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Arborescent pricklypear
Arborescent pricklypear
Arborescent pricklypear
Arborescent pricklypear
Arborescent pricklypear
Arborescent pricklypear
Arborescent pricklypear
Opuntia leucotricha
Also known as : Polka dots
Arborescent pricklypear is a species of cactus once found only in the mountains of Mexico. It is now considered an invasive species in southern North America. It produces yellow flowers which are followed by yellow fruits. This species can grow up to 3.5 m tall.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
9 to 11
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care guide

Care Guide for Arborescent pricklypear

Watering Care
Watering Care
Drought-tolerant. Allow the soil to dry completely between watering.
Details on Watering Care Watering Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilization once every 2-3 months during the growing season.
Details on Fertilizing Care Fertilizing Care
Soil Care
Soil Care
Slightly acidic, Neutral
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
What Are the Lighting Requirements for Arborescent pricklypear?
What Are the Lighting Requirements for Arborescent pricklypear?
Full sun, Partial sun
Details on Sunlight Requirements What Are the Lighting Requirements for Arborescent pricklypear?
What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Arborescent pricklypear?
What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Arborescent pricklypear?
9 to 11
Details on Temperature What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Arborescent pricklypear?
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Arborescent pricklypear
Water
Water
Every 3 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
question

Questions About Arborescent pricklypear

Watering Watering Watering
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What should I do if I water my Arborescent pricklypear too much or too little?
Underwatered Arborescent pricklypear
Arborescent pricklypear and other succulents can endure long periods without water, so it’s unusual to find one of these suffering from underwatering. But, if you somehow forgot about your plant and neglected to water it for a month or more, you’ll probably find your Arborescent pricklypear looking thirsty or with some damage from lack of watering.
It is very easy to identify an underwatered Arborescent pricklypear. Plant look lacklustre and wrinkled. Some may have dried up completely, turned brown and crispy, or dropped off the plant. And of course, the soil will be completely dried out.
If your Arborescent pricklypear is thirsty and underwatered, give it plenty of water as soon as possible. Submerging the pot entirely in water for about 5-10 minutes is a good way to make sure the soil and plant are rehydrated properly. When you feel a sense of moisture on the surface of the soil with your finger, it means the watering is done properly.
Overwatered Arborescent pricklypear
Overwatering is dangerous to Arborescent pricklypear and can be fatal to your plant if you don’t remedy the situation. Too much moisture over time leads to root rot, which prevents the roots from being able to absorb nutrients and water from the soil. Root rot occurs when wet conditions allow fungi and bacteria to flourish in the soil and feed on roots. When you find that it's overwatered, you'd better change the growing conditions, place it somewhere with more air ventilation and adjust water frequency, for example.
The symptoms of overwatering are yellow, swollen, and translucent organs that may even burst open from being over-full with water. If the problem continues without being treated, plant might turn brown or black, and fall off the plant at the slightest touch. Be sure to check the soil to determine if overwatering is the culprit, as some other issues can cause similar symptoms.
It’s a bit difficult (but not impossible) to save an overwatered plant. The key is catching it early before a lot of damage has occurred. If the roots become rotten, it is likely to kill the entire plant. If you suspect you have overwatered your Arborescent pricklypear, the first step is to remove it from its pot and check the roots and soil.
After removing the plant from its pot, gently remove wet soil from around the roots and then rinse them clean in room-temperature water. This helps with removing fungus that might be lurking in the soil and allows you to get a better sense of how healthy the roots are. If your plant has already developed root rot, you will see roots that are dark brown or black, soft, mushy, or slimy.
If the majority of the roots are already affected by root rot, it may not be possible to save the plant. In this case, it is best to remove any healthy stem and try to use these to propagate a new Arborescent pricklypear. If, on the other hand, only a portion of the roots have succumbed to rot and other healthy roots still remain, there is a chance it can be saved.
Use a sterilized cutting tool to remove any unhealthy-looking roots. Once you're left with only the firm, pale roots, it’s a good idea to dip them in a fungicide to kill off any remaining spores. After that you can repot your Arborescent pricklypear in fresh, free-draining potting soil. While this does not always work to save a succulent with root rot, in most cases this plant will be able to make a full recovery and will put out new growth starting in the next growing season.
