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Add to My Garden Star jasmine
Trachelospermum jasminoides
Also known as: Southern jasmine
Star jasmine is a popular ornamental and houseplant due to its fragrant smell and relative ease of growth. This versatile plant can grow in full sun, partial shade or complete shade, making it common in a variety of climates. It prefers to climb and is generally planted on walls or fences to allow for this natural upward growth. The star jasmine is also known to attract pollinators such as bees.
Water
Every week
Sunlight
Partial sun
Care Guide for Star jasmine
Star jasmine requires plenty of water during the growing season but is rarely thirsty during fall and winter. How often to water the plant depends on the heat and climate conditions, so you might water it every three weeks in a damp climate or every ten days or so in hotter locations. It is always best to first check the dryness of the soil.
Star jasmine only needs to be fertilized during its spring and summer growth period, and may not need to be fertilized at all when grown in nutrient-rich soils outdoors. Mulching the soil at the start of the season provides added nutrients and using slow-release fertilizer granules is a simple way to fertilize the plant once a year.
Deadhead (or remove) withered flowers after flowering.
Loam, Sand, Chalky, Clay, Sandy loam, Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Potted plants should be planted in high tubular pots. Build bamboo shelves for climbing.
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Star jasmine
Water
Every week
Sunlight
Partial sun
Hardiness Zones
8 to 11
Planting Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Early summer, Fall, Early winter
Download and print this plant care card and attach it to your plants
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Star jasmine
Water
Every week
Sunlight
Partial sun
Hardiness Zones
8 to 11
Planting Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Early summer, Fall, Early winter
Download
Star jasmine
Water
Every week
Sunlight
Partial sun
Hardiness Zones
8 to 11
Planting Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Early summer, Fall, Early winter
Download
Questions About Star jasmine
Watering 
Pruning 
Sunlight 
Temperature 
Fertilizing What's the best method to water my Star jasmine?
You might want to put a garden hose at the plant base to ensure that you're promoting excellent root development. Avoid directly spraying the leaves, and know that the leaves will require more watering if they are outdoors and facing direct sunlight. You can also use bubblers that you can put on to each plant to moisten the roots. Also, use soaker hoses that can cover the entire garden or bed when adding or removing plants to push the roots deeply. Drain any excess water and wait for the soil to dry before watering. Water at ground level to prevent diseases. On a sunny day, you might want to spray the entire bush with water. Whether potted or in-ground, please remember Star jasmine prefers deep watering over light sprinkling.
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What should I do if I water Star jasmine too much/too little?
An overwatered Star jasmine can start to have leaves that turn yellow, drop off and wilt. The plant can also look dull and unhealthy, with signs of mushy stems. When they are beginning to show these signs, it's best to adjust your schedule whenever possible.
The wilting can also be a sign of under watering as well. You might see that the leaves begin to turn crispy and dry while the overwatered ones will have soft wilted leaves. Check the soil when it is dry and watering is not enough, give it a full watering in time. Enough water will make the Star jasmine recover again, but the plant will still appear dry and yellow leaves after a few days due to the damaged root system. Once it return to normal, the leave yellowing will stop .
Always check the moisture levels at the pot when you have the Star jasmine indoors. Avoid overwatering indoors and see if there are signs of black spots. If these are present, let the soil dry in the pot by giving it a few days of rest from watering.
Overwatering can lead to root rot being present in your plant. If this is the case, you might want to transfer them into a different pot, especially if you see discolored and slimy roots. Always prevent root rot as much as possible, and don't let the soil become too soggy.
You should dig a little deeper when you plant your Star jasmine outdoors. When you check with your fingers and notice that the soil is too dry, it could mean underwatering. Adequate watering is required to help the plant recover.
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How often should I water my Star jasmine?
The Star jasmine likes deep and infrequent watering. You would want to soak them in a gallon of water each time, especially when they are planted in pots. The water storage of flower pots is limited and the soil will dry out faster. Watering is required every 3 to 5 days when living in a cold region. Water it early in the morning when the soil is dry, outdoors or indoors. You can also determine if watering is needed by checking the soil inside. When the top 2-3 inches of soil is dry, it is time to give the plant a full watering. During hot days, you may need to check the moisture daily, as the heat can quickly dry out the soil in the pot.
Irrigation of the soil is also required if you have a garden. When you live in a hot climate, you might want to water once a week. Only water when you notice that about 2 to 3 inches of soil become too dry outdoors or indoors. Consider the amount of rainwater on the plant and ensure not to add to it to prevent root rot.You may not need additional watering of the plants if there is a lot of rainfall.Star jasmine generally grows during spring and fall. When they are outdoors, you need to add mulch about 3 to 4 inches deep to conserve more water.
You need to water the plants more frequently in sandy soil because this type tends to drain faster. However, with the clay one, you need to water this less frequently where you could go for 2-3 days to dry the plant and not develop any root rot. You could mark the date on the calendar whenever you water and when you notice that the leaves are starting to droop. This can mean that you might be a day late.
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How much water do I need to give my Star jasmine?
The Star jasmine generally needs about a gallon of water each schedule,With the potted plants, you might want to water them deeply until you see that the water is dripping at the bottom of the pot. Then, wait for the soil to dry before watering them again. You can use a water calculator or a moisture meter to determine the amount you've given to your plant in a week. Provide plenty of water, especially in the flowering period, but let the moisture evaporate afterwards to prevent root rot.
If Star jasmine is planted outdoor with adequate rainfall, it may not need additional watering. When Star jasmine is young or newly planted, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As Star jasmine continues to grow, it can survive entirely on rainfall. Only when the weather is too hot, or when there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving Star jasmine a full watering during the cooler moment of the day to prevent the plant from suffering from high heat damage. Additional watering will be required during persistent dry spells.
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Should I adjust the watering frequency for my Star jasmine according to different seasons or climates?
The Star jasmine needs outdoors come from rain, with only persistent dry weather requiring watering. Throughout the spring and fall growing seasons, the soil needs to be kept moist but not soggy, and alternating dry and moist soil conditions will allow the Star jasmine to grow well. Throughout the summer, hot weather can cause water to evaporate too quickly, and if there is a lack of rainfall, you will need to water more frequently and extra to keep it moist.
