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Queen anthurium
Queen anthurium
Queen anthurium
Anthurium warocqueanum
Queen anthurium, or Anthurium warocqueanum, is a rare species of anthurium. It features long, dark green, velvety leaves. This epiphyte grows on other plants. It is native to Columbia, and in cooler areas is grown in greenhouses or as a houseplant.
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
care guide

Care Guide for Queen anthurium

Watering Care
Watering Care
Moisture-loving, keep the soil moist but do not let water accumulate.
Details on Watering Care Watering Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilization once a month during the growing season.
Details on Fertilizing Care Fertilizing Care
Pruning
Pruning
Deadhead (or remove) withered flowers after flowering.
Details on Pruning Pruning
Soil Care
Soil Care
Chalky, Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
Repotting
Repotting
Needs excellent drainage in pots.
Details on Repotting Repotting
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Queen anthurium
Water
Water
Every week
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
question

Questions About Queen anthurium

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Queen anthurium?
There are plenty of viable ways to supply your Queen anthurium with water. If you grow your plant in an indoor pot, for the Queen anthuriums in small pots, you can bring your potted plant to your kitchen sink. Then, use the faucet to add water to the container. By holding the pot in your hands, you should easily notice when the water begins to run through the pot’s drainage holes, at which point you can stop watering. The cold temperature will hurt the plants' root system, so please don't do this during winter or in cold climates. Most of the time, watering via your faucet is permissible for the Queen anthurium. However, if the local tap water contains a high proportion of fluorine, chlorine or salts, you should consider using rainwater or lake water.
Also, since the Queen anthurium can respond well to overhead watering and watering directly into the soil, you can use a watering can, hose, or just about any tool you’d like to water it.
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What should I do if I water my Queen anthurium too much or too little?
If you discover that you have underwatered your Queen anthurium, your first step towards remedying the situation is to give your plant some water. Water deeply until excess water runs from the container’s drainage hole, or if you grow outside, water until the soil has become entirely moist. If you find your Queen anthurium is receiving too much water, begin by reducing your watering schedule. You also want to address the soil and container your Queen anthurium grows in. If either the soil or the container makes it difficult for water to drain efficiently, your plant will likely become overwatered again. Resolve the issue by moving your plant to looser soils and/or a container with bigger drainage holes or a more porous material. Also check the location of the plant. If the plant is in places like a corner, then it is recommended to move it to a window or around a door to enhance ventilation. Making sure the plants are in a well-ventilated location can reduce the occurrence of overwatering to some extent.
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How often should I water my Queen anthurium?
The Queen anthurium is not a species that requires consistent soil moisture. Instead, it is better to allow this plant’s soil to become dry between waterings. If you are like the many gardeners who grow Queen anthuriums in containers, you can judge whether or not it is time to add water by how dry the soil within the container is. For instance, if about top half of the soil in your container has become dry, it is time to add water. You can feel it by inserting your fingers or sticks into the soil or with soil moisture meter. For those who grow the Queen anthurium outdoors, you can plan to do your watering about once every other week, provided it has not rained recently.
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How much water does my Queen anthurium need?
After waiting for the first several layers of soil surrounding your Queen anthurium’s root to become dry(top half of the soil), it is time to add enough water to make them moist again. The amount of water it takes to achieve that goal depends on if you use a container, how large that container is, and how large your plant itself is. For a small Queen anthurium growing in a small to a medium-sized container, one to two cups may be enough to dampen the soil sufficiently. As you would expect, the volume of water you supply should increase for a larger plant. The best way to make sure your plant has received enough water is to stick your finger or a trowel into the soil and feel whether it is entirely moist. Alternatively, you can water until you see excess water draining from the holes at the bottom of your container.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Queen anthurium enough?
Overwatering and underwatering are both bad for the health of your Queen anthurium. These two issues also manifest themselves in subtly different ways when they occur. Queen anthurium that receives too little water may begin to develop yellow leaves. Underwatering may also cause the leaf margins to become brown and brittle. By contrast, Queen anthurium that gets overwatered will often show yellow and brown marks on its leaves at the same time. Overwatering can also lead to diseases like root rot, some of which may also be visible on your plant. However, if you know the signs of overwatering and underwatering, you stand a good chance of correcting both issues.
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How should I water my Queen anthurium through the seasons?
During spring and fall, your watering schedule for the Queen anthurium will remain relatively the same, which will involve watering this plant about once every week. During summer, you may find that the hot weather causes your plant to need more water than usual, especially if it grows where there is a considerable amount of daily light exposure. In the winter, if it's hard to find some warm places for you plant, your Queen anthurium will enter a dormant growth phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. At this time, you may get by without watering your plant at all. If you do choose to water during winter, you should not do so more often than once every two to three weeks.
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How should I water my Queen anthurium at different growth stages?
After planting a new, young Queen anthurium or after transplanting an older Queen anthurium, you will probably need to give this plant more water than usual. Young plants often need consistent soil moisture during the early stages of their growth to help them adapt to their new growing locations. Transplants also need more water for a brief time to overcome transplant shock. In either case, you may need to water multiple times per week until your plant has exhibited continuous healthy growth. In most situations, your water should be moderate and should never be significant enough to cause overwatering.
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What's the difference between watering Queen anthurium indoors and outdoors?
There are a few reasons why you may need to water an indoor Queen anthurium more often than one that grows in the ground outdoors. First, indoor growing settings tend to be drier than outdoor ones, often due to the effect of air conditioning units. While thw size of the pot and the soil determines the warer accumulating ability. Additionally, when your plant grows indoors, it will rely on you entirely for its water By contrast, Queen anthurium that grows outside can receive water from rain. If you are in an area with high rainfall, you may not have to give it extra watering. When there is not enough rain, you should water additionally to ensure that the soil does not dry out completely.
Read More more
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plant_info

