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Southern cattail
Southern cattail
Southern cattail
Southern cattail
Southern cattail
Southern cattail
Southern cattail
Typha domingensis
Also known as : Southern bulrush, Narrow-leaf cumbungi
Southern cattail is a perennial found across the globe. It is known to reduce the bacterial contamination of water. This aquatic herb can be highly invasive and take over small ponds where little other foliage grows. The leaves have been used by Native Americans for thatching roofs of huts and the pulp of the seed pods as stuffing for bedding.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
5 to 12
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care guide

Care Guide for Southern cattail

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Soil Care
Soil Care
Sand, Slightly acidic, Neutral, Slightly alkaline
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
Ideal Lighting
Ideal Lighting
Full sun
Details on Sunlight Requirements Ideal Lighting
Ideal Temperature
Ideal Temperature
5 to 12
Details on Temperature Ideal Temperature
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Southern cattail
Water
Water
Once per day
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
5 to 12
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Questions About Southern cattail

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Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Southern cattail?
When watering the Southern cattail, you should aim to use filtered water that is at room temperature. Filtered water is better for this plant, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to its health. The reason that the water should be at room temperature or slightly warmer is that the Southern cattail comes from a warm environment, and cold water can be somewhat of a shock to its system. Also, you should avoid overhead watering for this plant, as it can cause foliage complications. Instead, simply apply your filtered room temperature water to the soil until the soil is entirely soaked. Soaking the soil can be very beneficial for this plant as it moistens the roots and helps them continue to spread through the soil and collect the nutrients they need.
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What should I do if I water my Southern cattail too much or too little?
Both overwatering and underwatering will be detrimental to the health of your Southern cattail, but overwatering is a far more common issue. When this species receives too much water, its stems and leaves may begin to wilt and turn from green to yellow. Overwatering over a prolonged period may also lead to diseases such as root rot, mold, and mildew, all of which can kill your plant. Underwatering is far less common for the Southern cattail, as this plant has decent drought tolerance. However, underwatering remains a possibility, and when it occurs, you can expect to find that the leaves of your Southern cattail have become brittle and brown. It is crucial that you notice the signs of overwatering as soon as possible when caring for your Southern cattail. Some of the diseases that arise from overwatering, such as root rot, may not be correctable if you wait too long. If you see early signs of overwatering, you should reduce your watering schedule immediately. You may also want to assess the quality of soil in which your Southern cattail grows. If you find that the soil drains very poorly, you should replace it immediately with a loose, well-draining potting mix. On the other hand, if you find signs that your Southern cattail is receiving too little water, all you need to do is water more regularly until those signs have subsided.
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How often should I water my Southern cattail?
If your plant is in a pot. The most precise way to decide whether your Southern cattail needs water is to plunge your finger into the soil. If you notice that the first two to three inches of soil have become dry, it is time to add some water. If you grow your Southern cattail outdoors in the ground, you can use a similar method to test the soil. Again, when you find that the first few inches of soil have dried out, it is time to add water. During the spring and early fall, this method will often lead you to water this plant about once every week. When extremely hot weather arrives, you may need to increase your watering frequency to about twice or more per week. With that said, mature, well-established the Southern cattail can show an admirable ability to withstand drought.
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How much water does my Southern cattail need?
When it comes time to water your Southern cattail, you should not be shy about how much water you give. With the first two to three inches of soil dry, this plant will appreciate a long and thorough watering. Supply enough water to soak the soil entirely. The amount of water you add should be enough to cause excess water to flow through the drainage holes at the bottom of your pot. If you don’t see excess water draining from the pot, you have likely underwatered your plant. But do not let the water accumulate inside the soil, which will be very dangerous to the plant as well. Alternatively, a lack of water draining through the pot could indicate poorly draining soils, which is detrimental to the health of this plant and should be avoided. If the plant is outside, 1 inch of rain per week will be sufficient.
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How should I water my Southern cattail at different growth stages?
The water needs of the Southern cattail can change depending on growth stages as well. For example, when your Southern cattail is in the first few years of its life, or if you have just transplanted it to a new growing location, you will need to give more water than usual. During both of those stages, your Southern cattail will put a lot of energy towards sprouting new roots that will then support future growth. For those roots to perform their best, they need a bit more moisture than they would at a more mature phase. After a few seasons, your Southern cattail will need much less water. Another growth stage in which this plant may need more water is during the bloom period. Flower development can make use of a significant amount of moisture, which is why you might need to give your Southern cattail more water at this time.
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How should I water my Southern cattail through the seasons?
The Southern cattail will have its highest water needs during the hottest months of the year. During the height of summer, you may need to give this plant water more than once per week, depending on how fast the soil dries out. The opposite is true during the winter. In winter, your plant will enter a dormant phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. In fact, you may not need to water this plant at all during the winter months. However, if you do water during winter, you should not do so more than about once per month. Watering too much at this time will make it more likely that your Southern cattail will contract a disease.
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What's the difference between watering my Southern cattail indoors and outdoors?
It is most common to grow the Southern cattail indoors for any gardener that does not live in temperate and tropical regions. Those gardeners should consider the fact that soil in a container can dry out a bit faster than ground soil. Also, the presence of drying elements such as air conditioning units can cause your Southern cattail to need water on a more frequent basis as well. if you planted it outside. When that is the case, it’s likely you won’t need to water your Southern cattail very much at all. If you receive rainfall on a regular basis, that may be enough to keep your plant alive. Alternatively, those who grow this plant inside will need to water it more often, as allowing rainwater to soak the soil will not be an option.
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Key Facts About Southern cattail

