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Add to My Garden Mexican fence post cactus
Cereus marginatus
Also known as: Central Mexico organ pipe, Central Mexico pipe organ, Organ pipe
Mexican fence post cactus (Cereus marginatus) is a cactus native to Central Mexico where it is often cultivated as a living fence. This species is planted as a barrier so frequently throughout Mexico that it is also called the Mexican fence post cactus. Mexican fence post cactus grows best in well-drained, rocky soil.
Water
Once per month
Sunlight
Full sun
Care Guide for Mexican fence post cactus
Drought-tolerant. Allow the soil to dry completely between watering.
Fertilization once every 2-3 months during the growing season.
Full sun, Partial sun
10 to 12
All year around
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Mexican fence post cactus
Water
Once per month
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
10 to 12
Planting Time
All year around
Download and print this plant care card and attach it to your plants
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Mexican fence post cactus
Water
Once per month
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
10 to 12
Planting Time
All year around
Download
Mexican fence post cactus
Water
Once per month
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
10 to 12
Planting Time
All year around
Download
Questions About Mexican fence post cactus
Watering 
Sunlight 
Temperature 
Fertilizing What should I do if I water my Mexican fence post cactus too much or too little?
Underwatered Mexican fence post cactus
Mexican fence post cactus and other succulents can endure long periods without water, so it’s unusual to find one of these suffering from underwatering. But, if you somehow forgot about your plant and neglected to water it for a month or more, you’ll probably find your Mexican fence post cactus looking thirsty or with some leaf damage from lack of watering.
It is very easy to identify an underwatered Mexican fence post cactus. The leaves will look shriveled, dry, and flat. Some may have dried up completely, turned brown and crispy, or dropped off the plant, starting with the lower leaves and moving upward as the dry conditions continue. And of course, the soil will be completely dried out.
If your Mexican fence post cactus is thirsty and underwatered, give it plenty of water as soon as possible. Submerging the pot entirely in water for about 5-10 minutes is a good way to make sure the soil and plant are rehydrated properly. When you feel a sense of moisture on the surface of the soil with your finger, it means the watering is done properly. If there are dried out leaves still attached, go ahead and pluck them off to make room for new growth.
Overwatered Mexican fence post cactus
Overwatering is dangerous to Mexican fence post cactus and can be fatal to your plant if you don’t remedy the situation. Too much moisture over time leads to root rot, which prevents the roots from being able to absorb nutrients and water from the soil. Root rot occurs when wet conditions allow fungi and bacteria to flourish in the soil and feed on roots. When you find that it's overwatered, you'd better change the growing conditions, place it somewhere with more air ventilation and adjust water frequency, for example.
The symptoms of overwatering are yellow, swollen, and translucent leaves that may even burst open from being over-full with water. If the problem continues without being treated, leaves might turn brown or black, and fall off the plant at the slightest touch. Be sure to check the soil to determine if overwatering is the culprit, as some other issues can cause similar symptoms.
It’s a bit difficult (but not impossible) to save an overwatered plant. The key is catching it early before a lot of damage has occurred. If the roots become rotten, it is likely to kill the entire plant. If you suspect you have overwatered your Mexican fence post cactus, the first step is to remove it from its pot and check the roots and soil.
After removing the plant from its pot, gently remove wet soil from around the roots and then rinse them clean in room-temperature water. This helps with removing fungus that might be lurking in the soil and allows you to get a better sense of how healthy the roots are. If your plant has already developed root rot, you will see roots that are dark brown or black, soft, mushy, or slimy.
If the majority of the roots are already affected by root rot, it may not be possible to save the plant. In this case, it is best to remove any healthy leaves and try to use these to propagate a new Mexican fence post cactus. Luckily, this plant is easy to propagate even from a single leaf. If, on the other hand, only a portion of the roots have succumbed to rot and other healthy roots still remain, there is a chance it can be saved.
Use a sterilized cutting tool to remove any unhealthy-looking roots. Once you're left with only the firm, pale roots, it’s a good idea to dip them in a fungicide to kill off any remaining spores. After that you can repot your Mexican fence post cactus in fresh, free-draining potting soil. While this does not always work to save a succulent with root rot, in most cases this plant will be able to make a full recovery and will put out new growth starting in the next growing season.
