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Northern Maidenhair Fern
Northern Maidenhair Fern
Northern Maidenhair Fern
Northern Maidenhair Fern
Northern Maidenhair Fern
Northern Maidenhair Fern
Northern Maidenhair Fern
Adiantum pedatum
Also known as : Five-fingered fern
The genus name of the northern Maidenhair Fern (*Adiantum pedatum*) comes from the Greek word 'adiantos', which means 'unwetted'. It is named for its water-repellent foliage. Meanwhile, 'pedatum' means 'cut like a bird's foot,' a reference to the look of its fronds. The plant is native to North America and Asia.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
4 to 9
more
care guide

Care Guide for Northern Maidenhair Fern

Fertilizing Care
Fertilizing Care
While northern Maidenhair Fern can thrive without fertilizer, extra nutrients can give your plant a boost. Apply a decaying organic fertilizer around the plant to supplement the soil; you can also feed it a water-soluble fertilizer once or twice a month during the growing season in spring and summer.
Details on Fertilizing Care Fertilizing Care
Soil Care
Soil Care
Clay, Chalky, Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
What Are the Lighting Requirements for Northern Maidenhair Fern?
What Are the Lighting Requirements for Northern Maidenhair Fern?
Partial sun, Full shade
Details on Sunlight Requirements What Are the Lighting Requirements for Northern Maidenhair Fern?
What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Northern Maidenhair Fern?
What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Northern Maidenhair Fern?
4 to 9
Details on Temperature What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Northern Maidenhair Fern?
What is the Best Time to Planting Northern Maidenhair Fern?
What is the Best Time to Planting Northern Maidenhair Fern?
Mid spring, Late spring, Summer, Early fall
Details on Planting Time What is the Best Time to Planting Northern Maidenhair Fern?
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Northern Maidenhair Fern
Water
Water
Twice per week
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
4 to 9
Planting Time
Planting Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Summer, Early fall
question

Questions About Northern Maidenhair Fern

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What should I do if I water my Northern Maidenhair Fern too much or too little?
Overwatered Northern Maidenhair Fern
Despite how much it loves water, it is possible to overwater the Northern Maidenhair Fern. This is most likely to happen if you leave your plant sitting in a pool of water or use a planter that doesn’t have drainage holes. Either of those conditions will be too wet and will prevent the roots from being able to take up nutrients and moisture. Too much moisture in the soil can also allow fungal or bacterial diseases to develop.
Wilted and yellow leaves are the initial symptoms of overwatering. Over time, the stems may droop and fall over, or begin to feel soft and mushy. However, be sure to check for other causes if you suspect your Northern Maidenhair Fern is overwatered, since other issues can look similar and it’s difficult to give this plant too much water.
Underwatered Northern Maidenhair Fern
Vigilance is required to keep this plant wet enough, unless you’re using a self-watering planter, meaning that many fern owners inadvertently let their plant get too dry now and then. In dry conditions, this plant can change in appearance seemingly overnight, from lush and green to brown and crispy.
In extreme cases, the plant may dry up so thoroughly that it seems there are no living fronds left. But it may still be possible to save the plant if some of the roots are still healthy. Cut off all of the dry and dead stems, then water thoroughly and return the plant to its usual location. Unless the roots are all dead, this plant can be surprisingly resilient and start putting out new fronds. It may take several months to grow back to the size it was before, but this is possible if you provide proper care in that time.
Read More more
How can I water my Northern Maidenhair Fern properly?
Your Northern Maidenhair Fern prefers consistently moist soil that mimics its native enironment, which could mean watering as often as every one or two days. This is a plant that should not be allowed to dry out. Once the top layer of soil begins to feel even slightly dry, it’s time to water again. And don’t just give it a few drops of water: soak the soil completely until water drains out from the bottom of the pot. After the excess water has drained out, dump it so the pot isn’t sitting in a puddle. This is the best method to ensure that soil never gets too dry.
Read More more
What should I consider when watering my Northern Maidenhair Fern?
The amount of humidity in the air around your Northern Maidenhair Fern will influence how often you need to water it. Higher humidity in the air means less frequent watering, as evaporation is slower. Keeping this plant near a heating or cooling vent will cause it to dry out quickly, so choose a location that is protected from any type of draft. They prefer dappled and indirect sunlight and temperatures between 55-80 degrees F (13-27 degrees C) meaning that keeping these ferns in a warm and sunny spot windowsill could cause them to get dehydrated quickly.
Rainwater or distilled water is great for this plant if you have access to it, although tap water in most places also works fine. Certain minerals and chemicals in tap water can cause brown leaf tips, especially since Northern Maidenhair Fern has very thin and delicate leaves.
Small pots can cause issues for Northern Maidenhair Fern , because they only hold a small amount of potting medium and can dry out more quickly. It is best to allow this plant more space in the pot than many other houseplants.
Consider using a self-watering planter for Northern Maidenhair Fern. This type of pot uses a wicking system that allows the soil to continuously soak up water from a central reservoir, meaning that the moisture level in the soil stays consistently moist. Not only does this type of pot keep you from having to constantly water your fern, but it is also quite beneficial for the roots to have a constant supply of water instead of going from dry to wet and then back again.
Read More more
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plant_info