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Attributes of Southern cattail

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Herb
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer, Fall
Plant Height
1.8 m to 3.5 m
Spread
1.8 m
Flower Size
2.5 cm
Flower Color
Yellow
Green
Brown
Leaf type
Semi-evergreen
Ideal Temperature
5 - 38 ℃

Symbolism

Docility

Scientific Classification of Southern cattail

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Southern cattail

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Common issues for Southern cattail based on 10 million real cases
Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Fruit mold
Fruit mold Fruit mold
Fruit mold
Fungal infections can cause mold to grow on the surface of the fruit and may also cause decay.
Solutions: There are some relatively easy steps to stop the spread of fruit mold, but swift action must be taken. Prune away infected fruits or flowers. As soon as lesions or fuzz are seen, cut away the infected parts and dispose of them. Do not compost. Apply fungicide to plants with mild infections (those with severe infections may need to be destroyed). Increase airflow. Since spores are mainly wind born, increasing the airflow around your plants will make them less susceptible to infection. Maintain maximum space between plants and open branch structures during the pruning season.
Rust disease
Rust disease Rust disease
Rust disease
Rust fungus appears as reddish-brown mold deposits on the leaves, stems, and fruits of plants. In certain plants, it also causes reddish-brown spots and galls.
Solutions: Rust disease rarely kills plants, but it can weaken them and leave them vulnerable to other diseases. It's important to treat rust disease as soon as it is spotted. Remove infected leaves: eliminate fungal spores by picking off infected leaves and throwing them in the garbage. Do not compost them since this can spread the fungus to other plants. Use fungicide: A copper spray, sulfur powder, or broad-spectrum fungicide can help control a rust outbreak. Be sure to read all usage instructions carefully before applying. Water smarter: Keep plant leaves dry by watering in the morning so that the midday sun will dry them. It's also smart to use a soaker hose or drip irrigation to water only at the soil level.
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Leaf scorch
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Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Overview
Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
  • Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
  • Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.
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Fruit mold
plant poor
Fruit mold
Fungal infections can cause mold to grow on the surface of the fruit and may also cause decay.
Overview
Overview
Fruit mold is the result of fungal infection by one or more of a wide variety of fungal species. Favoring damp and cool conditions, this problem can have a devastating effect on most fruit crops as it tends to occur just when fruit are reaching maturity. Once mold establishes itself, the fruit quickly decays and becomes inedible. The fungus is capable of spreading quickly to other fruit, either or the same plant or on neighboring plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Symptoms tend to be obvious but are quick to develop.
  1. Brown lesions form on the fruit and occasionally the blossoms. These lesions become soft, mushy, and develop a fuzzy gray or brown coating.
  2. The infection will very quickly spread to any fruit in contact with those that are infected.
  3. Fruit may drop or remain on the plant and mummify over time.
  4. Infection may spread to leaves and new branches, eventually leading to demise of the entire plant .
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
This condition is caused by one of a number of fungal species which all follow a similar cycle. Spores remain dormant on dead plant material over the winter months and then emerge during the spring when they are carried by the wind or insect vectors to the host plant. Once they land on a plant, often facilitated by damp conditions, the spores will gain entry and breed (sporulate) rapidly. Entry to the plant is often through damage caused by sap-sucking insects.
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Rust disease
plant poor
Rust disease
Rust fungus appears as reddish-brown mold deposits on the leaves, stems, and fruits of plants. In certain plants, it also causes reddish-brown spots and galls.
Overview
Overview
Rust disease is a fungus that is most common on the lower leaves of mature plants. If a plant is badly affected, the leaves will deform and eventually drop off the plant. The disease causes blemishes on the leaves that resemble rust spots. It is more common after periods of extended rainfall, as this results in the germination of the fungal spores and the dispersal of the spores onto the plant.
Although rust disease is not fatal for most plants, it can weaken the overall health of the tree and make it more vulnerable to other pests and diseases. Therefore, it's best to remove the affected material and follow good cultural practices to prevent further infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Here are the typical symptoms of rust disease:
  • Slightly raised, white spots on the undersides of the leaves and stems.
  • These spots then turn a reddish-orange color, which indicates the presence of fungal spores.
  • Reddish-orange spots appear on the upper sides of the leaves as well.
  • Eventually, the rust spots form pustules or raised lumps that can turn yellow-green and finally black.
  • Highly infected leaves will become yellow and drop off the plant.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Rust disease is caused by the fungus Phragmidium spp. The fungal spores overwinter inside the stems of the plant and are spread by water and wind. They can be identified by dark, cork-like blotches.
Like most fungal diseases, infection occurs during warm, humid weather, especially when the leaves remain damp for an extended period of time.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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distribution