Read More more
How often should I water my Arborescent pricklypear?
There’s not a hard-and-fast rule for how often to water Arborescent pricklypear. The best way to determine this is to check the soil and only water when it’s bone dry. You can either stick your finger in the pot or use a moisture meter to check the soil below the surface. When you plant it in a deep pot, you can do this with a stick or chopstick. If it feels even a little bit moist, wait a few days and check it again.
Most people will need to water Arborescent pricklypear about every two weeks in summer and once a month in winter, but there are several factors that can change the frequency. The section below lists some considerations that can help you to determine how often to water.
Read More more
What should I consider when watering my Arborescent pricklypear?
There are several environmental conditions that will affect how your Arborescent pricklypear needs to be watered, including the container size, soil type, temperature, and humidity.
First off, the container and soil you use will determine how often to water and how much water to use each time. Be sure you use a container with plenty of drainage holes in the bottom so extra water can escape the pot. A small container has less room for soil, meaning it won’t hold as much moisture, while a larger pot will stay wet longer and need to be watered less often. It’s important not to keep your Arborescent pricklypear in an oversized pot as this can easily lead to overwatering. When repotting, move to just one size larger than the current container. A shallow container works better than a deep one, since Arborescent pricklypear has shallow root systems.
Arborescent pricklypear will need to be watered less often in winter and more often in the active growing season in spring and autumn. During the winter, growth slows down considerably and the plant isn’t using much energy or water. There is less water lost to evaporation in cooler winter air, meaning that soil stays wet for much longer than it would in the summer.
This also applies to the general climate around your home. If you live in a humid location with a lot of rain, you will need to water less often than if you live in a dry, arid climate. Remember that conditions at the same geographic location can vary significantly with the season and the use of indoor heating and air conditioning.
Outdoor Planting
If Arborescent pricklypear is planted in the ground, after establishing a root system, it shouldn’t need supplemental water beyond what it receives through precipitation and dew. But if there is a long dry period, you may want to water occasionally. In other areas where Arborescent pricklypear can only be grown in a container, this plant can be moved outside in the spring and summer when the temperature is proper and then brought back inside when temperatures start to drop. A potted Arborescent pricklypear kept outside usually needs more water than the same plant kept indoors, because there is a lot more sun exposure even on a shaded porch.
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How to water Arborescent pricklypear?
The best way to water Arborescent pricklypear is to soak it thoroughly and then allow it to dry out before it gets watered again. Since this plant is somewhat drought tolerant, you can let it get quite dry before watering again. It is always better to give this type of plant too little water over too much.
When you water, make sure the soil gets thoroughly soaked throughout the whole pot. Don’t pour the water in just one spot, but rather try to go around the whole rim of the planter to be sure that it has a chance to get wet on all sides of the plant. The correct amount of water will depend on the size of your container and how much water your soil absorbs. Give your Arborescent pricklypear enough water that it drains out from the drainage holes and then (ideally) leave the drained water in the saucer for about 20-30 minutes to absorb into dry pockets of soil. After that, discard any excess water that’s still in the saucer to avoid the soil getting waterlogged.
Bottom-watering is also an excellent method for Arborescent pricklypear, as you can be sure that the soil gets thoroughly moistened. This process involves placing the pot into a saucer of water and allowing the soil to absorb moisture through the drainage holes. You will know that the soil has absorbed enough water when the top layer is moist. This takes a bit more time than top-watering, but is almost foolproof in getting an even distribution of water throughout the pot.
The original habitat of Arborescent pricklypear is relatively dry with little rain, but when it rains, the soil will be thoroughly moistened. So you can mimic this situation by bottom-watering your plant when the soil is totally dry. Deep soil bathing is better than frequent light watering for Arborescent pricklypear.
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Key Facts About Arborescent pricklypear

Attributes of Arborescent pricklypear

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Succulent
Bloom Time
All year around
Plant Height
5 m
Spread
15 cm to 30 cm
Flower Size
5 cm to 7 cm
Flower Color
Yellow
Leaf type
Evergreen

