About
Care Guide
Care FAQ
Pests & Diseases
Distribution
More Info
Related Plants
Related Articles
Add to My Garden Magenta cherry
Syzygium paniculatum
Also known as: Magenta lilly pilly, Australian water pear
Magenta cherry (Syzygium paniculatum) is a plant species native to New South Wales, Australia. Magenta cherry produces edible fruits that are similar to red grapes. This species is also referred to as native myrtle. The edible fruits of this species are known for their sour apple flavor, and are often made into jams.
Every 1-2 weeks
Water
Full sun
Sunlight
Care Guide for Magenta cherry
Fertilization
Fertilize your magenta cherry a few times each year to ensure that it grows at a faster rate and produces high-quality fruits and flowers. You can supplement the soil with organic fertilizer or add a nitrogen-high fertilizer to the soil along with watering. Feed this tree during the spring and summer rather than during its dormancy.
Soil
Sand, Loam, Clay
Sunlight
Full sun, Partial sun
Hardiness Zones
9 to 11
Planting Time
Spring
Tips, advice, and instructions for over 13,000 species that you will find nowhere else
Scan QR code to download
Magenta cherry
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
9 to 11
Planting Time
Spring
Download and print this plant care card and attach it to your plants
Download
Magenta cherry
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
9 to 11
Planting Time
Spring
Download
Magenta cherry
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
9 to 11
Planting Time
Spring
Download
Questions About Magenta cherry
Watering 
Pruning 
Temperature 
Fertilizing What is the best way to water my Magenta cherry?
Your Magenta cherry will not be too picky about how you choose to water it. As such, you can use just about any common watering tool to moisten this plant’s soil. Watering cans, hoses, and even cups will work just fine when it is time to water your Magenta cherry. Regardless of which watering tool you use, you should typically apply the water directly to the soil. In doing so, you should ensure that you moisten all soil areas equally to give all parts of the root system the water it needs. It can help to use filtered water, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to plants. It is also beneficial to use water that is at or slightly above room temperature, as colder or hotter water can be somewhat shocking to the Magenta cherry. However, the Magenta cherry usually responds well to any kind of water you give it.
Read More ![more]()
Free
What should I do if I water my Magenta cherry too much or too little?
For outdoor plants, especially newly planted plants or plant seedlings, they can be prone to lack of watering. Remember that you need to keep watering enough for a few months when the tree is small or just planted. This is because once the roots are established, Magenta cherry can rely on rain most of the time.
When your Magenta cherry is planted in pots, overwatering is often more likely to.When you accidentally overwater your Magenta cherry, you should be prepared to remedy the situation immediately. First, you should stop watering your plant right away to minimize the effect of your overwatering. After, you should consider removing your Magenta cherry from its pot to inspect its roots. If you find that none of the roots have developed root rot, it may be permissible to return your plant to its container. If you do discover signs of root rot, then you should trim away any roots that have been affected. You may also want to apply a fungicide to prevent further damage. Lastly, you should repot your Magenta cherry in soil that is well-draining. In the case of an underwatered Magenta cherry, simply water this plant more frequently.
Underwatering is often an easy fix. If you underwater, the plant's leaves will tend to droop and dry out and fall off, and the leaves will quickly return to fullness after sufficient watering. Please correct your watering frequency as soon as underwatering occurs.
Read More ![more]()
Free
How often should I water my Magenta cherry?
Most plants that grow naturally outdoors can be allowed to grow normally with rainfall. If your area lacks rainfall, consider giving your plants adequate watering every 2 weeks during the spring and fall. More frequent watering is needed in summer. In winter, when growth becomes slower and plants need less water, water more sparingly. Throughout the winter, you may not give it additional watering at all. If your Magenta cherry is young or newly planted, then you should water more frequently to help it establish, and mature and grow up to have more adaptable and drought tolerant plants.
For potted plants, there are two main ways that you can determine how often to water your Magenta cherry. The first way is to set a predetermined watering schedule. If you choose this route, you should plan to water this plant about once every week or once every other week. However, this approach may not always work as it does not consider the unique conditions of the growing environment for your Magenta cherry .
