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Dwarf bulrush
Typha minima
Also known as : Least bulrush, Dwarf reedmace
Dwarf bulrush is a popular hardy semi-evergreen for small ponds and large aquatic tubs. It is best planted in a water basket due to the creeping nature of its rhizomes. This pond plant flowers in the summer, with its seed heads bursting in the spring. It can be used for dried flower arrangements.
Care Guide for Dwarf bulrush
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Dwarf bulrush
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Once per day
Questions About Dwarf bulrush
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Watering 
Pruning 
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Fertilizing What is the best way to water my Dwarf bulrush?
When watering the Dwarf bulrush, you should aim to use filtered water that is at room temperature. Filtered water is better for this plant, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to its health. The reason that the water should be at room temperature or slightly warmer is that the Dwarf bulrush comes from a warm environment, and cold water can be somewhat of a shock to its system. Also, you should avoid overhead watering for this plant, as it can cause foliage complications. Instead, simply apply your filtered room temperature water to the soil until the soil is entirely soaked. Soaking the soil can be very beneficial for this plant as it moistens the roots and helps them continue to spread through the soil and collect the nutrients they need.
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What should I do if I water my Dwarf bulrush too much or too little?
Both overwatering and underwatering will be detrimental to the health of your Dwarf bulrush, but overwatering is a far more common issue. When this species receives too much water, its stems and leaves may begin to wilt and turn from green to yellow. Overwatering over a prolonged period may also lead to diseases such as root rot, mold, and mildew, all of which can kill your plant. Underwatering is far less common for the Dwarf bulrush, as this plant has decent drought tolerance. However, underwatering remains a possibility, and when it occurs, you can expect to find that the leaves of your Dwarf bulrush have become brittle and brown.
It is crucial that you notice the signs of overwatering as soon as possible when caring for your Dwarf bulrush. Some of the diseases that arise from overwatering, such as root rot, may not be correctable if you wait too long. If you see early signs of overwatering, you should reduce your watering schedule immediately. You may also want to assess the quality of soil in which your Dwarf bulrush grows. If you find that the soil drains very poorly, you should replace it immediately with a loose, well-draining potting mix. On the other hand, if you find signs that your Dwarf bulrush is receiving too little water, all you need to do is water more regularly until those signs have subsided.
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How often should I water my Dwarf bulrush?
If your plant is in a pot. The most precise way to decide whether your Dwarf bulrush needs water is to plunge your finger into the soil. If you notice that the first two to three inches of soil have become dry, it is time to add some water.
If you grow your Dwarf bulrush outdoors in the ground, you can use a similar method to test the soil. Again, when you find that the first few inches of soil have dried out, it is time to add water. During the spring and early fall, this method will often lead you to water this plant about once every week. When extremely hot weather arrives, you may need to increase your watering frequency to about twice or more per week. With that said, mature, well-established the Dwarf bulrush can show an admirable ability to withstand drought.
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How much water does my Dwarf bulrush need?
When it comes time to water your Dwarf bulrush, you should not be shy about how much water you give. With the first two to three inches of soil dry, this plant will appreciate a long and thorough watering. Supply enough water to soak the soil entirely. The amount of water you add should be enough to cause excess water to flow through the drainage holes at the bottom of your pot. If you don’t see excess water draining from the pot, you have likely underwatered your plant. But do not let the water accumulate inside the soil, which will be very dangerous to the plant as well. Alternatively, a lack of water draining through the pot could indicate poorly draining soils, which is detrimental to the health of this plant and should be avoided. If the plant is outside, 1 inch of rain per week will be sufficient.
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How should I water my Dwarf bulrush at different growth stages?
The water needs of the Dwarf bulrush can change depending on growth stages as well. For example, when your Dwarf bulrush is in the first few years of its life, or if you have just transplanted it to a new growing location, you will need to give more water than usual. During both of those stages, your Dwarf bulrush will put a lot of energy towards sprouting new roots that will then support future growth. For those roots to perform their best, they need a bit more moisture than they would at a more mature phase. After a few seasons, your Dwarf bulrush will need much less water. Another growth stage in which this plant may need more water is during the bloom period. Flower development can make use of a significant amount of moisture, which is why you might need to give your Dwarf bulrush more water at this time.
