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Alexandra Palm
Alexandra Palm
Alexandra Palm
Alexandra Palm
Alexandra Palm
Alexandra Palm
Alexandra Palm
Archontophoenix alexandrae
Also known as : Northern Bangalow Palm
The alexandra Palm grows in rainforests and has the ability to withstand heavy rain, making it a dominant species in these habitats. It's often used as an ornamental plant for its feather-like dark green foliage. It's found in parts of Australia, as well as in the U.S. states of Florida and Hawaii.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
10
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care guide

Care Guide for Alexandra Palm

Soil Care
Soil Care
Loam, Clay, Sandy loam, Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
What Are the Lighting Requirements for Alexandra Palm?
What Are the Lighting Requirements for Alexandra Palm?
Partial sun, Full sun
Details on Sunlight Requirements What Are the Lighting Requirements for Alexandra Palm?
What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Alexandra Palm?
What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Alexandra Palm?
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Details on Temperature What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Alexandra Palm?
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Alexandra Palm
Water
Water
Every 2 weeks
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
10
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Questions About Alexandra Palm

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Alexandra Palm?
Your Alexandra Palm will not be too picky about how you choose to water it. As such, you can use just about any common watering tool to moisten this plant’s soil. Watering cans, hoses, and even cups will work just fine when it is time to water your Alexandra Palm. Regardless of which watering tool you use, you should typically apply the water directly to the soil. In doing so, you should ensure that you moisten all soil areas equally to give all parts of the root system the water it needs. It can help to use filtered water, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to plants. It is also beneficial to use water that is at or slightly above room temperature, as colder or hotter water can be somewhat shocking to the Alexandra Palm. However, the Alexandra Palm usually responds well to any kind of water you give it.
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What should I do if I water my Alexandra Palm too much or too little?
For outdoor plants, especially newly planted plants or plant seedlings, they can be prone to lack of watering. Remember that you need to keep watering enough for a few months when the tree is small or just planted. This is because once the roots are established, Alexandra Palm can rely on rain most of the time.
When your Alexandra Palm is planted in pots, overwatering is often more likely to.When you accidentally overwater your Alexandra Palm, you should be prepared to remedy the situation immediately. First, you should stop watering your plant right away to minimize the effect of your overwatering. After, you should consider removing your Alexandra Palm from its pot to inspect its roots. If you find that none of the roots have developed root rot, it may be permissible to return your plant to its container. If you do discover signs of root rot, then you should trim away any roots that have been affected. You may also want to apply a fungicide to prevent further damage. Lastly, you should repot your Alexandra Palm in soil that is well-draining. In the case of an underwatered Alexandra Palm, simply water this plant more frequently.
Underwatering is often an easy fix. If you underwater, the plant's leaves will tend to droop and dry out and fall off, and the leaves will quickly return to fullness after sufficient watering. Please correct your watering frequency as soon as underwatering occurs.
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How often should I water my Alexandra Palm?
Most plants that grow naturally outdoors can be allowed to grow normally with rainfall. If your area lacks rainfall, consider giving your plants adequate watering every 2 weeks during the spring and fall. More frequent watering is needed in summer. In winter, when growth becomes slower and plants need less water, water more sparingly. Throughout the winter, you may not give it additional watering at all. If your Alexandra Palm is young or newly planted, then you should water more frequently to help it establish, and mature and grow up to have more adaptable and drought tolerant plants.
For potted plants, there are two main ways that you can determine how often to water your Alexandra Palm. The first way is to set a predetermined watering schedule. If you choose this route, you should plan to water this plant about once every week or once every other week. However, this approach may not always work as it does not consider the unique conditions of the growing environment for your Alexandra Palm .
