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Western red cedar
Western red cedar
Western red cedar
Western red cedar
Western red cedar
Western red cedar
Western red cedar
Thuja plicata
Western red cedar (Thuja plicata) is a cedar tree species native to the western United States. Despite its name, the western red cedar is not considered a true cedar. Instead, it belongs to the Cypress family. This species is commercially used to make decks, siding, and the soundboards of guitars.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
5 to 9
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care guide

Care Guide for Western red cedar

Watering Care
Watering Care
The Western red cedar should be watered regularly after planting because newly planted trees aren't able to take up water immediately after planting. This exposes them to drought stress. The soil should be kept consistently moist in the months after planting. When the top layer of soil is dry, it is time to water again.
Details on Watering Care Watering Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilizing Care
The western red cedar should be fertilized the spring after its first planting. It should be fertilized with a high-nitrogen fertilizer; a 16-8-8 nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium formulated fertilizer is ideal for this plant.
Details on Fertilizing Care Fertilizing Care
Pruning
Pruning
Trim the dead, diseased, overgrown branches in winter.
Details on Pruning Pruning
Soil Care
Soil Care
Loam, Clay, Sand, Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
Ideal Lighting
Ideal Lighting
Full sun, Partial sun
Details on Sunlight Requirements Ideal Lighting
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Western red cedar
Water
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
5 to 9
question

Questions About Western red cedar

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Western red cedar?
If you decide to water your Western red cedar, you will be happy to find that it is a straightforward task. One of the easiest ways to water this tree is by simply turning on your garden hose and using it to soak the soil slowly. Your garden hose is the ideal watering tool to use for mature Western red cedar trees, as large specimens may need a high volume of water during each watering. However, for smaller trees, you may get by by using a watering can or some other smaller watering tool. Also, you should try to avoid overhead watering as excessive moisture on this plant’s leaves can lead to disease, especially when the tree is young.
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What should I do if I water my Western red cedar too much or too little?
At times, overwatering can be the result of poor soils. Mainly, if the soil in which your Western red cedar grows does not allow water to drain effectively, the plant will likely begin to decline. If this is the case, you should either amend the soil to improve its drainage characteristics or transplant your Western red cedar to a more favorable growing location. If you grow your Western red cedar in a pot, this can also mean you may need to repot your plant with looser soils in a container that allows for better drainage. An overwatered plant may also contract diseases, which you should try to treat immediately. For an underwatered Western red cedar, the remedy is quite simple. Begin watering more often, and soon your plant will bounce back and return to full health.
The easiest way to tell if you have overwatered your Western red cedar is to observe the plant’s foliage. Specifically, looking at the new growth will give the clearest sign of whether this plant suffers from too much moisture. An overwatered Western red cedar may produce new growth, but that new growth may be discolored or prone to easy breakage. Another sign that the soil for your Western red cedar is too moist is if you notice standing water or that water is not draining quickly in your plant’s growing area. Underwatered Western red cedar trees will also have symptoms present in the foliage. In this case, the leaves may become sparse, brown. Usually, Western red cedar can grow well with rainfulls. If you see such symptoms on your plant, you should consider if there has been too much rain recently or constantly high temperatures, which will help you to make the correct judgment.
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How often should I water my Western red cedar?
A mature Western red cedar does not need much water at all. In most instances, this tree will become drought tolerant and survive off of nothing more than rainfall. At most, you’ll need to water this plant about once per week during the hottest months of the year, but during other seasons, you probably won’t need to water it at all. The exception to that rule is if you are dealing with a plant that has been newly planted. If that is the case, you should water regularly to maintain consistent soil moisture and help the roots establish themselves. With that said, the most important thing to remember when watering Western red cedar is that this species does not tolerate standing water. As such, when in doubt, you should err on the side of not watering your Western red cedar rather than risking watering it too much.
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How much water does my Western red cedar need?
The height of summer is one of the few times that you’ll need to water your Western red cedar. At that time of year, it is typical to give this plant about one inch of water per week. However, that amount can change depending on how much it has rained. If it has rained one inch or more that week, you won’t need to give any water to your Western red cedar.newly planted Western red cedar will need more water during the establishment period. Typically, this amounts to watering about once every one to two weeks for the first few growing seasons.
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How should I water my Western red cedar through the seasons?
The Western red cedar tree will need the most water during the summer months when the weather is the hottest. At that time, you should give this plant water about once per week in the absence of rainfall. During other times of the year, this plant will often survive with no water at all. In spring and fall, you might need to provide some water if the weather is exceptionally hot, but this is rare. Unlike many other plants, the Western red cedar does not enter full dormancy in winter, which means that it will continue growing, during the coldest months. Still, the water needs during winter will remain quite low as the cool temperatures will not cause the soil to dry out quickly..
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How should I water my Western red cedar at different growth stages?
Young Western red cedar trees need significantly more water than those that are established. A newly planted tree should receive water at least weekly to ensure that the soil remains moist to facilitate root development. After the first growing season, your Western red cedar should be well-adapted to its new growing location and should need much less water. At this time, you can begin following the standard instructions for watering this species, providing supplemental water about once per week during summer when it does not rain. Beyond that, there is no other time at which you’ll need to alter your watering habits based on the growth stages of the Western red cedar tree.
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What's the difference between watering Western red cedar indoors and outdoors?
It is far more common to grow the Western red cedar in an outdoor growing location. However, it is also possible to grow this plant indoors in a container. In that scenario, one gardener often raise the Western red cedar as the bonsai plant. Whether you grow this plant indoors or outdoors, you can expect its water needs to remain relatively similar. The one difference is that you may need to water an indoor Western red cedar tree a bit more. Indoor plants won’t have access to rainfall during the summer. Also, indoor areas are often much drier than outdoor growing locations, and the size of the pots limits the water-retainability, which can lead to higher water needs.
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Key Facts About Western red cedar

