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Walking sansevieria
Walking sansevieria
Walking sansevieria
Walking sansevieria
Walking sansevieria
Walking sansevieria
Walking sansevieria
Sansevieria pinguicula
Also known as : Snake plant
The scientific name of this bizarre plant, Sansevieria pinguicula, is attributed to the leaves' shape; the Latin "pinguis" means "fat." The walking sansevieria gets its common name because it produces aerial shoots followed by stilt-like rooting, resulting in a plant that appears to be walking away from its parent.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
8 to 11
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care guide

Care Guide for Walking sansevieria

What Are the Lighting Requirements for Walking sansevieria?
What Are the Lighting Requirements for Walking sansevieria?
Partial sun, Partial sun
Details on Sunlight Requirements What Are the Lighting Requirements for Walking sansevieria?
What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Walking sansevieria?
What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Walking sansevieria?
8 to 11
Details on Temperature What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Walking sansevieria?
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Walking sansevieria
Water
Water
Every 3 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Partial sun
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Questions About Walking sansevieria

Watering Watering Watering
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What should I do if I water my Walking sansevieria too much or too little?
Underwatered Walking sansevieria
Walking sansevieria and other succulents can endure long periods without water, so it’s unusual to find one of these suffering from underwatering. But, if you somehow forgot about your plant and neglected to water it for a month or more, you’ll probably find your Walking sansevieria looking thirsty or with some damage from lack of watering.
It is very easy to identify an underwatered Walking sansevieria. Plant look lacklustre and wrinkled. Some may have dried up completely, turned brown and crispy, or dropped off the plant. And of course, the soil will be completely dried out.
If your Walking sansevieria is thirsty and underwatered, give it plenty of water as soon as possible. Submerging the pot entirely in water for about 5-10 minutes is a good way to make sure the soil and plant are rehydrated properly. When you feel a sense of moisture on the surface of the soil with your finger, it means the watering is done properly.
Overwatered Walking sansevieria
Overwatering is dangerous to Walking sansevieria and can be fatal to your plant if you don’t remedy the situation. Too much moisture over time leads to root rot, which prevents the roots from being able to absorb nutrients and water from the soil. Root rot occurs when wet conditions allow fungi and bacteria to flourish in the soil and feed on roots. When you find that it's overwatered, you'd better change the growing conditions, place it somewhere with more air ventilation and adjust water frequency, for example.
The symptoms of overwatering are yellow, swollen, and translucent organs that may even burst open from being over-full with water. If the problem continues without being treated, plant might turn brown or black, and fall off the plant at the slightest touch. Be sure to check the soil to determine if overwatering is the culprit, as some other issues can cause similar symptoms.
It’s a bit difficult (but not impossible) to save an overwatered plant. The key is catching it early before a lot of damage has occurred. If the roots become rotten, it is likely to kill the entire plant. If you suspect you have overwatered your Walking sansevieria, the first step is to remove it from its pot and check the roots and soil.
After removing the plant from its pot, gently remove wet soil from around the roots and then rinse them clean in room-temperature water. This helps with removing fungus that might be lurking in the soil and allows you to get a better sense of how healthy the roots are. If your plant has already developed root rot, you will see roots that are dark brown or black, soft, mushy, or slimy.
If the majority of the roots are already affected by root rot, it may not be possible to save the plant. In this case, it is best to remove any healthy stem and try to use these to propagate a new Walking sansevieria. If, on the other hand, only a portion of the roots have succumbed to rot and other healthy roots still remain, there is a chance it can be saved.
Use a sterilized cutting tool to remove any unhealthy-looking roots. Once you're left with only the firm, pale roots, it’s a good idea to dip them in a fungicide to kill off any remaining spores. After that you can repot your Walking sansevieria in fresh, free-draining potting soil. While this does not always work to save a succulent with root rot, in most cases this plant will be able to make a full recovery and will put out new growth starting in the next growing season.
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How often should I water my Walking sansevieria?
There’s not a hard-and-fast rule for how often to water Walking sansevieria. The best way to determine this is to check the soil and only water when it’s bone dry. You can either stick your finger in the pot or use a moisture meter to check the soil below the surface. When you plant it in a deep pot, you can do this with a stick or chopstick. If it feels even a little bit moist, wait a few days and check it again.