Usually, the Star jasmine will need less water during the winter. Since the Star jasmine will drop their leaves and go dormant, you can put them into a well-draining but moisture-retentive soil mixture like the terracotta to help the water evaporate quicker. Once your Star jasmine growing outdoors begins to leaf out and go dormant, you can skip watering altogether and in most cases Star jasmine can rely on the fall and winter rains to survive the entire dormant period.
After the spring, you can cultivate your Star jasmine and encourage it to grow and bloom when the temperature becomes warmer.This plant is not generally a fan of ponding or drought when flowering. You must ensure that the drainage is good at all times, especially during the winter.
When the plant is in a pot, the plant has limited root growth. Keep them well-watered, especially if they are planted in pots during summer. They don't like cold and wet roots, so provide adequate drainage, especially if they are still growing.
It's always best to water your Star jasmine’s diligently. Get the entire root system into a deep soak at least once or twice a week, depending on the weather. It's best to avoid shallow sprinkles that reach the leaves since they generally encourage the growth of fungi and don't reach deep into the roots. Don't allow the Star jasmine’s to dry out completely in the fall or winter, even if they are already dormancy.
Don't drown the plants because they generally don't like sitting in water for too long. They can die during winter if the soil does not drain well. Also, apply mulch whenever possible to reduce stress, conserve water, and encourage healthy blooms.
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What should I be careful with when I water my Star jasmine in different seasons, climates, or during different growing periods?
If planting in the ground, Star jasmine mostly relies on rain. However, if there is no rainfall for 2-3 weeks, you may need to give proper consideration to giving the plants a deep watering. If watering Star jasmine in summer, you should try to do it in the morning. A large temperature difference between the water temperature and the root system can stress the roots. You need to avoid watering the bushes when it's too hot outside. Start mulching them during the spring when the ground is not too cold.
The age of the plants matter. Lack of water is one of the most common reasons the newly planted ones fail to grow. After they are established, you need to ease off the watering schedule.
Reduce watering them during the fall and winter, especially if they have a water-retaining material in the soil. The dry winds in winter can dry them out, and the newly planted ones can be at risk of drought during windy winter, summer, and fall. Windy seasons mean that there's more watering required. The ones planted in the pot tend to dry out faster, so they need more watering. Once you see that they bloom less, the leaves begin to dry up.
Potted plants are relatively complex to water and fluctuate in frequency. Always be careful that the pot-planted plant don't sit in the water. Avoid putting them in containers with saucers, bowls, and trays. Too much watering in the fall can make the foliage look mottled or yellowish. It's always a good idea to prevent overwatering them regardless of the current climate or season that you might have. During the months when Star jasmine begins to flower, you might want to increase the watering frequency but give it a rest once they are fully grown.
Give them an adequate amount of water once every 3 to 5 days but don't give them regular schedules. Make sure the soil is dry by sticking your finger in the pot, or use a moisture meter if you're unsure if it's the right time. Too much root rot can cause them to die, so be careful not to overwater or underwater regardless of the climate or season you have in your area.
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Why is watering my Star jasmine important?
Watering the Star jasmine helps transport the needed nutrients from the soil to the rest of the plant. The moisture will keep this species healthy if you know how much water to give. The watering requirements will depend on the weather in your area and the plant's soil.
The Star jasmine thrives on moist soil, but they can't generally tolerate waterlogging. Ensure to provide enough mulch when planted on the ground and never fall into the trap of watering too little. They enjoy a full can of watering where the water should be moist at the base when they are planted in a pot to get the best blooms.
If they are grown as foliage, you need to water them up to a depth of 10 to 20 inches so they will continue to grow. If it's raining, refrain from watering and let them get the nutrients they need from the rainwater.
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More Questions People Also Ask
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More About How-Tos
Explore 6 of plant how-tos on Feng shui direction, Water, Lighting, Temperature, Transplant spacing, etc.
Feng shui direction
North
The star jasmine perfectly harmonizes with Feng Shui principles. It signifies good fortune and prosperity, making it a fine choice for home or workspace. This plant may be especially effective when positioned in the North direction. Water dominates this cardinal direction, which corresponds with the plant's need for regular irrigation. However, individual experiences may vary due to the subjective nature of Feng Shui.
Water
Every week
Star jasmine prefers consistently moist but well-draining soil, mimicking its native woodland habitat. Avoid overwatering as it can lead to root rot. Slightly reduce watering during cooler months to prevent waterlogging.
Lighting
Partial sun
For star jasmine, a mix of sun and shade is optimal for growth. In its natural environment, it thrives under a partially obscured canopy. While it can endure fully sunlit or fully shaded conditions, too much sunlight can cause leaf scorch, and prolonged shade can result in sparse flowering. Adjustment in light exposure may impact its health and flowering.
Temperature
0 to 35 ℃
For star jasmine, its native growth environment is typically warm and humid, with temperatures ranging from 68 to 86 ℉ (20 to 30 ℃). However, it can also tolerate temperatures between 59 to 100 ℉ (15 to 38 ℃), making it suitable for cultivation in a variety of regions. In order to adjust to different seasons, it's recommended to keep the temperature above 50 ℉ (10 ℃) in the winter and provide some shade during hot summer days.
Transplant spacing
4-6 feet
The perfect time to transplant star jasmine is the delightful late spring season, allowing it to establish roots before summer heatwaves. Choose a sunny or semi-shaded spot with well-draining soil for optimal growth. Gently loosen roots and water thoroughly post-transplantation for best results.
Pollination Difficulty
Normal
Star jasmine' unfolds its fragrant blooming spectacle primarily at night, with its intoxicating scent hinting at its nocturnal pollination process. This aromatic lure, combined with nectar, guides bees, its chief pollinators, towards it under the moonlit sky. This strategically timed pollination leverages the bee's food quest, endorsing an efficient exchange of pollen, thereby securing its propagation.
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Star jasmine based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Solutions: There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
Petal blight
Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: Like other fungal diseases, the progression of petal blight is extremely difficult to stop and impossible to reverse once it infects a plant. The best course of action is to remove all damaged flowers immediately and dispose of them entirely. Do not put them in the compost pile, where spores could grow and spread.
