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Hens and chicks
Hens and chicks
Hens and chicks
Sempervivum 'Stansfieldii'
Each hens and chicks leaf has dense little tomenta around its margin. When light is sufficient, the leaves wrap up tightly, like a beautiful lotus flower. With the right temperatures, the surface of each leaf turns a bright crimson. The hens and chicks is sensitive to high temperatures and goes into dormancy in the heat. It requires a shaded, dry, and well-ventilated environment to survive the summer season.
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
care guide

Care Guide for Hens and chicks

Watering Care
Watering Care
Drought-tolerant. Allow the soil to dry completely between watering.
Details on Watering Care Watering Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilization once a month during the growing season.
Details on Fertilizing Care Fertilizing Care
Pruning
Pruning
Deadhead (or remove) withered flowers after flowering.
Details on Pruning Pruning
Soil Care
Soil Care
Loam
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
Ideal Lighting
Ideal Lighting
Full sun, Partial sun
Details on Sunlight Requirements Ideal Lighting
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Hens and chicks
Water
Water
Every 3 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
question

Questions About Hens and chicks

Watering Watering Watering
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What should I do if I water my Hens and chicks too much or too little?
Underwatered Hens and chicks
Hens and chicks and other succulents can endure long periods without water, so it’s unusual to find one of these suffering from underwatering. But, if you somehow forgot about your plant and neglected to water it for a month or more, you’ll probably find your Hens and chicks looking thirsty or with some damage from lack of watering.
It is very easy to identify an underwatered Hens and chicks. Plant look lacklustre and wrinkled. Some may have dried up completely, turned brown and crispy, or dropped off the plant. And of course, the soil will be completely dried out.
If your Hens and chicks is thirsty and underwatered, give it plenty of water as soon as possible. Submerging the pot entirely in water for about 5-10 minutes is a good way to make sure the soil and plant are rehydrated properly. When you feel a sense of moisture on the surface of the soil with your finger, it means the watering is done properly.
Overwatered Hens and chicks
Overwatering is dangerous to Hens and chicks and can be fatal to your plant if you don’t remedy the situation. Too much moisture over time leads to root rot, which prevents the roots from being able to absorb nutrients and water from the soil. Root rot occurs when wet conditions allow fungi and bacteria to flourish in the soil and feed on roots. When you find that it's overwatered, you'd better change the growing conditions, place it somewhere with more air ventilation and adjust water frequency, for example.
The symptoms of overwatering are yellow, swollen, and translucent organs that may even burst open from being over-full with water. If the problem continues without being treated, plant might turn brown or black, and fall off the plant at the slightest touch. Be sure to check the soil to determine if overwatering is the culprit, as some other issues can cause similar symptoms.
It’s a bit difficult (but not impossible) to save an overwatered plant. The key is catching it early before a lot of damage has occurred. If the roots become rotten, it is likely to kill the entire plant. If you suspect you have overwatered your Hens and chicks, the first step is to remove it from its pot and check the roots and soil.
After removing the plant from its pot, gently remove wet soil from around the roots and then rinse them clean in room-temperature water. This helps with removing fungus that might be lurking in the soil and allows you to get a better sense of how healthy the roots are. If your plant has already developed root rot, you will see roots that are dark brown or black, soft, mushy, or slimy.
If the majority of the roots are already affected by root rot, it may not be possible to save the plant. In this case, it is best to remove any healthy stem and try to use these to propagate a new Hens and chicks. If, on the other hand, only a portion of the roots have succumbed to rot and other healthy roots still remain, there is a chance it can be saved.
Use a sterilized cutting tool to remove any unhealthy-looking roots. Once you're left with only the firm, pale roots, it’s a good idea to dip them in a fungicide to kill off any remaining spores. After that you can repot your Hens and chicks in fresh, free-draining potting soil. While this does not always work to save a succulent with root rot, in most cases this plant will be able to make a full recovery and will put out new growth starting in the next growing season.
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How often should I water my Hens and chicks?
There’s not a hard-and-fast rule for how often to water Hens and chicks. The best way to determine this is to check the soil and only water when it’s bone dry. You can either stick your finger in the pot or use a moisture meter to check the soil below the surface. When you plant it in a deep pot, you can do this with a stick or chopstick. If it feels even a little bit moist, wait a few days and check it again.
Most people will need to water Hens and chicks about every two weeks in summer and once a month in winter, but there are several factors that can change the frequency. The section below lists some considerations that can help you to determine how often to water.
Read More more
What should I consider when watering my Hens and chicks?
There are several environmental conditions that will affect how your Hens and chicks needs to be watered, including the container size, soil type, temperature, and humidity.
First off, the container and soil you use will determine how often to water and how much water to use each time. Be sure you use a container with plenty of drainage holes in the bottom so extra water can escape the pot. A small container has less room for soil, meaning it won’t hold as much moisture, while a larger pot will stay wet longer and need to be watered less often. It’s important not to keep your Hens and chicks in an oversized pot as this can easily lead to overwatering. When repotting, move to just one size larger than the current container. A shallow container works better than a deep one, since Hens and chicks has shallow root systems.
Hens and chicks will need to be watered less often in winter and more often in the active growing season in spring and autumn. During the winter, growth slows down considerably and the plant isn’t using much energy or water. There is less water lost to evaporation in cooler winter air, meaning that soil stays wet for much longer than it would in the summer.
This also applies to the general climate around your home. If you live in a humid location with a lot of rain, you will need to water less often than if you live in a dry, arid climate. Remember that conditions at the same geographic location can vary significantly with the season and the use of indoor heating and air conditioning.
Outdoor Planting
If Hens and chicks is planted in the ground, after establishing a root system, it shouldn’t need supplemental water beyond what it receives through precipitation and dew. But if there is a long dry period, you may want to water occasionally. In other areas where Hens and chicks can only be grown in a container, this plant can be moved outside in the spring and summer when the temperature is proper and then brought back inside when temperatures start to drop. A potted Hens and chicks kept outside usually needs more water than the same plant kept indoors, because there is a lot more sun exposure even on a shaded porch.
Read More more
How to water Hens and chicks?
The best way to water Hens and chicks is to soak it thoroughly and then allow it to dry out before it gets watered again. Since this plant is somewhat drought tolerant, you can let it get quite dry before watering again. It is always better to give this type of plant too little water over too much.
When you water, make sure the soil gets thoroughly soaked throughout the whole pot. Don’t pour the water in just one spot, but rather try to go around the whole rim of the planter to be sure that it has a chance to get wet on all sides of the plant. The correct amount of water will depend on the size of your container and how much water your soil absorbs. Give your Hens and chicks enough water that it drains out from the drainage holes and then (ideally) leave the drained water in the saucer for about 20-30 minutes to absorb into dry pockets of soil. After that, discard any excess water that’s still in the saucer to avoid the soil getting waterlogged.
Bottom-watering is also an excellent method for Hens and chicks, as you can be sure that the soil gets thoroughly moistened. This process involves placing the pot into a saucer of water and allowing the soil to absorb moisture through the drainage holes. You will know that the soil has absorbed enough water when the top layer is moist. This takes a bit more time than top-watering, but is almost foolproof in getting an even distribution of water throughout the pot.
The original habitat of Hens and chicks is relatively dry with little rain, but when it rains, the soil will be thoroughly moistened. So you can mimic this situation by bottom-watering your plant when the soil is totally dry. Deep soil bathing is better than frequent light watering for Hens and chicks.
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Key Facts About Hens and chicks