Key Facts About Queen anthurium

Attributes of Queen anthurium

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Herb
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
Bloom Time
Summer, Fall
Plant Height
90 cm
Spread
50 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Gray
Silver
Flower Color
White
Purple
Stem Color
Green
Gray
Silver
Purple
Leaf type
Evergreen, Deciduous

Scientific Classification of Queen anthurium

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Queen anthurium

Common issues for Queen anthurium based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Caterpillars
Caterpillars Caterpillars
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
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Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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Underwatering
plant poor
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
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Caterpillars
plant poor
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
  1. Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
  2. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
  1. Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
  2. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
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distribution

Distribution of Queen anthurium

Habitat of Queen anthurium

Trees in tropical forests
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Queen anthurium

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
habit
care_scenes

More Info on Queen Anthurium Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
Explore More
Lighting
Full sun
The queen anthurium thrives well under consistent, full exposure to the sun. However, it can also withstand areas with a lesser amount of solar radiation. Originating from a habitat with abundant sunlight, it's accustomed to intense light conditions. A lack or excessiveness of sunlight could influence its healthy growth negatively.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
5 45 ℃
Queen anthurium is native to areas where temperatures generally fall between 68 to 105.8°F (20 to 41℃). It prefers this warmer climate and may need temperature adjustments in colder seasons. Maintain a minimum temperature above 68°F (20℃) for optimal growth.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
2-3 feet
Transplanting queen anthurium is best done in late summer to early autumn (S3-S4), a season when the plant can focus energy on root development. Place queen anthurium in a warm, well-lit area without direct light. Always ensure the new pot drains well to prevent root rot. Be patient, queen anthurium may take time to adjust to its new home.
Transplant Techniques
Feng shui direction
East
The queen anthurium has a broad compatibility range in Feng Shui, often linked with prosperity and well-being. However, facing East with its radiant foliage, it may disrupt the balance of energy due to excessive Wood element. As every arrangement is unique, this is merely a general consideration and may vary depending on individual circumstances.
Fengshui Details
other_plant