Leaf Weevils
Leaf Weevils are insects that feed on the leaves of plants.
Solutions: Leaf Weevils are relatively easy to control once their presence is discovered. Here’s what to do: Spray the foliage with an insecticide Place sticky traps around the lower trunks of fruit trees and other woody plants. Weevils can’t fly, and have to crawl up the plants when they emerge from the soil. Dig into the soil around plants with a garden fork and remove and dispose of any larvae. Let chickens roam around the garden, as they love to feed on weevil larvae.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
- Wilted, droopy flowers
- Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
- Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
- Flowerhead shrink in size
- Petal color fades
- Yellowing leaves
- Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
- Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
- Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
- Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
- Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
- Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Overview
Nutrient deficiencies can be seen in many different ways on plants. Basically, the lack of nutrients will inhibit plant growth, produce weak stems and leaves, and leave plants open to infection from pests and diseases. Plants use the nutrients from the soil to help them with photosynthesis. This, in turn, produces healthy plant growth. Plants that lack adequate amounts of nutrients will look lackluster and unhealthy. Eventually, if this is not addressed, it will cause the plants to die. The most important nutrients that plants need are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Additionally, plants require small amounts of micronutrients such as iron, boron, manganese, zinc, copper, and molybdenum.
Symptom Analysis
A common sign that plants are experiencing nutrient deficiencies is the yellowing of leaves. This may be an overall yellowing or leaves that are yellow but still have green veins. These leaves will eventually brown off and die.
Another sign is the loss of plant vigor. The plants may not be growing as well as they should or their growth may be stunted.
Below are some common symptoms that appear when plants are lacking in nutrients.
Nitrogen (N): Inner, older leaves yellow first. If the deficiency is severe, yellowing progresses outward to newer growth.
Potassium (K): Leaf edges may turn brown and crinkly, with a yellowing layer forming just inside of the edge. Older leaves tend to be impacted first.
Phosphorus (P): Lack of vigorous growth. Plants will appear stunted.
Zinc (Zn): Yellowing tends to occur first at the base of the leaf.
Copper (Cu): Newer leaves begin to yellow first, with older leaves yellowing only if the deficiency becomes severe.
Boron (B): Newer leaves are impacted first. Foliage may also become particularly brittle in cases of boron deficiency.
Disease Cause
There are several factors that can lead to nutrient deficiencies, a situation where plants are not receiving the nutrients that they need. This could be because they are planted in nutrient-deficient soils, or that the soil's pH is too high or low. Incorrect soil pH can lock up certain nutrients, thus making them unavailable to plants. Lack of soil moisture can also be a problem, because plants need water to be able to absorb the nutrients from the soil.
Solutions
There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils.
- Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies.
- Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy.
- Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly.
- Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
Prevention
There are several easy ways to prevent nutrient deficiencies in plants.
- Regular fertilizing. Regular addition of fertilizer to the soil is one of the simplest and most effective ways to prevent deficiencies.
- Proper watering. Both over and under watering can adversely impact a plant's roots, which in turn makes it harder for them to properly take up nutrients.
- Testing the soil's pH. A soil's acidity or alkalinity will impact the degree to which certain nutrients are available to be taken up by plants. Knowing the soil's pH means it can be amended to suit the needs of the individual plants.
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Petal blight
Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Petal blight, sometimes called flower blight, is a fungal disease that only affects the blooms of some ornamental flowering plants. As the infection progresses, it destroys the flower, yet it never damages the vegetative or green parts of the plant.
When flowers are infected, the symptoms look similar to Botrytis blight, but Botrytis also infects dead or dormant vegetative tissue.
The disease was first discovered in Japanese plants in 1919 and in the US in the late 1930s. Presently it is also found in New Zealand, Australia, and parts of Europe. Unfortunately, no plants have high resistance to petal blight, but specific cultivars are more susceptible than others, particularly species with double blooms.
Petal blight infection rates are high when temperatures are mild to warm (optimum temperatures are 15 to 21 ℃) and the weather is misty or rainy.
Overall, petal blight is an aesthetic problem that ruins blossoms. The disease is not harmful to the long-term health of the plant.
Symptom Analysis
The severity of the symptoms varies, depending upon the species of plant infected. Signs of petal blight are commonly seen on the blooms just after they open.
- Pallid spots on colored petals.
- Brown spots on white petals.
- Browning around the petal edges.
- Small spots look water-soaked.
- Spots rapidly enlarge and merge.
- Flowers become limp.
- The entire flower turns light brown, but does not crumble.
- Flowers become slimy at first and then take on a leathery texture.
- A ring of white or gray mycelium can be seen at the base of the petals.
Disease Cause
Petal blight is caused by several different fungi, with each type infecting specific plants. Ovulinia azalea infects azaleas species and cultivars, and rhododendrons. Ciborinia camelliae infects camellia cultivars.
Shortly after blooming, the fungus infects the base of the flowers by the calyx. The fungus produces cell wall-degrading enzymes that destroy flowers within a couple of days. When the flowers fall to the ground, the fungus' hard fruiting bodies fall to the soil as well, overwintering until the following spring.
When temperatures hit the optimum range the following season, spores are transmitted by insects or can spread on wind currents up to about 12 miles. Once in the soil, the pathogen can be active for three to five years.
Solutions
Like other fungal diseases, the progression of petal blight is extremely difficult to stop and impossible to reverse once it infects a plant. The best course of action is to remove all damaged flowers immediately and dispose of them entirely. Do not put them in the compost pile, where spores could grow and spread.
Prevention
- Apply a preventative dose of fungicide as soon as blooms start to show color on the plant. The preventative can be applied as a soil drench or directly to the flowers on the plant.
- Avoid overhead watering during blooming.
- Remove any leaf litter and dead flowers at the end of the season.
- Cover the ground under infected plants with 4” of fresh organic mulch before winter, taking care not to disturb the infected soil.
- Buy bare-root specimens when available.
- When potted plants are purchased, remove the top layer of potting soil and replace it with fresh mulch.
- Plant cultivars that bloom early in the season before the temperatures get high enough for petal blight pathogens to be spreading.
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Leaf Weevils
Leaf Weevils are insects that feed on the leaves of plants.
