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Autumn olive play
Autumn olive
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Autumn olive
Autumn olive
Autumn olive
Autumn olive
Autumn olive
Elaeagnus umbellata
Also known as : Autumn elaeagnus, Japanese silverberry
This native Asian tree was planted widely around the US for erosion control. It fruits in bountiful clusters of flavorful, silver-spotted red berries. Unfortunately, autumn olive has outcompeted many local plants and is now considered an invasive species in North America.
Water
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
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Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
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care guide

Care Guide for Autumn olive

Watering Care
Watering Care
Like many plants with average water needs Autumn olive conforms to the "1 in per week" rule of watering. If rainfall provides less water than this each week, the plant will require additional water. This is especially important when the plant is young, so in times of drought, water it deeply once per week.
Details on Watering Care Watering Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilizing Care
When young, autumn olive requires plenty of phosphorus to help it develop strong roots. So, new plants should be fertilized with an all-purpose N-P-K fertilizer that has a high phosphorus content. Once the plant has become established, it can be assisted by the occasional (and sparing) use of nitrogen-rich fertilizer. Too many leaves and fewer buds means the plant is receiving too much fertilizer.
Details on Fertilizing Care Fertilizing Care
Pruning
Pruning
Trim the dead, diseased, overgrown branches in winter.
Details on Pruning Pruning
Soil Care
Soil Care
Sand, Clay, Loam, Chalky, Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
What Are the Lighting Requirements for Autumn olive?
What Are the Lighting Requirements for Autumn olive?
Full sun, Partial sun
Details on Sunlight Requirements What Are the Lighting Requirements for Autumn olive?
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Autumn olive
Water
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
7 to 9
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring, Early summer, Fall, Early winter
question

