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Rain lily
Rain lily
Rain lily
Rain lily
Rain lily
Rain lily
Rain lily
Zephyranthes candida
Also known as : White fairy lily, White zephyr lily, Fairy lily
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
8 to 10
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care guide

Care Guide for Rain lily

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Soil Care
Soil Care
Sand, Clay, Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
Ideal Lighting
Ideal Lighting
Full sun, Partial sun
Details on Sunlight Requirements Ideal Lighting
Ideal Temperature
Ideal Temperature
8 to 10
Details on Temperature Ideal Temperature
Planting Time
Planting Time
Early spring, Mid spring
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Rain lily
Water
Water
Every week
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
8 to 10
Planting Time
Planting Time
Early spring, Mid spring
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Questions About Rain lily

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Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Rain lily?
When watering the Rain lily, you should aim to use filtered water that is at room temperature. Filtered water is better for this plant, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to its health. The reason that the water should be at room temperature or slightly warmer is that the Rain lily comes from a warm environment, and cold water can be somewhat of a shock to its system. Also, you should avoid overhead watering for this plant, as it can cause foliage complications. Instead, simply apply your filtered room temperature water to the soil until the soil is entirely soaked. Soaking the soil can be very beneficial for this plant as it moistens the roots and helps them continue to spread through the soil and collect the nutrients they need.
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What should I do if I water my Rain lily too much or too little?
Both overwatering and underwatering will be detrimental to the health of your Rain lily, but overwatering is a far more common issue. When this species receives too much water, its stems and leaves may begin to wilt and turn from green to yellow. Overwatering over a prolonged period may also lead to diseases such as root rot, mold, and mildew, all of which can kill your plant. Underwatering is far less common for the Rain lily, as this plant has decent drought tolerance. However, underwatering remains a possibility, and when it occurs, you can expect to find that the leaves of your Rain lily have become brittle and brown. It is crucial that you notice the signs of overwatering as soon as possible when caring for your Rain lily. Some of the diseases that arise from overwatering, such as root rot, may not be correctable if you wait too long. If you see early signs of overwatering, you should reduce your watering schedule immediately. You may also want to assess the quality of soil in which your Rain lily grows. If you find that the soil drains very poorly, you should replace it immediately with a loose, well-draining potting mix. On the other hand, if you find signs that your Rain lily is receiving too little water, all you need to do is water more regularly until those signs have subsided.
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How often should I water my Rain lily?
If your plant is in a pot. The most precise way to decide whether your Rain lily needs water is to plunge your finger into the soil. If you notice that the first two to three inches of soil have become dry, it is time to add some water. If you grow your Rain lily outdoors in the ground, you can use a similar method to test the soil. Again, when you find that the first few inches of soil have dried out, it is time to add water. During the spring and early fall, this method will often lead you to water this plant about once every week. When extremely hot weather arrives, you may need to increase your watering frequency to about twice or more per week. With that said, mature, well-established the Rain lily can show an admirable ability to withstand drought.
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How much water does my Rain lily need?
When it comes time to water your Rain lily, you should not be shy about how much water you give. With the first two to three inches of soil dry, this plant will appreciate a long and thorough watering. Supply enough water to soak the soil entirely. The amount of water you add should be enough to cause excess water to flow through the drainage holes at the bottom of your pot. If you don’t see excess water draining from the pot, you have likely underwatered your plant. But do not let the water accumulate inside the soil, which will be very dangerous to the plant as well. Alternatively, a lack of water draining through the pot could indicate poorly draining soils, which is detrimental to the health of this plant and should be avoided. If the plant is outside, 1 inch of rain per week will be sufficient.
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How should I water my Rain lily at different growth stages?
The water needs of the Rain lily can change depending on growth stages as well. For example, when your Rain lily is in the first few years of its life, or if you have just transplanted it to a new growing location, you will need to give more water than usual. During both of those stages, your Rain lily will put a lot of energy towards sprouting new roots that will then support future growth. For those roots to perform their best, they need a bit more moisture than they would at a more mature phase. After a few seasons, your Rain lily will need much less water. Another growth stage in which this plant may need more water is during the bloom period. Flower development can make use of a significant amount of moisture, which is why you might need to give your Rain lily more water at this time.
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How should I water my Rain lily through the seasons?
The Rain lily will have its highest water needs during the hottest months of the year. During the height of summer, you may need to give this plant water more than once per week, depending on how fast the soil dries out. The opposite is true during the winter. In winter, your plant will enter a dormant phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. In fact, you may not need to water this plant at all during the winter months. However, if you do water during winter, you should not do so more than about once per month. Watering too much at this time will make it more likely that your Rain lily will contract a disease.
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What's the difference between watering my Rain lily indoors and outdoors?
It is most common to grow the Rain lily indoors for any gardener that does not live in temperate and tropical regions. Those gardeners should consider the fact that soil in a container can dry out a bit faster than ground soil. Also, the presence of drying elements such as air conditioning units can cause your Rain lily to need water on a more frequent basis as well. if you planted it outside. When that is the case, it’s likely you won’t need to water your Rain lily very much at all. If you receive rainfall on a regular basis, that may be enough to keep your plant alive. Alternatively, those who grow this plant inside will need to water it more often, as allowing rainwater to soak the soil will not be an option.
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Key Facts About Rain lily