Attributes of Western red cedar

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Tree
Planting Time
Fall
Bloom Time
Spring
Harvest Time
Fall
Plant Height
65 m to 70 m
Spread
4.5 m to 6 m
Leaf Color
Green
Yellow
Variegated
Flower Size
1 mm to 3 mm
Flower Color
Yellow
Green
Black
Fruit Color
Brown
Green
Copper
Stem Color
Green
Dormancy
Winter dormancy
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
5 - 35 ℃
Growth Season
Spring, Summer
Pollinators
Wind
Benefits to Pollinating Insects
Larval food

Name story

Western red cedar
In most authorities, both in Canada and the United States cite the English name as western red cedar or occasionally hyphenated as western red-cedar to indicate it is not a true cedar (Cedrus). However, the wood texture that the plant produces is similar to that of Cedrus and it is reddish-brown as well.

Symbolism

Strength

Usages

Garden Use
Western red cedar is a popular evergreen tree prized for its shape and beautiful green drooping needles. It is used in yards as a decorative tree, but can also be planted in stands to form a natural barrier. It is an essential plant in large, natural evergreen gardens. Plant it with ferns and hostas to add color and texture at the base.

Scientific Classification of Western red cedar

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Western red cedar

Common issues for Western red cedar based on 10 million real cases
Dieback
Dieback Dieback
Dieback
There are several possible causes for dieback.
Solutions: There are a few things to try when dieback becomes apparent: Fertilize and water the plants - these two steps, along with judicious pruning, can help reduce the stress on the root system and encourage renewed vigor Have an arborist check to see if plant roots are girdling Test soil pH and adjust accordingly Remove and destroy infected twigs and branches
Branch blight
Branch blight Branch blight
Branch blight
Branch blight can cause lignified branches to dry up entirely and die.
Solutions: Inspect trees frequently, and remove any infected branches as soon as possible. Branch blight cannot be cured, so the only treatment is to prune the tree and monitor it carefully for signs of the disease. All affected parts of the tree should be removed, since blight can survive over the winter inside the plant’s tissues. Blight can become systemic in the tree, in which case the entire plant should be removed so it does not remain a host for the pathogen and allow it to spread.
Flower withering
Flower withering Flower withering
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
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Dieback
plant poor
Dieback
There are several possible causes for dieback.
Overview
Overview
Dealing with dieback in plants can be tricky, in part because this is both the name of a disease itself and a common symptom of many other types of diseases. Dieback can be characterized by the progressive, gradual death of shoots, twigs, roots, and branches, generally starting first at the tips.
In many cases, dieback is caused by fungi or bacteria. These pathogens can produce cankers, wilts, stem or root rots, and even anthracnose, but the most common symptom, of course, is that various plant parts (or the entire plant) will begin to die back.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The symptoms of dieback can be gradual or slightly more abrupt. Usually, however, they are slow in developing and tend to be uniform among the various parts of a plant.
Some plants may have more localized symptoms, with all twigs affected or all branches affected but not the rest of the plant. Some potential symptoms include:
  • Dead or dying branches and twigs
  • Dieback that starts in the top of a plant and progresses downward (though it can start lower, especially for conifers)
  • A delayed flush of growth in the spring
  • Leaf margins become scorched
  • Pale green or yellow leaves
  • Leaves that are small or otherwise distorted
  • Early leaf drop
  • Reduced growth of twigs and stems
  • Thinning of crown foliage
  • Production of suckers on trunk and branches
  • Premature fall coloration (in tree species like birch, sweetgum, maple, oak, ash, etc)
The symptoms of dieback can occur within just one season or become worse each and every year.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are several types of dieback, each of which has a different cause with which it is associated.
"dieback" as a standalone issue, including the condition known as Staghead, is caused by fungal or bacterial infections. Staghead is a slow dieback that occurs on the upper branches of a tree, named as such because the dead limbs look much like the head of a stag.
Other causes of dieback symptoms include:
  • Cankers or wilts
  • Stem or root rots
  • Nematodes
  • Stem or root boring insects
  • Pavement being placed over root systems
  • Winter injury from cold
  • Salt damage
  • Lack of moisture (or excess of moisture)
  • Lack of an essential nutrient or element
Trees and shrubs that are attacked by insects, exposed to extremely high or low temperatures, or experience severe and frequent fluctuations in soil moisture are the most likely to suffer from dieback. These stress factors alone or in combination with each other can reduce leaf and shoot growth, and progress into death of twigs and branches.
Although any of these issues can lead to dieback, the most serious consequences tend to occur when the roots of a plant are damaged. Similarly, trees and shrubs that are planted improperly or in unfavorable locations are more likely to develop this condition.
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Branch blight
plant poor
Branch blight
Branch blight can cause lignified branches to dry up entirely and die.
Overview
Overview
"Blight" is an umbrella term used to describe a category of tree diseases caused by fungus or bacteria. Branch blight occurs when fungus attacks the branches and twigs of a tree, resulting in branches slowly dying off.
Branch blight can affect most species of trees to some degree, and it may be called by different names including twig blight or stem blight. It is caused by a variety of fungi which attack branches first, especially immature growth.
Blight usually occurs in warm, humid conditions, so is most common in the spring and summer months. Because specific environmental conditions are required, the frequency of branch blight can vary from year to year. This makes the disease hard to control, as it can spread between trees and affect multiple plants in a short period of time.
In the worst-case scenario, trees can lose significant portions of their foliage and fail to produce fruit. Young or unhealthy trees could die off completely.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first symptoms of branch blight are that the emerging foliage turns brown or gray at the tips, especially on the smallest branches. Brown spots cover the entire surface of the leaves, eventually causing leaves and stems to shrivel and fall off. Over time, the dying tissue will spread toward the center of the plant. If left untreated, spores from the attacking fungus may appear on dying foliage within 3-4 weeks of the infection.
In some cases, lesions may form at the spot where the twig branches off from the healthy tissue. Branches may display girdling, which is a band of damaged tissue encircling the branch. An untreated tree will eventually lose all of its foliage and die.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
  • Pathogens on young twigs and foliage cause disease
  • Stressed and unhealthy trees are more susceptible - root injury due to physical or insect damage, infection, or aging can prevent adequate absorption of water and nutrients
  • Extremely wet conditions including sprinkler watering can attract fungus
  • Fungi can be transmitted between nearby trees
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Flower withering
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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distribution

Distribution of Western red cedar

Habitat of Western red cedar

Small groves in moist to swampy soils, shady forests
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Western red cedar

Western red cedar is native to the Pacific US and Canada, where it grows on moist slopes, riverbanks, and flatlands. It has been introduced in western and northern Europe.
distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
habit
care_scenes

