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Coastal rosemary
Coastal rosemary
Coastal rosemary
Coastal rosemary
Coastal rosemary
Coastal rosemary
Coastal rosemary
Westringia fruticosa
Although related to culinary rosemary, coastal rosemary (Westringia fruticosa) is not edible. However, it is a hardy shrub with white hairy flowers that grows in coastal areas and on sand dunes. Coastal rosemary thrives in a variety of soil types and flowers year round.
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring, Early summer
care guide

Care Guide for Coastal rosemary

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Watering Care
Watering Care
Average water needs, watering when the top 3 cm of soil has dried out.
Details on Watering Care Watering Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilization once in spring.
Details on Fertilizing Care Fertilizing Care
Pruning
Pruning
Trim the diseased, withered leaves once a month.
Details on Pruning Pruning
Soil Care
Soil Care
Sand, Loam, Neutral, Alkaline
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
Repotting
Repotting
Needs excellent drainage in pots.
Details on Repotting Repotting
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Coastal rosemary
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
9 to 11
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring, Early summer
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Questions About Coastal rosemary

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Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Coastal rosemary?
Your Coastal rosemary will not be too picky about how you choose to water it. As such, you can use just about any common watering tool to moisten this plant’s soil. Watering cans, hoses, and even cups will work just fine when it is time to water your Coastal rosemary. Regardless of which watering tool you use, you should typically apply the water directly to the soil. In doing so, you should ensure that you moisten all soil areas equally to give all parts of the root system the water it needs. It can help to use filtered water, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to plants. It is also beneficial to use water that is at or slightly above room temperature, as colder or hotter water can be somewhat shocking to the Coastal rosemary. However, the Coastal rosemary usually responds well to any kind of water you give it.
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What should I do if I water my Coastal rosemary too much or too little?
For outdoor plants, especially newly planted plants or plant seedlings, they can be prone to lack of watering. Remember that you need to keep watering enough for a few months when the tree is small or just planted. This is because once the roots are established, Coastal rosemary can rely on rain most of the time.
When your Coastal rosemary is planted in pots, overwatering is often more likely to.When you accidentally overwater your Coastal rosemary, you should be prepared to remedy the situation immediately. First, you should stop watering your plant right away to minimize the effect of your overwatering. After, you should consider removing your Coastal rosemary from its pot to inspect its roots. If you find that none of the roots have developed root rot, it may be permissible to return your plant to its container. If you do discover signs of root rot, then you should trim away any roots that have been affected. You may also want to apply a fungicide to prevent further damage. Lastly, you should repot your Coastal rosemary in soil that is well-draining. In the case of an underwatered Coastal rosemary, simply water this plant more frequently.
Underwatering is often an easy fix. If you underwater, the plant's leaves will tend to droop and dry out and fall off, and the leaves will quickly return to fullness after sufficient watering. Please correct your watering frequency as soon as underwatering occurs.
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How often should I water my Coastal rosemary?
Most plants that grow naturally outdoors can be allowed to grow normally with rainfall. If your area lacks rainfall, consider giving your plants adequate watering every 2 weeks during the spring and fall. More frequent watering is needed in summer. In winter, when growth becomes slower and plants need less water, water more sparingly. Throughout the winter, you may not give it additional watering at all. If your Coastal rosemary is young or newly planted, then you should water more frequently to help it establish, and mature and grow up to have more adaptable and drought tolerant plants.
For potted plants, there are two main ways that you can determine how often to water your Coastal rosemary. The first way is to set a predetermined watering schedule. If you choose this route, you should plan to water this plant about once every week or once every other week. However, this approach may not always work as it does not consider the unique conditions of the growing environment for your Coastal rosemary .