Most people will need to water Walking sansevieria about every two weeks in summer and once a month in winter, but there are several factors that can change the frequency. The section below lists some considerations that can help you to determine how often to water.
Read More more
What should I consider when watering my Walking sansevieria?
There are several environmental conditions that will affect how your Walking sansevieria needs to be watered, including the container size, soil type, temperature, and humidity.
First off, the container and soil you use will determine how often to water and how much water to use each time. Be sure you use a container with plenty of drainage holes in the bottom so extra water can escape the pot. A small container has less room for soil, meaning it won’t hold as much moisture, while a larger pot will stay wet longer and need to be watered less often. It’s important not to keep your Walking sansevieria in an oversized pot as this can easily lead to overwatering. When repotting, move to just one size larger than the current container. A shallow container works better than a deep one, since Walking sansevieria has shallow root systems.
Walking sansevieria will need to be watered less often in winter and more often in the active growing season in spring and autumn. During the winter, growth slows down considerably and the plant isn’t using much energy or water. There is less water lost to evaporation in cooler winter air, meaning that soil stays wet for much longer than it would in the summer.
This also applies to the general climate around your home. If you live in a humid location with a lot of rain, you will need to water less often than if you live in a dry, arid climate. Remember that conditions at the same geographic location can vary significantly with the season and the use of indoor heating and air conditioning.
Outdoor Planting
If Walking sansevieria is planted in the ground, after establishing a root system, it shouldn’t need supplemental water beyond what it receives through precipitation and dew. But if there is a long dry period, you may want to water occasionally. In other areas where Walking sansevieria can only be grown in a container, this plant can be moved outside in the spring and summer when the temperature is proper and then brought back inside when temperatures start to drop. A potted Walking sansevieria kept outside usually needs more water than the same plant kept indoors, because there is a lot more sun exposure even on a shaded porch.
Read More more
How to water Walking sansevieria?
The best way to water Walking sansevieria is to soak it thoroughly and then allow it to dry out before it gets watered again. Since this plant is somewhat drought tolerant, you can let it get quite dry before watering again. It is always better to give this type of plant too little water over too much.
When you water, make sure the soil gets thoroughly soaked throughout the whole pot. Don’t pour the water in just one spot, but rather try to go around the whole rim of the planter to be sure that it has a chance to get wet on all sides of the plant. The correct amount of water will depend on the size of your container and how much water your soil absorbs. Give your Walking sansevieria enough water that it drains out from the drainage holes and then (ideally) leave the drained water in the saucer for about 20-30 minutes to absorb into dry pockets of soil. After that, discard any excess water that’s still in the saucer to avoid the soil getting waterlogged.
Bottom-watering is also an excellent method for Walking sansevieria, as you can be sure that the soil gets thoroughly moistened. This process involves placing the pot into a saucer of water and allowing the soil to absorb moisture through the drainage holes. You will know that the soil has absorbed enough water when the top layer is moist. This takes a bit more time than top-watering, but is almost foolproof in getting an even distribution of water throughout the pot.
The original habitat of Walking sansevieria is relatively dry with little rain, but when it rains, the soil will be thoroughly moistened. So you can mimic this situation by bottom-watering your plant when the soil is totally dry. Deep soil bathing is better than frequent light watering for Walking sansevieria.
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Key Facts About Walking sansevieria

Attributes of Walking sansevieria

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Succulent
Bloom Time
Summer, Fall, Winter
Plant Height
60 cm
Spread
30 cm
Flower Color
Yellow
Green
Leaf type
Evergreen

Scientific Classification of Walking sansevieria

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Common Pests & Diseases About Walking sansevieria

Common issues for Walking sansevieria based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Low light
Low light Low light
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
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Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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Low light
plant poor
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
  1. Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
  2. There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
  3. All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
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care_scenes

