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Orchid
Orchid
Orchid
Cryptochilus roseus
Orchid (Cryptochilus roseus) is an epiphyte orchid with 2.5 cm flowers that are white with a rosy pink glow. Flowers bloom in spring and produce 3 to 4 blooms per stem. Native to China, it prefers filtered sunlight, medium moisture and highly humid conditions.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
9 to 11
more
care guide

Care Guide for Orchid

What Are the Lighting Requirements for Orchid?
What Are the Lighting Requirements for Orchid?
Partial sun
Details on Sunlight Requirements What Are the Lighting Requirements for Orchid?
What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Orchid?
What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Orchid?
9 to 11
Details on Temperature What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Orchid?
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Orchid
Water
Water
Every week
Sunlight
Sunlight
Partial sun
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Questions About Orchid

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Orchid?
The manner in which you water the Orchid will depend somewhat on whether or not your plant is in an active growth phase. If so, you should apply water to your plant’s soil and, if the weather is warm, perform occasional overhead watering to allow the plant to absorb moisture through its leaves. By contrast, in winter, and when the weather is cool or wet generally, you should stick to watering the soil directly rather than including overhead watering as well. You’ll know your Orchid needs more water if its roots and leaves become thin and dry or show discoloration. Orchid receives too much water will look mushy and limp. You should grow your Orchid in a pot and ensure that the potting mix you use has fantastic drainage. During the growing season, you’ll need to water this plant multiple times per week. However, each watering should drain quickly through the growing medium to prevent any standing water. The amount of water you give will change based on the size of the pot you use. Generally, pots that are a bit larger will need water less frequently, while smaller pots will have a slightly more frequent watering schedule. Rainwater and distilled water are the best kinds of water to use for this plant, and it is best if the water you use matches the temperature of the air as closely as possible.
Read More more
What should I do if I water my Orchid too much or too little?
Allowing your Orchid to sit in soil that remains too moist for too long is one of the most common ways to kill this plant. While these plants need water frequently during active growth, they also need to live in a growing medium that drains water rapidly. When this plant experiences overwatering, it will become mushy and develop root rot. If that occurs, you should be prepared to use a pair of sterile pruning shears to cut out any roots that show signs of rot. After doing that, you should then repot your Orchid, ensuring that the container allows for drainage and that you fill the container with a fast-draining potting mix. However, Orchid doesn’t typically respond that well to excessive repotting, so it is crucial to get your watering rate right. Underwatered Orchid will begin to shrivel and feel dry to the touch. If this occurs, it is likely because the soil is drying out faster than you expected, which means you should increase your watering frequency.
Read More more
How often should I water my Orchid?
During the active growth stage, which spans the spring and summer months, you should plan to water your Orchid about once or twice per week while increasing that rate to three times per week or more in the case of long periods of hot and dry weather. In the winter, you will also need to water your Orchid, but not nearly as much. A watering frequency of two to three times per month should be enough to keep your Orchid alive during the coldest months. However, if you keep your Orchid indoors during winter, you should account for the fact that indoor growing locations can cause the soil to dry quicker than usual, which may mean you need to increase the number of monthly waterings. You can use the fall as a time to gradually reduce your watering frequency from the summer rate of multiple times per week down to your reduced winter watering schedule.
Read More more
What should I consider when watering my Orchid in different seasons and growth periods?
There are two important growth phases that you should consider when planning the watering schedule for your Orchid. The first of those periods is the active growth period, which happens in spring and summer, and which calls for watering this plant multiple times per week. The second important growth period is the rest period that the Orchid should experience for about two to three months each year during winter. During that time, your plant will need far less water and fertilization than normal. Water about once or twice per month during this time. During the fall, you should begin to gradually reduce your watering frequency from multiple times per week all the way down to the once or twice per month rate that is appropriate for winter.
Read More more
How should I water my Orchid differently if I grow it indoors?
The Orchid requires a growing environment that is relatively humid. Unfortunately, most indoor growing locations will lack the level of air moisture that this plant prefers. This causes the plant and its soil to dry out more quickly than it would when growing outdoors. To combat this effect, you may want to include a humidifier in the room where you grow your Orchid. You may also need to water it a bit more frequently as well. However, while Orchids do prefer humidity, they also require adequate air circulation as well, to prevent excessive moisture build-ups and the diseases that can result. Consider including a fan in the room where you grow this plant as well to ensure proper air circulation remains present.
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Key Facts About Orchid

Attributes of Orchid

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Herb
Bloom Time
Winter
Plant Height
25 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Blue
Flower Size
2.5 cm
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Pink
Leaf type
Evergreen