Your watering frequency can also change depending on the season. For instance, a predetermined watering schedule will likely not suffice during summer when this plant's water needs are highest. An alternative route is to set your watering frequency based on soil moisture. Typically, it is best to wait until the first two to four inches of soil, usually ⅓ to ½ depth of the pots, have dried out entirely before you give more water.
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How much water does my Coastal rosemary need?
When it comes time to water your Coastal rosemary, you may be surprised to find that this plant does not always need a high volume of water. Instead, if only a few inches of soil have dried since your last watering, you can support healthy growth in the Coastal rosemary by giving it about five to ten ounces of water every time you water. You can also decide your water volume based on soil moisture. As mentioned above, you should note how many inches of soil have dried out between waterings. A surefire way to make sure your Coastal rosemary gets the moisture it needs is to supply enough water to moisten all the soil layers that became dry since the last time you watered. If more than half of the soil has become dry, you should consider giving more water than usual. In those cases, continue adding water until you see excess water draining from your pot’s drainage holes.
If your Coastal rosemary is planted in an area that gets plenty of rain outdoors, it may not need additional watering. When the Coastal rosemary is young or just getting established, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As it continues to grow and establish, it can survive entirely on rainwater and only when the weather is hot and there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving your Coastal rosemary a full watering to prevent them from suffering stress.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Coastal rosemary enough?
Overwatering is a far more common problem for the Coastal rosemary, and there are several signs you should look for when this occurs. Generally, an overwatered Coastal rosemary will have yellowing leaves and may even drop some leaves. Also, overwatering can cause the overall structure of your plant to shrivel and may also promote root rot. On the other hand, an underwatered Coastal rosemary will also begin to wilt. It may also display leaves that are brown or brittle to the touch. Whether you see signs of overwatering or underwatering, you should be prepared to intervene and restore the health of your Coastal rosemary.
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How can I water my Coastal rosemary at different growth stages?
When the Coastal rosemary is very young, such as when it is in a seedling stage, you will need to give it more water than you would if it were at a mature age. During the early stages of this plant’s life, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist to encourage root development. The same is true for any Coastal rosemary that you have transplanted to a new growing location. Also, the Coastal rosemary can develop showy flowers and fruits when you give them the correct care. If your Coastal rosemary is in a flowering or fruiting phase, you will likely need to give a bit more water than you usually would to support these plant structures.
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How can I water my Coastal rosemary through the seasons?
The seasonal changes will affect how often you water your Coastal rosemary. Mainly, during the hottest summer months, you will likely need to increase how much you water this plant, especially if it grows in an area that receives ample sunlight. Strong summer sunlight can cause soil to dry out much faster than usual, meaning that you’ll need to water more frequently. By contrast, your Coastal rosemary will need much less water during the winter, as it will not be in an active growing phase. During winter, you can get by with watering once every 2 to 3 weeks or sometimes not at all. For those growing this plant indoors, you should be somewhat wary of appliances such as air conditioners, which can cause your plant to dry out more quickly, which also calls for more frequent watering.
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What's the difference between watering my Coastal rosemary indoors vs outdoors?
In some cases, your Coastal rosemary may not need any supplemental watering when it grows outside and will survive on rainwater alone. However, if you live in an area of little to no rain, you should water this plant about every two weeks. If you belong to the group of people who live out of this plant's natural hardiness zone, you should grow it indoors. In an indoor setting, you should monitor your plant's soil as it can dry out more quickly when it is in a container or when it is exposed to HVAC units such as air conditioners. Those drying factors will lead you to water this plant a bit more often than if you grew it outdoors.
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Key Facts About Coastal rosemary

