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Add to My Garden Ground orchid
Spathoglottis pubescens
Spathoglottis pubescens is a medium-sized terrestrial orchid species with yellowish flowers. Its native range spans from northeastern India to southern China and Indochina. The natural habitats include open woodlands, dry lowland forests, and grassy slopes. Not to be confused with the ground orchid (S. Plicata), which has purple flowers.
Hardiness Zones
9
Care Guide for Ground orchid
Partial sun, Full shade
9
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Ground orchid
Water
Every week
Hardiness Zones
9
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Ground orchid
Water
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Hardiness Zones
9
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Hardiness Zones
9
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Questions About Ground orchid
Watering 
Pruning 
Sunlight 
Temperature 
Fertilizing What is the best way to water my Ground orchid?
The manner in which you water the Ground orchid will depend somewhat on whether or not your plant is in an active growth phase. If so, you should apply water to your plant’s soil and, if the weather is warm, perform occasional overhead watering to allow the plant to absorb moisture through its leaves. By contrast, in winter, and when the weather is cool or wet generally, you should stick to watering the soil directly rather than including overhead watering as well. You’ll know your Ground orchid needs more water if its roots and leaves become thin and dry or show discoloration. Ground orchid receives too much water will look mushy and limp. You should grow your Ground orchid in a pot and ensure that the potting mix you use has fantastic drainage. During the growing season, you’ll need to water this plant multiple times per week. However, each watering should drain quickly through the growing medium to prevent any standing water. The amount of water you give will change based on the size of the pot you use. Generally, pots that are a bit larger will need water less frequently, while smaller pots will have a slightly more frequent watering schedule. Rainwater and distilled water are the best kinds of water to use for this plant, and it is best if the water you use matches the temperature of the air as closely as possible.
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What should I do if I water my Ground orchid too much or too little?
Allowing your Ground orchid to sit in soil that remains too moist for too long is one of the most common ways to kill this plant. While these plants need water frequently during active growth, they also need to live in a growing medium that drains water rapidly. When this plant experiences overwatering, it will become mushy and develop root rot. If that occurs, you should be prepared to use a pair of sterile pruning shears to cut out any roots that show signs of rot. After doing that, you should then repot your Ground orchid, ensuring that the container allows for drainage and that you fill the container with a fast-draining potting mix. However, Ground orchid doesn’t typically respond that well to excessive repotting, so it is crucial to get your watering rate right. Underwatered Ground orchid will begin to shrivel and feel dry to the touch. If this occurs, it is likely because the soil is drying out faster than you expected, which means you should increase your watering frequency.
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How often should I water my Ground orchid?
During the active growth stage, which spans the spring and summer months, you should plan to water your Ground orchid about once or twice per week while increasing that rate to three times per week or more in the case of long periods of hot and dry weather. In the winter, you will also need to water your Ground orchid, but not nearly as much. A watering frequency of two to three times per month should be enough to keep your Ground orchid alive during the coldest months. However, if you keep your Ground orchid indoors during winter, you should account for the fact that indoor growing locations can cause the soil to dry quicker than usual, which may mean you need to increase the number of monthly waterings. You can use the fall as a time to gradually reduce your watering frequency from the summer rate of multiple times per week down to your reduced winter watering schedule.
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What should I consider when watering my Ground orchid in different seasons and growth periods?
There are two important growth phases that you should consider when planning the watering schedule for your Ground orchid. The first of those periods is the active growth period, which happens in spring and summer, and which calls for watering this plant multiple times per week. The second important growth period is the rest period that the Ground orchid should experience for about two to three months each year during winter. During that time, your plant will need far less water and fertilization than normal. Water about once or twice per month during this time. During the fall, you should begin to gradually reduce your watering frequency from multiple times per week all the way down to the once or twice per month rate that is appropriate for winter.
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How should I water my Ground orchid differently if I grow it indoors?
