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Lipstick echeveria
Lipstick echeveria
Lipstick echeveria
Lipstick echeveria
Lipstick echeveria
Lipstick echeveria
Lipstick echeveria
Echeveria agavoides
Also known as : Molded wax, Molded wax plant, House leek
Water
Water
Every 3 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
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care guide

Care Guide for Lipstick echeveria

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Watering Care
Watering Care
Details on Watering Care Watering Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilizing Care
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Pruning
Pruning
Trim the diseased, withered leaves once a month.
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Soil Care
Soil Care
Sand, Loam, Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
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Repotting
Repotting
Repot every 1-2 years.
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Lipstick echeveria
Water
Water
Every 3 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
9 to 12
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring, Summer
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Questions About Lipstick echeveria

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Watering Watering Watering
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Lipstick echeveria?
The proper way to water Lipstick echeveria requires some timing. For example, you should wait until the spring, when the new leaves are beginning to grow, before considering adding water to this plant’s pot. Once that season arrives, you can add water when the soil inside the pot has become entirely dry. When watering, you can use either tap water or distilled water. It's best not to water this plant from overhead. Instead, you should water at the base of the plant by applying the water slowly and evenly across the entire surface of the soil. This method will allow you to moisten all parts of the soil consistently without dampening the above-ground portions of the plant, which your Lipstick echeveria will appreciate. Typically, you can continue adding water until you notice a light stream of excess water draining from the pot’s hole.
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What should I do if I water my Lipstick echeveria too much or too little?
An overwatered Lipstick echeveria is a far more common occurrence than one that is underwatered. Overwatering is also incredibly detrimental to your plant's health as it can cause one Lipstick echeveria to die quite quickly. One way to avoid overwatering is to allow the soil to dry entirely before adding water, as mentioned previously. Especially when it turns into dormancy, lots of people will just water it in the wrong way. As such, we’ll focus on how to remedy the problem of overwatering. When your Lipstick echeveria shows signs of overwatering, it is often best to remove it from its current pot. After removal, you should access the roots of this plant and remove any that show signs of rot or some other moisture-related disease. While some roots should be removed, others will return to full health after a simple cleaning. After this stage, you should repot your Lipstick echeveria in soil that has excellent drainage capabilities to lessen the odds of future overwatering. While unlikely, underwatering can take place too. If that occurs for you, all you need to do is supply your plant with water on a slightly more frequent basis, ensuring that you don't overcorrect the issue and end up overwatering your plant.
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How often should I water my Lipstick echeveria?
As a succulent plant, the water needs of Lipstick echeveria are quite low compared to most other plants because this plant hails from a region that is constantly hot and dry. To give this plant species proper care, you should allow its soil to dry out completely between waterings. Typically, it will take anywhere from two weeks to a month for the soil to dry entirely, at which time you can add water. Watering frequency tends to be very seasonally related. During the spring to summer period, it will be in a growing state and it may take 2-3 weeks for the soil to dry completely, you can follow this watering frequency. During the summer time, the soil may dry out faster. However, when the temperature falls below 60 degrees or rises above 85 degrees Fahrenheit, most of them will be dormant or semi-dormant, which means that the plant does not need more watering at the moment. Instead, you should reduce or even stop watering to keep the soil dry until the temperature is appropriate again for Lipstick echeveria to grow, and then restart watering.
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How much water does my Lipstick echeveria need?
Overall, Lipstick echeveria does not need a high volume of water. This is mainly due to the fact that this plant must go for a while without receiving water. However, when the time to water this plant does arrive, you should be ready to give it a lot of water. While there is no set amount of water to give this plant, you should not stop watering until the soil is completely moist. The best way to ensure this is the case, provided you grow this plant in a pot, is to water it until you see water trickling through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. You can also insert a pencil or some similar object deep into the soil to test if you have watered enough. If you remove the pencil and it is moist, then you have provided enough water.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Lipstick echeveria enough?
Generally, overwatering is a far more significant issue than underwatering is. When overwatering occurs, you should notice right away as the leaves will begin to lose their form, become mushy, and change colors. This will be a stark contrast to a healthy set of living stone leaves, which should be relatively sturdy and hold their shape. Underwatering is incredibly rare for Lipstick echeveria, as this species can often survive with no water at all. However, if underwatering does occur, you will usually notice leaf discoloration and dryness.
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How should I water my Lipstick echeveria through the seasons?
As mentioned, Lipstick echeveria needs the most water during the times of year that it is actively growing. By contrast, in winter, when the plant is entirely dormant, you should reduce these already low watering needs. In fact, during winter, you should not water this plant at all. Once spring arrives, wait until your Lipstick echeverias begin to develop new leaves. Once that occurs, you can return to your regular watering schedule. During the hottest parts of summer, your plant may enter another dormant growth phase, which means its water needs will be lower than normal. As summer ends and fall arrives, you can begin reducing your watering in anticipation of winter. By the time winter arrives, you should cease watering altogether.
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How should I water my Lipstick echeveria at different growth stages?
By and large, the water needs of Lipstick echeveria will remain consistent throughout each of its growth stages. Anyway, Lipstick echeveria prefers dry soil conditions more than moist ones, so watering less is safer for it than watering a lot. However, there are some phases in which your Lipstick echeveria may need slightly more water than usual. Despite being known for their foliage, Lipstick echeverias can also provide flowers, but these flowers do not arrive until the plant is at least a few years old. Once flower development is possible, your Lipstick echeveria may need a minimal uptick in its watering schedule to accommodate flower development. Otherwise, you should not expect to change your watering frequency significantly based on this plant’s growth stages.
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What's the difference between watering Lipstick echeveria indoors and outdoors?
Growing Lipstick echeverias outdoors is not an option for most gardeners in hardiness zones colder than zone 9, as this plant loves areas that have warm or hot weather year-round. Only in regions that do not have yearly temperatures that fall below 40 degrees Fahrenheit can this plant species survive. If you live in such an area, you should study the average rainfall in your area as well. If you live where it rains often, your Lipstick echeveria will likely die from overwatering. But if you live in a warm climate in which it rains occasionally, you may not need to water your Lipstick echeverias at all. Those who live in cooler areas of the world should have no issue growing this plant indoors. If that is the approach you take, you can wait until all of the soil in your plant's container has dried out while also following the rest of the general watering advice we've laid out in the sections above.
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Key Facts About Lipstick echeveria