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Attributes of Coastal rosemary

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Shrub
Planting Time
Spring, Early summer
Bloom Time
Late spring, Summer, Fall
Harvest Time
Spring, Fall
Plant Height
2 m
Spread
1.8 m to 3.5 m
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
2 cm
Flower Color
White
Blue
Stem Color
Green
White
Blue
Dormancy
Non-dormant
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃

Name story

Australian rosemary||Coastal rosemary||Coastal westringia
Coastal rosemary got its common name from the similarity to the rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus). Not only Westringia fruticosa forms a bush similar to rosemary but the white flowers also resemble rosemary flowers and the leaves are thin and long. However, although similar in appearance, coastal rosemary doesn't have a specific aroma as rosemary does.

Symbolism

remembrance, friendship, love

Usages

Garden Use
Coastal rosemary bushes are generally planted for their profusion of showy flowers, their attractiveness to bees and other pollinators, and their spicy scent. They can be used as hedging, in rock gardens, or as specimen plants.

Trivia and Interesting Facts

Just like rosemary, coastal rosemary is adapted to dry conditions and therefore is prized as a tough, drought-tolerant garden plant. With numerous selected cultivars, Westringia fruticosais mostly used for garden hedges or as a rock garden plant.

Scientific Classification of Coastal rosemary

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Coastal rosemary

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Common issues for Coastal rosemary based on 10 million real cases
Flower withering
Flower withering Flower withering
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Petal blight
Petal blight Petal blight
Petal blight
Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: Like other fungal diseases, the progression of petal blight is extremely difficult to stop and impossible to reverse once it infects a plant. The best course of action is to remove all damaged flowers immediately and dispose of them entirely. Do not put them in the compost pile, where spores could grow and spread.
Mealybugs
Mealybugs Mealybugs
Mealybugs
Mealybugs look like powdery white bumps about 1 to 2 mm across. They suck at the plant's sap.
Solutions: Mealybugs are not difficult to control once they are seen. If the gardener is playing close attention they can be dealt with before becoming established. Dip a cotton swab in alcohol and use it to apply alcohol to individual mealybugs. Avoid getting too much alcohol on plants as it will damage them. Rub off mealybugs using a washcloth or your fingers. Use a hose to spray these pests off of your plants. Close examination of the plant on a regular basis is the best weapon against infestation. For severe cases: - Spray entire plant with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Avoid spraying on sunny days and make sure to make contact with the mealybugs. Introduce or promote beneficial insects to the garden that eat mealybugs. Some beneficial insects include parasitic wasps, lady beetles, lacewings, and minute pirate bugs, but the most effective predator is the mealybug destroyer. For a chemical solution, spray a product that contains dinotefuran. Remove and discard heavily-infected plants.
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Flower withering
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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Petal blight
plant poor
Petal blight
Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Overview
Petal blight, sometimes called flower blight, is a fungal disease that only affects the blooms of some ornamental flowering plants. As the infection progresses, it destroys the flower, yet it never damages the vegetative or green parts of the plant.
When flowers are infected, the symptoms look similar to Botrytis blight, but Botrytis also infects dead or dormant vegetative tissue.
The disease was first discovered in Japanese plants in 1919 and in the US in the late 1930s. Presently it is also found in New Zealand, Australia, and parts of Europe. Unfortunately, no plants have high resistance to petal blight, but specific cultivars are more susceptible than others, particularly species with double blooms.
Petal blight infection rates are high when temperatures are mild to warm (optimum temperatures are 15 to 21 ℃) and the weather is misty or rainy.
Overall, petal blight is an aesthetic problem that ruins blossoms. The disease is not harmful to the long-term health of the plant.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The severity of the symptoms varies, depending upon the species of plant infected. Signs of petal blight are commonly seen on the blooms just after they open.
  • Pallid spots on colored petals.
  • Brown spots on white petals.
  • Browning around the petal edges.
  • Small spots look water-soaked.
  • Spots rapidly enlarge and merge.
  • Flowers become limp.
  • The entire flower turns light brown, but does not crumble.
  • Flowers become slimy at first and then take on a leathery texture.
  • A ring of white or gray mycelium can be seen at the base of the petals.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Petal blight is caused by several different fungi, with each type infecting specific plants. Ovulinia azalea infects azaleas species and cultivars, and rhododendrons. Ciborinia camelliae infects camellia cultivars.
Shortly after blooming, the fungus infects the base of the flowers by the calyx. The fungus produces cell wall-degrading enzymes that destroy flowers within a couple of days. When the flowers fall to the ground, the fungus' hard fruiting bodies fall to the soil as well, overwintering until the following spring.
When temperatures hit the optimum range the following season, spores are transmitted by insects or can spread on wind currents up to about 12 miles. Once in the soil, the pathogen can be active for three to five years.
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Mealybugs
plant poor
Mealybugs
Mealybugs look like powdery white bumps about 1 to 2 mm across. They suck at the plant's sap.
Overview
Overview
Mealybugs are sap-sucking insects of the Pseudococcidae family. They produce a white waxy secretion that makes them look like a dusting of flour. They thrive in warm moist conditions and so are often found on houseplants or in greenhouses, where they tend to hide in crevices such as leaf nodules and at the base of stems. Once in position they don't move and instead focus on sucking sap from the host plant.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
These creatures are quite easy to identify but because they hide in crevices, the gardener will need to be looking for them.
Small white woolly-looking dots will be seen in leaf axis and beneath leaves. Initially it may appear as though the plant has gathered patches of a light flour-like dust or bits of cotton fluff.
Initial infestations tend to be quite minor but left unaddressed, these creatures breed rapidly and can threaten the health of the plant. Severely infested plants will exhibit yellowing leaves that lack normal texture and become soft.
Solutions
Solutions
Mealybugs are not difficult to control once they are seen. If the gardener is playing close attention they can be dealt with before becoming established.
  • Dip a cotton swab in alcohol and use it to apply alcohol to individual mealybugs. Avoid getting too much alcohol on plants as it will damage them.
  • Rub off mealybugs using a washcloth or your fingers.
  • Use a hose to spray these pests off of your plants.
  • Close examination of the plant on a regular basis is the best weapon against infestation.
For severe cases: - Spray entire plant with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Avoid spraying on sunny days and make sure to make contact with the mealybugs.
  • Introduce or promote beneficial insects to the garden that eat mealybugs. Some beneficial insects include parasitic wasps, lady beetles, lacewings, and minute pirate bugs, but the most effective predator is the mealybug destroyer.
  • For a chemical solution, spray a product that contains dinotefuran.
  • Remove and discard heavily-infected plants.
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distribution