Your watering frequency can also change depending on the season. For instance, a predetermined watering schedule will likely not suffice during summer when this plant's water needs are highest. An alternative route is to set your watering frequency based on soil moisture. Typically, it is best to wait until the first two to four inches of soil, usually ⅓ to ½ depth of the pots, have dried out entirely before you give more water.
Read More ![more]()
Free
How much water does my Magenta cherry need?
When it comes time to water your Magenta cherry, you may be surprised to find that this plant does not always need a high volume of water. Instead, if only a few inches of soil have dried since your last watering, you can support healthy growth in the Magenta cherry by giving it about five to ten ounces of water every time you water. You can also decide your water volume based on soil moisture. As mentioned above, you should note how many inches of soil have dried out between waterings. A surefire way to make sure your Magenta cherry gets the moisture it needs is to supply enough water to moisten all the soil layers that became dry since the last time you watered. If more than half of the soil has become dry, you should consider giving more water than usual. In those cases, continue adding water until you see excess water draining from your pot’s drainage holes.
If your Magenta cherry is planted in an area that gets plenty of rain outdoors, it may not need additional watering. When the Magenta cherry is young or just getting established, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As it continues to grow and establish, it can survive entirely on rainwater and only when the weather is hot and there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving your Magenta cherry a full watering to prevent them from suffering stress.
Read More ![more]()
How can I tell if i'm watering my Magenta cherry enough?
Overwatering is a far more common problem for the Magenta cherry, and there are several signs you should look for when this occurs. Generally, an overwatered Magenta cherry will have yellowing leaves and may even drop some leaves. Also, overwatering can cause the overall structure of your plant to shrivel and may also promote root rot. On the other hand, an underwatered Magenta cherry will also begin to wilt. It may also display leaves that are brown or brittle to the touch. Whether you see signs of overwatering or underwatering, you should be prepared to intervene and restore the health of your Magenta cherry.
Read More ![more]()
How can I water my Magenta cherry at different growth stages?
When the Magenta cherry is very young, such as when it is in a seedling stage, you will need to give it more water than you would if it were at a mature age. During the early stages of this plant’s life, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist to encourage root development. The same is true for any Magenta cherry that you have transplanted to a new growing location. Also, the Magenta cherry can develop showy flowers and fruits when you give them the correct care. If your Magenta cherry is in a flowering or fruiting phase, you will likely need to give a bit more water than you usually would to support these plant structures.
Read More ![more]()
How can I water my Magenta cherry through the seasons?
The seasonal changes will affect how often you water your Magenta cherry. Mainly, during the hottest summer months, you will likely need to increase how much you water this plant, especially if it grows in an area that receives ample sunlight. Strong summer sunlight can cause soil to dry out much faster than usual, meaning that you’ll need to water more frequently. By contrast, your Magenta cherry will need much less water during the winter, as it will not be in an active growing phase. During winter, you can get by with watering once every 2 to 3 weeks or sometimes not at all. For those growing this plant indoors, you should be somewhat wary of appliances such as air conditioners, which can cause your plant to dry out more quickly, which also calls for more frequent watering.
Read More ![more]()
What's the difference between watering my Magenta cherry indoors vs outdoors?
In some cases, your Magenta cherry may not need any supplemental watering when it grows outside and will survive on rainwater alone. However, if you live in an area of little to no rain, you should water this plant about every two weeks. If you belong to the group of people who live out of this plant's natural hardiness zone, you should grow it indoors. In an indoor setting, you should monitor your plant's soil as it can dry out more quickly when it is in a container or when it is exposed to HVAC units such as air conditioners. Those drying factors will lead you to water this plant a bit more often than if you grew it outdoors.
Read More ![more]()
You’ve got questions. We’ve got answers.
Let us help take all the guesswork out of your gardening.