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Attributes of Lipstick echeveria

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Succulent, Herb
Planting Time
Spring, Summer
Bloom Time
Spring, Early summer, Mid winter, Late winter
Plant Height
8 cm to 12 cm
Spread
20 cm to 30 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Red
Flower Size
2.5 cm
Flower Color
Yellow
Red
Stem Color
Green
Red
Yellow
Dormancy
Summer dormancy
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃

Symbolism

Usages

Artistic Value
Garden Use

Trivia and Interesting Facts

Scientific Classification of Lipstick echeveria

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Quickly Identify Lipstick echeveria

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Rosette up to 12 inches wide and 6 inches tall with apple-green leaves.
2
Leaves taper to a pointed spine, adorned with distinctive reddish edges.
3
Produces red flowers tipped with yellow in spring to early summer.
4
Thrives in sunnier spots of cooler gardens, adaptable to shade.
5
Hardy plant, tolerates temperatures of approximately 15-20 degrees Fahrenheit (-9 to -7 degrees Celsius).
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Common Pests & Diseases About Lipstick echeveria

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Common issues for Lipstick echeveria based on 10 million real cases
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Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot
Leaf rot
Leaf rot is a common disease affecting Lipstick echeveria, caused mainly by fungal pathogens and overwatering. The disease weakens the plant and can be lethal if not addressed timely. It manifests with browning, wilting, and eventual disintegration of leaves.
Low light
Low light Low light
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Soft rot
Soft rot Soft rot
Soft rot
Soft rot causes the entire plant to turn black and rot from the inside out.
Solutions: Once soft rot appears, it is difficult to control. For minor issues of soft rot where only a small area is affected: Reduce watering. Only water when the soil is completely dry. Prune away affected tissue. Remove all dead and/or rotting roots and leaves. Use sterile tools. Repot using new soil. If potted, repot the plant with new soil. Be sure to use a pot with proper drainage holes. For severe cases when a large amount of tissue is infected or black: Dispose of plant. Severely infected plants will not recover. Dispose of the plant so that other nearby plants are not infected. Do not compost the infected plant.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Scars
Scars Scars
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Leaf rot
Overview
Symptom
Causes
Treatment
Prevention
Active Period
What is Leaf rot Disease on Lipstick echeveria?
What is Leaf rot Disease on Lipstick echeveria?
Leaf rot is a common disease affecting Lipstick echeveria, caused mainly by fungal pathogens and overwatering. The disease weakens the plant and can be lethal if not addressed timely. It manifests with browning, wilting, and eventual disintegration of leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Some visible signs on Lipstick echeveria are darkening, wilting, and browning of leaves. These signs are often accompanied by a musty smell. In advanced stages of the disease, the leaves start to disintegrate.
What Causes Leaf rot Disease on Lipstick echeveria?
What Causes Leaf rot Disease on Lipstick echeveria?
1
Fungal pathogens
Often, the disease is caused by a variety of soilborne and air-borne fungi.
2
Overwatering
Lipstick echeveria plants do not handle moisture well. Overly damp conditions can encourage the onset of leaf rot.
How to Treat Leaf rot Disease on Lipstick echeveria?
How to Treat Leaf rot Disease on Lipstick echeveria?
1
Non pesticide
Improving drainage: Well-drained soils and adequate spacing can prevent waterlogging.

