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Add to My Garden Field bindweed
Convolvulus arvensis
Also known as: Possession vine, Cornbind
Field bindweed (Convolvulus arvensis) is a native Eurasian plant related to morning glory. It is considered an invasive species in non-native areas because it competes with other plants for sunlight and moisture. Field bindweed is very hard to eradicate because its taproots grow so deep and its seeds can remain viable for decades.
3 to 10
Hardiness Zones
Weeds
Care Guide for Field bindweed
Water
Despite its deep tap roots, Field bindweed benefits from frequent watering, especially during times of little rainfall. It grows best in well-drained soil and should be watered when the surrounding soil starts to dry, especially during the spring and summer growing seasons.
Fertilization
Field bindweed is an invasive weed, albeit one with showy flowers, and its persistent growth and spread is a testament to its ability to thrive without any additional fertilizer. If grown in a garden, the plant's deep tap roots can easily derive all of its nutrient needs from the soil.
Soil
Sand, Chalky, Clay
Sunlight
Full sun, Partial sun
Hardiness Zones
3 to 10
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Field bindweed
Sunlight
Full sun
Planting Time
Spring, Early summer
Harvest Time
Summer, Fall
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Field bindweed
Sunlight
Full sun
Planting Time
Spring, Early summer
Harvest Time
Summer, Fall
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Field bindweed
Sunlight
Full sun
Planting Time
Spring, Early summer
Harvest Time
Summer, Fall
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Questions About Field bindweed
Pruning 
Sunlight 
Temperature How can I prune my Field bindweed?
Pruning your Field bindweed is a fairly simple process. First, you will need a reliable set of hand pruners or hedge trimmers. You may use a clean pair of sharp scissors if you don’t have pruners or garden shears on hand. It’s important to always clean your gardening tools before and after using them to prevent the possibility of spreading disease or infection to other plants. To prune your Field bindweed simply allow your plant to go dormant over the Winter. Some time between late winter and early spring – or when new growth starts to appear – take your clean pruners or trimmers and cut away any dying, damaged, yellow or declining foliage. Repeat this process until you reach the base of the plant or until there are no dead pieces left to cut. When pruning, be careful not to damage the new growth that may be emerging near the base of your plant. These parts cannot be restored and pruning can increase the ventilation of the plants and facilitate their growth. Any pruning that is done to this plant should be cut straight across the blades or stems. No angled cuts are required. Diseased leaf blade foliage can be removed as it appears. This could be done anytime when your Field bindweed is growing.
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What should I do after pruning my Field bindweed?
Once you’ve pruned your plant, you should dispose of the stems and leaves either by composting the healthy ones or throwing out the diseased parts. You can also fertilize just before or after pruning, which gives Field bindweed a little vitamin boost that can provide it the nutrients needed to better protect itself from any nearby pathogens or diseases. Do not water the Field bindweed immediately after pruning as this can lead to fungal infestation of the plants through the wounds. You don’t need much after care when you’re done pruning. It might benefit from light watering and some liquid plant food to encourage new growth.
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How can I prune my Field bindweed during different seasons?
Early spring and late winter are the best times to prune your Field bindweed on a large scale. If you want to control the size of your Field bindweed, you can prune them as you wish, but be careful not to prune more than a third of the size of the plant. Yellow and diseased leaves may appear during the summer months when the Field bindweed is growing vigorously and these types of leaves need to be pruned back immediately. These parts of the Field bindweed cannot be restored and pruning increases the ventilation of the plant and facilitates its growth.
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When should I prune my Field bindweed through different stages of growth?
Strategic pruning is usually done at different times of the year or during certain stages of growth depending on the plant. However, knowing when to prune your Field bindweed depends on where you live and how established your plant is. For example, if your Field bindweed is a new resident, it’s a good idea to wait until the plant starts to grow back before you start pruning. On the other hand, if your plant is already established, you will want to prune the dry or dead parts in plant before new leafy growth appears in early spring or late winter. This is the time of year when plants are dormant and pruning causes the least damage to them. This is also the best time of year to do more extensive pruning. It’s important to note that if Field bindweed is pruned too late in the season, it can leave new growth at risk for damage or disease. However, if your Field bindweed is indoors this is not a problem and you can prune at any time. Since this can affect the long-term health and appearance of your plant, it’s important to keep this in mind when deciding when and how to prune. As your Field bindweed grows larger over time, you can trim it as needed after annual pruning. Dead, damaged, or diseased leaf blade foliage can be removed as it appears. This could be done anytime when your Field bindweed is growing.