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How often should I water my Mexican fence post cactus?
There’s not a hard-and-fast rule for how often to water Mexican fence post cactus. The best way to determine this is to check the soil and only water when it’s bone dry. You can either stick your finger in the pot or use a moisture meter to check the soil below the surface. When you plant it in a deep pot, you can do this with a stick or chopstick. If it feels even a little bit moist, wait a few days and check it again.
Most people will need to water Mexican fence post cactus about every two weeks in summer and once a month in winter, but there are several factors that can change the frequency. The section below lists some considerations that can help you to determine how often to water.
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What should I consider when watering my Mexican fence post cactus?
There are several environmental conditions that will affect how your Mexican fence post cactus needs to be watered, including the container size, soil type, temperature, and humidity.
First off, the container and soil you use will determine how often to water and how much water to use each time. Be sure you use a container with plenty of drainage holes in the bottom so extra water can escape the pot. A small container has less room for soil, meaning it won’t hold as much moisture, while a larger pot will stay wet longer and need to be watered less often. It’s important not to keep your Mexican fence post cactus in an oversized pot as this can easily lead to overwatering. When repotting, move to just one size larger than the current container. A shallow container works better than a deep one, since Mexican fence post cactus has shallow root systems.
Mexican fence post cactus will need to be watered less often in winter and more often in the active growing season in spring and autumn. During the winter, growth slows down considerably and the plant isn’t using much energy or water. There is less water lost to evaporation in cooler winter air, meaning that soil stays wet for much longer than it would in the summer.
This also applies to the general climate around your home. If you live in a humid location with a lot of rain, you will need to water less often than if you live in a dry, arid climate. Remember that conditions at the same geographic location can vary significantly with the season and the use of indoor heating and air conditioning.
Outdoor Planting
If Mexican fence post cactus is planted in the ground, after establishing a root system, it shouldn’t need supplemental water beyond what it receives through precipitation and dew. But if there is a long dry period, you may want to water occasionally. In other areas where Mexican fence post cactus can only be grown in a container, this plant can be moved outside in the spring and summer when the temperature is proper and then brought back inside when temperatures start to drop. A potted Mexican fence post cactus kept outside usually needs more water than the same plant kept indoors, because there is a lot more sun exposure even on a shaded porch.
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How to water Mexican fence post cactus?
The best way to water Mexican fence post cactus is to soak it thoroughly and then allow it to dry out before it gets watered again. Since this plant is somewhat drought tolerant, you can let it get quite dry before watering again. It is always better to give this type of plant too little water over too much.
When you water, make sure the soil gets thoroughly soaked throughout the whole pot. Don’t pour the water in just one spot, but rather try to go around the whole rim of the planter to be sure that it has a chance to get wet on all sides of the plant. The correct amount of water will depend on the size of your container and how much water your soil absorbs. Give your Mexican fence post cactus enough water that it drains out from the drainage holes and then (ideally) leave the drained water in the saucer for about 20-30 minutes to absorb into dry pockets of soil. After that, discard any excess water that’s still in the saucer to avoid the soil getting waterlogged.
Bottom-watering is also an excellent method for the Mexican fence post cactus, as you can be sure that the soil gets thoroughly moistened. This process involves placing the pot into a saucer of water and allowing the soil to absorb moisture through the drainage holes. You will know that the soil has absorbed enough water when the top layer is moist. This takes a bit more time than top-watering, but is almost foolproof in getting an even distribution of water throughout the pot.
The original habitat of Mexican fence post cactus is relatively dry with little rain, but when it rains, the soil will be thoroughly moistened. So you can mimic this situation by bottom-watering your plant when the soil is totally dry. Deep soil bathing is better than frequent light watering for Mexican fence post cactus.
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Explore 5 of plant how-tos on Feng shui direction, Water, Lighting, Temperature, Transplant, etc.
