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Add to My Garden Cabbage
Brassica oleracea
Also known as: Brussels sprouts, Cauliflower
When you look at a wild cabbage plant, you may be surprised by how many edible vegetables were derived from it. Native peoples selectively cultivated the wild cabbage over centuries to produce broccoli, cauliflower, kale, kohlrabi, and more. The wild form of the plant is also edible.
Spring, Fall
Planting Time
Care Guide for Cabbage
Water Cabbage weekly on average, varying the frequency depending on how hot and dry it is. Keep the soil slightly moist but not soggy. Avoid splashing water on the leaves to help prevent mildew and pest infestations. Water before and after applying fertilizer.
Amend the soil with compost or slow-release, balanced fertilizer during planting or transplanting cabbage. A slow-release fertilizer can also be applied every three months. Alternatively, a 10-10-10 fertilizer can be applied every one or two weeks.
Trim the diseased, withered leaves once a month.
Sand, Loam, Clay, Chalky, Alkaline
Needs excellent drainage in pots.
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Cabbage
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
6 to 11
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
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Cabbage
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
6 to 11
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
Download
Cabbage
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
6 to 11
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
Download
Questions About Cabbage
Watering 
Pruning 
Sunlight 
Temperature 
Fertilizing What is the best way to water my Cabbage?
Not only does the Cabbage have certain preferences regarding how much water it receives, but it also cares deeply about how you provide that water. In fact, if you don't use the proper watering technique, you risk harming your tomatoes. The best way to water Cabbage is to apply the water directly to the soil in a slow and gentle manner. You should not pour all of the water into the soil at once, and you should not do overhead watering for your Cabbage. Although you should water slowly, you should also water deeply to ensure that all of the soil in which your Cabbage grows is sufficiently moist.
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What should I do if I water my Cabbage too much or too little?
If you find that you have overwatered your Cabbage and you are concerned about the associated risk of disease, you should intervene immediately. Often the best approach for an overwatered Cabbage is to uproot it from its current growing location. Once the plant is out of the ground, you can allow its roots to dry a bit before planting it in a new growing location. Ensure that the new growing location has soil with good drainage. If you grow in pots, you may also want to move your plant to a pot with more or larger drainage holes. In the case of underwatering, all you will need to do is increase the frequency with which you supply water to your plant.
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How often should I water my Cabbage?
Overall, Cabbage requires a significant amount of water throughout the growing season. To meet that high water need, you'll need to water early and often throughout the spring and summer. During the earlier parts of the growing season, you should water your Cabbage about once or twice per week. As the season progresses, you should increase your watering frequency. You may need to water it twice per day or more during summer, depending on the weather. After your Cabbage have gone through their major seasonal growth phases, you can reduce the frequency of your watering to about once per week until the end of the growing season.
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How much water does my Cabbage need?
Since Cabbage are incredibly popular, with many professional and amateur gardeners growing them successfully, we have a pretty clear idea of how to care for these plants. That understanding includes specific knowledge about the precise volume of water an average Cabbage should receive. Generally, Cabbage will require about 1 - 1.5 inches of water per week. That volume should be dispersed evenly through your weekly watering. As the weather gets warmer, you may need to supply more water, but in most cases, two inches per week is a good baseline amount.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Cabbage enough?
Underwatering and overwatering can both occur as problems for your Cabbage, and both these problems can manifest with similar symptoms. For example, foliage discoloration and wilting can both result from either overwatering or underwatering. When your Cabbage is underwatered, its leaves will be curling and drooping at the beginning. You will see a bunch of leaves turn less vigorous. Underwatering is also likely to cause stunted growth and poor overall development as both the flowers and this plant require a high amount of water. Overwatering is more likely to lead to disease, including rot. Overwatering may also lead to unpleasant smells rising from your plant's soil. The symptoms of underwatering will show up quicker than overwatering. Overwatering can also be evident in soil conditions. Mainly, if you notice a lot of standing water or waterlogged soils, overwatering is likely to occur.
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How should I water my Cabbage through the seasons?
As alluded to above, your Cabbage's water needs will repeatedly change throughout the seasons. During most of spring and summer, you should water your Cabbage about once every week. As the heat of summer arrives, you should plan to increase your watering frequency to once or twice per day. In the late summer and fall, towards the end of the harvest period, you can reduce your watering frequency to about once per week. After harvest has ended, you can cease watering as your Cabbage has reached the end of its life cycle and will require no further soil moisture.
The maintenance schedule of Cabbage will require you to alter the amount of water you provide depending on the plant's current growth stage. Early on, especially if you grow your Cabbage from seeds, you'll need to provide water often enough to maintain consistent soil moisture, which encourages root development. When the plant becomes old enough to produce flowers, it will likely need even more water. During the fruit development growth stage, your Cabbage will likely need the most water out of any growth period, at times requiring water more than twice per day. Following that phase, the water needs of Cabbage will decline significantly.