Your watering frequency can also change depending on the season. For instance, a predetermined watering schedule will likely not suffice during summer when this plant's water needs are highest. An alternative route is to set your watering frequency based on soil moisture. Typically, it is best to wait until the first two to four inches of soil, usually ⅓ to ½ depth of the pots, have dried out entirely before you give more water.
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How much water does my Alexandra Palm need?
When it comes time to water your Alexandra Palm, you may be surprised to find that this plant does not always need a high volume of water. Instead, if only a few inches of soil have dried since your last watering, you can support healthy growth in the Alexandra Palm by giving it about five to ten ounces of water every time you water. You can also decide your water volume based on soil moisture. As mentioned above, you should note how many inches of soil have dried out between waterings. A surefire way to make sure your Alexandra Palm gets the moisture it needs is to supply enough water to moisten all the soil layers that became dry since the last time you watered. If more than half of the soil has become dry, you should consider giving more water than usual. In those cases, continue adding water until you see excess water draining from your pot’s drainage holes.
If your Alexandra Palm is planted in an area that gets plenty of rain outdoors, it may not need additional watering. When the Alexandra Palm is young or just getting established, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As it continues to grow and establish, it can survive entirely on rainwater and only when the weather is hot and there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving your Alexandra Palm a full watering to prevent them from suffering stress.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Alexandra Palm enough?
Overwatering is a far more common problem for the Alexandra Palm, and there are several signs you should look for when this occurs. Generally, an overwatered Alexandra Palm will have yellowing leaves and may even drop some leaves. Also, overwatering can cause the overall structure of your plant to shrivel and may also promote root rot. On the other hand, an underwatered Alexandra Palm will also begin to wilt. It may also display leaves that are brown or brittle to the touch. Whether you see signs of overwatering or underwatering, you should be prepared to intervene and restore the health of your Alexandra Palm.
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How can I water my Alexandra Palm at different growth stages?
When the Alexandra Palm is very young, such as when it is in a seedling stage, you will need to give it more water than you would if it were at a mature age. During the early stages of this plant’s life, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist to encourage root development. The same is true for any Alexandra Palm that you have transplanted to a new growing location. Also, the Alexandra Palm can develop showy flowers and fruits when you give them the correct care. If your Alexandra Palm is in a flowering or fruiting phase, you will likely need to give a bit more water than you usually would to support these plant structures.
Read More more
How can I water my Alexandra Palm through the seasons?
The seasonal changes will affect how often you water your Alexandra Palm. Mainly, during the hottest summer months, you will likely need to increase how much you water this plant, especially if it grows in an area that receives ample sunlight. Strong summer sunlight can cause soil to dry out much faster than usual, meaning that you’ll need to water more frequently. By contrast, your Alexandra Palm will need much less water during the winter, as it will not be in an active growing phase. During winter, you can get by with watering once every 2 to 3 weeks or sometimes not at all. For those growing this plant indoors, you should be somewhat wary of appliances such as air conditioners, which can cause your plant to dry out more quickly, which also calls for more frequent watering.
Read More more
What's the difference between watering my Alexandra Palm indoors vs outdoors?
In some cases, your Alexandra Palm may not need any supplemental watering when it grows outside and will survive on rainwater alone. However, if you live in an area of little to no rain, you should water this plant about every two weeks. If you belong to the group of people who live out of this plant's natural hardiness zone, you should grow it indoors. In an indoor setting, you should monitor your plant's soil as it can dry out more quickly when it is in a container or when it is exposed to HVAC units such as air conditioners. Those drying factors will lead you to water this plant a bit more often than if you grew it outdoors.
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Key Facts About Alexandra Palm

