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Yavi cactus
Yavi cactus
Yavi cactus
Yavia cryptocarpa
Hardiness Zones
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9 to 11
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care guide

Care Guide for Yavi cactus

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Watering Care
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Yavi cactus
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Questions About Yavi cactus

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What should I do if I water my Yavi cactus too much or too little?
Underwatered Yavi cactus Yavi cactus and other succulents can endure long periods without water, so it’s unusual to find one of these suffering from underwatering. But, if you somehow forgot about your plant and neglected to water it for a month or more, you’ll probably find your Yavi cactus looking thirsty or with some damage from lack of watering. It is very easy to identify an underwatered Yavi cactus. Plant look lacklustre and wrinkled. Some may have dried up completely, turned brown and crispy, or dropped off the plant. And of course, the soil will be completely dried out. If your Yavi cactus is thirsty and underwatered, give it plenty of water as soon as possible. Submerging the pot entirely in water for about 5-10 minutes is a good way to make sure the soil and plant are rehydrated properly. When you feel a sense of moisture on the surface of the soil with your finger, it means the watering is done properly. Overwatered Yavi cactus Overwatering is dangerous to Yavi cactus and can be fatal to your plant if you don’t remedy the situation. Too much moisture over time leads to root rot, which prevents the roots from being able to absorb nutrients and water from the soil. Root rot occurs when wet conditions allow fungi and bacteria to flourish in the soil and feed on roots. When you find that it's overwatered, you'd better change the growing conditions, place it somewhere with more air ventilation and adjust water frequency, for example. The symptoms of overwatering are yellow, swollen, and translucent organs that may even burst open from being over-full with water. If the problem continues without being treated, plant might turn brown or black, and fall off the plant at the slightest touch. Be sure to check the soil to determine if overwatering is the culprit, as some other issues can cause similar symptoms. It’s a bit difficult (but not impossible) to save an overwatered plant. The key is catching it early before a lot of damage has occurred. If the roots become rotten, it is likely to kill the entire plant. If you suspect you have overwatered your Yavi cactus, the first step is to remove it from its pot and check the roots and soil. After removing the plant from its pot, gently remove wet soil from around the roots and then rinse them clean in room-temperature water. This helps with removing fungus that might be lurking in the soil and allows you to get a better sense of how healthy the roots are. If your plant has already developed root rot, you will see roots that are dark brown or black, soft, mushy, or slimy. If the majority of the roots are already affected by root rot, it may not be possible to save the plant. In this case, it is best to remove any healthy stem and try to use these to propagate a new Yavi cactus. If, on the other hand, only a portion of the roots have succumbed to rot and other healthy roots still remain, there is a chance it can be saved. Use a sterilized cutting tool to remove any unhealthy-looking roots. Once you're left with only the firm, pale roots, it’s a good idea to dip them in a fungicide to kill off any remaining spores. After that you can repot your Yavi cactus in fresh, free-draining potting soil. While this does not always work to save a succulent with root rot, in most cases this plant will be able to make a full recovery and will put out new growth starting in the next growing season.
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How often should I water my Yavi cactus?
There’s not a hard-and-fast rule for how often to water Yavi cactus. The best way to determine this is to check the soil and only water when it’s bone dry. You can either stick your finger in the pot or use a moisture meter to check the soil below the surface. When you plant it in a deep pot, you can do this with a stick or chopstick. If it feels even a little bit moist, wait a few days and check it again. Most people will need to water Yavi cactus about every two weeks in summer and once a month in winter, but there are several factors that can change the frequency. The section below lists some considerations that can help you to determine how often to water.
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What should I consider when watering my Yavi cactus?
There are several environmental conditions that will affect how your Yavi cactus needs to be watered, including the container size, soil type, temperature, and humidity. First off, the container and soil you use will determine how often to water and how much water to use each time. Be sure you use a container with plenty of drainage holes in the bottom so extra water can escape the pot. A small container has less room for soil, meaning it won’t hold as much moisture, while a larger pot will stay wet longer and need to be watered less often. It’s important not to keep your Yavi cactus in an oversized pot as this can easily lead to overwatering. When repotting, move to just one size larger than the current container. A shallow container works better than a deep one, since Yavi cactus has shallow root systems. Yavi cactus will need to be watered less often in winter and more often in the active growing season in spring and autumn. During the winter, growth slows down considerably and the plant isn’t using much energy or water. There is less water lost to evaporation in cooler winter air, meaning that soil stays wet for much longer than it would in the summer. This also applies to the general climate around your home. If you live in a humid location with a lot of rain, you will need to water less often than if you live in a dry, arid climate. Remember that conditions at the same geographic location can vary significantly with the season and the use of indoor heating and air conditioning. Outdoor Planting If Yavi cactus is planted in the ground, after establishing a root system, it shouldn’t need supplemental water beyond what it receives through precipitation and dew. But if there is a long dry period, you may want to water occasionally. In other areas where Yavi cactus can only be grown in a container, this plant can be moved outside in the spring and summer when the temperature is proper and then brought back inside when temperatures start to drop. A potted Yavi cactus kept outside usually needs more water than the same plant kept indoors, because there is a lot more sun exposure even on a shaded porch.
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How to water Yavi cactus?
The best way to water Yavi cactus is to soak it thoroughly and then allow it to dry out before it gets watered again. Since this plant is somewhat drought tolerant, you can let it get quite dry before watering again. It is always better to give this type of plant too little water over too much. When you water, make sure the soil gets thoroughly soaked throughout the whole pot. Don’t pour the water in just one spot, but rather try to go around the whole rim of the planter to be sure that it has a chance to get wet on all sides of the plant. The correct amount of water will depend on the size of your container and how much water your soil absorbs. Give your Yavi cactus enough water that it drains out from the drainage holes and then (ideally) leave the drained water in the saucer for about 20-30 minutes to absorb into dry pockets of soil. After that, discard any excess water that’s still in the saucer to avoid the soil getting waterlogged. Bottom-watering is also an excellent method for Yavi cactus, as you can be sure that the soil gets thoroughly moistened. This process involves placing the pot into a saucer of water and allowing the soil to absorb moisture through the drainage holes. You will know that the soil has absorbed enough water when the top layer is moist. This takes a bit more time than top-watering, but is almost foolproof in getting an even distribution of water throughout the pot. The original habitat of Yavi cactus is relatively dry with little rain, but when it rains, the soil will be thoroughly moistened. So you can mimic this situation by bottom-watering your plant when the soil is totally dry. Deep soil bathing is better than frequent light watering for Yavi cactus.
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Key Facts About Yavi cactus