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Attributes of Rain lily

Lifespan
Perennial, Annual
Plant Type
Herb
Planting Time
Early spring, Mid spring
Bloom Time
Summer, Fall
Plant Height
20 cm
Spread
15 cm to 30 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
2.5 cm
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Stem Color
Green
White
Leaf type
Deciduous
Ideal Temperature
20 - 35 ℃
Growth Season
Summer, Fall
Growth Rate
Slow

Usages

Garden Use

Scientific Classification of Rain lily

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Quickly Identify Rain lily

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Snap a photo for instant plant ID, gaining quick insights on disease prevention, treatment, toxicity, care, uses, and symbolism, etc.
1
Dense clump of rush-like evergreen leaves, up to 1 foot tall (30 cm) and 2 feet wide (60 cm).
2
Distinctive white tubular flowers with 6 petals and yellow stamens, blooming at same height as leaves.
3
Elegant silvery white flowers, 1-2 inches across (2.5-5 cm), with star-like shape and orange stamens.
4
Bright green grass-like leaves, 8-12 inches long (20-30 cm), slender with linear shape and parallel venation.
5
Upright grass-like stems, bright green, 1-2 millimeters in diameter (0.04-0.08 inches), non-branching.
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Common Pests & Diseases About Rain lily

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Common issues for Rain lily based on 10 million real cases
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Aphid
Aphids are a common pest affecting Rain lily, causing stunted growth, yellowed leaves, and potentially plant death if untreated. Management involves both non-chemical and chemical methods focused on early detection and control.
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Plant dried up
Plant dried up Plant dried up
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
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Aphid
Overview
Symptom
Causes
Treatment
Prevention
Active Period
What is Aphid Disease on Rain lily?
What is Aphid Disease on Rain lily?
Aphids are a common pest affecting Rain lily, causing stunted growth, yellowed leaves, and potentially plant death if untreated. Management involves both non-chemical and chemical methods focused on early detection and control.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
On Rain lily, aphid infestation leads to curled leaves, yellowing, and a general weakening of the plant. Infested flowers may fail to develop properly, and severe attacks can retard growth.
What Causes Aphid Disease on Rain lily?
What Causes Aphid Disease on Rain lily?
1
Aphids
Small sap-sucking insects that infest and damage Rain lily by withdrawing sap from the foliage.
How to Treat Aphid Disease on Rain lily?
How to Treat Aphid Disease on Rain lily?
1
Non pesticide
Removal by hand: Manually removing visible aphids can control light infestations on Rain lily.

Water spray: Applying a strong jet of water to dislodge aphids from Rain lily.
2
Pesticide
Insecticidal soap: Application of insecticidal soap can help control aphid populations without harming Rain lily.