Scientific Classification of Orchid

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Orchid

Common issues for Orchid based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Root rot
Root rot Root rot
Root rot
Soft root rot can be caused by over-watering or pathogenic infection.
Solutions: These are the solutions for root rot: Stop applying water and allow the plant to dry out. In the case of potted plants, the gardener can remove plant from its container and lay it on a sheet of paper in a shady spot to speed the drying process. Cut away black mushy root material until healthy white material is reached. Sprinkle root ball with anti-fungal powder. Repot using sterilized potting mixture but don't water for first couple of days. Ensure that the new pot offers adequate drainage. Terracotta pots can absorb moisture into their walls. Adopt an appropriate watering regime. For most potted plants, refrain from watering until the first inch or two of the soil is dry to the touch. Even plants that prefer to be kept "evenly moist" should never be allowed to sit in soggy soil. Outdoor plants should not be receiving so much water that it pools at the surface of the soil.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
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Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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Root rot
plant poor
Root rot
Soft root rot can be caused by over-watering or pathogenic infection.
Overview
Overview
Root rot is a common and devastating problem that can infect trees, shrubs and other plants, often with fatal results. It is caused by excessive moisture in the soil, which activates a fungus that can lie dormant in soil and only emerge when conditions are ideal (soggy and wet). Because primary symptoms are hidden beneath the soil, the gardener may not become aware of the problem until upper sections of the plant start to show signs of distress.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Early symptoms may occur below ground and not be obvious until they advance into more visible plant material. Above ground the gardener may be alerted by:
  1. Wilting and yellowing of the leaves.
  2. Softening and discoloration of the stems.
At this stage it is worth making a closer examination of what is going on below the soil.
  1. Soil will feel noticeably damp and boggy.
  2. There will often be a swampy smell emanating from the soil.
  3. Examination of the roots will reveal black or dark brown mushy material.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Root rot is caused by plant pathogens in the soil which are activated by overly-wet conditions. They invade the root material, which begins to die and rot. With roots no longer functioning effectively, there is a shortage of oxygen and nutrients being carried to the upper sections of the plant. These will show the signs of distress that may be what first alerts the gardener to this issue.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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distribution

Distribution of Orchid

Habitat of Orchid

Dense forests
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Orchid

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
habit
care_scenes

More Info on Orchid Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
Explore More
Lighting
Partial sun
Orchid originates from the understory of tropical forests or among rocks, which offer natural shade. It prefers partial sun but can also tolerate full sun, adapting well to varying light conditions.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
0 43 ℃
Orchid is native to temperate environments, favoring temperatures of 68 to 100.4 °F (20 to 38 ℃). During seasons when temperatures fluctuate, adjustments might be necessary to prevent thermal stress.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
1 foot
Transplanting orchid fares best in the golden transition from summer to fall (S3-S4), as cooler temperatures and poised rainfall nurture root development. Choose a partly shaded area for orchid, avoiding locations in harsh direct sunlight. Remember, gentle handling during transplant secures healthy growth!
Transplant Techniques
Feng shui direction
North
The orchid is generally seen as compatible with a North-facing direction. This is because the color, shape, and growth pattern of the orchid are believed to symbolically resonate with the element of water, which is linked with North in Feng Shui. However, interpretations may vary according to different schools of thought.
Fengshui Details
other_plant