The Ground orchid requires a growing environment that is relatively humid. Unfortunately, most indoor growing locations will lack the level of air moisture that this plant prefers. This causes the plant and its soil to dry out more quickly than it would when growing outdoors. To combat this effect, you may want to include a humidifier in the room where you grow your Ground orchid. You may also need to water it a bit more frequently as well. However, while Ground orchids do prefer humidity, they also require adequate air circulation as well, to prevent excessive moisture build-ups and the diseases that can result. Consider including a fan in the room where you grow this plant as well to ensure proper air circulation remains present.
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More About How-Tos
Explore 5 of plant how-tos on Feng shui direction, Water, Lighting, Temperature, Transplant, etc.
Feng shui direction
Southwest
The ground orchid is considered harmonious in the realm of Feng Shui, potentially fostering positive chi flow. This serendipity is heightened when placed in a southwest facing direction; a position associated with Earth element and it compliments this plant's grounding properties. However, like all Feng Shui practice, the effectiveness may vary based on individual circumstances.
Water
Every week
Lighting
Partial sun
Ground orchid's optimal growth is achieved in a spot with filtered or dispersed daylight, though it can also do well in areas with less light. Abundant exposure can hamper its development while a lack of daylight can stunt growth. Its native habitats have these specific light conditions.
Temperature
0 38 ℃
Ground orchid is indigenous to regions known for their warm climates, typically within a temperature range of 68 to 95 °F (20 to 35 ℃). It thrives best when these temperatures are maintained year-round.
Transplant
2-3 feet
Optimal transplant season for ground orchid is in the spring-summer (S2-S3), as the increased temperature and sunlight stimulate growth. Ground orchid prefers semi-shaded locations with well-drained soil. Ensure roots are well settled and fully hydrated after transplant for optimal growth.
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Ground orchid based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Anthracnose
Anthracnose causes grey-brown spots with black margins on leaves and stems.
Solutions: For less serious cases when only a few leaves are affected, complete the following: Prune affected leaves. Using pruning shears, remove leaves that have spots. Dispose of these leaves to avoid spreading the disease to other plants. Clear debris. To stop the spread of disease, remove debris and weeds from around plants. For serious cases when many leaves are infected with large splotches: Apply a fungicide. Fungicides won't cure current infections, but they will prevent anthracnose from spreading to uninfected tissue. Apply a fungicide before a dry period following product instructions. Products containing copper diammonia diacetate are most likely to be effective.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
- At first, flowers may look a little limp.
- Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
- Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
Solutions
- Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water.
- Water according to recommendations for each plant's species.
- Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too.
- Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants.
- Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Prevention
- Read up on moisture, light, and soil type preferences for each plant to avoid underwatering, incorrect light levels, or other conditions that can cause wilting blooms.
- Avoid re-potting during the flowering period. This causes additional stress on the plants because they need to repair root damage and adapt to the new micro-environment, all of which can result in wilting.
- One other potential cause is ethylene gas, a plant hormone related to ripening. Some fruits and vegetables emit ethylene, especially bananas. Apples, grapes, melons, avocados, and potatoes can also give it off, so keep flowering plants away from fresh produce.
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Anthracnose
Anthracnose causes grey-brown spots with black margins on leaves and stems.
Overview
Anthracnose is a group of fungal diseases that affects foliage, twigs, and stems. It can affect a wide variety of plants including trees, shrubs, vegetables, grasses, and flowers and is most likely to occur in cool, wet conditions. It often occurs in the spring when rain splashes on overwintering fungi.
Some varieties of plants are bred to be resistant to anthracnose. If plants are not resistant, they can become infected year after year. Plants can also recover from infection only to be reinfected later that year.
In most cases, anthracnose only causes minor damage. However, young plants are susceptible to major damage. In the worst-case scenarios, this disease can cause major defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Plant leaves will show gray or brown blotches that may be surrounded by black edges. Blotches may be only one small spot or many spots that cover an entire leaf. If these symptoms progress, leaves may drop prematurely.
Anthracnose can also cause small lesions on twigs and stems. These often appear as brown, gray, or orange blisters. If left untreated, twigs may drop.