Overview
Leaf Weevils are insects that feed on the leaves of plants. They can cause major damage to both edible and non-edible plants. Watch out for these garden pests and use control measures to get rid of them as soon as the problem is noticed.
Symptom Analysis
Leaf Weevils are small flightless insects that are typically around 6 mm long. They have a hard body that is oval shaped and covered in short hairs, a long snout on their head that is downward facing, and 3 pairs of legs with hooked claws.
Once mated, the female weevil with lay around 20 eggs at one time, either in leaf litter on the ground or sometimes on the soil. Weevils generally only produce one batch of eggs a year but may produce 2 if conditions are ideal.
The eggs take around 6 to 15 days to hatch. When the larva emerges, it burrows into the soil. These larvae have chewing mouth parts and no legs. They feed on the roots of the plants. When this happens, you may see signs of wilting of the leaves, stems, and flowers as the plant can’t deliver enough water from the roots to the above-ground growing parts.
Eventually, the larva evolves into a soft white pupa. The pupating period normally takes around 1 to 3 weeks. After this, the adult leaf weevil will emerge and crawl up the plant to feed on the leaves.
Adult leaf Weevils feed on young leaves, stems, flowers, and buds of almost any plant. This includes many varieties of fruits and vegetables as well as ornamental plants. This creates irregular round holes in the leaves. These holes normally start at the edges of the leaf. Holes may also be made in flowers, lesions may be caused on the skin of fruit, and sometimes whole stems are chewed off.
These insects prefer a humid environment with warm temperatures. They are mostly active during the night and will hide in leaf litter, mulch, and other debris during the day.
Solutions
Leaf Weevils are relatively easy to control once their presence is discovered. Here’s what to do:
- Spray the foliage with an insecticide
- Place sticky traps around the lower trunks of fruit trees and other woody plants. Weevils can’t fly, and have to crawl up the plants when they emerge from the soil.
- Dig into the soil around plants with a garden fork and remove and dispose of any larvae.
- Let chickens roam around the garden, as they love to feed on weevil larvae.
Prevention
There are various ways to keep leaf Weevils away from plants.
- Remove weeds such as dandelion, capeweed, portulaca, mallow, sorrel, and dock. Leaf Weevils are attracted to these weeds and will set up a colony.
- Make sure fruit trees are well spaced from each other. This ensures that the weevils and their larvae don’t spread from one tree to the next.
- Cultivate the soil before planting a new crop. This allows any larvae or pupae in the soil to be unearthed and disposed of.
- Regularly fertilize the soil to encourage both earthworm and microbial activity.
- Check plants regularly to see any signs of leaf weevil activity. Also check under loose bark, mulch, leaf litter, and in the junction of stems on the plant.
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Weed Control
Weeds
Star jasmine is a native of eastern and southeastern Asia, and is often grown ornamentally across the world. However, having escaped cultivation, star jasmine has become treacherous to forests, climbing aggressively into canopies and spreading colonies rapidly. This species has the ability to grow not only through seeds but through stray stem or root pieces and any nodes that touch the ground. It is considered invasive in the Bahamas for its ability to choke out native trees and over-shade forest undergrowth, killing off entire ecosystems. The sap of the plant is also sticky and can stain clothing, so take care in cutting, pruning, or removing star jasmine.
How to Control it
Unplugging: Grasp the root of the star jasmine by hand, pull it out, and remove the root system left in the soil to prevent it from growing again. Then also remove its entangled stems, its stems are often entangled with other plants, please handle with care. Eradication: If the plant is very large, use a tool to dig out its root system. Trim: Use sharp gardening scissors to cut off its stem, and trim the part as close to the ground as possible. Chemical control: Selecting targeted herbicides, multiple applications can effectively control star jasmine. Burning: If it is not climbing on other flammable things, you can ignite and burn it with fire. Burning with fire can be an effective means of controlling this plant. Note: This is a poisonous plant, please take protective measures, such as wearing gloves, avoid direct contact.
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Distribution Map
Habitat
Walls, Trees
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info
Plant Type
Vine
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Bloom Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Summer
Leaf Color
Green
Red
Name story
Star jasmine
This plant produces a fresh and pleasant fragrance that refreshes anyone in the surrounding. The white flowers are very beautiful and are featured with five tubular petals that look like windmills. With the green leaves of the plant, it makes the flowers seem like the stars in the night sky. So, it is called the star jasmine.
Symbolism
Auspiciousness, amiability, joy
Usages
Garden Use
Star jasmine can be used as a cover plant in gardens or as vertical greenery on walls and rocks. It is prized for its appearance, sweet scent, and the fact that it can be trained to grow as a border or to spill over a wall or fence. It is a good fit for cottage or rock gardens and is often planted with Clematis and roses for their complementing blooms.
Scientific Classification
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Bloom Time
Spring, summer
Garden Usage
The flame of the woods is a tropical shrub native to Southeast Asia that will flower year-round in warm climates. It's suitable for growing both in the ground and in containers, and it can also be used for bonsai cultivation. It makes an excellent colorful hedge in suitable climates too, and is relatively easy to care for. The flame of the woods can be found in different colors, including red, orange, pink, yellow, and white., Flame of the woods can grow 3 to 4.5 m tall or be kept pruned to a houseplant size. The flowers each have four petals and grow in large clusters, and are excellent for attracting hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies to a garden.
Frost aster
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Bloom Time
Summer, autumn
Mandarin orange
The mandarin orange (Citrus reticulata) is a citrus fruit tree. It is famed for its Mandarin oranges, a commonly consumed fruit which can be eaten plain or used in salads. During the Chinese New Year, the fruit is considered a symbol of good fortune.
Bloom Time
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Garden Usage
Mandarin orange is a good option for your garden. Its small purplish-red flowers create a beautiful scene anywhere in your garden. The sweet-sour fruits slowly turn from green to yellow in fall. A very adaptable plant, mandarin orange needs only sufficient sunlight and water to grow well.
Sugar maple
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Bloom Time
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Garden Usage
The Maple is a plant of the genus Acer. The sugar maple is mainly used as a landscape tree because of its beautiful leaf color changes and elegant shape. The leaf color can change dramatically; colors include yellow, green, red, orange, pink, and purple. The sugar maple is often used as a garden shrub or as a potted plant.