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Attributes of Yavi cactus

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Succulent
Bloom Time
Late spring
Plant Height
10 cm
Spread
2.5 cm
Flower Size
2 cm
Flower Color
Pink
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃

Scientific Classification of Yavi cactus

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Common Pests & Diseases About Yavi cactus

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Common issues for Yavi cactus based on 10 million real cases
Thrips
Thrips Thrips
Thrips
Thrips are 1 to 2 mm bugs with slender black or translucent-yellow bodies. They move quickly and feed on the plant's sap.
Solutions: Thrips can be controlled in several ways. Spray plants with Pyrethrin, which is an organic pesticide derived from marigolds (follow label instructions) or Permethrin, the synthetic version of Pyrethrin. Introduce beneficial insects to the garden that eat thrips, such as minute pirate bugs and green lacewings. Remove heavily infested plants from the area and discard. Address viral diseases that may have been transmitted by the pests. For less serious cases -use a hose to spray the thrips off of the plants.
Root rot
Root rot Root rot
Root rot
Soft root rot can be caused by over-watering or pathogenic infection.
Solutions: These are the solutions for root rot: Stop applying water and allow the plant to dry out. In the case of potted plants, the gardener can remove plant from its container and lay it on a sheet of paper in a shady spot to speed the drying process. Cut away black mushy root material until healthy white material is reached. Sprinkle root ball with anti-fungal powder. Repot using sterilized potting mixture but don't water for first couple of days. Ensure that the new pot offers adequate drainage. Terracotta pots can absorb moisture into their walls. Adopt an appropriate watering regime. For most potted plants, refrain from watering until the first inch or two of the soil is dry to the touch. Even plants that prefer to be kept "evenly moist" should never be allowed to sit in soggy soil. Outdoor plants should not be receiving so much water that it pools at the surface of the soil.
Leaf mites
Leaf mites Leaf mites
Leaf mites
Leaf mites are very small - rarely larger than 4 mm - and are hard to spot. They are usually yellow or red and feed on the plant's sap.
Solutions: Steps to take to remove leaf mites from plants: Physically remove mites from plants Rinse the leaves of houseplants - spray with a hose or wipe with a moist, soapy cloth Apply neem oil or horticultural oil spray - both of these are easy to use and work quickly on mites indoors and in the garden Use a miticide - a broad spray of miticide can eliminate large populations of leaf mites in the garden (however, this risks also risk killing beneficial mites that eat harmful pests) Use natural enemies like lady beetles and predatory mites to control populations Long-lasting pesticides like permethrin and bifenthrin work, but can deter beneficial insects from visiting
Soil mold
Soil mold Soil mold
Soil mold
Moist environments may encourage the growth of mushrooms or other fungi at the soil's surface that do not affect the health of the plant.
Solutions: Measures to take to remove soil mold: Physically remove mold/mushrooms - remove and dispose of mushrooms. To remove mold, scrape 1/8” of soil from the surface. Add a layer of sand or gravel - adding 1/4” of sand or gravel on top of the soil surface will discourage new fungal growth Sprinkle an antifungal treatment around the plants - this doesn't have to be a commercial fungicide, as many growers swear by all-natural remedies like cinnamon and baking soda Some types of mold contain toxins that can be harmful to humans or irritate those with allergies or asthma. Wear a dust mask while performing these tasks.
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Thrips
plant poor
Thrips
Thrips are 1 to 2 mm bugs with slender black or translucent-yellow bodies. They move quickly and feed on the plant's sap.
Overview
Overview
Thrips are tiny, flying, sap-sucking insects that attack the tender parts of plants, causing scarring and weakening of the plant and sometimes, if the infestation is severe enough, plant death. They have undersized double wings with a fringe on them, resembling tiny, misshapen damselflies. Thrips have a taste for many houseplants and crops, making them a serious nuisance.
They appear in early spring after the last frost has occurred. If not controlled in early spring, they will persist for most of the season. They are often attracted to weakened plants, such as those struck by drought/underwatering or malnutrition. Excessive use of nitrogen fertilizer also seems to attract them to a plant. Thrips can spread various viruses between plants, leading to more serious damage.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Thrips are so small that they may not be noticed (1 to 2 mm long), but infested plants present several key signs. Tiny pale spots appear on leaves, which may start to deform, show white or silver discoloration, or become papery in texture.
Flower petals may be damaged as well, and might display color break, which is dark or pale discoloring of petal tissue damaged before the buds had a chance to open. Fruits may show scabby or silvery scarring. Tiny black spots of the insects' excrement may be visible.
As the infestation progresses, infested terminals roll and become discolored, and leaves may drop prematurely. The plant's growth may be stunted. Secondary viral and bacterial infections, which thrips can transmit, may become evident.
The good news? Thrips rarely kill or seriously weaken shrubs and trees. Smaller plants, such as vegetable crops and herbaceous ornamentals, tend to be more severely affected.
Solutions
Solutions
Thrips can be controlled in several ways.
  • Spray plants with Pyrethrin, which is an organic pesticide derived from marigolds (follow label instructions) or Permethrin, the synthetic version of Pyrethrin.
  • Introduce beneficial insects to the garden that eat thrips, such as minute pirate bugs and green lacewings.
  • Remove heavily infested plants from the area and discard.
  • Address viral diseases that may have been transmitted by the pests.
  • For less serious cases -use a hose to spray the thrips off of the plants.
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Root rot
