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Common bur-reed
Common bur-reed
Common bur-reed
Common bur-reed
Common bur-reed
Common bur-reed
Common bur-reed
Sparganium erectum
Also known as : Bur-reed
The common bur-reed is a perennial herbaceous plant that can reach heights of up to 1.7 meters. It grows rigidly upright and never floods. Unlike the dwarf hedgehog (Sparganium natans), there are no swimming blade forms. The plant has a powerful rhizome that is extensive, creeping, and starchy.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
4 to 8
more
care guide

Care Guide for Common bur-reed

Soil Care
Soil Care
Sand, Loam, Clay, Neutral, Alkaline
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
Ideal Lighting
Ideal Lighting
Full sun, Partial sun
Details on Sunlight Requirements Ideal Lighting
Ideal Temperature
Ideal Temperature
4 to 8
Details on Temperature Ideal Temperature
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
Details on Planting Time Planting Time
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Common bur-reed
Water
Water
Twice per week
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
4 to 8
question

Questions About Common bur-reed

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Common bur-reed?
When watering the Common bur-reed, you should aim to use filtered water that is at room temperature. Filtered water is better for this plant, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to its health. The reason that the water should be at room temperature or slightly warmer is that the Common bur-reed comes from a warm environment, and cold water can be somewhat of a shock to its system. Also, you should avoid overhead watering for this plant, as it can cause foliage complications. Instead, simply apply your filtered room temperature water to the soil until the soil is entirely soaked. Soaking the soil can be very beneficial for this plant as it moistens the roots and helps them continue to spread through the soil and collect the nutrients they need.
Read More more
What should I do if I water my Common bur-reed too much or too little?
Both overwatering and underwatering will be detrimental to the health of your Common bur-reed, but overwatering is a far more common issue. When this species receives too much water, its stems and leaves may begin to wilt and turn from green to yellow. Overwatering over a prolonged period may also lead to diseases such as root rot, mold, and mildew, all of which can kill your plant. Underwatering is far less common for the Common bur-reed, as this plant has decent drought tolerance. However, underwatering remains a possibility, and when it occurs, you can expect to find that the leaves of your Common bur-reed have become brittle and brown.
It is crucial that you notice the signs of overwatering as soon as possible when caring for your Common bur-reed. Some of the diseases that arise from overwatering, such as root rot, may not be correctable if you wait too long. If you see early signs of overwatering, you should reduce your watering schedule immediately. You may also want to assess the quality of soil in which your Common bur-reed grows. If you find that the soil drains very poorly, you should replace it immediately with a loose, well-draining potting mix. On the other hand, if you find signs that your Common bur-reed is receiving too little water, all you need to do is water more regularly until those signs have subsided.
Read More more
How often should I water my Common bur-reed?
If your plant is in a pot. The most precise way to decide whether your Common bur-reed needs water is to plunge your finger into the soil. If you notice that the first two to three inches of soil have become dry, it is time to add some water.
If you grow your Common bur-reed outdoors in the ground, you can use a similar method to test the soil. Again, when you find that the first few inches of soil have dried out, it is time to add water. During the spring and early fall, this method will often lead you to water this plant about once every week. When extremely hot weather arrives, you may need to increase your watering frequency to about twice or more per week. With that said, mature, well-established the Common bur-reed can show an admirable ability to withstand drought.
Read More more
How much water does my Common bur-reed need?
When it comes time to water your Common bur-reed, you should not be shy about how much water you give. With the first two to three inches of soil dry, this plant will appreciate a long and thorough watering. Supply enough water to soak the soil entirely. The amount of water you add should be enough to cause excess water to flow through the drainage holes at the bottom of your pot. If you don’t see excess water draining from the pot, you have likely underwatered your plant. But do not let the water accumulate inside the soil, which will be very dangerous to the plant as well. Alternatively, a lack of water draining through the pot could indicate poorly draining soils, which is detrimental to the health of this plant and should be avoided. If the plant is outside, 1 inch of rain per week will be sufficient.
Read More more
How should I water my Common bur-reed at different growth stages?
The water needs of the Common bur-reed can change depending on growth stages as well. For example, when your Common bur-reed is in the first few years of its life, or if you have just transplanted it to a new growing location, you will need to give more water than usual. During both of those stages, your Common bur-reed will put a lot of energy towards sprouting new roots that will then support future growth. For those roots to perform their best, they need a bit more moisture than they would at a more mature phase. After a few seasons, your Common bur-reed will need much less water. Another growth stage in which this plant may need more water is during the bloom period. Flower development can make use of a significant amount of moisture, which is why you might need to give your Common bur-reed more water at this time.
Read More more
How should I water my Common bur-reed through the seasons?
The Common bur-reed will have its highest water needs during the hottest months of the year. During the height of summer, you may need to give this plant water more than once per week, depending on how fast the soil dries out. The opposite is true during the winter. In winter, your plant will enter a dormant phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. In fact, you may not need to water this plant at all during the winter months. However, if you do water during winter, you should not do so more than about once per month. Watering too much at this time will make it more likely that your Common bur-reed will contract a disease.
Read More more
What's the difference between watering my Common bur-reed indoors and outdoors?
It is most common to grow the Common bur-reed indoors for any gardener that does not live in temperate and tropical regions. Those gardeners should consider the fact that soil in a container can dry out a bit faster than ground soil. Also, the presence of drying elements such as air conditioning units can cause your Common bur-reed to need water on a more frequent basis as well. if you planted it outside. When that is the case, it’s likely you won’t need to water your Common bur-reed very much at all. If you receive rainfall on a regular basis, that may be enough to keep your plant alive. Alternatively, those who grow this plant inside will need to water it more often, as allowing rainwater to soak the soil will not be an option.
Read More more
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Key Facts About Common bur-reed