More Questions People Also Ask
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Magenta cherry based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Fruit rot
Soft rot in the fruit can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: Prune out and destroy infected spurs and branches. Correct spacing between plants to reduce wind-born infection. Chemical fungicides may become necessary. Bird deterrents and biological or chemical treatments for insects will reduce fruit damage, making it harder for fungal infections to take hold.
Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Solutions: There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
Keep your leafy friends healthy and happy.
Diagnose your plant, and learn how to prevent and treat plant diseases.
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up
Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
- Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
- Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
- Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
- Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
- Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
- Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
- Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
- Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up
Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google
Fruit rot
Soft rot in the fruit can have a variety of causes.
Overview
Fruit rot is quite common, and there are a large number of factors that can lie at the heart of this problem. Symptoms also vary from fruit to fruit and from cause to cause, but in general, one can recognize fruit that is rotten or starting to rot. Many of the most common causes of rotting are related to fungal diseases, which enter the fruit through wounds such as those caused by birds. The disease then spreads outwards from the wound. From there it can spread to neighboring fruit or be carried by the wind to plants further away.
Symptom Analysis
Below are some of the broader symptoms to look out for in cases of fruit rot. If this occurs on just one or two fruit it may just be as the result of a small-scale infection, but if it is widespread then a fungal infection problem is likely.
- Small brown spots appear on the fruit.
- Brown spots expand, normally in concentric circles and the center starts to go soft and mushy.
- Mushiness spreads and grey or brown powdery pustules start to coat the fruit.
- Some fruit will drop but others may remain and gradually turn mummified.
Disease Cause
Fruit rot is often caused by fungal infection. These fungi overwinter on fallen fruit, and then the spores are spread by the wind the following spring. Birds and sap-sucking insects can also act as vectors. Entry to new fruit is made considerably easier if there are wounds of any kind through which the spores can penetrate the skin. The healthier the tree or plant, the better able it is to defend itself from infection.
Solutions
- Prune out and destroy infected spurs and branches.
- Correct spacing between plants to reduce wind-born infection.
- Chemical fungicides may become necessary.
- Bird deterrents and biological or chemical treatments for insects will reduce fruit damage, making it harder for fungal infections to take hold.
Prevention
To prevent pests and disease infection:
- Pick fruits on time. Remove fruit once ripe to prevent opportunities for pests and fungal infections to take hold.
- Rake and clean debris. Remove and bury surrounding plant material that may host diseases.
- Prune branches and thin fruit. Remove ripening fruits so they do not touch one another and prune branches to improve air circulation (reducing the wet conditions in which fungi thrive).
- Consider preventative use of fungicide prior to fruit forming.
To prevent nutrient deficiency that weakens the plant:
- Add mulch. Adding a layer of mulch on top of the soil early in the season will keep moisture even.
- Use organic fertilizer. Plants given ammonia-based fertilizer cannot uptake calcium efficiently. Use compost, fish emulsion, liquid kelp or other organic fertilizer.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up
Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google
Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Overview
Nutrient deficiencies can be seen in many different ways on plants. Basically, the lack of nutrients will inhibit plant growth, produce weak stems and leaves, and leave plants open to infection from pests and diseases. Plants use the nutrients from the soil to help them with photosynthesis. This, in turn, produces healthy plant growth. Plants that lack adequate amounts of nutrients will look lackluster and unhealthy. Eventually, if this is not addressed, it will cause the plants to die. The most important nutrients that plants need are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Additionally, plants require small amounts of micronutrients such as iron, boron, manganese, zinc, copper, and molybdenum.
Symptom Analysis
A common sign that plants are experiencing nutrient deficiencies is the yellowing of leaves. This may be an overall yellowing or leaves that are yellow but still have green veins. These leaves will eventually brown off and die.
Another sign is the loss of plant vigor. The plants may not be growing as well as they should or their growth may be stunted.
Below are some common symptoms that appear when plants are lacking in nutrients.
Nitrogen (N): Inner, older leaves yellow first. If the deficiency is severe, yellowing progresses outward to newer growth.