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Root rot
Soft root rot can be caused by over-watering or pathogenic infection.
Overview
Overview
Root rot is a common and devastating problem that can infect trees, shrubs and other plants, often with fatal results. It is caused by excessive moisture in the soil, which activates a fungus that can lie dormant in soil and only emerge when conditions are ideal (soggy and wet). Because primary symptoms are hidden beneath the soil, the gardener may not become aware of the problem until upper sections of the plant start to show signs of distress.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Early symptoms may occur below ground and not be obvious until they advance into more visible plant material. Above ground the gardener may be alerted by:
  1. Wilting and yellowing of the leaves.
  2. Softening and discoloration of the stems.
At this stage it is worth making a closer examination of what is going on below the soil.
  1. Soil will feel noticeably damp and boggy.
  2. There will often be a swampy smell emanating from the soil.
  3. Examination of the roots will reveal black or dark brown mushy material.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Root rot is caused by plant pathogens in the soil which are activated by overly-wet conditions. They invade the root material, which begins to die and rot. With roots no longer functioning effectively, there is a shortage of oxygen and nutrients being carried to the upper sections of the plant. These will show the signs of distress that may be what first alerts the gardener to this issue.
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Leaf mites
plant poor
Leaf mites
Leaf mites are very small - rarely larger than 4 mm - and are hard to spot. They are usually yellow or red and feed on the plant's sap.
Overview
Overview
Leaf mites are frustrating pests that can be found on both indoor- and outdoor-grown plants. They affect all kinds of plants, from shrubs to vegetable crops and everything in between. These tiny pests feed on sap through leaves or needles, causing symptoms that are easy to confuse with drought stress. Severely infested plants can die.
These pests are closely related to spiders but don’t offer all the pest-controlling benefits of their close arachnid cousins. They are extremely small, generally about 0.5 mm in length and yellow to orange in color. When infestations are left unchecked, they can severely stunt the growth of plants or even kill them completely.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Leaf mites use piercing and sucking mouthparts to feed on the sap that is present on the underside of needles and leaves. This can cause small white or yellow spots to develop on the plant tissue, until the entire leaf starts to appear bleached or bronzed. This feeding activity can lead new flowers and leaves to develop in stunted or distorted shapes.
While individual mites may be too small to notice easily, they create a webbing that may be the most apparent and characteristic sign of infestation with leaf mites. This webbing affixes the eggs of the next generation to the leaf.
Eggs can survive through winter conditions, although they do not hatch until the weather is hot and dry. Warmer temperatures increase their rate of development, and in summer weather or warm indoor temperatures colonies of leaf mites can reproduce every 1 to 2 weeks.
Leaves may fall from severely infested plants, and without treatment they can become stunted or even die.
Solutions
Solutions
Steps to take to remove leaf mites from plants:
  • Physically remove mites from plants
  • Rinse the leaves of houseplants - spray with a hose or wipe with a moist, soapy cloth
  • Apply neem oil or horticultural oil spray - both of these are easy to use and work quickly on mites indoors and in the garden
  • Use a miticide - a broad spray of miticide can eliminate large populations of leaf mites in the garden (however, this risks also risk killing beneficial mites that eat harmful pests)
  • Use natural enemies like lady beetles and predatory mites to control populations
  • Long-lasting pesticides like permethrin and bifenthrin work, but can deter beneficial insects from visiting
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Soil mold
plant poor
Soil mold
Moist environments may encourage the growth of mushrooms or other fungi at the soil's surface that do not affect the health of the plant.
Overview
Overview
If there is soil mold around the plants, this isn't necessarily a reason to panic. Mold can occur for several reasons. Most of the time, it's harmless. The microorganisms that exist in mold are, in fact, necessary for healthy plant life. That said, it can be unsightly and in some cases, harmful to certain plants. It's important to understand why mold might be forming. It is only after the potential causes have been identified that steps can be taken to stop mold from spreading or appearing in the future.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The most obvious sign of soil mold is, of course, mold observed on the surface of the soil. This can be fuzzy and white, yellow, or gray in color. Other symptoms may include:
  • Mushrooms
  • Wilted plants
  • Plants are stunted in growth
  • Soil has an odd "off" smell
  • Premature leaf drop or flower/blossom/fruit rot
  • Excess water is leaking from drainage holes
While soil mold doesn't always harm the growth of a plant, it can indicate the presence of a larger problem that needs to be addressed (and these problems can often harm plants).
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are several causes for soil mold. Understanding why mold is growing should be the first step in deciding on the best course of action.
Some potential causes include:
  • Overwatering - fungi consume excess water, so the presence of mold indicates that there is water that the plants aren't readily using
  • Poor drainage - this can be caused by dense, compacted soil, a lack of drainage holes, or an inadequate pot size
  • Poor air circulation - this is common in indoor-grown plants, especially in the winter when windows are closed
  • Contaminated soil - while all soil contains microorganisms, soil can contain fungal spores that lead to mold growth
  • Decomposing leaves on the soil surface feed the mold
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Distribution of Yavi cactus