Neonicotinoids: Use carefully as it can affect beneficial insects; effective against tougher infestations.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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Plant dried up
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Leaf scorch
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Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Overview
Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
  • Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
  • Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.
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distribution

Distribution of Rain lily

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Habitat of Rain lily

Along rivers, marshes
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Rain lily

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Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Rain Lily Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
Common Pests & Diseases
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Lighting
Full sun
Rain lily thrives when granted maximum daily exposure to sunlight; yet, it can endure a smattering of shade. Originating in conditions where sun is abundant, over or underexposure can hinder its healthy growth. At various growth stages, ensure its consistent access to generous sunlight.
Best Sunlight Practices
Transplant
4-6 inches
The prime time to transplant rain lily is during the cusp of spring's arrival, when mild temperatures support root establishment without the stress of extreme weather. Choose a sunny spot with good drainage to foster robust growth. Gentle handling ensures a seamless transition.
Transplant Techniques
Temperature
0 - 41 ℃
Rain lily is indigenous to environments where temperatures range 68 to 95 °F (20 to 35 ℃). Ideally, it thrives best between these conditions. Seasonal adjustments in temperature should mimic these surroundings for optimal growth.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Pruning
Spring, Summer, Fall
Native to South America, this perennial bulb features grass-like foliage and trumpet-shaped flowers. For rain lily, pruning is minimal, focusing mainly on the removal of spent blooms and yellowing leaves to encourage new growth. The optimal pruning period spans spring through fall, aligning with active growth phases. Timely deadheading prevents seed formation, diverting energy to bulb health, essential for vigorous blooming in subsequent seasons. Care should be taken to sterilize pruning tools to prevent disease transmission.
Pruning techniques
Propagation
Spring
Originating from South America, rain lily is a bulbous perennial known for its resilient nature. Effective propagation can be achieved through dividing its tubers, a method that supports robust growth. Gardener's should gently separate the clumps during dormancy and replant them in well-draining soil, ensuring they have ample space to thrive. Careful attention to watering, ensuring soil moisture without over-saturation, will promote healthy root development and, in time, the emergence of delicate, trumpet-shaped flowers that have made rain lily a favorite among enthusiasts.
Propagation Techniques
Aphid
Aphids are a common pest affecting Rain lily, causing stunted growth, yellowed leaves, and potentially plant death if untreated. Management involves both non-chemical and chemical methods focused on early detection and control.
Read More
Spots
Spots is a plant disease that manifests as discolored lesions on leaves and stems of Rain lily, potentially weakening and disfiguring the plant.
Read More
Dark blotch
Dark blotch is a fungal disease that significantly impacts Rain lily's aesthetic value and health. The fungi cause dark and dry spots on leaves, diminishing the plant's vitality and causing eventual wilting. It is crucial to detect early for mitigation and treatment.
Read More
Leaf rot
Leaf rot in Rain lily is a fungal or bacterial disease leading to decayed foliage, reduced vigor, and potentially plant death. Early detection and management are crucial for maintaining plant health.
Read More
Snail and slug
The 'Snail and slug' disease notably impacts Rain lily, disrupting growth and aesthetics. This pest-related issue primarily manifests through physical damage to the plant and potential disease transmission.
Read More
Whole leaf withering
Whole leaf withering is a disease that causes significant damage to the Rain lily, typically resulting in full leaf shrinkage, drying out, and eventual plant death. The disease is infectious and can rapidly spread across a Rain lily population, necessitating earnest control measures.
Read More
Whole plant withering
Whole plant withering is a serious condition where Rain lily experiences complete wilting, potentially leading to plant death. Caused by multiple factors, it disrupts vital plant processes.
Read More
Scale insect
Scale insects attack Rain lily, leading to yellowing, stunted growth, and premature leaf drop. Essential to address promptly to preserve plant vitality and appearance.
Read More
Spider mite
Spider mite, a prevalent pest, heavily impacts Rain lily, leading to discoloration, stunted growth, and eventual leaf loss. Managing these pests is crucial for maintaining the health and aesthetic of Rain lily.
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Yellow edges
Yellow edges is a disease affecting Rain lily, causing yellowing of leaf edges and eventually impairing the plant's overall health. It's primarily due to nutrient deficiencies or water stresses and moderately infectious but not lethal to the plant.
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Thrips
Thrips are tiny pests affecting Rain lily by inhibiting growth and causing leaf discoloration and deformation. Key issues include reduced flowering and overall plant vitality, leading to significant aesthetic damage.
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Leaf yellowing
Leaf yellowing in Rain lily typically indicates a health issue affecting photosynthesis or nutrient uptake. Impact ranges from aesthetic to severe, potentially affecting growth and flowering.
Read More
Dark spots
Dark spots are a fungal infection that causes black or brown lesions on the leaves and petals of Rain lily, potentially leading to reduced vigor, blemishing of flowers, and advanced cases, plant death.
Read More
Mealybug
Mealybug infestation in Rain lily causes disrupted growth, leading to stunted flowers and foliage deterioration. Minimal direct lethality, but significant aesthetic and vigor reduction make management vital.
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Leaf tip withering
Leaf tip withering is a disease impacting Rain lily, causing the edges of the leaves to wither and die back. It's usually initiated by abiotic factors and can lead to significant reduction in the overall vigor and aesthetic appeal of the plant.
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Feng shui direction
North
As per Feng Shui principles, rain lily synchronizes harmoniously with spaces facing North. This alignment is primarily due to the plant's innate water energy, correlating with the Water Element of the Northern direction. Still, one must regard personal reactions and preferences when interpreting these general principles, as each individual's Chi is uniquely sensitive.
Fengshui Details
Symbolizes
Renewal, rebirth, purity, innocence
Rain lily blooms beautifully after rainfall, symbolizing renewal and rebirth.,Known for its delicate white petals, it evokes purity and innocence.,Often used in garden landscapes for its resilience and vibrant growth.
Flower Meaning for Rain lily
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Plants Related to Rain lily