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What's the difference between watering Cabbage indoors and outdoors?
Whether you grow Cabbage indoors or outdoors can also play a role in how you water them. Cabbage that grows outdoors may receive water from natural rainfall, which will reduce the amount of supplemental water you should supply. However, it is incredibly rare for rainfall to adequately replace your watering entirely. Plants that grow indoors, along with any Cabbage that grows in a container, will need to be watered more frequently than those that grow in the ground outdoors. If you choose this route, please make sure that the plant gets enough water by checking the soil moisture within your pot often to keep your Cabbage healthy.
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Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Cabbage based on 10 million real cases
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Leaf miners
Leaf miners scar the leaves with curved white streaks or rounded white spots with brown centers.
Solutions: Leaf miners, although relatively harmless at first, can quickly multiply and devastate your plants in the coming weeks. For severe cases: Spray an organic insecticide. For an organic solution, spray a diluted mixture of azadirachtin, a compound derived from neem seeds, above and below leaves. Spray a synthetic insecticide. Spray a product that contains spinosad, such as Entrust, making sure to cover all sides of the leaves. Introduce beneficial insects. Introduce beneficial insects that eat leaf miners, such as parasitic wasps or Syrphid flies. For less severe cases: Prune infected tissue. Remove and dispose of leaves that have any sign of leaf miner damage.
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Keep your leafy friends healthy and happy.
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
- Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
- Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
- Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
- Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
- Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
- Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
- Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
- Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Leaf miners
Leaf miners scar the leaves with curved white streaks or rounded white spots with brown centers.
Symptom Analysis
The leaves on your plants are showing clear/white trails, which appear like parts have been hollowed out. These trails are narrow at first and become wide patches over time. In some cases, leaves will be completely hollow and dry on the plant. As the name suggests, leaf miners are responsible.
Leaf miners are most common in the early spring when they begin to hatch and reproduce. They are tiny 1/16th inch larvae that resemble small grains of rice. The larvae are found inside leaves. The adult stage, a fly, lays eggs in between the layers of a leaf. When the eggs hatch, the larvae eat the tender nutritious inner leaves.
Solutions
Leaf miners, although relatively harmless at first, can quickly multiply and devastate your plants in the coming weeks.
For severe cases:
- Spray an organic insecticide. For an organic solution, spray a diluted mixture of azadirachtin, a compound derived from neem seeds, above and below leaves.
- Spray a synthetic insecticide. Spray a product that contains spinosad, such as Entrust, making sure to cover all sides of the leaves.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Introduce beneficial insects that eat leaf miners, such as parasitic wasps or Syrphid flies.
For less severe cases:
- Prune infected tissue. Remove and dispose of leaves that have any sign of leaf miner damage.
Prevention
Although leaf miners are easy to control, preventing them is ideal. Our recommendations are:
- Physically exclude adults. Cover plants with floating row covers as soon as you put them in the ground.
- Remove weeds and debris. Keep your garden weeded to lower the number of plants leaf miners can feed and breed on.
- Avoid introducing infected plants. Carefully inspect new plants for leaf miners before adding them to your garden or home.
- Avoid broad-spectrum pesticides. Leaf miners can usually be controlled by natural predatory insects. Do not apply broad-spectrum insecticides that could harm these beneficial insects.
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
- Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
- Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
- Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
- Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
- Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
- Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
- Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
- Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
- Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
- Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
- Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
- Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
- Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
- Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
- Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
- Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
- Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
- Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Distribution Map
Habitat
Sea cliffs
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info
Flower Color
Yellow
Bloom Time
Spring
Leaf Color
Green
Blue
Red
Name story
Cabbage
Cabbage comes from the word, caboche from the Middle English language meaning 'head'. Coincidentally, its circled-shaped appearance looks like the shape of a head. Hence, it is called cabbage.
Symbolism
prosperity
Usages
Garden Use
Cabbage is one of the more popular plants grown in vegetable gardens. It is prized for its ease of cultivation and even has several ornamental varieties to use as accent plants. Cabbage is typically grown with lettuce, herbs, beans, or celery to promote healthy soil and support each other.
Scientific Classification
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Peace lily
Peace lily (Spathiphyllum cochlearispathum) is a plant species that is native to southern Mexico. Peace lily is commonly cultivated as an ornamental houseplant. This species should not be grown in direct sunlight.
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The spider plant is a green perennial plant with long, thin leaves that earn it another name, "ribbon plant." It has spread far from its native Africa because it is easy to care for. Since spider plants grow well in partial or full shade, they have become popular houseplants.