Attributes of Common bur-reed

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Herb
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
Bloom Time
Summer
Plant Height
1.5 m
Spread
2 m
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Color
Green
Fruit Color
Brown
Green
Stem Color
Green
Leaf type
Semi-evergreen
Ideal Temperature
5 - 32 ℃

Scientific Classification of Common bur-reed

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Common bur-reed

Common issues for Common bur-reed based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
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Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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Leaf scorch
plant poor
Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Overview
Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
  • Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
  • Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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distribution

Distribution of Common bur-reed

Habitat of Common bur-reed

Ponds, Ditches and ungrazed marshland
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Common bur-reed

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
habit
care_scenes

More Info on Common Bur-reed Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
Explore More
Lighting
Full sun
Common bur-reed relishes in areas that soak up plenty of sunlight throughout the day; however, it can withstand lesser light conditions if required. Any lack or excess of sun exposure can hinder its growth and compromise its health. Its native habitats exemplify this affinity for sunny expanses.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
-25 - 35 ℃
Common bur-reed is native to temperate regions and thrives in temperatures between 41 to 89.6°F (5 to 32 °C). Seasonal adjustments may be necessary to ensure optimal growth, especially for areas with extremely high or low temperatures.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
1-2 feet
Spring to early summer (S3-S4) is perfect for transplanting common bur-reed, as it optimizes root development and survival. This plant prefers sunny or partly shaded spots with rich, wet soil. While transplanting, assure to give it ample water, and it will thrive with little further fuss.
Transplant Techniques
Feng shui direction
Southwest
The common bur-reed can manifest harmony in a southwest direction, as this is traditionally associated with love and relationships in Feng Shui. The common bur-reed's sturdy presence can symbolize stability and nourishment, qualities that align well with this nurturing sector. Nevertheless, the individual interpretation of Feng Shui is crucial and can differ from person to person.
Fengshui Details
other_plant