Distribution of Coastal rosemary

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Habitat of Coastal rosemary

Coast
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Coastal rosemary

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Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Coastal Rosemary Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
Coastal rosemary flourishes optimally in an environment where the sun's rays are unhindered throughout the day while still accommodating to a setting that receives a lesser amount of the sun's exposure. Sunlight is crucial for its growth, too much, or too little, can lead to unhealthy conditions. Originating from an ecosystem with abundant sun exposure, coastal rosemary's growth stages require similar lighting conditions.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
0 - 43 ℃
Coastal rosemary is native to coastal regions with temperate climates where temperatures generally range from 59 to 100 ℉ (15 to 38 ℃); it prefers a temperature range of 68 to 100 ℉ (20 to 38 ℃). In colder seasons, it may benefit from protection or indoor adjustments to maintain temperatures within its preferred range.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
3-5 feet
The best time to transplant coastal rosemary is during the early to mid-spring season, when the soil begins to warm and new growth emerges. Choose a sunny or partially shaded location with well-draining soil for successful transplantation. Remember to water coastal rosemary adequately after transplanting, ensuring a smooth transition for this beautiful perennial plant.
Transplant Techniques
Pruning
Spring, Summer
With its hardy, shrub-like growth and tolerance to coastal conditions, coastal rosemary benefits from regular pruning to maintain shape and enhance flowering. Key techniques involve shaping, thinning out, and deadheading. Prune in late spring or early summer after the main flowering period to encourage new growth and optimize plant health. Specific to coastal rosemary, pruning can stimulate denser foliage and more prolific blooms, contributing to its vibrant ornamental appeal.
Pruning techniques
Propagation
Spring, Summer
Coastal rosemary propagates ideally during spring and summer using cuttings. This method is moderately easy, and successful propagation is indicated by new growth. Ensuring a well-draining soil mix and consistent moisture helps the cuttings root better.
Propagation Techniques
Feng shui direction
East
The coastal rosemary is somewhat akin to Feng Shui's focus on harmony and balance. This aligns well when facing East, symbolizing growth, new beginnings, and family, owing to coastal rosemary's verdant growth and enduring nature. However, like all elements of Feng Shui, this compatibility is subjective and based on each practitioner's interpretation.
Fengshui Details
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Plants Related to Coastal rosemary