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How should I water my Dwarf bulrush through the seasons?
The Dwarf bulrush will have its highest water needs during the hottest months of the year. During the height of summer, you may need to give this plant water more than once per week, depending on how fast the soil dries out. The opposite is true during the winter. In winter, your plant will enter a dormant phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. In fact, you may not need to water this plant at all during the winter months. However, if you do water during winter, you should not do so more than about once per month. Watering too much at this time will make it more likely that your Dwarf bulrush will contract a disease.
Read More ![more]()
What's the difference between watering my Dwarf bulrush indoors and outdoors?
It is most common to grow the Dwarf bulrush indoors for any gardener that does not live in temperate and tropical regions. Those gardeners should consider the fact that soil in a container can dry out a bit faster than ground soil. Also, the presence of drying elements such as air conditioning units can cause your Dwarf bulrush to need water on a more frequent basis as well. if you planted it outside. When that is the case, it’s likely you won’t need to water your Dwarf bulrush very much at all. If you receive rainfall on a regular basis, that may be enough to keep your plant alive. Alternatively, those who grow this plant inside will need to water it more often, as allowing rainwater to soak the soil will not be an option.
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Key Facts About Dwarf bulrush
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Attributes of Dwarf bulrush
Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Herb
Plant Height
75 cm
Spread
45 cm
Flower Size
2.5 cm to 5 cm
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Green
Brown
Leaf type
Deciduous
Scientific Classification of Dwarf bulrush
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Common Pests & Diseases About Dwarf bulrush
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Common issues for Dwarf bulrush based on 10 million real cases
Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Fruit mold
Fungal infections can cause mold to grow on the surface of the fruit and may also cause decay.
Solutions: There are some relatively easy steps to stop the spread of fruit mold, but swift action must be taken. Prune away infected fruits or flowers. As soon as lesions or fuzz are seen, cut away the infected parts and dispose of them. Do not compost. Apply fungicide to plants with mild infections (those with severe infections may need to be destroyed). Increase airflow. Since spores are mainly wind born, increasing the airflow around your plants will make them less susceptible to infection. Maintain maximum space between plants and open branch structures during the pruning season.
Rust disease
Rust fungus appears as reddish-brown mold deposits on the leaves, stems, and fruits of plants. In certain plants, it also causes reddish-brown spots and galls.
Solutions: Rust disease rarely kills plants, but it can weaken them and leave them vulnerable to other diseases. It's important to treat rust disease as soon as it is spotted. Remove infected leaves: eliminate fungal spores by picking off infected leaves and throwing them in the garbage. Do not compost them since this can spread the fungus to other plants. Use fungicide: A copper spray, sulfur powder, or broad-spectrum fungicide can help control a rust outbreak. Be sure to read all usage instructions carefully before applying. Water smarter: Keep plant leaves dry by watering in the morning so that the midday sun will dry them. It's also smart to use a soaker hose or drip irrigation to water only at the soil level.
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Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.
Symptom Analysis
- Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
- Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
- Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue
Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.
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Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.
Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
- Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
- Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
- Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
- Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.
Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
- Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
- Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
- Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
- Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
- Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
- Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
- Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
- Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
- Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
- Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
- Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
- Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
- Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
- Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
- Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
- Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
- Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
- Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Fruit mold
Fungal infections can cause mold to grow on the surface of the fruit and may also cause decay.
Overview
Fruit mold is the result of fungal infection by one or more of a wide variety of fungal species. Favoring damp and cool conditions, this problem can have a devastating effect on most fruit crops as it tends to occur just when fruit are reaching maturity. Once mold establishes itself, the fruit quickly decays and becomes inedible. The fungus is capable of spreading quickly to other fruit, either or the same plant or on neighboring plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptoms tend to be obvious but are quick to develop.
- Brown lesions form on the fruit and occasionally the blossoms. These lesions become soft, mushy, and develop a fuzzy gray or brown coating.
- The infection will very quickly spread to any fruit in contact with those that are infected.