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Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Field bindweed based on 10 million real cases
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Leaf miners
Leaf miners scar the leaves with curved white streaks or rounded white spots with brown centers.
Solutions: Leaf miners, although relatively harmless at first, can quickly multiply and devastate your plants in the coming weeks. For severe cases: Spray an organic insecticide. For an organic solution, spray a diluted mixture of azadirachtin, a compound derived from neem seeds, above and below leaves. Spray a synthetic insecticide. Spray a product that contains spinosad, such as Entrust, making sure to cover all sides of the leaves. Introduce beneficial insects. Introduce beneficial insects that eat leaf miners, such as parasitic wasps or Syrphid flies. For less severe cases: Prune infected tissue. Remove and dispose of leaves that have any sign of leaf miner damage.
Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Leaf deformity
Leaf deformities can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: Follow these steps to revive plants with abnormal leaves. Remove damaged leaves: Plants can recover from damage when given the time to do so. Remove any deformed leaves so they don't continue drawing energy from the plant. This also creates room for healthier ones to grow. Stop using herbicide: Though herbicide damage is challenging to diagnose, gardeners can potentially prevent deformed leaves by not using any and by strictly following manufacturers instructions. Spray insecticide: Prevent pests from inhabiting plant leaves by spraying with insecticide regularly and practicing good natural pest prevention techniques. Apply a balanced fertilizer: Solve nutrient deficiencies and excesses by using a well-balanced fertilizer (organic or conventional both work) before planting, and consider topdressing when signs of stress are apparent. Fix watering schedule: If plant leaves are curled downward due to too much or too little water, adjust the watering schedule so the soil is moist, but not damp. Remove infected plants: If the plant has succumbed to a viral infection, not much can be done to revive it. Remove and destroy all compromised plant material to prevent spread to other plants.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Leaf miners
Leaf miners scar the leaves with curved white streaks or rounded white spots with brown centers.
Symptom Analysis
The leaves on your plants are showing clear/white trails, which appear like parts have been hollowed out. These trails are narrow at first and become wide patches over time. In some cases, leaves will be completely hollow and dry on the plant. As the name suggests, leaf miners are responsible.
Leaf miners are most common in the early spring when they begin to hatch and reproduce. They are tiny 1/16th inch larvae that resemble small grains of rice. The larvae are found inside leaves. The adult stage, a fly, lays eggs in between the layers of a leaf. When the eggs hatch, the larvae eat the tender nutritious inner leaves.
Solutions
Leaf miners, although relatively harmless at first, can quickly multiply and devastate your plants in the coming weeks.
For severe cases:
- Spray an organic insecticide. For an organic solution, spray a diluted mixture of azadirachtin, a compound derived from neem seeds, above and below leaves.
- Spray a synthetic insecticide. Spray a product that contains spinosad, such as Entrust, making sure to cover all sides of the leaves.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Introduce beneficial insects that eat leaf miners, such as parasitic wasps or Syrphid flies.
For less severe cases:
- Prune infected tissue. Remove and dispose of leaves that have any sign of leaf miner damage.
Prevention
Although leaf miners are easy to control, preventing them is ideal. Our recommendations are:
- Physically exclude adults. Cover plants with floating row covers as soon as you put them in the ground.
- Remove weeds and debris. Keep your garden weeded to lower the number of plants leaf miners can feed and breed on.
- Avoid introducing infected plants. Carefully inspect new plants for leaf miners before adding them to your garden or home.
- Avoid broad-spectrum pesticides. Leaf miners can usually be controlled by natural predatory insects. Do not apply broad-spectrum insecticides that could harm these beneficial insects.
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Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.
Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
- Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
- Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
- Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
- Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.
Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.
Solutions
There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering:
- Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost.
- Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Prevention
Preventative measures include:
- Ensuring adequate spacing between plants or trees.
