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Swollen duckweed
Lemna gibba
Also known as : Gibbous duckweed, Gibbous duckweek, Duckweed
Lemna gibba, the gibbous duckweed, swollen duckweed, or fat duckweed, is a species of Lemna (duckweed). It has a simple plant body, known as a thallus, which floats on the surface of the water and measures 3 to 5 mm in diameter. A single root hangs down into the water. Found in a wide range of still or slow-flowing water bodies, this common duckweed can also grow on mud or damp rocks. 
Hardiness Zones
4 to 11
Care Guide for Swollen duckweed
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Swollen duckweed
Water
Every week
Sunlight
Full sun
Key Facts About Swollen duckweed
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Attributes of Swollen duckweed
Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Herb
Plant Height
4 mm
Spread
3 mm to 5 mm
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Color
Green
Ideal Temperature
5 - 38 ℃
Scientific Classification of Swollen duckweed
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Common Pests & Diseases About Swollen duckweed
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Common issues for Swollen duckweed based on 10 million real cases
Fire ants
Fire ants gnaw on the roots of plants and are aggressive toward people.
Solutions: Caution: fire ants are venomous and cause painful bites which can be fatal in the case of a rare but significant allergy. Fire ants can be a painful pest to have around for you and your plants. Keeping them under control will ensure comfortable gardening for all. For less severe cases: Physically remove mounds. Dig out and remove entire mounds (remember, they go deeper than they seem). Use citrus oil. Pour citrus oil, which is toxic to fire ants, down their holes. For severe cases: Use ant bait. For a chemical solution, broadcast insecticide bait formulated for fire ants in the area around a mound. Apply the bait during a dry evening so the ants can forage for it at night. Look for products that contain Indoxacarb. Release phorid flies. Introduce or promote beneficial phorid flies to gardens. These parasitic flies attack invasive fire ants. Hire a professional. Some ant baits are only available to professional exterminators. For serious cases of fire ants, consider hiring a professional.
Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Gray mold
Gray mold generates a gray-brown mold on the leaf surface that can be wiped away.
Solutions: Simple measures can be taken to reduce and stop the spread of gray mold. For minor fungus growth: Remove infected tissue. Remove and burn, dispose, or bury infected plants and plant parts. Infected parts can be deeply buried (at least 30 cm down) if burning is not permitted. Be sure to clean and disinfect pruning equipment to prevent the spread of infection. Do not compost infected parts. Remove debris. Clean between plants to prevent the spread to other surrounding plants. Pick up remaining debris around plants to reduce or eliminate mold spores from traveling to other plants. For more serious fungus growth: Use organic fungicide. Treat the entire plant with an organic fungicide as early as possible. A copper fungicide can be applied every 1-2 weeks once the plants are infected, and repeat until healed.
Leaf hoppers
Leefhopper insects are usually 3 to 10 mm long and brightly colored. They suck the sap from the plant.
Solutions: Leaf hoppers rarely cause enough damage to warrant control. Additionally, it is very difficult to kill the adults due to their ability to hop and move. Leaf hoppers have numerous natural enemies which often kill these pests before they cause serious damage. Populations can be controlled by releasing minute pirate bugs, lacewings, damsel bugs, and lady beetles. If leafhopper populations are causing extreme damage, apply insecticidal soap or neem oil. When spraying, make sure to coat the undersides of leaves. When the above measures have not provided control, a pyrethrin insecticide may be needed. This is more likely to kill nymphs than adults. Leaf hoppers, as a problem, are cured when their damage is at an acceptable level. It is difficult and often unnecessary to completely remove these insects from gardens.
Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Solutions: Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot. Improve air circulation and drainage Fertilize as needed Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.
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Fire ants
Fire ants gnaw on the roots of plants and are aggressive toward people.
Overview
Fire ants are a group of ants that are known for their aggressive behavior and painful stings. Some fire ants are native and others are invasive from other countries. Once they reach plants, they climb them and chew away at leaves and flower buds.
Fire ants also kill and eat beneficial insects such as caterpillars, ladybugs, mantis, and native ants. They can be a problem any time temperatures are above freezing, but new infestations are most likely to appear when brought in via contaminated material such as potting soil or mulch, or when insecticides have harmed populations of beneficial insects that would otherwise control populations of fire ants.