Questions About Autumn olive

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What's the best method to water my Autumn olive?
You might want to put a garden hose at the plant base to ensure that you're promoting excellent root development. Avoid directly spraying the leaves, and know that the leaves will require more watering if they are outdoors and facing direct sunlight. You can also use bubblers that you can put on to each plant to moisten the roots. Also, use soaker hoses that can cover the entire garden or bed when adding or removing plants to push the roots deeply. Drain any excess water and wait for the soil to dry before watering. Water at ground level to prevent diseases. On a sunny day, you might want to spray the entire bush with water. Whether potted or in-ground, please remember Autumn olive prefers deep watering over light sprinkling.
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What should I do if I water Autumn olive too much/too little?
An overwatered Autumn olive can start to have leaves that turn yellow, drop off and wilt. The plant can also look dull and unhealthy, with signs of mushy stems. When they are beginning to show these signs, it's best to adjust your schedule whenever possible.
The wilting can also be a sign of under watering as well. You might see that the leaves begin to turn crispy and dry while the overwatered ones will have soft wilted leaves. Check the soil when it is dry and watering is not enough, give it a full watering in time. Enough water will make the Autumn olive recover again, but the plant will still appear dry and yellow leaves after a few days due to the damaged root system. Once it return to normal, the leave yellowing will stop .
Always check the moisture levels at the pot when you have the Autumn olive indoors. Avoid overwatering indoors and see if there are signs of black spots. If these are present, let the soil dry in the pot by giving it a few days of rest from watering.
Overwatering can lead to root rot being present in your plant. If this is the case, you might want to transfer them into a different pot, especially if you see discolored and slimy roots. Always prevent root rot as much as possible, and don't let the soil become too soggy.
You should dig a little deeper when you plant your Autumn olive outdoors. When you check with your fingers and notice that the soil is too dry, it could mean underwatering. Adequate watering is required to help the plant recover.
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How often should I water my Autumn olive?
The Autumn olive likes deep and infrequent watering. You would want to soak them in a gallon of water each time, especially when they are planted in pots. The water storage of flower pots is limited and the soil will dry out faster. Watering is required every 3 to 5 days when living in a cold region. Water it early in the morning when the soil is dry, outdoors or indoors. You can also determine if watering is needed by checking the soil inside. When the top 2-3 inches of soil is dry, it is time to give the plant a full watering. During hot days, you may need to check the moisture daily, as the heat can quickly dry out the soil in the pot.
Irrigation of the soil is also required if you have a garden. When you live in a hot climate, you might want to water once a week. Only water when you notice that about 2 to 3 inches of soil become too dry outdoors or indoors. Consider the amount of rainwater on the plant and ensure not to add to it to prevent root rot.You may not need additional watering of the plants if there is a lot of rainfall.Autumn olive generally grows during spring and fall. When they are outdoors, you need to add mulch about 3 to 4 inches deep to conserve more water.
You need to water the plants more frequently in sandy soil because this type tends to drain faster. However, with the clay one, you need to water this less frequently where you could go for 2-3 days to dry the plant and not develop any root rot. You could mark the date on the calendar whenever you water and when you notice that the leaves are starting to droop. This can mean that you might be a day late.
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How much water do I need to give my Autumn olive?
The Autumn olive generally needs about a gallon of water each schedule,With the potted plants, you might want to water them deeply until you see that the water is dripping at the bottom of the pot. Then, wait for the soil to dry before watering them again. You can use a water calculator or a moisture meter to determine the amount you've given to your plant in a week. Provide plenty of water, especially in the flowering period, but let the moisture evaporate afterwards to prevent root rot.
If Autumn olive is planted outdoor with adequate rainfall, it may not need additional watering. When Autumn olive is young or newly planted, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As Autumn olive continues to grow, it can survive entirely on rainfall. Only when the weather is too hot, or when there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving Autumn olive a full watering during the cooler moment of the day to prevent the plant from suffering from high heat damage. Additional watering will be required during persistent dry spells.
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Should I adjust the watering frequency for my Autumn olive according to different seasons or climates?
The Autumn olive needs outdoors come from rain, with only persistent dry weather requiring watering. Throughout the spring and fall growing seasons, the soil needs to be kept moist but not soggy, and alternating dry and moist soil conditions will allow the Autumn olive to grow well. Throughout the summer, hot weather can cause water to evaporate too quickly, and if there is a lack of rainfall, you will need to water more frequently and extra to keep it moist.
Usually, the Autumn olive will need less water during the winter. Since the Autumn olive will drop their leaves and go dormant, you can put them into a well-draining but moisture-retentive soil mixture like the terracotta to help the water evaporate quicker. Once your Autumn olive growing outdoors begins to leaf out and go dormant, you can skip watering altogether and in most cases Autumn olive can rely on the fall and winter rains to survive the entire dormant period.
After the spring, you can cultivate your Autumn olive and encourage it to grow and bloom when the temperature becomes warmer.This plant is not generally a fan of ponding or drought when flowering. You must ensure that the drainage is good at all times, especially during the winter.
When the plant is in a pot, the plant has limited root growth. Keep them well-watered, especially if they are planted in pots during summer. They don't like cold and wet roots, so provide adequate drainage, especially if they are still growing.
It's always best to water your Autumn olive’s diligently. Get the entire root system into a deep soak at least once or twice a week, depending on the weather. It's best to avoid shallow sprinkles that reach the leaves since they generally encourage the growth of fungi and don't reach deep into the roots. Don't allow the Autumn olive’s to dry out completely in the fall or winter, even if they are already dormancy.
Don't drown the plants because they generally don't like sitting in water for too long. They can die during winter if the soil does not drain well. Also, apply mulch whenever possible to reduce stress, conserve water, and encourage healthy blooms.
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What should I be careful with when I water my Autumn olive in different seasons, climates, or during different growing periods?
If planting in the ground, Autumn olive mostly relies on rain. However, if there is no rainfall for 2-3 weeks, you may need to give proper consideration to giving the plants a deep watering. If watering Autumn olive in summer, you should try to do it in the morning. A large temperature difference between the water temperature and the root system can stress the roots. You need to avoid watering the bushes when it's too hot outside. Start mulching them during the spring when the ground is not too cold.
The age of the plants matter. Lack of water is one of the most common reasons the newly planted ones fail to grow. After they are established, you need to ease off the watering schedule.
Reduce watering them during the fall and winter, especially if they have a water-retaining material in the soil. The dry winds in winter can dry them out, and the newly planted ones can be at risk of drought during windy winter, summer, and fall. Windy seasons mean that there's more watering required. The ones planted in the pot tend to dry out faster, so they need more watering. Once you see that they bloom less, the leaves begin to dry up.
Potted plants are relatively complex to water and fluctuate in frequency. Always be careful that the pot-planted plant don't sit in the water. Avoid putting them in containers with saucers, bowls, and trays. Too much watering in the fall can make the foliage look mottled or yellowish. It's always a good idea to prevent overwatering them regardless of the current climate or season that you might have. During the months when Autumn olive begins to flower, you might want to increase the watering frequency but give it a rest once they are fully grown.
Give them an adequate amount of water once every 3 to 5 days but don't give them regular schedules. Make sure the soil is dry by sticking your finger in the pot, or use a moisture meter if you're unsure if it's the right time. Too much root rot can cause them to die, so be careful not to overwater or underwater regardless of the climate or season you have in your area.
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Why is watering my Autumn olive important?
Watering the Autumn olive helps transport the needed nutrients from the soil to the rest of the plant. The moisture will keep this species healthy if you know how much water to give. The watering requirements will depend on the weather in your area and the plant's soil.
The Autumn olive thrives on moist soil, but they can't generally tolerate waterlogging. Ensure to provide enough mulch when planted on the ground and never fall into the trap of watering too little. They enjoy a full can of watering where the water should be moist at the base when they are planted in a pot to get the best blooms.
If they are grown as foliage, you need to water them up to a depth of 10 to 20 inches so they will continue to grow. If it's raining, refrain from watering and let them get the nutrients they need from the rainwater.
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Key Facts About Autumn olive

Attributes of Autumn olive

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Shrub
Planting Time
Spring, Early summer, Fall, Early winter
Bloom Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Early summer, Mid summer
Plant Height
1 m to 4 m
Spread
1.5 m to 3 m
Leaf Color
Green
Gray
Silver
Flower Size
7 mm
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Cream
Fruit Color
Red
Silver
Brown
Copper
Burgundy
Yellow
Gold
Gray
Stem Color
Silver
Gray
Green
Yellow
Cream
Dormancy
Winter dormancy
Leaf type
Deciduous
Growth Rate
Rapid

Name story

Autumn olive
Like the name of the plant, it is the kind of tree that bears fruit during autumn. The red fruits are really lovely and they look like the mini version of olives. Hence, it is called autumn olive. As it is also a highly invasive plant, it has caused lots of troubles to the native plants.

Symbolism

Healing, Peace, Fertility, wisdom

Usages

Garden Use
Autumn olive is prized by gardeners for its petite yet fragrant blooms and attractive silvery, mottled leaves. This small bush or tree is appropriate for use in hedging and borders as it is easily pruned and shaped.

Trivia and Interesting Facts

In the 19th century autumn olive was introduced to the United States as windbreaker hedgerows and for erosion control. By the 20th century, it had widely become a highly invasive weed in most United States. When autumn olive is planted on poor soils, it can enrich the soil because its roots fix nitrogen from the atmosphere. Therefore, it can enrich the yield of orchards if planted nearby.