More Info on Walking Sansevieria Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
Explore More
Lighting
Partial sun
The walking sansevieria thrives under moderate light exposure, emulating its native environment conditions. Too little light can result in stunted growth, while too much can cause leaf scorching. For healthy growth, a balance must be stricken, mirroring its original habitat where light is neither too scarce nor too excessive.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
-5 43 ℃
Walking sansevieria is naturally found in environments, where temperatures fluctuate between 59 to 100.4 °F (15 to 38 ℃). Thriving in this range, it might need adjustments to indoor temperatures outside this range to ensure healthy growth.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
2-3 feet
The perfect time to transplant walking sansevieria is from late summer to early autumn (S3-S4), as it allows optimal root development before winter. Ensure your walking sansevieria has access to bright, indirect light for best growth. If needed, remember to curb watering after re-potting to avoid root rot.
Transplant Techniques
Feng shui direction
Southwest
Walking sansevieria is perceived to inject a sense of stability and assiduity in its surroundings. This characteristic makes it more fitting in a southwest-facing location, as this direction, in Feng Shui, symbolizes Earth element absorbing its grounding energy. However, individual experiences with walking sansevieria might vary, reflecting the multifaceted interpretations of Feng Shui.
Fengshui Details
other_plant

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Hankey dwarf aloe is a small, rosette-forming succulent, very similar to aloe. It is known as the Hankey dwarf aloe, due to its native habitat, a small town named Hankey in the Eastern Cape of South Africa. The variation name Haworthiopsis attenuata var. radula comes from the Latin word "radere", meaning "to scrape", a reference to its sandpaper-like rough leaves.
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Golden pothos
The golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular houseplant that is commonly seen in Australia, Asia, and the West Indies. It goes by many nicknames, including "devil's ivy", because it is so hard to kill and can even grow in low light conditions. Golden pothos has poisonous sap, so it should be kept away from pets and children.
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Walking sansevieria
Walking sansevieria
Walking sansevieria
Walking sansevieria
Walking sansevieria
Walking sansevieria
Walking sansevieria
Sansevieria pinguicula
Also known as: Snake plant
The scientific name of this bizarre plant, Sansevieria pinguicula, is attributed to the leaves' shape; the Latin "pinguis" means "fat." The walking sansevieria gets its common name because it produces aerial shoots followed by stilt-like rooting, resulting in a plant that appears to be walking away from its parent.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
8 to 11
more
care guide

Care Guide for Walking sansevieria

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Questions About Walking sansevieria

Watering Watering Watering
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What should I do if I water my Walking sansevieria too much or too little?
more
How often should I water my Walking sansevieria?
more
What should I consider when watering my Walking sansevieria?
more
How to water Walking sansevieria?
more
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Key Facts About Walking sansevieria

Attributes of Walking sansevieria

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Succulent
Bloom Time
Summer, Fall, Winter
Plant Height
60 cm
Spread
30 cm
Flower Color
Yellow
Green
Leaf type
Evergreen
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Scientific Classification of Walking sansevieria