They can be difficult to control, especially once populations become large. Plant damage is typically minor, but fire ants can destroy seedlings.
Symptom Analysis
The number one symptom of fire ants is seeing the ants themselves which are red or black in color. Ant mounds in the ground are also signs. Fire ant mounds rarely exceed 46 cm in diameter. If a fire ant mound is disturbed, many fast-moving, aggressive ants will emerge. These ants will bite and then painfully sting.
Even if no ants are visible, their damage might be apparent. Chewed leaf and flower edges might indicate fire ants. Fully eaten seedlings are another sign.
Solutions
Caution: fire ants are venomous and cause painful bites which can be fatal in the case of a rare but significant allergy.
Fire ants can be a painful pest to have around for you and your plants. Keeping them under control will ensure comfortable gardening for all.
For less severe cases:
- Physically remove mounds. Dig out and remove entire mounds (remember, they go deeper than they seem).
- Use citrus oil. Pour citrus oil, which is toxic to fire ants, down their holes.
For severe cases:
- Use ant bait. For a chemical solution, broadcast insecticide bait formulated for fire ants in the area around a mound. Apply the bait during a dry evening so the ants can forage for it at night. Look for products that contain Indoxacarb.
- Release phorid flies. Introduce or promote beneficial phorid flies to gardens. These parasitic flies attack invasive fire ants.
- Hire a professional. Some ant baits are only available to professional exterminators. For serious cases of fire ants, consider hiring a professional.
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Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.
Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
- Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
- Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
- Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
- Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.
Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.
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Gray mold
Gray mold generates a gray-brown mold on the leaf surface that can be wiped away.
Overview
Gray mold is a fungal bloom that can be quite detrimental to plants. The fungus is not host-specific, attacking both herbaceous and woody plants. It is one of the most destructive plant pathogens, affecting many ornamental flowering plants, fruits, and vegetable species worldwide.
The fungal spores survive on dead plant tissues, and the dusty, grey spores spread via air currents or splashing water droplets to readily infect delicate tissues like flowers and fruits. Infection rates are highest in wet or very humid conditions. Because of this, gray mold is common in plants raised in greenhouses.
If the disease is mild, plants can recover once conditions become warm and dry again. In severe cases, the grey mold blocks sunlight and air from getting to the plant tissues, resulting in plant death. Once detected, fungicides can prevent transmission, but they do not treat the established infection.
Symptom Analysis
Most commonly, the plant will have dusty gray or darker brown fuzzy mold covering leaves, stems, flowers, or other plants parts. A closer look at the spots reveal damaged or decaying plant tissue, which is overtaken by the fuzzy spores. This is a classic sign of gray mold, a pathogenic fungus that feeds on the nutrients of dying plant material, and will eventually destroy healthy parts of plants once infected.
Flower petals may show brown spots, and infected buds may turn black or brown. Spots on leaves can form brown splotches that darken at the center as they increase in size. Blighting can affect entire leaves and progress down into the stems. This infection can result in death of the entire plant.
Disease Cause
Gray mold is caused by a fungal infection with Botrytis cinerea. It breeds in dead leaves and plant debris, creating spores that can spread to nearby living plants via wind or splashing water. Infections are more likely to occur under certain conditions:
- Plant injuries such as broken stems, damaged leaves, or pierced petals - the tissue becomes more susceptible to fungus when there are wounds that create openings into the plant.
- High humidity or overly moist conditions - Botrytis thrives in wet conditions. Water and wind carry spores that splash against plants and create the ideal conditions for fungus growth.
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Leaf hoppers
Leefhopper insects are usually 3 to 10 mm long and brightly colored. They suck the sap from the plant.
Overview
Leaf hoppers are a large category of sap-sucking insects. While colors differ between species, all leaf hoppers have slender bodies with narrow heads. Most adults are 3 to 6 mm long. They are agile insects that quickly scuttle or hop away from danger.
Leaf hoppers lay their eggs in plant tissue, which results in small bumps. The eggs hatch into nymphs which look like small, wingless versions of the adults. In cold climates, leaf hoppers survive the winters as eggs or adults. They may also migrate to warmer areas and migrate back once winter is over.