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Shell ginger
Shell ginger
The distinctive shell ginger plant can grow up to 2.5 to 3 m tall. It bears colorful funnel-shaped flowers that have white or pink perianths. The leaves of the shell ginger are edible and are often used as flavorings in dishes or brewed as an herbal tea.
Indian chrysanthemum
Indian chrysanthemum
Indian chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum indicum) is a flowering plant species that blooms from summer to fall. Indian chrysanthemum must be grown outside under sunlight with moist soil. This plant's leaves can be used to make an aromatic tea.
Pink trumpet tree
Pink trumpet tree
The pink trumpet tree is a striking pink flowering tree. It drops its foliage immediately before bursting into bloom, leaving the gorgeous blossoms as the focal point. This tree is easily pruned to keep its moderate size, and its root system is not aggressive, making it a great tree to plant near patios or driveways to provide shade and beauty.
African lily
African lily
This evergreen herbaceous plant, known as the african lily, is not a lily. Native to South Africa, it has been utilized for various medicinal uses. For the locals, it is a miraculous and healing plant. The flowers are worn to ward off thunderstorms and were worn by females to boost their strength and fertility.
Shrubby daisybush
Shrubby daisybush
Shrubby daisybush (Osteospermum fruticosum) is a plant species that is indigenous to South Africa. Shrubby daisybush is also known as the trailing African daisy. This species is related to the sunflower.
Creeping fig
Creeping fig
Creeping fig (Ficus pumila) is a plant species native to China, Japan and Vietnam. Creeping fig has been naturalized in parts of the United States. It can be cultivated as a houseplant. The FDA lists this species in its Database of Poisonous Plants due to the plant's toxic sap, which causes inflammation.
Cape jasmine
Cape jasmine
Gardenia jasminoides is an evergreen shrub with unique, glossy evergreen leaves and stunning flowers. The sophisticated, matte white flowers are often used in bouquets. The exceptional beauty of this ornamental plant has made it a popular and highly appreciated plant amongst gardeners and horticulturalists.
Golden pothos
Golden pothos
The golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular houseplant that is commonly seen in Australia, Asia, and the West Indies. It goes by many nicknames, including "devil's ivy", because it is so hard to kill and can even grow in low light conditions. Golden pothos has poisonous sap, so it should be kept away from pets and children.
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Rain lily
Rain lily
Rain lily
Rain lily
Rain lily
Rain lily
Rain lily
Zephyranthes candida
Also known as: White fairy lily, White zephyr lily, Fairy lily
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
8 to 10
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Care Guide for Rain lily

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Questions About Rain lily

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Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
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Key Facts About Rain lily

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Attributes of Rain lily

Lifespan
Perennial, Annual
Plant Type
Herb
Planting Time
Early spring, Mid spring
Bloom Time
Summer, Fall
Plant Height
20 cm
Spread
15 cm to 30 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
2.5 cm
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Stem Color
Green
White
Leaf type
Deciduous
Ideal Temperature
20 - 35 ℃
Growth Season
Summer, Fall
Growth Rate
Slow
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Usages