Plants Related to Orchid

Black nightshade
Black nightshade
Native to North America, eastern black nightshade is attractive but poisonous. Like many Solanum ptychanthum plants, all green portions of the plant contain the solanum alkaloid, which is highly toxic. Eastern black nightshade is shade-tolerant, so it can often be found growing in the shadow of crops. Bees and some beetles feed on the plant, but most other wildlife avoids it.
Silvergreen bryum moss
Silvergreen bryum moss
Silvergreen bryum moss (Bryum argenteum) is a moss species found on all global continents, even Antarctica. Silvergreen bryum moss is also referred to as silvery thread moss. It is often spread on the soles of people's shoes or on the feet of animals.
Chawan
Chawan
Chawan, known as Alim in the Philippines, is a medium-sized tree. It is native to Southeast Asia, and its leaves are used to sweeten the taste of an Indonesian cereal-based dish called tapé.
Spanish dagger
Spanish dagger
Spanish dagger is a fast-growing species of Yucca with cream-colored flowers. It is native to the southern United States and grows best in sandy soils and full sun. This tropical plant is hardy down to 22 degrees Fahrenheit.
Canadian tick-trefoil
Canadian tick-trefoil
The canadian tick-trefoil is a nitrogen-fixing plant that lives in some kind of symbiotic relationship with soil bacteria. It makes the nitrogen for itself, but it also shares a certain amount with nearby plants. The roots and the leaves of the canadian tick-trefoil have anti-insect properties thus can be used as pesticides.
Broom forkmoss
Broom forkmoss
Broom forkmoss is a tough, coarse moss that is native to North America. It typically grows in clumps and leaves are approximately 2 to 8 cm high. Broom forkmoss can be found growing among other mosses in forested areas in dry to moist soil.
Crimson cattleya
Crimson cattleya
Crimson cattleya (Cattleya labiata) is a flowering plant native to Brazil. Crimson cattleya can grow up in other trees, on rocks, or in soil. Crimson cattleya is pollinated by insects and attracts bees. An alternative name for the crimson cattleya is the ruby-lipped cattleya.
Clamshell orchid
Clamshell orchid
Clamshell orchid is a favorite orchid because it blooms consistently. It features a clamshell-shaped bloom with hanging yellow petals. These beautiful orchids are available in a wide variety of colors and markings. These orchids prefer high humidity and bright indirect light.
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About
Care Guide
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More Info
Pests & Diseases
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Related Plants
Orchid
Orchid
Orchid
Cryptochilus roseus
Orchid (Cryptochilus roseus) is an epiphyte orchid with 2.5 cm flowers that are white with a rosy pink glow. Flowers bloom in spring and produce 3 to 4 blooms per stem. Native to China, it prefers filtered sunlight, medium moisture and highly humid conditions.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
9 to 11
more
care guide

Care Guide for Orchid

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Questions About Orchid

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Orchid?
more
What should I do if I water my Orchid too much or too little?
more
How often should I water my Orchid?
more
What should I consider when watering my Orchid in different seasons and growth periods?
more
How should I water my Orchid differently if I grow it indoors?
more
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Keep your plants happy and healthy with our guide to watering, lighting, feeding and more.
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plant_info

Key Facts About Orchid

Attributes of Orchid

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Herb
Bloom Time
Winter
Plant Height
25 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Blue
Flower Size
2.5 cm
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Pink
Leaf type
Evergreen
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Scientific Classification of Orchid

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Orchid

Common issues for Orchid based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More About the Brown spot more
Root rot
Root rot Root rot Root rot
Soft root rot can be caused by over-watering or pathogenic infection.
Solutions: These are the solutions for root rot: Stop applying water and allow the plant to dry out. In the case of potted plants, the gardener can remove plant from its container and lay it on a sheet of paper in a shady spot to speed the drying process. Cut away black mushy root material until healthy white material is reached. Sprinkle root ball with anti-fungal powder. Repot using sterilized potting mixture but don't water for first couple of days. Ensure that the new pot offers adequate drainage. Terracotta pots can absorb moisture into their walls. Adopt an appropriate watering regime. For most potted plants, refrain from watering until the first inch or two of the soil is dry to the touch. Even plants that prefer to be kept "evenly moist" should never be allowed to sit in soggy soil. Outdoor plants should not be receiving so much water that it pools at the surface of the soil.
Learn More About the Root rot more
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More About the Aged yellow and dry more
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AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
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close
Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Root rot
plant poor
Root rot
Soft root rot can be caused by over-watering or pathogenic infection.
Overview
Overview
Root rot is a common and devastating problem that can infect trees, shrubs and other plants, often with fatal results. It is caused by excessive moisture in the soil, which activates a fungus that can lie dormant in soil and only emerge when conditions are ideal (soggy and wet). Because primary symptoms are hidden beneath the soil, the gardener may not become aware of the problem until upper sections of the plant start to show signs of distress.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Early symptoms may occur below ground and not be obvious until they advance into more visible plant material. Above ground the gardener may be alerted by:
  1. Wilting and yellowing of the leaves.
  2. Softening and discoloration of the stems.
At this stage it is worth making a closer examination of what is going on below the soil.
  1. Soil will feel noticeably damp and boggy.
  2. There will often be a swampy smell emanating from the soil.
  3. Examination of the roots will reveal black or dark brown mushy material.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Root rot is caused by plant pathogens in the soil which are activated by overly-wet conditions. They invade the root material, which begins to die and rot. With roots no longer functioning effectively, there is a shortage of oxygen and nutrients being carried to the upper sections of the plant. These will show the signs of distress that may be what first alerts the gardener to this issue.
Solutions
Solutions
These are the solutions for root rot:
  1. Stop applying water and allow the plant to dry out.
  2. In the case of potted plants, the gardener can remove plant from its container and lay it on a sheet of paper in a shady spot to speed the drying process.
  3. Cut away black mushy root material until healthy white material is reached.
  4. Sprinkle root ball with anti-fungal powder.
  5. Repot using sterilized potting mixture but don't water for first couple of days. Ensure that the new pot offers adequate drainage. Terracotta pots can absorb moisture into their walls.
  6. Adopt an appropriate watering regime. For most potted plants, refrain from watering until the first inch or two of the soil is dry to the touch. Even plants that prefer to be kept "evenly moist" should never be allowed to sit in soggy soil. Outdoor plants should not be receiving so much water that it pools at the surface of the soil.
Prevention
Prevention
With indoor plants these are the best preventative measures:
  1. Ensure that the container offers adequate drainage.
  2. Don't allow the plant to stand in a saucer filled with water.
  3. Adopt an appropriate watering regime which allows the plant to dry out between each watering, according to the preference of each species.
  4. Only use sterilized potting mixtures when planting up or re-potting.
With outdoor plants:
  1. Choose planting positions that offer effective drainage.
  2. Don't over-water.
  3. Rotate plants so that pathogens don't build up.
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unlimited guides at your fingertips...
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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distribution