There are thousands of species of leaf hoppers. Some species eat only one plant family or genus while others eat a wide range of plants. Affected plants include vegetables, grasses, trees, and flowers. Small plants are more likely to be damaged at noticeable levels.
Leaf hoppers are common insects that are present in most environments. While they often feed on plants, they rarely cause damage that warrants intervention. Many predatory insects eat leaf hoppers, which helps keep their populations in check. Controlling leaf hoppers is very difficult, so it’s best to accept small numbers of these insect pests.
One major concern regarding leaf hoppers is their ability to spread diseases between plants. They are more common in areas where broad-spectrum insecticides have killed natural enemies.
Symptom Analysis
The most notable sign of leafhopper damage is many small dots on plant leaves. Damage rarely goes beyond this. In severe cases, leafhopper damage can lead to yellow or brown leaf edges as well as dying plant tips. If large numbers of leaf hoppers are present, entire leaves may discolor and drop.
These insects also leave behind small dark dots of excrement, usually on the undersides of leaves. One more sign to look for is the shed skins of developing nymphs on the undersides of leaves.
Solutions
Leaf hoppers rarely cause enough damage to warrant control. Additionally, it is very difficult to kill the adults due to their ability to hop and move.
- Leaf hoppers have numerous natural enemies which often kill these pests before they cause serious damage. Populations can be controlled by releasing minute pirate bugs, lacewings, damsel bugs, and lady beetles.
- If leafhopper populations are causing extreme damage, apply insecticidal soap or neem oil. When spraying, make sure to coat the undersides of leaves.
- When the above measures have not provided control, a pyrethrin insecticide may be needed. This is more likely to kill nymphs than adults.
Leaf hoppers, as a problem, are cured when their damage is at an acceptable level. It is difficult and often unnecessary to completely remove these insects from gardens.
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Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Overview
If there are brown or black spots on the unripened fruits of plants, there is a good chance that fruit Spot could be to blame. This is an informal term used to describe several types of diseases that all cause these same symptoms: unattractive spots on fruits and vegetables.
There are a few different culprits behind fruit Spot, including bacterial spot, bacterial speck, and other related diseases (like early blight). Here are some symptoms and potential solutions to consider.
Symptom Analysis
The symptoms of fruit Spot vary depending on which type of plant is affected as well as by which specific pathogen is to blame. Just about every type of plant can be affected by fruit Spot, including tomatoes, pears, plums, onions, strawberries, celery, peaches, and more.
Here are some examples of potential symptoms:
Small Fruit Spot
Small spots are most commonly associated with bacterial speck.
- Spots may appear on fruits as well as leaves and other aboveground areas of the plant
- Small black specks appear on infected fruits (spots are less than 1/16” in diameter)
- Spots are raised with distinct margins, developing into sunken pits as the fruit matures
- Fruit tissue near the spot stays green longer than the rest of the fruit
- Spots are dark brown to black in color, with nearby spots often growing together
Large Fruit Spot
Large spots are often seen on plants suffering from bacterial spot, early blight, and related diseases.
- Spots are large, sometimes larger than 1.3 cm
- Some spots may look like targets with a brown to greyish coloration
- Older spots are black and raised with lobed borders
- Spots are superficial only, not penetrating into the seed cavity
- Spots may turn into sunken pits, turning into craters as they get older
- The skin of the fruit can be cracked and produce a water-soaked border
- Some spots may ooze a gelatinous substance
Disease Cause
There are a few culprits behind the fruit Spot. These depend on the pathogen as well as the type of plant. Bacterial speck and bacterial spot are both common diseases that can affect tomatoes, ground cherries, and other plants.
Bacterial speck is caused by Pseudomonas syringae. First discovered in the United States in 1933, it is most common in tomatoes and nearby weeds but can affect other kinds of plants and their fruits, too. It is more prevalent in low temperatures (less than 24 ℃) and high moisture.
Bacterial spot is caused by Xanthomonas campestris pv. Vesicatoria. First discovered in Texas in 1912, this disease is more common in warm weather and conditions of high moisture.
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Distribution of Swollen duckweed
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Habitat of Swollen duckweed
Floating in nutrient-rich quiet waters
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere
Distribution Map of Swollen duckweed
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info on Swollen Duckweed Growth and Care
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Basic Care Guide
Temperature
-25 - 43 ℃
Swollen duckweed is native to environments with a broad temperature range, thriving between 41 to 100 °F (5 to 38 ℃). It favors temperate climates and adjusts well to seasonal temperature fluctuations. Even so, careful temperature regulation is recommended for optimal growth.
