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Scarlet clock vine
Thunbergia coccinea
Scarlet clock vine grows across a region of Asia centered around the Himalayas at elevations up to about 2000 m. Its vines produce hanging flowers that can vary in color from deep red to orange or yellow depending on the local temperature. Scarlet clock vine typically needs plenty of humidity to grow well.
Planting Time
All year round
Care Guide for Scarlet clock vine
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Scarlet clock vine
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
10 to 11
Planting Time
All year round
Key Facts About Scarlet clock vine
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Attributes of Scarlet clock vine
Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Vine, Shrub
Planting Time
All year round
Plant Height
3 m to 9 m
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
35 cm
Flower Color
Red
Orange
Leaf type
Semi-evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃
Scientific Classification of Scarlet clock vine
Phylum
Vascular plants
Class
Dicotyledons
Family
Acanthus
Genus
Thunbergias
Species
Scarlet clock vine
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Common Pests & Diseases About Scarlet clock vine
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Common issues for Scarlet clock vine based on 10 million real cases
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Dark blotch
Dark blotch is a fungal disease that affects Scarlet clock vine, leading to significant aesthetic and physiological damage. Marked by dark spots on foliage, it can severely limit the plant's photosynthetic capabilities and overall vigor.
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Dark blotch
Overview
Symptom
Causes
Treatment
Prevention
Active Period
What is Dark blotch Disease on Scarlet clock vine?
Dark blotch is a fungal disease that affects Scarlet clock vine, leading to significant aesthetic and physiological damage. Marked by dark spots on foliage, it can severely limit the plant's photosynthetic capabilities and overall vigor.
Symptom Analysis
Dark blotch manifests as irregular dark spots or patches primarily on the leaves of Scarlet clock vine. These lesions hinder photosynthesis and can cause leaf discoloration, defoliation, and stunted growth.
What Causes Dark blotch Disease on Scarlet clock vine?
Fungal pathogens
Specific fungi that thrive in moist conditions are responsible for causing dark blotches on the leaves of Scarlet clock vine.
How to Treat Dark blotch Disease on Scarlet clock vine?
Non pesticide
Improve air circulation: Prune overly dense foliage to enhance airflow and reduce fungal infection opportunities.
Remove infected parts: Regularly inspect and promptly remove infected leaves or branches to prevent spread.
Pesticide
Use fungicides: Apply fungicides that are specifically effective against leaf-spotting fungi, following label instructions for dosages and application intervals.
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
- Wilted, droopy flowers
- Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
- Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
- Flowerhead shrink in size
- Petal color fades
- Yellowing leaves
- Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
- At first, flowers may look a little limp.
- Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
- Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
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Distribution of Scarlet clock vine
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Habitat of Scarlet clock vine
Garden
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere
Distribution Map of Scarlet clock vine
Scarlet clock vine is a plant originally native to South Asia and parts of Southeast Asia. It has naturalized in several regions outside its native range, where it is also cultivated. Its presence spans from the Himalayan foothills to the Indochinese peninsula, establishing itself in diverse habitats within these major areas.
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info on Scarlet Clock Vine Growth and Care
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Basic Care Guide
Common Pests & Diseases
Lighting
Full sun
Scarlet clock vine flourishes in generous amounts of sunlight, capable of withstanding areas with moderate sun exposure. In its native habitat, it thrives under the full day sun, promoting vigorous growth. Over-exposure can cause leaf scorching, while insufficient light stunts its progress, resulting in a frail plant.
Best Sunlight Practices 
Transplant
24-36 inches
For scarlet clock vine, the quintessential window is from the vitality of late spring into the heart of summer, ensuring warmer soil for root establishment. Opt for a well-lit locale, sheltered from harsh elements. Only consider enriching their new home if the soil lacks heartiness.
Transplant Techniques 
Temperature
5 - 43 ℃
Scarlet clock vine originates from climates where temperatures usually range from 68 to 100 °F (20 to 38 ℃). These plants prefer warm conditions but can adjust as per the seasonal variations, provided the temperature doesn't drop below the said range.
Temp for Healthy Growth 
Pruning
Early spring, Late winter
This fast-growing vine, known for its vivid scarlet flowers, benefits significantly from periodic pruning. Key techniques for scarlet clock vine include trimming back overgrown shoots and removing dead or weak stems to maintain shape and encourage healthy growth. The best time to prune scarlet clock vine is in late winter or early spring, before the onset of new growth. Regular pruning ensures a more prolific bloom and manages the plant's vigorous spreading habit, keeping it within desired boundaries.
Pruning techniques Dark blotch
Dark blotch is a fungal disease that affects Scarlet clock vine, leading to significant aesthetic and physiological damage. Marked by dark spots on foliage, it can severely limit the plant's photosynthetic capabilities and overall vigor.
