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Wild mustard
Sinapis arvensis
Also known as : Charlock mustard
Wild mustard is an annual or winter plant that is considered an invasive weed species in many areas. Leaves of juvenile plants are edible, and even though it may cause stomach upset was a food staple in Ireland during the potato famine in the 18th century.
Planting Time
Spring, Summer, Fall
Care Guide for Wild mustard
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Wild mustard
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
5 to 9
Planting Time
Spring, Summer, Fall
Questions About Wild mustard
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Watering 
Pruning 
Sunlight 
Temperature 
Fertilizing What is the best way to water my Wild mustard?
To water Wild mustard, you can use a garden hose with a spray nozzle, a watering can, or just about any other common watering tool. Generally, Wild mustard is not too picky about how they receive their water, as they can live off of rainwater, tap water, or filtered water. Often, you should try not to water this plant from overhead, as doing so can damage the leaves and flowers and may lead to disease as well. At times, the best method for watering this plant is to set up a drip irrigation system. These systems work well for Wild mustard as they apply water evenly and directly to the soil. For one Wild mustard that grows in a container, you can use a similar watering approach while changing the tools you use. To water a container-grown Wild mustard, use a cup, watering can, or your tap to apply water directly to the soil.
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What should I do if I water my Wild mustard too much or too little?
The remedy for underwatering Wild mustard is somewhat obvious. When you notice that your plant lacks moisture, simply begin watering it on a more regular basis. The issue of overwatering can be a much more dire situation, especially if you fail to notice it early. When your Wild mustard is overwatered, it may contract diseases that lead to its decline and death. The best way to prevent this outcome is to choose a proper growing location, one that receives plenty of sunlight to help dry the soil and has good enough drainage to allow excess water to drain rather than pooling and causing waterlogged soils. If you overwater your Wild mustard that lives in a pot, you may need to consider changing it to a new pot. Your previous container may not have contained soil with good drainage or may not have had sufficient drainage holes. As you repot your overwatered Wild mustard, make sure to add loose soils and to use a pot that drains efficiently.
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How often should I water my Wild mustard?
Wild mustard needs water regularly throughout the growing season. Beginning in spring, you should plan to water this plant about once per week. As the season presses on and grows warmer, you may need to increase your watering rate to about two to three times per week. Exceeding at this rate can be detrimental to your Wild mustard. With that said, you should also ensure that the soil in which your Wild mustard grows remains relatively moist but not wet, regardless of how often you must water to make that the case. Watering Wild mustard that lives in a pot is a bit different. Generally, you'll need to increase your watering frequency, as the soil in a pot can heat up and dry out a bit faster than ground soil. As such, you should plan to water a container-grown Wild mustard a few times per week in most cases, versus just once per week for an in-ground plant.
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How much water does my Wild mustard need?
There are a few different ways you can go about determining how much water to give to your Wild mustard. Some gardeners choose to pick their water volume based on feeling the soil for moisture. That method suggests that you should water until you feel that the first six inches of soil have become moist. Alternatively, you can use a set measurement to determine how much to water your Wild mustard. Typically, you should give your Wild mustard about two gallons of water per week, depending on how hot it is and how quickly the soil becomes dry. However, following strict guidelines like that can lead to overwatering if your plant requires less than two gallons per week for whatever reason. When growing Wild mustard in a container, you will need to use a different method to determine how much water to supply. Typically, you should give enough water to moisten all of the layers of soil that have become dry. To test if that is the case, you can simply stick your finger in the soil to feel for moisture. You can also water the soil until you notice a slight trickle of excess water exiting the drainage holes of your pot.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Wild mustard enough?
It can be somewhat difficult to avoid overwatering your Wild mustard. On the one hand, these plants have relatively deep roots that require you to moisten the soil weekly. On the other hand, Wild mustard are plants that are incredibly susceptible to root rot. Along with root rot, your Wild mustard may also experience browning as a result of overwatering. Underwatering is far less likely for your Wild mustard as these plants can survive for a while in the absence of supplemental watering. However, if you go too long without giving this plant water, it will likely begin to wilt. You may also notice dry leaves.
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How should I water my Wild mustard through the seasons?
You can expect your Wild mustard’s water needs to increase as the season moves on. During spring, you should water about once per week. Then, as the summer heat arrives, you will likely need to give a bit more water to your Wild mustard, at times increasing to about three times per week. This is especially true of Wild mustard that grow in containers, as the soil in a container is far more likely to dry out faster than ground soil when the weather is warm. In autumn, while your Wild mustard is still in bloom, it may need a bit less water as the temperature has likely declined, and the sun is no longer as strong as it was in summer.