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Habitat of Yavi cactus

Schistose rocks on slopes in a desert
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Yavi cactus

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Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Yavi Cactus Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
Yavi cactus thrives well under the full exposure to sun. However, intense midday sun can harm it, causing scorching. This species is adapted to its stark native landscape where the level of sun exposure is typically high. Over-shading can inhibit growth and lead to a lack of blooming.
Best Sunlight Practices
Transplant
1-2 feet
Transplanting yavi cactus flourishes best during 'late summer to early autumn', nature's prime time for plant resettlement. Choose locations with good drainage and minimal frost exposure. Transplant mindfully, prioritizing intact roots, and don't forget occasional, deep watering post-transplant.
Transplant Techniques
Temperature
0 - 43 ℃
Yavi cactus is native to an environment that experiences temperatures around 68 to 100 °F (20 to 38 °C). These temperate conditions are optimal for it, so try to replicate this environment. Adjustments might be needed for seasonal fluctuations.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Feng shui direction
Southwest
The yavi cactus cactus gleams in apparent harmony with Southwest-facing rooms. Reasonably, the plant's affinity for arid conditions correlates with the Earth element, which encompasses the Southwest direction. While this alignment seems promising, exposure to Feng Shui is an empirical, tailored progression, worth experimenting with.
Fengshui Details
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Plants Related to Yavi cactus