Drying Out: Allowing the plant to dry out thoroughly between watering can help.
2
Pesticide
Fungicides: Use of broad-spectrum fungicides can arrest disease progression.

Anti-rot formulations: Specific anti-rot solutions can be applied to the infected leaves.
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Low light
plant poor
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
  1. Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
  2. There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
  3. All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
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Soft rot
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Soft rot
Soft rot causes the entire plant to turn black and rot from the inside out.
Overview
Overview
Soft rot is a common disease affecting mostly fruits and vegetables. It can occur while plants are growing but is more common once the produce has been harvested. The most susceptible plants are fleshy vegetables like tomatoes, lettuce, sweet potato, capsicum, bananas, eggplants, squash, cucumber, avocados, and potatoes.
Many succulents are also susceptible to soft rot. This is especially the case when the plant has received some damage, as bacteria enters the succulent through the open wound.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Initially, the disease is spotted in the form of soft, wet, cream-to-tan necrotic spots. These may appear on fruits and vegetables, including tubers, or succulent leaves and stems. The spots are surrounded by a dark brown to black ring.
As the disease progresses, the plant part becomes infected with a soft and slimy rot that has a foul odor. A dark discoloration can be seen internally. Potatoes, sweet potatoes and other tubers will have evidence of this rot under the skin. Fruits like avocados exhibit a dark metallic sheen on the outside and the flesh is grey to black. The flesh also has a putrid odor.
Succulents with soft rot will have watery-looking scabs on the stems or leaves. As the disease progresses, the spots will turn brown to black and they may have a foul-smelling discharge. For succulents with shorter stems, it may be more difficult to notice the earliest symptoms, and soft rot may not be noticed until the plant has already begun rotting from the center.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Soft rot is caused by the bacteria Erwinia cartovorum. This bacteria secretes enzymes that decompose the cell wall structure of the plant. This destroys the plant tissue and causes the plant or its fruit to rot.
The bacteria lives in crop debris as well as soil and water, including the ocean. It infects plants through open wounds, including those caused by overwatering in succulents. It is normally spread by splashing water, insects, and wind. Infection is worse in hot and humid weather.
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Aged yellow and dry
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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Scars
plant poor
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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distribution

Distribution of Lipstick echeveria

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Habitat of Lipstick echeveria

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Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Lipstick echeveria