Attributes of Hens and chicks

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Succulent, Herb
Bloom Time
Summer, Fall
Plant Height
5 cm to 8 cm
Spread
30 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Color
Pink
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
5 - 35 ℃

Scientific Classification of Hens and chicks

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Common Pests & Diseases About Hens and chicks

Common issues for Hens and chicks based on 10 million real cases
Low light
Low light Low light
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Flower withering
Flower withering Flower withering
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
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Low light
plant poor
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
  1. Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
  2. There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
  3. All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
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Flower withering
plant poor
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
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Leaf rot
plant poor
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
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More Info on Hens And Chicks Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
Hens and chicks thrives in areas where it's constantly bathed in sunlight for the better part of the day. When in less-lit spaces, it still manages to survive. The original environment of hens and chicks is open ground with unobstructed sun exposure. Influenced by sunlight, hens and chicks's growth is vigorous, with insufficient light leading to stunted growth and paler color, while overexposure can cause leaf scorch.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
-20 - 38 ℃
Originating from cool, semi-arid environments, hens and chicks requires temperatures around 41 to 95 °F (5 to 35 ℃). In winter, it can weather colder temperatures, but remember to bring it indoors when frost threatens. In the heat of summer, ensure it gets plenty of shade.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
4-6 inches
Perfect for hens and chicks transplanting, the early spring (S1-S3) ensures plants establish stable roots before summer heat arrives. Select a location with well-draining soil and ample sunlight. Be patient; hens and chicks grows slowly but surely. Feel free to divide and give them room to spread.
Transplant Techniques
Feng shui direction
Southwest
From a Feng Shui perspective, hens and chicks exhibits a favorable balance in the Southwest direction. With its succulent tendencies and unique radial symmetry, it embodies strong Earth energy. As Southwest corresponds to Earth in Bagua theory, these attributes harmoniously tune with this direction, fortifying stability and fostering positive resonances within one's space. Yet, how hens and chicks affects your energy may vary, since Feng Shui experiences can be highly personal.
Fengshui Details
other_plant