Tape grass
Tape grass (Vallisneria spiralis) is a tropical or subtropical plant that is commonly cultivated in aquariums. The leaves range in color from pale green to reddish and can grow up to 91 cm long. Vallisneria spiralis easily spreads and is considered an invasive introduced species in some regions.
Bloom Time
Summer, autumn
Crown Flower
The crown Flower has beautiful flowers that are used to make leis and were a favorite of the last queen of Hawaii. The outer petals of this flower curl back, and reveal what looks like a crown inside. The sap of this plant may cause skin irritation and can be considered toxic.
Bloom Time
All year around
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Care Guide
Care FAQ
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Pests & Diseases
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Add to My Garden Star jasmine
Trachelospermum jasminoides
Also known as: Southern jasmine
Star jasmine is a popular ornamental and houseplant due to its fragrant smell and relative ease of growth. This versatile plant can grow in full sun, partial shade or complete shade, making it common in a variety of climates. It prefers to climb and is generally planted on walls or fences to allow for this natural upward growth. The star jasmine is also known to attract pollinators such as bees.
Water
Every week
Sunlight
Partial sun
Care Guide for Star jasmine
Water
Star jasmine requires plenty of water during the growing season but is rarely thirsty during fall and winter. How often to water the plant depends on the heat and climate conditions, so you might water it every three weeks in a damp climate or every ten days or so in hotter locations. It is always best to first check the dryness of the soil.
Fertilization
Star jasmine only needs to be fertilized during its spring and summer growth period, and may not need to be fertilized at all when grown in nutrient-rich soils outdoors. Mulching the soil at the start of the season provides added nutrients and using slow-release fertilizer granules is a simple way to fertilize the plant once a year.
Pruning
Deadhead (or remove) withered flowers after flowering.
Soil
Loam, Sand, Chalky, Clay, Sandy loam, Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Potting Suggestions
Potted plants should be planted in high tubular pots. Build bamboo shelves for climbing.
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Questions About Star jasmine
Watering Pruning Sunlight Temperature Fertilizing What's the best method to water my Star jasmine?
What should I do if I water Star jasmine too much/too little?
How often should I water my Star jasmine?
How much water do I need to give my Star jasmine?
Should I adjust the watering frequency for my Star jasmine according to different seasons or climates?
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Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Star jasmine based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
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Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Solutions: There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
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Petal blight
Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: Like other fungal diseases, the progression of petal blight is extremely difficult to stop and impossible to reverse once it infects a plant. The best course of action is to remove all damaged flowers immediately and dispose of them entirely. Do not put them in the compost pile, where spores could grow and spread.
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Leaf Weevils
Leaf Weevils are insects that feed on the leaves of plants.
Solutions: Leaf Weevils are relatively easy to control once their presence is discovered. Here’s what to do: Spray the foliage with an insecticide Place sticky traps around the lower trunks of fruit trees and other woody plants. Weevils can’t fly, and have to crawl up the plants when they emerge from the soil. Dig into the soil around plants with a garden fork and remove and dispose of any larvae. Let chickens roam around the garden, as they love to feed on weevil larvae.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
- Wilted, droopy flowers
- Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
- Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
- Flowerhead shrink in size
- Petal color fades
- Yellowing leaves
- Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
- Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
- Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
- Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
- Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
- Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Overview
Nutrient deficiencies can be seen in many different ways on plants. Basically, the lack of nutrients will inhibit plant growth, produce weak stems and leaves, and leave plants open to infection from pests and diseases. Plants use the nutrients from the soil to help them with photosynthesis. This, in turn, produces healthy plant growth. Plants that lack adequate amounts of nutrients will look lackluster and unhealthy. Eventually, if this is not addressed, it will cause the plants to die. The most important nutrients that plants need are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Additionally, plants require small amounts of micronutrients such as iron, boron, manganese, zinc, copper, and molybdenum.
Symptom Analysis
A common sign that plants are experiencing nutrient deficiencies is the yellowing of leaves. This may be an overall yellowing or leaves that are yellow but still have green veins. These leaves will eventually brown off and die.
Another sign is the loss of plant vigor. The plants may not be growing as well as they should or their growth may be stunted.
Below are some common symptoms that appear when plants are lacking in nutrients.
Nitrogen (N): Inner, older leaves yellow first. If the deficiency is severe, yellowing progresses outward to newer growth.
Potassium (K): Leaf edges may turn brown and crinkly, with a yellowing layer forming just inside of the edge. Older leaves tend to be impacted first.
Phosphorus (P): Lack of vigorous growth. Plants will appear stunted.
Zinc (Zn): Yellowing tends to occur first at the base of the leaf.
Copper (Cu): Newer leaves begin to yellow first, with older leaves yellowing only if the deficiency becomes severe.
Boron (B): Newer leaves are impacted first. Foliage may also become particularly brittle in cases of boron deficiency.
Disease Cause
There are several factors that can lead to nutrient deficiencies, a situation where plants are not receiving the nutrients that they need. This could be because they are planted in nutrient-deficient soils, or that the soil's pH is too high or low. Incorrect soil pH can lock up certain nutrients, thus making them unavailable to plants. Lack of soil moisture can also be a problem, because plants need water to be able to absorb the nutrients from the soil.
Solutions
There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils.
- Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies.
- Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy.
- Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly.
- Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
Prevention
There are several easy ways to prevent nutrient deficiencies in plants.
- Regular fertilizing. Regular addition of fertilizer to the soil is one of the simplest and most effective ways to prevent deficiencies.
- Proper watering. Both over and under watering can adversely impact a plant's roots, which in turn makes it harder for them to properly take up nutrients.
- Testing the soil's pH. A soil's acidity or alkalinity will impact the degree to which certain nutrients are available to be taken up by plants. Knowing the soil's pH means it can be amended to suit the needs of the individual plants.
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Petal blight
Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Petal blight, sometimes called flower blight, is a fungal disease that only affects the blooms of some ornamental flowering plants. As the infection progresses, it destroys the flower, yet it never damages the vegetative or green parts of the plant.
When flowers are infected, the symptoms look similar to Botrytis blight, but Botrytis also infects dead or dormant vegetative tissue.