Scientific Classification of Arborescent pricklypear

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Common Pests & Diseases About Arborescent pricklypear

Common issues for Arborescent pricklypear based on 10 million real cases
Scars
Scars Scars
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Stem rot
Stem rot Stem rot
Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do. Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible. Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots. Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized. Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium. Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water. For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
Low light
Low light Low light
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
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Scars
plant poor
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Stem rot
plant poor
Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Overview
Stem rot is a serious disease and can affect many different types of plants. it can be particularly prevalent when the temperature of the soil is over 16 ℃ and there's a lot of moisture in the soil. This could be from unusually heavy rainfalls or too much irrigation. Once stem rot sets in, it's very difficult to get rid of the disease and most affected plants will have to be discarded. This is especially the case for vegetables, herbs, and other herbaceous plants that have soft stems. This is why it's important to ensure that the soil used for growing these plants is well-drained and that overwatering is avoided. Using good cultural practices also help in curbing these types of fungal diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Plants that have been affected by stem rot will first display a yellowing of the lower leaves. This is followed by obvious wilting and stunted growth.
If the stem of the affected plant is examined closely, there will be some dark discolorations starting near the base and moving upward. If the roots of affected plants are examined, they will appear dark and mushy instead of white and healthy-looking. Eventually, the entire plant will wilt and die.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Stem rot is caused by a variety of soil-borne fungus pathogens. The type of fungus depends on the species of plant that is affected. Two fungi responsible for stem rot are Rhizoctonia and Fusarium. These fungal pathogens live in soil and migrate to the plant when conditions are optimum. This includes warm, humid weather and excessive soil moisture. Commonly, vegetable seedlings are affected by these fungi.
Sclerotinia sclerotiorum is another fungus that causes stem rot in plants. This fungus has a host range of over 350 different species of plants. Plants most susceptible to this fungus include many vegetable varieties such as cucumbers, beans, cilantro, carrots, cabbage, melons, lettuce, peas, onions, tomatoes, pumpkins, and squash. This fungus can produce different symptoms in different species. In some cases, the fungus causes irregular spots on stems and other plant material that appear water-soaked. On other plant species, the fungus appears as dry lesions that grow and girdle the stem of the plant.
The third type of fungus that causes stem rot is Phytophthora capsici. Plants that belong to the cucumber family are most susceptible to this fungal infection. This fungus manifests as water-soaked lesions on the stems that then turn brown and girdle the stem.
All of these fungal pathogens are transmitted to the plant by water splashing from the soil up onto the plant. That's because the fungal spores live in the soil where they wait for the right conditions to infect the plants.
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Low light
plant poor
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
  1. Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
  2. There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
  3. All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
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distribution

Distribution of Arborescent pricklypear

Habitat of Arborescent pricklypear

Mountain habitats
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Arborescent pricklypear

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
habit
care_scenes

More Info on Arborescent Pricklypear Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
The arborescent pricklypear thrives under plentiful sun exposure, but can manage in areas with moderate sunlight. Its health and growth can potentially be compromised in habitats lacking abundant light. Despite being adjustable, too much or too little light can cause small growth or even sunburn.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
0 43 ℃
Arborescent pricklypear hails from a climate where temperatures fluctuate from 68 to 100 °F (20 to 38 ℃). Naturally, this plant thrives in temperate conditions. Adjustments may need to be made in colder seasons to maintain this temperature range.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
3-5 feet
To ensure successful transplanting of arborescent pricklypear, the 'placid period of late winter to early spring' is the ideal season. This timing allows arborescent pricklypear to recover and establish before intense summer heat arrives. Locate arborescent pricklypear in a sunny, well-drained spot to combat root rot. Remember! Work with gloves to avoid sharp spines.
Transplant Techniques
Feng shui direction
Southwest
The arborescent pricklypear exhibits a symbiotic relationship with the Southwest-facing direction. In Feng Shui, this direction resonates with Earth energy, matched impeccably by the grounded nature of the arborescent pricklypear. However, individual experiences with this plant may differ, a testament to the subjective nature of Feng Shui.
Fengshui Details
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Plants Related to Arborescent pricklypear

