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Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii'
Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii'
Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii'
Tradescantia zebrina 'Purpusii'
Also known as : Spiderwort 'Purpusii', Purpusii Silver Inch Plant
Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' is a stunning and boldly-colored inchplant cultivar. Instead of sporting traditional all deep green to pale green leaves, these plants have dark purple or maroon leaves, which are only sometimes intermixed with green. In warm or temperate climates, tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' can be grown outside as a handsome, distinctive groundcover or in hanging baskets.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
9 to 11
care guide

Care Guide for Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii'

Watering Care
Watering Care
Average water needs, watering when the top 3 cm of soil has dried out.
Details on Watering Care Watering Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilization once a month during the growing season.
Details on Fertilizing Care Fertilizing Care
Pruning
Pruning
Trim the diseased, withered leaves once a month.
Details on Pruning Pruning
Soil Care
Soil Care
Sand, Loam, Acidic
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
Repotting
Repotting
The tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' plant can be repotted in the spring.
Details on Repotting Repotting
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Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii'
Water
Water
Every week
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full shade
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
9 to 11
question

Questions About Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii'

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii'?
When watering the Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii', you should aim to use filtered water that is at room temperature. Filtered water is better for this plant, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to its health. The reason that the water should be at room temperature or slightly warmer is that the Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' comes from a warm environment, and cold water can be somewhat of a shock to its system. Also, you should avoid overhead watering for this plant, as it can cause foliage complications. Instead, simply apply your filtered room temperature water to the soil until the soil is entirely soaked. Soaking the soil can be very beneficial for this plant as it moistens the roots and helps them continue to spread through the soil and collect the nutrients they need.
Read More more
What should I do if I water my Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' too much or too little?
Both overwatering and underwatering will be detrimental to the health of your Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii', but overwatering is a far more common issue. When this species receives too much water, its stems and leaves may begin to wilt and turn from green to yellow. Overwatering over a prolonged period may also lead to diseases such as root rot, mold, and mildew, all of which can kill your plant. Underwatering is far less common for the Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii', as this plant has decent drought tolerance. However, underwatering remains a possibility, and when it occurs, you can expect to find that the leaves of your Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' have become brittle and brown.
It is crucial that you notice the signs of overwatering as soon as possible when caring for your Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii'. Some of the diseases that arise from overwatering, such as root rot, may not be correctable if you wait too long. If you see early signs of overwatering, you should reduce your watering schedule immediately. You may also want to assess the quality of soil in which your Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' grows. If you find that the soil drains very poorly, you should replace it immediately with a loose, well-draining potting mix. On the other hand, if you find signs that your Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' is receiving too little water, all you need to do is water more regularly until those signs have subsided.
Read More more
How often should I water my Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii'?
If your plant is in a pot. The most precise way to decide whether your Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' needs water is to plunge your finger into the soil. If you notice that the first two to three inches of soil have become dry, it is time to add some water.
If you grow your Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' outdoors in the ground, you can use a similar method to test the soil. Again, when you find that the first few inches of soil have dried out, it is time to add water. During the spring and early fall, this method will often lead you to water this plant about once every week. When extremely hot weather arrives, you may need to increase your watering frequency to about twice or more per week. With that said, mature, well-established the Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' can show an admirable ability to withstand drought.
Read More more
How much water does my Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' need?
When it comes time to water your Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii', you should not be shy about how much water you give. With the first two to three inches of soil dry, this plant will appreciate a long and thorough watering. Supply enough water to soak the soil entirely. The amount of water you add should be enough to cause excess water to flow through the drainage holes at the bottom of your pot. If you don’t see excess water draining from the pot, you have likely underwatered your plant. But do not let the water accumulate inside the soil, which will be very dangerous to the plant as well. Alternatively, a lack of water draining through the pot could indicate poorly draining soils, which is detrimental to the health of this plant and should be avoided. If the plant is outside, 1 inch of rain per week will be sufficient.
Read More more
How should I water my Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' at different growth stages?
The water needs of the Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' can change depending on growth stages as well. For example, when your Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' is in the first few years of its life, or if you have just transplanted it to a new growing location, you will need to give more water than usual. During both of those stages, your Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' will put a lot of energy towards sprouting new roots that will then support future growth. For those roots to perform their best, they need a bit more moisture than they would at a more mature phase. After a few seasons, your Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' will need much less water. Another growth stage in which this plant may need more water is during the bloom period. Flower development can make use of a significant amount of moisture, which is why you might need to give your Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' more water at this time.
Read More more
How should I water my Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' through the seasons?
The Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' will have its highest water needs during the hottest months of the year. During the height of summer, you may need to give this plant water more than once per week, depending on how fast the soil dries out. The opposite is true during the winter. In winter, your plant will enter a dormant phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. In fact, you may not need to water this plant at all during the winter months. However, if you do water during winter, you should not do so more than about once per month. Watering too much at this time will make it more likely that your Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' will contract a disease.
Read More more
What's the difference between watering my Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' indoors and outdoors?
It is most common to grow the Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' indoors for any gardener that does not live in temperate and tropical regions. Those gardeners should consider the fact that soil in a container can dry out a bit faster than ground soil. Also, the presence of drying elements such as air conditioning units can cause your Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' to need water on a more frequent basis as well. if you planted it outside. When that is the case, it’s likely you won’t need to water your Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' very much at all. If you receive rainfall on a regular basis, that may be enough to keep your plant alive. Alternatively, those who grow this plant inside will need to water it more often, as allowing rainwater to soak the soil will not be an option.
Read More more
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Key Facts About Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii'