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How should I water my Wild mustard at different growth stages?
Wild mustard will move through several different growth stages throughout the year, some of which may require more water than others. For example, you will probably start your Wild mustard as a seed. While the seed germinates, you should plant to give more water than your Wild mustard will need later in life, watering often enough to maintain consistent soil moisture. After a few weeks, your Wild mustard will grow above the soil and may need slightly less water than at the seedling phase. Then, once this plant is mature, you can begin to use the regular watering frequency of about once per week. As flower development takes place, you may need to give slightly more water to aid the process.
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What's the difference between watering Wild mustard indoors and outdoors?
There are several reasons why most Wild mustard grow outdoors rather than indoors. The first is that these plants typically grow to tall. The second reason is that Wild mustard needs more daily sunlight than most indoor growing locations can provide. If you are able to provide a suitable indoor growing location, you may find that you need to give your Wild mustard water a bit more often than you would in an outdoor growing location. Part of the reason for this is that indoor growing locations tend to be a lot drier than outdoor ones due to HVAC units. The other reason for this is that soil in containers can dry out relatively quickly as well compared to soil in the ground.
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Key Facts About Wild mustard
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Attributes of Wild mustard
Lifespan
Annual, Biennial
Plant Type
Herb
Planting Time
Spring, Summer, Fall
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer, Fall
Harvest Time
All year around
Plant Height
20 cm to 1 m
Spread
5 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
1.8 cm to 2.5 cm
Flower Color
Yellow
Fruit Color
Brown
Red
Black
Stem Color
Green
Red
Dormancy
Winter dormancy
Leaf type
Deciduous
Ideal Temperature
20 - 35 ℃
Growth Season
Spring, Summer, Fall
Name story
Wild mustard||Field mustard
The genus name Sinapis is derived from the Greek word "sinapi" meaning "mustard". As it is commonly grown in the wild, it is called wild mustard or field mustard.
Symbolism
I Am Hurt
Usages
Garden Use
The yellow flowers of wild mustard bloom from spring until fall, so you can use this plant to decorate your wildflower garden beds or borders for most of the year. This plant draws butterflies and birds to your garden, so it makes a wonderful addition to butterfly or wildlife gardens as well.
Trivia and Interesting Facts
Wild mustard is the common ancestor species that was selected by careful gardeners to create different types of vegetables. This agricultural process started 2,500 years ago in Central Europe when plant species with thicker leaves were selected for breeding and growth. These plant became kale and collard greens. Similarly, cabbages and brussels sprouts were created by selecting collard greens with large buds.
Scientific Classification of Wild mustard
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Common Pests & Diseases About Wild mustard
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Common issues for Wild mustard based on 10 million real cases
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Underwatering yellow
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.
Solutions: Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly. You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot. If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
- Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
- Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
- Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
- Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
- Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
- A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
- Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
- Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
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Underwatering yellow
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant’s leaves are turning yellow due to underwatering, the oldest leaves turn yellow first. Leaves yellow from the edges towards the middle. Other signs of underwatering include the soil feeling very dry or pulling away from the edge of its pot.
Solutions
Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly.
- You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot.
- If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.
Prevention
- When you get a new plant, research its specific watering needs. Set reminders so that you remember to water your plants consistently. Not all plants are the same, so make sure to differentiate all of your plants in your watering schedule.
- You may wish to purchase a commercial soil water meter which has a long probe that you place near your plant’s roots. Be sure to check it frequently and water your plant when the soil water meter indicates that it needs watering.
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Weed Control About Wild mustard
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Weeds
The wild mustard is an annual weed native to Mediterranean Europe. It has been widely distributed to Africa, Asia, and Europe. It has been recorded as invasive in thirty countries such as Australia, the United Kingdom, Russia, and Mexico. In the United States, it is regarded as an invasive weed in multiple states; it's considered a weed crop in grain fields and orchards in Oklahoma, Louisiana, Alabama, and North Carolina. As a member of the mustard family, wild mustard technically is edible. However, the seeds are toxic to livestock. If necessary, it can be controlled by exposure to herbicides.