Distribution of Orchid

Habitat of Orchid

Dense forests
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Orchid

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
care_scenes

More Info on Orchid Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Plants Related to Orchid

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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Partial sun
Ideal
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Orchid originates from the understory of tropical forests or among rocks, which offer natural shade. It prefers partial sun but can also tolerate full sun, adapting well to varying light conditions.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Orchid thrives in partial sunlight but can tolerate full sunlight in cooler weather. However, during winter when cultivated indoors, it is more prone to light deficiency due to being placed in rooms with insufficient lighting.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Orchid may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Orchid enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To optimize plant growth, shift them to increasingly sunnier spots each week until they receive 3-6 hours of direct sunlight daily, enabling gradual adaptation to changing light conditions.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Orchid thrives in partial sun exposure but can handle full sun in cooler weather. However, in the summer, they are prone to sunburn as they cannot tolerate intense sunlight in high-temperature environments.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Orchid is native to temperate environments, favoring temperatures of 68 to 100.4 °F (20 to 38 ℃). During seasons when temperatures fluctuate, adjustments might be necessary to prevent thermal stress.
Regional wintering strategies
Orchid is a tropical plant, so during the winter, if the minimum temperature drops below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it is recommended to bring Orchid indoors for cultivation. Maintaining indoor temperatures above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} is highly beneficial. Choose a location near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. Additionally, regularly mist the plant or use a humidifier to maintain humidity levels. For orchids that need to overwinter outdoors, it is essential to ensure they are in a sheltered position that receives sunlight. During colder temperatures, you can set up a temporary greenhouse or use materials such as plastic film or fabric to wrap the plants.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Orchid thrives in warm environments and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It grows best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves will exhibit extensive water-soaked necrosis, wilting, and drooping.
Solutions
Trim off the frostbitten areas. Immediately bring indoors to a warm environment for protection against the cold. Choose a location near a south-facing window to place the plant, ensuring ample sunlight. Additionally, avoid placing the plant near heaters or air conditioning vents to prevent excessive dryness in the air.
High Temperature
During summer, Orchid should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant's growth will cease, and its leaves will gradually wilt. It becomes more susceptible to root rot and can be easily sunburned when exposed to direct sunlight.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep both the plant and the environment moist.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Orchid?
Transplanting orchid fares best in the golden transition from summer to fall (S3-S4), as cooler temperatures and poised rainfall nurture root development. Choose a partly shaded area for orchid, avoiding locations in harsh direct sunlight. Remember, gentle handling during transplant secures healthy growth!
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Orchid?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Orchid?
The best time to transplant orchid is between the later part of summer and the start of fall (S3-S4). This time provides an excellent balance between temperature and humidity, which is crucial for the plant's root establishment. Additionally, it offers orchid ample time to develop a robust root system before the harsh winter sets in. When you transplant orchid during this period, you grant it the opportunity to mature adequately, ensuring brighter and healthier blooms in the next growing season. So, for the best growth and color out of your orchid, choose the end of summer to early autumn for transplanting.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Orchid Plants?
For orchid, spacing is vital! Ideally, leave about 1 foot (30 cm) between each plant. This ensures they have enough room to spread their roots and flourish. Remember, plants need their own personal space, just like us!
What is the Best Soil Mix for Orchid Transplanting?
Time to get your hands dirty! Orchid loves a rich and well-drained soil. Mix in base fertilizer like well-rotted compost or manure to improve soil fertility. This gives your plant a nutrient-rich home!