- Staking plants that are prone to tumbling to prevent moisture or humidity build up.
- Prune correctly so that there is adequate air movement and remove any dead or diseased branches that may carry spores.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing fallen material and destroying it as soon as possible.
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Leaf deformity
Leaf deformities can have a variety of causes.
Overview
Leaf deformity manifests in the form of curled, cupped, or distorted leaves, often first seen in the spring. There are a number of different possibilities as to the cause and it will not always be easy to isolate the problem without laboratory analysis. In the majority of cases, however, the gardener should be able to isolate the cause through close examination of the plant and the local conditions.
Symptom Analysis
The plant has developed abnormal leaves. They may look similar to leaf curl, but show other problems such as:
- stunting
- abnormal shapes
- a bumpy texture
- gaps between leaf sections
- raised growths on the top surface
Disease Cause
The causes are widespread and varied and the gardener will need to examine plants carefully as well as consider environmental factors.
Disease due to insect damage: Mites, aphids, and other insects that feast on plant leaves can leave them vulnerable to viral and bacterial disease. Some, like leaf galls and rust, produce distorted leaves. If the gardener sees insects on the plants, it is likely the insect is the culprit. Some mites are too small to see, and laboratory analysis may be required.
Herbicide exposure: Herbicides can stress plant leaves. This may lead to stunted growth and a curling, cupped appearance. Even if the plant owner didn't apply herbicides, herbicide drift and planting in contaminated soils can expose plants to these chemicals. If all plants in an area have deformed leaves, the cause is likely herbicides. Herbicide exposure is also characterized by narrow new leaves.
Less than ideal growing conditions: If plants are exposed to cold temperatures right as their leaves are coming out of the bud, they might become stunted and malformed. If deformed leaves occur right after a cold spell or frost, this is likely the cause. Too much and too little water can also cause deformed leaves. Leaves curling down but not distorting is more likely to be a watering issue than a leaf deformity.
Nutrient deficiencies: A lack of critical nutrients during the growing phase, including boron, calcium, and molybdenum, may lead plant leaves to grow stunted or disfigured. If a nutrient deficiency is to blame, the leaves will also show discoloring.
Fungal infections: a variety of fungal pathogens can distort leaves, as is the case with Peach leaf curl.
Solutions
Follow these steps to revive plants with abnormal leaves.
- Remove damaged leaves: Plants can recover from damage when given the time to do so. Remove any deformed leaves so they don't continue drawing energy from the plant. This also creates room for healthier ones to grow.
- Stop using herbicide: Though herbicide damage is challenging to diagnose, gardeners can potentially prevent deformed leaves by not using any and by strictly following manufacturers instructions.
- Spray insecticide: Prevent pests from inhabiting plant leaves by spraying with insecticide regularly and practicing good natural pest prevention techniques.
- Apply a balanced fertilizer: Solve nutrient deficiencies and excesses by using a well-balanced fertilizer (organic or conventional both work) before planting, and consider topdressing when signs of stress are apparent.
- Fix watering schedule: If plant leaves are curled downward due to too much or too little water, adjust the watering schedule so the soil is moist, but not damp.
- Remove infected plants: If the plant has succumbed to a viral infection, not much can be done to revive it. Remove and destroy all compromised plant material to prevent spread to other plants.
Prevention
- Fertilize properly. Keep your plants full of essential nutrients with a balanced fertilizer.
- Regularly monitor for pests. Remove all pests by hand or treat them with an insecticide. Early discovery and treatment will prevent the spread of pests and diseases.
- Provide the proper amount of water. Water until the soil is moist, but not damp. Only once the soil dries out, should the plant be watered again.
- Protect plants from cold. Bring plants indoors or protect them with frost cloth when bad weather is forecast.
- Avoid herbicide exposure. If the gardener or surrounding neighbors are applying herbicides, consider moving vulnerable plants to where they are less exposed to any chemicals that may be carried on the wind.