Attributes of Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii'

Lifespan
Perennial, Annual
Plant Type
Herb
Planting Time
Spring, Summer, Fall
Bloom Time
All year around
Harvest Time
Late summer, Early fall, Mid fall
Plant Height
6 inches to 12 inches
Spread
30 cm to 1.2 m
Leaf Color
Green
Blue
Variegated
Purple
Flower Color
Pink
Stem Color
Green
Purple
Pink
Dormancy
Non-dormant
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃

Scientific Classification of Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii'

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Common Pests & Diseases About Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii'

Common issues for Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Scars
Scars Scars
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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Scars
plant poor
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Leaf beetles
plant poor
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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More Info on Tradescantia Zebrina 'purpusii' Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
Explore More
Transplant
1-2 feet
The best time, S1-S3 or in simpler terms, early spring to late summer is perfect for transplanting tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' as it encourages robust growth. It requires a well-drained spot with partial shade. Ensure to give ample space around for the plant to spread out. Patience and proper watering are key for a successful transplant.
Transplant Techniques
Feng shui direction
West
Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' is associated with lightness and flexibility in Feng Shui, often pleasing chi in room settings. Its compatibility with the West direction is notable, given the element of metal connected with the West in Feng Shui theory. The plant's expansive energy complements the crisp, clean attributes traditionally linked to the metallic west, contributing to a harmonious balance.
Fengshui Details
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Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii'
Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii'
Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii'
Tradescantia zebrina 'Purpusii'
Also known as: Spiderwort 'Purpusii', Purpusii Silver Inch Plant
Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' is a stunning and boldly-colored inchplant cultivar. Instead of sporting traditional all deep green to pale green leaves, these plants have dark purple or maroon leaves, which are only sometimes intermixed with green. In warm or temperate climates, tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' can be grown outside as a handsome, distinctive groundcover or in hanging baskets.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
9 to 11
question

Questions About Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii'

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii'?
more
What should I do if I water my Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' too much or too little?
more
How often should I water my Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii'?
more
How much water does my Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' need?
more
How should I water my Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' at different growth stages?
more
How should I water my Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' through the seasons?
more
What's the difference between watering my Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' indoors and outdoors?
more
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Keep your plants happy and healthy with our guide to watering, lighting, feeding and more.
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plant_info

Key Facts About Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii'

Attributes of Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii'

Lifespan
Perennial, Annual
Plant Type
Herb
Planting Time
Spring, Summer, Fall
Bloom Time
All year around
Harvest Time
Late summer, Early fall, Mid fall
Plant Height
6 inches to 12 inches
Spread
30 cm to 1.2 m
Leaf Color
Green
Blue
Variegated
Purple
Flower Color
Pink
Stem Color
Green
Purple
Pink
Dormancy
Non-dormant
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃
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Scientific Classification of Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii'

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii'

Common issues for Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More About the Brown spot more
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More About the Aged yellow and dry more
Scars
Scars Scars Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Learn More About the Scars more
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Learn More About the Leaf beetles more
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close
Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Aged yellow and dry
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Scars
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Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Leaf beetles
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
  1. Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
  2. Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
  3. Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
  4. Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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care_scenes