Potassium (K): Leaf edges may turn brown and crinkly, with a yellowing layer forming just inside of the edge. Older leaves tend to be impacted first.
Phosphorus (P): Lack of vigorous growth. Plants will appear stunted.
Zinc (Zn): Yellowing tends to occur first at the base of the leaf.
Copper (Cu): Newer leaves begin to yellow first, with older leaves yellowing only if the deficiency becomes severe.
Boron (B): Newer leaves are impacted first. Foliage may also become particularly brittle in cases of boron deficiency.
Disease Cause
There are several factors that can lead to nutrient deficiencies, a situation where plants are not receiving the nutrients that they need. This could be because they are planted in nutrient-deficient soils, or that the soil's pH is too high or low. Incorrect soil pH can lock up certain nutrients, thus making them unavailable to plants. Lack of soil moisture can also be a problem, because plants need water to be able to absorb the nutrients from the soil.
Solutions
There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils.
- Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies.
- Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy.
- Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly.
- Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
Prevention
There are several easy ways to prevent nutrient deficiencies in plants.
- Regular fertilizing. Regular addition of fertilizer to the soil is one of the simplest and most effective ways to prevent deficiencies.
- Proper watering. Both over and under watering can adversely impact a plant's roots, which in turn makes it harder for them to properly take up nutrients.
- Testing the soil's pH. A soil's acidity or alkalinity will impact the degree to which certain nutrients are available to be taken up by plants. Knowing the soil's pH means it can be amended to suit the needs of the individual plants.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up
Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google
Distribution Map
Habitat
Rain forests
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info
Plant Type
Shrub, Tree
Flower Color
White
Bloom Time
Spring, Early summer
Leaf Color
Green
Red
Purple
Name story
Brush cherry
The common name magenta cherry refers to its edible, magenta-colored fruit, which is crisp and juicy and very refreshing to hikers in the wild. It is tastier, however, when made into jam or jelly.
Usages
Garden Use
Magenta cherry is a flowering evergreen shrub that is valued as a garden plant due to its glossy leaves, attractive blossoms, and ornamental fruits. In gardens, this species grows best in full sun, but can tolerate shade. The magenta cherry may attract birds, which feed upon its fruit. It is popularly used for topiary and hedging.
Scientific Classification
Phylum
Vascular plants Class
Dicotyledons Order
Myrtle order Family
Myrtle Genus
Lillipillies Species
Magenta cherry Related Plants
Princess flower
Princess flower (Pleroma semidecandrum) is an evergreen tree that can grow from 3 to 6 m tall. Attractive foliage features deep green, velvety leaves with red edges. Blooms mostly from summer to fall but can bloom throughout the year. Flowers are large, often measuring 10 to 13 cm long and are a deep purple color that offers a showy display. Thrives in full sun and prefers moist, well-drained soil.
Bloom Time
Summer, Autumn
Carnation
Carnation (Dianthus caryophyllus) is a herbaceous ornamental perennial known for its fragrant, distinctive flowers. Wild varieties of this species can be found in the Mediterranean. Carnation has rich symbolism, both in the traditional and religious sense. Its symbolic representations can be found in numerous cultures, from North America to the far East.
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer
Garden Usage
The Dianthus genus includes many well-known flowers such as carnation and sweet William. Dianthus are herbaceous and favor the temperate climates of their native homes of Europe and Asia. Most species are hardy perennials. However, there are also several which are annual., Grown commercially on cut flower farms, Dianthus is planted directly in the ground and can be found growing outdoors or undercover for added protection. Popular cultivars used for floristry include perpetual carnations that flower throughout the growing season. However, species of Dianthus also make lovely additions to any herbaceous garden border. We can enjoy the colorful blooms of Dianthus from late spring all the way through the autumn months, or at least up until the first frosts.
Naked-man orchid
Naked-man orchid is a unique orchid found throughout the Mediterranean that has flowers that are shaped like naked men (hence the common name). In Italy, there is a folk belief that this orchid can improve virility.