Attributes of Alexandra Palm

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Tree
Bloom Time
Summer
Plant Height
12 m to 18 m
Spread
3 m to 5 m
Leaf Color
Green
Silver
Gray
Flower Size
2.5 cm
Flower Color
Cream
White
Yellow
Fruit Color
Red
Stem Color
Green
Gray
Silver
Leaf type
Evergreen

Scientific Classification of Alexandra Palm

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Alexandra Palm

Common issues for Alexandra Palm based on 10 million real cases
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Fruit withering
Fruit withering Fruit withering
Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Branch blight
Branch blight Branch blight
Branch blight
Branch blight can cause lignified branches to dry up entirely and die.
Solutions: Inspect trees frequently, and remove any infected branches as soon as possible. Branch blight cannot be cured, so the only treatment is to prune the tree and monitor it carefully for signs of the disease. All affected parts of the tree should be removed, since blight can survive over the winter inside the plant’s tissues. Blight can become systemic in the tree, in which case the entire plant should be removed so it does not remain a host for the pathogen and allow it to spread.
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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Fruit withering
plant poor
Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Overview
Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
  1. Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
  2. Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
  3. Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
  4. Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.
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Branch blight
plant poor
Branch blight
Branch blight can cause lignified branches to dry up entirely and die.
Overview
Overview
"Blight" is an umbrella term used to describe a category of tree diseases caused by fungus or bacteria. Branch blight occurs when fungus attacks the branches and twigs of a tree, resulting in branches slowly dying off.
Branch blight can affect most species of trees to some degree, and it may be called by different names including twig blight or stem blight. It is caused by a variety of fungi which attack branches first, especially immature growth.
Blight usually occurs in warm, humid conditions, so is most common in the spring and summer months. Because specific environmental conditions are required, the frequency of branch blight can vary from year to year. This makes the disease hard to control, as it can spread between trees and affect multiple plants in a short period of time.
In the worst-case scenario, trees can lose significant portions of their foliage and fail to produce fruit. Young or unhealthy trees could die off completely.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first symptoms of branch blight are that the emerging foliage turns brown or gray at the tips, especially on the smallest branches. Brown spots cover the entire surface of the leaves, eventually causing leaves and stems to shrivel and fall off. Over time, the dying tissue will spread toward the center of the plant. If left untreated, spores from the attacking fungus may appear on dying foliage within 3-4 weeks of the infection.
In some cases, lesions may form at the spot where the twig branches off from the healthy tissue. Branches may display girdling, which is a band of damaged tissue encircling the branch. An untreated tree will eventually lose all of its foliage and die.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
  • Pathogens on young twigs and foliage cause disease
  • Stressed and unhealthy trees are more susceptible - root injury due to physical or insect damage, infection, or aging can prevent adequate absorption of water and nutrients
  • Extremely wet conditions including sprinkler watering can attract fungus
  • Fungi can be transmitted between nearby trees
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Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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distribution

Distribution of Alexandra Palm

Habitat of Alexandra Palm

Swamps
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Alexandra Palm

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
habit
care_scenes

More Info on Alexandra Palm Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
Explore More
Lighting
Partial sun
Alexandra Palm thrives best in areas where it can receive a considerable amount of sun without being completely exposed to it. It can withstand areas with the full intensity of the sun. However, overexposure could potentially impede optimal growth. Originating from a habitat with significant sun exposure, different growth stages aren't remarkably influenced by sunlight changes.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
5 41 ℃
Alexandra Palm is a plant that thrives in its native subtropical climates, preferring temperatures of 68 to 95 °F (20 to 35 ℃). In cooler seasons, adjusting the surrounding temperature closer to its preferred range is suggested to maintain healthy growth.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
8-10 feet
The best season to transplant alexandra Palm is between spring (S2) and autumn (S4), as the moderate temperatures ensure swift recovery. Location-wise, a sunny to partially-shaded spot is suitable. Top tip: Keep the soil well-drained but moist to promote comforting conditions post-transplant.
Transplant Techniques
Feng shui direction
North
The alexandra Palm boasts a harmonious relationship with northern-facing landscapes as per Feng Shui principles. This direction aligns with the Water element, which is naturally supported by the Wood element embodied by this tall, straight-trunked palm. Still, it's a subjective interpretation as balance is a personal perception.
Fengshui Details
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Lilyturf
The Ophiopogon bodinieri is an evergreen perennial grass that will grow to 30 cm tall and 30 cm wide. It blooms small white flowers in summer, which are followed by dark blueberries. It makes a lovely border around gardens, lawns, and landscape plants. An excellent ground cover, it forms a weed-proof mat.
Leafy spurge
Leafy spurge
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Golden pothos
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Related Plants
Alexandra Palm
Alexandra Palm
Alexandra Palm
Alexandra Palm
Alexandra Palm
Alexandra Palm
Alexandra Palm
Archontophoenix alexandrae
Also known as: Northern Bangalow Palm
The alexandra Palm grows in rainforests and has the ability to withstand heavy rain, making it a dominant species in these habitats. It's often used as an ornamental plant for its feather-like dark green foliage. It's found in parts of Australia, as well as in the U.S. states of Florida and Hawaii.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
10
more
care guide

Care Guide for Alexandra Palm

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Questions About Alexandra Palm