More Info on Tradescantia Zebrina 'purpusii' Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Tradescantia Zebrina 'purpusii'?
The best time, S1-S3 or in simpler terms, early spring to late summer is perfect for transplanting tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' as it encourages robust growth. It requires a well-drained spot with partial shade. Ensure to give ample space around for the plant to spread out. Patience and proper watering are key for a successful transplant.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Tradescantia Zebrina 'purpusii'?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Tradescantia Zebrina 'purpusii'?
The perfect moment to usher tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' into a new home would be in S1-S3, also known as early spring to mid-autumn. During this period, the plant goes through vigorous growth, enabling it to recover quicker from the potential shock of transplantation. Plus, the temperature is just right - not too hot, not too cold, creating an ideal environment for its growth. By transplanting tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' in this ideal timeframe, you'll be giving it the best shot at a healthy, robust growth.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Tradescantia Zebrina 'purpusii' Plants?
When transplanting tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii', make sure you space each plant 1-2 feet (30-60 cm) apart. This provides room for the plant to grow without crowding. Perfect if you're setting up for the first time!
What is the Best Soil Mix for Tradescantia Zebrina 'purpusii' Transplanting?
For tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii', a well-draining soil is perfect. Mix in organic compost as the base fertilizer to enrich the soil. It's an easy beginner-friendly way to boost your plant's health!
Where Should You Relocate Your Tradescantia Zebrina 'purpusii'?
Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' adores sunlight! Aim for a location where it'll get at least 6 hours of sunlight daily. Don't worry if you don't have much sun, a spot with some shade works too. Keep going, you're doing great!
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Tradescantia Zebrina 'purpusii'?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands during the whole process.
Shovel or Spade
These are needed for removing the tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' from its original location and digging a hole in its new location.
Gardening Trowel
This tool can be used for handling smaller, more delicate roots.
Watering Can or Hose
It is essential for watering the tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' both in its original location and in its new location.
Transport Container
Used to place the plant in while you're preparing the new location.
Organic Compost
To enrich the soil at the new location to allow the tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' to have the best start.
Mulch
This is needed post-transplant to help the soil retain moisture.
How Do You Remove Tradescantia Zebrina 'purpusii' from the Soil?
From Ground: Begin by watering the tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' to dampen the soil. With the shovel or spade, dig a generous trench around the plant making sure to keep well away from its roots. Then, angle the spade to go underneath the root ball and gently pry the plant from the ground. Ensure the root ball is intact. Place the plant in the transport container.
From Pot: Water the plant to moisten the soil. Gently tip the pot on its side and ease the tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' out of the pot while keeping the root ball undisturbed. You may need to tap or squeeze the sides of the pot to loosen the soil.
From Seedling Tray: Moisten the soil by lightly watering. Very carefully, use the trowel to dig under the seedling, making sure to scoop out the roots and surrounding soil. Hold the tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' by its leaves to avoid damaging the stem or roots.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Tradescantia Zebrina 'purpusii'
Digging
Dig a hole in the new location that is wide and deep enough to accommodate the root ball of tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii'. The hole should be 2-3 times the width of the root ball and just as deep. Fill the hole with water.
Placing
Place the tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' in the hole gently. Make sure it is standing upright and that the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface.
Refilling
Refill the hole with soil mixed with organic compost, firming it gently around the base of the tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii'.
Watering
Water the plant generously after transplanting. Drench the soil completely to settle it and to remove any air pockets.
How Do You Care For Tradescantia Zebrina 'purpusii' After Transplanting?
Watering
After transplanting, the tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' will require regular watering until it establishes itself. Keep the soil consistently moist but avoid waterlogging.
Mulching
Add a layer of mulch around the base of the tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' to help retain moisture in the soil. This is especially important in the first few weeks after transplanting.
Watching
Keep a close eye on the tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' for the first few weeks. Pay attention to its leaves, if they start to wilt or turn yellow, it may indicate large stress.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Tradescantia Zebrina 'purpusii' Transplantation.
When is the best time to transplant tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii'?
The optimal season for transplanting tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' is from early spring to late summer, this gives the plant adequate time to settle before winter.
How much space does tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' require among other plants?
Ensure to maintain a distance of 1-2 feet (30-60 cm) between tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' and other plants. This provides ample space for growth and prevents overcrowding.
What precautions should I take while removing tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' from its original pot or ground?
Be gentle when removing tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' from its original spot; avoid breaking or damaging the roots. Dislodge the soil around the plant to facilitate a smooth transition.
Should I water tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' immediately after transplanting?
Yes! After repositioning tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii', water generously. It aids in settling the soil around the roots and lessens transplant shock.
What is the suitable soil type for transplanting tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii'?
Tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' prefers well-draining soil. A mix of loam, sand, and a bit of compost works wonderfully, ensuring proper nutrient supply.
How should I prepare the new pot or ground for tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii'?
Prepare a hole twice the size of tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii''s root ball. Loosen the surrounding soil and add an organic matter or compost mix for extra nutrients.
What should I do if tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' wilts after transplanting?
Don't panic! Initial wilting is normal as tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' settles in its new environment. Keep the soil slightly moist, avoid over-watering, and it should recover soon.
How deep should I plant tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' in its new location?
Aim for the same depth tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' was planted in its original spot. Planting too deeply can lead to root rot.
How can I ensure tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' thrives after being transplanted?
Keep tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' in a location with partial shade, ensure the soil is well-draining, and maintain a continual moisture level without saturating the plant.
What if tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' shows no signs of growth after transplanting?
It may take time for tradescantia Zebrina 'Purpusii' to adjust to its new spot. If the condition persists, check for root rot, overwatering or insufficient light.
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