Feng shui direction
Northeast
Mexican fence post cactus has certain Feng Shui suitability due to its upright, columnar growth habit. It symbolically communicates steadfastness, resilience, and the ability to grow regardless of circumstances. It's particularly favorable facing Northeast, where earth energies abound. This can bring balance and stimulate this plant's potential, in attunement with the Feng Shui principles. However, this is subjective, depending on individual interpretation and placement within one's space.
Water
Once per month
The mexican fence post cactus prefers a dry environment, as it originates from arid habitats. Watering requirements are minimal; allow the soil to dry completely between waterings. During cooler months, reduce watering as the plant goes dormant. Avoid over-watering to prevent root rot.
Lighting
Full sun
The Mexican fence post cactus, mexican fence post cactus, thrives best in plentiful sun exposure, mirroring its native desert habitat where intense luminosity is common. While mexican fence post cactus appreciates a full offering of sun, it is flexible enough to manage in conditions with light that is less abundant. Both excessive or scarce light may impact its growth and overall health, causing potential stress or discoloration.
Temperature
15 to 35 ℃
The mexican fence post cactus requires a native growth environment with temperatures ranging from 68 to 100.4 ℉ (20 to 38 ℃). It prefers warm temperatures and should be kept in a location with temperatures between 70 and 100 ℉ (21 to 38 ℃) during the growing season. During the winter months, it is recommended to lower the temperature to around 50 to 60 ℉ (10 to 15.6 ℃) to simulate its native habitat.
Transplant
2-3 feet
The ideal season for transplanting mexican fence post cactus is early summer to mid-summer or late fall to late winter, as it ensures optimum growth. Choose a location with well-draining soil and ample sunlight. When transplanting, avoid excessive root disturbance for a successful transition.
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Mexican fence post cactus based on 10 million real cases
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do. Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible. Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots. Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized. Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium. Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water. For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
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Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
- Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
- If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
- Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
- Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
- Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
- Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
- Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.
Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
- Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
- Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
- Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
- Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.
Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.
Solutions
There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering:
- Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost.
- Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Prevention
Preventative measures include:
- Ensuring adequate spacing between plants or trees.
- Staking plants that are prone to tumbling to prevent moisture or humidity build up.
- Prune correctly so that there is adequate air movement and remove any dead or diseased branches that may carry spores.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing fallen material and destroying it as soon as possible.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
- Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
- Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
- Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
- Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
- Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
- Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
- Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
- Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
- Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
- Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
- Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
- Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
- Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
- Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
- Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
- Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
- Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
- Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
- Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
- There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
- All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
Solutions
Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed.
- Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn.
- Introduce appropriate artificial lighting.
- Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Prevention
To avoid etiolation, provide an adequate amount of light from the beginning.
- Choose a location that matches each plant's ideal light needs. Many indoor plants do best in or near a south-facing window, which will provide the longest hours of sunlight. Flowering plants and those with colored leaves typically need more light than purely-green plants, as photosynthesis occurs in the green portions of leaves.
- Select plants with light needs that match a location's conditions. Some cultivars and varieties require less light than others.
- Use a grow light. Darker locations may require artificial illumination. A grow light may also become more necessary during winter, when sunlit hours are at their shortest.
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Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Stem rot is a serious disease and can affect many different types of plants. it can be particularly prevalent when the temperature of the soil is over 16 ℃ and there's a lot of moisture in the soil. This could be from unusually heavy rainfalls or too much irrigation. Once stem rot sets in, it's very difficult to get rid of the disease and most affected plants will have to be discarded. This is especially the case for vegetables, herbs, and other herbaceous plants that have soft stems. This is why it's important to ensure that the soil used for growing these plants is well-drained and that overwatering is avoided. Using good cultural practices also help in curbing these types of fungal diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Plants that have been affected by stem rot will first display a yellowing of the lower leaves. This is followed by obvious wilting and stunted growth.
If the stem of the affected plant is examined closely, there will be some dark discolorations starting near the base and moving upward. If the roots of affected plants are examined, they will appear dark and mushy instead of white and healthy-looking. Eventually, the entire plant will wilt and die.