Disease Cause
Anthracnose is caused by one of several possible fungi. These pathogens overwinter on plant debris. When water hits these fungi in the spring, spores release and land on plant tissue. When the spores germinate on leaf or twig tissue, they cause anthracnose symptoms.
These fungi need moist conditions to live. Therefore, they will not be a problem in dry conditions.
Solutions
For less serious cases when only a few leaves are affected, complete the following:
- Prune affected leaves. Using pruning shears, remove leaves that have spots. Dispose of these leaves to avoid spreading the disease to other plants.
- Clear debris. To stop the spread of disease, remove debris and weeds from around plants.
For serious cases when many leaves are infected with large splotches:
- Apply a fungicide. Fungicides won't cure current infections, but they will prevent anthracnose from spreading to uninfected tissue. Apply a fungicide before a dry period following product instructions. Products containing copper diammonia diacetate are most likely to be effective.
Prevention
Since anthracnose is difficult to treat once it appears, it's important to prevent it from infecting your plants.
- Remove debris. Clear all old plant material and weeds from under and around plants in the fall. This material can harbor anthracnose spores that will later infect plants.
- Select resistant varieties. When adding new plants, choose varieties that are resistant to anthracnose.
- Increase airflow. Anthracnose thrives in wet conditions, so space plants far enough apart to allow for good airflow.
- Avoid overhead irrigation. To keep plant tissue dry, avoid using overhead irrigation. Instead, water at the base of plants or install drip irrigation.
- Use a preventative fungicide. If there is a reason to suspect future anthracnose outbreaks, apply a fungicide in the early spring.
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Distribution Map
Habitat
Garden
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info
Plant Type
Herb
Bloom Time
Summer, Fall
Scientific Classification
Phylum
Vascular plants Class
Monocotyledons Order
Asparagus and allies Family
Orchid Genus
Purple orchid Species
Ground orchid 
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Care Guide
Care FAQ
More About How-Tos
Pests & Diseases
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Add to My Garden Ground orchid
Spathoglottis pubescens
Spathoglottis pubescens is a medium-sized terrestrial orchid species with yellowish flowers. Its native range spans from northeastern India to southern China and Indochina. The natural habitats include open woodlands, dry lowland forests, and grassy slopes. Not to be confused with the ground orchid (S. Plicata), which has purple flowers.
Hardiness Zones
9
Care Guide for Ground orchid
Know the light your plants really get.
Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.
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Download
Questions About Ground orchid
Watering Pruning Sunlight Temperature Fertilizing What is the best way to water my Ground orchid?
What should I do if I water my Ground orchid too much or too little?
How often should I water my Ground orchid?
What should I consider when watering my Ground orchid in different seasons and growth periods?
How should I water my Ground orchid differently if I grow it indoors?
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More About How-Tos
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Ground orchid based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More ![more]()
Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Learn More ![more]()
Anthracnose
Anthracnose causes grey-brown spots with black margins on leaves and stems.
Solutions: For less serious cases when only a few leaves are affected, complete the following: Prune affected leaves. Using pruning shears, remove leaves that have spots. Dispose of these leaves to avoid spreading the disease to other plants. Clear debris. To stop the spread of disease, remove debris and weeds from around plants. For serious cases when many leaves are infected with large splotches: Apply a fungicide. Fungicides won't cure current infections, but they will prevent anthracnose from spreading to uninfected tissue. Apply a fungicide before a dry period following product instructions. Products containing copper diammonia diacetate are most likely to be effective.
Learn More ![more]()
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AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
Download the App
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
- At first, flowers may look a little limp.
- Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
- Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
Solutions
- Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water.
- Water according to recommendations for each plant's species.
- Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too.
- Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants.
- Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Prevention
- Read up on moisture, light, and soil type preferences for each plant to avoid underwatering, incorrect light levels, or other conditions that can cause wilting blooms.
- Avoid re-potting during the flowering period. This causes additional stress on the plants because they need to repair root damage and adapt to the new micro-environment, all of which can result in wilting.