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Cape jasmine
Cape jasmine
Gardenia jasminoides is an evergreen shrub with unique, glossy evergreen leaves and stunning flowers. The sophisticated, matte white flowers are often used in bouquets. The exceptional beauty of this ornamental plant has made it a popular and highly appreciated plant amongst gardeners and horticulturalists.
Golden pothos
Golden pothos
The golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular houseplant that is commonly seen in Australia, Asia, and the West Indies. It goes by many nicknames, including "devil's ivy", because it is so hard to kill and can even grow in low light conditions. Golden pothos has poisonous sap, so it should be kept away from pets and children.
Pepper
Pepper
The pepper are commonly used for cooking in places such as the Southern U.S. and Central America. Most are moderately spicy, though because there are so many variants, the spice level can vary dramatically. Cayenne powder is also a popular seasoning product made from pepper plants.
Swiss cheese plant
Swiss cheese plant
The swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa) produces bright, glossy leaves and makes a popular houseplant. It is originally native to tropical forest regions in Central America. The nickname swiss cheese plant refers to the small holes that develop in the plant's leaves. The long fruits resemble corncobs and smell sweet and fragrant when ripe.
Snake plant
Snake plant
Snake plant can be considered a houseplant and an architectural display due to its sword-like leaves with bold striping patterns, which are distinctive and eye-catching. However, use caution with this plant because it is poisonous when ingested and can cause nausea, vomiting, and even swelling of the throat and tongue.
Bigleaf hydrangea
Bigleaf hydrangea
The bigleaf hydrangea is a deciduous shrub native to Japan, and is known for its lush, oval, colorful inflorescence. The two types of Hydrangea macrophylla are mopheads - with large, ball-shaped, sterile flower clusters, and lace capes - with small round fertile flowers in the center, and sterile flowers on the outer side of each inflorescence. Depending on soil pH, blooms can change color from pink to blue.
Corn plant
Corn plant
Corn plant (Dracaena fragrans) is an evergreen, slow-growing perennial shrub native to tropical Africa. Also, it is a classic houseplant, grown in Europe since the 1800s. Its glossy green foliage that resembles corn leaves grow on top of a thick cane, which is why the plant is sometimes called “false palm tree.”
Peace lily
Peace lily
The peace lily gets its scientific name Spathiphyllum wallisii from a combination of the two Greek words ‘spath’ and ‘phyl’, which means spoon and leaves, respectively. The large graceful white spathe of the peace lily resembles a white flag, which is an international symbol of truce or peace.
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Yavi cactus
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Yavia cryptocarpa
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Care Guide for Yavi cactus

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Questions About Yavi cactus

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Watering Watering Watering
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
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Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What should I do if I water my Yavi cactus too much or too little?
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How often should I water my Yavi cactus?
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What should I consider when watering my Yavi cactus?
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How to water Yavi cactus?
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Key Facts About Yavi cactus

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Attributes of Yavi cactus

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Succulent
Bloom Time
Late spring
Plant Height
10 cm
Spread
2.5 cm
Flower Size
2 cm
Flower Color
Pink
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃
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Scientific Classification of Yavi cactus

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Common Pests & Diseases About Yavi cactus