Key Facts About Northern Maidenhair Fern

Attributes of Northern Maidenhair Fern

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Fern
Planting Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Summer, Early fall
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer
Plant Height
50 cm
Spread
50 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Leaf type
Deciduous
Growth Season
Spring, Summer
Growth Rate:Moderate
During its active growing seasons in Spring and Summer, northern Maidenhair Fern exhibits a moderate growth rate. This tempo influences its frond production, allowing for an orderly and balanced spread. The growth rate also optimally aligns with the photoperiod, enhancing overall plant health and resilience.

Symbolism

Discretion

Scientific Classification of Northern Maidenhair Fern

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Northern Maidenhair Fern

Common issues for Northern Maidenhair Fern based on 10 million real cases
Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
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Leaf rot
plant poor
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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Leaf scorch
plant poor
Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Overview
Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
  • Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
  • Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.
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distribution

Distribution of Northern Maidenhair Fern

Habitat of Northern Maidenhair Fern

Moist, cool, rich woods & shaded areas, especially northern exposures, with neither little nor too much moisture
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Northern Maidenhair Fern

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
habit
care_scenes

More Info on Northern Maidenhair Fern Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
Explore More
Lighting
Partial sun
For healthy growth, northern Maidenhair Fern necessitates scattered light and can withstand scarcely lit conditions. Originally flourishing in wooded areas, it's accustomed to variable, forest-filtered luminosity. Overexposure to sunshine may lead to sunburn, while inadequate light could make the fronds lethargic and sickly.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
-25 38 ℃
Northern Maidenhair Fern is native to environments with moderate temperarial fluctuations. It thrives in temperatures ranging from 41 to 95 °F (5 to 35 ℃). During excessive heat or cold seasons, creating a controlled indoor environment could help sustain its growth.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
1-2 feet
With its native habitat in moist woodlands, northern Maidenhair Fern thrives when transplanted during fall (S1) or early spring (S3), ensuring a relaxed adaptation before extreme weather. Find a shade-rich location, preferably with moist, well-draining soil. Remember, northern Maidenhair Fern does not tolerate dryness or direct sunlight. Happy transplanting!
Transplant Techniques
Feng shui direction
North
Northern Maidenhair Fern subtly increases the Feng Shui value of a space, encouraging a balanced and harmonious environment. Its delicate, lush green fonds can serve as a focal point for positive chi flow, enhancing prosperity and wellness. Positioned in the North sector, northern Maidenhair Fern aids in career growth, as the North is traditionally associated with water element in Feng Shui and the plant's natural affinity for water symbolizes adaptability required for professional success.
Fengshui Details
other_plant