Scientific Classification of Autumn olive

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Autumn olive

Common issues for Autumn olive based on 10 million real cases
Plant dried up
Plant dried up Plant dried up
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Leaf mites
Leaf mites Leaf mites
Leaf mites
Leaf mites are very small - rarely larger than 4 mm - and are hard to spot. They are usually yellow or red and feed on the plant's sap.
Solutions: Steps to take to remove leaf mites from plants: Physically remove mites from plants Rinse the leaves of houseplants - spray with a hose or wipe with a moist, soapy cloth Apply neem oil or horticultural oil spray - both of these are easy to use and work quickly on mites indoors and in the garden Use a miticide - a broad spray of miticide can eliminate large populations of leaf mites in the garden (however, this risks also risk killing beneficial mites that eat harmful pests) Use natural enemies like lady beetles and predatory mites to control populations Long-lasting pesticides like permethrin and bifenthrin work, but can deter beneficial insects from visiting
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
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Plant dried up
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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Leaf beetles
plant poor
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Leaf mites
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Leaf mites
Leaf mites are very small - rarely larger than 4 mm - and are hard to spot. They are usually yellow or red and feed on the plant's sap.
Overview
Overview
Leaf mites are frustrating pests that can be found on both indoor- and outdoor-grown plants. They affect all kinds of plants, from shrubs to vegetable crops and everything in between. These tiny pests feed on sap through leaves or needles, causing symptoms that are easy to confuse with drought stress. Severely infested plants can die.
These pests are closely related to spiders but don’t offer all the pest-controlling benefits of their close arachnid cousins. They are extremely small, generally about 0.5 mm in length and yellow to orange in color. When infestations are left unchecked, they can severely stunt the growth of plants or even kill them completely.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Leaf mites use piercing and sucking mouthparts to feed on the sap that is present on the underside of needles and leaves. This can cause small white or yellow spots to develop on the plant tissue, until the entire leaf starts to appear bleached or bronzed. This feeding activity can lead new flowers and leaves to develop in stunted or distorted shapes.
While individual mites may be too small to notice easily, they create a webbing that may be the most apparent and characteristic sign of infestation with leaf mites. This webbing affixes the eggs of the next generation to the leaf.
Eggs can survive through winter conditions, although they do not hatch until the weather is hot and dry. Warmer temperatures increase their rate of development, and in summer weather or warm indoor temperatures colonies of leaf mites can reproduce every 1 to 2 weeks.
Leaves may fall from severely infested plants, and without treatment they can become stunted or even die.
Solutions
Solutions
Steps to take to remove leaf mites from plants:
  • Physically remove mites from plants
  • Rinse the leaves of houseplants - spray with a hose or wipe with a moist, soapy cloth
  • Apply neem oil or horticultural oil spray - both of these are easy to use and work quickly on mites indoors and in the garden
  • Use a miticide - a broad spray of miticide can eliminate large populations of leaf mites in the garden (however, this risks also risk killing beneficial mites that eat harmful pests)
  • Use natural enemies like lady beetles and predatory mites to control populations
  • Long-lasting pesticides like permethrin and bifenthrin work, but can deter beneficial insects from visiting
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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Sap-sucking insects
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Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
  1. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
  2. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
  3. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
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Weed Control About Autumn olive

Weeds
Autumn olive is a cultivated for its many uses, from ornamental, to culinary, or for soil erosion prevention. Due to its rapid growth and spread, it is now considered invasive in many countries outside its native range.
How to Control it
It’s best to deal with autumn olive before it is 3 years old and starts producing fruit. Young plants can be manually uprooted, and disposed of in a way that allows the roots to dry out. Cutting and burning have been recorded to stimulate resprouting, which is why a follow-up herbicidal treatment is needed, especially for well-established infestations. Basal bark treatment can be used on stems up to 6-inches thick, or the cut-stump treatment for larger plants. Before picking the herbicide, consult an agricultural expert to find the best active substance and application method for your geographic region.
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distribution

Distribution of Autumn olive

Habitat of Autumn olive

Thickets and thin woods in the lowland and hills
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Autumn olive

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
habit
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More Info on Autumn Olive Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Autumn olive is native to regions in Asia, including China, Japan, and Korea. It is well-adapted to a variety of environmental conditions, including both dry and moist habitats. This plant's natural environment indicates that it can tolerate a range of moisture levels, from dry to moderately moist. While it can withstand short periods of drought, it generally prefers regular watering to maintain healthy growth. It is important to allow the soil to dry slightly between watering to prevent overwatering.
Watering Techniques
Lighting
Full sun
Autumn olive flourishes best under ample light exposure but can also manage in moderate lighting conditions. Originating from environments where abundant light is prevalent, its growth, health, and fruiting can be compromised with inadequate light. Excessive light, however, does not pose significant detrimental effects.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
-10 38 ℃
The native growth environment of autumn olive indicates that it prefers a temperate climate with a temperature range between 15 to 35℃ (59 to 95℉). During winter, it can withstand freezing temperatures and prefers a dormant period. In the summer, it prefers warm temperatures, but it can also tolerate hot temperatures by adjusting its leaves' angle and reducing moisture loss.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
4-6 feet
Transplanting autumn olive is best during the burgeoning warmth of early spring, as it promotes optimal root development. Choose a well-draining, sun-exposed location for this hardy perennial. If needed, provide support during transplant to ensure stability and encourage healthy growth.
Transplant Techniques
Overwinter
15 ℃
Autumn olive originates from East Asia, thriving in climates with harsh winters. Unfazed by low temperatures, autumn olive exhibits natural dormancy and sheds foliage in winter, preparing for spring resurgence. Gardeners nurturing autumn olive should note its hardiness, requiring minimal winter care. Crucially, pruning old, unproductive branches before winter enhances its performance. With autumn olive in your garden, you embrace a resilient beauty that bravely conquers winter's wrath every year.
Winter Techniques
Feng shui direction
East
Autumn olive is believed to carry a rejuvenating energy that may contribute to a pleasant environment. When placed in the East direction, the plant may promote family harmony and enhance nurturing connections. However, consider each person's individual experiences with autumn olive to ensure the optimal Feng Shui placement.
Fengshui Details
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Plants Related to Autumn olive