Bloom Time
All year around
Garden Usage
Naked-man orchid grows well containers for indoor decoration. In the tropics, it can also be grown outdoors. Its colorful flowers and long blooming period can create elegance and beauty in your house. Some orchid flowers, such as the Dendrobium genus, are not only graceful but have a pleasant fragrance. Naked-man orchid blooms along a slender flower stem that may be used as ornamental cut flowers in vases. It is somewhat fussy about its environment, requiring you to satisfy strict needs for sun, water, and temperature.
Cast-iron plant
Cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior) is a flowering plant native to Japan. The cast-iron plant attracts insects particularly fungus gnats. Cast-iron plant is a common household with a reputation for surviving long periods of neglect by owners.
Bloom Time
Spring, Winter
Small Philippine Acacia
Small Philippine Acacia (Acacia confusa) is a perennial tree native to southeast Asia that has proliferated in tropical places around the globe and caused problems as an invasive species. However, its wood has also been put to use, for example as support beams for underground mines in China., Small Philippine Acacia is native to the Philippines and China and an invasive species in the United States. The fast-growing tree can reach heights up to 15 m with a thick leafy canopy. The thick leaves block sunlight from reaching native plants. The tree also has a deep taproot that spreads out in search of water in dry conditions. It can easily deplete moisture from the soil, depriving other species. It spreads by seeding and often grows in clusters further pushing native plant life out of its habitat. When allowed to grow as a thicket, the plant can disrupt local wildlife.
Bloom Time
Spring, winter
Blue jacaranda
Blue jacaranda (Jacaranda mimosifolia) is a plant species native to southern South America. Blue jacaranda grows in many cities around the world. Pretoria, South Africa is known as the Jacaranda City. The blue jacaranda is often referenced in songs and literature.
Bloom Time
Spring
View More Plants
Related Articles
Useful Tips
Most Common Tree
Plant Collection Most Common Tree White mulberry See More A unique and easy-to-grow edible landscaping plant, the White mulberry is prized for its tasty fruits as well as its exquisite ornamental appeal. Originally native to China, this plant was valued for its role in silk production: silkworms will only eat the leaves of White mulberryContinue reading “Most Common Tree”
Read More ![more]()
Useful Tips
Best Perennial Plant to Grow
Plant Collection Best Perennial Plant to Grow Orange daylily See More The Orange daylily is a perennial plant known for its captivating lily-like blooms. Its natural habitats are meadows and forests, but it is also a common garden plant in temperate regions around the world. Each individual flower lasts only a day, but the plantContinue reading “Best Perennial Plant to Grow”
Read More ![more]()
Useful Tips
Best Perennial Plant to Grow
Plant Collection Best Perennial Plant to Grow China rose See More The China rose (Rosa chinensis) is a Southwest China native. The plant has been cultivated for so long that it has become hard to tell the difference between wild and cultivated varieties. With medium-sized clusters of flowers and a long blooming season, it isContinue reading “Best Perennial Plant to Grow”
Read More ![more]()
Useful Tips
Most Common Tree
Plant Collection Most Common Tree White mulberry See More A unique and easy-to-grow edible landscaping plant, the White mulberry is prized for its tasty fruits as well as its exquisite ornamental appeal. Originally native to China, this plant was valued for its role in silk production: silkworms will only eat the leaves of White mulberryContinue reading “Most Common Tree”
Read More ![more]()
View More Articles
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Your Ultimate Guide to Plants
Identify, grow, and nurture the better way!
17,000 local species +400,000 global species studied
Nearly 5 years of research
80+ scholars in botany and gardening
Botanist in your pocket
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up
Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google
Logged in!
About
Care Guide
Care FAQ
Pests & Diseases
Distribution
More Info
Related Plants
Related Articles
Add to My Garden Magenta cherry
Syzygium paniculatum
Also known as: Magenta lilly pilly, Australian water pear
Every 1-2 weeks
Water
Full sun
Sunlight
Care Guide for Magenta cherry
Fertilization
Fertilize your magenta cherry a few times each year to ensure that it grows at a faster rate and produces high-quality fruits and flowers. You can supplement the soil with organic fertilizer or add a nitrogen-high fertilizer to the soil along with watering. Feed this tree during the spring and summer rather than during its dormancy.