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Cultivated
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Potentially invasive
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No species reported
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More Info on Lipstick Echeveria Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
Common Pests & Diseases
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Lighting
Full sun
Lipstick echeveria prospers in full-day exposure to the sun, though it can withstand areas with partial shade. Originating from areas abundant in sun, its growth efficiency thrives under such conditions. Excessive shading may lead to elongation and paleness, while too intense sun exposure can risk scorching.
Best Sunlight Practices
Transplant
8-10 inches
The best time to transplant lipstick echeveria is from early to late spring, or late fall through late winter. This provides optimum growing conditions for the plant. Choose a well-draining location with sunlight exposure, and handle its roots gently during transplant for a thriving lipstick echeveria!
Transplant Techniques
Temperature
0 - 43 ℃
The lipstick echeveria prefers to grow at temperatures between 68 to 100 ℉ (20 to 38 ℃) and is native to areas with warm climates. In hot weather, it is best to provide some shade or reduce the amount of direct sunlight. During cooler months, it is recommended to bring indoors as it is susceptible to frost damage.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Propagation
Spring, Summer
Lipstick echeveria propagates best through cuttings during the warmer months of Spring and Summer. This method is relatively easy, with successful propagation indicated by new root growth. Ensure well-draining soil for optimal results.
Propagation Techniques
Overwinter
0 - 43 ℃
Native to rocky areas in Mexico, lipstick echeveria is accustomed to mild winters. Their thick leaves store enough moisture to withstand dry spells, typical of their native semi-arid environments. During winter, gardeners should limit watering and protect lipstick echeveria from frost, ensuring temperatures don't drop below 7-10°C. An ideal winter setting involves a cool, bright spot, mimicking the plant's natural winter condition.
Winter Techniques
Best Time to Buy
Mid fall, Late fall
Ideal for buying in mid to late autumn, lipstick echeveria is a low-maintenance plant, known for its moderate growth rate. Often sought for its maroon-tinted tips, it adds unique hues to any garden or indoor plant collection. When shopping, look for firm leaves and a healthy root system for a thriving lipstick echeveria.
How to Choose Lipstick echeveria
Leaf rot
Leaf rot is a common disease affecting Lipstick echeveria, caused mainly by fungal pathogens and overwatering. The disease weakens the plant and can be lethal if not addressed timely. It manifests with browning, wilting, and eventual disintegration of leaves.
Read More
Soft Rot
Soft Rot is a disease that can gravely affect Lipstick echeveria. It is caused by various bacteria and fungi, leading to significant decay and wilting of plant tissues. Failure to manage the disease can result in considerable plant loss.
Read More
Brown blotch
Brown spot is a plant disease that severely impacts the health of Lipstick echeveria, often resulting in the formation of brownish circular spots on leaves, stunted growth, and in severe cases, plant death. This fungal disease is most active in humid and moisture-rich environments.
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Soil fungus
Soil fungus is a common plant disease affecting roots and leaves, causing rot, discoloration, and often plant death. It severely impacts Lipstick echeveria, leading to diminished health and aesthetic appeal.
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White blotch
White blotch is a disease affecting Lipstick echeveria, causing white spots on leaves, potentially stunted growth, and overall health decline. Quick identification and treatment are crucial.
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Black mold
Black mold is a fungal infection that manifests as dark, unsightly spots on Lipstick echeveria. It can lead to leaf decay and potentially weaken the overall health of the plant if left untreated.
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Leaf yellowing
Leaf yellowing is a common disease affecting Lipstick echeveria, causing its leaves to yellow and potentially wilt if untreated. It results from environmental stressors or pathogens, reducing the plant's aesthetics and health.
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Whole leaf withering
Whole leaf withering is a condition that severely affects the health and appearance of the Lipstick echeveria. It causes discolouration, wilting, and eventually the death of the leaves. Without prompt action, it can lead to overall plant demise.
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Leaf wrinkling
Leaf wrinkling is a serious disease that affects Lipstick echeveria, resulting in distortion and discoloration of leaves. The condition decreases the aesthetic appeal and vitality of the plant, and if left untreated, can lead to plant death.
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Leaf curling
Leaf curling in Lipstick echeveria typically indicates water stress, pathogen infection or pest infestation, leading to distorted foliage, hindered growth, and potential plant demise.
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Black blotch
Black spot is a fungal disease affecting Lipstick echeveria, causing unsightly black spots, declining health, and eventual death of the plant. Diligent care, effective treatment, and preventive measures can control the spread and impact of this disease.
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Etiolated stem
Etiolated Stem is a physiological disorder affecting Lipstick echeveria, resulting in elongated, pale stems due to inadequate light exposure. This syndrome hinders plants' normal growth, compromising their appearance, health, and, ultimately, their survival.
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Dark blotch
Dark blotch is a fungal disease affecting Lipstick echeveria, characterized by discolored patches on the leaves, which can further degrade plant health if untreated. This condition can notably mar the aesthetic and vigor of these succulents.
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Leaf tip withering
Leaf tip withering is a condition that affects Lipstick echeveria, causing the tips of the leaves to dry and withe. This can result in impairment of the plant's photosynthetic capability and overall growth, thereby lowering its ornamental value.
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leaf discolorations
Leaf discolorations is a common disease that affects many plants such as Lipstick echeveria. It causes significant changes in the plant's leaf color, impacting its growth and overall appearance. Timely detection and appropriate treatment can help manage this disease.
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Mushrooms
Mushroom disease in Lipstick echeveria results from fungal infection, causing discoloration, rotting, and growth impairment. It's essential to detect early and manage promptly to prevent plant fatality.
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Wilting
Wilting is a plant disease causing severe desiccation and weakening in Lipstick echeveria. It majorly undermines the plant's health and growth, notably affecting its leaves. The disease is notably active during warmer periods and wet conditions and is generally caused by poor drainage and bacteria.
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Feng shui direction
Southwest
Lipstick echeveria is generally compatible with Feng Shui principles. It embodies the element of earth, making it suitable to be placed in the southwest direction to enhance love and relationships. However, Feng Shui practices are subjective, so the effects can vary depending on individual situations and environments.
Fengshui Details
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Plants Related to Lipstick echeveria

