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Artillery plant
Pilea microphylla
Also known as : Artillery weed, Pistol plant
The artillery plant is often utilized as a groundcover or an ornamental in many landscapes. It's commonly named the "artillery plant" because the males generally produce pollen in an explosive way. It grows best in a humid environment in partial shade or indirect sunlight. It's a particularly popular plant in indoor rock gardens.
Water
Every week
Sunlight
Partial sun
Weeds
Care Guide for Artillery plant
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Watering Care
Moisture-loving, keep the soil moist but do not let water accumulate.
Fertilizing Care
Fertilization once every half month during the growing season.
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Artillery plant
Water
Every week
Sunlight
Partial sun
Hardiness Zones
9 to 12
Planting Time
Spring
Questions About Artillery plant
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Watering 
Sunlight 
Temperature What is the best way to water my Artillery plant?
When watering the Artillery plant, you should aim to use filtered water that is at room temperature. Filtered water is better for this plant, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to its health. The reason that the water should be at room temperature or slightly warmer is that the Artillery plant comes from a warm environment, and cold water can be somewhat of a shock to its system. Also, you should avoid overhead watering for this plant, as it can cause foliage complications. Instead, simply apply your filtered room temperature water to the soil until the soil is entirely soaked. Soaking the soil can be very beneficial for this plant as it moistens the roots and helps them continue to spread through the soil and collect the nutrients they need.
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What should I do if I water my Artillery plant too much or too little?
Both overwatering and underwatering will be detrimental to the health of your Artillery plant, but overwatering is a far more common issue. When this species receives too much water, its stems and leaves may begin to wilt and turn from green to yellow. Overwatering over a prolonged period may also lead to diseases such as root rot, mold, and mildew, all of which can kill your plant. Underwatering is far less common for the Artillery plant, as this plant has decent drought tolerance. However, underwatering remains a possibility, and when it occurs, you can expect to find that the leaves of your Artillery plant have become brittle and brown. It is crucial that you notice the signs of overwatering as soon as possible when caring for your Artillery plant. Some of the diseases that arise from overwatering, such as root rot, may not be correctable if you wait too long. If you see early signs of overwatering, you should reduce your watering schedule immediately. You may also want to assess the quality of soil in which your Artillery plant grows. If you find that the soil drains very poorly, you should replace it immediately with a loose, well-draining potting mix. On the other hand, if you find signs that your Artillery plant is receiving too little water, all you need to do is water more regularly until those signs have subsided.
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How often should I water my Artillery plant?
If your plant is in a pot. The most precise way to decide whether your Artillery plant needs water is to plunge your finger into the soil. If you notice that the first two to three inches of soil have become dry, it is time to add some water. If you grow your Artillery plant outdoors in the ground, you can use a similar method to test the soil. Again, when you find that the first few inches of soil have dried out, it is time to add water. During the spring and early fall, this method will often lead you to water this plant about once every week. When extremely hot weather arrives, you may need to increase your watering frequency to about twice or more per week. With that said, mature, well-established the Artillery plant can show an admirable ability to withstand drought.
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How much water does my Artillery plant need?
When it comes time to water your Artillery plant, you should not be shy about how much water you give. With the first two to three inches of soil dry, this plant will appreciate a long and thorough watering. Supply enough water to soak the soil entirely. The amount of water you add should be enough to cause excess water to flow through the drainage holes at the bottom of your pot. If you don’t see excess water draining from the pot, you have likely underwatered your plant. But do not let the water accumulate inside the soil, which will be very dangerous to the plant as well. Alternatively, a lack of water draining through the pot could indicate poorly draining soils, which is detrimental to the health of this plant and should be avoided. If the plant is outside, 1 inch of rain per week will be sufficient.
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How should I water my Artillery plant at different growth stages?
The water needs of the Artillery plant can change depending on growth stages as well. For example, when your Artillery plant is in the first few years of its life, or if you have just transplanted it to a new growing location, you will need to give more water than usual. During both of those stages, your Artillery plant will put a lot of energy towards sprouting new roots that will then support future growth. For those roots to perform their best, they need a bit more moisture than they would at a more mature phase. After a few seasons, your Artillery plant will need much less water. Another growth stage in which this plant may need more water is during the bloom period. Flower development can make use of a significant amount of moisture, which is why you might need to give your Artillery plant more water at this time.
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How should I water my Artillery plant through the seasons?