Read More
Yellow edges
Yellow edges is a disease affecting Scarlet clock vine, characterized by the yellowing of leaf margins which can impede growth and aesthetics. The disease can reduce the ornamental value and overall vigor of Scarlet clock vine.
Read More
Plants Related to Scarlet clock vine
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Lanceleaf blumea
Lanceleaf blumea is a resilient herbaceous plant found in Asia's tropical and subtropical regions. It features narrow lance-shaped leaves and clusters of small yellow flowers on tall spikes, which protrude above the foliage. This wildflower thrives in open, disturbed soils and is known for its ability to grow in a variety of environmental conditions, often signaling fertile land. Its distinctive morphology is a common sight in rural landscapes.
Black calla
Also called the black calla lily, black calla (Arum palaestinum) is distinguished by its dark purple to black flower stalks and bowl-like sheaths that bloom in the spring. Though black calla is not a true lily, it still can still have toxic effects if consumed by humans, cats, dogs, or horses.
Giant Squill
Giant Squill is also sometimes called measles leaf because of the dark green spotting on its large leaves. In the spring and late summer, giant Squill also produces stalks of white flowers that begin blooming from the bottom of the stalk up.
Creeping peanut
Creeping peanut is a low-growing, sprawling perennial with a knack for colonizing open sandy soils. Its oval, hairy leaves and yellow, pea-like flowers are characteristic, showing its kinship with the peanut. Favoring a warm climate, creeping peanut's creeping stems root at the nodes, allowing it to spread effectively across its preferred habitat.
Indian acalypha
The foliage of the indian acalypha (Acalypha indica) grows wild in balmy areas around the equator. The foliage contains hydrocyanic acid, which is incredibly poisonous, so extreme caution should be had when handling this plant. It grows as a weed in the poor soils along roadsides and has little to no ornamental value in the landscape.
Wild stock-rose
Hibiscus calyphyllus (syn. Hibiscus calycinus Hibiscus chrysantha Hibiscus chrysanthus Hibiscus rockii) the lemonyellow rosemallow is a shrub from tropical Africa belonging to the genus Hibiscus. In 1883 this Hibiscus was offered for sale in England under the name Hibiscus chrysanthus with Port Natal Cape Colony (now South Africa) identified as the source. By 1891 the same Hibiscus was identified as Hibiscus chrysantha in the United States a practice which spring have continued into the 1930s and contributed to incorrect species identification. In 1892 the name Hibiscus calycinus was designated as the correct name for the species; but by 1894 the currently accepted name Hibiscus calyphyllus is found in association with Hibiscus calycinus. At the beginning of the 20th century this Hibiscus was sold as seeds in the United States under the name Hibiscus Giant Yellow. Because of the similarity of the flowers it is quite common to find Abelmoschus manihot confused with Hibiscus calyphyllus in the early 20th century gardening literature of the United States particularly in the area of cold tolerance. If the species identification is correct the 1903 report in The Flower Garden states that: "Giant Yellow is a beautiful canary yellow with crimson throat hardy as far north as St. Louis but safer in the cellar above that latitude" then Hibiscus calyphyllus spring have some degree of cold tolerance. St. Louis Missouri is in USDA Zone 6a but there are currently no reports of Hibiscus calyphyllus overwintering in USDA Zone 6a; it is known to overwinter successfully in USDA Zone 8a. Hibiscus calyphyllus grows to 1-1.8 meters (3–6 feet) tall. It has flowers which grow to 8–10 cm (3–4 in) wide with a yellow color and a brownish center. Unlike many African Hibiscus which are fall to late-fall bloomers Hibiscus calyphyllus is a summer bloomer which means it can be grown in many locations in North American and Europe and produce viable seeds which are easy to collect and germinate. If the seeds are started indoors early in winter or spring Hibiscus calyphyllus will bloom the first year. Hibiscus calyphyllus is a day-bloomer with the flowers opening several hours after sunrise and closing several hours before sunset. No hybrids of Hibiscus calyphyllus have been reported but Hibiscus syriacus and Hibiscus calyphyllus have identical diploid chromosome counts of 80. The plant is used in the construction of huts by the Maasai people of Kenya.
Mysore trumpetvine
If you’re going to try to grow mysore trumpetvine (Thunbergia mysorensis) at home, keep in mind that it’s a plant for warmer climates. Also, since it’s a climbing plant, you’ll need something sufficiently strong for it to clamber over.
Blue trumpet vine
Blue trumpet vine (Thunbergia grandiflora) is an evergreen vine native to China, India, and Mainland Southeast Asia. It is often cultivated as a houseplant in environments with temperate climates and widely naturalized. In Australia, it is considered to be a serious environmental weed.
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About
Care Guide
More Info
Pests & Diseases
Distribution
More About How-Tos
Related Plants
Scarlet clock vine
Thunbergia coccinea
Scarlet clock vine grows across a region of Asia centered around the Himalayas at elevations up to about 2000 m. Its vines produce hanging flowers that can vary in color from deep red to orange or yellow depending on the local temperature. Scarlet clock vine typically needs plenty of humidity to grow well.