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Balloon plant
Balloon plant
Balloon plant is grown ornamentally for its white flowers and the balloon-shaped follicles for which it is named. These follicles are filled with air and covered in spiny hairs, eventually opening to release seeds. They make interesting additions to flower arrangements. This plant is an important food for Monarch butterfly caterpillars.
Grape leaf anemone
Grape leaf anemone
Grape leaf anemone (Eriocapitella vitifolia) is an attractive flower that originated in the Himalayas. Though it is not quite commonly cultivated in the garden, its hybrid with Japanese anemone is a popular garden plant. It’s also called the grape-leafed windflower, because “Anemone” comes from the Greek word “Anemoi,” which means “winds.”
Devil's darning needles
Devil's darning needles
Devil's darning needles is a climbing vine native to the Southeastern United States. This vine attaches by delicate tendrils and therefore does not harm its supporting structure. It is attractive to bees and hummingbirds while being deer resistant. The flowers on this vine are white and bloom through the summer.
Black locust
Black locust
While the black locust may have a bad reputation in many areas of the US due to its opportunistic and rapid growth, there are benefits to this tree. The black locust is an important food source for honey bees and is a good choice for windbreaks since it grows so quickly (91 to 122 cm per year). Its wood also resists rot, so it is used in fenceposts. The plant is highly toxic, though, and should never be consumed.
Water oak
Water oak
Water oak (Quercus nigra) is a medium-sized deciduous tree often found in low woodlands, floodplains, and near swamps and rivers in southeastern areas of North America, where it plays an important role in woodland ecosystems. It is rarely used in ornamental purposes due to its unfavorable growing qualities.
Poisonbulb
Poisonbulb
Poisonbulb (Crinum asiaticum) is a bulbous perennial native to the Pacific Islands. It is toxic if ingested and caution should be exercised around this plant. Symptoms of poisonbulb poisoning include rapid heartbeat, vomiting, and fever.
Cape jasmine
Cape jasmine
Gardenia jasminoides is an evergreen shrub with unique, glossy evergreen leaves and stunning flowers. The sophisticated, matte white flowers are often used in bouquets. The exceptional beauty of this ornamental plant has made it a popular and highly appreciated plant amongst gardeners and horticulturalists.
Golden pothos
Golden pothos
The golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular houseplant that is commonly seen in Australia, Asia, and the West Indies. It goes by many nicknames, including "devil's ivy", because it is so hard to kill and can even grow in low light conditions. Golden pothos has poisonous sap, so it should be kept away from pets and children.
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Lipstick echeveria
Lipstick echeveria
Lipstick echeveria
Lipstick echeveria
Lipstick echeveria
Lipstick echeveria
Lipstick echeveria
Echeveria agavoides
Also known as: Molded wax, Molded wax plant, House leek
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Every 3 weeks
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Questions About Lipstick echeveria

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Watering Watering Watering
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Lipstick echeveria?
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What should I do if I water my Lipstick echeveria too much or too little?
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How often should I water my Lipstick echeveria?
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How much water does my Lipstick echeveria need?
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How should I water my Lipstick echeveria through the seasons?
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Key Facts About Lipstick echeveria

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Attributes of Lipstick echeveria

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Succulent, Herb
Planting Time
Spring, Summer
Bloom Time
Spring, Early summer, Mid winter, Late winter
Plant Height
8 cm to 12 cm
Spread
20 cm to 30 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Red
Flower Size
2.5 cm
Flower Color
Yellow
Red
Stem Color
Green
Red
Yellow
Dormancy
Summer dormancy
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃
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Usages

Artistic Value
Garden Use

Trivia and Interesting Facts

Scientific Classification of Lipstick echeveria

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Quickly Identify Lipstick echeveria