Disease Cause
Stem rot is caused by a variety of soil-borne fungus pathogens. The type of fungus depends on the species of plant that is affected. Two fungi responsible for stem rot are Rhizoctonia and Fusarium. These fungal pathogens live in soil and migrate to the plant when conditions are optimum. This includes warm, humid weather and excessive soil moisture. Commonly, vegetable seedlings are affected by these fungi.
Sclerotinia sclerotiorum is another fungus that causes stem rot in plants. This fungus has a host range of over 350 different species of plants. Plants most susceptible to this fungus include many vegetable varieties such as cucumbers, beans, cilantro, carrots, cabbage, melons, lettuce, peas, onions, tomatoes, pumpkins, and squash. This fungus can produce different symptoms in different species. In some cases, the fungus causes irregular spots on stems and other plant material that appear water-soaked. On other plant species, the fungus appears as dry lesions that grow and girdle the stem of the plant.
The third type of fungus that causes stem rot is Phytophthora capsici. Plants that belong to the cucumber family are most susceptible to this fungal infection. This fungus manifests as water-soaked lesions on the stems that then turn brown and girdle the stem.
All of these fungal pathogens are transmitted to the plant by water splashing from the soil up onto the plant. That's because the fungal spores live in the soil where they wait for the right conditions to infect the plants.
Solutions
If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do.
- Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible.
- Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots.
- Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized.
- Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium.
- Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water.
For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
Prevention
For outdoor gardens:
- Raking the garden thoroughly in the springtime will help to cut down on pathogens that may be living in the soil.
- Using a copper fungicide on plants in the springtime will cut down on fungal growth and prevent the spread of infection.
- Placing a heavy layer of mulch on top of the soil will also prevent pathogens from splashing up onto the stems of plants.
- Place plants at the recommended spacing to encourage better air flow between them.
- Water plants at the base instead of overhead to prevent excessive moisture on foliage.
For indoor plants:
- Avoid overwatering houseplants and ensure the roots do not sit in water.
- Make sure that indoor plants receive adequate air circulation and light.
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More Info
Plant Type
Succulent, Shrub
Flower Color
Pink
Red
Bloom Time
Summer
Leaf Color
Green
Symbolism
Endurance
Scientific Classification
Phylum
Vascular plants Class
Dicotyledons Order
Pinks, cacti, and allies Family
Cactuses Genus
Cereus Species
Mexican fence post cactus 
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Add to My Garden Mexican fence post cactus
Cereus marginatus
Also known as: Central Mexico organ pipe, Central Mexico pipe organ, Organ pipe
Mexican fence post cactus (Cereus marginatus) is a cactus native to Central Mexico where it is often cultivated as a living fence. This species is planted as a barrier so frequently throughout Mexico that it is also called the Mexican fence post cactus. Mexican fence post cactus grows best in well-drained, rocky soil.
Water
Once per month
Sunlight
Full sun
Care Guide for Mexican fence post cactus
Water
Drought-tolerant. Allow the soil to dry completely between watering.
Fertilization
Fertilization once every 2-3 months during the growing season.
Sunlight
Full sun, Partial sun
Hardiness Zones
10 to 12
Planting Time
All year around
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Questions About Mexican fence post cactus
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Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Mexican fence post cactus based on 10 million real cases
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Learn More ![more]()
Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Learn More ![more]()
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
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Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Learn More ![more]()
Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do. Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible. Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots. Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized. Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium. Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water. For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
Learn More ![more]()
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Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
- Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
- If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
- Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
- Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
- Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
- Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
- Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.
Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
- Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
- Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
- Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
- Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.
Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.
Solutions
There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering:
- Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost.
- Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Prevention
Preventative measures include:
- Ensuring adequate spacing between plants or trees.
- Staking plants that are prone to tumbling to prevent moisture or humidity build up.
- Prune correctly so that there is adequate air movement and remove any dead or diseased branches that may carry spores.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing fallen material and destroying it as soon as possible.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
- Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
- Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
- Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
- Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
- Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
- Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
- Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
- Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
- Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
- Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
- Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
- Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
- Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
- Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
- Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
- Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
- Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
- Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
- Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
- There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
- All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
Solutions
Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed.
- Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn.
- Introduce appropriate artificial lighting.
- Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Prevention
To avoid etiolation, provide an adequate amount of light from the beginning.