Poison ivy
Poison ivy
In pop culture, poison ivy is a symbol of an obnoxious weed because, despite its unthreatening looks, it gives a highly unpleasant contact rash to the unfortunate person who touches it. Still, it is commonly eaten by many animals, and the seeds are a favorite with birds. The leaves turn bright red in fall. Its sister species, Western poison ivy (Toxicodendron rydbergii), is not considered to be invasive in the United States, but is noxious in Australia and New Zealand.
Pokeweed
Pokeweed
Although its berries look juicy and tempting, the fruits and the root of pokeweed are toxic and should not be eaten. Pokeweed is considered a pest species by farmers but is nevertheless often grown as an ornamental plant. Its berries can be made into pokeberry ink as well.
Lambsquarters
Lambsquarters
Lambsquarters has many other names, including pigweed, goosefoot, and bacon weed. This plant seems to appear out of nowhere and is considered by many to be a pesky weed. However, the greens of this plant are edible, can be prepared similar to spinach, and are packed with nutrients.
Horseweed
Horseweed
Horseweed is a North American herbaceous annual plant with a hairy stem, numerous pointed leaves, and waxy inflorescence. It has been naturalized in Eurasia and Australia, where it is a common weed in urban and agricultural regions. Horseweed can be used in a survival situation to start a friction fire.
Common dandelion
Common dandelion
*Taraxacum officinale*, widely known as common dandelion, is a herbaceous perennial that can be found in temperate regions all over the world, in habitats with moist soils. The most popular feature of this plant is its fruits, furry spheres that are easily carried by the wind. Although it is generally considered a weed, common dandelion is actually edible and very nutritious.
Common purslane
Common purslane
Portulaca oleracea, colloquially known as common purslane, is an annual succulent species with reddish stems and tiny yellow, five-petal flowers. It is used for culinary purposes in various parts of the world, most often raw, in salads. Common purslane is also a good companion plant for crops that thrive in moist soils.
Black nightshade
Black nightshade
Black nightshade (Solanum nigrum) is a highly toxic plant and caution should be exercised around this plant. It's said that black nightshade fruits can technically be consumed if they are fully ripe and properly cooked and prepared. Generally though, due to the danger they present, no one would ever want to try to eat this plant.
Canada goldenrod
Canada goldenrod
The Solidago canadensis, colloquially known as canada goldenrod, is a perennial herb native to North America. This plant can be found growing in a variety of different habitats, and it often forms colonies. In many parts of Europe and East Asia, canada goldenrod is considered an invasive species.
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Arborescent pricklypear
Arborescent pricklypear
Arborescent pricklypear
Arborescent pricklypear
Arborescent pricklypear
Arborescent pricklypear
Arborescent pricklypear
Opuntia leucotricha
Also known as: Polka dots
Arborescent pricklypear is a species of cactus once found only in the mountains of Mexico. It is now considered an invasive species in southern North America. It produces yellow flowers which are followed by yellow fruits. This species can grow up to 3.5 m tall.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
9 to 11
more
question

Questions About Arborescent pricklypear

Watering Watering Watering
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What should I do if I water my Arborescent pricklypear too much or too little?
more
How often should I water my Arborescent pricklypear?
more
What should I consider when watering my Arborescent pricklypear?
more
How to water Arborescent pricklypear?
more
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close
plant_info

Key Facts About Arborescent pricklypear

Attributes of Arborescent pricklypear

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Succulent
Bloom Time
All year around
Plant Height
5 m
Spread
15 cm to 30 cm
Flower Size
5 cm to 7 cm
Flower Color
Yellow
Leaf type
Evergreen
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Scientific Classification of Arborescent pricklypear