The disease was first discovered in Japanese plants in 1919 and in the US in the late 1930s. Presently it is also found in New Zealand, Australia, and parts of Europe. Unfortunately, no plants have high resistance to petal blight, but specific cultivars are more susceptible than others, particularly species with double blooms.
Petal blight infection rates are high when temperatures are mild to warm (optimum temperatures are 15 to 21 ℃) and the weather is misty or rainy.
Overall, petal blight is an aesthetic problem that ruins blossoms. The disease is not harmful to the long-term health of the plant.
Symptom Analysis
The severity of the symptoms varies, depending upon the species of plant infected. Signs of petal blight are commonly seen on the blooms just after they open.
- Pallid spots on colored petals.
- Brown spots on white petals.
- Browning around the petal edges.
- Small spots look water-soaked.
- Spots rapidly enlarge and merge.
- Flowers become limp.
- The entire flower turns light brown, but does not crumble.
- Flowers become slimy at first and then take on a leathery texture.
- A ring of white or gray mycelium can be seen at the base of the petals.
Disease Cause
Petal blight is caused by several different fungi, with each type infecting specific plants. Ovulinia azalea infects azaleas species and cultivars, and rhododendrons. Ciborinia camelliae infects camellia cultivars.
Shortly after blooming, the fungus infects the base of the flowers by the calyx. The fungus produces cell wall-degrading enzymes that destroy flowers within a couple of days. When the flowers fall to the ground, the fungus' hard fruiting bodies fall to the soil as well, overwintering until the following spring.
When temperatures hit the optimum range the following season, spores are transmitted by insects or can spread on wind currents up to about 12 miles. Once in the soil, the pathogen can be active for three to five years.
Solutions
Like other fungal diseases, the progression of petal blight is extremely difficult to stop and impossible to reverse once it infects a plant. The best course of action is to remove all damaged flowers immediately and dispose of them entirely. Do not put them in the compost pile, where spores could grow and spread.
Prevention
- Apply a preventative dose of fungicide as soon as blooms start to show color on the plant. The preventative can be applied as a soil drench or directly to the flowers on the plant.
- Avoid overhead watering during blooming.
- Remove any leaf litter and dead flowers at the end of the season.
- Cover the ground under infected plants with 4” of fresh organic mulch before winter, taking care not to disturb the infected soil.
- Buy bare-root specimens when available.
- When potted plants are purchased, remove the top layer of potting soil and replace it with fresh mulch.
- Plant cultivars that bloom early in the season before the temperatures get high enough for petal blight pathogens to be spreading.
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Leaf Weevils
Leaf Weevils are insects that feed on the leaves of plants.
Overview
Leaf Weevils are insects that feed on the leaves of plants. They can cause major damage to both edible and non-edible plants. Watch out for these garden pests and use control measures to get rid of them as soon as the problem is noticed.
Symptom Analysis
Leaf Weevils are small flightless insects that are typically around 6 mm long. They have a hard body that is oval shaped and covered in short hairs, a long snout on their head that is downward facing, and 3 pairs of legs with hooked claws.
Once mated, the female weevil with lay around 20 eggs at one time, either in leaf litter on the ground or sometimes on the soil. Weevils generally only produce one batch of eggs a year but may produce 2 if conditions are ideal.
The eggs take around 6 to 15 days to hatch. When the larva emerges, it burrows into the soil. These larvae have chewing mouth parts and no legs. They feed on the roots of the plants. When this happens, you may see signs of wilting of the leaves, stems, and flowers as the plant can’t deliver enough water from the roots to the above-ground growing parts.
Eventually, the larva evolves into a soft white pupa. The pupating period normally takes around 1 to 3 weeks. After this, the adult leaf weevil will emerge and crawl up the plant to feed on the leaves.
Adult leaf Weevils feed on young leaves, stems, flowers, and buds of almost any plant. This includes many varieties of fruits and vegetables as well as ornamental plants. This creates irregular round holes in the leaves. These holes normally start at the edges of the leaf. Holes may also be made in flowers, lesions may be caused on the skin of fruit, and sometimes whole stems are chewed off.
These insects prefer a humid environment with warm temperatures. They are mostly active during the night and will hide in leaf litter, mulch, and other debris during the day.
Solutions
Leaf Weevils are relatively easy to control once their presence is discovered. Here’s what to do:
- Spray the foliage with an insecticide
- Place sticky traps around the lower trunks of fruit trees and other woody plants. Weevils can’t fly, and have to crawl up the plants when they emerge from the soil.
- Dig into the soil around plants with a garden fork and remove and dispose of any larvae.
- Let chickens roam around the garden, as they love to feed on weevil larvae.
Prevention
There are various ways to keep leaf Weevils away from plants.
- Remove weeds such as dandelion, capeweed, portulaca, mallow, sorrel, and dock. Leaf Weevils are attracted to these weeds and will set up a colony.
- Make sure fruit trees are well spaced from each other. This ensures that the weevils and their larvae don’t spread from one tree to the next.
- Cultivate the soil before planting a new crop. This allows any larvae or pupae in the soil to be unearthed and disposed of.
- Regularly fertilize the soil to encourage both earthworm and microbial activity.
- Check plants regularly to see any signs of leaf weevil activity. Also check under loose bark, mulch, leaf litter, and in the junction of stems on the plant.
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Weed Control
Weeds
Star jasmine is a native of eastern and southeastern Asia, and is often grown ornamentally across the world. However, having escaped cultivation, star jasmine has become treacherous to forests, climbing aggressively into canopies and spreading colonies rapidly. This species has the ability to grow not only through seeds but through stray stem or root pieces and any nodes that touch the ground. It is considered invasive in the Bahamas for its ability to choke out native trees and over-shade forest undergrowth, killing off entire ecosystems. The sap of the plant is also sticky and can stain clothing, so take care in cutting, pruning, or removing star jasmine.
How to Control it
Unplugging: Grasp the root of the star jasmine by hand, pull it out, and remove the root system left in the soil to prevent it from growing again. Then also remove its entangled stems, its stems are often entangled with other plants, please handle with care. Eradication: If the plant is very large, use a tool to dig out its root system. Trim: Use sharp gardening scissors to cut off its stem, and trim the part as close to the ground as possible. Chemical control: Selecting targeted herbicides, multiple applications can effectively control star jasmine. Burning: If it is not climbing on other flammable things, you can ignite and burn it with fire. Burning with fire can be an effective means of controlling this plant. Note: This is a poisonous plant, please take protective measures, such as wearing gloves, avoid direct contact.