Chinese mugwort
Chinese mugwort
Chinese mugwort, a member of the daisy family, closely resembles its relative, the Common mugwort (Artemisia vulgaris). However, chinese mugwort has a more intense aroma, which is how the two are distinguished.It can be toxic to highly toxic if consumed, and even handling can cause skin irritation or allergy reactions.
Chinese violet
Chinese violet
Chinese violet (Asystasia gangetica) is an erect or climbing plant that can grow to be 91 cm tall. It has weak, hairy stems. It is an invasive plant with seeds that disperse and spread aggressively. Chinese violet is native to Africa but grows on nearly every continent.
Arrowleaf sida
Arrowleaf sida
Arrowleaf sida (Sida rhombifolia) is a perennial plant with delicate yellow blooms on stiff, almost woody stems. The stems are used to make brooms, giving it the common name "broom jute." It is also used to make cord and twine.
Orchid tree
Orchid tree
Orchid tree (Bauhinia variegata) is a partially deciduous shrub-like tree that can grow from 6 to 8 m tall. Large fragrant flowers resembling orchids blossom from winter to spring. The colors of the flowers range from orchid purple to light pink all in the same blossom. A fast-growing tree that blooms best in full sun makes a spectacular street tree when grown in warm climates.
Chinese silver grass
Chinese silver grass
Chinese silver grass is a perennial grass that can grow 91 to 213 cm. It forms dense clumps from an underground rhizome. The chinese silver grass is grown mainly as an ornamental grass, with silvery leaves and flowers that vary in color based on the cultivar. Be careful where you plant this type of grass; in some zones it can become invasive.
Bradford pear
Bradford pear
The bradford pear is native to China but is considered invasive in the U.S. and Australia. Although it does not self-pollinate, it can become invasive by hybridizing with other plants to create fertile fruits that may seed in natural areas. The bradford pear creates large populations of fruits that are spread by birds and animals, readily rooting in disturbed areas. It also forms thick colonies that may compete with other native species for natural resources. Alternative plants include the Trident Maple and the Serviceberry. The bradford pear can be controlled by manually pulling young plants, and a range of herbicides such as oil-based herbicides, foliar herbicides, and both basal bark and stump treatments. It is important to remove seed sources as the weed can reinvade areas where it has been previously removed.
Poison ivy
Poison ivy
In pop culture, poison ivy is a symbol of an obnoxious weed because, despite its unthreatening looks, it gives a highly unpleasant contact rash to the unfortunate person who touches it. Still, it is commonly eaten by many animals, and the seeds are a favorite with birds. The leaves turn bright red in fall. Its sister species, Western poison ivy (Toxicodendron rydbergii), is not considered to be invasive in the United States, but is noxious in Australia and New Zealand.
Pokeweed
Pokeweed
Although its berries look juicy and tempting, the fruits and the root of pokeweed are toxic and should not be eaten. Pokeweed is considered a pest species by farmers but is nevertheless often grown as an ornamental plant. Its berries can be made into pokeberry ink as well.
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Autumn olive
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Autumn olive
Elaeagnus umbellata
Also known as: Autumn elaeagnus, Japanese silverberry
This native Asian tree was planted widely around the US for erosion control. It fruits in bountiful clusters of flavorful, silver-spotted red berries. Unfortunately, autumn olive has outcompeted many local plants and is now considered an invasive species in North America.
Water
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
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Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
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Questions About Autumn olive

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
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What's the best method to water my Autumn olive?
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Key Facts About Autumn olive

Attributes of Autumn olive

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Shrub
Planting Time
Spring, Early summer, Fall, Early winter
Bloom Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Early summer, Mid summer
Plant Height
1 m to 4 m
Spread
1.5 m to 3 m
Leaf Color
Green
Gray
Silver
Flower Size
7 mm
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Cream
Fruit Color
Red
Silver
Brown
Copper
Burgundy
Yellow
Gold
Gray
Stem Color
Silver
Gray
Green
Yellow
Cream
Dormancy
Winter dormancy
Leaf type
Deciduous
Growth Rate
Rapid
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Name story

Autumn olive
Like the name of the plant, it is the kind of tree that bears fruit during autumn. The red fruits are really lovely and they look like the mini version of olives. Hence, it is called autumn olive. As it is also a highly invasive plant, it has caused lots of troubles to the native plants.

Symbolism

Healing, Peace, Fertility, wisdom

Usages

Garden Use
Autumn olive is prized by gardeners for its petite yet fragrant blooms and attractive silvery, mottled leaves. This small bush or tree is appropriate for use in hedging and borders as it is easily pruned and shaped.

Trivia and Interesting Facts

In the 19th century autumn olive was introduced to the United States as windbreaker hedgerows and for erosion control. By the 20th century, it had widely become a highly invasive weed in most United States. When autumn olive is planted on poor soils, it can enrich the soil because its roots fix nitrogen from the atmosphere. Therefore, it can enrich the yield of orchards if planted nearby.