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Walking sansevieria

Common issues for Walking sansevieria based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More About the Brown spot more
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More About the Aged yellow and dry more
Low light
Low light Low light Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Learn More About the Low light more
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Treat and prevent plant diseases.
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close
Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Low light
plant poor
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
  1. Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
  2. There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
  3. All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
Solutions
Solutions
Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed.
  • Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn.
  • Introduce appropriate artificial lighting.
  • Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Prevention
Prevention
To avoid etiolation, provide an adequate amount of light from the beginning.
  1. Choose a location that matches each plant's ideal light needs. Many indoor plants do best in or near a south-facing window, which will provide the longest hours of sunlight. Flowering plants and those with colored leaves typically need more light than purely-green plants, as photosynthesis occurs in the green portions of leaves.
  2. Select plants with light needs that match a location's conditions. Some cultivars and varieties require less light than others.
  3. Use a grow light. Darker locations may require artificial illumination. A grow light may also become more necessary during winter, when sunlit hours are at their shortest.
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More Info on Walking Sansevieria Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Partial sun
Ideal
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
The walking sansevieria thrives under moderate light exposure, emulating its native environment conditions. Too little light can result in stunted growth, while too much can cause leaf scorching. For healthy growth, a balance must be stricken, mirroring its original habitat where light is neither too scarce nor too excessive.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Walking sansevieria thrives in partial sunlight but can tolerate full sunlight in cooler weather. As a popular indoor plant, it's often placed in rooms with insufficient lighting, increasing the likelihood of light deficiency symptoms.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Walking sansevieria may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Walking sansevieria enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To optimize plant growth, shift them to increasingly sunnier spots each week until they receive 3-6 hours of direct sunlight daily, enabling gradual adaptation to changing light conditions.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Walking sansevieria prefers partial sun exposure but can tolerate full sun in cooler weather. However, during summer, they are more susceptible to sunburn due to their inability to withstand intense sunlight in high-temperature environments.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Walking sansevieria is naturally found in environments, where temperatures fluctuate between 59 to 100.4 °F (15 to 38 ℃). Thriving in this range, it might need adjustments to indoor temperatures outside this range to ensure healthy growth.
Regional wintering strategies
Walking sansevieria is a heat-loving plant that gradually stops growing and enters a dormant state during the winter. When the outdoor temperature drops below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it should be moved indoors for cultivation. Choose a location near a south-facing window to provide as much sunlight as possible. If there is insufficient natural light, supplemental lighting can be used. When the temperature falls below {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}, the plant's growth slows down, and watering should be reduced or stopped to prevent root rot. For Walking sansevieria grown outdoors, watering should be completely halted during low temperatures. If feasible, you can set up a temporary greenhouse for insulation or use materials such as plastic film or fabric to wrap the plant during cold temperatures.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Walking sansevieria thrives in high temperatures and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It grows best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the plant may become weak, wilt, and be prone to root rot. In cases of mild frost damage, there may not be any initial symptoms, but after a week, the plant will gradually wither.
Solutions
Trim off the frostbitten areas, paying attention to whether the roots have rotted. If the roots have rotted, they need to be cut off, and the plant can be propagated through cuttings. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment and place the plant near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. If there is insufficient light, you can use supplemental lighting.
High Temperature
During summer, Walking sansevieria should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant's growth will cease, it will experience water loss, wilting, and becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Remove the sunburned and rotten parts. Shield the plant from afternoon sunlight until it recovers and starts growing again. For plants with root rot, stop watering until new roots begin to emerge.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Walking Sansevieria?
The perfect time to transplant walking sansevieria is from late summer to early autumn (S3-S4), as it allows optimal root development before winter. Ensure your walking sansevieria has access to bright, indirect light for best growth. If needed, remember to curb watering after re-potting to avoid root rot.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Walking Sansevieria?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Walking Sansevieria?
The optimum time to transplant walking sansevieria is between late summer and early autumn. This period, termed 'S3-S4', ensures walking sansevieria adapts comfortably to its new environment. Transplanting during this period reduces shock and promotes better root establishment. Remember, a well-timed transplant sets walking sansevieria up for a healthy growth!