More Info on Western Red Cedar Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
Western red cedar thrives under full, unobstructed solar exposure but can also accommodate to a part-shaded environment. Originating from locations abundant in solar light, it manages well throughout varying stages of development. Excessive or lack of sun can however affect its optimal growth and healthiness.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
-20 - 38 ℃
The native growth environment of western red cedar requires a temperature range of 5 to 35 ℃ (41 to 95 ℉). Within this range, western red cedar prefers cooler temperatures and can tolerate winter lows down to -40 ℃ (-40 ℉) with adequate winter protection. During the summer months, it is recommended to provide shaded areas and consistent moisture to prevent heat stress.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
1.5-2 m
The best time to transplant western red cedar is during the sweet spot of early spring to early summer, ensuring optimal growth. Choose a location with good drainage and plenty of sunlight. Gently loosen the roots before transplanting, and provide ample water initially for a thriving western red cedar display.
Transplant Techniques
Pruning
Winter
This coniferous evergreen is valued for its dense foliage and tall stature. Key pruning techniques for western red cedar include selective thinning cuts to maintain shape and improve air circulation. Ideal pruning occurs in winter, avoiding heavy cuts to preserve the natural form. Specific considerations involve pruning only when necessary to prevent disease, with benefits including enhanced growth and appearance. Pruning tools should be sanitized to prevent infection.
Pruning techniques
Feng shui direction
Northeast
Western red cedar, or Western red cedar, resonates well with Northeast-facing environments. This is based on traditional Feng Shui principles associating the plant's upward growth and wood element, hinting at prosperity, to the Northeast's Earth element, signifying stability. To ensure harmony, one should carefully consider the placement and wellbeing of western red cedar.
Fengshui Details
other_plant

Plants Related to Western red cedar

Blackwood
Blackwood
Blackwood (Acacia melanoxylon) is a deciduous tree that's also known as the "Black Wattle," "Lightwood," and "Tasmanian Blackwood." It's a member of the Legume family, which also includes peas and beans. Blackwood is a native of Australia. It's also found in a small part of the eastern coast of the United States.
Chameleon plant
Chameleon plant
Chameleon plant (Houttuynia cordata) is a perennial low-growing shrub. In spring, its leaves burst forth with a kaleidoscopic mix of red, green, and white coloration. The name "chameleon" references the plant's colorful nature. In summer, beautiful white flowers with bristle-like centers bloom. Chameleon plant is common in Vietnamese and Chinese cuisine.
Ribwort plantain
Ribwort plantain
Ribwort plantain grows in a number of different habitats as long as it has enough sunlight. Its leaves have characteristic parallel veins that make it easy to identify. The heads of ribwort plantains get popped off in some common British children's games. Its seeds are critical food sources for songbirds, and its leaves are eaten by rabbits and deer.
Lemon grass
Lemon grass
An excellent plant to use in edible landscapes is lemon grass or Cymbopogon citratus. Lemon grass has tropical origins and thrives in full sun, warm summers, and rich soil with plenty of moisture. The outer stalks are too tough for eating, but the inner stalks can be chopped or brewed into tea.
Desert rose
Desert rose
Desert rose is widely cultivated as a houseplant or as bonsai for its beautiful flowers. As a succulent plant originating from the Sahara and tropical Africa and Arabia, it requires a minimum temperature of 10 ℃ to survive. Its sap was used to poisoning arrows in Africa.
Purple nightshade
Purple nightshade
Purple nightshade (Solanum xanti) is a flowering plant species that is toxic. Purple nightshade is drought-resistant and blooms from early spring through early summer. All parts of the plants are toxic, and these qualities make it deer resistant.
Cape jasmine
Cape jasmine
Gardenia jasminoides is an evergreen shrub with unique, glossy evergreen leaves and stunning flowers. The sophisticated, matte white flowers are often used in bouquets. The exceptional beauty of this ornamental plant has made it a popular and highly appreciated plant amongst gardeners and horticulturalists.
Golden pothos
Golden pothos
The golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular houseplant that is commonly seen in Australia, Asia, and the West Indies. It goes by many nicknames, including "devil's ivy", because it is so hard to kill and can even grow in low light conditions. Golden pothos has poisonous sap, so it should be kept away from pets and children.
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Related Plants
Western red cedar
Western red cedar
Western red cedar
Western red cedar
Western red cedar
Western red cedar
Western red cedar
Thuja plicata
Western red cedar (Thuja plicata) is a cedar tree species native to the western United States. Despite its name, the western red cedar is not considered a true cedar. Instead, it belongs to the Cypress family. This species is commercially used to make decks, siding, and the soundboards of guitars.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
5 to 9
more
question