Plants Related to Queen anthurium

Indian chrysanthemum
Indian chrysanthemum
Indian chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum indicum) is a flowering plant species that blooms from summer to fall. Indian chrysanthemum must be grown outside under sunlight with moist soil. This plant's leaves can be used to make an aromatic tea.
Pink trumpet tree
Pink trumpet tree
The pink trumpet tree is a striking pink flowering tree. It drops its foliage immediately before bursting into bloom, leaving the gorgeous blossoms as the focal point. This tree is easily pruned to keep its moderate size, and its root system is not aggressive, making it a great tree to plant near patios or driveways to provide shade and beauty.
African lily
African lily
This evergreen herbaceous plant, known as the african lily, is not a lily. Native to South Africa, it has been utilized for various medicinal uses. For the locals, it is a miraculous and healing plant. The flowers are worn to ward off thunderstorms and were worn by females to boost their strength and fertility.
Shrubby daisybush
Shrubby daisybush
Shrubby daisybush (Osteospermum fruticosum) is a plant species that is indigenous to South Africa. Shrubby daisybush is also known as the trailing African daisy. This species is related to the sunflower.
Creeping fig
Creeping fig
Creeping fig (Ficus pumila) is a plant species native to China, Japan and Vietnam. Creeping fig has been naturalized in parts of the United States. It can be cultivated as a houseplant. The FDA lists this species in its Database of Poisonous Plants due to the plant's toxic sap, which causes inflammation.
Easter Lily Cactus
Easter Lily Cactus
Echinopsis tubiflora is a rare flowering plant species endemic to Argentina. Echinopsis tubiflora is valued ornamentally for its blossoms and sometimes planted as part of landscaping arrangements. This species is considered easy to grow by gardeners.
Cape jasmine
Cape jasmine
Gardenia jasminoides is an evergreen shrub with unique, glossy evergreen leaves and stunning flowers. The sophisticated, matte white flowers are often used in bouquets. The exceptional beauty of this ornamental plant has made it a popular and highly appreciated plant amongst gardeners and horticulturalists.
Golden pothos
Golden pothos
The golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular houseplant that is commonly seen in Australia, Asia, and the West Indies. It goes by many nicknames, including "devil's ivy", because it is so hard to kill and can even grow in low light conditions. Golden pothos has poisonous sap, so it should be kept away from pets and children.
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About
Care Guide
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Pests & Diseases
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Related Plants
Queen anthurium
Queen anthurium
Queen anthurium
Anthurium warocqueanum
Queen anthurium, or Anthurium warocqueanum, is a rare species of anthurium. It features long, dark green, velvety leaves. This epiphyte grows on other plants. It is native to Columbia, and in cooler areas is grown in greenhouses or as a houseplant.
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
question

Questions About Queen anthurium

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Queen anthurium?
more
What should I do if I water my Queen anthurium too much or too little?
more
How often should I water my Queen anthurium?
more
How much water does my Queen anthurium need?
more
How can I tell if i'm watering my Queen anthurium enough?
more
How should I water my Queen anthurium through the seasons?
more
How should I water my Queen anthurium at different growth stages?
more
What's the difference between watering Queen anthurium indoors and outdoors?
more
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Keep your plants happy and healthy with our guide to watering, lighting, feeding and more.
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plant_info

Key Facts About Queen anthurium

Attributes of Queen anthurium

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Herb
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
Bloom Time
Summer, Fall
Plant Height
90 cm
Spread
50 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Gray
Silver
Flower Color
White
Purple
Stem Color
Green
Gray
Silver
Purple
Leaf type
Evergreen, Deciduous
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Scientific Classification of Queen anthurium

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Queen anthurium

Common issues for Queen anthurium based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More About the Brown spot more
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Learn More About the Underwatering more
Caterpillars
Caterpillars Caterpillars Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Learn More About the Caterpillars more
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Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Underwatering
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
  • Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
  • Avoid warm temperatures
  • Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
  • Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Caterpillars
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
  1. Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
  2. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
  1. Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
  2. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
  1. Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
  2. Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
  3. Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
  4. Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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distribution