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Cape marguerite
Cape marguerite
Osteospermum ecklonis, commonly known as cape marguerite, is an evergreen, perennial small shrub with typical daisy-shaped white or purple flowers. It is cultivated as an ornamental in containers and borders. Flowers of this lovely plant are often visited by bees and other pollinators.
Beggar's lice
Beggar's lice
Virginia stickseed has tiny white flowers that bloom in mid-summer. The beggar's lice comes from the seeds of this plant, which are burrs and are very sticky. These burrs are very small and are very difficult to remove from clothing and pet fur. This method of seed dispersal is very effective for this plant, and if caught on clothing often times the entire seed stem, or even the whole plant will come out of the ground.
Beach spider lily
Beach spider lily
Beach spider lily (Hymenocallis littoralis) is a bulbous perennial plant native to the south and eastern United States, Mexico, Central America, and South America. Beach spider lily has a distinctive appearance and is often cultivated for ornamental eye-catching displays.
Moreton bay fig
Moreton bay fig
Moreton bay fig (Ficus macrophylla) Is an evergreen tree and one of the largest cultivated fig trees that will grow from 23 to 55 m tall and 21 to 40 m wide. Known to live for more than 150 years, this tree grows an average of 91 cm per year. Blooms in summer, but flowers are inconspicuous. Produces edible figs that turn purple as they ripen in fall. Thrives in full sun and requires ample growing space.
Red maple
Red maple
The red maple is a common North American tree with distinctive red leaves and flower buds. Its sap can be made into maple syrup and the wood is good for furniture. Though non-toxic to humans, the leaves are very toxic to horses. According to the U.S. Forest Service, red maple is the most common tree in eastern North America.
Cotton fruit
Cotton fruit
Cotton fruit is a fast-growing fruit tree. It is commonly cultivated and the popular fruits are widely seasonally available in both local and international markets. There are two varieties that produce either yellow or red fruits. These varieties were once thought to be two distinct species. The fruit has various uses in Asian cuisine, however, care should be taken not to swallow the whole seeds for the risk of intestinal obstruction and perforation.
Cape jasmine
Cape jasmine
Gardenia jasminoides is an evergreen shrub with unique, glossy evergreen leaves and stunning flowers. The sophisticated, matte white flowers are often used in bouquets. The exceptional beauty of this ornamental plant has made it a popular and highly appreciated plant amongst gardeners and horticulturalists.
Golden pothos
Golden pothos
The golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular houseplant that is commonly seen in Australia, Asia, and the West Indies. It goes by many nicknames, including "devil's ivy", because it is so hard to kill and can even grow in low light conditions. Golden pothos has poisonous sap, so it should be kept away from pets and children.
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Related Plants
Coastal rosemary
Coastal rosemary
Coastal rosemary
Coastal rosemary
Coastal rosemary
Coastal rosemary
Coastal rosemary
Westringia fruticosa
Although related to culinary rosemary, coastal rosemary (Westringia fruticosa) is not edible. However, it is a hardy shrub with white hairy flowers that grows in coastal areas and on sand dunes. Coastal rosemary thrives in a variety of soil types and flowers year round.
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring, Early summer
question

Questions About Coastal rosemary

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Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Coastal rosemary?
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What should I do if I water my Coastal rosemary too much or too little?
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How often should I water my Coastal rosemary?
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How much water does my Coastal rosemary need?
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Coastal rosemary enough?
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How can I water my Coastal rosemary at different growth stages?
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Key Facts About Coastal rosemary

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Attributes of Coastal rosemary

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Shrub
Planting Time
Spring, Early summer
Bloom Time
Late spring, Summer, Fall
Harvest Time
Spring, Fall
Plant Height
2 m
Spread
1.8 m to 3.5 m
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
2 cm
Flower Color
White
Blue
Stem Color
Green
White
Blue
Dormancy
Non-dormant
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃
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Name story

Australian rosemary||Coastal rosemary||Coastal westringia
Coastal rosemary got its common name from the similarity to the rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus). Not only Westringia fruticosa forms a bush similar to rosemary but the white flowers also resemble rosemary flowers and the leaves are thin and long. However, although similar in appearance, coastal rosemary doesn't have a specific aroma as rosemary does.

Symbolism

remembrance, friendship, love

Usages

Garden Use
Coastal rosemary bushes are generally planted for their profusion of showy flowers, their attractiveness to bees and other pollinators, and their spicy scent. They can be used as hedging, in rock gardens, or as specimen plants.

Trivia and Interesting Facts

Just like rosemary, coastal rosemary is adapted to dry conditions and therefore is prized as a tough, drought-tolerant garden plant. With numerous selected cultivars, Westringia fruticosais mostly used for garden hedges or as a rock garden plant.