The Artillery plant will have its highest water needs during the hottest months of the year. During the height of summer, you may need to give this plant water more than once per week, depending on how fast the soil dries out. The opposite is true during the winter. In winter, your plant will enter a dormant phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. In fact, you may not need to water this plant at all during the winter months. However, if you do water during winter, you should not do so more than about once per month. Watering too much at this time will make it more likely that your Artillery plant will contract a disease.
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What's the difference between watering my Artillery plant indoors and outdoors?
It is most common to grow the Artillery plant indoors for any gardener that does not live in temperate and tropical regions. Those gardeners should consider the fact that soil in a container can dry out a bit faster than ground soil. Also, the presence of drying elements such as air conditioning units can cause your Artillery plant to need water on a more frequent basis as well. if you planted it outside. When that is the case, it’s likely you won’t need to water your Artillery plant very much at all. If you receive rainfall on a regular basis, that may be enough to keep your plant alive. Alternatively, those who grow this plant inside will need to water it more often, as allowing rainwater to soak the soil will not be an option.
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Key Facts About Artillery plant
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Attributes of Artillery plant
Lifespan
Perennial, Annual
Plant Type
Herb
Planting Time
Spring
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer, Fall
Harvest Time
Fall
Plant Height
17 cm
Spread
30 cm to 60 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
1 mm
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Pink
Green
Fruit Color
Brown
Stem Color
Green
Dormancy
Non-dormant
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃
Name story
Artillery clearweed||Artilleryweed||Artillery plant||Gunpowder plant||Rockweed
Artillery plant got its name from the ability to grow in rocks, walls, cracks in walkways and driveways, etc. It's also called Artilleryweed, Artillery plant, or Gunpowder plant. These names were derived from the plant's ability to forcefully send pollen from its flowers to the air, which can be easily observed by the naked eye.
Usages
Garden Use
A low-slung, warm-climate evergreen, the artillery plant is chosen by gardeners for its interesting fernlike rows of tiny leaves, its tolerance for shadier areas, and its dense growth, which crowds out weeds. It is most commonly used as a groundcover, but is also featured in rock gardens and planted to drape over the edges of stone walls.
Trivia and Interesting Facts
Artillery plant has a slightly invasive nature, easily becoming a weed in warm areas. The plant spreads quickly, and it's quite tolerable to various conditions and habitats, such as cracks in driveways and walkways.
Scientific Classification of Artillery plant
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Quickly Identify Artillery plant
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1
Lush mat of bright green, ovoid to lanceolate leaves (0.5 inches / 1.27 cm) on spreading stems.
2
Low height rarely exceeding 12 inches (30 cm), suitable for clusters and dense vegetative layer.
3
Small, inconspicuous flowers (0.1 inches / 2-3 mm) in leaf axils, lacking scent, integral plant component.
4
Fleshy, lanceolate to spatulate leaves (0.6 - 1.2 cm / 0.24 - 0.47 inches) with succulent texture.
5
Simple vein pattern with central midrib, bright green color contributing to delicate appearance.
Common Pests & Diseases About Artillery plant
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Common issues for Artillery plant based on 10 million real cases
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
- Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
- Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
- Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
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Weed Control About Artillery plant
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Weeds
Artillery plant is native from Mexico to Brazil, often rooting in moist soil along walls and rocky places in USDA zones 11 to 12. This plant has been recorded as invasive in forty-six countries, including Brazil, India, Ecuador, China, and Micronesia. Male specimens expel seeds into the air, giving rise to the name "artillery plant." Dispersed by the wind, these seeds will spread quickly if given a chance to take root. Artillery plant can be controlled by using chemical herbicides, and mechanical removal of seedlings by hand is also effective.
How to Control it
Once weeds are flowering and firm, it is difficult to effectively control them, so the best time for weeds to be removed is before flowering and firming; once flowering and firming, the seeds will spread very quickly and need to be removed frequently, and prevention should be made in the next year. Seed stage: It can be covered with sawdust, crop straw or black opaque film, which can effectively inhibit seed germination and weed seedling growth. This method is generally used in winter or spring to inhibit weed seeds from germinating in the soil; if weeds are already flowering and firm, this method can be used to isolate the seeds from the soil and reduce the number of seeds that fall into the soil. Unplugging: Before weeds are strong, wear gloves or use tools to dig out weeds. If the soil is difficult to remove due to drought, it can be used to thoroughly remove the roots of weeds after being irrigated with water. After removal, it can be used in conjunction with deep cultivation to prevent weed roots from remaining. This method is particularly suitable for weeds at the seedling stage or with a relatively low size. Pruning: Pruning before weeds can effectively control the spread of weeds, especially for annual weeds. Frequent pruning can suppress the growth and fruiting of weeds, which can effectively remove weeds that year. Tillage: Tillage the soil before cultivation, pick up and discard perennial weed roots, expose to the sun, or bury it deeply. It can also be used to make organic fertilizer and compost with weeds. Chemical control: The weeds can be effectively removed by competing herbicides. Note: When removing weeds, you need to wear gloves to avoid direct contact between the body and the weeds, especially for some toxic, thorny, sensitive mucous weeds. When cleaning weeds during flowering, you need to wear a special mask to prevent allergies caused by inhaling pollen.