Plants Related to Common bur-reed

Poison ivy
Poison ivy
In pop culture, poison ivy is a symbol of an obnoxious weed because, despite its unthreatening looks, it gives a highly unpleasant contact rash to the unfortunate person who touches it. Still, it is commonly eaten by many animals, and the seeds are a favorite with birds. The leaves turn bright red in fall. Its sister species, Western poison ivy (Toxicodendron rydbergii), is not considered to be invasive in the United States, but is noxious in Australia and New Zealand.
Pokeweed
Pokeweed
Although its berries look juicy and tempting, the fruits and the root of pokeweed are toxic and should not be eaten. Pokeweed is considered a pest species by farmers but is nevertheless often grown as an ornamental plant. Its berries can be made into pokeberry ink as well.
Lambsquarters
Lambsquarters
Lambsquarters has many other names, including pigweed, goosefoot, and bacon weed. This plant seems to appear out of nowhere and is considered by many to be a pesky weed. However, the greens of this plant are edible, can be prepared similar to spinach, and are packed with nutrients.
Horseweed
Horseweed
Horseweed is a North American herbaceous annual plant with a hairy stem, numerous pointed leaves, and waxy inflorescence. It has been naturalized in Eurasia and Australia, where it is a common weed in urban and agricultural regions. Horseweed can be used in a survival situation to start a friction fire.
Common dandelion
Common dandelion
*Taraxacum officinale*, widely known as common dandelion, is a herbaceous perennial that can be found in temperate regions all over the world, in habitats with moist soils. The most popular feature of this plant is its fruits, furry spheres that are easily carried by the wind. Although it is generally considered a weed, common dandelion is actually edible and very nutritious.
Common purslane
Common purslane
Portulaca oleracea, colloquially known as common purslane, is an annual succulent species with reddish stems and tiny yellow, five-petal flowers. It is used for culinary purposes in various parts of the world, most often raw, in salads. Common purslane is also a good companion plant for crops that thrive in moist soils.
Black nightshade
Black nightshade
Black nightshade (Solanum nigrum) is a highly toxic plant and caution should be exercised around this plant. It's said that black nightshade fruits can technically be consumed if they are fully ripe and properly cooked and prepared. Generally though, due to the danger they present, no one would ever want to try to eat this plant.
Canada goldenrod
Canada goldenrod
The Solidago canadensis, colloquially known as canada goldenrod, is a perennial herb native to North America. This plant can be found growing in a variety of different habitats, and it often forms colonies. In many parts of Europe and East Asia, canada goldenrod is considered an invasive species.
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Related Plants
Common bur-reed
Common bur-reed
Common bur-reed
Common bur-reed
Common bur-reed
Common bur-reed
Common bur-reed
Sparganium erectum
Also known as: Bur-reed
The common bur-reed is a perennial herbaceous plant that can reach heights of up to 1.7 meters. It grows rigidly upright and never floods. Unlike the dwarf hedgehog (Sparganium natans), there are no swimming blade forms. The plant has a powerful rhizome that is extensive, creeping, and starchy.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
4 to 8
more
care guide

Care Guide for Common bur-reed

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Questions About Common bur-reed

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Common bur-reed?
more
What should I do if I water my Common bur-reed too much or too little?
more
How often should I water my Common bur-reed?
more
How much water does my Common bur-reed need?
more
How should I water my Common bur-reed at different growth stages?
more
How should I water my Common bur-reed through the seasons?
more
What's the difference between watering my Common bur-reed indoors and outdoors?
more
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Keep your plants happy and healthy with our guide to watering, lighting, feeding and more.
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plant_info

Key Facts About Common bur-reed

Attributes of Common bur-reed

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Herb
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
Bloom Time
Summer
Plant Height
1.5 m
Spread
2 m
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Color
Green
Fruit Color
Brown
Green
Stem Color
Green
Leaf type
Semi-evergreen
Ideal Temperature
5 - 32 ℃
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Scientific Classification of Common bur-reed