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1
Rosette up to 12 inches wide and 6 inches tall with apple-green leaves.
2
Leaves taper to a pointed spine, adorned with distinctive reddish edges.
3
Produces red flowers tipped with yellow in spring to early summer.
4
Thrives in sunnier spots of cooler gardens, adaptable to shade.
5
Hardy plant, tolerates temperatures of approximately 15-20 degrees Fahrenheit (-9 to -7 degrees Celsius).
Lipstick echeveria identify image Lipstick echeveria identify image Lipstick echeveria identify image Lipstick echeveria identify image Lipstick echeveria identify image
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Common Pests & Diseases About Lipstick echeveria

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Common issues for Lipstick echeveria based on 10 million real cases
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Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot Leaf rot
Leaf rot is a common disease affecting Lipstick echeveria, caused mainly by fungal pathogens and overwatering. The disease weakens the plant and can be lethal if not addressed timely. It manifests with browning, wilting, and eventual disintegration of leaves.
Learn More About the Leaf rot more
Low light
Low light Low light Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Learn More About the Low light more
Soft rot
Soft rot Soft rot Soft rot
Soft rot causes the entire plant to turn black and rot from the inside out.
Solutions: Once soft rot appears, it is difficult to control. For minor issues of soft rot where only a small area is affected: Reduce watering. Only water when the soil is completely dry. Prune away affected tissue. Remove all dead and/or rotting roots and leaves. Use sterile tools. Repot using new soil. If potted, repot the plant with new soil. Be sure to use a pot with proper drainage holes. For severe cases when a large amount of tissue is infected or black: Dispose of plant. Severely infected plants will not recover. Dispose of the plant so that other nearby plants are not infected. Do not compost the infected plant.
Learn More About the Soft rot more
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More About the Aged yellow and dry more
Scars
Scars Scars Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Learn More About the Scars more
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More About the Brown spot more
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Leaf rot
Overview
Symptom
Causes
Treatment
Prevention
Active Period
What is Leaf rot Disease on Lipstick echeveria?
What is Leaf rot Disease on Lipstick echeveria?
Leaf rot is a common disease affecting Lipstick echeveria, caused mainly by fungal pathogens and overwatering. The disease weakens the plant and can be lethal if not addressed timely. It manifests with browning, wilting, and eventual disintegration of leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Some visible signs on Lipstick echeveria are darkening, wilting, and browning of leaves. These signs are often accompanied by a musty smell. In advanced stages of the disease, the leaves start to disintegrate.
What Causes Leaf rot Disease on Lipstick echeveria?
What Causes Leaf rot Disease on Lipstick echeveria?
1
Fungal pathogens
Often, the disease is caused by a variety of soilborne and air-borne fungi.
2
Overwatering
Lipstick echeveria plants do not handle moisture well. Overly damp conditions can encourage the onset of leaf rot.
How to Treat Leaf rot Disease on Lipstick echeveria?
How to Treat Leaf rot Disease on Lipstick echeveria?
1
Non pesticide
Improving drainage: Well-drained soils and adequate spacing can prevent waterlogging.

Drying Out: Allowing the plant to dry out thoroughly between watering can help.
2
Pesticide
Fungicides: Use of broad-spectrum fungicides can arrest disease progression.

