be some dark discolorations starting near the base and moving upward. If the roots of affected plants are examined, they will appear dark and mushy instead of white and healthy-looking. Eventually, the entire plant will wilt and die.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Stem rot is caused by a variety of soil-borne fungus pathogens. The type of fungus depends on the species of plant that is affected. Two fungi responsible for stem rot are Rhizoctonia and Fusarium. These fungal pathogens live in soil and migrate to the plant when conditions are optimum. This includes warm, humid weather and excessive soil moisture. Commonly, vegetable seedlings are affected by these fungi.
Sclerotinia sclerotiorum is another fungus that causes stem rot in plants. This fungus has a host range of over 350 different species of plants. Plants most susceptible to this fungus include many vegetable varieties such as cucumbers, beans, cilantro, carrots, cabbage, melons, lettuce, peas, onions, tomatoes, pumpkins, and squash. This fungus can produce different symptoms in different species. In some cases, the fungus causes irregular spots on stems and other plant material that appear water-soaked. On other plant species, the fungus appears as dry lesions that grow and girdle the stem of the plant.
The third type of fungus that causes stem rot is Phytophthora capsici. Plants that belong to the cucumber family are most susceptible to this fungal infection. This fungus manifests as water-soaked lesions on the stems that then turn brown and girdle the stem.
All of these fungal pathogens are transmitted to the plant by water splashing from the soil up onto the plant. That's because the fungal spores live in the soil where they wait for the right conditions to infect the plants.
Solutions
Solutions
If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do.
  1. Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible.
  2. Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots.
  3. Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized.
  4. Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium.
  5. Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water.
For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
Prevention
Prevention
For outdoor gardens:
  1. Raking the garden thoroughly in the springtime will help to cut down on pathogens that may be living in the soil.
  2. Using a copper fungicide on plants in the springtime will cut down on fungal growth and prevent the spread of infection.
  3. Placing a heavy layer of mulch on top of the soil will also prevent pathogens from splashing up onto the stems of plants.
  4. Place plants at the recommended spacing to encourage better air flow between them.
  5. Water plants at the base instead of overhead to prevent excessive moisture on foliage.
For indoor plants:
  1. Avoid overwatering houseplants and ensure the roots do not sit in water.
  2. Make sure that indoor plants receive adequate air circulation and light.
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Aphids
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Aphids
Aphids are small, pear-shaped insects that come in a variety of semi-translucent colors. They suck sap from plants.
Overview
Overview
Aphids, also known as plant lice, can appear on almost any garden plant. These pests are tear-drop shaped, soft-bodied, and 3 mm or less in size.
Aphids can occur in all seasons, but they reproduce more quickly in warmer weather. Therefore, infestations are likely to become severe in late spring through early fall.
These pests feed on plants including trees, shrubs, vegetables, and flowers. While aphids feed on a large variety of plants, small plants are most susceptible to extreme damage. Aphids are more likely to occur on plants that are unhealthy due to insufficient light, nutrients, or watering problems, plants that have been excessively fertilized with nitrogens, and those that are in shock from pruning or transplanting.
Aphids are easy to control if they are caught early. If not treated early on, populations can quickly grow and cause major damage. In severe cases, entire plants may die.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Aphids are often seen before they have had a chance to do a lot of damage. These insects can be found in clusters under the leaves or on stems. They may be green, brown, white, yellow, or white.
Aphids secrete a sugary substance on plants known as "honeydew." While it is not harmful to the plant, it may be a telltale sign that these pests are present, and if left on the plant it can cause a black fungus known as sooty mold to take hold.
Aphids damage appears as many small dots known as stippling. If the pests are not removed, leaves may turn yellow or die. Leaves and stems may also become twisted.
A large number of ants in the area may also indicate an aphids problem. Ants take care of aphids in order to eat the honeydew that they secrete.
Solutions
Solutions
Aphids can be controlled with physical, biological, and chemical methods.
For less severe cases:
  • Dip a cloth in soap water and use it to wipe/rub off all the aphids from plants.
  • Use a hose with a good stream of water to spray them off.
  • Introduce beneficial insects such as ladybugs and lacewings.
For severe cases:
  • Spray plants with a diluted mix of neem oil and insecticidal soap (follow label instructions). Apply in the evening or on a cloudy day to avoid burning plants.
  • Remove and dispose of infected plants or plant parts.
Surrounding plants should also be treated to fully control the problem.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention steps include the following:
  • Avoid buying and transplanting plants with any sign of aphids on them.
  • Keep gardens weeded and remove debris from around plants.
  • Plant a wide diversity of plants to provide food and habitat for beneficial insects that eat aphids. These insects include ladybeetles, lacewings, and minute pirate bugs.
  • Avoid using broad-spectrum pesticides that can kill beneficial insects that eat aphids.
  • Release beneficial insects such as ladybugs and lacewings to prevent large aphids outbreaks.
  • Regularly check for aphids and remove them when they first appear. This is especially important in enclosed areas like greenhouses.
  • Apply a balanced fertilizer in the recommended amount to avoid over-fertilizing.
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Underwatering
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
  • Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
  • Avoid warm temperatures
  • Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
  • Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Root deformity
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Root deformity
Root deformities can have a variety of causes
Overview
Overview
Although root deformity is a problem that can occur with just about any type of plant, it tends to be more noticeable in root crops such as carrots, parsnips, or potatoes. In any plant, it is important to address root deformity in its early stages so that they are able to grow to their fullest potential.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
There are countless symptoms of root deformity and associated root problems in plants. In fact, these symptoms often co-occur with dozens of others, making it hard to tell which disease, pest, or environmental condition is responsible for a given plant’s suffering and failure to thrive.
Some of the most common symptoms you will see in plants with root deformity problems are:
  • Roots that are misshapen, rotten, or stunted
  • Roots that become brown and mushy as areas begin to die back
  • Stunted growth
  • Wilted or yellowing leaves
  • Premature leaf drop
  • Delayed blooming
Root deformity is not a disease that occurs on its own but is instead a symptom of many other common plant problems. Because of that, it is exceedingly important to examine all the issues to figure out what is going wrong.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are several reasons why plants may develop malformed roots.
One of the most common is related to the environment. Environmental conditions related to moisture, soil structure, and nutrient load can commonly cause issues with root formation.
Not all soils are conducive to creating healthy roots. Roots need room to grow, spread, and breathe. When plants are grown in soil that is rocky or composed of heavy clay, it does not give them the opportunity to do so. Roots that do most of the “storage work” for plants, such as those of beets, kohlrabi, potatoes, carrots, turnips, and so on, are most likely to suffer from this cause.
There are various plant diseases that can cause plant roots to become malformed. These are generally plant- and species-specific but can include diseases such as root rot. Clubroot is another disease that typically affects plants in the mustard family, such as cabbage, broccoli, and Brussels sprouts.
There are even pests, such as root-knot nematodes, that can cause root damage, malformation, and death in a long list of plant species.
Solutions
Solutions
There are a few key steps to take if root deformity is suspected:
  • Prevent the spread of fungal diseases - if a fungal pathogen is to blame for the root deformity, there’s not much to do once it sets into the soil. Prevent it from spreading by applying a fungicide or adjusting the soil pH based on what is needed for the specific type of plant. Do not re-use this soil for future plantings.
  • Harvest selectively - for root vegetables like carrots or parsnips, the tubers may still be usable. Cull some of the crop or cut away affected areas, but the rest should still be safe to eat.
Prevention
Prevention
There are several steps for preventing root deformity from impacting your plants;
  • Address spacing issues - one of the most common reasons for root deformity is plants that are growing too close together. Space plants according to the recommendations listed on the seed packet or in the planting guidelines.
  • Thin plants - some plants benefit from thinning after they have germinated. Consult the planting guidelines for each species, but know that removing all but the healthiest seedlings can provide them with the space they need to grow.
  • Improve soil quality - rocky and compacted soils can cause root deformity. Aerate the soil prior to planting and remove as many rocky or clay-dominated areas as possible.
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distribution