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Common issues for Yavi cactus based on 10 million real cases
Thrips
Thrips Thrips Thrips
Thrips are 1 to 2 mm bugs with slender black or translucent-yellow bodies. They move quickly and feed on the plant's sap.
Solutions: Thrips can be controlled in several ways. Spray plants with Pyrethrin, which is an organic pesticide derived from marigolds (follow label instructions) or Permethrin, the synthetic version of Pyrethrin. Introduce beneficial insects to the garden that eat thrips, such as minute pirate bugs and green lacewings. Remove heavily infested plants from the area and discard. Address viral diseases that may have been transmitted by the pests. For less serious cases -use a hose to spray the thrips off of the plants.
Learn More About the Thrips more
Root rot
Root rot Root rot Root rot
Soft root rot can be caused by over-watering or pathogenic infection.
Solutions: These are the solutions for root rot: Stop applying water and allow the plant to dry out. In the case of potted plants, the gardener can remove plant from its container and lay it on a sheet of paper in a shady spot to speed the drying process. Cut away black mushy root material until healthy white material is reached. Sprinkle root ball with anti-fungal powder. Repot using sterilized potting mixture but don't water for first couple of days. Ensure that the new pot offers adequate drainage. Terracotta pots can absorb moisture into their walls. Adopt an appropriate watering regime. For most potted plants, refrain from watering until the first inch or two of the soil is dry to the touch. Even plants that prefer to be kept "evenly moist" should never be allowed to sit in soggy soil. Outdoor plants should not be receiving so much water that it pools at the surface of the soil.
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Leaf mites
Leaf mites Leaf mites Leaf mites
Leaf mites are very small - rarely larger than 4 mm - and are hard to spot. They are usually yellow or red and feed on the plant's sap.
Solutions: Steps to take to remove leaf mites from plants: Physically remove mites from plants Rinse the leaves of houseplants - spray with a hose or wipe with a moist, soapy cloth Apply neem oil or horticultural oil spray - both of these are easy to use and work quickly on mites indoors and in the garden Use a miticide - a broad spray of miticide can eliminate large populations of leaf mites in the garden (however, this risks also risk killing beneficial mites that eat harmful pests) Use natural enemies like lady beetles and predatory mites to control populations Long-lasting pesticides like permethrin and bifenthrin work, but can deter beneficial insects from visiting
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Soil mold
Soil mold Soil mold Soil mold
Moist environments may encourage the growth of mushrooms or other fungi at the soil's surface that do not affect the health of the plant.
Solutions: Measures to take to remove soil mold: Physically remove mold/mushrooms - remove and dispose of mushrooms. To remove mold, scrape 1/8” of soil from the surface. Add a layer of sand or gravel - adding 1/4” of sand or gravel on top of the soil surface will discourage new fungal growth Sprinkle an antifungal treatment around the plants - this doesn't have to be a commercial fungicide, as many growers swear by all-natural remedies like cinnamon and baking soda Some types of mold contain toxins that can be harmful to humans or irritate those with allergies or asthma. Wear a dust mask while performing these tasks.
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Thrips
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Thrips
Thrips are 1 to 2 mm bugs with slender black or translucent-yellow bodies. They move quickly and feed on the plant's sap.
Overview
Overview
Thrips are tiny, flying, sap-sucking insects that attack the tender parts of plants, causing scarring and weakening of the plant and sometimes, if the infestation is severe enough, plant death. They have undersized double wings with a fringe on them, resembling tiny, misshapen damselflies. Thrips have a taste for many houseplants and crops, making them a serious nuisance.
They appear in early spring after the last frost has occurred. If not controlled in early spring, they will persist for most of the season. They are often attracted to weakened plants, such as those struck by drought/underwatering or malnutrition. Excessive use of nitrogen fertilizer also seems to attract them to a plant. Thrips can spread various viruses between plants, leading to more serious damage.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Thrips are so small that they may not be noticed (1 to 2 mm long), but infested plants present several key signs. Tiny pale spots appear on leaves, which may start to deform, show white or silver discoloration, or become papery in texture.
Flower petals may be damaged as well, and might display color break, which is dark or pale discoloring of petal tissue damaged before the buds had a chance to open. Fruits may show scabby or silvery scarring. Tiny black spots of the insects' excrement may be visible.
As the infestation progresses, infested terminals roll and become discolored, and leaves may drop prematurely. The plant's growth may be stunted. Secondary viral and bacterial infections, which thrips can transmit, may become evident.
The good news? Thrips rarely kill or seriously weaken shrubs and trees. Smaller plants, such as vegetable crops and herbaceous ornamentals, tend to be more severely affected.
Solutions
Solutions
Thrips can be controlled in several ways.
  • Spray plants with Pyrethrin, which is an organic pesticide derived from marigolds (follow label instructions) or Permethrin, the synthetic version of Pyrethrin.
  • Introduce beneficial insects to the garden that eat thrips, such as minute pirate bugs and green lacewings.
  • Remove heavily infested plants from the area and discard.
  • Address viral diseases that may have been transmitted by the pests.
  • For less serious cases -use a hose to spray the thrips off of the plants.
Prevention
Prevention
The best way to protect plants from thrips is to take preventative measures.
  • Avoid buying and transplanting infected plants. Check for signs of thrip damage before buying.
  • Regularly prune off dead branches and leaves.
  • Keep the garden weeded and remove debris such as dead branches and leaves.
  • Avoid unnecessary use of insecticides as they can kill predatory insects that keep thrips in check.
  • Plant a diverse variety of plants in the garden to provide habitat for predatory insects.
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Root rot
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Root rot
Soft root rot can be caused by over-watering or pathogenic infection.
Overview
Overview
Root rot is a common and devastating problem that can infect trees, shrubs and other plants, often with fatal results. It is caused by excessive moisture in the soil, which activates a fungus that can lie dormant in soil and only emerge when conditions are ideal (soggy and wet). Because primary symptoms are hidden beneath the soil, the gardener may not become aware of the problem until upper sections of the plant start to show signs of distress.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Early symptoms may occur below ground and not be obvious until they advance into more visible plant material. Above ground the gardener may be alerted by:
  1. Wilting and yellowing of the leaves.
  2. Softening and discoloration of the stems.
At this stage it is worth making a closer examination of what is going on below the soil.
  1. Soil will feel noticeably damp and boggy.
  2. There will often be a swampy smell emanating from the soil.
  3. Examination of the roots will reveal black or dark brown mushy material.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Root rot is caused by plant pathogens in the soil which are activated by overly-wet conditions. They invade the root material, which begins to die and rot. With roots no longer functioning effectively, there is a shortage of oxygen and nutrients being carried to the upper sections of the plant. These will show the signs of distress that may be what first alerts the gardener to this issue.
Solutions
Solutions
These are the solutions for root rot:
  1. Stop applying water and allow the plant to dry out.
  2. In the case of potted plants, the gardener can remove plant from its container and lay it on a sheet of paper in a shady spot to speed the drying process.
  3. Cut away black mushy root material until healthy white material is reached.
  4. Sprinkle root ball with anti-fungal powder.
  5. Repot using sterilized potting mixture but don't water for first couple of days. Ensure that the new pot offers adequate drainage. Terracotta pots can absorb moisture into their walls.
  6. Adopt an appropriate watering regime. For most potted plants, refrain from watering until the first inch or two of the soil is dry to the touch. Even plants that prefer to be kept "evenly moist" should never be allowed to sit in soggy soil. Outdoor plants should not be receiving so much water that it pools at the surface of the soil.
Prevention
Prevention
With indoor plants these are the best preventative measures:
  1. Ensure that the container offers adequate drainage.
  2. Don't allow the plant to stand in a saucer filled with water.
  3. Adopt an appropriate watering regime which allows the plant to dry out between each watering, according to the preference of each species.
  4. Only use sterilized potting mixtures when planting up or re-potting.
With outdoor plants:
  1. Choose planting positions that offer effective drainage.
  2. Don't over-water.
  3. Rotate plants so that pathogens don't build up.
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Leaf mites
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Leaf mites
Leaf mites are very small - rarely larger than 4 mm - and are hard to spot. They are usually yellow or red and feed on the plant's sap.
Overview
Overview
Leaf mites are frustrating pests that can be found on both indoor- and outdoor-grown plants. They affect all kinds of plants, from shrubs to vegetable crops and everything in between. These tiny pests feed on sap through leaves or needles, causing symptoms that are easy to confuse with drought stress. Severely infested plants can die.
These pests are closely related to spiders but don’t offer all the pest-controlling benefits of their close arachnid cousins. They are extremely small, generally about 0.5 mm in length and yellow to orange in color. When infestations are left unchecked, they can severely stunt the growth of plants or even kill them completely.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Leaf mites use piercing and sucking mouthparts to feed on the sap that is present on the underside of needles and leaves. This can cause small white or yellow spots to develop on the plant tissue, until the entire leaf starts to appear bleached or bronzed. This feeding activity can lead new flowers and leaves to develop in stunted or distorted shapes.
While individual mites may be too small to notice easily, they create a webbing that may be the most apparent and characteristic sign of infestation with leaf mites. This webbing affixes the eggs of the next generation to the leaf.
Eggs can survive through winter conditions, although they do not hatch until the weather is hot and dry. Warmer temperatures increase their rate of development, and in summer weather or warm indoor temperatures colonies of leaf mites can reproduce every 1 to 2 weeks.
Leaves may fall from severely infested plants, and without treatment they can become stunted or even die.
Solutions
Solutions
Steps to take to remove leaf mites from plants:
  • Physically remove mites from plants
  • Rinse the leaves of houseplants - spray with a hose or wipe with a moist, soapy cloth
  • Apply neem oil or horticultural oil spray - both of these are easy to use and work quickly on mites indoors and in the garden
  • Use a miticide - a broad spray of miticide can eliminate large populations of leaf mites in the garden (however, this risks also risk killing beneficial mites that eat harmful pests)
  • Use natural enemies like lady beetles and predatory mites to control populations
  • Long-lasting pesticides like permethrin and bifenthrin work, but can deter beneficial insects from visiting
Prevention
Prevention
The best way to prevent leaf mites from infesting plants is to keep them as healthy as possible. Provide them with appropriate amounts of water, sunlight, and fertilizer, depending on their unique needs. Also, do the following:
  • Inspect plants regularly for leaf mites - do this every three days when conditions are hot and dry
  • Dust or rinse the leaves of houseplants on a regular basis
  • Provide at least one inch of water per week to plants
  • Avoid fertilizing during a drought
  • Select plants that are able to handle drought conditions with ease
  • Clean garden or growing area after every single crop cycle
  • Remove all weeds, as they may be host plants for leaf mites.
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Soil mold
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Soil mold
Moist environments may encourage the growth of mushrooms or other fungi at the soil's surface that do not affect the health of the plant.
Overview
Overview
If there is soil mold around the plants, this isn't necessarily a reason to panic. Mold can occur for several reasons. Most of the time, it's harmless. The microorganisms that exist in mold are, in fact, necessary for healthy plant life. That said, it can be unsightly and in some cases, harmful to certain plants. It's important to understand why mold might be forming. It is only after the potential causes have been identified that steps can be taken to stop mold from spreading or appearing in the future.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The most obvious sign of soil mold is, of course, mold observed on the surface of the soil. This can be fuzzy and white, yellow, or gray in color. Other symptoms may include:
  • Mushrooms
  • Wilted plants
  • Plants are stunted in growth
  • Soil has an odd "off" smell
  • Premature leaf drop or flower/blossom/fruit rot
  • Excess water is leaking from drainage holes
While soil mold doesn't always harm the growth of a plant, it can indicate the presence of a larger problem that needs to be addressed (and these problems can often harm plants).
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are several causes for soil mold. Understanding why mold is growing should be the first step in deciding on the best course of action.
Some potential causes include:
  • Overwatering - fungi consume excess water, so the presence of mold indicates that there is water that the plants aren't readily using
  • Poor drainage - this can be caused by dense, compacted soil, a lack of drainage holes, or an inadequate pot size
  • Poor air circulation - this is common in indoor-grown plants, especially in the winter when windows are closed
  • Contaminated soil - while all soil contains microorganisms, soil can contain fungal spores that lead to mold growth
  • Decomposing leaves on the soil surface feed the mold
Solutions
Solutions
Measures to take to remove soil mold:
  • Physically remove mold/mushrooms - remove and dispose of mushrooms. To remove mold, scrape 1/8” of soil from the surface.
  • Add a layer of sand or gravel - adding 1/4” of sand or gravel on top of the soil surface will discourage new fungal growth
  • Sprinkle an antifungal treatment around the plants - this doesn't have to be a commercial fungicide, as many growers swear by all-natural remedies like cinnamon and baking soda
Some types of mold contain toxins that can be harmful to humans or irritate those with allergies or asthma. Wear a dust mask while performing these tasks.
Prevention
Prevention
Follow these practices to prevent soil mold from forming.
  • Limit moisture - avoid keeping soil damp, and allow it to dry out between waterings. Watering from the bottom of pots with drainage can allow the surface soil to stay dry.
  • Provide aeration - increase airflow around the plants using a fan or wind.
  • Repot - if the container is too small or lacks proper drainage, transplant the plant into a new, better-draining container.
  • Apply a layer of sand - apply 6 mm of sand on top of soil.
  • Use potting mix - when planting, only use potting mix instead of regular soil, as this is specially formulated for the proper moisture retention.
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distribution