Distribution of Southern cattail

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Habitat of Southern cattail

Marshes, pools
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Southern cattail

Southern cattail thrives across many continents in both native and introduced contexts, with a particularly wide native distribution that spans tropical, subtropical, and temperate zones. While deliberately cultivated for various purposes, in certain areas, southern cattail is sometimes thought to be an aggressive colonizer, which may have an impact on ecosystems. Its presence as an introduced species has been noted in regions where caution is advised to monitor its growth and potential ecological effects.
distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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care_scenes

More Info on Southern Cattail Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
Southern cattail is a species that flourishes exceptionally well under abundant sunshine. It originates from environments where sunlight is abundant, enhancing its healthy growth. For all growth stages, a similar light standard is needed. It can withstand conditions with no shade. However, too little sunshine may slow its growth while too much could scorch its leaves.
Best Sunlight Practices
Transplant
2-3 feet
The perfect time for relocating southern cattail is the transition period from summer to fall. This allows it to acclimate before winter dormancy. Choose a sun-bathed wet location like marshes. Remember to not disturb all roots, as some must remain settled for them to thrive.
Transplant Techniques
Temperature
-20 - 43 ℃
Southern cattail is indigenous to climates where the temperature ranges from 41 to 100 °F (5 to 38 ℃). It typically thrives in moderate areas, hence temperature regulating measures may be needed during extreme seasons.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Feng shui direction
North
The southern cattail is deemed beneficial in the northern direction according to Feng Shui principles. The north, represented by the water element, complements the southern cattail's inherent associations with water and purifying properties. However, these interpretations are not strictly definitive and may be subject to individual perspectives and expert interpretations.
Fengshui Details
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Plants Related to Southern cattail

