
































Care Guide for Bald cypress




























Questions About Bald cypress



















More Questions People Also Ask


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Common Pests & Diseases

























- Pathogens on young twigs and foliage cause disease
- Stressed and unhealthy trees are more susceptible - root injury due to physical or insect damage, infection, or aging can prevent adequate absorption of water and nutrients
- Extremely wet conditions including sprinkler watering can attract fungus
- Fungi can be transmitted between nearby trees

- Inspect trees frequently, and remove any infected branches as soon as possible. Branch blight cannot be cured, so the only treatment is to prune the tree and monitor it carefully for signs of the disease.
- All affected parts of the tree should be removed, since blight can survive over the winter inside the plant’s tissues.
- Blight can become systemic in the tree, in which case the entire plant should be removed so it does not remain a host for the pathogen and allow it to spread.

- Avoid purchasing trees with dead or dying growth.
- Sterilize cutting tools frequently when pruning to avoid spreading fungus between plants.
- Keep trees mulched and watered, especially during dry periods, to prevent stress.
- Avoid splashing water on the leaves when watering, as wet foliage is attractive to fungi and bacteria.
- When planting, allow enough room between trees that there will be sufficient air circulation for them to dry out. Crowding trees too close together can increase humidity and allow the fungi to transfer.
- When conditions are wet and humid, a fungicide can be used on new growth.





- Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
- Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
- Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
- Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
- Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
- Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
- Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
- Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
- Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.

- Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
- Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
- Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
- Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
- Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.

- Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
- Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
- Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
- Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.






- Spots may appear on fruits as well as leaves and other aboveground areas of the plant
- Small black specks appear on infected fruits (spots are less than 1/16” in diameter)
- Spots are raised with distinct margins, developing into sunken pits as the fruit matures
- Fruit tissue near the spot stays green longer than the rest of the fruit
- Spots are dark brown to black in color, with nearby spots often growing together
- Spots are large, sometimes larger than 1.3 cm
- Some spots may look like targets with a brown to greyish coloration
- Older spots are black and raised with lobed borders
- Spots are superficial only, not penetrating into the seed cavity
- Spots may turn into sunken pits, turning into craters as they get older
- The skin of the fruit can be cracked and produce a water-soaked border
- Some spots may ooze a gelatinous substance


- Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot.
- Improve air circulation and drainage
- Fertilize as needed
- Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.

- Rotate crops - do not plant the same kind of plant in the same spot each year, instead switching out locations every two to three years
- Use disease-free seeds and transplants - using a hot water treatment to sterilize seeds before planting can also be effective
- Irrigate early in the day to give plants time to dry off before nightfall
- Avoid working around plants when they are wet
- Control weeds
- Remove debris or plow it under at the end of the growing season
- Fertilize with higher amounts of nitrogen and use less calcium
- Plant resistant cultivars when available
- Do not clip plants when transplanting
- Dispose of affected plant parts immediately (do not compost)








- Remove infected tissue. Established trees can survive a crown gall infection, but the galls should be removed to improve the plant's appearance. Use pruning shears to remove the gall, then treat the wound with a pruning sealer. Discard pruned material by putting it in the trash or burning it to avoid infecting other plants. Sterilize the pruning shears after removing the galls.
- Remove the entire plant. If a small plant is infected with a serious case of crown gall, the best option is to remove the entire plant and burn it. This will prevent bacteria from spreading to other plants.
- Sterilize the soil. After removing infected tissue, sterilize the soil using heat. Alternatively, plant a gall-resistant plant in the same spot.

- Avoid infected plants. Inspect all new plants for symptoms. Dispose of any plants that show signs of crown gall.
- Sanitize pruning tools. Use an approved sanitizing solution to treat pruning shears both before and after use. A freshly-mixed solution of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water will be most effective.
- Avoid mounding soil around the crown of the plant, keeping this area as dry as possible. Remove dead branches and leaves to prevent the occurrence of pests and diseases.
- Utilize beneficial bacteria. The beneficial bacterium Agrobacterium radiobacter strain 84 can be used during planting to prevent crown gall. To use, simply dip bare-rooted plants in the solution, or water rooted plants with a solution of the aforementioned bacteria.
- Correct overly alkaline soils. Crown gall-causing bacteria thrive in alkaline soils, so check the pH level of the soil and reduce the alkalinity.






- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases


- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.







- Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
- Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
- Using fast-draining growing media such as sand


- Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
- Avoid warm temperatures
- Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
- Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly



Distribution Map
Habitat



More Info




Name story
Symbolism
Usages
Scientific Classification


Related Plants







Related Articles

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Plant Collection Most Common Tree White mulberry See More A unique and easy-to-grow edible landscaping plant, the White mulberry is prized for its tasty fruits as well as its exquisite ornamental appeal. Originally native to China, this plant was valued for its role in silk production: silkworms will only eat the leaves of White mulberryContinue reading “Most Common Tree”
















Care Guide for Bald cypress














Questions About Bald cypress















More Questions People Also Ask


More About How-Tos

Common Pests & Diseases































- Pathogens on young twigs and foliage cause disease
- Stressed and unhealthy trees are more susceptible - root injury due to physical or insect damage, infection, or aging can prevent adequate absorption of water and nutrients
- Extremely wet conditions including sprinkler watering can attract fungus
- Fungi can be transmitted between nearby trees

- Inspect trees frequently, and remove any infected branches as soon as possible. Branch blight cannot be cured, so the only treatment is to prune the tree and monitor it carefully for signs of the disease.
- All affected parts of the tree should be removed, since blight can survive over the winter inside the plant’s tissues.
- Blight can become systemic in the tree, in which case the entire plant should be removed so it does not remain a host for the pathogen and allow it to spread.

- Avoid purchasing trees with dead or dying growth.
- Sterilize cutting tools frequently when pruning to avoid spreading fungus between plants.
- Keep trees mulched and watered, especially during dry periods, to prevent stress.
- Avoid splashing water on the leaves when watering, as wet foliage is attractive to fungi and bacteria.
- When planting, allow enough room between trees that there will be sufficient air circulation for them to dry out. Crowding trees too close together can increase humidity and allow the fungi to transfer.
- When conditions are wet and humid, a fungicide can be used on new growth.
unlimited guides at your fingertips...





- Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
- Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
- Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
- Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
- Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
- Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
- Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
- Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
- Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.

- Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
- Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
- Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
- Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
- Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.

- Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
- Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
- Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
- Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
unlimited guides at your fingertips...






- Spots may appear on fruits as well as leaves and other aboveground areas of the plant
- Small black specks appear on infected fruits (spots are less than 1/16” in diameter)
- Spots are raised with distinct margins, developing into sunken pits as the fruit matures
- Fruit tissue near the spot stays green longer than the rest of the fruit
- Spots are dark brown to black in color, with nearby spots often growing together
- Spots are large, sometimes larger than 1.3 cm
- Some spots may look like targets with a brown to greyish coloration
- Older spots are black and raised with lobed borders
- Spots are superficial only, not penetrating into the seed cavity
- Spots may turn into sunken pits, turning into craters as they get older
- The skin of the fruit can be cracked and produce a water-soaked border
- Some spots may ooze a gelatinous substance


- Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot.
- Improve air circulation and drainage
- Fertilize as needed
- Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.

- Rotate crops - do not plant the same kind of plant in the same spot each year, instead switching out locations every two to three years
- Use disease-free seeds and transplants - using a hot water treatment to sterilize seeds before planting can also be effective
- Irrigate early in the day to give plants time to dry off before nightfall
- Avoid working around plants when they are wet
- Control weeds
- Remove debris or plow it under at the end of the growing season
- Fertilize with higher amounts of nitrogen and use less calcium
- Plant resistant cultivars when available
- Do not clip plants when transplanting
- Dispose of affected plant parts immediately (do not compost)
unlimited guides at your fingertips...








- Remove infected tissue. Established trees can survive a crown gall infection, but the galls should be removed to improve the plant's appearance. Use pruning shears to remove the gall, then treat the wound with a pruning sealer. Discard pruned material by putting it in the trash or burning it to avoid infecting other plants. Sterilize the pruning shears after removing the galls.
- Remove the entire plant. If a small plant is infected with a serious case of crown gall, the best option is to remove the entire plant and burn it. This will prevent bacteria from spreading to other plants.
- Sterilize the soil. After removing infected tissue, sterilize the soil using heat. Alternatively, plant a gall-resistant plant in the same spot.

- Avoid infected plants. Inspect all new plants for symptoms. Dispose of any plants that show signs of crown gall.
- Sanitize pruning tools. Use an approved sanitizing solution to treat pruning shears both before and after use. A freshly-mixed solution of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water will be most effective.
- Avoid mounding soil around the crown of the plant, keeping this area as dry as possible. Remove dead branches and leaves to prevent the occurrence of pests and diseases.
- Utilize beneficial bacteria. The beneficial bacterium Agrobacterium radiobacter strain 84 can be used during planting to prevent crown gall. To use, simply dip bare-rooted plants in the solution, or water rooted plants with a solution of the aforementioned bacteria.
- Correct overly alkaline soils. Crown gall-causing bacteria thrive in alkaline soils, so check the pH level of the soil and reduce the alkalinity.
unlimited guides at your fingertips...






- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases


- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
unlimited guides at your fingertips...







- Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
- Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
- Using fast-draining growing media such as sand


- Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
- Avoid warm temperatures
- Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
- Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
unlimited guides at your fingertips...


Distribution Map
Habitat
Map


More Info




Name story
Symbolism
Usages
Scientific Classification


Related Plants

Related Articles














unlimited guides at your fingertips...



































































1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.























