Anti-rot formulations: Specific anti-rot solutions can be applied to the infected leaves.
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Low light
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Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
  1. Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
  2. There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
  3. All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
Solutions
Solutions
Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed.
  • Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn.
  • Introduce appropriate artificial lighting.
  • Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Prevention
Prevention
To avoid etiolation, provide an adequate amount of light from the beginning.
  1. Choose a location that matches each plant's ideal light needs. Many indoor plants do best in or near a south-facing window, which will provide the longest hours of sunlight. Flowering plants and those with colored leaves typically need more light than purely-green plants, as photosynthesis occurs in the green portions of leaves.
  2. Select plants with light needs that match a location's conditions. Some cultivars and varieties require less light than others.
  3. Use a grow light. Darker locations may require artificial illumination. A grow light may also become more necessary during winter, when sunlit hours are at their shortest.
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Soft rot
plant poor
Soft rot
Soft rot causes the entire plant to turn black and rot from the inside out.
Overview
Overview
Soft rot is a common disease affecting mostly fruits and vegetables. It can occur while plants are growing but is more common once the produce has been harvested. The most susceptible plants are fleshy vegetables like tomatoes, lettuce, sweet potato, capsicum, bananas, eggplants, squash, cucumber, avocados, and potatoes.
Many succulents are also susceptible to soft rot. This is especially the case when the plant has received some damage, as bacteria enters the succulent through the open wound.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Initially, the disease is spotted in the form of soft, wet, cream-to-tan necrotic spots. These may appear on fruits and vegetables, including tubers, or succulent leaves and stems. The spots are surrounded by a dark brown to black ring.
As the disease progresses, the plant part becomes infected with a soft and slimy rot that has a foul odor. A dark discoloration can be seen internally. Potatoes, sweet potatoes and other tubers will have evidence of this rot under the skin. Fruits like avocados exhibit a dark metallic sheen on the outside and the flesh is grey to black. The flesh also has a putrid odor.
Succulents with soft rot will have watery-looking scabs on the stems or leaves. As the disease progresses, the spots will turn brown to black and they may have a foul-smelling discharge. For succulents with shorter stems, it may be more difficult to notice the earliest symptoms, and soft rot may not be noticed until the plant has already begun rotting from the center.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Soft rot is caused by the bacteria Erwinia cartovorum. This bacteria secretes enzymes that decompose the cell wall structure of the plant. This destroys the plant tissue and causes the plant or its fruit to rot.
The bacteria lives in crop debris as well as soil and water, including the ocean. It infects plants through open wounds, including those caused by overwatering in succulents. It is normally spread by splashing water, insects, and wind. Infection is worse in hot and humid weather.
Solutions
Solutions
Once soft rot appears, it is difficult to control.
For minor issues of soft rot where only a small area is affected:
  1. Reduce watering. Only water when the soil is completely dry.
  2. Prune away affected tissue. Remove all dead and/or rotting roots and leaves. Use sterile tools.
  3. Repot using new soil. If potted, repot the plant with new soil. Be sure to use a pot with proper drainage holes.
For severe cases when a large amount of tissue is infected or black:
  1. Dispose of plant. Severely infected plants will not recover. Dispose of the plant so that other nearby plants are not infected. Do not compost the infected plant.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent soft rot, do the following:
  1. Avoid overwatering. Only water succulents when soil is almost dry. Make sure potted plants are in containers with drainage holes.
  2. Ensure proper airflow. Do not crowd plants together. Make sure there is adequate space between plants to allow for airflow.
  3. Source healthy plants. Avoid introducing plants with soft rot into your garden or home. Buy plants for a reliable source and check for signs of soft rot.
  4. Sterilize pruning tools. Soft rot bacteria enter plants where tissue is cut. Make sure to sterilize pruning tools before using.
  5. Control pests. Pests can spread soft rot bacteria when they feed on plants. Controlling pests will help stop the spread of soft rot.
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Aged yellow and dry
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Scars
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Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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distribution

Distribution of Lipstick echeveria

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Habitat of Lipstick echeveria

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Northern Hemisphere
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Distribution Map of Lipstick echeveria