Questions About Western red cedar

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Western red cedar?
more
What should I do if I water my Western red cedar too much or too little?
more
How often should I water my Western red cedar?
more
How much water does my Western red cedar need?
more
How should I water my Western red cedar through the seasons?
more
How should I water my Western red cedar at different growth stages?
more
What's the difference between watering Western red cedar indoors and outdoors?
more
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Keep your plants happy and healthy with our guide to watering, lighting, feeding and more.
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close
plant_info

Key Facts About Western red cedar

Attributes of Western red cedar

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Tree
Planting Time
Fall
Bloom Time
Spring
Harvest Time
Fall
Plant Height
65 m to 70 m
Spread
4.5 m to 6 m
Leaf Color
Green
Yellow
Variegated
Flower Size
1 mm to 3 mm
Flower Color
Yellow
Green
Black
Fruit Color
Brown
Green
Copper
Stem Color
Green
Dormancy
Winter dormancy
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
5 - 35 ℃
Growth Season
Spring, Summer
Pollinators
Wind
Benefits to Pollinating Insects
Larval food
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Name story

Western red cedar
In most authorities, both in Canada and the United States cite the English name as western red cedar or occasionally hyphenated as western red-cedar to indicate it is not a true cedar (Cedrus). However, the wood texture that the plant produces is similar to that of Cedrus and it is reddish-brown as well.

Symbolism

Strength

Usages

Garden Use
Western red cedar is a popular evergreen tree prized for its shape and beautiful green drooping needles. It is used in yards as a decorative tree, but can also be planted in stands to form a natural barrier. It is an essential plant in large, natural evergreen gardens. Plant it with ferns and hostas to add color and texture at the base.