Plants Related to Northern Maidenhair Fern

Honeyberry
Honeyberry
Honeyberry is a plant native to the Northern Hemisphere, and bears long, waxy fruits. These blue-colored fruits are edible, and their taste is described as a combination of blueberries and raspberries. This Lonicera caerulea produces fruits within the first year of planting, and thrives in colder climates.
Foxtail palm
Foxtail palm
Foxtail palm (Wodyetia bifurcata) got its name because of its exceedingly fluffy leaves that are vaguely reminiscent of a fox’s tail. Since this is a tropical plant, it thrives best in humidity and full sunlight. The species remained undiscovered by non-indigenous people until 1978, when an aboriginal Australian brought it to notice.
Dawn redwood
Dawn redwood
The dawn redwood is a tall deciduous tree used for landscaping in parks and neighborhoods. Growing to a height of 30 m, this sequoia is generally too large for private landscaping. The dawn redwood is one of the few actual deciduous conifers, with half inch needles that turn red and brown before falling in the autumn.
Crassula
Crassula
The crassula is so similar to the Red pagoda that they are often mistaken for each other. Compared to the Red pagoda, each crassula leaf is thicker and narrower, with the leaf surface rougher and leathery. The crassula is more likely to grow caespitose, and also grows faster than the Red pagoda. When the plant is in full glory, the whole of the plant takes on a crimson color.
Cholla cactus
Cholla cactus
The cholla cactus (Tephrocactus articulatus) is often called the Paper Spine cactus because its spines appear delicate and paper-like but are sharp and can easily pierce the skin. It can quickly reproduce itself from broken limbs or cuttings!
Bilberry
Bilberry
Bilberry (Vaccinium myrtillus) is a low-growing shrub indigenous to Eurasia. Its dark blueberries are edible and can be consumed raw or made into jams, jellies, and pies. In France and Italy, people use these berries as a flavorful base for liqueurs and desserts like sorbet.
Cape jasmine
Cape jasmine
Gardenia jasminoides is an evergreen shrub with unique, glossy evergreen leaves and stunning flowers. The sophisticated, matte white flowers are often used in bouquets. The exceptional beauty of this ornamental plant has made it a popular and highly appreciated plant amongst gardeners and horticulturalists.
Golden pothos
Golden pothos
The golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular houseplant that is commonly seen in Australia, Asia, and the West Indies. It goes by many nicknames, including "devil's ivy", because it is so hard to kill and can even grow in low light conditions. Golden pothos has poisonous sap, so it should be kept away from pets and children.
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About
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Related Plants
Northern Maidenhair Fern
Northern Maidenhair Fern
Northern Maidenhair Fern
Northern Maidenhair Fern
Northern Maidenhair Fern
Northern Maidenhair Fern
Northern Maidenhair Fern
Adiantum pedatum
Also known as: Five-fingered fern
The genus name of the northern Maidenhair Fern (*Adiantum pedatum*) comes from the Greek word 'adiantos', which means 'unwetted'. It is named for its water-repellent foliage. Meanwhile, 'pedatum' means 'cut like a bird's foot,' a reference to the look of its fronds. The plant is native to North America and Asia.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
4 to 9
more
question

Questions About Northern Maidenhair Fern

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What should I do if I water my Northern Maidenhair Fern too much or too little?
more
How can I water my Northern Maidenhair Fern properly?
more
What should I consider when watering my Northern Maidenhair Fern?
more
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Keep your plants happy and healthy with our guide to watering, lighting, feeding and more.
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close
plant_info

Key Facts About Northern Maidenhair Fern

Attributes of Northern Maidenhair Fern

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Fern
Planting Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Summer, Early fall
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer
Plant Height
50 cm
Spread
50 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Leaf type
Deciduous
Growth Season
Spring, Summer
Growth Rate:Moderate
During its active growing seasons in Spring and Summer, northern Maidenhair Fern exhibits a moderate growth rate. This tempo influences its frond production, allowing for an orderly and balanced spread. The growth rate also optimally aligns with the photoperiod, enhancing overall plant health and resilience.
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Symbolism

Discretion

Scientific Classification of Northern Maidenhair Fern

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Northern Maidenhair Fern

Common issues for Northern Maidenhair Fern based on 10 million real cases
Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Learn More About the Leaf rot more
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More About the Aged yellow and dry more
Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch Leaf scorch Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Learn More About the Leaf scorch more
icon
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close
Leaf rot
plant poor
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
  2. Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
  3. Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
  4. Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
  5. Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
  6. Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
  7. Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
  8. Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
close
Leaf scorch
plant poor
Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Overview
Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
  • Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
  • Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms.
  • Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves.
  • Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement.
  • Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation.
  • If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach.
  • If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry.
  • Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections.
  • If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Physiological leaf scorch is best avoided by making sure your plants have a healthy, functional root system and access to enough water. Water regularly, especially on the mornings of excessively hot, sunny days. Deep, infrequent irrigation is better than shallow, frequent irrigation.
  • Have your soil tested and apply the proper nutrients. Be sure to not over-apply fertilizers.
  • Make sure your plants’ roots have room to expand. Avoid compacted soil as well and avoid paving areas above the root zone. Do not till or disturb the soil where plant roots are growing.
  • Plant new trees and shrubs in the fall, so that they have the maximum amount of time to become established before the environmental stresses of the next summer.
  • Remove any dead or dying plant tissue that may harbor secondary infections.
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distribution