- One other potential cause is ethylene gas, a plant hormone related to ripening. Some fruits and vegetables emit ethylene, especially bananas. Apples, grapes, melons, avocados, and potatoes can also give it off, so keep flowering plants away from fresh produce.
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Anthracnose
Anthracnose causes grey-brown spots with black margins on leaves and stems.
Overview
Anthracnose is a group of fungal diseases that affects foliage, twigs, and stems. It can affect a wide variety of plants including trees, shrubs, vegetables, grasses, and flowers and is most likely to occur in cool, wet conditions. It often occurs in the spring when rain splashes on overwintering fungi.
Some varieties of plants are bred to be resistant to anthracnose. If plants are not resistant, they can become infected year after year. Plants can also recover from infection only to be reinfected later that year.
In most cases, anthracnose only causes minor damage. However, young plants are susceptible to major damage. In the worst-case scenarios, this disease can cause major defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Plant leaves will show gray or brown blotches that may be surrounded by black edges. Blotches may be only one small spot or many spots that cover an entire leaf. If these symptoms progress, leaves may drop prematurely.
Anthracnose can also cause small lesions on twigs and stems. These often appear as brown, gray, or orange blisters. If left untreated, twigs may drop.
Disease Cause
Anthracnose is caused by one of several possible fungi. These pathogens overwinter on plant debris. When water hits these fungi in the spring, spores release and land on plant tissue. When the spores germinate on leaf or twig tissue, they cause anthracnose symptoms.
These fungi need moist conditions to live. Therefore, they will not be a problem in dry conditions.
Solutions
For less serious cases when only a few leaves are affected, complete the following:
- Prune affected leaves. Using pruning shears, remove leaves that have spots. Dispose of these leaves to avoid spreading the disease to other plants.
- Clear debris. To stop the spread of disease, remove debris and weeds from around plants.
For serious cases when many leaves are infected with large splotches:
- Apply a fungicide. Fungicides won't cure current infections, but they will prevent anthracnose from spreading to uninfected tissue. Apply a fungicide before a dry period following product instructions. Products containing copper diammonia diacetate are most likely to be effective.
Prevention
Since anthracnose is difficult to treat once it appears, it's important to prevent it from infecting your plants.
- Remove debris. Clear all old plant material and weeds from under and around plants in the fall. This material can harbor anthracnose spores that will later infect plants.
- Select resistant varieties. When adding new plants, choose varieties that are resistant to anthracnose.
- Increase airflow. Anthracnose thrives in wet conditions, so space plants far enough apart to allow for good airflow.
- Avoid overhead irrigation. To keep plant tissue dry, avoid using overhead irrigation. Instead, water at the base of plants or install drip irrigation.
- Use a preventative fungicide. If there is a reason to suspect future anthracnose outbreaks, apply a fungicide in the early spring.
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Distribution Map
Habitat
Garden
Map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info
Plant Type
Herb
Bloom Time
Summer, Fall
Scientific Classification
Phylum
Vascular plants Class
Monocotyledons Order
Asparagus and allies Family
Orchid Genus
Purple orchid Species
Ground orchid 
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Water
How Often Should I Water Ground Orchid?
Every week
Watering Frequency
Smart Seasonal Watering
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Just like people, each plant has its own preferences and needs. Devote time to understanding your plants so you can nurture them properly. Observe your plants attentively, learning from their growth patterns, and becoming more in tune with their needs as you grow together. Keep a watchful eye on new plants and seedlings, as they are sensitive to both overwatering and underwatering. Shower them with gentle love and attention, fostering their growth and strength. Let the rhythm of your local climate guide your watering habits, adapting your schedule to the changing weather and the needs of your plants. Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Ground orchid is more susceptible to developing disease symptoms when overwatered because it prefers a soil environment with moderate humidity. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, brown or black spots, root rot...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Yellowing leaves
When plants receive too much water, the roots become oxygen deprived and the bottom leaves of the plant gradually turn yellow.
Brown or black spots
Excessive watering can damage the plant's root system, making it vulnerable to fungal infections. The plant may develop dark brown to black spots that spread upwards from the lower leaves which are usually the first to be affected.