Scientific Classification of Western red cedar

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Western red cedar

Common issues for Western red cedar based on 10 million real cases
Dieback
Dieback Dieback Dieback
There are several possible causes for dieback.
Solutions: There are a few things to try when dieback becomes apparent: Fertilize and water the plants - these two steps, along with judicious pruning, can help reduce the stress on the root system and encourage renewed vigor Have an arborist check to see if plant roots are girdling Test soil pH and adjust accordingly Remove and destroy infected twigs and branches
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Branch blight
Branch blight Branch blight Branch blight
Branch blight can cause lignified branches to dry up entirely and die.
Solutions: Inspect trees frequently, and remove any infected branches as soon as possible. Branch blight cannot be cured, so the only treatment is to prune the tree and monitor it carefully for signs of the disease. All affected parts of the tree should be removed, since blight can survive over the winter inside the plant’s tissues. Blight can become systemic in the tree, in which case the entire plant should be removed so it does not remain a host for the pathogen and allow it to spread.
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Flower withering
Flower withering Flower withering Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
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Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
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Dieback
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Dieback
There are several possible causes for dieback.
Overview
Overview
Dealing with dieback in plants can be tricky, in part because this is both the name of a disease itself and a common symptom of many other types of diseases. Dieback can be characterized by the progressive, gradual death of shoots, twigs, roots, and branches, generally starting first at the tips.
In many cases, dieback is caused by fungi or bacteria. These pathogens can produce cankers, wilts, stem or root rots, and even anthracnose, but the most common symptom, of course, is that various plant parts (or the entire plant) will begin to die back.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The symptoms of dieback can be gradual or slightly more abrupt. Usually, however, they are slow in developing and tend to be uniform among the various parts of a plant.
Some plants may have more localized symptoms, with all twigs affected or all branches affected but not the rest of the plant. Some potential symptoms include:
  • Dead or dying branches and twigs
  • Dieback that starts in the top of a plant and progresses downward (though it can start lower, especially for conifers)
  • A delayed flush of growth in the spring
  • Leaf margins become scorched
  • Pale green or yellow leaves
  • Leaves that are small or otherwise distorted
  • Early leaf drop
  • Reduced growth of twigs and stems
  • Thinning of crown foliage
  • Production of suckers on trunk and branches
  • Premature fall coloration (in tree species like birch, sweetgum, maple, oak, ash, etc)
The symptoms of dieback can occur within just one season or become worse each and every year.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are several types of dieback, each of which has a different cause with which it is associated.
"dieback" as a standalone issue, including the condition known as Staghead, is caused by fungal or bacterial infections. Staghead is a slow dieback that occurs on the upper branches of a tree, named as such because the dead limbs look much like the head of a stag.
Other causes of dieback symptoms include:
  • Cankers or wilts
  • Stem or root rots
  • Nematodes
  • Stem or root boring insects
  • Pavement being placed over root systems
  • Winter injury from cold
  • Salt damage
  • Lack of moisture (or excess of moisture)
  • Lack of an essential nutrient or element
Trees and shrubs that are attacked by insects, exposed to extremely high or low temperatures, or experience severe and frequent fluctuations in soil moisture are the most likely to suffer from dieback. These stress factors alone or in combination with each other can reduce leaf and shoot growth, and progress into death of twigs and branches.
Although any of these issues can lead to dieback, the most serious consequences tend to occur when the roots of a plant are damaged. Similarly, trees and shrubs that are planted improperly or in unfavorable locations are more likely to develop this condition.
Solutions
Solutions
There are a few things to try when dieback becomes apparent:
  • Fertilize and water the plants - these two steps, along with judicious pruning, can help reduce the stress on the root system and encourage renewed vigor
  • Have an arborist check to see if plant roots are girdling