Scientific Classification of Coastal rosemary

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Coastal rosemary

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Common issues for Coastal rosemary based on 10 million real cases
Flower withering
Flower withering Flower withering Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Learn More About the Flower withering more
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More About the Aged yellow and dry more
Petal blight
Petal blight Petal blight Petal blight
Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: Like other fungal diseases, the progression of petal blight is extremely difficult to stop and impossible to reverse once it infects a plant. The best course of action is to remove all damaged flowers immediately and dispose of them entirely. Do not put them in the compost pile, where spores could grow and spread.
Learn More About the Petal blight more
Mealybugs
Mealybugs Mealybugs Mealybugs
Mealybugs look like powdery white bumps about 1 to 2 mm across. They suck at the plant's sap.
Solutions: Mealybugs are not difficult to control once they are seen. If the gardener is playing close attention they can be dealt with before becoming established. Dip a cotton swab in alcohol and use it to apply alcohol to individual mealybugs. Avoid getting too much alcohol on plants as it will damage them. Rub off mealybugs using a washcloth or your fingers. Use a hose to spray these pests off of your plants. Close examination of the plant on a regular basis is the best weapon against infestation. For severe cases: - Spray entire plant with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Avoid spraying on sunny days and make sure to make contact with the mealybugs. Introduce or promote beneficial insects to the garden that eat mealybugs. Some beneficial insects include parasitic wasps, lady beetles, lacewings, and minute pirate bugs, but the most effective predator is the mealybug destroyer. For a chemical solution, spray a product that contains dinotefuran. Remove and discard heavily-infected plants.
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Flower withering
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
  • Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
  • Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
  • Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
  • Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
  • Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
  • Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Aged yellow and dry
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Petal blight
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Petal blight
Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Overview
Petal blight, sometimes called flower blight, is a fungal disease that only affects the blooms of some ornamental flowering plants. As the infection progresses, it destroys the flower, yet it never damages the vegetative or green parts of the plant.
When flowers are infected, the symptoms look similar to Botrytis blight, but Botrytis also infects dead or dormant vegetative tissue.
The disease was first discovered in Japanese plants in 1919 and in the US in the late 1930s. Presently it is also found in New Zealand, Australia, and parts of Europe. Unfortunately, no plants have high resistance to petal blight, but specific cultivars are more susceptible than others, particularly species with double blooms.
Petal blight infection rates are high when temperatures are mild to warm (optimum temperatures are 15 to 21 ℃) and the weather is misty or rainy.
Overall, petal blight is an aesthetic problem that ruins blossoms. The disease is not harmful to the long-term health of the plant.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The severity of the symptoms varies, depending upon the species of plant infected. Signs of petal blight are commonly seen on the blooms just after they open.
  • Pallid spots on colored petals.
  • Brown spots on white petals.
  • Browning around the petal edges.
  • Small spots look water-soaked.
  • Spots rapidly enlarge and merge.
  • Flowers become limp.
  • The entire flower turns light brown, but does not crumble.
  • Flowers become slimy at first and then take on a leathery texture.
  • A ring of white or gray mycelium can be seen at the base of the petals.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Petal blight is caused by several different fungi, with each type infecting specific plants. Ovulinia azalea infects azaleas species and cultivars, and rhododendrons. Ciborinia camelliae infects camellia cultivars.
Shortly after blooming, the fungus infects the base of the flowers by the calyx. The fungus produces cell wall-degrading enzymes that destroy flowers within a couple of days. When the flowers fall to the ground, the fungus' hard fruiting bodies fall to the soil as well, overwintering until the following spring.
When temperatures hit the optimum range the following season, spores are transmitted by insects or can spread on wind currents up to about 12 miles. Once in the soil, the pathogen can be active for three to five years.
Solutions
Solutions
Like other fungal diseases, the progression of petal blight is extremely difficult to stop and impossible to reverse once it infects a plant. The best course of action is to remove all damaged flowers immediately and dispose of them entirely. Do not put them in the compost pile, where spores could grow and spread.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Apply a preventative dose of fungicide as soon as blooms start to show color on the plant. The preventative can be applied as a soil drench or directly to the flowers on the plant.
  • Avoid overhead watering during blooming.
  • Remove any leaf litter and dead flowers at the end of the season.
  • Cover the ground under infected plants with 4” of fresh organic mulch before winter, taking care not to disturb the infected soil.
  • Buy bare-root specimens when available.
  • When potted plants are purchased, remove the top layer of potting soil and replace it with fresh mulch.
  • Plant cultivars that bloom early in the season before the temperatures get high enough for petal blight pathogens to be spreading.
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Mealybugs
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Mealybugs
Mealybugs look like powdery white bumps about 1 to 2 mm across. They suck at the plant's sap.
Overview
Overview
Mealybugs are sap-sucking insects of the Pseudococcidae family. They produce a white waxy secretion that makes them look like a dusting of flour. They thrive in warm moist conditions and so are often found on houseplants or in greenhouses, where they tend to hide in crevices such as leaf nodules and at the base of stems. Once in position they don't move and instead focus on sucking sap from the host plant.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
These creatures are quite easy to identify but because they hide in crevices, the gardener will need to be looking for them.
Small white woolly-looking dots will be seen in leaf axis and beneath leaves. Initially it may appear as though the plant has gathered patches of a light flour-like dust or bits of cotton fluff.
Initial infestations tend to be quite minor but left unaddressed, these creatures breed rapidly and can threaten the health of the plant. Severely infested plants will exhibit yellowing leaves that lack normal texture and become soft.
Solutions
Solutions
Mealybugs are not difficult to control once they are seen. If the gardener is playing close attention they can be dealt with before becoming established.
  • Dip a cotton swab in alcohol and use it to apply alcohol to individual mealybugs. Avoid getting too much alcohol on plants as it will damage them.
  • Rub off mealybugs using a washcloth or your fingers.
  • Use a hose to spray these pests off of your plants.
  • Close examination of the plant on a regular basis is the best weapon against infestation.
For severe cases: - Spray entire plant with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Avoid spraying on sunny days and make sure to make contact with the mealybugs.
  • Introduce or promote beneficial insects to the garden that eat mealybugs. Some beneficial insects include parasitic wasps, lady beetles, lacewings, and minute pirate bugs, but the most effective predator is the mealybug destroyer.
  • For a chemical solution, spray a product that contains dinotefuran.
  • Remove and discard heavily-infected plants.
Prevention
Prevention
Recommended steps for prevention, from most to least common, are as follows:
  1. Examine plants carefully before purchasing. Mealybugs are most commonly brought in on contaminated plants.
  2. Avoid overfeeding plants with nitrogen, as it makes them too tender and easy for the mealybugs to insert their sucking mouth parts into.
  3. Regularly check plants, pots, and tools for them. They are very easy to spot once the gardener knows what to look for and where to look.
  4. Keep plants in good health by properly fertilizing and irrigating.
  5. Avoid using insecticides that can kill beneficial insects. Neem tree oil and vegetable soaps are highly effective.
  6. Regular spraying or wiping with an insecticidal soap is a good deterrent and affords the gardener an opportunity to examine for any infestations.
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distribution