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Alexandra Palm?
more
What should I do if I water my Alexandra Palm too much or too little?
more
How often should I water my Alexandra Palm?
more
How much water does my Alexandra Palm need?
more
How can I tell if i'm watering my Alexandra Palm enough?
more
How can I water my Alexandra Palm at different growth stages?
more
How can I water my Alexandra Palm through the seasons?
more
What's the difference between watering my Alexandra Palm indoors vs outdoors?
more
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Keep your plants happy and healthy with our guide to watering, lighting, feeding and more.
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plant_info

Key Facts About Alexandra Palm

Attributes of Alexandra Palm

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Tree
Bloom Time
Summer
Plant Height
12 m to 18 m
Spread
3 m to 5 m
Leaf Color
Green
Silver
Gray
Flower Size
2.5 cm
Flower Color
Cream
White
Yellow
Fruit Color
Red
Stem Color
Green
Gray
Silver
Leaf type
Evergreen
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Scientific Classification of Alexandra Palm

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Alexandra Palm

Common issues for Alexandra Palm based on 10 million real cases
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More About the Aged yellow and dry more
Fruit withering
Fruit withering Fruit withering Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Learn More About the Fruit withering more
Branch blight
Branch blight Branch blight Branch blight
Branch blight can cause lignified branches to dry up entirely and die.
Solutions: Inspect trees frequently, and remove any infected branches as soon as possible. Branch blight cannot be cured, so the only treatment is to prune the tree and monitor it carefully for signs of the disease. All affected parts of the tree should be removed, since blight can survive over the winter inside the plant’s tissues. Blight can become systemic in the tree, in which case the entire plant should be removed so it does not remain a host for the pathogen and allow it to spread.
Learn More About the Branch blight more
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More About the Brown spot more
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Fruit withering
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Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Overview
Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
  1. Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
  2. Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
  3. Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
  4. Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.
Solutions
Solutions
There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering:
  1. Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost.
  2. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventative measures include:
  1. Ensuring adequate spacing between plants or trees.
  2. Staking plants that are prone to tumbling to prevent moisture or humidity build up.
  3. Prune correctly so that there is adequate air movement and remove any dead or diseased branches that may carry spores.
  4. Practice good plant hygiene by removing fallen material and destroying it as soon as possible.
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Branch blight
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Branch blight
Branch blight can cause lignified branches to dry up entirely and die.
Overview
Overview
"Blight" is an umbrella term used to describe a category of tree diseases caused by fungus or bacteria. Branch blight occurs when fungus attacks the branches and twigs of a tree, resulting in branches slowly dying off.
Branch blight can affect most species of trees to some degree, and it may be called by different names including twig blight or stem blight. It is caused by a variety of fungi which attack branches first, especially immature growth.
Blight usually occurs in warm, humid conditions, so is most common in the spring and summer months. Because specific environmental conditions are required, the frequency of branch blight can vary from year to year. This makes the disease hard to control, as it can spread between trees and affect multiple plants in a short period of time.
In the worst-case scenario, trees can lose significant portions of their foliage and fail to produce fruit. Young or unhealthy trees could die off completely.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first symptoms of branch blight are that the emerging foliage turns brown or gray at the tips, especially on the smallest branches. Brown spots cover the entire surface of the leaves, eventually causing leaves and stems to shrivel and fall off. Over time, the dying tissue will spread toward the center of the plant. If left untreated, spores from the attacking fungus may appear on dying foliage within 3-4 weeks of the infection.
In some cases, lesions may form at the spot where the twig branches off from the healthy tissue. Branches may display girdling, which is a band of damaged tissue encircling the branch. An untreated tree will eventually lose all of its foliage and die.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
  • Pathogens on young twigs and foliage cause disease
  • Stressed and unhealthy trees are more susceptible - root injury due to physical or insect damage, infection, or aging can prevent adequate absorption of water and nutrients
  • Extremely wet conditions including sprinkler watering can attract fungus
  • Fungi can be transmitted between nearby trees
Solutions
Solutions
  • Inspect trees frequently, and remove any infected branches as soon as possible. Branch blight cannot be cured, so the only treatment is to prune the tree and monitor it carefully for signs of the disease.
  • All affected parts of the tree should be removed, since blight can survive over the winter inside the plant’s tissues.
  • Blight can become systemic in the tree, in which case the entire plant should be removed so it does not remain a host for the pathogen and allow it to spread.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Avoid purchasing trees with dead or dying growth.
  • Sterilize cutting tools frequently when pruning to avoid spreading fungus between plants.
  • Keep trees mulched and watered, especially during dry periods, to prevent stress.
  • Avoid splashing water on the leaves when watering, as wet foliage is attractive to fungi and bacteria.
  • When planting, allow enough room between trees that there will be sufficient air circulation for them to dry out. Crowding trees too close together can increase humidity and allow the fungi to transfer.
  • When conditions are wet and humid, a fungicide can be used on new growth.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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distribution