  • Test soil pH and adjust accordingly
  • Remove and destroy infected twigs and branches
Prevention
Prevention
The best way to prevent dieback is to match the plant to the site. Make sure the conditions provided for a new planting match its needs.
  • Plant properly in deep, fertile well-draining soil
  • Make sure plant roots won’t be confined when the plant reaches its mature size
  • Avoid changes to the growing site
  • If soil compaction might be an issue, apply a few inches of wood chips and eliminate traffic over the root area
  • Fertilize and water appropriately
It is also important to avoid potential infection with pathogens that can cause dieback:
  • Avoid binding or wounding the roots and trunk whenever possible
  • Avoid excessive pruning
  • Disinfect all tools before working with plants to reduce the spread of disease
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Branch blight
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Branch blight
Branch blight can cause lignified branches to dry up entirely and die.
Overview
Overview
"Blight" is an umbrella term used to describe a category of tree diseases caused by fungus or bacteria. Branch blight occurs when fungus attacks the branches and twigs of a tree, resulting in branches slowly dying off.
Branch blight can affect most species of trees to some degree, and it may be called by different names including twig blight or stem blight. It is caused by a variety of fungi which attack branches first, especially immature growth.
Blight usually occurs in warm, humid conditions, so is most common in the spring and summer months. Because specific environmental conditions are required, the frequency of branch blight can vary from year to year. This makes the disease hard to control, as it can spread between trees and affect multiple plants in a short period of time.
In the worst-case scenario, trees can lose significant portions of their foliage and fail to produce fruit. Young or unhealthy trees could die off completely.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first symptoms of branch blight are that the emerging foliage turns brown or gray at the tips, especially on the smallest branches. Brown spots cover the entire surface of the leaves, eventually causing leaves and stems to shrivel and fall off. Over time, the dying tissue will spread toward the center of the plant. If left untreated, spores from the attacking fungus may appear on dying foliage within 3-4 weeks of the infection.
In some cases, lesions may form at the spot where the twig branches off from the healthy tissue. Branches may display girdling, which is a band of damaged tissue encircling the branch. An untreated tree will eventually lose all of its foliage and die.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
  • Pathogens on young twigs and foliage cause disease
  • Stressed and unhealthy trees are more susceptible - root injury due to physical or insect damage, infection, or aging can prevent adequate absorption of water and nutrients
  • Extremely wet conditions including sprinkler watering can attract fungus
  • Fungi can be transmitted between nearby trees
Solutions
Solutions
  • Inspect trees frequently, and remove any infected branches as soon as possible. Branch blight cannot be cured, so the only treatment is to prune the tree and monitor it carefully for signs of the disease.
  • All affected parts of the tree should be removed, since blight can survive over the winter inside the plant’s tissues.
  • Blight can become systemic in the tree, in which case the entire plant should be removed so it does not remain a host for the pathogen and allow it to spread.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Avoid purchasing trees with dead or dying growth.
  • Sterilize cutting tools frequently when pruning to avoid spreading fungus between plants.
  • Keep trees mulched and watered, especially during dry periods, to prevent stress.
  • Avoid splashing water on the leaves when watering, as wet foliage is attractive to fungi and bacteria.
  • When planting, allow enough room between trees that there will be sufficient air circulation for them to dry out. Crowding trees too close together can increase humidity and allow the fungi to transfer.
  • When conditions are wet and humid, a fungicide can be used on new growth.
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Flower withering
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
  • Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
  • Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
  • Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
  • Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
  • Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
  • Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Aged yellow and dry
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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distribution