Plants Related to Hens and chicks

Lipstick plant
Lipstick plant
Lipstick plant (Aeschynanthus pulcher) is an evergreen perennial vine that will grow to 71 cm high. Often called the lipstick plant, its pointy, waxy leaves provide the perfect foliage while brilliant red blossoms emerge from a tubular-shaped bud to look like a tube of lipstick. It blooms from summer through winter with clusters of brilliant red trumpet-shaped flowers. Prefers partial shade in humus-rich, well-drained soil.
Paperplant
Paperplant
The paperplant, commonly grown as an ornamental and houseplant in warm temperate countries, has lustrous leaves with eight lobes resembling a hand. Because the sap from this plant might cause allergies in certain people, it must be handled with caution. This plant will occasionally produce black berries that birds will enjoy.
Plectranthus 'Cerveza 'n Lime'
Plectranthus 'Cerveza 'n Lime'
The entirety of plectranthus 'Cerveza 'n Lime' is covered in fine white tomenta. The plant emits a lovely smell that can linger on your fingers for a while after touching. Its leaves grow thick and compact in a sunlight-ample environment, but when light is insufficient, exhaustive growth will occur and its leaves will flatten. It can be cared for in the open in seasons with mild weather as long as it has proper shade to protect it from scorching sunlight.
Elephant's ear
Elephant's ear
Elephant's ear is an Australian member of the 'Elephant's Ear' family native to the tropical parts of the east coast. Growing to nearly 2 m tall, elephant's ear is a spectacular garden feature for tropical home gardens. Exercise caution, however, as the sap, berries, leaves, and roots are all toxic to mammals.
Surattense Nightshade
Surattense Nightshade
Surattense Nightshade (Solanum virginianum) is an herbaceous flowering plant species also known as Thorny nightshade or yellow-fruit nightshade. Surattense Nightshade is native to India and Nepal. Some parts of this species, like the fruit, are poisonous.
Fragrant virgin's bower
Fragrant virgin's bower
Fragrant virgin's bower is a woody climbing vine sprinkled with white fragrant flowers. It is often grown on fences and trellises, and if no support is given, it will climb on itself, creating dense masses of flowers and vines.
Cape jasmine
Cape jasmine
Gardenia jasminoides is an evergreen shrub with unique, glossy evergreen leaves and stunning flowers. The sophisticated, matte white flowers are often used in bouquets. The exceptional beauty of this ornamental plant has made it a popular and highly appreciated plant amongst gardeners and horticulturalists.
Golden pothos
Golden pothos
The golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular houseplant that is commonly seen in Australia, Asia, and the West Indies. It goes by many nicknames, including "devil's ivy", because it is so hard to kill and can even grow in low light conditions. Golden pothos has poisonous sap, so it should be kept away from pets and children.
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About
Care Guide
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Pests & Diseases
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Related Plants
Hens and chicks
Hens and chicks
Hens and chicks
Sempervivum 'Stansfieldii'
Each hens and chicks leaf has dense little tomenta around its margin. When light is sufficient, the leaves wrap up tightly, like a beautiful lotus flower. With the right temperatures, the surface of each leaf turns a bright crimson. The hens and chicks is sensitive to high temperatures and goes into dormancy in the heat. It requires a shaded, dry, and well-ventilated environment to survive the summer season.
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
question

Questions About Hens and chicks

Watering Watering Watering
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What should I do if I water my Hens and chicks too much or too little?
more
How often should I water my Hens and chicks?
more
What should I consider when watering my Hens and chicks?
more
How to water Hens and chicks?
more
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plant_info

Key Facts About Hens and chicks

Attributes of Hens and chicks

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Succulent, Herb
Bloom Time
Summer, Fall
Plant Height
5 cm to 8 cm
Spread
30 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Color
Pink
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
5 - 35 ℃
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Scientific Classification of Hens and chicks