Garden Use

Scientific Classification of Rain lily

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Quickly Identify Rain lily

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1
Dense clump of rush-like evergreen leaves, up to 1 foot tall (30 cm) and 2 feet wide (60 cm).
2
Distinctive white tubular flowers with 6 petals and yellow stamens, blooming at same height as leaves.
3
Elegant silvery white flowers, 1-2 inches across (2.5-5 cm), with star-like shape and orange stamens.
4
Bright green grass-like leaves, 8-12 inches long (20-30 cm), slender with linear shape and parallel venation.
5
Upright grass-like stems, bright green, 1-2 millimeters in diameter (0.04-0.08 inches), non-branching.
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Common Pests & Diseases About Rain lily

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Common issues for Rain lily based on 10 million real cases
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Aphid
Aphids are a common pest affecting Rain lily, causing stunted growth, yellowed leaves, and potentially plant death if untreated. Management involves both non-chemical and chemical methods focused on early detection and control.
Learn More About the Aphid more
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Plant dried up
Plant dried up Plant dried up Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
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Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch Leaf scorch Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
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Aphid
Overview
Symptom
Causes
Treatment
Prevention
Active Period
What is Aphid Disease on Rain lily?
What is Aphid Disease on Rain lily?
Aphids are a common pest affecting Rain lily, causing stunted growth, yellowed leaves, and potentially plant death if untreated. Management involves both non-chemical and chemical methods focused on early detection and control.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
On Rain lily, aphid infestation leads to curled leaves, yellowing, and a general weakening of the plant. Infested flowers may fail to develop properly, and severe attacks can retard growth.
What Causes Aphid Disease on Rain lily?
What Causes Aphid Disease on Rain lily?
1
Aphids
Small sap-sucking insects that infest and damage Rain lily by withdrawing sap from the foliage.
How to Treat Aphid Disease on Rain lily?
How to Treat Aphid Disease on Rain lily?
1
Non pesticide
Removal by hand: Manually removing visible aphids can control light infestations on Rain lily.

Water spray: Applying a strong jet of water to dislodge aphids from Rain lily.
2
Pesticide
Insecticidal soap: Application of insecticidal soap can help control aphid populations without harming Rain lily.

Neonicotinoids: Use carefully as it can affect beneficial insects; effective against tougher infestations.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Plant dried up
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Leaf scorch
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Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Overview
Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
  • Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
  • Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms.
  • Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves.
  • Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement.
  • Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation.
  • If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach.
  • If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry.
  • Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections.
  • If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Physiological leaf scorch is best avoided by making sure your plants have a healthy, functional root system and access to enough water. Water regularly, especially on the mornings of excessively hot, sunny days. Deep, infrequent irrigation is better than shallow, frequent irrigation.
  • Have your soil tested and apply the proper nutrients. Be sure to not over-apply fertilizers.
  • Make sure your plants’ roots have room to expand. Avoid compacted soil as well and avoid paving areas above the root zone. Do not till or disturb the soil where plant roots are growing.
  • Plant new trees and shrubs in the fall, so that they have the maximum amount of time to become established before the environmental stresses of the next summer.
  • Remove any dead or dying plant tissue that may harbor secondary infections.
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Distribution of Rain lily

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Habitat of Rain lily

Along rivers, marshes
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Rain lily