Distribution of Western red cedar

Habitat of Western red cedar

Small groves in moist to swampy soils, shady forests
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Western red cedar

Western red cedar is native to the Pacific US and Canada, where it grows on moist slopes, riverbanks, and flatlands. It has been introduced in western and northern Europe.
distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
plant_info

Plants Related to Western red cedar

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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Western red cedar thrives under full, unobstructed solar exposure but can also accommodate to a part-shaded environment. Originating from locations abundant in solar light, it manages well throughout varying stages of development. Excessive or lack of sun can however affect its optimal growth and healthiness.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Western red cedar thrives in full sunlight but is sensitive to heat. As a plant commonly grown outdoors with abundant sunlight, it may exhibit subtle symptoms of light deficiency when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your western red cedar may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Western red cedar enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Western red cedar thrives in full sun exposure but is sensitive to heat. Although sunburn symptoms occasionally occur, they are unable to withstand intense sunlight in high-temperature environments.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
The native growth environment of western red cedar requires a temperature range of 5 to 35 ℃ (41 to 95 ℉). Within this range, western red cedar prefers cooler temperatures and can tolerate winter lows down to -40 ℃ (-40 ℉) with adequate winter protection. During the summer months, it is recommended to provide shaded areas and consistent moisture to prevent heat stress.
Regional wintering strategies
Western red cedar has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by wrapping the trunk and branches with materials such as non-woven fabric or cloth. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in %s
Western red cedar is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, the branches may become brittle and dry during springtime, and no new shoots will emerge.
Solutions
In spring, prune away any dead branches that have failed to produce new leaves.
Symptoms of High Temperature in %s
During summer, Western red cedar should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, the tips may become dry and withered, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Western Red Cedar?
The best time to transplant western red cedar is during the sweet spot of early spring to early summer, ensuring optimal growth. Choose a location with good drainage and plenty of sunlight. Gently loosen the roots before transplanting, and provide ample water initially for a thriving western red cedar display.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Western Red Cedar?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Western Red Cedar?
Sharing a deep level of care for western red cedar, make the most of it by transplanting it during the renewing phase of early spring till inviting early summer. This harmonizes really well with its growth cycle, ensuring a great establishment and a robust growth. After all, synchronized growth with the seasons works wonders!
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Western Red Cedar Plants?
When transplanting western red cedar, it's essential to give them enough space to grow. Aim for a spacing of about 1.5-2 meters (5-6.5 feet) between each plant. This will prevent overcrowding and promote healthy growth.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Western Red Cedar Transplanting?
For western red cedar, choose a well-draining soil that's slightly acidic to neutral, with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. Mix in organic matter, like compost or aged manure, to enrich the soil with nutrients and improve its texture. This provides a strong base to support your plants' growth.
Where Should You Relocate Your Western Red Cedar?
While western red cedar can tolerate some shade, they prefer a sunny spot to grow. Choose a location that receives at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. However, providing some afternoon shade, particularly in hot climates, will also benefit the plants.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Western Red Cedar?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the soil and western red cedar.
Shovel or Spade
For digging holes in the ground suitable for transplanting western red cedar.
Gardening Trowel
To carefully extract western red cedar from its pot or seedling tray.
Watering Can
For hydrating western red cedar before and after the transplanting process.
Wheelbarrow or Gardening Cart
To transport the western red cedar from its original location to its new planting site.
Mulching Material
To help retain moisture in the soil post-transplant.
Garden Pruners
To trim any injured or decaying branches from western red cedar after transplanting.
How Do You Remove Western Red Cedar from the Soil?
From Ground: Firstly, moisten the area around the western red cedar plant with a gentle spray of water. This will make the extraction process smoother and less stressful for the plant. Dig a wide trench around western red cedar with your shovel or spade, taking care to keep the root ball intact. Slowly, ease the spade under the root ball to lift western red cedar from its original location.
From Pot: Water the western red cedar in its pot to ensure the roots are hydrated for the transplant. Turn the pot sideways, hold the plant gently by its base, and try to slide it out. If it's tough, tap the sides of the pot to loosen the soil and try again.