How to Control it
Once the weeds start to flower and fructify, it will be difficult to control them effectively. In fact, the best time to remove weeds is before flowering and fructification because the seeds will spread rapidly after that. So, it is necessary to remove weeds more often and to take precautions in advance next year. Mulching: During the seed stage, covering with sawdust, straws or black mulches to effectively inhibit seed germination and the growth of the seedling. Generally, this method is used in winter or spring to inhibit the germination of weed in the soil. If the weeds have already flowered and fructified, this method can be used to isolate the seeds and the soil to prevent the seeds from falling into the soil. Pulling out: Before the weeds fructify, wear gloves or use tools to pull them out. If it is difficult to pull out weed due to dry soil, adding water to the soil helps to make it easy to remove the roots thoroughly. After pulling out the weed, deep tillage can be adopted to remove the residual roots. This method is especially effective for weeds that are in the seedling stage or low growing size. Pruning: Pruning weeds before they fructify can effectively control the propagation of weeds, especially for annual weeds. Frequent pruning can inhibit the growth and fructification of weeds and effectively them in the same year. Plowing: Before cultivation, plow the soil, collect and discard the roots of perennial weeds, then expose them to the sun or bury them deeply. It can also be used for retting organic fertilizer and composting. Chemical control: Using appropriate herbicides can effectively remove the weed from the area. Note: When removing weeds, it is necessary to wear gloves to avoid direct contact with the weeds, especially for the ones that are poisonous, thorny and allergenic. When removing weeds at the flowering stage, special masks should be worn to prevent allergic reactions caused by the inhalation of pollen.
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Distribution of Wild mustard
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Habitat of Wild mustard
Cultivated ground
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere
Distribution Map of Wild mustard
Wild mustard (Sinapis arvensis) is a very widespread species that originates in grasslands of North Africa, western Europe, and central Asia. It has been introduced throughout much of the rest of the world. The plant is an invasive species in many places, and six US states class it as such.
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info on Wild Mustard Growth and Care
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Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
Wild mustard flourishes in areas that receive ample light throughout the day, though it is capable of thriving in locations where sun exposure is lessened yet still present. This ensures a robust growth. However, exposure to weak light can limit its growth to some extent, while too much sun exposure could be harmful.
Best Sunlight Practices 
Transplant
1-2 feet
The ideal season for transplanting wild mustard is late spring to early summer (S2-S4), when temperatures heighten and daylight increases. This period fosters better growth. Wild mustard thrives in full sun, in well-drained soils. Remember, regular watering is integral, but don't let the soil get soggy.
Transplant Techniques 
Temperature
0 - 38 ℃
Wild mustard is native to temperate zones, preferring stable temperatures between 68 to 95 °F (20 to 35 ℃). This plant's optimal growth occurs within this range, thus seasonal temperature adjustments may be necessary to maintain these ideal conditions.
Temp for Healthy Growth 
Propagation
Spring
For wild mustard, propagation is ideally accomplished in Spring through sowing. Easily achieved, look for emerging seedlings as a sign of successful propagation. No specific tips are required for this plant's propagation process.
Propagation Techniques 
Feng shui direction
Southeast
The wild mustard exhibits a certain adaptability, suggesting a potential alignment with Southeast-facing positions. This association can be inferred from Feng Shui's principles of Wood energy, usually linked with the Southeast direction, which signifies growth and flexibility - qualities that wild mustard possesses. However, as Feng Shui is a personalized study, individual conditions may yield different results.
Fengshui Details Plants Related to Wild mustard
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Chinese crown orchid
The chinese crown orchid is a species of terrestrial orchid native to Asia. It has naturalized in many parts of the world, and in some places, like Florida, it is deemed invasive. Pollinators are drawn to the flowers, which contribute to the dispersion of dust-like seeds in the wind.
Common hollyhock
Common hollyhock (Alcea rosea) is a stalk-flowering plant known for its height and attractive flowers. It regularly reaches head height or beyond - from 1.5 to 2.5 m tall. The presence of common hollyhock in a garden can also attract butterflies and hummingbirds.
Java plum
Java plum (Syzygium cumini) is a plant species native to Asia and Australia. Java plum grows in moist, riverine habitats. This species is valued for its fruit and timber. Its fruit is consumed by animals including jackals and fruit bats. The fruits, called Jambolan fruits, are edible, have a sweet and acidic flavor, and can be made into sauces and jams.
Sacred fig
Sacred fig or Ficus religiosa, gets its name because it is considered sacred to Buddhism, Jainism, and Hinduism. Although a member of the mulberry family, the sap of the sacred fig may cause skin reactions if handled.