- Choose a location that matches each plant's ideal light needs. Many indoor plants do best in or near a south-facing window, which will provide the longest hours of sunlight. Flowering plants and those with colored leaves typically need more light than purely-green plants, as photosynthesis occurs in the green portions of leaves.
- Select plants with light needs that match a location's conditions. Some cultivars and varieties require less light than others.
- Use a grow light. Darker locations may require artificial illumination. A grow light may also become more necessary during winter, when sunlit hours are at their shortest.
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Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Stem rot is a serious disease and can affect many different types of plants. it can be particularly prevalent when the temperature of the soil is over 16 ℃ and there's a lot of moisture in the soil. This could be from unusually heavy rainfalls or too much irrigation. Once stem rot sets in, it's very difficult to get rid of the disease and most affected plants will have to be discarded. This is especially the case for vegetables, herbs, and other herbaceous plants that have soft stems. This is why it's important to ensure that the soil used for growing these plants is well-drained and that overwatering is avoided. Using good cultural practices also help in curbing these types of fungal diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Plants that have been affected by stem rot will first display a yellowing of the lower leaves. This is followed by obvious wilting and stunted growth.
If the stem of the affected plant is examined closely, there will be some dark discolorations starting near the base and moving upward. If the roots of affected plants are examined, they will appear dark and mushy instead of white and healthy-looking. Eventually, the entire plant will wilt and die.
Disease Cause
Stem rot is caused by a variety of soil-borne fungus pathogens. The type of fungus depends on the species of plant that is affected. Two fungi responsible for stem rot are Rhizoctonia and Fusarium. These fungal pathogens live in soil and migrate to the plant when conditions are optimum. This includes warm, humid weather and excessive soil moisture. Commonly, vegetable seedlings are affected by these fungi.
Sclerotinia sclerotiorum is another fungus that causes stem rot in plants. This fungus has a host range of over 350 different species of plants. Plants most susceptible to this fungus include many vegetable varieties such as cucumbers, beans, cilantro, carrots, cabbage, melons, lettuce, peas, onions, tomatoes, pumpkins, and squash. This fungus can produce different symptoms in different species. In some cases, the fungus causes irregular spots on stems and other plant material that appear water-soaked. On other plant species, the fungus appears as dry lesions that grow and girdle the stem of the plant.
The third type of fungus that causes stem rot is Phytophthora capsici. Plants that belong to the cucumber family are most susceptible to this fungal infection. This fungus manifests as water-soaked lesions on the stems that then turn brown and girdle the stem.
All of these fungal pathogens are transmitted to the plant by water splashing from the soil up onto the plant. That's because the fungal spores live in the soil where they wait for the right conditions to infect the plants.
Solutions
If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do.
- Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible.
- Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots.
- Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized.
- Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium.
- Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water.
For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
Prevention
For outdoor gardens:
- Raking the garden thoroughly in the springtime will help to cut down on pathogens that may be living in the soil.
- Using a copper fungicide on plants in the springtime will cut down on fungal growth and prevent the spread of infection.
- Placing a heavy layer of mulch on top of the soil will also prevent pathogens from splashing up onto the stems of plants.
- Place plants at the recommended spacing to encourage better air flow between them.
- Water plants at the base instead of overhead to prevent excessive moisture on foliage.
For indoor plants:
- Avoid overwatering houseplants and ensure the roots do not sit in water.
- Make sure that indoor plants receive adequate air circulation and light.
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More Info
Plant Type
Succulent, Shrub
Flower Color
Pink
Red
Bloom Time
Summer
Leaf Color
Green
Symbolism
Endurance
Scientific Classification
Phylum
Vascular plants Class
Dicotyledons Order
Pinks, cacti, and allies Family
Cactuses Genus
Cereus Species
Mexican fence post cactus 
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Water
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor potted
In the ground
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Essentials
The mexican fence post cactus prefers a dry environment, as it originates from arid habitats. Watering requirements are minimal; allow the soil to dry completely between waterings. During cooler months, reduce watering as the plant goes dormant. Avoid over-watering to prevent root rot.