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Weed Control
Weeds
Convolvulus arvensis is native to Eurasia, but can be found in nearly every country in the world. It is considered noxious in the US, Kenya, Tanzania, and Uganda, and is illegal to import into Australia. Field bindweed grows extremely fast and can produce up to 500 seeds per plant, making it incredibly smothering to native species. It also greatly competes for nutrients, moisture, and light. The seeds can last in the soil for up to 20 years, making it nearly impossible to fully eliminate. Controlling the seedlings and shoots of growth can help keep it contained, but years of intense herbicide use seems to be the only way to fully eliminate field bindweed.
How to Control it
The best time to remove weeds is before their flowering and fructification, otherwise controlling them can be very difficult. After they have flowered and fructified, their seeds can spread very fast, and hence, the weeds should be removed more often and precautions should be taken in advance in the following year. Mulching: During the seed stage, covering the soil with sawdust, straw or black mulches can effectively inhibit seed germination and the growth of seedlings. In the winter or spring, this method is often used to inhibit the seeds in the soil from germinating. If the weeds have already flowered and fructified, then the method can also be used to prevent more seeds from falling into the soil. Pulling out: Wear gloves or use tools to remove weeds before their fructification. If the soil is too dry, then water the soil thoroughly to make it softer, which can help to remove the root systems of the weeds. After that, deep tillage can be adopted to remove bits of weed roots left in the ground. This method works particularly well for weeds that are low-growing or in their seedling stages. Mowing: Mowing weeds before their fructification can effectively control their spread. Especially for annual weeds, frequent mowing can inhibit their growth and fructification, and thus can remove them effectively within the year. Ploughing: Be sure to plough and pull out all roots of perennial weeds before planting. With an average of 16 deep cultivations, the weed can be effectively controlled after two seasons. The roots should be discarded, exposed to the sun for a long time, or buried deep. You can also use the roots to make organic fertilizer and compost the weeds. During the seedling stage, it can be effectively removed by herbicides. Apply herbicides heavily to the plant, and remember to re-apply every time when it reaches 30 cm in length. It can also be eliminated within two seasons, provided that during the period all of its aerial shoots are cut completely and constantly within 12 days of emergence. Boiling water can also be used to eliminate the weed, if there is no other plant growing within 61 to 91 cm of it. Pouring boiling water on the plant as well as about 61 to 91 cm beyond where it is growing can effectively kill it. Competitive plants could impede its growth. Pumpkins, melons or other plants with thorny vines could inhibit field bindweed's growth. Note: When removing weeds, especially those which are toxic, thorny and have allergenic sap, be sure to wear gloves and avoid direct contact with them. When removing weeds during their bloom time, be sure to wear special masks to prevent pollen allergy.
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Distribution Map
Habitat
Hedgerows, Fields, Waste places, Fences
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info
Plant Type
Vine, Herb
Bloom Time
Summer, Fall
Leaf Color
Green
Name story
Field bindweed
This trumpet-shaped flower blossoms everywhere in the garden and has become one of the grass weeds that annoy gardeners. Although the flowers are similar to the morning glory, they are actually not related to each other. The plant continues to spread by winding its stems on other plants in a counterclockwise fashion. Also, it often appears in field areas. So it is called field bindweed.
Symbolism
humility, constancy
Usages
Garden Use
Field bindweed is liked for its heart-shaped leaves and pretty flowers. It is a spreading plant that can be grown as ground cover or as a hedge plant. It can also be grown over trellises or to cover unsightly areas. It may also be grown as an indoor plant. However, care must be taken to not allow it to strangle other plants.
Scientific Classification
Phylum
Vascular plants Class
Dicotyledons Family
Morning-glory Genus
Bindweed Species
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About
Care Guide
Care FAQ
Pests & Diseases
Weed Control
Distribution
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Related Plants
Related Articles
Add to My Garden Field bindweed
Convolvulus arvensis
Also known as: Possession vine, Cornbind
3 to 10
Hardiness Zones
Weeds
Care Guide for Field bindweed
Water
Despite its deep tap roots, Field bindweed benefits from frequent watering, especially during times of little rainfall. It grows best in well-drained soil and should be watered when the surrounding soil starts to dry, especially during the spring and summer growing seasons.
Fertilization
Field bindweed is an invasive weed, albeit one with showy flowers, and its persistent growth and spread is a testament to its ability to thrive without any additional fertilizer. If grown in a garden, the plant's deep tap roots can easily derive all of its nutrient needs from the soil.