Scientific Classification of Autumn olive

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Autumn olive

Common issues for Autumn olive based on 10 million real cases
Plant dried up
Plant dried up Plant dried up Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Learn More About the Plant dried up more
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More About the Aged yellow and dry more
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Learn More About the Leaf beetles more
Leaf mites
Leaf mites Leaf mites Leaf mites
Leaf mites are very small - rarely larger than 4 mm - and are hard to spot. They are usually yellow or red and feed on the plant's sap.
Solutions: Steps to take to remove leaf mites from plants: Physically remove mites from plants Rinse the leaves of houseplants - spray with a hose or wipe with a moist, soapy cloth Apply neem oil or horticultural oil spray - both of these are easy to use and work quickly on mites indoors and in the garden Use a miticide - a broad spray of miticide can eliminate large populations of leaf mites in the garden (however, this risks also risk killing beneficial mites that eat harmful pests) Use natural enemies like lady beetles and predatory mites to control populations Long-lasting pesticides like permethrin and bifenthrin work, but can deter beneficial insects from visiting
Learn More About the Leaf mites more
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More About the Brown spot more
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects Sap-sucking insects Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Learn More About the Sap-sucking insects more
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Plant dried up
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Aged yellow and dry
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Leaf beetles
plant poor
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
  1. Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
  2. Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
  3. Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
  4. Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Leaf mites
plant poor
Leaf mites
Leaf mites are very small - rarely larger than 4 mm - and are hard to spot. They are usually yellow or red and feed on the plant's sap.
Overview
Overview
Leaf mites are frustrating pests that can be found on both indoor- and outdoor-grown plants. They affect all kinds of plants, from shrubs to vegetable crops and everything in between. These tiny pests feed on sap through leaves or needles, causing symptoms that are easy to confuse with drought stress. Severely infested plants can die.
These pests are closely related to spiders but don’t offer all the pest-controlling benefits of their close arachnid cousins. They are extremely small, generally about 0.5 mm in length and yellow to orange in color. When infestations are left unchecked, they can severely stunt the growth of plants or even kill them completely.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Leaf mites use piercing and sucking mouthparts to feed on the sap that is present on the underside of needles and leaves. This can cause small white or yellow spots to develop on the plant tissue, until the entire leaf starts to appear bleached or bronzed. This feeding activity can lead new flowers and leaves to develop in stunted or distorted shapes.
While individual mites may be too small to notice easily, they create a webbing that may be the most apparent and characteristic sign of infestation with leaf mites. This webbing affixes the eggs of the next generation to the leaf.
Eggs can survive through winter conditions, although they do not hatch until the weather is hot and dry. Warmer temperatures increase their rate of development, and in summer weather or warm indoor temperatures colonies of leaf mites can reproduce every 1 to 2 weeks.
Leaves may fall from severely infested plants, and without treatment they can become stunted or even die.
Solutions
Solutions
Steps to take to remove leaf mites from plants:
  • Physically remove mites from plants
  • Rinse the leaves of houseplants - spray with a hose or wipe with a moist, soapy cloth
  • Apply neem oil or horticultural oil spray - both of these are easy to use and work quickly on mites indoors and in the garden
  • Use a miticide - a broad spray of miticide can eliminate large populations of leaf mites in the garden (however, this risks also risk killing beneficial mites that eat harmful pests)
  • Use natural enemies like lady beetles and predatory mites to control populations
  • Long-lasting pesticides like permethrin and bifenthrin work, but can deter beneficial insects from visiting
Prevention
Prevention
The best way to prevent leaf mites from infesting plants is to keep them as healthy as possible. Provide them with appropriate amounts of water, sunlight, and fertilizer, depending on their unique needs. Also, do the following:
  • Inspect plants regularly for leaf mites - do this every three days when conditions are hot and dry
  • Dust or rinse the leaves of houseplants on a regular basis
  • Provide at least one inch of water per week to plants
  • Avoid fertilizing during a drought
  • Select plants that are able to handle drought conditions with ease
  • Clean garden or growing area after every single crop cycle
  • Remove all weeds, as they may be host plants for leaf mites.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Sap-sucking insects
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Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
  1. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
  2. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
  3. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
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weed

Weed Control About Autumn olive

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Weeds
Autumn olive is a cultivated for its many uses, from ornamental, to culinary, or for soil erosion prevention. Due to its rapid growth and spread, it is now considered invasive in many countries outside its native range.
How to Control it
It’s best to deal with autumn olive before it is 3 years old and starts producing fruit. Young plants can be manually uprooted, and disposed of in a way that allows the roots to dry out. Cutting and burning have been recorded to stimulate resprouting, which is why a follow-up herbicidal treatment is needed, especially for well-established infestations. Basal bark treatment can be used on stems up to 6-inches thick, or the cut-stump treatment for larger plants. Before picking the herbicide, consult an agricultural expert to find the best active substance and application method for your geographic region.
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distribution

Distribution of Autumn olive

Habitat of Autumn olive

Thickets and thin woods in the lowland and hills
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Autumn olive

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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Plants Related to Autumn olive