Soil
Sand, Loam, Clay
Sunlight
Full sun, Partial sun
Hardiness Zones
9 to 11
Planting Time
Spring
Tips, advice, and instructions for over 13,000 species that you will find nowhere else
Magenta cherry
Syzygium paniculatum
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
9 to 11
Planting Time
Spring
Download
Questions About Magenta cherry
Watering Pruning Temperature Fertilizing What is the best way to water my Magenta cherry?
Free
What should I do if I water my Magenta cherry too much or too little?
Free
How often should I water my Magenta cherry?
Free
How much water does my Magenta cherry need?
How can I tell if i'm watering my Magenta cherry enough?
Show More ![more]()
You’ve got questions. We’ve got answers.
Let us help take all the guesswork out of your gardening.
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Magenta cherry based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More ![more]()
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Learn More ![more]()
Fruit rot
Soft rot in the fruit can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: Prune out and destroy infected spurs and branches. Correct spacing between plants to reduce wind-born infection. Chemical fungicides may become necessary. Bird deterrents and biological or chemical treatments for insects will reduce fruit damage, making it harder for fungal infections to take hold.
Learn More ![more]()
Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Solutions: There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
Learn More ![more]()
Keep your leafy friends healthy and happy.
Diagnose your plant, and learn how to prevent and treat plant diseases.
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
- Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
- Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
- Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
- Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
- Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
- Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
- Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
- Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
Fruit rot
Soft rot in the fruit can have a variety of causes.
Overview
Fruit rot is quite common, and there are a large number of factors that can lie at the heart of this problem. Symptoms also vary from fruit to fruit and from cause to cause, but in general, one can recognize fruit that is rotten or starting to rot. Many of the most common causes of rotting are related to fungal diseases, which enter the fruit through wounds such as those caused by birds. The disease then spreads outwards from the wound. From there it can spread to neighboring fruit or be carried by the wind to plants further away.
Symptom Analysis
Below are some of the broader symptoms to look out for in cases of fruit rot. If this occurs on just one or two fruit it may just be as the result of a small-scale infection, but if it is widespread then a fungal infection problem is likely.
- Small brown spots appear on the fruit.
- Brown spots expand, normally in concentric circles and the center starts to go soft and mushy.
- Mushiness spreads and grey or brown powdery pustules start to coat the fruit.
- Some fruit will drop but others may remain and gradually turn mummified.
Disease Cause
Fruit rot is often caused by fungal infection. These fungi overwinter on fallen fruit, and then the spores are spread by the wind the following spring. Birds and sap-sucking insects can also act as vectors. Entry to new fruit is made considerably easier if there are wounds of any kind through which the spores can penetrate the skin. The healthier the tree or plant, the better able it is to defend itself from infection.
Solutions
- Prune out and destroy infected spurs and branches.
- Correct spacing between plants to reduce wind-born infection.
- Chemical fungicides may become necessary.
- Bird deterrents and biological or chemical treatments for insects will reduce fruit damage, making it harder for fungal infections to take hold.
Prevention
To prevent pests and disease infection:
- Pick fruits on time. Remove fruit once ripe to prevent opportunities for pests and fungal infections to take hold.
- Rake and clean debris. Remove and bury surrounding plant material that may host diseases.
- Prune branches and thin fruit. Remove ripening fruits so they do not touch one another and prune branches to improve air circulation (reducing the wet conditions in which fungi thrive).
- Consider preventative use of fungicide prior to fruit forming.
To prevent nutrient deficiency that weakens the plant:
- Add mulch. Adding a layer of mulch on top of the soil early in the season will keep moisture even.