Soil
Sand, Chalky, Clay
Sunlight
Full sun, Partial sun
Hardiness Zones
3 to 10
Tips, advice, and instructions for over 13,000 species that you will find nowhere else
Field bindweed
Convolvulus arvensis
Sunlight
Full sun
Planting Time
Spring, Early summer
Harvest Time
Summer, Fall
Download
Questions About Field bindweed
Pruning Sunlight Temperature How can I prune my Field bindweed?
Free
What should I do after pruning my Field bindweed?
How can I prune my Field bindweed during different seasons?
When should I prune my Field bindweed through different stages of growth?
You’ve got questions. We’ve got answers.
Let us help take all the guesswork out of your gardening.
More Questions People Also Ask
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Field bindweed based on 10 million real cases
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Learn More ![more]()
Leaf miners
Leaf miners scar the leaves with curved white streaks or rounded white spots with brown centers.
Solutions: Leaf miners, although relatively harmless at first, can quickly multiply and devastate your plants in the coming weeks. For severe cases: Spray an organic insecticide. For an organic solution, spray a diluted mixture of azadirachtin, a compound derived from neem seeds, above and below leaves. Spray a synthetic insecticide. Spray a product that contains spinosad, such as Entrust, making sure to cover all sides of the leaves. Introduce beneficial insects. Introduce beneficial insects that eat leaf miners, such as parasitic wasps or Syrphid flies. For less severe cases: Prune infected tissue. Remove and dispose of leaves that have any sign of leaf miner damage.
Learn More ![more]()
Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
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Leaf deformity
Leaf deformities can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: Follow these steps to revive plants with abnormal leaves. Remove damaged leaves: Plants can recover from damage when given the time to do so. Remove any deformed leaves so they don't continue drawing energy from the plant. This also creates room for healthier ones to grow. Stop using herbicide: Though herbicide damage is challenging to diagnose, gardeners can potentially prevent deformed leaves by not using any and by strictly following manufacturers instructions. Spray insecticide: Prevent pests from inhabiting plant leaves by spraying with insecticide regularly and practicing good natural pest prevention techniques. Apply a balanced fertilizer: Solve nutrient deficiencies and excesses by using a well-balanced fertilizer (organic or conventional both work) before planting, and consider topdressing when signs of stress are apparent. Fix watering schedule: If plant leaves are curled downward due to too much or too little water, adjust the watering schedule so the soil is moist, but not damp. Remove infected plants: If the plant has succumbed to a viral infection, not much can be done to revive it. Remove and destroy all compromised plant material to prevent spread to other plants.
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Keep your leafy friends healthy and happy.
Diagnose your plant, and learn how to prevent and treat plant diseases.
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Leaf miners
Leaf miners scar the leaves with curved white streaks or rounded white spots with brown centers.
Symptom Analysis
The leaves on your plants are showing clear/white trails, which appear like parts have been hollowed out. These trails are narrow at first and become wide patches over time. In some cases, leaves will be completely hollow and dry on the plant. As the name suggests, leaf miners are responsible.
Leaf miners are most common in the early spring when they begin to hatch and reproduce. They are tiny 1/16th inch larvae that resemble small grains of rice. The larvae are found inside leaves. The adult stage, a fly, lays eggs in between the layers of a leaf. When the eggs hatch, the larvae eat the tender nutritious inner leaves.
Solutions
Leaf miners, although relatively harmless at first, can quickly multiply and devastate your plants in the coming weeks.
For severe cases:
- Spray an organic insecticide. For an organic solution, spray a diluted mixture of azadirachtin, a compound derived from neem seeds, above and below leaves.
- Spray a synthetic insecticide. Spray a product that contains spinosad, such as Entrust, making sure to cover all sides of the leaves.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Introduce beneficial insects that eat leaf miners, such as parasitic wasps or Syrphid flies.
For less severe cases:
- Prune infected tissue. Remove and dispose of leaves that have any sign of leaf miner damage.
Prevention
Although leaf miners are easy to control, preventing them is ideal. Our recommendations are:
- Physically exclude adults. Cover plants with floating row covers as soon as you put them in the ground.