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Water
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Autumn Olive Watering Instructions
Autumn olive is native to regions in Asia, including China, Japan, and Korea. It is well-adapted to a variety of environmental conditions, including both dry and moist habitats. This plant's natural environment indicates that it can tolerate a range of moisture levels, from dry to moderately moist. While it can withstand short periods of drought, it generally prefers regular watering to maintain healthy growth. It is important to allow the soil to dry slightly between watering to prevent overwatering.
When Should I Water My Autumn Olive?
Introduction
Proper and timely watering plays a crucial role in maintaining the overall health and development of the autumn olive. It contributes to its optimal growth, vibrant fruit production, and resistance against diseases. Therefore, understanding the appropriate signals indicating when the plant should be watered is essential.
Soil Moisture
A clear sign of when autumn olive needs water is the moisture level of the soil. Check the soil by inserting a finger or a moisture meter into the soil. If the soil feels dry to the touch in the top 1 to 2 inches, it is a signal that the plant requires watering.
Leaf Condition
The condition of the leaves of autumn olive can also be a reliable indicator for watering needs. If the leaves appear wilted, droopy, or have a dull color, it is a sign of under-watering. Additionally, if the leaves curl up or become crispy, it indicates that the plant is lacking water.
Leaf Color
Pay attention to the color of the leaves. If they start turning yellow or brown and fall off easily, it suggests that the plant is not receiving enough water to support healthy foliage growth.
Fruit Production
During periods of fruit formation, autumn olive requires consistent moisture levels to ensure proper development and yield. If the fruit becomes small, shriveled, or prematurely drops off, it is an indication that the plant needs more water.
Temperature and Weather Conditions
Higher temperatures and prolonged exposure to direct sunlight increase the water requirements of autumn olive. If the weather is hot and dry, or if the plant is exposed to strong sunlight for extended periods, it is necessary to provide additional watering to meet the plant's needs.
Early Watering Risks
Watering autumn olive too early, when the soil is still moist, could risk root rot, fungus infestation, and other root diseases due to over-watering.
Late Watering Risks
Watering autumn olive too late, when it has been excessively dry for an extended period, could risk temporary wilting and might stunt the plant's growth. In extreme conditions, it can lead to plant death due to dehydration.
Conclusion
Understanding these signs is critical to effectively manage the watering schedule for the autumn olive. Proper water management not only encourages its growth and fruit development but also prolongs its life span and maintains plant health.
How Should I Water My Autumn Olive?
Watering Requirements
Elaeagnus umbellata, has specific watering needs and sensitivities that should be considered for optimal hydration.
Watering Technique
Bottom-watering is an effective method to ensure the roots of Elaeagnus umbellata get adequate moisture without over-saturating the surface. This technique involves placing the plant pot in a tray or saucer filled with water and allowing the roots to absorb water from the bottom up. It prevents excess moisture on the foliage and minimizes the risk of fungal diseases.
Watering Can Type
When using a watering can, it is recommended to choose one with a narrow spout to direct the water flow directly to the base of the plant. This helps to avoid wetting the foliage excessively and promotes targeted hydration at the root level.
How Much Water Does Autumn Olive Really Need?
Introduction
Autumn olive is a plant that originally thrives in conditions where it has access to sufficient, but not excessive, amounts of moisture. Similar to its natural habitats along river banks and wet forest margins, in captivity, autumn olive relies on thoughtful watering practices to emulate this environment.
Optimal Water Quantity
The optimal water quantity for autumn olive largely varies based on factors like pot size, root depth, and plant size. Given autumn olive's moderately deep root system, a thorough soaking is needed, ensuring the water penetrates deeply into the soil and reaches the roots. The plant size affects the amount of water required - larger autumn olive plants need more water compared to smaller ones. If grown in a pot, the size of the pot also has a significant role. Larger pots require more water, however, it's important to make sure the pot has sufficient drainage to prevent waterlogging.
Signs and Conditions
Signs of appropriate watering in autumn olive include supple leaves and vigorous growth. The leaves of autumn olive should retain their shiny, silver-green appearance and feel soft to the touch. If under-watered, the leaves of autumn olive might start wilting or curling. Conversely, overwatering can lead to yellowing leaves and potentially, root rot. Hence, maintaining an optimal moisture balance is pivotal for this water-sensitive plant.
Over or Under Watering
While autumn olive is a relatively hardy plant, its health can decline severely due to irregular watering. Overwatering can drown the roots, preventing them from extracting vital oxygen, while under-watering leaves the plant dehydrated and strained. In both scenarios, autumn olive might show stunted growth, and in extreme cases, both practices can lead to the plant's death.
How Often Should I Water Autumn Olive?
Every 1-2 weeks
Watering Frequency
Smart Seasonal Watering
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Just like people, each plant has its own preferences and needs. Devote time to understanding your plants so you can nurture them properly. Observe your plants attentively, learning from their growth patterns, and becoming more in tune with their needs as you grow together. Keep a watchful eye on new plants and seedlings, as they are sensitive to both overwatering and underwatering. Shower them with gentle love and attention, fostering their growth and strength. Let the rhythm of your local climate guide your watering habits, adapting your schedule to the changing weather and the needs of your plants.
What Kind of Water is Best for Autumn Olive?
Water Type Guide for autumn olive
Water Sensitivity: Moderate - autumn olive prefers well-draining soil and should not be overly saturated with water.
Water Types
Rainwater: Best suited for autumn olive as it is natural, free of chemicals, and has a balanced pH level. Distilled Water: Another suitable option for autumn olive, as it is pure and free from any contaminants. Tap Water: Can be used if no other water sources are available. However, it may contain chlorine, fluoride, and other minerals that can potentially harm autumn olive. Filtered Water: A viable alternative to tap water, especially if it effectively removes harmful elements.
Chlorine Sensitivity
Moderate - autumn olive is somewhat sensitive to chlorine, which can negatively affect its health. It is advisable to let tap water sit out for at least 24 hours to allow chlorine to evaporate before using it on autumn olive.