Distribution of Alexandra Palm

Habitat of Alexandra Palm

Swamps
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Alexandra Palm

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
care_scenes

More Info on Alexandra Palm Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Partial sun
Ideal
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Full sun
Tolerance
Above 6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Alexandra Palm thrives best in areas where it can receive a considerable amount of sun without being completely exposed to it. It can withstand areas with the full intensity of the sun. However, overexposure could potentially impede optimal growth. Originating from a habitat with significant sun exposure, different growth stages aren't remarkably influenced by sunlight changes.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Alexandra Palm is a popular indoor plant that prefers partial sunlight but can handle full sunlight in cooler weather. However, when placed in corners of rooms for extended periods, it may develop symptoms of light deficiency due to insufficient light exposure.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Alexandra Palm may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Alexandra Palm enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To optimize plant growth, shift them to increasingly sunnier spots each week until they receive 3-6 hours of direct sunlight daily, enabling gradual adaptation to changing light conditions.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Alexandra Palm thrives with partial sun exposure and can tolerate full sun in cooler weather. However, they are more susceptible to sunburn, as they cannot withstand intense sunlight in high-temperature environments.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Alexandra Palm is a plant that thrives in its native subtropical climates, preferring temperatures of 68 to 95 °F (20 to 35 ℃). In cooler seasons, adjusting the surrounding temperature closer to its preferred range is suggested to maintain healthy growth.
Regional wintering strategies
Alexandra Palm is extremely heat-loving, and any cold temperatures can cause harm to it. In the autumn, it is recommended to bring outdoor-grown Alexandra Palm indoors and place it near a bright window, but it should be kept at a certain distance from heaters. Maintaining temperatures above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} during winter is beneficial for plant growth. Any temperatures approaching {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min} are detrimental to the plant.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Alexandra Palm prefers warm temperatures and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves may lighten in color. After frost damage, the color gradually turns brown or black, and symptoms such as wilting and drooping may occur.
Solutions
Trim off the frost-damaged parts. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment for cold protection. Choose a spot near a south-facing window to place the plant, ensuring ample sunlight. Additionally, avoid placing the plant near heaters or air conditioning vents to prevent excessive dryness in the air.
High Temperature
During summer, Alexandra Palm should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the color of the leaves becomes lighter, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Alexandra Palm?
The best season to transplant alexandra Palm is between spring (S2) and autumn (S4), as the moderate temperatures ensure swift recovery. Location-wise, a sunny to partially-shaded spot is suitable. Top tip: Keep the soil well-drained but moist to promote comforting conditions post-transplant.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Alexandra Palm?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Alexandra Palm?
Late winter to spring is the prime time to transplant your alexandra Palm. The mild weather encourages healthy root development, fostering vigorous growth in the next season. You'll be amazed how quickly alexandra Palm settles in its new home, flourishing beautifully. Remember, good preparation yields great results!
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Alexandra Palm Plants?
When you're ready to transplant your alexandra Palm, don't forget spacing. Leave a distance of around 8-10 feet (2.4-3 metres) between plants to ensure they grow and thrive with ample air circulation and associated benefits.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Alexandra Palm Transplanting?
Your alexandra Palm prefers fertile, well-drained soil. A soil base rich in organic matter would be splendid. And before setting the alexandra Palm, it's worthwhile to amend the soil with a balanced-release fertilizer. This gets your alexandra Palm off to the best start possible.
Where Should You Relocate Your Alexandra Palm?
For ideal growth, set your alexandra Palm in a location where it will receive full sun exposure. This means somewhere that receives sunlight for at least 6 hours a day. But don't worry, the alexandra Palm can also tolerate shaded locations, provided they get partial sunlight during the day.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Alexandra Palm?