Temp for Healthy Growth 
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About
Care Guide
More Info
Pests & Diseases
Distribution
More About How-Tos
Swollen duckweed
Lemna gibba
Also known as: Gibbous duckweed, Gibbous duckweek, Duckweed
Lemna gibba, the gibbous duckweed, swollen duckweed, or fat duckweed, is a species of Lemna (duckweed). It has a simple plant body, known as a thallus, which floats on the surface of the water and measures 3 to 5 mm in diameter. A single root hangs down into the water. Found in a wide range of still or slow-flowing water bodies, this common duckweed can also grow on mud or damp rocks.
Hardiness Zones
4 to 11
Care Guide for Swollen duckweed
Feedback
Know the light your plants really get.
Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.
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Key Facts About Swollen duckweed
Feedback
Attributes of Swollen duckweed
Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Herb
Plant Height
4 mm
Spread
3 mm to 5 mm
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Color
Green
Ideal Temperature
5 - 38 ℃
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Scientific Classification of Swollen duckweed
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Common Pests & Diseases About Swollen duckweed
Feedback
Common issues for Swollen duckweed based on 10 million real cases
Fire ants
Fire ants gnaw on the roots of plants and are aggressive toward people.
Solutions: Caution: fire ants are venomous and cause painful bites which can be fatal in the case of a rare but significant allergy. Fire ants can be a painful pest to have around for you and your plants. Keeping them under control will ensure comfortable gardening for all. For less severe cases: Physically remove mounds. Dig out and remove entire mounds (remember, they go deeper than they seem). Use citrus oil. Pour citrus oil, which is toxic to fire ants, down their holes. For severe cases: Use ant bait. For a chemical solution, broadcast insecticide bait formulated for fire ants in the area around a mound. Apply the bait during a dry evening so the ants can forage for it at night. Look for products that contain Indoxacarb. Release phorid flies. Introduce or promote beneficial phorid flies to gardens. These parasitic flies attack invasive fire ants. Hire a professional. Some ant baits are only available to professional exterminators. For serious cases of fire ants, consider hiring a professional.
Learn More About the Fire ants ![more]()
Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Learn More About the Fruit withering ![more]()
Gray mold
Gray mold generates a gray-brown mold on the leaf surface that can be wiped away.
Solutions: Simple measures can be taken to reduce and stop the spread of gray mold. For minor fungus growth: Remove infected tissue. Remove and burn, dispose, or bury infected plants and plant parts. Infected parts can be deeply buried (at least 30 cm down) if burning is not permitted. Be sure to clean and disinfect pruning equipment to prevent the spread of infection. Do not compost infected parts. Remove debris. Clean between plants to prevent the spread to other surrounding plants. Pick up remaining debris around plants to reduce or eliminate mold spores from traveling to other plants. For more serious fungus growth: Use organic fungicide. Treat the entire plant with an organic fungicide as early as possible. A copper fungicide can be applied every 1-2 weeks once the plants are infected, and repeat until healed.
Learn More About the Gray mold ![more]()
Leaf hoppers
Leefhopper insects are usually 3 to 10 mm long and brightly colored. They suck the sap from the plant.
Solutions: Leaf hoppers rarely cause enough damage to warrant control. Additionally, it is very difficult to kill the adults due to their ability to hop and move. Leaf hoppers have numerous natural enemies which often kill these pests before they cause serious damage. Populations can be controlled by releasing minute pirate bugs, lacewings, damsel bugs, and lady beetles. If leafhopper populations are causing extreme damage, apply insecticidal soap or neem oil. When spraying, make sure to coat the undersides of leaves. When the above measures have not provided control, a pyrethrin insecticide may be needed. This is more likely to kill nymphs than adults. Leaf hoppers, as a problem, are cured when their damage is at an acceptable level. It is difficult and often unnecessary to completely remove these insects from gardens.
Learn More About the Leaf hoppers ![more]()
Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Solutions: Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot. Improve air circulation and drainage Fertilize as needed Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.
Learn More About the Fruit Spot ![more]()
Treat and prevent plant diseases.
AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
Download the App
Fire ants
Fire ants gnaw on the roots of plants and are aggressive toward people.
Overview
Fire ants are a group of ants that are known for their aggressive behavior and painful stings. Some fire ants are native and others are invasive from other countries. Once they reach plants, they climb them and chew away at leaves and flower buds.
Fire ants also kill and eat beneficial insects such as caterpillars, ladybugs, mantis, and native ants. They can be a problem any time temperatures are above freezing, but new infestations are most likely to appear when brought in via contaminated material such as potting soil or mulch, or when insecticides have harmed populations of beneficial insects that would otherwise control populations of fire ants.
They can be difficult to control, especially once populations become large. Plant damage is typically minor, but fire ants can destroy seedlings.
Symptom Analysis
The number one symptom of fire ants is seeing the ants themselves which are red or black in color. Ant mounds in the ground are also signs. Fire ant mounds rarely exceed 46 cm in diameter. If a fire ant mound is disturbed, many fast-moving, aggressive ants will emerge. These ants will bite and then painfully sting.
Even if no ants are visible, their damage might be apparent. Chewed leaf and flower edges might indicate fire ants. Fully eaten seedlings are another sign.
Solutions
Caution: fire ants are venomous and cause painful bites which can be fatal in the case of a rare but significant allergy.
Fire ants can be a painful pest to have around for you and your plants. Keeping them under control will ensure comfortable gardening for all.
For less severe cases:
- Physically remove mounds. Dig out and remove entire mounds (remember, they go deeper than they seem).
- Use citrus oil. Pour citrus oil, which is toxic to fire ants, down their holes.
For severe cases:
- Use ant bait. For a chemical solution, broadcast insecticide bait formulated for fire ants in the area around a mound. Apply the bait during a dry evening so the ants can forage for it at night. Look for products that contain Indoxacarb.
- Release phorid flies. Introduce or promote beneficial phorid flies to gardens. These parasitic flies attack invasive fire ants.
- Hire a professional. Some ant baits are only available to professional exterminators. For serious cases of fire ants, consider hiring a professional.
Prevention
Fire ants become more difficult to control as they establish themselves, so try to prevent them or treat them early.
- Monitor new material. Do not bring in any soil or plants from known infested areas, unless if they are "Quarantine Approved." Make sure to check new material for fire ants.
- Apply insecticide. Some warm and humid areas have high fire ants populations. In these areas, spread a granular fire ants insecticide such as Varsity in the spring near gardens to prevent these unwelcome visitors.
- Treat early. Spot treat at the first sight of any fire ants mound, as larger mounds are more difficult to treat.
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Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.
Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
- Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
- Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
- Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
- Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.
Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.
Solutions
There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering:
- Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost.
- Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Prevention
Preventative measures include:
- Ensuring adequate spacing between plants or trees.
- Staking plants that are prone to tumbling to prevent moisture or humidity build up.
- Prune correctly so that there is adequate air movement and remove any dead or diseased branches that may carry spores.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing fallen material and destroying it as soon as possible.
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Gray mold
Gray mold generates a gray-brown mold on the leaf surface that can be wiped away.
Overview
Gray mold is a fungal bloom that can be quite detrimental to plants. The fungus is not host-specific, attacking both herbaceous and woody plants. It is one of the most destructive plant pathogens, affecting many ornamental flowering plants, fruits, and vegetable species worldwide.
The fungal spores survive on dead plant tissues, and the dusty, grey spores spread via air currents or splashing water droplets to readily infect delicate tissues like flowers and fruits. Infection rates are highest in wet or very humid conditions. Because of this, gray mold is common in plants raised in greenhouses.
If the disease is mild, plants can recover once conditions become warm and dry again. In severe cases, the grey mold blocks sunlight and air from getting to the plant tissues, resulting in plant death. Once detected, fungicides can prevent transmission, but they do not treat the established infection.
Symptom Analysis
Most commonly, the plant will have dusty gray or darker brown fuzzy mold covering leaves, stems, flowers, or other plants parts. A closer look at the spots reveal damaged or decaying plant tissue, which is overtaken by the fuzzy spores. This is a classic sign of gray mold, a pathogenic fungus that feeds on the nutrients of dying plant material, and will eventually destroy healthy parts of plants once infected.