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African daisy
African daisy
The african daisy derives its species name, 'pterophorus,' from the Greek meaning 'wing-bearing' which refers to the appearance of the winglike structures on the petioles. This wildflower originates in Africa but has become invasive to Australia most likely through the ballast water of ships around 1930.
Wild carrot
Wild carrot
The wild carrot is a common flowering plant with light, delicate flowers. Originally native to Europe and Asia, it has also spread to North America and Australia. Studies of historical paintings suggest that the wild carrot was cultivated in Turkey, Spain, and North Africa for centuries.
Thimbleberry
Thimbleberry
Thimbleberry has bright red fruits that appear similar to strawberries but resemble thimbles, hence its common name. Its fruits are edible and can be eaten raw. The fruits are also commonly used to make tarts and jams. It can be grown in shady and cool areas.
Sweet woodruff
Sweet woodruff
Sweet woodruff (Galium odoratum) is a perennial herb that grows from 15 to 30 cm tall. Popular for its fragrant leaves and lacy, star-shaped flowers that blossom in spring and summer. It prefers shady locations and makes an excellent ground cover under trees and other shaded conditions. Thrives in moist, well-drained soil.
Star apple
Star apple
Other names for Chrysophyllum cainito (*Chrysophyllum cainito*) include purple star apple, golden leaf tree, and milk fruit. The fruit is delicious, especially when served chilled. However, it not only tastes good, but it also has potent antioxidant properties. They call it “bobi wata” or "breast milk fruit" in Sierra Leone.
Shack shack
Shack shack
Many US states classify shack shack (Crotalaria retusa) as a noxious weed since it is a fast-spreading, drought-tolerant plant. The plant is toxic to humans and livestock, containing pyrrolizidine alkaloids. However, despite all these negatives shack shack at least produces attractive hood-shaped yellow flowers.
Poison ivy
Poison ivy
In pop culture, poison ivy is a symbol of an obnoxious weed because, despite its unthreatening looks, it gives a highly unpleasant contact rash to the unfortunate person who touches it. Still, it is commonly eaten by many animals, and the seeds are a favorite with birds. The leaves turn bright red in fall. Its sister species, Western poison ivy (Toxicodendron rydbergii), is not considered to be invasive in the United States, but is noxious in Australia and New Zealand.
Pokeweed
Pokeweed
Although its berries look juicy and tempting, the fruits and the root of pokeweed are toxic and should not be eaten. Pokeweed is considered a pest species by farmers but is nevertheless often grown as an ornamental plant. Its berries can be made into pokeberry ink as well.
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Related Plants
Southern cattail
Southern cattail
Southern cattail
Southern cattail
Southern cattail
Southern cattail
Southern cattail
Typha domingensis
Also known as: Southern bulrush, Narrow-leaf cumbungi
Southern cattail is a perennial found across the globe. It is known to reduce the bacterial contamination of water. This aquatic herb can be highly invasive and take over small ponds where little other foliage grows. The leaves have been used by Native Americans for thatching roofs of huts and the pulp of the seed pods as stuffing for bedding.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
5 to 12
more
care guide

Care Guide for Southern cattail

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Questions About Southern cattail

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Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Southern cattail?
more
What should I do if I water my Southern cattail too much or too little?
more
How often should I water my Southern cattail?
more
How much water does my Southern cattail need?
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How should I water my Southern cattail at different growth stages?
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How should I water my Southern cattail through the seasons?
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What's the difference between watering my Southern cattail indoors and outdoors?
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Key Facts About Southern cattail

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Attributes of Southern cattail

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Herb
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer, Fall
Plant Height
1.8 m to 3.5 m
Spread
1.8 m
Flower Size
2.5 cm
Flower Color
Yellow
Green
Brown
Leaf type
Semi-evergreen
Ideal Temperature
5 - 38 ℃
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Symbolism

Docility

Scientific Classification of Southern cattail

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Common Pests & Diseases About Southern cattail