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Common bur-reed

Common issues for Common bur-reed based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More About the Brown spot more
Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch Leaf scorch Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Learn More About the Leaf scorch more
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More About the Aged yellow and dry more
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close
Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Leaf scorch
plant poor
Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Overview
Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
  • Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
  • Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms.
  • Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves.
  • Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement.
  • Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation.
  • If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach.
  • If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry.
  • Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections.
  • If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Physiological leaf scorch is best avoided by making sure your plants have a healthy, functional root system and access to enough water. Water regularly, especially on the mornings of excessively hot, sunny days. Deep, infrequent irrigation is better than shallow, frequent irrigation.
  • Have your soil tested and apply the proper nutrients. Be sure to not over-apply fertilizers.
  • Make sure your plants’ roots have room to expand. Avoid compacted soil as well and avoid paving areas above the root zone. Do not till or disturb the soil where plant roots are growing.
  • Plant new trees and shrubs in the fall, so that they have the maximum amount of time to become established before the environmental stresses of the next summer.
  • Remove any dead or dying plant tissue that may harbor secondary infections.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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distribution

Distribution of Common bur-reed

Habitat of Common bur-reed

Ponds, Ditches and ungrazed marshland
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Common bur-reed

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Common Bur-reed Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Plants Related to Common bur-reed

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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Common bur-reed relishes in areas that soak up plenty of sunlight throughout the day; however, it can withstand lesser light conditions if required. Any lack or excess of sun exposure can hinder its growth and compromise its health. Its native habitats exemplify this affinity for sunny expanses.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Common bur-reed thrives in full sunlight and is commonly grown outdoors where it receives ample sunlight. When placed in rooms with inadequate lighting, symptoms of light deficiency may not be readily apparent.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Common bur-reed may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Common bur-reed enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Common bur-reed thrives in full sun exposure and can tolerate intense sunlight. With their remarkable resilience, symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible, as they rarely suffer from it.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Common bur-reed is native to temperate regions and thrives in temperatures between 41 to 89.6°F (5 to 32 °C). Seasonal adjustments may be necessary to ensure optimal growth, especially for areas with extremely high or low temperatures.
Regional wintering strategies
Common bur-reed has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by covering the plant with materials such as soil or straw. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in %s
Common bur-reed is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, there may be a decrease in sprouting or even no sprouting during springtime.
Solutions
In spring, remove any parts that have failed to sprout.
Symptoms of High Temperature in %s
During summer, Common bur-reed should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, prone to curling, susceptible to sunburn, and in severe cases, the entire plant may wilt and become dry.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Common Bur-reed?
Spring to early summer (S3-S4) is perfect for transplanting common bur-reed, as it optimizes root development and survival. This plant prefers sunny or partly shaded spots with rich, wet soil. While transplanting, assure to give it ample water, and it will thrive with little further fuss.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Common Bur-reed?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Common Bur-reed?
The optimal season for transplanting common bur-reed is late Summer or early Fall (S3-S4). This timing allows the plant to establish roots before the cold snap. Transferring during this time reduces stress on common bur-reed, promoting healthier growth and longevity. Completing the initial transplantation preparations during this time period is recommended for superior results. Remember, your care contributes to common bur-reed's flourishing future.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Common Bur-reed Plants?
When transplanting common bur-reed, it's essential to give them ample space to thrive. Ideally, maintain a spacing of 1-2 feet (approx. 30-60 cm) between each plant. This will ensure they grow strong and healthy, without competing for resources too fiercely.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Common Bur-reed Transplanting?