Where Should You Relocate Your Orchid?
Finding the perfect sunbathing spot is your next step. Orchid enjoys partial shade to full sun exposure. A spot with morning sunlight and afternoon shade is perfect! Remember, too much sun can lead to sunburn for your plant!
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Orchid?
Gardening Gloves
These are essential to protect your hands while working with the soil and plant.
Shovel or Spade
This is used for digging the hole to plant orchid and removing it from its original location.
Garden Trowel
Useful for removing orchid when it's in a smaller pot.
Watering Can
To water the plant during and after the transplanting process to help it settle into the new environment.
Mulch
To cover the newly transplanted area, helping retain moisture.
How Do You Remove Orchid from the Soil?
From Ground: To remove orchid from the ground, begin by watering it to dampen the soil. This makes it easier to dig around without causing damage to the roots. Use your shovel to dig a sufficiently wide trench around the plant, ensuring the plant's root ball remains intact. Once the trench is created, carefully work your shovel under the root ball to lift the plant from its current location.
From Pot: If orchid is growing in a pot, water it well before starting the removal process. Use a garden trowel or your hands to loosen the soil around the edge of the pot. Tilt the pot sideways, hold the plant gently by its base and then slowly pull it out while tapping the bottom of the pot.
From Seedling Tray: If orchid is still a seedling growing in a seedling tray, water it to make sure the soil is damp. Then, gently hold the plant by its leaves, not the stem, and carefully pull it up, disturbing the roots as little as possible.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Orchid
Step1 Preparation
Dampen the soil around orchid before the removal process to help preserve the root ball during transplantation.
Step2 Digging
Dig the hole in the new location. It should be deep enough for the roots and wide enough for them to spread out.
Step3 Insertion
Place the plant into the hole, making sure that it's not planted deeper than it was in its original location. Fill the hole with soil firmly around the plant to keep it in place.
Step4 Watering
Water the plant immediately after transplanting. Make sure it is watered thoroughly, allowing the soil to settle around the roots.
Step5 Mulching
Apply a layer of mulch around the plant to help retain the moisture.
How Do You Care For Orchid After Transplanting?
Watering
Keep the soil around orchid consistently moist, but not soggy. This will help the plant establish strong roots in its new home.
Inspecting
Regularly check your orchid for any signs of transplant shock which may be indicated by drooping or yellowing leaves. If these signs are present, adjust watering and check if it's receiving the right amount of light.
Pruning
If possible, prune back the plant after transplanting to reduce its demand of water and nutrients from the roots. This can help the plant recover more effectively from the shock of transplanting.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Orchid Transplantation.
When is the optimum transplanting season for orchid?
The best time to transplant orchid is during the third to fourth seasons (S3-S4) for plant compatibility and efficiency.
What is the ideal spacing for orchid in the garden?
For healthy growth, orchid requires about 1 foot (30 cm) spacing. This ensures adequate room for expansion and proper air circulation.
How big of a hole should I dig to transplant orchid?
The hole should be twice the size of orchid's root ball. This gives the roots space to spread out and anchor the plant.
How to prepare the soil for orchid's transplantation?
Before transplanting, enrich the soil with compost or organic matter. This will improve soil fertility, providing enough nutrients for orchid.
What instructions to follow after placing orchid in the hole for transplantation?
After placing orchid in the hole, backfill it with soil. Ensure that the plant is level with or slightly below the soil surface.
How should I water orchid post-transplantation?
Orchid should be watered immediately after transplanting to settle the soil around the roots. Water thoroughly but avoid over-watering.
How to ensure the successful transplantation of orchid in terms of sunlight?
Orchid requires partial to full sunlight. After transplanting, place it in a suitable location for optimal growth.
What should I do if orchid shows signs of distress after transplanting?
If orchid shows signs of wilting or discolored leaves, it might be due to transplant shock. Water it sufficiently, and it should recover with time.
How can I protect transplanted orchid from pests and diseases?
Keeping orchid at the right spacing and getting rid of weeds are crucial steps to protect it from pests and diseases, also consider using organic pesticides.
How regularly should I water orchid post-transplanting?
Watering orchid should be regular but depend on the soil's dryness. Always keep the soil slightly moist, not soaked or completely dry.
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