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Walking Sansevieria Plants?
When planting walking sansevieria, ensure to leave ample space for its growth. Ideally, keep a distance of approximately 2-3 feet (60-90 cm) between each plant. This will give it space to spread out and grow effectively.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Walking Sansevieria Transplanting?
For walking sansevieria, you'll want a well-draining soil type, like cactus or succulent mix. Always prepare the soil with a base fertilizer before planting, to provide all necessary nutrients. Remember to balance the soil's pH to slightly acidic or neutral (6.0 - 7.0 pH)
Where Should You Relocate Your Walking Sansevieria?
Sunlight plays a vital role in walking sansevieria's growth. Though it can tolerate low light, ideally place it in a bright location, but not direct sunlight. East or west facing windows are great spots for these indoor plants.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Walking Sansevieria?
Gardening gloves
To protect your hands from soil and potential thorns or sharp leaves of the walking sansevieria.
Shovel or Spade
To dig out the soil around your plant. This will be useful whether the plant is in the ground or in a pot.
Garden Fork
To lift the plant without damaging the roots, it's helpful when dealing with larger plants.
Pruning Shears
To trim back any dead or dying portions of the plant, ensuring a healthier transplant.
New Pot or Garden Space
Depending on where you're moving the walking sansevieria to, you'll need a suitable environment.
Watering Can
To hydrate the plant before and after the transplanting process.
Trowel
To dig a hole in your new planting area.
How Do You Remove Walking Sansevieria from the Soil?
From Ground: Firstly, water the walking sansevieria to soften the soil. Using a shovel, dig a trench around the plant ensuring you are at a distance that won't harm the root ball. Gradually work the shovel under the plant to lift it, keeping the root ball intact.
From Pot: Begin by watering the walking sansevieria, this will make the plant easier to remove. Turn the pot sideways, while supporting the plant with your hand. Gently wriggle the plant out, trying not to yank or pull. If the plant is stuck, run a knife or trowel around the inside edge of the pot to loosen it.
From Seedling Tray: Thoroughly water the tray, then lift the walking sansevieria seedlings delicately by the leaves, not the stem, using a dibber or pencil. Be gentle as seedlings are very delicate.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Walking Sansevieria
Step1 Preparation
Prior to transplanting, water your walking sansevieria well. This will help to mitigate transplant shock. Then select the new location, be it pot or garden space and ensure it's ready for transplant.
Step2 Removal
Use the relevant tool to remove the plant from its current location, whether that be ground, pot or seedling tray. Remember to be delicate with the root system.
Step3 Planting
Dig a hole in the new location with the trowel, ensuring it is deep enough to completely cover the root ball. Place the walking sansevieria plant in the hole and carefully pack the soil around it. Make sure the plant is situated in the same depth as it had been in its previous spot.
Step4 Watering
After planting, water your walking sansevieria carefully, avoiding overwatering. Avoid watering during complete sun exposure. This can ensure that the water does not evaporate before reaching the roots and prevent sun-scalding to the leaves.
Step5 Monitoring
Keep an eye on your walking sansevieria following the days after transplantation. Monitor the plant to check if it needs more water.
How Do You Care For Walking Sansevieria After Transplanting?
Water Regulation
After transplanting, your walking sansevieria will require adequate yet balanced watering. Water the plant when soil becomes dry but avoid excess watering which may cause root rot.
Pruning
Trim any leaves that start to yellow or brown. Pruning can stimulate further growth and increase the overall health of the plant.
Temperature
Walking sansevieria plants appreciate stable temperatures, avoiding cold draughts and hot, dry air can be beneficial so be aware of the environment and relocate the plant if necessary.
Rotation
Rotate your plant every once in a while to ensure that all sides receive equal sunlight for even growth.
Monitoring
Watch out for signs of pests or diseases as stress from transplanting can make the plant more susceptible.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Walking Sansevieria Transplantation.
When is the most favorable time to transplant walking sansevieria?
The perfect period to move your walking sansevieria is during the late summer to early fall (S3-S4).
What mistakes should I avoid when transplanting walking sansevieria?
Never overload your walking sansevieria with water after transferring it. Let the soil dry first, over-watering can lead to root rot.
What's the ideal space for planting walking sansevieria?
Keep a gap of about 2-3 feet (60-90 cm) between each walking sansevieria. It encourages their healthy growth.
Do I need to prune walking sansevieria before transplanting?
Yes, prune any unhealthy leaves from your walking sansevieria before transplanting. It helps the plant focus on new growth.
If walking sansevieria's leaves turn yellow after transplanting, what does it mean?
Yellow leaves might be a symptom of overwatering or insufficient light. Adjust your care routine accordingly.
Should I add fertilizer when transplanting walking sansevieria?
Yes, adding a balanced slow-release fertilizer during transplanting will boost your walking sansevieria's growth and establishment.
What kind of soil is best for walking sansevieria when transplanting?
Walking sansevieria prefers well-draining soil. A mix of sand, perlite, and peat moss works best for it.
Why is my transplanted walking sansevieria wilting?
Wilting may occur due to water stress or shock from transplanting. Ensure adequate water and be patient.
How can I minimize transplant shock in walking sansevieria?
To mitigate transplant shock, water walking sansevieria thoroughly before and after transplanting. Using root stimulators can also help.
What type of pot should I use for walking sansevieria when transplanting?
Choose a pot with good drainage to prevent water accumulation. Ceramic or terracotta pots are typically ideal for walking sansevieria.
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