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Distribution of Artillery plant
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Habitat of Artillery plant
Waste places, hammocks, rocky woods, cultivated plots, masonry
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere
Distribution Map of Artillery plant
The plant known as artillery plant is native to Central and South America as well as the Caribbean islands. It has been introduced to various regions across Asia, Africa, and Oceania, as well as some parts of Europe and South America. Artillery plant thrives primarily in tropical and subtropical climates and has established itself as an invasive species in several introduced areas.
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info on Artillery Plant Growth and Care
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Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Partial sun
The artillery plant prefers generous lighting, yet it can thrive under both ample and limited light conditions. It's adaptable and can weather the spectrum from a fully sunlit to an entirely shaded area. In its natural habitat, it enjoys a variety of light conditions. However, overexposure can lead to scorching and underexposure can hamper its robust growth.
Best Sunlight Practices 
Transplant
9-12 inches
The best time to transplant artillery plant is during the warm embrace of summer, offering optimal growth conditions. Choose a bright, indirect light location and ensure proper drainage. Gently settle artillery plant in its new home for successful establishment.
Transplant Techniques 
Temperature
0 - 43 ℃
The artillery plant plant naturally thrives in a temperature range of 20 to 38 ℃ (68 to 100.4 ℉). It prefers a warm environment and moderately high humidity. During the summer months, it is best to keep the temperature around 24 to 27 ℃ (75.2 to 80.6 ℉) and during winter, it is best to keep it around 18 to 21 ℃ (64.4 to 69.8 ℉).
Temp for Healthy Growth 
Best Time to Buy
Mid spring, Late spring
Ideal for purchase in mid to late spring, artillery plant is a low-maintenance plant with a rapid growth rate. It's particularly noted for its compact green foliage and profuse diminutive blooms that resemble tiny sprays of artillery, earning it its unique name. Healthy specimens will exhibit lush, vibrant leaves. When buying, look for pests-free plants with robust growth and no discoloration.
How to Choose Artillery plant 
Feng shui direction
East
The artillery plant aligns seamlessly with the Eastern facing direction. It's because the element Wood is dominant in the East, according to Feng Shui. The compact and free-growing nature of artillery plant stimulates the prosperous energy known as 'qi', thus promoting harmony and balance. However, as variations occur, it would be prudent to seek personalized advice.
Fengshui Details Plants Related to Artillery plant
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Monarch fern
Monarch fern (Phymatosorus scolopendria) is a perennial fern that is also known as the wart fern. It has broad, glossy fronds that have wart-like bumps on the surface. It is native to Hawaii and prefers full sun to partial shade. It is a slow growing fern that grows well in tropical climates. The leaves, when crushed, have a musky scent.
Flamegold rain tree
Flamegold rain tree(Koelreuteria elegans) is a decorative tree native to China, which is listed as a weed in much of the world. It is particularly harmful in Hawaii and Brisbane, Australia.
Red box
Red box (Eucalyptus polyanthemos) is a tree that can grow to 20 m tall. It has round to oval, grayish green leaves and a box-shaped trunk. Foliage is fragrant and evergreen. Blooms in early spring with small, white flowers. Thrives in full sun with medium, well-drained soil. Once established, it is drought tolerant.
Silver birch
The silver birch is native to Europe, Siberia, and China. It can grow between 15 m and 25 m, with a potential to reach 31 m. Its distinct bark is white and eventually becomes flaky. The leaves are pale green during summer and yellow during fall.
Green amaranth
Green amaranth is an annual herb. In many countries, it is used as a boiled vegetable. The seeds can be eaten as a nutty snack. Green amaranth contains much protein with the essential amino acid, lysine, so it can be a option for vegetarians.
Common three-seeded mercury
The common three-seeded mercury is considered a weed and has a wide distribution in the United States everywhere East of the Rocky Mountains. The name of this plant comes from Greek mythology and references the small bracts surrounding the flowers that resemble Mercury’s winged sandals.