Root rot
Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Soft or mushy stems
Excess water can cause stems to become soft and mushy, as the cells become waterlogged and lose their structural integrity.
Increased susceptibility diseases
Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
Ground orchid is more susceptible to plant health issues when lacking watering, as it can only tolerate short periods of drought. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, leaf curling, yellowing leaves...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Wilting
Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Loss of turgor pressure
When plants are underwatered, their cells lose water, causing a loss of turgor pressure. This can result in the plant appearing limp or deflated.
Dying plant
If underwatering continues for an extended period, the plant may ultimately die as a result of severe water stress and an inability to carry out essential functions.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.
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Lighting
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Partial sun
Ideal
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Full shade
Tolerance
Less than 3 hours of sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness. Essentials
Ground orchid's optimal growth is achieved in a spot with filtered or dispersed daylight, though it can also do well in areas with less light. Abundant exposure can hamper its development while a lack of daylight can stunt growth. Its native habitats have these specific light conditions.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Ground orchid thrives in partial sunlight but can tolerate full sunlight in cooler weather. However, during winter when cultivated indoors, it is more prone to light deficiency due to being placed in rooms with insufficient lighting.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Ground orchid may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Ground orchid enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To optimize plant growth, shift them to increasingly sunnier spots each week until they receive 3-6 hours of direct sunlight daily, enabling gradual adaptation to changing light conditions.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Ground orchid thrives in partial sun exposure but can handle full sun in cooler weather. However, in the summer, they are prone to sunburn as they cannot tolerate intense sunlight in high-temperature environments.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care. Essentials
Ground orchid is indigenous to regions known for their warm climates, typically within a temperature range of 68 to 95 °F (20 to 35 ℃). It thrives best when these temperatures are maintained year-round.
Regional wintering strategies
Ground orchid has some cold tolerance and generally does not require any additional measures when the temperature is above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. However, if the temperature is expected to drop below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it is necessary to take some temporary measures for cold protection, such as wrapping the plant with plastic film, fabric, or other materials. Once the temperature rises again, the protective measures should be removed promptly.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Ground orchid has moderate tolerance to low temperatures and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves may start to droop. In mild cases, they can recover, but in severe cases, the leaves will wilt and eventually fall off.
Solutions
Trim off the frost-damaged parts. Prior to encountering low temperatures again, wrap the plant with materials such as non-woven fabric or cloth, and construct a wind barrier to protect it from the cold wind.
High Temperature
During summer, Ground orchid should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the color of the leaves becomes lighter, the leaf tips may become dry and withered, the leaves may curl, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
How to Successfully Transplant Ground Orchid?
Optimal transplant season for ground orchid is in the spring-summer (S2-S3), as the increased temperature and sunlight stimulate growth. Ground orchid prefers semi-shaded locations with well-drained soil. Ensure roots are well settled and fully hydrated after transplant for optimal growth.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Ground Orchid?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Ground Orchid?
The ideal season for transplanting ground orchid is late spring to early summer. This period offers the perfect blend of mild temperature and sunlight, promoting healthy root development. Transplanting ground orchid during this time maximizes the plant's growth potential and ensures it thrives all year round.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Ground Orchid Plants?
For ground orchid, create ample space for each plant about 2-3 feet (0.6-0.9 meters) apart. This gives them room to grow larger and prevents competition for nutrients and water. Stick with this planting plan and you'll have thriving plants in no time!
What is the Best Soil Mix for Ground Orchid Transplanting?
Let's prepare perfect soil for ground orchid. Go for well-drained loamy or sandy soil. A great starter fertilizer would be a slow-release type, which feeds the plant in small doses. This approach sets the stage for healthy growth.
Where Should You Relocate Your Ground Orchid?
For the best growth, choose a location where ground orchid gets partial to full sunlight, (4-6 hours of sunlight per day). Less light can hamper blooming. But worry not, even with a wrong location choice, our friend can be transplanted again.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Ground Orchid?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands when dealing with soil and handling the ground orchid plant.