Distribution of Coastal rosemary

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Habitat of Coastal rosemary

Coast
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Coastal rosemary

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Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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Plants Related to Coastal rosemary

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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Coastal rosemary flourishes optimally in an environment where the sun's rays are unhindered throughout the day while still accommodating to a setting that receives a lesser amount of the sun's exposure. Sunlight is crucial for its growth, too much, or too little, can lead to unhealthy conditions. Originating from an ecosystem with abundant sun exposure, coastal rosemary's growth stages require similar lighting conditions.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Coastal rosemary thrives in full sunlight but can tolerate partial shade. However, when cultivated indoors during winter, it's often placed in rooms with insufficient lighting, leading to easily noticeable symptoms of light deficiency.
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Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your coastal rosemary may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Impact on flowering and fruiting
Your plant may not show obvious abnormalities due to insufficient sunlight, but it can have adverse effects on future flowering and fruiting.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Coastal rosemary thrives in full sun exposure but can also tolerate partial shade. They have a remarkable resilience to intense sunlight, and symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Coastal rosemary is native to coastal regions with temperate climates where temperatures generally range from 59 to 100 ℉ (15 to 38 ℃); it prefers a temperature range of 68 to 100 ℉ (20 to 38 ℃). In colder seasons, it may benefit from protection or indoor adjustments to maintain temperatures within its preferred range.
Regional wintering strategies
Coastal rosemary is extremely heat-loving, and any cold temperatures can cause harm to it. In the autumn, it is recommended to bring outdoor-grown Coastal rosemary indoors and place it near a bright window, but it should be kept at a certain distance from heaters. Maintaining temperatures above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} during winter is beneficial for plant growth. Any temperatures approaching {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min} are detrimental to the plant.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in Coastal rosemary
Coastal rosemary prefers warm temperatures and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves may lighten in color. After frost damage, the color gradually turns brown or black, and symptoms such as wilting and drooping may occur.
Solutions
Trim off the frost-damaged parts. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment for cold protection. Choose a spot near a south-facing window to place the plant, ensuring ample sunlight. Additionally, avoid placing the plant near heaters or air conditioning vents to prevent excessive dryness in the air.
Symptoms of High Temperature in Coastal rosemary
During summer, Coastal rosemary should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the color of the leaves becomes lighter, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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