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More Info on Lipstick Echeveria Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
Common Pests & Diseases
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Leaf rot
Leaf rot
Leaf rot is a common disease affecting Lipstick echeveria, caused mainly by fungal pathogens and overwatering. The disease weakens the plant and can be lethal if not addressed timely. It manifests with browning, wilting, and eventual disintegration of leaves.
 detail
Soft Rot
Soft Rot
Soft Rot is a disease that can gravely affect Lipstick echeveria. It is caused by various bacteria and fungi, leading to significant decay and wilting of plant tissues. Failure to manage the disease can result in considerable plant loss.
 detail
Brown blotch
Brown blotch
Brown spot is a plant disease that severely impacts the health of Lipstick echeveria, often resulting in the formation of brownish circular spots on leaves, stunted growth, and in severe cases, plant death. This fungal disease is most active in humid and moisture-rich environments.
 detail
Soil fungus
Soil fungus is a common plant disease affecting roots and leaves, causing rot, discoloration, and often plant death. It severely impacts Lipstick echeveria, leading to diminished health and aesthetic appeal.
 detail
White blotch
White blotch is a disease affecting Lipstick echeveria, causing white spots on leaves, potentially stunted growth, and overall health decline. Quick identification and treatment are crucial.
 detail
Black mold
Black mold is a fungal infection that manifests as dark, unsightly spots on Lipstick echeveria. It can lead to leaf decay and potentially weaken the overall health of the plant if left untreated.
 detail
Leaf yellowing
Leaf yellowing is a common disease affecting Lipstick echeveria, causing its leaves to yellow and potentially wilt if untreated. It results from environmental stressors or pathogens, reducing the plant's aesthetics and health.
 detail
Whole leaf withering
Whole leaf withering is a condition that severely affects the health and appearance of the Lipstick echeveria. It causes discolouration, wilting, and eventually the death of the leaves. Without prompt action, it can lead to overall plant demise.
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Leaf wrinkling
Leaf wrinkling is a serious disease that affects Lipstick echeveria, resulting in distortion and discoloration of leaves. The condition decreases the aesthetic appeal and vitality of the plant, and if left untreated, can lead to plant death.
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Leaf curling
Leaf curling in Lipstick echeveria typically indicates water stress, pathogen infection or pest infestation, leading to distorted foliage, hindered growth, and potential plant demise.
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Black blotch
Black spot is a fungal disease affecting Lipstick echeveria, causing unsightly black spots, declining health, and eventual death of the plant. Diligent care, effective treatment, and preventive measures can control the spread and impact of this disease.
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Etiolated stem
Etiolated Stem is a physiological disorder affecting Lipstick echeveria, resulting in elongated, pale stems due to inadequate light exposure. This syndrome hinders plants' normal growth, compromising their appearance, health, and, ultimately, their survival.
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Dark blotch
Dark blotch is a fungal disease affecting Lipstick echeveria, characterized by discolored patches on the leaves, which can further degrade plant health if untreated. This condition can notably mar the aesthetic and vigor of these succulents.
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Leaf tip withering
Leaf tip withering is a condition that affects Lipstick echeveria, causing the tips of the leaves to dry and withe. This can result in impairment of the plant's photosynthetic capability and overall growth, thereby lowering its ornamental value.
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leaf discolorations
Leaf discolorations is a common disease that affects many plants such as Lipstick echeveria. It causes significant changes in the plant's leaf color, impacting its growth and overall appearance. Timely detection and appropriate treatment can help manage this disease.
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Mushrooms
Mushroom disease in Lipstick echeveria results from fungal infection, causing discoloration, rotting, and growth impairment. It's essential to detect early and manage promptly to prevent plant fatality.
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Wilting
Wilting is a plant disease causing severe desiccation and weakening in Lipstick echeveria. It majorly undermines the plant's health and growth, notably affecting its leaves. The disease is notably active during warmer periods and wet conditions and is generally caused by poor drainage and bacteria.
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Plants Related to Lipstick echeveria

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Lighting
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Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Lipstick echeveria prospers in full-day exposure to the sun, though it can withstand areas with partial shade. Originating from areas abundant in sun, its growth efficiency thrives under such conditions. Excessive shading may lead to elongation and paleness, while too intense sun exposure can risk scorching.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Lipstick echeveria is a beloved choice for indoor gardening, and they require strong light to thrive. However, when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting, they may develop symptoms of light deficiency.
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Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your lipstick echeveria may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Slower or no new growth
Lipstick echeveria enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Lipstick echeveria require strong light to thrive, and some are remarkably resilient to sun exposure, rarely suffering from sunburn.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
The lipstick echeveria prefers to grow at temperatures between 68 to 100 ℉ (20 to 38 ℃) and is native to areas with warm climates. In hot weather, it is best to provide some shade or reduce the amount of direct sunlight. During cooler months, it is recommended to bring indoors as it is susceptible to frost damage.
Regional wintering strategies
Winter is the growing season for Lipstick echeveria, so it is important to maintain temperatures above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} for optimal growth. When the outdoor temperature drops below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it is advisable to bring the plant indoors to a well-lit area. Increase watering when the temperature is higher and reduce watering when it approaches {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. If overwintering the plant outdoors, it should be placed in a sheltered area with ample sunlight. Consider setting up a temporary greenhouse for protection if the outdoor temperature is consistently low and keep the plant adequately moist.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in Lipstick echeveria
Lipstick echeveria is not tolerant of extremely cold temperatures. It thrives best when the temperature is between {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} and {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves will exhibit water-soaked necrosis and wilting. In cases of mild frost damage, there may not be any initial symptoms, but after a week, the leaves will significantly wilt and eventually fall off.
Solutions
Trim off the frostbitten areas. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment or set up a makeshift greenhouse for cold protection. When placing the plant indoors, choose a location near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. When using a makeshift greenhouse, pay attention to ventilation to avoid plant decay due to poor airflow.
Symptoms of High Temperature in Lipstick echeveria
During summer, Lipstick echeveria should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant will enter a dormant state, and it becomes more prone to rot in high humidity conditions.
Solutions
Remove the dry and rotten parts. Move the plant to a partially shaded area, providing protection from direct sunlight during midday and afternoon. Stop watering the plant until the weather becomes cooler.
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