Yellow poinciana
The Peltophorum pterocarpum is a very popular ornamental tree that is grown in many countries across the globe. The yellow poinciana's wood is also used for making cabinets, while its foliage serves as a fodder crop. It produces yellow flowers which are used as the decorating flower in Telangana State's Batukamma festival.
Broom tea-tree
Broom tea-tree (Leptospermum scoparium) is an upright evergreen shrub that blooms with showy white, pink, or red flowers. The flowers eventually fall off and are replaced by seed capsules. Broom tea-tree wood is regularly used in tool handles and when burnt can imbue meat with a pleasant smoky flavor.
Poison ivy
In pop culture, poison ivy is a symbol of an obnoxious weed because, despite its unthreatening looks, it gives a highly unpleasant contact rash to the unfortunate person who touches it. Still, it is commonly eaten by many animals, and the seeds are a favorite with birds. The leaves turn bright red in fall. Its sister species, Western poison ivy (Toxicodendron rydbergii), is not considered to be invasive in the United States, but is noxious in Australia and New Zealand.
Pokeweed
Although its berries look juicy and tempting, the fruits and the root of pokeweed are toxic and should not be eaten. Pokeweed is considered a pest species by farmers but is nevertheless often grown as an ornamental plant. Its berries can be made into pokeberry ink as well.
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Wild mustard
Sinapis arvensis
Also known as: Charlock mustard
Wild mustard is an annual or winter plant that is considered an invasive weed species in many areas. Leaves of juvenile plants are edible, and even though it may cause stomach upset was a food staple in Ireland during the potato famine in the 18th century.
Planting Time
Spring, Summer, Fall
Care Guide for Wild mustard
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Soil Care
Sand, Loam, Clay, Chalky, Slightly alkaline
Ideal Lighting
Full sun, Partial sun
Ideal Temperature
5 to 9
Planting Time
Spring, Summer, Fall
Harvest Time
All year around
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Questions About Wild mustard
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Watering Pruning Sunlight Temperature Fertilizing What is the best way to water my Wild mustard?
What should I do if I water my Wild mustard too much or too little?
How often should I water my Wild mustard?
How much water does my Wild mustard need?
How can I tell if i'm watering my Wild mustard enough?
How should I water my Wild mustard through the seasons?
How should I water my Wild mustard at different growth stages?
What's the difference between watering Wild mustard indoors and outdoors?
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Keep your plants happy and healthy with our guide to watering, lighting, feeding and more.
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More Questions People Also Ask
Key Facts About Wild mustard
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Attributes of Wild mustard
Lifespan
Annual, Biennial
Plant Type
Herb
Planting Time
Spring, Summer, Fall
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer, Fall
Harvest Time
All year around
Plant Height
20 cm to 1 m
Spread
5 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
1.8 cm to 2.5 cm
Flower Color
Yellow
Fruit Color
Brown
Red
Black
Stem Color
Green
Red
Dormancy
Winter dormancy
Leaf type
Deciduous
Ideal Temperature
20 - 35 ℃
Growth Season
Spring, Summer, Fall
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Name story
Wild mustard||Field mustard
The genus name Sinapis is derived from the Greek word "sinapi" meaning "mustard". As it is commonly grown in the wild, it is called wild mustard or field mustard.
Symbolism
I Am Hurt
Usages
Garden Use
The yellow flowers of wild mustard bloom from spring until fall, so you can use this plant to decorate your wildflower garden beds or borders for most of the year. This plant draws butterflies and birds to your garden, so it makes a wonderful addition to butterfly or wildlife gardens as well.
Trivia and Interesting Facts
Wild mustard is the common ancestor species that was selected by careful gardeners to create different types of vegetables. This agricultural process started 2,500 years ago in Central Europe when plant species with thicker leaves were selected for breeding and growth. These plant became kale and collard greens. Similarly, cabbages and brussels sprouts were created by selecting collard greens with large buds.
Scientific Classification of Wild mustard
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Common Pests & Diseases About Wild mustard
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Common issues for Wild mustard based on 10 million real cases
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
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Underwatering yellow
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.
Solutions: Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly. You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot. If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
- Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
- Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
- Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
- Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
- Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
- Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
- Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
- Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
- Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
- A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
- Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
- Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
- Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
- Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
- Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
- Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
- Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
- Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
- Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
- Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Underwatering yellow
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant’s leaves are turning yellow due to underwatering, the oldest leaves turn yellow first. Leaves yellow from the edges towards the middle. Other signs of underwatering include the soil feeling very dry or pulling away from the edge of its pot.