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Common issues for Southern cattail based on 10 million real cases
Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch Leaf scorch Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Learn More About the Leaf scorch more
Fruit mold
Fruit mold Fruit mold Fruit mold
Fungal infections can cause mold to grow on the surface of the fruit and may also cause decay.
Solutions: There are some relatively easy steps to stop the spread of fruit mold, but swift action must be taken. Prune away infected fruits or flowers. As soon as lesions or fuzz are seen, cut away the infected parts and dispose of them. Do not compost. Apply fungicide to plants with mild infections (those with severe infections may need to be destroyed). Increase airflow. Since spores are mainly wind born, increasing the airflow around your plants will make them less susceptible to infection. Maintain maximum space between plants and open branch structures during the pruning season.
Learn More About the Fruit mold more
Rust disease
Rust disease Rust disease Rust disease
Rust fungus appears as reddish-brown mold deposits on the leaves, stems, and fruits of plants. In certain plants, it also causes reddish-brown spots and galls.
Solutions: Rust disease rarely kills plants, but it can weaken them and leave them vulnerable to other diseases. It's important to treat rust disease as soon as it is spotted. Remove infected leaves: eliminate fungal spores by picking off infected leaves and throwing them in the garbage. Do not compost them since this can spread the fungus to other plants. Use fungicide: A copper spray, sulfur powder, or broad-spectrum fungicide can help control a rust outbreak. Be sure to read all usage instructions carefully before applying. Water smarter: Keep plant leaves dry by watering in the morning so that the midday sun will dry them. It's also smart to use a soaker hose or drip irrigation to water only at the soil level.
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Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Leaf scorch
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Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Overview
Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
  • Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
  • Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms.
  • Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves.
  • Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement.
  • Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation.
  • If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach.
  • If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry.
  • Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections.
  • If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Physiological leaf scorch is best avoided by making sure your plants have a healthy, functional root system and access to enough water. Water regularly, especially on the mornings of excessively hot, sunny days. Deep, infrequent irrigation is better than shallow, frequent irrigation.
  • Have your soil tested and apply the proper nutrients. Be sure to not over-apply fertilizers.
  • Make sure your plants’ roots have room to expand. Avoid compacted soil as well and avoid paving areas above the root zone. Do not till or disturb the soil where plant roots are growing.
  • Plant new trees and shrubs in the fall, so that they have the maximum amount of time to become established before the environmental stresses of the next summer.
  • Remove any dead or dying plant tissue that may harbor secondary infections.
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Fruit mold
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Fruit mold
Fungal infections can cause mold to grow on the surface of the fruit and may also cause decay.
Overview
Overview
Fruit mold is the result of fungal infection by one or more of a wide variety of fungal species. Favoring damp and cool conditions, this problem can have a devastating effect on most fruit crops as it tends to occur just when fruit are reaching maturity. Once mold establishes itself, the fruit quickly decays and becomes inedible. The fungus is capable of spreading quickly to other fruit, either or the same plant or on neighboring plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Symptoms tend to be obvious but are quick to develop.
  1. Brown lesions form on the fruit and occasionally the blossoms. These lesions become soft, mushy, and develop a fuzzy gray or brown coating.
  2. The infection will very quickly spread to any fruit in contact with those that are infected.
  3. Fruit may drop or remain on the plant and mummify over time.
  4. Infection may spread to leaves and new branches, eventually leading to demise of the entire plant .
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
This condition is caused by one of a number of fungal species which all follow a similar cycle. Spores remain dormant on dead plant material over the winter months and then emerge during the spring when they are carried by the wind or insect vectors to the host plant. Once they land on a plant, often facilitated by damp conditions, the spores will gain entry and breed (sporulate) rapidly. Entry to the plant is often through damage caused by sap-sucking insects.
Solutions
Solutions
There are some relatively easy steps to stop the spread of fruit mold, but swift action must be taken.
  1. Prune away infected fruits or flowers. As soon as lesions or fuzz are seen, cut away the infected parts and dispose of them. Do not compost.
  2. Apply fungicide to plants with mild infections (those with severe infections may need to be destroyed).
  3. Increase airflow. Since spores are mainly wind born, increasing the airflow around your plants will make them less susceptible to infection. Maintain maximum space between plants and open branch structures during the pruning season.
Prevention
Prevention
There are easy, preventative steps the gardener can take to stop mold from attacking fruits and fruit-bearing plants:
  1. Rake up rotting debris when the growing season is over. Fungi can overwinter on rotting debris and reinfect plants the following season. Clear the ground beneath fruit trees and remove hanging mummified fruit.
  2. Prune off any infected branches.
  3. Burn all infected debris.
  4. Preemptively apply fungicide to susceptible plants, especially in the spring. This can help prevent infections from progressing to a stage where fruits are affected.
  5. Don't overcrowd when planting. Overcrowding will reduce air circulation, leaving plants wetter for longer and increasing the chance of infection.
  6. Use drip irrigation instead of overhead irrigation. This will help keep plant surfaces free of moisture, while still ensuring roots are getting enough water. Hose-watering should be performed early in the day, with the spray directed at the base of plants.
  7. Don't over-fertilize early in the spring. Added nutrients will increase leaf size. As leaves can hold moisture and provide a surface for spores to adhere to, this can increase the chance that mold grows on the plant. Fertilizing later in the season, when fruits are ripening, means additional nutrients will be directed towards those fruits, rather than leaves.
  8. Insect prevention measures will reduce wounds on plants and decrease access points for fungal spores.
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Rust disease
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Rust disease
Rust fungus appears as reddish-brown mold deposits on the leaves, stems, and fruits of plants. In certain plants, it also causes reddish-brown spots and galls.
Overview
Overview
Rust disease is a fungus that is most common on the lower leaves of mature plants. If a plant is badly affected, the leaves will deform and eventually drop off the plant. The disease causes blemishes on the leaves that resemble rust spots. It is more common after periods of extended rainfall, as this results in the germination of the fungal spores and the dispersal of the spores onto the plant.
Although rust disease is not fatal for most plants, it can weaken the overall health of the tree and make it more vulnerable to other pests and diseases. Therefore, it's best to remove the affected material and follow good cultural practices to prevent further infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Here are the typical symptoms of rust disease:
  • Slightly raised, white spots on the undersides of the leaves and stems.
  • These spots then turn a reddish-orange color, which indicates the presence of fungal spores.
  • Reddish-orange spots appear on the upper sides of the leaves as well.
  • Eventually, the rust spots form pustules or raised lumps that can turn yellow-green and finally black.
  • Highly infected leaves will become yellow and drop off the plant.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Rust disease is caused by the fungus Phragmidium spp. The fungal spores overwinter inside the stems of the plant and are spread by water and wind. They can be identified by dark, cork-like blotches.
Like most fungal diseases, infection occurs during warm, humid weather, especially when the leaves remain damp for an extended period of time.
Solutions
Solutions
Rust disease rarely kills plants, but it can weaken them and leave them vulnerable to other diseases. It's important to treat rust disease as soon as it is spotted.
  1. Remove infected leaves: eliminate fungal spores by picking off infected leaves and throwing them in the garbage. Do not compost them since this can spread the fungus to other plants.
  2. Use fungicide: A copper spray, sulfur powder, or broad-spectrum fungicide can help control a rust outbreak. Be sure to read all usage instructions carefully before applying.
  3. Water smarter: Keep plant leaves dry by watering in the morning so that the midday sun will dry them. It's also smart to use a soaker hose or drip irrigation to water only at the soil level.
Prevention
Prevention
The best way to prevent rust diseases is by planting resistant varieties. Most nurseries will specify which species qualify. When introducing new plants, check the plants for signs of rust before planting.
Rust disease often spreads through watering, or when working with wet plants, so take care not to touch an infected plant and accidentally spread spores to healthy ones. Keep vulnerable plants well-pruned to maximize airflow and prevent moisture build-up.
If the soil is contaminated, it's also a good idea to lay down thick mulch around the base of plants. This prevents spores from splashing up to hit plant leaves while watering.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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distribution