For common bur-reed, a soil rich in organic matter is excellent. Adding well-rotted manure or compost as a base fertilizer will help nourish them. This will boost their growth and improve their general health. Remember, a fertile soil is key to a flourishing plant.
Where Should You Relocate Your Common Bur-reed?
When picking a location for common bur-reed, consider a spot where it receives partial sunlight. Too much sun can harm the plant, whereas the right balance ensures growth and blooming. Scout your garden for such a place, and you're on the right track!
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Common Bur-reed?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands during the handling and transplanting process.
Shovel or Garden Spade
For digging around and beneath the common bur-reed to ensure the roots are not damaged.
Pruning Shears
To trim any damaged roots or excessive growth before transplanting.
Watering Can
Essential for watering the common bur-reed before and after transplanting.
Wheelbarrow or Tarp
For transporting the common bur-reed from the original location to the new site without any damage.
How Do You Remove Common Bur-reed from the Soil?
From Ground: Begin by watering the common bur-reed until the soil is moist, which will make the extraction process easier. Next, using a shovel or garden spade, carefully dig a wide circle around the plant so not to harm the root system. Gradually dig deeper until you can lift the root ball out of the ground gently, making sure not to damage the roots.
From a Pot: If the common bur-reed is in a pot, first water it until the soil is damp. Afterward, gently tilt the pot sideways and ease out the plant, making sure the root ball stays intact. Be careful to support the plant at its base to prevent damaging the roots or stem.
From a Seedling Tray: For seedlings, first water the tray well. Then, carefully separate the common bur-reed seedlings and lift each one at a time, supporting it by the leaf and never by stem. Ensure the delicate roots stay as intact as possible.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Common Bur-reed
Preparing the New Site
Begin by digging a hole in the freshly prepared bed where you will transplant the common bur-reed. The hole's depth should accommodate the size of the root ball and should be twice as wide.
Placing the Plant
Gently place the common bur-reed in the hole you've dug, ensuring the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface in the ground.
Backfilling
Fill in the hole gently but firmly making sure not to compact the soil too tightly around the plant.
Watering
Water the plant thoroughly immediately after transplanting to settle the soil around the roots and minimize transplant shock.
How Do You Care For Common Bur-reed After Transplanting?
Watering
Make sure to keep the soil evenly moist, especially for the first few weeks post-transplant. Do not overwater, as this can lead to root rot.
Pruning
Trim back any damaged or withered leaves to focus the common bur-reed's energy on new growth.
Monitoring
Watch out for signs of transplant shock, such as wilting, yellow leaves, or dropped leaves. Adjust watering or sunlight as needed and be patient as it can take the common bur-reed some time to adjust to its new location.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Common Bur-reed Transplantation.
When is the best time to transplant the common bur-reed?
The most suitable time to transplant common bur-reed is during the S3-S4 stage, or in simpler terms, the late growing season going into early dormancy.
What distance should be maintained between common bur-reed during transplanting?
While transplanting common bur-reed, ensure there's a gap of around 1-2 feet (30-60 cm) between each plant. This affords them ample space to flourish.
What type of soil is preferred for transplanting common bur-reed?
Common bur-reed favors a soil rich in organic matter. In general, it's best to use a well-drained, loamy soil for a successful transplant.
How much sunlight does common bur-reed need after transplanting?
Post-transplanting, common bur-reed needs a good amount of sunlight, preferably full sun to part shade. Ensure your plant gets around 6 to 8 hours of sunlight daily.
Do I need to water common bur-reed immediately after transplanting?
Certainly! Water common bur-reed thoroughly after transplanting it. This helps the soil settle around the root ball and alleviates air pockets.
Do I need to fertilize common bur-reed during transplantation?
Yes, providing common bur-reed with a well-balanced fertilizer can immensely help its establishment post-transplant. Always follow the directions on the packaging.
What should I do if the leaves of my transplanted common bur-reed start to wilt?
Wilting after transplantation is common due to stress. Keep the soil moist, provide partial shade and avoid fertilizing until common bur-reed shows signs of recovery.
How deep should the hole be for transplanting common bur-reed?
The planting hole for common bur-reed should be about two times the width and the same depth as the root ball to allow easy establishment.
Is staking necessary for common bur-reed after transplanting?
Staking isn't usually necessary for common bur-reed. However, if the plant appears flimsy or if the atmosphere is particularly windy, staking can offer additional support.
What precautions should I take to prevent transplant shock in common bur-reed?
Reduce transplant shock by watering thoroughly after transplanting, maintaining consistent care, and avoiding harsh weather conditions, like extreme heat, for the first few weeks.
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