Solutions
Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly.
- You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot.
- If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.
Prevention
- When you get a new plant, research its specific watering needs. Set reminders so that you remember to water your plants consistently. Not all plants are the same, so make sure to differentiate all of your plants in your watering schedule.
- You may wish to purchase a commercial soil water meter which has a long probe that you place near your plant’s roots. Be sure to check it frequently and water your plant when the soil water meter indicates that it needs watering.
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Weed Control About Wild mustard
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Weeds
The wild mustard is an annual weed native to Mediterranean Europe. It has been widely distributed to Africa, Asia, and Europe. It has been recorded as invasive in thirty countries such as Australia, the United Kingdom, Russia, and Mexico. In the United States, it is regarded as an invasive weed in multiple states; it's considered a weed crop in grain fields and orchards in Oklahoma, Louisiana, Alabama, and North Carolina. As a member of the mustard family, wild mustard technically is edible. However, the seeds are toxic to livestock. If necessary, it can be controlled by exposure to herbicides.
How to Control it
Once the weeds start to flower and fructify, it will be difficult to control them effectively. In fact, the best time to remove weeds is before flowering and fructification because the seeds will spread rapidly after that. So, it is necessary to remove weeds more often and to take precautions in advance next year. Mulching: During the seed stage, covering with sawdust, straws or black mulches to effectively inhibit seed germination and the growth of the seedling. Generally, this method is used in winter or spring to inhibit the germination of weed in the soil. If the weeds have already flowered and fructified, this method can be used to isolate the seeds and the soil to prevent the seeds from falling into the soil. Pulling out: Before the weeds fructify, wear gloves or use tools to pull them out. If it is difficult to pull out weed due to dry soil, adding water to the soil helps to make it easy to remove the roots thoroughly. After pulling out the weed, deep tillage can be adopted to remove the residual roots. This method is especially effective for weeds that are in the seedling stage or low growing size. Pruning: Pruning weeds before they fructify can effectively control the propagation of weeds, especially for annual weeds. Frequent pruning can inhibit the growth and fructification of weeds and effectively them in the same year. Plowing: Before cultivation, plow the soil, collect and discard the roots of perennial weeds, then expose them to the sun or bury them deeply. It can also be used for retting organic fertilizer and composting. Chemical control: Using appropriate herbicides can effectively remove the weed from the area. Note: When removing weeds, it is necessary to wear gloves to avoid direct contact with the weeds, especially for the ones that are poisonous, thorny and allergenic. When removing weeds at the flowering stage, special masks should be worn to prevent allergic reactions caused by the inhalation of pollen.
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Distribution of Wild mustard
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Habitat of Wild mustard
Cultivated ground
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere
Distribution Map of Wild mustard
Wild mustard (Sinapis arvensis) is a very widespread species that originates in grasslands of North Africa, western Europe, and central Asia. It has been introduced throughout much of the rest of the world. The plant is an invasive species in many places, and six US states class it as such.
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info on Wild Mustard Growth and Care
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Lighting
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness. Essentials
Wild mustard flourishes in areas that receive ample light throughout the day, though it is capable of thriving in locations where sun exposure is lessened yet still present. This ensures a robust growth. However, exposure to weak light can limit its growth to some extent, while too much sun exposure could be harmful.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Wild mustard, a plant that thrives in full sunlight, is commonly grown outdoors with ample sunlight. When cultivated indoors with inadequate light, it may exhibit subtle symptoms of light deficiency.
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Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your wild mustard may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Wild mustard enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Wild mustard thrives in full sun exposure and can tolerate intense sunlight. With their remarkable resilience, symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible, as they rarely suffer from it.
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Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care. Essentials
Wild mustard is native to temperate zones, preferring stable temperatures between 68 to 95 °F (20 to 35 ℃). This plant's optimal growth occurs within this range, thus seasonal temperature adjustments may be necessary to maintain these ideal conditions.
Regional wintering strategies
Wild mustard has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by covering the plant with materials such as soil or straw. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in Wild mustard
Wild mustard is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, there may be a decrease in sprouting or even no sprouting during springtime.
Solutions
In spring, remove any parts that have failed to sprout.
Symptoms of High Temperature in Wild mustard
During summer, Wild mustard should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, prone to curling, susceptible to sunburn, and in severe cases, the entire plant may wilt and become dry.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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