- Fruit may drop or remain on the plant and mummify over time.
- Infection may spread to leaves and new branches, eventually leading to demise of the entire plant .
Disease Cause
This condition is caused by one of a number of fungal species which all follow a similar cycle. Spores remain dormant on dead plant material over the winter months and then emerge during the spring when they are carried by the wind or insect vectors to the host plant. Once they land on a plant, often facilitated by damp conditions, the spores will gain entry and breed (sporulate) rapidly. Entry to the plant is often through damage caused by sap-sucking insects.
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Rust disease
Rust fungus appears as reddish-brown mold deposits on the leaves, stems, and fruits of plants. In certain plants, it also causes reddish-brown spots and galls.
Overview
Rust disease is a fungus that is most common on the lower leaves of mature plants. If a plant is badly affected, the leaves will deform and eventually drop off the plant. The disease causes blemishes on the leaves that resemble rust spots. It is more common after periods of extended rainfall, as this results in the germination of the fungal spores and the dispersal of the spores onto the plant.
Although rust disease is not fatal for most plants, it can weaken the overall health of the tree and make it more vulnerable to other pests and diseases. Therefore, it's best to remove the affected material and follow good cultural practices to prevent further infection.
Symptom Analysis
Here are the typical symptoms of rust disease:
- Slightly raised, white spots on the undersides of the leaves and stems.
- These spots then turn a reddish-orange color, which indicates the presence of fungal spores.
- Reddish-orange spots appear on the upper sides of the leaves as well.
- Eventually, the rust spots form pustules or raised lumps that can turn yellow-green and finally black.
- Highly infected leaves will become yellow and drop off the plant.
Disease Cause
Rust disease is caused by the fungus Phragmidium spp. The fungal spores overwinter inside the stems of the plant and are spread by water and wind. They can be identified by dark, cork-like blotches.
Like most fungal diseases, infection occurs during warm, humid weather, especially when the leaves remain damp for an extended period of time.
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Distribution of Dwarf bulrush
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Distribution Map of Dwarf bulrush
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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About
Care Guide
Care FAQ
More Info
Pests & Diseases
Distribution
Dwarf bulrush
Typha minima
Also known as: Least bulrush, Dwarf reedmace
Dwarf bulrush is a popular hardy semi-evergreen for small ponds and large aquatic tubs. It is best planted in a water basket due to the creeping nature of its rhizomes. This pond plant flowers in the summer, with its seed heads bursting in the spring. It can be used for dried flower arrangements.
Care Guide for Dwarf bulrush
Feedback
Know the light your plants really get.
Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.
Download the App
Download
Questions About Dwarf bulrush
Feedback
Watering Pruning Sunlight Fertilizing What is the best way to water my Dwarf bulrush?
What should I do if I water my Dwarf bulrush too much or too little?
How often should I water my Dwarf bulrush?
How much water does my Dwarf bulrush need?
How should I water my Dwarf bulrush at different growth stages?
How should I water my Dwarf bulrush through the seasons?
What's the difference between watering my Dwarf bulrush indoors and outdoors?
Get tips and tricks for your plants.
Keep your plants happy and healthy with our guide to watering, lighting, feeding and more.
Download the App
More Questions People Also Ask
Key Facts About Dwarf bulrush
Feedback
Attributes of Dwarf bulrush
Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Herb
Plant Height
75 cm
Spread
45 cm
Flower Size
2.5 cm to 5 cm
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Green
Brown
Leaf type
Deciduous
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Scientific Classification of Dwarf bulrush
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Common Pests & Diseases About Dwarf bulrush
Feedback
Common issues for Dwarf bulrush based on 10 million real cases
Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Learn More About the Leaf scorch ![more]()
Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Learn More About the Fruit withering ![more]()
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Learn More About the Plant dried up ![more]()
Fruit mold
Fungal infections can cause mold to grow on the surface of the fruit and may also cause decay.