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Hens and chicks

Common issues for Hens and chicks based on 10 million real cases
Low light
Low light Low light Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Learn More About the Low light more
Flower withering
Flower withering Flower withering Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Learn More About the Flower withering more
Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Learn More About the Leaf rot more
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close
Low light
plant poor
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
  1. Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
  2. There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
  3. All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
Solutions
Solutions
Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed.
  • Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn.
  • Introduce appropriate artificial lighting.
  • Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Prevention
Prevention
To avoid etiolation, provide an adequate amount of light from the beginning.
  1. Choose a location that matches each plant's ideal light needs. Many indoor plants do best in or near a south-facing window, which will provide the longest hours of sunlight. Flowering plants and those with colored leaves typically need more light than purely-green plants, as photosynthesis occurs in the green portions of leaves.
  2. Select plants with light needs that match a location's conditions. Some cultivars and varieties require less light than others.
  3. Use a grow light. Darker locations may require artificial illumination. A grow light may also become more necessary during winter, when sunlit hours are at their shortest.
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Flower withering
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
  • Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
  • Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
  • Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
  • Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
  • Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
  • Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Leaf rot
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
  2. Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
  3. Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
  4. Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
  5. Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
  6. Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
  7. Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
  8. Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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More Info on Hens And Chicks Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Plants Related to Hens and chicks

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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Hens and chicks thrives in areas where it's constantly bathed in sunlight for the better part of the day. When in less-lit spaces, it still manages to survive. The original environment of hens and chicks is open ground with unobstructed sun exposure. Influenced by sunlight, hens and chicks's growth is vigorous, with insufficient light leading to stunted growth and paler color, while overexposure can cause leaf scorch.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Hens and chicks is a beloved choice for indoor gardening, and they require strong light to thrive. However, when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting, they may develop symptoms of light deficiency.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Hens and chicks may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Hens and chicks enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Hens and chicks require strong light to thrive, and some are remarkably resilient to sun exposure, rarely suffering from sunburn.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Originating from cool, semi-arid environments, hens and chicks requires temperatures around 41 to 95 °F (5 to 35 ℃). In winter, it can weather colder temperatures, but remember to bring it indoors when frost threatens. In the heat of summer, ensure it gets plenty of shade.
Regional wintering strategies
Hens and chicks is a heat-loving plant that gradually stops growing and enters a dormant state during the winter. When the outdoor temperature drops below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it should be moved indoors for cultivation. Choose a location near a south-facing window to provide as much sunlight as possible. If there is insufficient natural light, supplemental lighting can be used. When the temperature falls below {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}, the plant's growth slows down, and watering should be reduced or stopped to prevent root rot. For Hens and chicks grown outdoors, watering should be completely halted during low temperatures. If feasible, you can set up a temporary greenhouse for insulation or use materials such as plastic film or fabric to wrap the plant during cold temperatures.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in %s
Hens and chicks thrives in high temperatures and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It grows best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the plant may become weak, wilt, and be prone to root rot. In cases of mild frost damage, there may not be any initial symptoms, but after a week, the plant will gradually wither.
Solutions
Trim off the frostbitten areas, paying attention to whether the roots have rotted. If the roots have rotted, they need to be cut off, and the plant can be propagated through cuttings. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment and place the plant near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. If there is insufficient light, you can use supplemental lighting.
Symptoms of High Temperature in %s
During summer, Hens and chicks should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant's growth will cease, it will experience water loss, wilting, and becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Remove the sunburned and rotten parts. Shield the plant from afternoon sunlight until it recovers and starts growing again. For plants with root rot, stop watering until new roots begin to emerge.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Hens And Chicks?
Perfect for hens and chicks transplanting, the early spring (S1-S3) ensures plants establish stable roots before summer heat arrives. Select a location with well-draining soil and ample sunlight. Be patient; hens and chicks grows slowly but surely. Feel free to divide and give them room to spread.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Hens And Chicks?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Hens And Chicks?