Planting Time
All year round
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Care Guide for Scarlet clock vine
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Key Facts About Scarlet clock vine
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Attributes of Scarlet clock vine
Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Vine, Shrub
Planting Time
All year round
Plant Height
3 m to 9 m
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
35 cm
Flower Color
Red
Orange
Leaf type
Semi-evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃
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Scientific Classification of Scarlet clock vine
Phylum
Vascular plants Class
Dicotyledons Family
Acanthus Genus
Thunbergias Species
Scarlet clock vine 
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Common Pests & Diseases About Scarlet clock vine
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Common issues for Scarlet clock vine based on 10 million real cases
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Dark blotch
Dark blotch is a fungal disease that affects Scarlet clock vine, leading to significant aesthetic and physiological damage. Marked by dark spots on foliage, it can severely limit the plant's photosynthetic capabilities and overall vigor.
Learn More About the Dark blotch ![more]()
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Learn More About the Flower withering ![more]()
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More About the Brown spot ![more]()
Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Learn More About the Wilting after blooming ![more]()
Dark blotch
Overview
Symptom
Causes
Treatment
Prevention
Active Period
What is Dark blotch Disease on Scarlet clock vine?
Dark blotch is a fungal disease that affects Scarlet clock vine, leading to significant aesthetic and physiological damage. Marked by dark spots on foliage, it can severely limit the plant's photosynthetic capabilities and overall vigor.
Symptom Analysis
Dark blotch manifests as irregular dark spots or patches primarily on the leaves of Scarlet clock vine. These lesions hinder photosynthesis and can cause leaf discoloration, defoliation, and stunted growth.
What Causes Dark blotch Disease on Scarlet clock vine?
Fungal pathogens
Specific fungi that thrive in moist conditions are responsible for causing dark blotches on the leaves of Scarlet clock vine.
How to Treat Dark blotch Disease on Scarlet clock vine?
Non pesticide
Improve air circulation: Prune overly dense foliage to enhance airflow and reduce fungal infection opportunities.
Remove infected parts: Regularly inspect and promptly remove infected leaves or branches to prevent spread.
Pesticide
Use fungicides: Apply fungicides that are specifically effective against leaf-spotting fungi, following label instructions for dosages and application intervals.
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
- Wilted, droopy flowers
- Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
- Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
- Flowerhead shrink in size
- Petal color fades
- Yellowing leaves
- Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
- Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
- Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
- Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
- Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
- Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
- At first, flowers may look a little limp.
- Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
- Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
Solutions
- Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water.
- Water according to recommendations for each plant's species.
- Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too.
- Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants.
- Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Prevention
- Read up on moisture, light, and soil type preferences for each plant to avoid underwatering, incorrect light levels, or other conditions that can cause wilting blooms.
- Avoid re-potting during the flowering period. This causes additional stress on the plants because they need to repair root damage and adapt to the new micro-environment, all of which can result in wilting.
- One other potential cause is ethylene gas, a plant hormone related to ripening. Some fruits and vegetables emit ethylene, especially bananas. Apples, grapes, melons, avocados, and potatoes can also give it off, so keep flowering plants away from fresh produce.
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Distribution of Scarlet clock vine
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Habitat of Scarlet clock vine
Garden
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere
Distribution Map of Scarlet clock vine
Scarlet clock vine is a plant originally native to South Asia and parts of Southeast Asia. It has naturalized in several regions outside its native range, where it is also cultivated. Its presence spans from the Himalayan foothills to the Indochinese peninsula, establishing itself in diverse habitats within these major areas.
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info on Scarlet Clock Vine Growth and Care
Basic Care Guide
Common Pests & Diseases
Dark blotch
Dark blotch is a fungal disease that affects Scarlet clock vine, leading to significant aesthetic and physiological damage. Marked by dark spots on foliage, it can severely limit the plant's photosynthetic capabilities and overall vigor.
Yellow edges
Yellow edges is a disease affecting Scarlet clock vine, characterized by the yellowing of leaf margins which can impede growth and aesthetics. The disease can reduce the ornamental value and overall vigor of Scarlet clock vine.
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Lighting
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness. Essentials
Scarlet clock vine flourishes in generous amounts of sunlight, capable of withstanding areas with moderate sun exposure. In its native habitat, it thrives under the full day sun, promoting vigorous growth. Over-exposure can cause leaf scorching, while insufficient light stunts its progress, resulting in a frail plant.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
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Temperature
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care. Essentials
Scarlet clock vine originates from climates where temperatures usually range from 68 to 100 °F (20 to 38 ℃). These plants prefer warm conditions but can adjust as per the seasonal variations, provided the temperature doesn't drop below the said range.
Regional wintering strategies
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