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Add to My Garden Cabbage
Brassica oleracea
Also known as: Brussels sprouts, Cauliflower
Spring, Fall
Planting Time
Care Guide for Cabbage
Water
Water Cabbage weekly on average, varying the frequency depending on how hot and dry it is. Keep the soil slightly moist but not soggy. Avoid splashing water on the leaves to help prevent mildew and pest infestations. Water before and after applying fertilizer.
Fertilization
Amend the soil with compost or slow-release, balanced fertilizer during planting or transplanting cabbage. A slow-release fertilizer can also be applied every three months. Alternatively, a 10-10-10 fertilizer can be applied every one or two weeks.
Pruning
Trim the diseased, withered leaves once a month.
Soil
Sand, Loam, Clay, Chalky, Alkaline
Potting Suggestions
Needs excellent drainage in pots.
Tips, advice, and instructions for over 13,000 species that you will find nowhere else
Cabbage
Brassica oleracea
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
6 to 11
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
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Questions About Cabbage
Watering Pruning Sunlight Temperature Fertilizing What is the best way to water my Cabbage?
Free
What should I do if I water my Cabbage too much or too little?
Free
How often should I water my Cabbage?
Free
How much water does my Cabbage need?
How can I tell if i'm watering my Cabbage enough?
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You’ve got questions. We’ve got answers.
Let us help take all the guesswork out of your gardening.
More Questions People Also Ask
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Cabbage based on 10 million real cases
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Leaf miners
Leaf miners scar the leaves with curved white streaks or rounded white spots with brown centers.
Solutions: Leaf miners, although relatively harmless at first, can quickly multiply and devastate your plants in the coming weeks. For severe cases: Spray an organic insecticide. For an organic solution, spray a diluted mixture of azadirachtin, a compound derived from neem seeds, above and below leaves. Spray a synthetic insecticide. Spray a product that contains spinosad, such as Entrust, making sure to cover all sides of the leaves. Introduce beneficial insects. Introduce beneficial insects that eat leaf miners, such as parasitic wasps or Syrphid flies. For less severe cases: Prune infected tissue. Remove and dispose of leaves that have any sign of leaf miner damage.
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
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Keep your leafy friends healthy and happy.
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
- Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
- Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
- Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
- Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
- Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
- Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
- Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
- Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Leaf miners
Leaf miners scar the leaves with curved white streaks or rounded white spots with brown centers.
Symptom Analysis
The leaves on your plants are showing clear/white trails, which appear like parts have been hollowed out. These trails are narrow at first and become wide patches over time. In some cases, leaves will be completely hollow and dry on the plant. As the name suggests, leaf miners are responsible.
Leaf miners are most common in the early spring when they begin to hatch and reproduce. They are tiny 1/16th inch larvae that resemble small grains of rice. The larvae are found inside leaves. The adult stage, a fly, lays eggs in between the layers of a leaf. When the eggs hatch, the larvae eat the tender nutritious inner leaves.
Solutions
Leaf miners, although relatively harmless at first, can quickly multiply and devastate your plants in the coming weeks.
For severe cases:
- Spray an organic insecticide. For an organic solution, spray a diluted mixture of azadirachtin, a compound derived from neem seeds, above and below leaves.
- Spray a synthetic insecticide. Spray a product that contains spinosad, such as Entrust, making sure to cover all sides of the leaves.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Introduce beneficial insects that eat leaf miners, such as parasitic wasps or Syrphid flies.
For less severe cases:
- Prune infected tissue. Remove and dispose of leaves that have any sign of leaf miner damage.
Prevention
Although leaf miners are easy to control, preventing them is ideal. Our recommendations are:
- Physically exclude adults. Cover plants with floating row covers as soon as you put them in the ground.
- Remove weeds and debris. Keep your garden weeded to lower the number of plants leaf miners can feed and breed on.
- Avoid introducing infected plants. Carefully inspect new plants for leaf miners before adding them to your garden or home.
- Avoid broad-spectrum pesticides. Leaf miners can usually be controlled by natural predatory insects. Do not apply broad-spectrum insecticides that could harm these beneficial insects.
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
- Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
- Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
- Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
- Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
- Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
- Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
- Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
- Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
- Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
- Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
- Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
- Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
- Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
- Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
- Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
- Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
- Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
- Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Distribution Map
Habitat
Sea cliffs
Map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info
Flower Color
Yellow
Bloom Time
Spring
Leaf Color
Green
Blue
Red
Name story
Cabbage
Cabbage comes from the word, caboche from the Middle English language meaning 'head'. Coincidentally, its circled-shaped appearance looks like the shape of a head. Hence, it is called cabbage.
Symbolism
prosperity
Usages
Garden Use
Cabbage is one of the more popular plants grown in vegetable gardens. It is prized for its ease of cultivation and even has several ornamental varieties to use as accent plants. Cabbage is typically grown with lettuce, herbs, beans, or celery to promote healthy soil and support each other.
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