Distribution of Southern cattail

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Habitat of Southern cattail

Marshes, pools
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Southern cattail

Southern cattail thrives across many continents in both native and introduced contexts, with a particularly wide native distribution that spans tropical, subtropical, and temperate zones. While deliberately cultivated for various purposes, in certain areas, southern cattail is sometimes thought to be an aggressive colonizer, which may have an impact on ecosystems. Its presence as an introduced species has been noted in regions where caution is advised to monitor its growth and potential ecological effects.
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Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Southern Cattail Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
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Plants Related to Southern cattail

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Lighting
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Outdoor
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Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Southern cattail is a species that flourishes exceptionally well under abundant sunshine. It originates from environments where sunlight is abundant, enhancing its healthy growth. For all growth stages, a similar light standard is needed. It can withstand conditions with no shade. However, too little sunshine may slow its growth while too much could scorch its leaves.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Southern cattail thrives in full sunlight and is commonly grown outdoors where it receives ample sunlight. When placed in rooms with inadequate lighting, symptoms of light deficiency may not be readily apparent.
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Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Southern cattail may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Southern cattail enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Southern cattail thrives in full sun exposure and can tolerate intense sunlight. With their remarkable resilience, symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible, as they rarely suffer from it.
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Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Southern cattail is indigenous to climates where the temperature ranges from 41 to 100 °F (5 to 38 ℃). It typically thrives in moderate areas, hence temperature regulating measures may be needed during extreme seasons.
Regional wintering strategies
Southern cattail has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by covering the plant with materials such as soil or straw. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in Southern cattail
Southern cattail is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, there may be a decrease in sprouting or even no sprouting during springtime.
Solutions
In spring, remove any parts that have failed to sprout.
Symptoms of High Temperature in Southern cattail
During summer, Southern cattail should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, prone to curling, susceptible to sunburn, and in severe cases, the entire plant may wilt and become dry.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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