Shovel or Spade
These tools are particularly useful for digging holes in the ground and also removing the plant from its current location.
Gardening Trowel
This helps with the removal of smaller dirt clumps and for making precise adjustments to the soil.
Watering Can
Essential for watering the plant during the transplanting process and afterwards to help it establish in the new location.
Pruning Shears
For removing damaged or dead parts of the plant during the transplanting process.
How Do You Remove Ground Orchid from the Soil?
Step1 Site Preparation
Clear the selected area of any debris or weeds that might compete with the ground orchid plant. Use your shovel or spade to dig a hole that is double the width and the same depth as the root ball.
Step2 Transplanting
Gently place the ground orchid plant in the prepared hole, making sure that the top of the root ball is flush with the ground level. Backfill the hole with the removed soil, pressing it lightly to remove any air pockets.
Step3 Watering
Immediately after transplanting, use your watering can to water the plant generously. Keep the soil uniformly damp to aid the plant's recovery and establishment.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Ground Orchid
Step1 Site Preparation
Clear the selected area of any debris or weeds that might compete with the ground orchid plant. Use your shovel or spade to dig a hole that is double the width and the same depth as the root ball.
Step2 Transplanting
Gently place the ground orchid plant in the prepared hole, making sure that the top of the root ball is flush with the ground level. Backfill the hole with the removed soil, pressing it lightly to remove any air pockets.
Step3 Watering
Immediately after transplanting, use your watering can to water the plant generously. Keep the soil uniformly damp to aid the plant's recovery and establishment.
How Do You Care For Ground Orchid After Transplanting?
Monitoring
Note any visible signs of transplant shock, such as wilting or yellowing leaves. If noticed, provide more frequent watering and shade the plant.
Pruning
Use your pruning shears to cut off any dead or dying leaves post-transplant. This focuses the plant's energy on root re-establishment.
Ongoing care
After two weeks of regular watering, reduce it to once a week or when the soil starts to dry out. Also, consider repotting or replanting in a season that is most beneficial to the growth of ground orchid.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Ground Orchid Transplantation.
What's the best time to transplant ground orchid?
The most ideal time to transplant ground orchid is during the second or third season (S2-S3). It's when root growth becomes exceptionally robust, giving your plant a head start.
How far apart should ground orchid plants be spaced?
To allow for mature growth, ground orchid should be spaced approximately 2-3 feet (60-90 cm) apart. This gives them adequate room to expand and prevents competition for resources.
How to prepare the soil for ground orchid transplant?
It's essential to make the soil nutrient-rich for ground orchid. Mix compost or aged manure into the garden soil to improve its fertility and drainage before the transplanting process.
Will ground orchid survive if transplanted in full sun?
Ground orchid flowers best in full sun locations, but it can also tolerate partial shade. Just ensure it gets at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily for optimal growth.
How deep should the hole be for ground orchid transplant?
Dig a hole broad enough and deep enough to easily accommodate the root ball of ground orchid. A depth of 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) should be sufficient.
What to do if ground orchid wilts after transplanting?
Wilting after transplanting can often be a sign of transplant shock. Keep the soil consistently moist and consider shading ground orchid from harsh afternoon sunlight until it recovers.
Why are the leaves of my ground orchid turning yellow after transplanting?
Yellowing leaves on ground orchid after transplant can indicate overwatering or poor drainage. Adjust watering schedules and ensure the soil has adequate drainage to correct the problem.
How frequently do I need to water ground orchid after transplantation?
Keep the soil of ground orchid consistently moist, but not waterlogged, for the first few weeks following transplantation. Once established, ground orchid can tolerate somewhat drier conditions.
How to protect ground orchid from pests during the transplantation process?
Before transplanting, inspect ground orchid for signs of pests. If found, treat with a natural pesticide. After transplanting, maintain good hygiene in the area to deter any pests.
Should I prune ground orchid before or after transplanting?
It's advisable to lightly prune ground orchid after transplanting rather than before. This keeps the plant compact and encourages new growth, which can promote faster establishment and recovery.
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