Solutions: There are some relatively easy steps to stop the spread of fruit mold, but swift action must be taken. Prune away infected fruits or flowers. As soon as lesions or fuzz are seen, cut away the infected parts and dispose of them. Do not compost. Apply fungicide to plants with mild infections (those with severe infections may need to be destroyed). Increase airflow. Since spores are mainly wind born, increasing the airflow around your plants will make them less susceptible to infection. Maintain maximum space between plants and open branch structures during the pruning season.
Learn More About the Fruit mold ![more]()
Rust disease
Rust fungus appears as reddish-brown mold deposits on the leaves, stems, and fruits of plants. In certain plants, it also causes reddish-brown spots and galls.
Solutions: Rust disease rarely kills plants, but it can weaken them and leave them vulnerable to other diseases. It's important to treat rust disease as soon as it is spotted. Remove infected leaves: eliminate fungal spores by picking off infected leaves and throwing them in the garbage. Do not compost them since this can spread the fungus to other plants. Use fungicide: A copper spray, sulfur powder, or broad-spectrum fungicide can help control a rust outbreak. Be sure to read all usage instructions carefully before applying. Water smarter: Keep plant leaves dry by watering in the morning so that the midday sun will dry them. It's also smart to use a soaker hose or drip irrigation to water only at the soil level.
Learn More About the Rust disease ![more]()
Treat and prevent plant diseases.
AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
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Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.
Symptom Analysis
- Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
- Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
- Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue
Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.
Solutions
The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms.
- Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves.
- Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement.
- Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation.
- If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach.
- If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry.
- Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections.
- If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Prevention
- Physiological leaf scorch is best avoided by making sure your plants have a healthy, functional root system and access to enough water. Water regularly, especially on the mornings of excessively hot, sunny days. Deep, infrequent irrigation is better than shallow, frequent irrigation.
- Have your soil tested and apply the proper nutrients. Be sure to not over-apply fertilizers.
- Make sure your plants’ roots have room to expand. Avoid compacted soil as well and avoid paving areas above the root zone. Do not till or disturb the soil where plant roots are growing.
- Plant new trees and shrubs in the fall, so that they have the maximum amount of time to become established before the environmental stresses of the next summer.
- Remove any dead or dying plant tissue that may harbor secondary infections.
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Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.
Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
- Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
- Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
- Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
- Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.
Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.
Solutions
There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering:
- Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost.
- Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Prevention
Preventative measures include:
- Ensuring adequate spacing between plants or trees.
- Staking plants that are prone to tumbling to prevent moisture or humidity build up.
- Prune correctly so that there is adequate air movement and remove any dead or diseased branches that may carry spores.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing fallen material and destroying it as soon as possible.
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
- Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
- Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
- Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
- Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
- Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
- Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
- Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
- Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
- Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
- Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
- Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
- Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
- Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
- Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
- Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
- Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
- Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
- Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Fruit mold
Fungal infections can cause mold to grow on the surface of the fruit and may also cause decay.
Overview
Fruit mold is the result of fungal infection by one or more of a wide variety of fungal species. Favoring damp and cool conditions, this problem can have a devastating effect on most fruit crops as it tends to occur just when fruit are reaching maturity. Once mold establishes itself, the fruit quickly decays and becomes inedible. The fungus is capable of spreading quickly to other fruit, either or the same plant or on neighboring plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptoms tend to be obvious but are quick to develop.
- Brown lesions form on the fruit and occasionally the blossoms. These lesions become soft, mushy, and develop a fuzzy gray or brown coating.
- The infection will very quickly spread to any fruit in contact with those that are infected.
- Fruit may drop or remain on the plant and mummify over time.
- Infection may spread to leaves and new branches, eventually leading to demise of the entire plant .
Disease Cause
This condition is caused by one of a number of fungal species which all follow a similar cycle. Spores remain dormant on dead plant material over the winter months and then emerge during the spring when they are carried by the wind or insect vectors to the host plant. Once they land on a plant, often facilitated by damp conditions, the spores will gain entry and breed (sporulate) rapidly. Entry to the plant is often through damage caused by sap-sucking insects.
Solutions
There are some relatively easy steps to stop the spread of fruit mold, but swift action must be taken.
- Prune away infected fruits or flowers. As soon as lesions or fuzz are seen, cut away the infected parts and dispose of them. Do not compost.