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Spring
Summer
Autumn
Winter
Morning
Noonday
Evening
Morning watering can reduce the risk of fungal growth. Requirements
Once per month
Watering Frequency
Smart Seasonal Watering
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Just like people, each plant has its own preferences and needs. Devote time to understanding your plants so you can nurture them properly. Observe your plants attentively, learning from their growth patterns, and becoming more in tune with their needs as you grow together. Keep a watchful eye on new plants and seedlings, as they are sensitive to both overwatering and underwatering. Shower them with gentle love and attention, fostering their growth and strength. Let the rhythm of your local climate guide your watering habits, adapting your schedule to the changing weather and the needs of your plants. Amount and Approach
Watering from the soil
1. Gradually pour water to the soil from above.
2. Stop watering your plant once water begins to flow out of the drainage holes in the pot.
3. Allow it to rest for 1 minute, then discard any water remaining in the tray, making sure your plant is not sitting in the water.
Avoid watering the leaves or flowers. Use a watering can with a long spout when watering to reduce bending and exertion, and ease your fatigue. Watering from the bottom
1. Fill the tray with water, ensure that the soil makes contact with the water.
2. Let it rest for 10 minutes.
3. Drain excess water from the tray if the soil is uniformly damp.
4. Watering more to the tray if the soil remains dry.
5. Allow it to sit for an additional 20 minutes before draining any excess water.
Avoid watering the leaves or flowers. Use a watering can with a long spout when watering to reduce bending and exertion, and ease your fatigue. Soaking the water
1. Select a location for soaking your plants, such as a tray or bathtub.
2. Pour a few centimeters of fresh water into the bottom of your chosen container.
3. Soaking your plant pots within the water, allowing them to absorb moisture for 1 hour.
4. Remove the plants from the water and let them dry.
Avoid watering the leaves or flowers. Use a watering can with a long spout when watering to reduce bending and exertion, and ease your fatigue. For Mexican fence post cactus, outdoor watering can be done using the method of sprinkling. It is a simple and direct approach. It involves pouring water onto the soil around the plant, allowing the water to naturally seep into the root zone. Typically, containers such as watering cans, buckets, or watering jugs are used for sprinkling. Depending on the size of the plant, usually, 1-2 gallons of water are required to ensure the soil around the roots is thoroughly moistened.
Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Overwatering can easily lead to disease symptoms in Mexican fence post cactus, as it has evolved mechanisms to survive drought conditions. For instance, the plant stores water in its tissues, closes its stomata, and reduces water loss. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, brown or black spots, leaf rot...
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Brown or black spots
Excessive watering can damage the plant's root system, making it vulnerable to fungal infections. The plant may develop dark brown to black spots that spread upwards from the lower leaves which are usually the first to be affected.
Leaf rot
Overwatering can cause the leaves to become waterlogged, leading to rotting when the environment is humid.
Soft or mushy stems
Excess water can cause stems to become soft and mushy, as the cells become waterlogged and lose their structural integrity.
Root rot
Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Increased susceptibility diseases
Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
For Mexican fence post cactus, it is not prone to experiencing plant health issues due to lack of watering. However, it is possible to suffer from dehydration if watering is consistently forgotten for an extended period. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, yellowing leaves, root damage...
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Wilting
Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Yellowing leaves
The leaves may begin to yellow or develop dry tips as a result of water stress and reduced nutrient uptake.
Root damage
Prolonged underwatering can cause root damage, making it difficult for the plant to absorb water even when it is available.
Slow growth
The plant may exhibit delayed development or slow growth due to not receiving enough water to support its growth.
Increased susceptibility to pests and diseases
Underwatered plants may become more susceptible to pests and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.
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Lighting
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness. Essentials
The Mexican fence post cactus, mexican fence post cactus, thrives best in plentiful sun exposure, mirroring its native desert habitat where intense luminosity is common. While mexican fence post cactus appreciates a full offering of sun, it is flexible enough to manage in conditions with light that is less abundant. Both excessive or scarce light may impact its growth and overall health, causing potential stress or discoloration.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Mexican fence post cactus is a beloved choice for indoor gardening, and they require strong light to thrive. However, when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting, they may develop symptoms of light deficiency.