Poison ivy
In pop culture, poison ivy is a symbol of an obnoxious weed because, despite its unthreatening looks, it gives a highly unpleasant contact rash to the unfortunate person who touches it. Still, it is commonly eaten by many animals, and the seeds are a favorite with birds. The leaves turn bright red in fall. Its sister species, Western poison ivy (Toxicodendron rydbergii), is not considered to be invasive in the United States, but is noxious in Australia and New Zealand.
Pokeweed
Although its berries look juicy and tempting, the fruits and the root of pokeweed are toxic and should not be eaten. Pokeweed is considered a pest species by farmers but is nevertheless often grown as an ornamental plant. Its berries can be made into pokeberry ink as well.
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About
Care Guide
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How to Identify
Pests & Diseases
Weed Control
Distribution
More About How-Tos
Related Plants
Artillery plant
Pilea microphylla
Also known as: Artillery weed, Pistol plant
The artillery plant is often utilized as a groundcover or an ornamental in many landscapes. It's commonly named the "artillery plant" because the males generally produce pollen in an explosive way. It grows best in a humid environment in partial shade or indirect sunlight. It's a particularly popular plant in indoor rock gardens.
Water
Every week
Sunlight
Partial sun
Weeds
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Care Guide for Artillery plant
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Watering Care
Moisture-loving, keep the soil moist but do not let water accumulate.
Fertilizing Care
Fertilization once every half month during the growing season.
Soil Care
Slightly acidic, Neutral
Ideal Lighting
Partial sun, Full sun, Full shade
Ideal Temperature
9 to 12
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Questions About Artillery plant
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Watering Sunlight Temperature What is the best way to water my Artillery plant?
What should I do if I water my Artillery plant too much or too little?
How often should I water my Artillery plant?
How much water does my Artillery plant need?
How should I water my Artillery plant at different growth stages?
How should I water my Artillery plant through the seasons?
What's the difference between watering my Artillery plant indoors and outdoors?
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More Questions People Also Ask
Key Facts About Artillery plant
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Attributes of Artillery plant
Lifespan
Perennial, Annual
Plant Type
Herb
Planting Time
Spring
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer, Fall
Harvest Time
Fall
Plant Height
17 cm
Spread
30 cm to 60 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
1 mm
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Pink
Green
Fruit Color
Brown
Stem Color
Green
Dormancy
Non-dormant
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃
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Name story
Artillery clearweed||Artilleryweed||Artillery plant||Gunpowder plant||Rockweed
Artillery plant got its name from the ability to grow in rocks, walls, cracks in walkways and driveways, etc. It's also called Artilleryweed, Artillery plant, or Gunpowder plant. These names were derived from the plant's ability to forcefully send pollen from its flowers to the air, which can be easily observed by the naked eye.
Usages
Garden Use
A low-slung, warm-climate evergreen, the artillery plant is chosen by gardeners for its interesting fernlike rows of tiny leaves, its tolerance for shadier areas, and its dense growth, which crowds out weeds. It is most commonly used as a groundcover, but is also featured in rock gardens and planted to drape over the edges of stone walls.
Trivia and Interesting Facts
Artillery plant has a slightly invasive nature, easily becoming a weed in warm areas. The plant spreads quickly, and it's quite tolerable to various conditions and habitats, such as cracks in driveways and walkways.
Scientific Classification of Artillery plant
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Quickly Identify Artillery plant
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1
Lush mat of bright green, ovoid to lanceolate leaves (0.5 inches / 1.27 cm) on spreading stems.
2
Low height rarely exceeding 12 inches (30 cm), suitable for clusters and dense vegetative layer.
3
Small, inconspicuous flowers (0.1 inches / 2-3 mm) in leaf axils, lacking scent, integral plant component.
4
Fleshy, lanceolate to spatulate leaves (0.6 - 1.2 cm / 0.24 - 0.47 inches) with succulent texture.
5
Simple vein pattern with central midrib, bright green color contributing to delicate appearance.
Common Pests & Diseases About Artillery plant
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Common issues for Artillery plant based on 10 million real cases
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Learn More About the Leaf beetles ![more]()
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
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Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Learn More About the Sap-sucking insects ![more]()
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
- Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
- Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
- Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
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Weed Control About Artillery plant
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Weeds
Artillery plant is native from Mexico to Brazil, often rooting in moist soil along walls and rocky places in USDA zones 11 to 12. This plant has been recorded as invasive in forty-six countries, including Brazil, India, Ecuador, China, and Micronesia. Male specimens expel seeds into the air, giving rise to the name "artillery plant." Dispersed by the wind, these seeds will spread quickly if given a chance to take root. Artillery plant can be controlled by using chemical herbicides, and mechanical removal of seedlings by hand is also effective.