- Remove weeds and debris. Keep your garden weeded to lower the number of plants leaf miners can feed and breed on.
- Avoid introducing infected plants. Carefully inspect new plants for leaf miners before adding them to your garden or home.
- Avoid broad-spectrum pesticides. Leaf miners can usually be controlled by natural predatory insects. Do not apply broad-spectrum insecticides that could harm these beneficial insects.
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Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.
Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
- Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
- Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
- Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
- Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.
Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.
Solutions
There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering:
- Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost.
- Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Prevention
Preventative measures include:
- Ensuring adequate spacing between plants or trees.
- Staking plants that are prone to tumbling to prevent moisture or humidity build up.
- Prune correctly so that there is adequate air movement and remove any dead or diseased branches that may carry spores.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing fallen material and destroying it as soon as possible.
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Leaf deformity
Leaf deformities can have a variety of causes.
Overview
Leaf deformity manifests in the form of curled, cupped, or distorted leaves, often first seen in the spring. There are a number of different possibilities as to the cause and it will not always be easy to isolate the problem without laboratory analysis. In the majority of cases, however, the gardener should be able to isolate the cause through close examination of the plant and the local conditions.
Symptom Analysis
The plant has developed abnormal leaves. They may look similar to leaf curl, but show other problems such as:
- stunting
- abnormal shapes
- a bumpy texture
- gaps between leaf sections
- raised growths on the top surface
Disease Cause
The causes are widespread and varied and the gardener will need to examine plants carefully as well as consider environmental factors.
Disease due to insect damage: Mites, aphids, and other insects that feast on plant leaves can leave them vulnerable to viral and bacterial disease. Some, like leaf galls and rust, produce distorted leaves. If the gardener sees insects on the plants, it is likely the insect is the culprit. Some mites are too small to see, and laboratory analysis may be required.
Herbicide exposure: Herbicides can stress plant leaves. This may lead to stunted growth and a curling, cupped appearance. Even if the plant owner didn't apply herbicides, herbicide drift and planting in contaminated soils can expose plants to these chemicals. If all plants in an area have deformed leaves, the cause is likely herbicides. Herbicide exposure is also characterized by narrow new leaves.
Less than ideal growing conditions: If plants are exposed to cold temperatures right as their leaves are coming out of the bud, they might become stunted and malformed. If deformed leaves occur right after a cold spell or frost, this is likely the cause. Too much and too little water can also cause deformed leaves. Leaves curling down but not distorting is more likely to be a watering issue than a leaf deformity.
Nutrient deficiencies: A lack of critical nutrients during the growing phase, including boron, calcium, and molybdenum, may lead plant leaves to grow stunted or disfigured. If a nutrient deficiency is to blame, the leaves will also show discoloring.
Fungal infections: a variety of fungal pathogens can distort leaves, as is the case with Peach leaf curl.
Solutions
Follow these steps to revive plants with abnormal leaves.
- Remove damaged leaves: Plants can recover from damage when given the time to do so. Remove any deformed leaves so they don't continue drawing energy from the plant. This also creates room for healthier ones to grow.
- Stop using herbicide: Though herbicide damage is challenging to diagnose, gardeners can potentially prevent deformed leaves by not using any and by strictly following manufacturers instructions.
- Spray insecticide: Prevent pests from inhabiting plant leaves by spraying with insecticide regularly and practicing good natural pest prevention techniques.
- Apply a balanced fertilizer: Solve nutrient deficiencies and excesses by using a well-balanced fertilizer (organic or conventional both work) before planting, and consider topdressing when signs of stress are apparent.
- Fix watering schedule: If plant leaves are curled downward due to too much or too little water, adjust the watering schedule so the soil is moist, but not damp.
- Remove infected plants: If the plant has succumbed to a viral infection, not much can be done to revive it. Remove and destroy all compromised plant material to prevent spread to other plants.
Prevention
- Fertilize properly. Keep your plants full of essential nutrients with a balanced fertilizer.
- Regularly monitor for pests. Remove all pests by hand or treat them with an insecticide. Early discovery and treatment will prevent the spread of pests and diseases.
- Provide the proper amount of water. Water until the soil is moist, but not damp. Only once the soil dries out, should the plant be watered again.