Distribution of Northern Maidenhair Fern

Habitat of Northern Maidenhair Fern

Moist, cool, rich woods & shaded areas, especially northern exposures, with neither little nor too much moisture
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Northern Maidenhair Fern

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
care_scenes

More Info on Northern Maidenhair Fern Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Plants Related to Northern Maidenhair Fern

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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Partial sun
Ideal
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Full shade
Tolerance
Less than 3 hours of sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
For healthy growth, northern Maidenhair Fern necessitates scattered light and can withstand scarcely lit conditions. Originally flourishing in wooded areas, it's accustomed to variable, forest-filtered luminosity. Overexposure to sunshine may lead to sunburn, while inadequate light could make the fronds lethargic and sickly.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Northern Maidenhair Fern thrives in shady environments and can tolerate low light. Although symptoms of light deficiency may not be readily apparent, it's important to provide adequate light to ensure optimal growth and health.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Northern Maidenhair Fern may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Northern Maidenhair Fern enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To optimize plant growth, shift them to increasingly sunnier spots each week until they receive 3-6 hours of direct sunlight daily, enabling gradual adaptation to changing light conditions.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Northern Maidenhair Fern prefers shade and is sensitive to direct sunlight. Due to their intolerance to sun exposure, they easily develop symptoms of sunburn, making proper shading essential for their well-being.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Northern Maidenhair Fern is native to environments with moderate temperarial fluctuations. It thrives in temperatures ranging from 41 to 95 °F (5 to 35 ℃). During excessive heat or cold seasons, creating a controlled indoor environment could help sustain its growth.
Regional wintering strategies
Northern Maidenhair Fern has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by covering the plant with materials such as soil or straw. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Northern Maidenhair Fern is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, there may be a decrease in sprouting or even no sprouting during springtime.
Solutions
In spring, remove any parts that have failed to sprout.
High Temperature
During summer, Northern Maidenhair Fern should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, prone to curling, and more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Northern Maidenhair Fern?
With its native habitat in moist woodlands, northern Maidenhair Fern thrives when transplanted during fall (S1) or early spring (S3), ensuring a relaxed adaptation before extreme weather. Find a shade-rich location, preferably with moist, well-draining soil. Remember, northern Maidenhair Fern does not tolerate dryness or direct sunlight. Happy transplanting!
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Northern Maidenhair Fern?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Northern Maidenhair Fern?
Spring or early fall is the prime time to transplant northern Maidenhair Fern. The mild conditions during these periods foster root growth, ensuring a healthier plant. When northern Maidenhair Fern is planted during this optimal season, it establishes quicker, resulting in a lush and vibrant fern in your garden.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Northern Maidenhair Fern Plants?
When transplanting northern Maidenhair Fern, make sure to space them approximately 1-2 feet (30-60 cm) apart. This spacing is vital for the growth and spread of this beautiful fern. Remember, happy plants need room to thrive!
What is the Best Soil Mix for Northern Maidenhair Fern Transplanting?
The perfect soil for northern Maidenhair Fern should be rich, moist and well-drained. Start by tilling the soil to a depth of about 12 inches (30 cm). Mix in some compost or aged manure, which will act as an excellent base fertilizer and provide essential nutrients.
Where Should You Relocate Your Northern Maidenhair Fern?
Northern Maidenhair Fern prefers partial to full shade. Choose a location that remains mostly shady throughout the day, as strong sunlight can harm its delicate fronds. A sunlit morning with afternoon shade could be the ideal spot for your new transplant!
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Northern Maidenhair Fern?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the soil and plant.
Gardening Spade or Shovel
To safely dig up the plant without harming the root system.
Garden Fork
Great for breaking up soil and aerating the transplant hole.
Watering Can or Hose
To moisten the soil before and after transplanting northern Maidenhair Fern
Gardening Trowel
Handy for small digging tasks and creating holes for transplanting.
Wheelbarrow
Used to transport the plant and any soil or compost to your selected transplanting location.
Hand Pruner or Secateurs
Useful for pruning any dead or damaged fronds or stems.
Rooting Hormone
Aids in root development post-transplant, although not absolutely necessary for a hardy plant like northern Maidenhair Fern.