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Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your mexican fence post cactus may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Slower or no new growth
Mexican fence post cactus enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Mexican fence post cactus require strong light to thrive, and some are remarkably resilient to sun exposure, rarely suffering from sunburn.
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Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care. Essentials
The mexican fence post cactus requires a native growth environment with temperatures ranging from 68 to 100.4 ℉ (20 to 38 ℃). It prefers warm temperatures and should be kept in a location with temperatures between 70 and 100 ℉ (21 to 38 ℃) during the growing season. During the winter months, it is recommended to lower the temperature to around 50 to 60 ℉ (10 to 15.6 ℃) to simulate its native habitat.
Regional wintering strategies
Mexican fence post cactus is a heat-loving plant that gradually stops growing and enters a dormant state during the winter. When the outdoor temperature drops below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it should be moved indoors for cultivation. Choose a location near a south-facing window to provide as much sunlight as possible. If there is insufficient natural light, supplemental lighting can be used. When the temperature falls below {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}, the plant's growth slows down, and watering should be reduced or stopped to prevent root rot. For Mexican fence post cactus grown outdoors, watering should be completely halted during low temperatures. If feasible, you can set up a temporary greenhouse for insulation or use materials such as plastic film or fabric to wrap the plant during cold temperatures.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Mexican fence post cactus thrives in high temperatures and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It grows best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the plant may become weak, wilt, and be prone to root rot. In cases of mild frost damage, there may not be any initial symptoms, but after a week, the plant will gradually wither.
Solutions
Trim off the frostbitten areas, paying attention to whether the roots have rotted. If the roots have rotted, they need to be cut off, and the plant can be propagated through cuttings. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment and place the plant near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. If there is insufficient light, you can use supplemental lighting.
High Temperature
During summer, Mexican fence post cactus should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant's growth will cease, it will experience water loss, wilting, and becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Remove the sunburned and rotten parts. Shield the plant from afternoon sunlight until it recovers and starts growing again. For plants with root rot, stop watering until new roots begin to emerge.
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Transplant
How to Successfully Transplant Mexican fence post cactus?
The ideal season for transplanting mexican fence post cactus is early summer to mid-summer or late fall to late winter, as it ensures optimum growth. Choose a location with well-draining soil and ample sunlight. When transplanting, avoid excessive root disturbance for a successful transition.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Mexican fence post cactus?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Mexican fence post cactus?
The prime seasons for relocating mexican fence post cactus are from the onset of summer to midsummer, and again from late autumn to the chillier end of winter. These periods offer the most optimal growth conditions. Transplanting mexican fence post cactus at these times ensures its steady development since the plant adjusts better to the soil change and recovers faster from transplant shock. You'll find it's not just about transplanting, it's about helping your plant thrive. Remember, the right timing can make the world of difference to mexican fence post cactus's longevity and health.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Mexican fence post cactus Plants?
For transplanting mexican fence post cactus, it's best to provide ample space for growth. Aim for a spacing of about 2-3 feet (60-90 cm) between each plant. This will ensure they have enough room to grow and flourish!
What is the Best Soil Mix for Mexican fence post cactus Transplanting?
Before transplanting mexican fence post cactus, prepare the soil with a well-draining mixture, such as a blend of sandy and loamy soil. Add some organic matter, like compost, as a base fertilizer to provide essential nutrients and enhance soil structure.
Where Should You Relocate Your Mexican fence post cactus?
Select a transplanting location for mexican fence post cactus that offers plenty of sunlight. These plants thrive in full sun exposure, so selecting a spot with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight every day will keep them happy and healthy!
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Mexican fence post cactus?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while handling the spiky mexican fence post cactus and from the coarse soil and amendments.
Garden Shovel
Ideal for digging the planting hole in the ground for your mexican fence post cactus.
Garden Trowel
Useful for carefully removing the mexican fence post cactus from its current pot or ground.
Stake Supports
To maintain the stability of the mexican fence post cactus as it adapts to its new location.
Garden Hose or Watering Can
For watering the plant during and after transplanting.