Distribution of White-Fleshed Pitahaya

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Distribution Map of White-Fleshed Pitahaya

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No species reported
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More Info on White-fleshed Pitahaya Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
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Temperature
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Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
White-Fleshed Pitahaya thrives in a native habitat that experiences temperatures from 68 to 100 °F (20 to 38 ℃). Seasonal adjustments aren't typically needed as long as temperatures remain within this range.
Regional wintering strategies
White-Fleshed Pitahaya is a heat-loving plant that gradually stops growing and enters a dormant state during the winter. When the outdoor temperature drops below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it should be moved indoors for cultivation. Choose a location near a south-facing window to provide as much sunlight as possible. If there is insufficient natural light, supplemental lighting can be used. When the temperature falls below {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}, the plant's growth slows down, and watering should be reduced or stopped to prevent root rot. For White-Fleshed Pitahaya grown outdoors, watering should be completely halted during low temperatures. If feasible, you can set up a temporary greenhouse for insulation or use materials such as plastic film or fabric to wrap the plant during cold temperatures.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in White-Fleshed Pitahaya
White-Fleshed Pitahaya thrives in high temperatures and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It grows best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the plant may become weak, wilt, and be prone to root rot. In cases of mild frost damage, there may not be any initial symptoms, but after a week, the plant will gradually wither.
Solutions
Trim off the frostbitten areas, paying attention to whether the roots have rotted. If the roots have rotted, they need to be cut off, and the plant can be propagated through cuttings. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment and place the plant near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. If there is insufficient light, you can use supplemental lighting.
Symptoms of High Temperature in White-Fleshed Pitahaya
During summer, White-Fleshed Pitahaya should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant's growth will cease, it will experience water loss, wilting, and becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Remove the sunburned and rotten parts. Shield the plant from afternoon sunlight until it recovers and starts growing again. For plants with root rot, stop watering until new roots begin to emerge.
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