From Seedling Tray: Water the tray first, then use a garden trowel or similar tool to gently lift the western red cedar seedling from its current space. Make sure to scoop from underneath to include as many roots as possible.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Western Red Cedar
Preparation
Before removing the western red cedar from its current location, prepare the new planting site. Dig a hole twice as wide and the same depth as the root ball of western red cedar.
Inspection
Check the roots of western red cedar. If they are tightly wound, gently tease them loose to promote healthy root growth. Prune any damaged or dead roots.
Placement
Place western red cedar in the prepared hole. Ensure that the top of the root ball is level with the ground surface.
Backfill
Fill the hole with soil, press lightly to remove any air pockets and ensure the plant is secure.
Watering
Water western red cedar generously right after transplanting. Ensure the water is slowly absorbed, and not running off.
Mulching
Apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch around the base of the western red cedar. This will help retain moisture and control weeds.
How Do You Care For Western Red Cedar After Transplanting?
Pruning
Avoid extensive pruning immediately after transplant. Instead, wait until western red cedar is established in its new location, then prune away any damaged or dead branches. Regularly check for signs of disease or pests.
Watering
Continue watering western red cedar regularly, especially in the first few weeks post-transplant. This encourages root development and helps the plant establish itself. However, avoid overwatering as it could lead to root rot.
Frost Protection
If the transplanting has taken place close to winter, it may be necessary to protect western red cedar from frost by using a breathable cloth or plant cover.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Western Red Cedar Transplantation.
When is the ideal time to transplant western red cedar?
The perfect window to transplant western red cedar is from the early blooming months of spring to the onset of summer.
What is the ideal distance between western red cedar when transplanting them?
Offer western red cedar ample room to grow by maintaining a distance of approximately 1.5-2m or 5-6.6 ft between them.
What to do if western red cedar wilts after transplanting?
Wilting could be due to shock. Make sure the root ball is kept moist, and avoid direct sunlight for a few days.
What soil type suits western red cedar best when transplanting?
Well-drained, loamy or sandy soil is best for transplanting western red cedar. It prefers slightly acidic to neutral pH.
Can I transplant western red cedar in pots?
Yes, western red cedar can be grown in large pots. Ensure to provide adequate drainage and enough compost for good growth.
How deep should the hole be when transplanting western red cedar?
Dig a hole twice as wide and equally deep as the root ball, approximately 1-2 feet (30-60 cm) should suffice.
What should I do if the transplanted western red cedar is not growing well?
Check soil health, watering frequency, and sunlight exposure. Too much or too less of any can affect growth.
How long does it take for a transplanted western red cedar to establish?
Western red cedar might take a whole growing season to root well and show signs of new growth following transplant.
Should I fertilize western red cedar immediately after transplanting?
Avoid fertilizing just after transplanting western red cedar. Wait for few weeks and then use a slow-release, balanced fertilizer.
How often should I water a newly transplanted western red cedar?
Avoid waterlogging but keep soil consistently moist. Water deeply once a week if there is no significant rainfall.
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These cookies are set because of our use of Google Analytics. They are used to collect information about your use of our application/website. The cookies collect specific information, such as your IP address, data related to your device and other information about your use of the application/website. Please note that the data processing is essentially carried out by Google LLC and Google may use your data collected by the cookies for own purposes, e.g. profiling and will combine it with other data such as your Google Account. For more information about how Google processes your data and Google’s approach to privacy as well as implemented safeguards for your data, please see here.
Lifespan
1 Year

Cookie Name
_pta
Source
PictureThis Analytics
Purpose
We use these cookies to collect information about how you use our site, monitor site performance, and improve our site performance, our services, and your experience.
Lifespan
1 Year
Marketing Cookies
Marketing cookies are used by advertising companies to serve ads that are relevant to your interests.
Cookie Name Source Purpose Lifespan
_fbp Facebook Pixel A conversion pixel tracking that we use for retargeting campaigns. Learn more here. 1 Year
_adj Adjust This cookie provides mobile analytics and attribution services that enable us to measure and analyze the effectiveness of marketing campaigns, certain events and actions within the Application. Learn more here. 1 Year
Cookie Name
_fbp
Source
Facebook Pixel
Purpose
A conversion pixel tracking that we use for retargeting campaigns. Learn more here.
Lifespan
1 Year

Cookie Name
_adj
Source
Adjust
Purpose
This cookie provides mobile analytics and attribution services that enable us to measure and analyze the effectiveness of marketing campaigns, certain events and actions within the Application. Learn more here.
Lifespan
1 Year
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