Fluoride Sensitivity
Low - autumn olive can tolerate low levels of fluoride in water, but high concentrations can be detrimental to its growth and health.
Mineral Sensitivity
Moderate - autumn olive prefers water with a neutral pH level and is sensitive to high levels of specific minerals such as iron or copper.
Water Temperature Preferences
Moderate - autumn olive generally prefers water at room temperature (around 68-72°F or 20-22°C). Extreme temperatures, both hot and cold, can cause stress or shock to the plant.
How Do Autumn Olive's Watering Needs Change with the Seasons?
How to Water autumn olive in Spring?
Spring signals the onset of a new growth cycle for autumn olive. Rainfall tends to be more abundant during this season, which often minimizes the need for supplemental watering. However, shoulder seasons can have erratic weather patterns, so monitor the soil and adjust water levels accordingly. Prolonged dry weather will necessitate considered and careful watering, ensuring that the root zone receives adequate moisture. Avoid overwatering as autumn olive dislikes waterlogged conditions, which can lead to root diseases.
How to Water autumn olive in Summer?
During the hot summer months, autumn olive will be in an active growth phase. With increased sunlight and higher temperatures, the plant's water consumption is at its highest. Ensure sufficient hydration to cope with the heat and growing needs but be cautious not to overwater, as autumn olive has moderate drought tolerance. Watering should be deep enough to promote root growth but let the soil dry out before the next watering, ensuring it does not remain waterlogged.
How to Water autumn olive in Autumn?
Autumn heralds the slowing of autumn olive's growth as the plant prepares for winter dormancy. While rainfall may naturally reduce the watering needs, it's important to provide sufficient water to retain the plant's vigor and health. Follow a less frequent watering schedule compared to summer and allow the soil to slightly dry out between watering. This can help autumn olive transition to its dormant phase by conserving its resources.
How to Water autumn olive in Winter?
Autumn olive's watering needs decrease significantly during winter when the plant is in dormancy. Too much water in cold conditions can result in root rot and other complications. So, only water autumn olive if extended dry periods happen and always ensure the soil has dried out sufficiently from the last round of watering. Do remember, however, that indoor or potted specimens may require a bit more water than those planted outside, due to different environmental conditions.
What Expert Tips Can Enhance Autumn Olive Watering Routine?
Watering Tools:
Using a watering can or a soaker hose is recommended for watering autumn olive. These tools provide a gentle and even distribution of water, ensuring that the plant receives adequate moisture without causing damage to the foliage or soil compaction.
Morning Watering:
Watering autumn olive in the morning allows the water to be absorbed by the roots before the heat of the day causes rapid evaporation. This timing also minimizes the risk of fungal diseases by allowing the foliage to dry before evening.
Checking Soil Moisture:
To assess the moisture levels of autumn olive's soil, avoid relying solely on the surface appearance. Instead, use a garden trowel or your finger to dig a few inches deep and feel the soil. If it feels dry at that depth, it is an indication that watering is needed.
Watering Frequency:
While autumn olive prefers well-drained soil, it still requires regular watering during dry periods, especially in the first couple of years after planting. However, be cautious not to over-water, as it can lead to root rot. Adjust the watering frequency based on weather conditions and the plant's specific needs.
Drought Tolerance:
Contrary to common misconceptions, autumn olive is relatively drought-tolerant once established. It has the ability to survive and thrive in drier conditions without requiring frequent watering. Therefore, allowing the soil to dry out slightly between waterings is ideal for this plant.
Signs of Thirst:
Look for signs of wilting or drooping foliage, which indicate that autumn olive is in need of water. However, it is important to note that some leaf drop during extreme heat or drought is natural for this species.
Avoid Over-Watering:
Over-watering can be detrimental to the health of autumn olive. To prevent this, ensure that the soil has proper drainage, as sitting in waterlogged soil can lead to root rot. Additionally, avoid watering too frequently, especially during extended rainy periods.
Adjusting Watering during Heatwaves:
During heatwaves, autumn olive may require more frequent watering to withstand the high temperatures. Monitor the soil moisture regularly and increase watering accordingly, ensuring that the water is reaching the plant's roots.
Adjusting Watering during Extended Rainfall:
When autumn olive experiences prolonged periods of rainfall, it is important to reduce watering frequency to prevent the soil from becoming overly saturated. Allow the soil to dry out between rain showers before watering again.
Watering Stressed Plants:
If autumn olive is showing signs of stress, such as wilting, despite adequate moisture, consider providing a deep watering to help alleviate stress. This will encourage the plant to grow deeper roots, making it more resilient to future dry periods.
Considering Hydroponics? How to Manage a Water-Grown Autumn Olive?
Overview of Hydroponics
Autumn olive is a plant that can be grown hydroponically, which means it can be cultivated without the use of soil. Hydroponics is a method of growing plants in a water-based nutrient solution, providing all the essential elements necessary for plant growth in a controlled environment. This method offers several benefits, including faster growth rates, higher yields, and the ability to grow plants in areas with limited access to soil.
Hydroponic System
The deep water culture (DWC) system is the most suitable hydroponic system for growing autumn olive. In this system, the plant's roots are submerged in a nutrient-rich solution, allowing for maximum nutrient uptake. The DWC system provides ample oxygen to the roots through the use of an air stone or air pump, ensuring healthy root development and avoiding root rot.
Nutrient Solution Requirements
For optimal growth, autumn olive requires a balanced nutrient solution with adequate amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (NPK), as well as essential micronutrients. The recommended concentrations for the nutrient solution are as follows: Nitrogen (N): 100-150 ppm, Phosphorus (P): 50-75 ppm, Potassium (K): 150-200 ppm. Additionally, autumn olive prefers a slightly acidic pH range of 5.8-6.5. It is important to monitor and adjust the nutrient solution regularly to maintain optimal nutrient levels for the plant.
Challenges and Common Issues
When growing autumn olive hydroponically, it is essential to prevent root rot by maintaining proper oxygenation and avoiding overwatering. Root rot can occur if the roots are constantly submerged in stagnant water or if the nutrient solution is not adequately oxygenated. Additionally, maintaining nutrient balance is crucial to prevent nutrient imbalances, which can lead to plant stress or deficiencies. Autumn olive requires sufficient light for photosynthesis, so providing proper lighting conditions is crucial for healthy growth.