- Apply fungicide to plants with mild infections (those with severe infections may need to be destroyed).
- Increase airflow. Since spores are mainly wind born, increasing the airflow around your plants will make them less susceptible to infection. Maintain maximum space between plants and open branch structures during the pruning season.
Prevention
There are easy, preventative steps the gardener can take to stop mold from attacking fruits and fruit-bearing plants:
- Rake up rotting debris when the growing season is over. Fungi can overwinter on rotting debris and reinfect plants the following season. Clear the ground beneath fruit trees and remove hanging mummified fruit.
- Prune off any infected branches.
- Burn all infected debris.
- Preemptively apply fungicide to susceptible plants, especially in the spring. This can help prevent infections from progressing to a stage where fruits are affected.
- Don't overcrowd when planting. Overcrowding will reduce air circulation, leaving plants wetter for longer and increasing the chance of infection.
- Use drip irrigation instead of overhead irrigation. This will help keep plant surfaces free of moisture, while still ensuring roots are getting enough water. Hose-watering should be performed early in the day, with the spray directed at the base of plants.
- Don't over-fertilize early in the spring. Added nutrients will increase leaf size. As leaves can hold moisture and provide a surface for spores to adhere to, this can increase the chance that mold grows on the plant. Fertilizing later in the season, when fruits are ripening, means additional nutrients will be directed towards those fruits, rather than leaves.
- Insect prevention measures will reduce wounds on plants and decrease access points for fungal spores.
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Rust disease
Rust fungus appears as reddish-brown mold deposits on the leaves, stems, and fruits of plants. In certain plants, it also causes reddish-brown spots and galls.
Overview
Rust disease is a fungus that is most common on the lower leaves of mature plants. If a plant is badly affected, the leaves will deform and eventually drop off the plant. The disease causes blemishes on the leaves that resemble rust spots. It is more common after periods of extended rainfall, as this results in the germination of the fungal spores and the dispersal of the spores onto the plant.
Although rust disease is not fatal for most plants, it can weaken the overall health of the tree and make it more vulnerable to other pests and diseases. Therefore, it's best to remove the affected material and follow good cultural practices to prevent further infection.
Symptom Analysis
Here are the typical symptoms of rust disease:
- Slightly raised, white spots on the undersides of the leaves and stems.
- These spots then turn a reddish-orange color, which indicates the presence of fungal spores.
- Reddish-orange spots appear on the upper sides of the leaves as well.
- Eventually, the rust spots form pustules or raised lumps that can turn yellow-green and finally black.
- Highly infected leaves will become yellow and drop off the plant.
Disease Cause
Rust disease is caused by the fungus Phragmidium spp. The fungal spores overwinter inside the stems of the plant and are spread by water and wind. They can be identified by dark, cork-like blotches.
Like most fungal diseases, infection occurs during warm, humid weather, especially when the leaves remain damp for an extended period of time.
Solutions
Rust disease rarely kills plants, but it can weaken them and leave them vulnerable to other diseases. It's important to treat rust disease as soon as it is spotted.
- Remove infected leaves: eliminate fungal spores by picking off infected leaves and throwing them in the garbage. Do not compost them since this can spread the fungus to other plants.
- Use fungicide: A copper spray, sulfur powder, or broad-spectrum fungicide can help control a rust outbreak. Be sure to read all usage instructions carefully before applying.
- Water smarter: Keep plant leaves dry by watering in the morning so that the midday sun will dry them. It's also smart to use a soaker hose or drip irrigation to water only at the soil level.
Prevention
The best way to prevent rust diseases is by planting resistant varieties. Most nurseries will specify which species qualify. When introducing new plants, check the plants for signs of rust before planting.
Rust disease often spreads through watering, or when working with wet plants, so take care not to touch an infected plant and accidentally spread spores to healthy ones. Keep vulnerable plants well-pruned to maximize airflow and prevent moisture build-up.
If the soil is contaminated, it's also a good idea to lay down thick mulch around the base of plants. This prevents spores from splashing up to hit plant leaves while watering.
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Distribution of Dwarf bulrush
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Distribution Map of Dwarf bulrush
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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