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Arborescent pricklypear

Common issues for Arborescent pricklypear based on 10 million real cases
Scars
Scars Scars Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Learn More About the Scars more
Stem rot
Stem rot Stem rot Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do. Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible. Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots. Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized. Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium. Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water. For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
Learn More About the Stem rot more
Low light
Low light Low light Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Learn More About the Low light more
icon
Treat and prevent plant diseases.
AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
Download the App
close
Scars
plant poor
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Stem rot
plant poor
Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Overview
Stem rot is a serious disease and can affect many different types of plants. it can be particularly prevalent when the temperature of the soil is over 16 ℃ and there's a lot of moisture in the soil. This could be from unusually heavy rainfalls or too much irrigation. Once stem rot sets in, it's very difficult to get rid of the disease and most affected plants will have to be discarded. This is especially the case for vegetables, herbs, and other herbaceous plants that have soft stems. This is why it's important to ensure that the soil used for growing these plants is well-drained and that overwatering is avoided. Using good cultural practices also help in curbing these types of fungal diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Plants that have been affected by stem rot will first display a yellowing of the lower leaves. This is followed by obvious wilting and stunted growth.
If the stem of the affected plant is examined closely, there will be some dark discolorations starting near the base and moving upward. If the roots of affected plants are examined, they will appear dark and mushy instead of white and healthy-looking. Eventually, the entire plant will wilt and die.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Stem rot is caused by a variety of soil-borne fungus pathogens. The type of fungus depends on the species of plant that is affected. Two fungi responsible for stem rot are Rhizoctonia and Fusarium. These fungal pathogens live in soil and migrate to the plant when conditions are optimum. This includes warm, humid weather and excessive soil moisture. Commonly, vegetable seedlings are affected by these fungi.
Sclerotinia sclerotiorum is another fungus that causes stem rot in plants. This fungus has a host range of over 350 different species of plants. Plants most susceptible to this fungus include many vegetable varieties such as cucumbers, beans, cilantro, carrots, cabbage, melons, lettuce, peas, onions, tomatoes, pumpkins, and squash. This fungus can produce different symptoms in different species. In some cases, the fungus causes irregular spots on stems and other plant material that appear water-soaked. On other plant species, the fungus appears as dry lesions that grow and girdle the stem of the plant.
The third type of fungus that causes stem rot is Phytophthora capsici. Plants that belong to the cucumber family are most susceptible to this fungal infection. This fungus manifests as water-soaked lesions on the stems that then turn brown and girdle the stem.
All of these fungal pathogens are transmitted to the plant by water splashing from the soil up onto the plant. That's because the fungal spores live in the soil where they wait for the right conditions to infect the plants.
Solutions
Solutions
If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do.
  1. Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible.
  2. Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots.
  3. Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized.
  4. Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium.
  5. Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water.
For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
Prevention
Prevention
For outdoor gardens:
  1. Raking the garden thoroughly in the springtime will help to cut down on pathogens that may be living in the soil.
  2. Using a copper fungicide on plants in the springtime will cut down on fungal growth and prevent the spread of infection.
  3. Placing a heavy layer of mulch on top of the soil will also prevent pathogens from splashing up onto the stems of plants.
  4. Place plants at the recommended spacing to encourage better air flow between them.
  5. Water plants at the base instead of overhead to prevent excessive moisture on foliage.
For indoor plants:
  1. Avoid overwatering houseplants and ensure the roots do not sit in water.
  2. Make sure that indoor plants receive adequate air circulation and light.
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Low light
plant poor
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
  1. Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
  2. There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
  3. All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
Solutions
Solutions
Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed.
  • Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn.
  • Introduce appropriate artificial lighting.
  • Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Prevention
Prevention
To avoid etiolation, provide an adequate amount of light from the beginning.
  1. Choose a location that matches each plant's ideal light needs. Many indoor plants do best in or near a south-facing window, which will provide the longest hours of sunlight. Flowering plants and those with colored leaves typically need more light than purely-green plants, as photosynthesis occurs in the green portions of leaves.
  2. Select plants with light needs that match a location's conditions. Some cultivars and varieties require less light than others.
  3. Use a grow light. Darker locations may require artificial illumination. A grow light may also become more necessary during winter, when sunlit hours are at their shortest.
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distribution

Distribution of Arborescent pricklypear

Habitat of Arborescent pricklypear

Mountain habitats
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Arborescent pricklypear