Flower petals may show brown spots, and infected buds may turn black or brown. Spots on leaves can form brown splotches that darken at the center as they increase in size. Blighting can affect entire leaves and progress down into the stems. This infection can result in death of the entire plant.
Disease Cause
Gray mold is caused by a fungal infection with Botrytis cinerea. It breeds in dead leaves and plant debris, creating spores that can spread to nearby living plants via wind or splashing water. Infections are more likely to occur under certain conditions:
- Plant injuries such as broken stems, damaged leaves, or pierced petals - the tissue becomes more susceptible to fungus when there are wounds that create openings into the plant.
- High humidity or overly moist conditions - Botrytis thrives in wet conditions. Water and wind carry spores that splash against plants and create the ideal conditions for fungus growth.
Solutions
Simple measures can be taken to reduce and stop the spread of gray mold.
For minor fungus growth:
- Remove infected tissue. Remove and burn, dispose, or bury infected plants and plant parts. Infected parts can be deeply buried (at least 30 cm down) if burning is not permitted. Be sure to clean and disinfect pruning equipment to prevent the spread of infection. Do not compost infected parts.
- Remove debris. Clean between plants to prevent the spread to other surrounding plants. Pick up remaining debris around plants to reduce or eliminate mold spores from traveling to other plants.
For more serious fungus growth:
- Use organic fungicide. Treat the entire plant with an organic fungicide as early as possible. A copper fungicide can be applied every 1-2 weeks once the plants are infected, and repeat until healed.
Prevention
As with most fungal diseases, it is far easier to take steps to prevent gray mold than it is to treat it once it appears. Here are some steps.
- Use proper spacing. When first planting plants, space plants apart at the recommended spacing. Be sure that they are getting enough air flow and water will not collect between them.
- Apply mulch around plants. A good organic mulch spread directly around plants can prevent water splashing mold spores up to them.
- Keep plants dry. Do not overhead water. Use drip irrigation or water at the base to prevent leaves from becoming too wet and inviting mold growth.
- Be careful not to wound plants. Wounded parts make plants more susceptible to fungus. Take care when harvesting, pruning, or caring for the garden to prevent unnecessary plant injury.
- Sanitize. Make sure to sanitize pruning equipment and other garden tools to prevent the spread of pathogens.
- Use fungicide. To prevent gray mold from getting started, apply a fungicide in the early spring.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Leaf hoppers
Leefhopper insects are usually 3 to 10 mm long and brightly colored. They suck the sap from the plant.
Overview
Leaf hoppers are a large category of sap-sucking insects. While colors differ between species, all leaf hoppers have slender bodies with narrow heads. Most adults are 3 to 6 mm long. They are agile insects that quickly scuttle or hop away from danger.
Leaf hoppers lay their eggs in plant tissue, which results in small bumps. The eggs hatch into nymphs which look like small, wingless versions of the adults. In cold climates, leaf hoppers survive the winters as eggs or adults. They may also migrate to warmer areas and migrate back once winter is over.
There are thousands of species of leaf hoppers. Some species eat only one plant family or genus while others eat a wide range of plants. Affected plants include vegetables, grasses, trees, and flowers. Small plants are more likely to be damaged at noticeable levels.
Leaf hoppers are common insects that are present in most environments. While they often feed on plants, they rarely cause damage that warrants intervention. Many predatory insects eat leaf hoppers, which helps keep their populations in check. Controlling leaf hoppers is very difficult, so it’s best to accept small numbers of these insect pests.
One major concern regarding leaf hoppers is their ability to spread diseases between plants. They are more common in areas where broad-spectrum insecticides have killed natural enemies.
Symptom Analysis
The most notable sign of leafhopper damage is many small dots on plant leaves. Damage rarely goes beyond this. In severe cases, leafhopper damage can lead to yellow or brown leaf edges as well as dying plant tips. If large numbers of leaf hoppers are present, entire leaves may discolor and drop.
These insects also leave behind small dark dots of excrement, usually on the undersides of leaves. One more sign to look for is the shed skins of developing nymphs on the undersides of leaves.
Solutions
Leaf hoppers rarely cause enough damage to warrant control. Additionally, it is very difficult to kill the adults due to their ability to hop and move.