Distribution of Queen anthurium

Habitat of Queen anthurium

Trees in tropical forests
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Queen anthurium

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Queen Anthurium Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
The queen anthurium thrives well under consistent, full exposure to the sun. However, it can also withstand areas with a lesser amount of solar radiation. Originating from a habitat with abundant sunlight, it's accustomed to intense light conditions. A lack or excessiveness of sunlight could influence its healthy growth negatively.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Queen anthurium thrives in full sunlight but is often cultivated indoors during winter due to sensitivity to cold. This increases the chance of being placed in rooms with inadequate lighting, leading to noticeable symptoms of light deficiency.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Queen anthurium may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Queen anthurium enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Queen anthurium thrives in full sun exposure and can tolerate intense sunlight. With their remarkable resilience, symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible, as they rarely suffer from it.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Queen anthurium is native to areas where temperatures generally fall between 68 to 105.8°F (20 to 41℃). It prefers this warmer climate and may need temperature adjustments in colder seasons. Maintain a minimum temperature above 68°F (20℃) for optimal growth.
Regional wintering strategies
Queen anthurium is extremely heat-loving, and any cold temperatures can cause harm to it. In the autumn, it is recommended to bring outdoor-grown Queen anthurium indoors and place it near a bright window, but it should be kept at a certain distance from heaters. Maintaining temperatures above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} during winter is beneficial for plant growth. Any temperatures approaching {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min} are detrimental to the plant.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Queen anthurium prefers warm temperatures and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves may lighten in color. After frost damage, the color gradually turns brown or black, and symptoms such as wilting and drooping may occur.
Solutions
Trim off the frost-damaged parts. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment for cold protection. Choose a spot near a south-facing window to place the plant, ensuring ample sunlight. Additionally, avoid placing the plant near heaters or air conditioning vents to prevent excessive dryness in the air.
High Temperature
During summer, Queen anthurium should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the color of the leaves becomes lighter, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Queen Anthurium?
Transplanting queen anthurium is best done in late summer to early autumn (S3-S4), a season when the plant can focus energy on root development. Place queen anthurium in a warm, well-lit area without direct light. Always ensure the new pot drains well to prevent root rot. Be patient, queen anthurium may take time to adjust to its new home.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Queen Anthurium?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Queen Anthurium?
The golden season to transplant queen anthurium is between late summer and early autumn (S3-S4). This timing offers a softer climate allowing queen anthurium to grow robust roots. Capitalizing within this window, queen anthurium's vitality and blooming ability are drastically enhanced.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Queen Anthurium Plants?
Let's give each queen anthurium plenty of space to grow. Aim for a distance of about 2-3 feet (60-91 centimeters) between each plant. This will allow them to spread out and flourish without competing for nutrients.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Queen Anthurium Transplanting?
For queen anthurium, it's best to use well-draining soil. A mix of peat moss, perlite, and pine bark provides excellent nutrition and promotes healthy growth. Prior to planting, infuse this with a slow-release fertilizer to give your plants a nutrient-rich start.
Where Should You Relocate Your Queen Anthurium?
When choosing a spot for your queen anthurium, find a location that receives bright but indirect sunlight. They love a bit of sunlight but can suffer from too much, so this light balancing act will ensure they remain happy and healthy.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Queen Anthurium?
Gardening Gloves
Essential for protecting your hands from possible thorns, bugs, or dirt while handling the plant and its root system.
Spade or Shovel
A vital tool for excavating the queen anthurium from its original location, and for preparing the new planting hole.
Garden Trowel
This tool helps in adjusting the plant properly in the new hole, and for covering the plant roots with soil.
Garden Pruners