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Arborescent Pricklypear Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
The arborescent pricklypear thrives under plentiful sun exposure, but can manage in areas with moderate sunlight. Its health and growth can potentially be compromised in habitats lacking abundant light. Despite being adjustable, too much or too little light can cause small growth or even sunburn.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Arborescent pricklypear is a beloved choice for indoor gardening, and they require strong light to thrive. However, when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting, they may develop symptoms of light deficiency.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Arborescent pricklypear may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Arborescent pricklypear enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Arborescent pricklypear require strong light to thrive, and some are remarkably resilient to sun exposure, rarely suffering from sunburn.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Arborescent pricklypear hails from a climate where temperatures fluctuate from 68 to 100 °F (20 to 38 ℃). Naturally, this plant thrives in temperate conditions. Adjustments may need to be made in colder seasons to maintain this temperature range.
Regional wintering strategies
Arborescent pricklypear is a heat-loving plant that gradually stops growing and enters a dormant state during the winter. When the outdoor temperature drops below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it should be moved indoors for cultivation. Choose a location near a south-facing window to provide as much sunlight as possible. If there is insufficient natural light, supplemental lighting can be used. When the temperature falls below {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}, the plant's growth slows down, and watering should be reduced or stopped to prevent root rot. For Arborescent pricklypear grown outdoors, watering should be completely halted during low temperatures. If feasible, you can set up a temporary greenhouse for insulation or use materials such as plastic film or fabric to wrap the plant during cold temperatures.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Arborescent pricklypear thrives in high temperatures and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It grows best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the plant may become weak, wilt, and be prone to root rot. In cases of mild frost damage, there may not be any initial symptoms, but after a week, the plant will gradually wither.
Solutions
Trim off the frostbitten areas, paying attention to whether the roots have rotted. If the roots have rotted, they need to be cut off, and the plant can be propagated through cuttings. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment and place the plant near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. If there is insufficient light, you can use supplemental lighting.
High Temperature
During summer, Arborescent pricklypear should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant's growth will cease, it will experience water loss, wilting, and becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Remove the sunburned and rotten parts. Shield the plant from afternoon sunlight until it recovers and starts growing again. For plants with root rot, stop watering until new roots begin to emerge.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Arborescent Pricklypear?
To ensure successful transplanting of arborescent pricklypear, the 'placid period of late winter to early spring' is the ideal season. This timing allows arborescent pricklypear to recover and establish before intense summer heat arrives. Locate arborescent pricklypear in a sunny, well-drained spot to combat root rot. Remember! Work with gloves to avoid sharp spines.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Arborescent Pricklypear?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Arborescent Pricklypear?
The perfect time to move your friend arborescent pricklypear is during the late spring to early summer. This period provides arborescent pricklypear with the ideal conditions to root and grow. Reaching this phase ensures the plant's overall health and enables it to resist harsh weather conditions better. Nothing like seeing arborescent pricklypear thrive and flourish because of your careful planning and timing, right?
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Arborescent Pricklypear Plants?
Start preparing for your arborescent pricklypear by considering the spacing. Leave about 3 to 5 feet (about 0.9 to 1.5 meters) of space between each plant. This allows them to grow freely without overcrowding each other. Remember, they need room to grow and thrive!
What is the Best Soil Mix for Arborescent Pricklypear Transplanting?
Your arborescent pricklypear loves well-drained soil, preferably sand or loamy sand. Before you transplant, enrich the soil with a base fertilizer with high phosphorus content to promote proper root development. This step will give your arborescent pricklypear a healthy start!
Where Should You Relocate Your Arborescent Pricklypear?
Choose a location for your arborescent pricklypear that gets ample sunlight. They adore full sun to partial shade conditions. If possible, a spot where they get morning sun would be great! Remember, adequate sunlight is key to their vibrant growth.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Arborescent Pricklypear?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands from the plant's prickly surface and while handling soil.