- Leaf hoppers have numerous natural enemies which often kill these pests before they cause serious damage. Populations can be controlled by releasing minute pirate bugs, lacewings, damsel bugs, and lady beetles.
- If leafhopper populations are causing extreme damage, apply insecticidal soap or neem oil. When spraying, make sure to coat the undersides of leaves.
- When the above measures have not provided control, a pyrethrin insecticide may be needed. This is more likely to kill nymphs than adults.
Leaf hoppers, as a problem, are cured when their damage is at an acceptable level. It is difficult and often unnecessary to completely remove these insects from gardens.
Prevention
- Encourage beneficial insects by planting a wide variety of plants.
- Avoid applying broad-spectrum insecticides that can kill the natural enemies of leaf hoppers.
- Remove plant debris in the fall to get rid of overwintering eggs and adults.
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Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Overview
If there are brown or black spots on the unripened fruits of plants, there is a good chance that fruit Spot could be to blame. This is an informal term used to describe several types of diseases that all cause these same symptoms: unattractive spots on fruits and vegetables.
There are a few different culprits behind fruit Spot, including bacterial spot, bacterial speck, and other related diseases (like early blight). Here are some symptoms and potential solutions to consider.
Symptom Analysis
The symptoms of fruit Spot vary depending on which type of plant is affected as well as by which specific pathogen is to blame. Just about every type of plant can be affected by fruit Spot, including tomatoes, pears, plums, onions, strawberries, celery, peaches, and more.
Here are some examples of potential symptoms:
Small Fruit Spot
Small spots are most commonly associated with bacterial speck.
- Spots may appear on fruits as well as leaves and other aboveground areas of the plant
- Small black specks appear on infected fruits (spots are less than 1/16” in diameter)
- Spots are raised with distinct margins, developing into sunken pits as the fruit matures
- Fruit tissue near the spot stays green longer than the rest of the fruit
- Spots are dark brown to black in color, with nearby spots often growing together
Large Fruit Spot
Large spots are often seen on plants suffering from bacterial spot, early blight, and related diseases.
- Spots are large, sometimes larger than 1.3 cm
- Some spots may look like targets with a brown to greyish coloration
- Older spots are black and raised with lobed borders
- Spots are superficial only, not penetrating into the seed cavity
- Spots may turn into sunken pits, turning into craters as they get older
- The skin of the fruit can be cracked and produce a water-soaked border
- Some spots may ooze a gelatinous substance
Disease Cause
There are a few culprits behind the fruit Spot. These depend on the pathogen as well as the type of plant. Bacterial speck and bacterial spot are both common diseases that can affect tomatoes, ground cherries, and other plants.
Bacterial speck is caused by Pseudomonas syringae. First discovered in the United States in 1933, it is most common in tomatoes and nearby weeds but can affect other kinds of plants and their fruits, too. It is more prevalent in low temperatures (less than 24 ℃) and high moisture.
Bacterial spot is caused by Xanthomonas campestris pv. Vesicatoria. First discovered in Texas in 1912, this disease is more common in warm weather and conditions of high moisture.
Solutions
- Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot.
- Improve air circulation and drainage
- Fertilize as needed
- Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.
Prevention
There are several ways to prevent both types of fruit Spot from affecting yields and harvests:
- Rotate crops - do not plant the same kind of plant in the same spot each year, instead switching out locations every two to three years
- Use disease-free seeds and transplants - using a hot water treatment to sterilize seeds before planting can also be effective
- Irrigate early in the day to give plants time to dry off before nightfall
- Avoid working around plants when they are wet
- Control weeds
- Remove debris or plow it under at the end of the growing season
- Fertilize with higher amounts of nitrogen and use less calcium
- Plant resistant cultivars when available
- Do not clip plants when transplanting
- Dispose of affected plant parts immediately (do not compost)
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Distribution of Swollen duckweed
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Habitat of Swollen duckweed
Floating in nutrient-rich quiet waters
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere
Distribution Map of Swollen duckweed
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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Temperature
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care. Essentials
Swollen duckweed is native to environments with a broad temperature range, thriving between 41 to 100 °F (5 to 38 ℃). It favors temperate climates and adjusts well to seasonal temperature fluctuations. Even so, careful temperature regulation is recommended for optimal growth.
Regional wintering strategies
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