How Do You Remove Northern Maidenhair Fern from the Soil?
From Ground: Start by watering the northern Maidenhair Fern plant to dampen the soil, making excavation easier. Use a spade or shovel to dig around the plant, leaving ample room to avoid damaging the roots. Work the spade under the root ball to lift the plant, ensuring you maintain as much of the root system as possible.
From Pot: Water the northern Maidenhair Fern plant thoroughly, then tilt the pot to the side and gently tap it to loosen the soil from the sides. Support the plant's stem and root ball with your hand while carefully sliding it out of the pot. If the plant is resistant, you might need to tap a bit harder or use a knife to slice through compacted soil without harming the roots.
From Seedling Tray: Moisten the soil in the tray to facilitate removal. Grasp the northern Maidenhair Fern seedling by its leaves (not by the stem) and use a spoon, dibber, or your fingers to loosen the soil around the roots. Gently lift the seedling from the tray, making sure to keep as much soil around the roots as possible.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Northern Maidenhair Fern
Step1 Digging the Hole
Firstly, make sure the hole you dig is twice as wide and deep as the root ball of northern Maidenhair Fern. Loosen the soil in the hole with a garden fork, which will allow the roots to grow easily
Step2 Positioning
Place the northern Maidenhair Fern in the hole, ensuring that the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. This helps the plant to access water and nutrients effectively.
Step3 Backfilling
Carefully backfill the hole with the soil, making sure there are no air pockets, which can cause the roots to dry out. Compact the soil lightly with your hand but avoid compressing it overly.
Step4 Watering
Once transplanted, water northern Maidenhair Fern thoroughly. This helps to settle the soil. If the soil level drops, add more soil as needed. Make sure not to overwater.
Step5 Monitoring
Observe the plant regularly over the next few weeks and water as necessary to keep the soil uniformly moist, but not waterlogged.
How Do You Care For Northern Maidenhair Fern After Transplanting?
Pruning
Prune any brown or yellow leaves as these are likely the result of transplant shock and removing them may help the northern Maidenhair Fern plant recover faster.
Temperature
Northern Maidenhair Fern prefers mild temperatures, so protect it from extreme heat or cold, which could stress the plant further.
Feeding
Wait at least a month before fertilizing, as newly transplanted plants need time to adjust to their new environment before they can take up additional nutrients.
Attention
Keep an eye on the plant, especially for the first few weeks. If you see drooping, discolored, or slow-growing leaves, it may be a sign of transplant shock. Keep the environment stable and keep faith; northern Maidenhair Fern is a robust plant and generally rebounds quickly.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Northern Maidenhair Fern Transplantation.
What is the best time to transplant northern Maidenhair Fern?
The sweet spot for moving northern Maidenhair Fern is between early spring to late summer. This allows the plants to firmly establish before the cold season kicks in.
How far apart should I place northern Maidenhair Fern during transplanting?
Grant your northern Maidenhair Fern some personal space -- about 1 to 2 feet (0.3 to 0.6 m) apart from others. This ensures proper aeration and growth.
What's the best way to prep the soil before transplanting northern Maidenhair Fern?
Enrich the soil beforehand with organic compost, ensuring it is loose and well-draining. A soil pH of 4.0-7.0 is optimal for northern Maidenhair Fern.
Should I water northern Maidenhair Fern immediately after transplanting?
Absolutely! Treat northern Maidenhair Fern to a good drink post-transplant to help it settle into its new home and recover from any root damage.
Why are the leaves of my transplanted northern Maidenhair Fern turning brown?
Brown leaves after transplanting could indicate under-watering or sunburn. Northern Maidenhair Fern prefers semi-shade. Check moisture levels and adjust watering and location as necessary.
How do I prevent root rot when transplanting northern Maidenhair Fern?
Avoid over watering. Ensure the transplanted northern Maidenhair Fern is in well-draining soil, and check for standing water. If you find any, adjust its location immediately.
What should I do if my transplanted northern Maidenhair Fern isn’t growing?
If your northern Maidenhair Fern seems stunted, make sure it's getting enough light and nutrients, but not too much direct sun. Improving soil conditions might also help.
Why are the tips of my northern Maidenhair Fern leaves drying up post-transplant?
This may be due to low air humidity. Try to maintain a constant humid atmosphere around northern Maidenhair Fern, perhaps moving it to a bathroom or using a humidifier.
My transplanted northern Maidenhair Fern has yellow leaves, what should I do?
Yellow leaves can be a sign of overwatering. Cut back on watering and ensure the soil drains well to retain optimum moisture.
How can I ensure my northern Maidenhair Fern recovers quickly after transplanting?
Consistent care is key. Provide sufficient water, but avoid overwatering. Protect northern Maidenhair Fern from intense midday sun, but ensure it gets plenty of morning and evening light.
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