Distribution of Yavi cactus

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Habitat of Yavi cactus

Schistose rocks on slopes in a desert
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Yavi cactus

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Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Yavi Cactus Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
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Plants Related to Yavi cactus

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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Yavi cactus thrives well under the full exposure to sun. However, intense midday sun can harm it, causing scorching. This species is adapted to its stark native landscape where the level of sun exposure is typically high. Over-shading can inhibit growth and lead to a lack of blooming.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Yavi cactus is a beloved choice for indoor gardening, and they require strong light to thrive. However, when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting, they may develop symptoms of light deficiency.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Yavi cactus may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Yavi cactus enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Yavi cactus require strong light to thrive, and some are remarkably resilient to sun exposure, rarely suffering from sunburn.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Yavi cactus is native to an environment that experiences temperatures around 68 to 100 °F (20 to 38 °C). These temperate conditions are optimal for it, so try to replicate this environment. Adjustments might be needed for seasonal fluctuations.
Regional wintering strategies
Yavi cactus is a heat-loving plant that gradually stops growing and enters a dormant state during the winter. When the outdoor temperature drops below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it should be moved indoors for cultivation. Choose a location near a south-facing window to provide as much sunlight as possible. If there is insufficient natural light, supplemental lighting can be used. When the temperature falls below {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}, the plant's growth slows down, and watering should be reduced or stopped to prevent root rot. For Yavi cactus grown outdoors, watering should be completely halted during low temperatures. If feasible, you can set up a temporary greenhouse for insulation or use materials such as plastic film or fabric to wrap the plant during cold temperatures.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in Yavi cactus
Yavi cactus thrives in high temperatures and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It grows best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the plant may become weak, wilt, and be prone to root rot. In cases of mild frost damage, there may not be any initial symptoms, but after a week, the plant will gradually wither.
Solutions
Trim off the frostbitten areas, paying attention to whether the roots have rotted. If the roots have rotted, they need to be cut off, and the plant can be propagated through cuttings. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment and place the plant near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. If there is insufficient light, you can use supplemental lighting.
Symptoms of High Temperature in Yavi cactus
During summer, Yavi cactus should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant's growth will cease, it will experience water loss, wilting, and becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Remove the sunburned and rotten parts. Shield the plant from afternoon sunlight until it recovers and starts growing again. For plants with root rot, stop watering until new roots begin to emerge.
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