- Protect plants from cold. Bring plants indoors or protect them with frost cloth when bad weather is forecast.
- Avoid herbicide exposure. If the gardener or surrounding neighbors are applying herbicides, consider moving vulnerable plants to where they are less exposed to any chemicals that may be carried on the wind.
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Weed Control
Weeds
Convolvulus arvensis is native to Eurasia, but can be found in nearly every country in the world. It is considered noxious in the US, Kenya, Tanzania, and Uganda, and is illegal to import into Australia. Field bindweed grows extremely fast and can produce up to 500 seeds per plant, making it incredibly smothering to native species. It also greatly competes for nutrients, moisture, and light. The seeds can last in the soil for up to 20 years, making it nearly impossible to fully eliminate. Controlling the seedlings and shoots of growth can help keep it contained, but years of intense herbicide use seems to be the only way to fully eliminate field bindweed.
How to Control it
The best time to remove weeds is before their flowering and fructification, otherwise controlling them can be very difficult. After they have flowered and fructified, their seeds can spread very fast, and hence, the weeds should be removed more often and precautions should be taken in advance in the following year. Mulching: During the seed stage, covering the soil with sawdust, straw or black mulches can effectively inhibit seed germination and the growth of seedlings. In the winter or spring, this method is often used to inhibit the seeds in the soil from germinating. If the weeds have already flowered and fructified, then the method can also be used to prevent more seeds from falling into the soil. Pulling out: Wear gloves or use tools to remove weeds before their fructification. If the soil is too dry, then water the soil thoroughly to make it softer, which can help to remove the root systems of the weeds. After that, deep tillage can be adopted to remove bits of weed roots left in the ground. This method works particularly well for weeds that are low-growing or in their seedling stages. Mowing: Mowing weeds before their fructification can effectively control their spread. Especially for annual weeds, frequent mowing can inhibit their growth and fructification, and thus can remove them effectively within the year. Ploughing: Be sure to plough and pull out all roots of perennial weeds before planting. With an average of 16 deep cultivations, the weed can be effectively controlled after two seasons. The roots should be discarded, exposed to the sun for a long time, or buried deep. You can also use the roots to make organic fertilizer and compost the weeds. During the seedling stage, it can be effectively removed by herbicides. Apply herbicides heavily to the plant, and remember to re-apply every time when it reaches 30 cm in length. It can also be eliminated within two seasons, provided that during the period all of its aerial shoots are cut completely and constantly within 12 days of emergence. Boiling water can also be used to eliminate the weed, if there is no other plant growing within 61 to 91 cm of it. Pouring boiling water on the plant as well as about 61 to 91 cm beyond where it is growing can effectively kill it. Competitive plants could impede its growth. Pumpkins, melons or other plants with thorny vines could inhibit field bindweed's growth. Note: When removing weeds, especially those which are toxic, thorny and have allergenic sap, be sure to wear gloves and avoid direct contact with them. When removing weeds during their bloom time, be sure to wear special masks to prevent pollen allergy.
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Do you have weeds in your garden?
Differentiate them from your plants by a picture, and learn how to control them.
Distribution Map
Habitat
Hedgerows, Fields, Waste places, Fences
Map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info
Plant Type
Vine, Herb
Bloom Time
Summer, Fall
Leaf Color
Green
Name story
Field bindweed
This trumpet-shaped flower blossoms everywhere in the garden and has become one of the grass weeds that annoy gardeners. Although the flowers are similar to the morning glory, they are actually not related to each other. The plant continues to spread by winding its stems on other plants in a counterclockwise fashion. Also, it often appears in field areas. So it is called field bindweed.
Symbolism
humility, constancy
Usages
Garden Use
Field bindweed is liked for its heart-shaped leaves and pretty flowers. It is a spreading plant that can be grown as ground cover or as a hedge plant. It can also be grown over trellises or to cover unsightly areas. It may also be grown as an indoor plant. However, care must be taken to not allow it to strangle other plants.
Scientific Classification
Phylum
Vascular plants Class
Dicotyledons Family
Morning-glory Genus
Bindweed Species
Field bindweed Related Plants
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