Gardening Gloves
They are helpful to protect your hands while working with the soil and plants.
Spade or Shovel
You’ll require a spade or a shovel to dig the soil while removing the alexandra Palm from its original location and transplanting it to the new location.
Gardening Fork
A gardening fork is useful in removing the plant carefully from its pot or loosening the ground soil.
Rootball Cloth or Bag
This will help you in wrapping the plant's roots during the transition process to prevent them from drying out.
Bucket or Wheelbarrow
To carry the plant from old location to the new one.
Watering Can
To water the plant after transplantation.
How Do You Remove Alexandra Palm from the Soil?
From Ground: Start by watering the alexandra Palm plant to saturate the soil around it. This can make the removal process easier. Use a spade or shovel to dig a wide ring around the plant, ensuring the plant's root ball remains intact. Gently work the spade under the root ball to lift the plant from its original location with care.
From Pot: Water the alexandra Palm plant prior to removal. After watering, tip the pot sideways gently while holding onto the base of the plant. If the plant is not coming out, you may need to tap the pot lightly to loosen the soil and roots.
From Seedling Tray: Water the seedlings lightly. Carefully hold the alexandra Palm plant by the stem, near the compost. Gently lift while supporting the root ball using a spoon or a dull knife, and ensure all roots are free of the tray section before removal.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Alexandra Palm
Step1 Preparation
Before beginning the transplantation process, water the alexandra Palm plant properly. This could help the plant handle the shock of transplantation more effectively.
Step2 Prepare the planting hole
Dig a hole in the new location. The hole should be twice the size of the root ball.
Step3 Transplant
Place the alexandra Palm into the hole ensuring it is planted to the same depth as it was in its original location.
Step4 Settling In
Fill around the root ball with soil, firming gently as you go to remove any air pockets.
Step5 Watering
Once the plant has been placed, saturate the planting area thoroughly with a watering can.
How Do You Care For Alexandra Palm After Transplanting?
Watering
Keep the soil around the alexandra Palm consistently moist for the first few weeks after transplanting. This helps in establishing strong roots.
Growth Monitoring
Keep a close eye on your alexandra Palm plant after transplanting. Look out for any signs of transplant shock like wilting, yellowing, and leaf drop.
Protection
Protect your newly transplanted alexandra Palm from direct sun, winds, or harsh weather for few days after transplanting until it's well settled.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Alexandra Palm Transplantation.
When's the best time to transplant alexandra Palm?
The ideal time to transplant alexandra Palm is during the second to fourth seasons of growth, often referred to as late spring to early autumn.
What is the best distance apart to dedicate for each alexandra Palm I transplant?
To provide sufficient growth areas for each alexandra Palm, make sure to space them about 8-10 feet (2.4-3 meters) apart. It'll avoid overcrowding and enhance growth.
What type of soil works best for alexandra Palm transplantation?
Alexandra Palm prefers sandy, well-draining soil. It appreciates slightly acidic to neutral pH levels, offering the best conditions for healthy root development.
How deep should I plant the alexandra Palm during transplantation?
Plant alexandra Palm at the same depth it was growing before. This depth typically ranges from 12 to 18 inches (30.4 to 45.7 cm), promoting optimal growth.
What's the best way to prepare the root ball for alexandra Palm transplantation?
Before transplanting, liberate the roots by slightly disturbing the root ball. Be gentle not to damage them, thus initiating better establishment in the new place.
Do I need to water alexandra Palm immediately after transplanting?
Absolutely, give alexandra Palm a thorough watering after transplantation. It helps settle the soil around the root ball and secures the plant in its new environment.
In case of wilting after transplanting alexandra Palm, what should I do?
Wilting might suggest water stress. Ensure the soil is well-draining and water the alexandra Palm thoroughly. If wilting persists, consider shading the plant temporarily.
Do I need to stake alexandra Palm after transplanting?
Staking is essential for taller specimens of alexandra Palm after transplanting. Stakes help provide stability while the roots anchor themselves into the new soil.
Can I fertilize alexandra Palm immediately after transplanting?
No, wait for 4-6 weeks after transplanting alexandra Palm before applying any fertilizer. Giving the plant ample time to settle helps prevent root burn from fertilizers.
What should I do if the transplanted alexandra Palm shows yellowing leaves?
Yellowing in alexandra Palm may indicate a nutrient deficiency, often iron. Apply a balanced slow-release fertilizer with trace elements, and ensure the soil pH is within an acceptable range.
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