To trim any dead or broken parts from the plant while transplanting.
Watering Can
To water the plant both before and after transplanting.
Wheelbarrow
Useful for moving the queen anthurium plant if it's large or if the new planting location is far from the original location.
How Do You Remove Queen Anthurium from the Soil?
From Ground: Start by watering the queen anthurium plant until the ground around it becomes moist, as this will make it easier to extract the plant and will do less damage to the roots. With a spade, dig a wide trench around the plant, all the while ensuring to not disrupt the root ball. Once a sufficient trench is made, carefully work the spade beneath the root ball, lifting the plant from its original location.
From Pot: Begin by watering the queen anthurium plant in its container. Then, tilt the container to one side and gently tap it to loosen the plant. If the plant does not slide out easily, you may need to grip the base of the plant and pull it out very gently, ensuring you do not harm the root ball.
From Seedling Tray: Water the seedlings firstly. Then, use a spoon or a small trowel to carefully remove the queen anthurium seedling from its cell, taking as much of the root system with you as possible.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Queen Anthurium
Step1 Preparation
Thoroughly water the queen anthurium plant a couple of hours before the planned move. This makes the plant easier to extract and fewer roots will get damaged.
Step2 Digging
Use a shovel or spade and dig a hole in the new location, which should be twice as wide and of the same depth as the plant's root ball.
Step3 Placement
Position the queen anthurium plant in the center of the hole. Adjust the hole depth if necessary to ensure the plant is at the same depth as before. This is crucial as planting too deep or too shallow can harm the plant.
Step4 Backfilling
Fill in the hole with the original soil, pressing down gently to remove air pockets and to secure the plant.
Step5 Watering
Water the plant thoroughly immediately after transplanting, and regularly over the next few weeks as it gets established in its new location.
How Do You Care For Queen Anthurium After Transplanting?
Mulching
Apply a layer of mulch around the queen anthurium plant to help maintain soil moisture and prevent competitive weeds from growing. Avoid piling mulch against the stem of the plant.
Pruning
Remove any damaged, diseased, or dead parts of the queen anthurium plant after transplanting. Avoid substantial pruning immediately after transplanting to prevent shocking the plant.
Monitoring
Keep eye on the queen anthurium plant. If it begins showing signs of stress, such as wilting or discolored leaves, it may need different care or may not be adjusting well to its new location.
Patience
It takes time for the queen anthurium plant to adjust to its new home. It may take several weeks to start new growth. In the mean time, keep up with your care routine and be patient.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Queen Anthurium Transplantation.
When should I transplant my queen anthurium?
The most optimal time to transplant your queen anthurium is during S3-S4, which is between late summer and early autumn.
What is the ideal space between queen anthurium plants when transplanting?
For best growth, ensure a distance of approximately 2-3 feet (60-90 cm) between each queen anthurium during transplanting.
Why are the leaves of my transplanted queen anthurium turning yellow?
Yellow leaves can be a sign of overwatering or insufficient drainage. Make sure your queen anthurium is not soaked and the pot drains well.
My queen anthurium is wilting post-transplant, what do I do?
Queen anthurium might wilt due to transplant shock. Ensure it's getting enough light and water, but not too much. It should bounce back within a week or two.
How deep should I plant queen anthurium during transplant?
Dig a hole that's as deep as the root ball and twice as wide. Ensure the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface.
Should I trim my queen anthurium before transplanting it?
Yes, trimming helps promote healthier and more controlled growth. Remove any unhealthy-looking or excessively large leaves before transplanting.
How to handle roots when transplanting my queen anthurium?
Very gently! Avoid damaging roots during transplanting. If the roots are tightly wound, gently tease them apart before planting.
Is it necessary to fertilize queen anthurium right after transplanting?
No, it's better to wait a few weeks before feeding your newly transplanted queen anthurium. This allows the plant to adjust to its new environment first.
My transplanted queen anthurium isn't growing, what could be the problem?
Check for root-bound plants. If roots fill the pot or circle the soil surface, it can affect growth. Remember, less is more with watering.
How long does it take for queen anthurium to establish after transplanting?
It could take up to a few weeks for your queen anthurium to fully establish after being transplanted, depending on its care and environment.
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