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Distribution Map
Habitat
Walls, Trees
Map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info
Plant Type
Vine
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Bloom Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Summer
Leaf Color
Green
Red
Name story
Star jasmine
This plant produces a fresh and pleasant fragrance that refreshes anyone in the surrounding. The white flowers are very beautiful and are featured with five tubular petals that look like windmills. With the green leaves of the plant, it makes the flowers seem like the stars in the night sky. So, it is called the star jasmine.
Symbolism
Auspiciousness, amiability, joy
Usages
Garden Use
Star jasmine can be used as a cover plant in gardens or as vertical greenery on walls and rocks. It is prized for its appearance, sweet scent, and the fact that it can be trained to grow as a border or to spill over a wall or fence. It is a good fit for cottage or rock gardens and is often planted with Clematis and roses for their complementing blooms.
Scientific Classification
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Water
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor potted
In the ground
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Essentials
Star jasmine prefers consistently moist but well-draining soil, mimicking its native woodland habitat. Avoid overwatering as it can lead to root rot. Slightly reduce watering during cooler months to prevent waterlogging.
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Spring
Summer
Autumn
Winter
Morning
Noonday
Evening
Morning watering can reduce the risk of fungal growth. Requirements
Every week
Watering Frequency
Smart Seasonal Watering
Install the app for seasonal watering guidance
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Just like people, each plant has its own preferences and needs. Devote time to understanding your plants so you can nurture them properly. Observe your plants attentively, learning from their growth patterns, and becoming more in tune with their needs as you grow together. Keep a watchful eye on new plants and seedlings, as they are sensitive to both overwatering and underwatering. Shower them with gentle love and attention, fostering their growth and strength. Let the rhythm of your local climate guide your watering habits, adapting your schedule to the changing weather and the needs of your plants. Amount and Approach
Watering from the soil
1. Gradually pour water to the soil from above.
2. Stop watering your plant once water begins to flow out of the drainage holes in the pot.
3. Allow it to rest for 1 minute, then discard any water remaining in the tray, making sure your plant is not sitting in the water.
Avoid watering the leaves or flowers. Use a watering can with a long spout when watering to reduce bending and exertion, and ease your fatigue. Watering from the bottom
1. Fill the tray with water, ensure that the soil makes contact with the water.
2. Let it rest for 10 minutes.
3. Drain excess water from the tray if the soil is uniformly damp.
4. Watering more to the tray if the soil remains dry.
5. Allow it to sit for an additional 20 minutes before draining any excess water.
Avoid watering the leaves or flowers. Use a watering can with a long spout when watering to reduce bending and exertion, and ease your fatigue. Soaking the water
1. Select a location for soaking your plants, such as a tray or bathtub.
2. Pour a few centimeters of fresh water into the bottom of your chosen container.
3. Soaking your plant pots within the water, allowing them to absorb moisture for 1 hour.
4. Remove the plants from the water and let them dry.
Avoid watering the leaves or flowers. Use a watering can with a long spout when watering to reduce bending and exertion, and ease your fatigue. For Star jasmine, outdoor watering can be done using a sprinkler head. This involves using a sprinkler or hose nozzle to evenly spray water over the surface of the plant's soil. The sprinkler head can be adjusted to control the flow of water and the spray range, catering to the watering needs of different-sized plants. Keep them running for 10-20 minutes to ensure that water adequately penetrates the soil.
Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Star jasmine is more susceptible to developing disease symptoms when overwatered because it prefers a soil environment with moderate humidity. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, root rot, leaf drop...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Yellowing leaves
When plants receive too much water, the roots become oxygen deprived and the bottom leaves of the plant gradually turn yellow.
Root rot
Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Leaf drop
When plants are overwatered, they may shed their leaves as a response to stress, even if the leaves appear green and healthy.
Mold and mildew
Overwatered plants create a damp environment that can encourage the growth of mold and mildew on soil.
Increased susceptibility diseases
Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
Star jasmine is more susceptible to plant health issues when lacking watering, as it can only tolerate short periods of drought. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, yellowing leaves, leaf drop...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Wilting
Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Root damage
Prolonged underwatering can cause root damage, making it difficult for the plant to absorb water even when it is available.
Dry stems
Due to insufficient water, plant stems may become dry or brittle, making the branches easy to break.
Dying plant
If underwatering continues for an extended period, the plant may ultimately die as a result of severe water stress and an inability to carry out essential functions.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.
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Lighting
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Partial sun
Ideal
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Full sun, Full shade
Tolerance
Above 6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness. Essentials
For star jasmine, a mix of sun and shade is optimal for growth. In its natural environment, it thrives under a partially obscured canopy. While it can endure fully sunlit or fully shaded conditions, too much sunlight can cause leaf scorch, and prolonged shade can result in sparse flowering. Adjustment in light exposure may impact its health and flowering.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Star jasmine is a versatile plant that thrives in full sunlight but can tolerate partial shade. While it can adapt to different light conditions, when grown indoors with insufficient light, subtle symptoms of light deficiency may arise.
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Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your star jasmine may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Star jasmine enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To optimize plant growth, shift them to increasingly sunnier spots each week until they receive 3-6 hours of direct sunlight daily, enabling gradual adaptation to changing light conditions.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Star jasmine thrives in full sun exposure but can adapt to partial shade. Although sunburn symptoms occur occasionally, they are generally tolerant of different light conditions due to their resilience.
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Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care. Essentials
For star jasmine, its native growth environment is typically warm and humid, with temperatures ranging from 68 to 86 ℉ (20 to 30 ℃). However, it can also tolerate temperatures between 59 to 100 ℉ (15 to 38 ℃), making it suitable for cultivation in a variety of regions. In order to adjust to different seasons, it's recommended to keep the temperature above 50 ℉ (10 ℃) in the winter and provide some shade during hot summer days.