When it comes to hens and chicks, the prime time for relocation is in spring or early autumn. These moderate seasons provide just the right conditions ensuring proper root establishment before extreme temperature hits. You'd be setting the stage for a healthier, more robust plant that’s better able to resist pests and diseases!
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Hens And Chicks Plants?
Space each hens and chicks about 4-6 inches (10-15 cm) apart. This gives them space to grow without competing for resources. It's not necessary for them to have a lot of room, they're pretty resilient and adaptable.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Hens And Chicks Transplanting?
The best soil type for your hens and chicks is gritty, well-draining. Add a little compost or a slow-release granular fertilizer to the base to help it thrive. They're not picky about soil though, any decent garden soil should work fine.
Where Should You Relocate Your Hens And Chicks?
Pick a spot for your hens and chicks where it will get plenty of sunlight. These plants thrive on sun and won't do as well in shady areas. Partial shade might work, but full sun is better. Good luck with your transplanting!
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Hens And Chicks?
Gardening Gloves
To guard your hands from any harm that could be caused by sharp objects or certain insects in the soil.
Trowel
This small handheld tool with a flat, pointed blade is perfect for digging around the hens and chicks and uprooting it with minimal damage.
Shovel or Spade
If the hens and chicks is too large to handle with a trowel, use a shovel or spade.
Bucket
Use this to carry the hens and chicks from its original location to its new one.
Watering Can or Hose
Needed to hydrate the hens and chicks both before and after its relocation.
Mulch
Helps keep the hens and chicks warm and protect its roots post-transplant.
How Do You Remove Hens And Chicks from the Soil?
From Ground: Initially, water the hens and chicks to make the surrounding soil softer and easier to work with. Dig a circumference around the plant far enough that you won't disrupt the roots, using your trowel or shovel as needed. Gradually work your tool beneath the plant, carefully prying it from the earth. Make sure to keep as much of the root intact as possible. Once uprooted, place your hens and chicks gently in your bucket.
From Pot: If your hens and chicks is in a pot, begin by watering it well to soften the soil. Tip the pot sideways while gently pulling at the base of the hens and chicks. The aim is to slide the whole plant, soil and roots out in one piece. If the plant seems stuck, don't yank-tap the sides or bottom of the pot to loosen it.
From Seedling Tray: Using a spoon, scoop out individual hens and chicks seedlings from their cells, taking care to keep the delicate root system undisturbed. Transfer them onto a tray or into a bucket.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Hens And Chicks
Prepare the Spot
Begin with preparing a suitable hole for your hens and chicks in the ground that's twice the size of its root ball. This way the roots will have plenty of room to spread out and settle in.
Transfer the Plant
Next, gently place the hens and chicks into the hole. Align it so it's at the same level it was in its original location- neither too deep nor too high above the ground.
Backfill the Hole
Carefully backfill the hole, ensuring you don't damage the hens and chicks's roots in the process. Firm the soil gently around the plant to make sure it stands upright and to eliminate any air pockets.
Water Thoroughly
Water your newly transplanted hens and chicks immediately after planting. This helps to settle the soil around the roots and begin the establishment process.
Mulch
Finally, apply a layer of mulch around the hens and chicks, making sure not to pile it up against the stems. This will help insulate the roots from temperature extremes and reduce water loss.
How Do You Care For Hens And Chicks After Transplanting?
Watering
While the hens and chicks is getting established in its new location, you'll need to water it regularly to prevent the soil from drying out.
Checking
Regularly check the hens and chicks for any signs of stress or disease. Early detection of issues will result in a better chance of recovery.
Pruning
If you see any wilting or dead parts on the hens and chicks after transplanting, prune them. This will allow the plant to focus its energy on new growth.
Reducing Stress
To help limit transplant shock, keep your hens and chicks out of harsh sunlight for a week or so after the move.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Hens And Chicks Transplantation.
When is the best time to transplant hens and chicks?
Transplanting hens and chicks is best during the 'S1-S3' seasons (typically late winter to early summer). The cooler temperatures help minimize transplant shock.
What is the correct distance between hens and chicks when planting?
Ideally, each hens and chicks plant should be set around 4-6 inches (10-15 cm) apart. This gives them enough room to grow while also providing ground cover.
Why are the leaves of my hens and chicks turning yellow after transplanting?
Yellow leaves can indicate overwatering or poor drainage. Make sure your hens and chicks is not sitting in water and the soil is well-drained.
How deep should I bury hens and chicks when transplanting?
The root ball of hens and chicks should be fully covered, but the leaves should be left above ground. Overly deep can lead to stem rot.
Why does my transplanted hens and chicks look wilted?
Wilt can be a sign of transplant shock. Keep the soil moist, provide partial sunlight, and give it time to recover to overpass the condition.
How soon should I water hens and chicks after transplanting?
Water the hens and chicks right after transplanting to help settle the soil. However, keep the watering moderate to avoid waterlogged conditions.
What kind of soil does hens and chicks prefer when being transplanted?
Hens and chicks prefers a well-drained, sandy or gravel-rich soil. Too heavy or overly enriched soils can lead to water retention and rot.
How do I prepare the transplant area for hens and chicks?
Prepare the soil by adding gritty material like perlite or sand for drainage. Ensure the space between each plant is about 4-6 inches (10-15 cm).
Why isn’t my hens and chicks showing new growth after being transplanted?
Hens and chicks might be experiencing transplant shock, slowing its growth. Wait for a couple of weeks, keep the care optimal and observe.
Can I directly transplant hens and chicks into the ground during 'S1-S3' seasons?
Yes, hens and chicks can be transplanted directly as long as it’s during the 'S1-S3' seasons. Make sure the soil is well-drained and weather is not extremely hot or cold.
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