Compost
To provide nutrients and improve the quality of the soil in the new planting location.
Mulch
To help retain moisture in the soil around the mexican fence post cactus after it has been transplanted.
How Do You Remove Mexican fence post cactus from the Soil?
Prepare the planting hole in the ground using a garden shovel. The hole should be twice as wide and deep as the root ball of the mexican fence post cactus. Add some compost to the planting hole for additional nutrients.
Place the mexican fence post cactus in the hole with the top of the root ball level with the ground soil surface. Fill in the space around the plant with soil, firming it gently.
Position stake supports around your mexican fence post cactus and tie them loosely to maintain its stability.
Water the plant thoroughly using a garden hose or watering can after transplanting to help settle the soil.
Spread mulch around the base of the mexican fence post cactus to help retain soil moisture and prevent weeds.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Mexican fence post cactus
Step1 Preparation
Prepare the planting hole in the ground using a garden shovel. The hole should be twice as wide and deep as the root ball of the mexican fence post cactus. Add some compost to the planting hole for additional nutrients.
Step2 Planting
Place the mexican fence post cactus in the hole with the top of the root ball level with the ground soil surface. Fill in the space around the plant with soil, firming it gently.
Step3 Staking
Position stake supports around your mexican fence post cactus and tie them loosely to maintain its stability.
Step4 Watering
Water the plant thoroughly using a garden hose or watering can after transplanting to help settle the soil.
Step5 Mulching
Spread mulch around the base of the mexican fence post cactus to help retain soil moisture and prevent weeds.
How Do You Care For Mexican fence post cactus After Transplanting?
Regular Watering
During the first few weeks after transplanting, ensure the soil around the mexican fence post cactus remains consistently moist but not waterlogged. This will help the plant establish strong roots in its new location.
Pruning
Prune any wilted or dead parts of the mexican fence post cactus after a few weeks of transplanting to encourage new growth and maintain the plant's health and appearance.
Monitoring
Keep a close watch on your mexican fence post cactus for any signs of stress or pest attacks. If you notice any problems, treat them promptly to prevent them from affecting the overall health of the plant.
Supports
Check the stake supports regularly and adjust them as the mexican fence post cactus grows and becomes more stable.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Mexican fence post cactus Transplantation.
When should I transplant mexican fence post cactus plant for the best result?
For the best result, transplant mexican fence post cactus from the dawn of summer to mid-summer or from late fall to the depth of winter.
How much spacing should I provide while transplanting mexican fence post cactus?
Provide a comfortable zone around each mexican fence post cactus by maintaining a distance of 2-3 ft. (60-90 cm) while transplanting.
What should be the ideal depth of the hole for transplanting mexican fence post cactus?
The hole depth should approximately be the same as the height of the pot it came with, favoring healthy root growth.
How should I prepare the soil before transplanting mexican fence post cactus?
For mexican fence post cactus, use well-draining soil. Mix in sand or grit for better drainage if soil clumps together when squeezed.
What is the ideal temperature for transplanting mexican fence post cactus?
Mexican fence post cactus loves a moderate temperature ranging from 50-75°F (10-24°C) ideally. Always avoid frost and hot weather during transplant.
Can I just pull out the mexican fence post cactus from its original place for transplanting?
Rather than pulling, gently lift mexican fence post cactus to avoid root damage. Dig around the plant maintaining a safe distance, then lift it out.
How frequently should I water mexican fence post cactus after transplanting?
Water mexican fence post cactus immediately after transplanting, then let the topsoil dry out between waterings, usually once a week, depending on the temperature.
Should I fertilize mexican fence post cactus after transplanting, if yes, which type should I use?
Yes, after a few weeks of transplanting, mexican fence post cactus can benefit from a light feeding of low-nitrogen cactus fertilizer.
Can I transplant mexican fence post cactus into a container?
Absolutely! Choose a container that's wider than taller. Ensure good drainage and follow the above mentioned transplantation tips.
What is the aftercare for mexican fence post cactus post-transplantation?
Keep mexican fence post cactus in partial shade for a few days post-transplant. Water when topsoil is dry & protect from frost during winter.
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