Regional wintering strategies
Star jasmine has some cold tolerance and generally does not require any additional measures when the temperature is above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. However, if the temperature is expected to drop below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it is necessary to take some temporary measures for cold protection, such as wrapping the plant with plastic film, fabric, or other materials. Once the temperature rises again, the protective measures should be removed promptly.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Star jasmine has moderate tolerance to low temperatures and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves may start to droop. In mild cases, they can recover, but in severe cases, the leaves will wilt and eventually fall off.
Solutions
Trim off the frost-damaged parts. Prior to encountering low temperatures again, wrap the plant with materials such as non-woven fabric or cloth, and construct a wind barrier to protect it from the cold wind.
High Temperature
During summer, Star jasmine should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the color of the leaves becomes lighter, the leaf tips may become dry and withered, the leaves may curl, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant spacing
How to Successfully Transplant Star jasmine?
The perfect time to transplant star jasmine is the delightful late spring season, allowing it to establish roots before summer heatwaves. Choose a sunny or semi-shaded spot with well-draining soil for optimal growth. Gently loosen roots and water thoroughly post-transplantation for best results.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Star jasmine?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Star jasmine?
The optimal time for moving star jasmine is the tail end of spring, as the plant would have just completed its dormancy period. Transplanting at this juncture gives star jasmine ample time to establish and acclimate before the hot summer. A friendly reminder that this timing provides the best chances for star jasmine to thrive, with it being in the ideal phase of its growth and temperature cycle. So, don't forget - late spring is the prime time for your star jasmine transplant.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Star jasmine Plants?
When transplanting star jasmine, make sure to leave enough space between plants. Ideally, you should space them about 4-6 feet (1.2-1.8 meters) apart. This allows ample room for growth while still providing enough coverage for a beautiful green display.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Star jasmine Transplanting?
To prepare the soil for star jasmine, use a well-drained, fertile soil that's rich in organic matter. Mix in a base fertilizer such as slow-release balanced granular fertilizer or well-rotted compost. This will provide the nutrients your plant needs to thrive.
Where Should You Relocate Your Star jasmine?
Choose a sunny or partially shaded location for star jasmine when transplanting. These plants can tolerate a variety of light levels, but they'll grow best and produce the most fragrant flowers if they receive at least 4-6 hours of direct sunlight each day.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Star jasmine?
Gardening gloves
These will protect your hands while working with the soil and plants.
Shovel or a trowel
Use these to dig a hole in the new location and to lift the star jasmine plant while moving it.
Wheelbarrow or garden cart
For transporting the star jasmine from its original location to its new position.
Pruning shears
To prune the star jasmine plant before or after it is transplanted.
A watering can or hose
To water the plant before and after transplanting.
Mulch
To retain moisture after the transplanting process.
How Do You Remove Star jasmine from the Soil?
Prepare the new hole before removing the star jasmine plant from its current position, this will minimise the time the plant is out of soil and reduces stress.
This hole should be twice as wide as the root ball but the same depth.
Carefully place the star jasmine in the hole and backfill with the dug soil, making sure the plant is at the same level as it was in the original location.
After you have planted star jasmine, water it well, soaking the surrounding soil.
Add a layer of mulch around the base of the plant to conserve moisture.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Star jasmine
Step1 Preparation
Prepare the new hole before removing the star jasmine plant from its current position, this will minimise the time the plant is out of soil and reduces stress.
Step2 Establishing the Hole
This hole should be twice as wide as the root ball but the same depth.
Step3 Transerring the Plant
Carefully place the star jasmine in the hole and backfill with the dug soil, making sure the plant is at the same level as it was in the original location.
Step4 Watering
After you have planted star jasmine, water it well, soaking the surrounding soil.
Step5 Mulching
Add a layer of mulch around the base of the plant to conserve moisture.
How Do You Care For Star jasmine After Transplanting?
Pruning
Pruning some of the star jasmine's foliage can reduce water loss and stress on the plant post-transplant.
Staking
If star jasmine is a climbing variety of plant, it may need a bit of support until its roots establish. Stick a few garden stakes in the ground and loosely tie the plant.
Monitoring
Keep an eye on the star jasmine for any sign of stress. If the leaves begin to wilt or turn yellow, it may mean that the plant isn't getting enough water or has been planted in a location too bright or too shady.
Watering
Although established star jasmine needs only moderate watering, the transplanted one will need regular watering until it's established in its new position. Overwatering can cause root rot, so ensure the soil is just moist, not drenched.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Star jasmine Transplantation.
What's the best time to transplant star jasmine?
You should aim to transplant star jasmine during late spring, when the weather is in a goldilocks period – neither too hot nor too cold.
How much space should I leave between each star jasmine?
When transplanting star jasmine, ensure about 4-6 feet (1.2-1.8 meters) of distance between each plant. This promotes optimal growth and spread.
How deep should the holes be for my star jasmine transplant?
Dig holes about twice the width and the same depth as the root ball of your star jasmine. This is roughly 10 inches (25 cm) deep and wide for most young plants.
Why are my transplanted star jasmine leaves wilting?
Wilting after transplanting may be a sign of transplant shock. Ensure you water your star jasmine sufficiently and keep it in partial shade for a few days post-transplant.
How much water does star jasmine need post-transplant?
Water your star jasmine generously right after transplanting. Post that, keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. Overwatering can harm the plant.
The transplanted star jasmine isn't flowering. What should I do?
Be patient. It's normal for star jasmine to focus energy on root establishment after transplanting, rather than flowering. Ensure sufficient light and food for blossoming in the future.
What kind of soil is suitable for transplanting star jasmine?
Star jasmine prefers well-drained soil, enriched with organic matter or compost. A slightly acidic to neutral pH level is ideal for the best growth.
Should I prune star jasmine prior to transplantation?
Not necessarily. However, a light pruning of star jasmine can help its energy focus on establishing roots in the new location.
What sort of fertilizers should be used after transplanting star jasmine?
A slow-release fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium is a good choice for star jasmine after transplanting. This aids in good root and foliage growth.
Who can help me with transplanting star jasmine?
Local nursery staff, landscaping companies, and gardening communities can provide assistance with transplanting star jasmine. Remember, careful and loving handling of star jasmine can ensure successful transplantation!
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