How to Control it
Once weeds are flowering and firm, it is difficult to effectively control them, so the best time for weeds to be removed is before flowering and firming; once flowering and firming, the seeds will spread very quickly and need to be removed frequently, and prevention should be made in the next year. Seed stage: It can be covered with sawdust, crop straw or black opaque film, which can effectively inhibit seed germination and weed seedling growth. This method is generally used in winter or spring to inhibit weed seeds from germinating in the soil; if weeds are already flowering and firm, this method can be used to isolate the seeds from the soil and reduce the number of seeds that fall into the soil. Unplugging: Before weeds are strong, wear gloves or use tools to dig out weeds. If the soil is difficult to remove due to drought, it can be used to thoroughly remove the roots of weeds after being irrigated with water. After removal, it can be used in conjunction with deep cultivation to prevent weed roots from remaining. This method is particularly suitable for weeds at the seedling stage or with a relatively low size. Pruning: Pruning before weeds can effectively control the spread of weeds, especially for annual weeds. Frequent pruning can suppress the growth and fruiting of weeds, which can effectively remove weeds that year. Tillage: Tillage the soil before cultivation, pick up and discard perennial weed roots, expose to the sun, or bury it deeply. It can also be used to make organic fertilizer and compost with weeds. Chemical control: The weeds can be effectively removed by competing herbicides. Note: When removing weeds, you need to wear gloves to avoid direct contact between the body and the weeds, especially for some toxic, thorny, sensitive mucous weeds. When cleaning weeds during flowering, you need to wear a special mask to prevent allergies caused by inhaling pollen.
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Distribution of Artillery plant
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Habitat of Artillery plant
Waste places, hammocks, rocky woods, cultivated plots, masonry
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere
Distribution Map of Artillery plant
The plant known as artillery plant is native to Central and South America as well as the Caribbean islands. It has been introduced to various regions across Asia, Africa, and Oceania, as well as some parts of Europe and South America. Artillery plant thrives primarily in tropical and subtropical climates and has established itself as an invasive species in several introduced areas.
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info on Artillery Plant Growth and Care
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Lighting
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Partial sun
Ideal
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Full sun, Full shade
Tolerance
Above 6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness. Essentials
The artillery plant prefers generous lighting, yet it can thrive under both ample and limited light conditions. It's adaptable and can weather the spectrum from a fully sunlit to an entirely shaded area. In its natural habitat, it enjoys a variety of light conditions. However, overexposure can lead to scorching and underexposure can hamper its robust growth.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Artillery plant is a versatile plant that thrives in partial sunlight but can tolerate full sunlight in cooler weather. Although symptoms of light deficiency may not be easily noticeable, inadequate light conditions can affect their growth indoors.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your artillery plant may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Artillery plant enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To optimize plant growth, shift them to increasingly sunnier spots each week until they receive 3-6 hours of direct sunlight daily, enabling gradual adaptation to changing light conditions.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Artillery plant thrives with partial sun exposure but is more prone to sunburn. The intense sunlight during summer can cause leaf sunburn, making it important to provide adequate shade and protection.
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Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care. Essentials
The artillery plant plant naturally thrives in a temperature range of 20 to 38 ℃ (68 to 100.4 ℉). It prefers a warm environment and moderately high humidity. During the summer months, it is best to keep the temperature around 24 to 27 ℃ (75.2 to 80.6 ℉) and during winter, it is best to keep it around 18 to 21 ℃ (64.4 to 69.8 ℉).
Regional wintering strategies
Artillery plant is extremely heat-loving, and any cold temperatures can cause harm to it. In the autumn, it is recommended to bring outdoor-grown Artillery plant indoors and place it near a bright window, but it should be kept at a certain distance from heaters. Maintaining temperatures above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} during winter is beneficial for plant growth. Any temperatures approaching {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min} are detrimental to the plant.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in Artillery plant
Artillery plant prefers warm temperatures and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves may lighten in color. After frost damage, the color gradually turns brown or black, and symptoms such as wilting and drooping may occur.
Solutions
Trim off the frost-damaged parts. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment for cold protection. Choose a spot near a south-facing window to place the plant, ensuring ample sunlight. Additionally, avoid placing the plant near heaters or air conditioning vents to prevent excessive dryness in the air.
Symptoms of High Temperature in Artillery plant
During summer, Artillery plant should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the color of the leaves becomes lighter, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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