Shovel or Spade
This will help you dig the plant up from its original location and create a new hole in the transplantation spot.
Garden Fork
To carefully lift the plant from the ground without damaging the roots.
A Pot (if applicable)
Necessary when transplanting from a pot to the ground.
Tarp or Wheelbarrow
To carry the arborescent pricklypear from its original location to the new spot.
Watering Can
For watering the plant both before and after transplanting.
Mulch
Mulch helps to maintain moisture in the soil after the plant has been transplanted.
Secateurs or Pruning Shears
To prune or trim any damaged parts of the arborescent pricklypear.
How Do You Remove Arborescent Pricklypear from the Soil?
From Ground: Initially, water the arborescent pricklypear gently to make the soil moist for easier digging. Then, using a shovel or spade, dig around the plant, leaving a generous amount of space to ensure the root ball is not damaged. Use the garden fork to gently lift the plant and its root ball out of the ground. If necessary, trim any damaged or long roots with the secateurs.
From Pot: First, water the arborescent pricklypear to moisten the soil. Then, gently tip the pot sideways and tap on the sides and bottom until the plant slides out, taking care to handle the root ball as gently as possible.
From Seedling Tray: Water the tray first. Then, gently push up from the bottom of the tray underneath the chosen seedling. Hold the leaves of the arborescent pricklypear and lift the seedling out, being mindful of the delicate roots.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Arborescent Pricklypear
Step1 Determine the Size
The hole you dig should be twice as wide and just as deep as the root ball. This ensures the roots can spread out. Place the arborescent pricklypear in the centre of the hole.
Step2 Prepare the Plant
Gently loosen the roots of the plant before placing it in the hole. If they're tightly coiled, uncoil them to promote spreading.
Step3 Positioning
Make sure the arborescent pricklypear is sitting at the same depth it was previously growing at. Planting too deep can harm the plant.
Step4 Filling
Backfill the hole with the soil you removed earlier, firming it gently around the arborescent pricklypear to ensure there are no air pockets.
Step5 Watering
Water the area thoroughly after planting to settle the soil.
Step6 Mulching
Mulch around the plant to retain water and reduce weed growth.
How Do You Care For Arborescent Pricklypear After Transplanting?
Monitoring
Keep an eye on the arborescent pricklypear after transplantation, looking for signs of transplant shock, such as wilting leaves or a lack of growth. Early detection makes recovery easier!
Watering
Consistently water the arborescent pricklypear, especially in the first few weeks after transplanting. However, do not overwater. If the soil feels dry to touch, it's time to water.
Pruning
Prune any dead, diseased or damaged parts of the arborescent pricklypear after transplanting. This helps the plant focus its energy on new growth.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Arborescent Pricklypear Transplantation.
When is the best time to transplant arborescent pricklypear?
The prime time to transplant arborescent pricklypear is early to mid-summer. These seasons are perfect for nurturing a fresh start.
What's the ideal spacing for arborescent pricklypear when transplanted?
Space your arborescent pricklypear plants at a distance of 3-5 feet (0.9-1.5 meters). This gives them sufficient room to grow and blossom.
How should I prepare the soil for arborescent pricklypear transplantation?
For arborescent pricklypear, well-draining soil is a must. Add some sand and compost to the planting hole to increase soil fertility and drainage.
Why are my transplanted arborescent pricklypear plants looking wilted?
If your arborescent pricklypear are wilting after transplantation, you might be over-watering. Arborescent pricklypear prefer dry climates, so water sparingly.
Should I transplant arborescent pricklypear in the sun or shade?
Arborescent pricklypear thrives best in the full sun. Choose a location where it'll have 6-8 hours of direct daily sunlight.
I've transplanted arborescent pricklypear but it's not growing. What did I do wrong?
Ensure your arborescent pricklypear isn't planted too deep. Plant it at the same depth as in the pot it came from for optimum growth.
Is it necessary to add any fertilizer during arborescent pricklypear transplantation?
Sure, a mild slow-release fertilizer at the time of planting arborescent pricklypear can boost its initial growth. But, avoid strong, high-nitrogen fertilizers.
How often should I water arborescent pricklypear after transplantation?
During the first few weeks, water arborescent pricklypear every 5-6 days. Once well established, arborescent pricklypear prefers infrequent, deep watering.
Can I transplant arborescent pricklypear from a pot to the ground?
Absolutely! Just remember to transplant arborescent pricklypear to a hole that's twice the size of the pot, maintaining the same planting depth.
What common pests or diseases should I watch out for after transplanting arborescent pricklypear?
Arborescent pricklypear is relatively pest-free but watch for mealybugs and scale insects. Cochineal scale causes a fluffy white infestation which can be rinsed off with water.
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