- Use organic fertilizer. Plants given ammonia-based fertilizer cannot uptake calcium efficiently. Use compost, fish emulsion, liquid kelp or other organic fertilizer.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Overview
Nutrient deficiencies can be seen in many different ways on plants. Basically, the lack of nutrients will inhibit plant growth, produce weak stems and leaves, and leave plants open to infection from pests and diseases. Plants use the nutrients from the soil to help them with photosynthesis. This, in turn, produces healthy plant growth. Plants that lack adequate amounts of nutrients will look lackluster and unhealthy. Eventually, if this is not addressed, it will cause the plants to die. The most important nutrients that plants need are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Additionally, plants require small amounts of micronutrients such as iron, boron, manganese, zinc, copper, and molybdenum.
Symptom Analysis
A common sign that plants are experiencing nutrient deficiencies is the yellowing of leaves. This may be an overall yellowing or leaves that are yellow but still have green veins. These leaves will eventually brown off and die.
Another sign is the loss of plant vigor. The plants may not be growing as well as they should or their growth may be stunted.
Below are some common symptoms that appear when plants are lacking in nutrients.
Nitrogen (N): Inner, older leaves yellow first. If the deficiency is severe, yellowing progresses outward to newer growth.
Potassium (K): Leaf edges may turn brown and crinkly, with a yellowing layer forming just inside of the edge. Older leaves tend to be impacted first.
Phosphorus (P): Lack of vigorous growth. Plants will appear stunted.
Zinc (Zn): Yellowing tends to occur first at the base of the leaf.
Copper (Cu): Newer leaves begin to yellow first, with older leaves yellowing only if the deficiency becomes severe.
Boron (B): Newer leaves are impacted first. Foliage may also become particularly brittle in cases of boron deficiency.
Disease Cause
There are several factors that can lead to nutrient deficiencies, a situation where plants are not receiving the nutrients that they need. This could be because they are planted in nutrient-deficient soils, or that the soil's pH is too high or low. Incorrect soil pH can lock up certain nutrients, thus making them unavailable to plants. Lack of soil moisture can also be a problem, because plants need water to be able to absorb the nutrients from the soil.
Solutions
There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils.
- Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies.
- Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy.
- Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly.
- Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
Prevention
There are several easy ways to prevent nutrient deficiencies in plants.
- Regular fertilizing. Regular addition of fertilizer to the soil is one of the simplest and most effective ways to prevent deficiencies.
- Proper watering. Both over and under watering can adversely impact a plant's roots, which in turn makes it harder for them to properly take up nutrients.
- Testing the soil's pH. A soil's acidity or alkalinity will impact the degree to which certain nutrients are available to be taken up by plants. Knowing the soil's pH means it can be amended to suit the needs of the individual plants.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
Distribution Map
Habitat
Rain forests
Map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info
Plant Type
Shrub, Tree
Flower Color
White
Bloom Time
Spring, Early summer
Leaf Color
Green
Red
Purple
Name story
Brush cherry
The common name magenta cherry refers to its edible, magenta-colored fruit, which is crisp and juicy and very refreshing to hikers in the wild. It is tastier, however, when made into jam or jelly.
Usages
Garden Use
Magenta cherry is a flowering evergreen shrub that is valued as a garden plant due to its glossy leaves, attractive blossoms, and ornamental fruits. In gardens, this species grows best in full sun, but can tolerate shade. The magenta cherry may attract birds, which feed upon its fruit. It is popularly used for topiary and hedging.
Scientific Classification
Phylum
Vascular plants Class
Dicotyledons Order
Myrtle order Family
Myrtle Genus
Lillipillies Species
Magenta cherry Related Plants
Related Articles
Most Common Tree
# Useful Tips
Best Perennial Plant to Grow
# Useful Tips
Best Perennial Plant to Grow
# Useful Tips
Most Common Tree
# Useful Tips
Discover more articles?
Read More 
Your Ultimate Guide to Plants
Identify, grow, and nurture the better way!
17,000 local species +400,000 global species studied
Nearly 5 years of research
80+ scholars in botany and gardening
Sign in/sign up
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