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Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Rain Lily Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
Common Pests & Diseases
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Aphid
Aphids are a common pest affecting Rain lily, causing stunted growth, yellowed leaves, and potentially plant death if untreated. Management involves both non-chemical and chemical methods focused on early detection and control.
 detail
Spots
Spots is a plant disease that manifests as discolored lesions on leaves and stems of Rain lily, potentially weakening and disfiguring the plant.
 detail
Dark blotch
Dark blotch is a fungal disease that significantly impacts Rain lily's aesthetic value and health. The fungi cause dark and dry spots on leaves, diminishing the plant's vitality and causing eventual wilting. It is crucial to detect early for mitigation and treatment.
 detail
Leaf rot
Leaf rot in Rain lily is a fungal or bacterial disease leading to decayed foliage, reduced vigor, and potentially plant death. Early detection and management are crucial for maintaining plant health.
 detail
Snail and slug
The 'Snail and slug' disease notably impacts Rain lily, disrupting growth and aesthetics. This pest-related issue primarily manifests through physical damage to the plant and potential disease transmission.
 detail
Whole leaf withering
Whole leaf withering is a disease that causes significant damage to the Rain lily, typically resulting in full leaf shrinkage, drying out, and eventual plant death. The disease is infectious and can rapidly spread across a Rain lily population, necessitating earnest control measures.
 detail
Whole plant withering
Whole plant withering is a serious condition where Rain lily experiences complete wilting, potentially leading to plant death. Caused by multiple factors, it disrupts vital plant processes.
 detail
Scale insect
Scale insects attack Rain lily, leading to yellowing, stunted growth, and premature leaf drop. Essential to address promptly to preserve plant vitality and appearance.
 detail
Spider mite
Spider mite, a prevalent pest, heavily impacts Rain lily, leading to discoloration, stunted growth, and eventual leaf loss. Managing these pests is crucial for maintaining the health and aesthetic of Rain lily.
 detail
Yellow edges
Yellow edges is a disease affecting Rain lily, causing yellowing of leaf edges and eventually impairing the plant's overall health. It's primarily due to nutrient deficiencies or water stresses and moderately infectious but not lethal to the plant.
 detail
Thrips
Thrips are tiny pests affecting Rain lily by inhibiting growth and causing leaf discoloration and deformation. Key issues include reduced flowering and overall plant vitality, leading to significant aesthetic damage.
 detail
Leaf yellowing
Leaf yellowing in Rain lily typically indicates a health issue affecting photosynthesis or nutrient uptake. Impact ranges from aesthetic to severe, potentially affecting growth and flowering.
 detail
Dark spots
Dark spots are a fungal infection that causes black or brown lesions on the leaves and petals of Rain lily, potentially leading to reduced vigor, blemishing of flowers, and advanced cases, plant death.
 detail
Mealybug
Mealybug infestation in Rain lily causes disrupted growth, leading to stunted flowers and foliage deterioration. Minimal direct lethality, but significant aesthetic and vigor reduction make management vital.
 detail
Leaf tip withering
Leaf tip withering is a disease impacting Rain lily, causing the edges of the leaves to wither and die back. It's usually initiated by abiotic factors and can lead to significant reduction in the overall vigor and aesthetic appeal of the plant.
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Plants Related to Rain lily

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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Rain lily thrives when granted maximum daily exposure to sunlight; yet, it can endure a smattering of shade. Originating in conditions where sun is abundant, over or underexposure can hinder its healthy growth. At various growth stages, ensure its consistent access to generous sunlight.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Rain lily thrives in full sunlight and is commonly grown outdoors where it receives ample sunlight. When placed in rooms with inadequate lighting, symptoms of light deficiency may not be readily apparent.
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Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Rain lily may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Rain lily enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Rain lily thrives in full sun exposure and can tolerate intense sunlight. With their remarkable resilience, symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible, as they rarely suffer from it.
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Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Rain lily is indigenous to environments where temperatures range 68 to 95 °F (20 to 35 ℃). Ideally, it thrives best between these conditions. Seasonal adjustments in temperature should mimic these surroundings for optimal growth.
Regional wintering strategies
Rain lily has some cold tolerance and generally does not require any additional measures when the temperature is above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. However, if the temperature is expected to drop below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it is necessary to take some temporary measures for cold protection, such as wrapping the plant with plastic film, fabric, or other materials. Once the temperature rises again, the protective measures should be removed promptly.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in Rain lily
Rain lily has moderate tolerance to low temperatures and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves may start to droop. In mild cases, they can recover, but in severe cases, the leaves will wilt and eventually fall off.
Solutions
Trim off the frost-damaged parts. Prior to encountering low temperatures again, wrap the plant with materials such as non-woven fabric or cloth, and construct a wind barrier to protect it from the cold wind.
Symptoms of High Temperature in Rain lily
During summer, Rain lily should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the color of the leaves becomes lighter, the leaf tips may become dry and withered, the leaves may curl, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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