Monitoring Plant Health
To monitor the health of autumn olive in a hydroponic setup, it is important to regularly check the roots for any signs of rot or discoloration. Healthy roots should be white or light brown in color. Any sliminess or darkening of the roots may indicate root rot. Additionally, observing the leaves for any signs of nutrient deficiencies or excesses, such as yellowing or browning of the leaves, can help identify any issues with the nutrient solution.
Adjusting Hydroponic Environment
As autumn olive progresses through its growth stages, it may require adjustments to the hydroponic environment. During the vegetative stage, autumn olive benefits from higher nitrogen levels in the nutrient solution to support leaf and stem growth. As it transitions to the flowering stage, increasing the phosphorus and potassium levels can promote flower and fruit development. Adjusting the lighting duration and intensity can also play a crucial role in optimizing growth at different stages.
Nutrient Solution
Autumn olive prefers a balanced nutrient solution with a pH of 5.8-6.5 for optimal growth.
Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Autumn olive is more susceptible to developing disease symptoms when overwatered because it prefers a soil environment with moderate humidity. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, root rot, leaf drop...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Yellowing leaves
When plants receive too much water, the roots become oxygen deprived and the bottom leaves of the plant gradually turn yellow.
Root rot
Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Leaf drop
When plants are overwatered, they may shed their leaves as a response to stress, even if the leaves appear green and healthy.
Mold and mildew
Overwatered plants create a damp environment that can encourage the growth of mold and mildew on soil.
Increased susceptibility diseases
Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
Autumn olive is more susceptible to plant health issues when lacking watering, as it can only tolerate short periods of drought. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, yellowing leaves, leaf drop...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Wilting
Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Root damage
Prolonged underwatering can cause root damage, making it difficult for the plant to absorb water even when it is available.
Dry stems
Due to insufficient water, plant stems may become dry or brittle, making the branches easy to break.
Dying plant
If underwatering continues for an extended period, the plant may ultimately die as a result of severe water stress and an inability to carry out essential functions.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.
Watering Troubleshooting for Autumn Olive
Why are the leaves on my autumn olive wilting even though I've been watering it regularly?
This problem might be due to overwatering. Autumn olive tends to prefer dry to mildly moist soil, and overwatering can lead to waterlogged soil and root rot. Reduce the frequency of your waterings, ensuring the soil dries out a bit between each one.
Why are the leaf tips on my autumn olive turning brown?
Brown leaf tips can be a sign of underwatering. While autumn olive is drought-resistant, it does need some water to stay healthy. Make sure you're providing consistent water, especially during dry spells.
My autumn olive has yellow leaves. Could this be due to watering issues?
Yes, this could be a symptom of overwatering. Too much water can lead to oxygen deprivation and root rot, which can make leaves turn yellow. Allow the soil to dry out before watering again, to help improve plant health.
The lower leaves on my autumn olive are dropping off, is this related to watering?
While occasional leaf drop is normal, if it's excessive, it might be a sign of water stress. Autumn olive prefers well-drained soil, so ensure that your plant isn't sitting in water. Improve drainage if necessary.
Why are the leaves of my autumn olive shriveling despite regular watering?
This could be a sign of overwatering or underwatering. It's important to balance moisture levels in autumn olive's soil. Let it dry out before watering, but provide consistent water to avoid shriveling.
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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Autumn olive flourishes best under ample light exposure but can also manage in moderate lighting conditions. Originating from environments where abundant light is prevalent, its growth, health, and fruiting can be compromised with inadequate light. Excessive light, however, does not pose significant detrimental effects.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Autumn olive thrives in full sunlight but is sensitive to heat. As a plant commonly grown outdoors with abundant sunlight, it may exhibit subtle symptoms of light deficiency when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting.
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Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your autumn olive may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Autumn olive enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Autumn olive thrives in full sun exposure but is sensitive to heat. Although sunburn symptoms occasionally occur, they are unable to withstand intense sunlight in high-temperature environments.
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Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
The native growth environment of autumn olive indicates that it prefers a temperate climate with a temperature range between 15 to 35℃ (59 to 95℉). During winter, it can withstand freezing temperatures and prefers a dormant period. In the summer, it prefers warm temperatures, but it can also tolerate hot temperatures by adjusting its leaves' angle and reducing moisture loss.
Regional wintering strategies
Autumn olive has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by wrapping the trunk and branches with materials such as non-woven fabric or cloth. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Autumn olive is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, the branches may become brittle and dry during springtime, and no new shoots will emerge.
Solutions
In spring, prune away any dead branches that have failed to produce new leaves.
High Temperature
During summer, Autumn olive should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, the tips may become dry and withered, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Autumn Olive?
Transplanting autumn olive is best during the burgeoning warmth of early spring, as it promotes optimal root development. Choose a well-draining, sun-exposed location for this hardy perennial. If needed, provide support during transplant to ensure stability and encourage healthy growth.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Autumn Olive?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Autumn Olive?
The perfect moment to transplant autumn olive would be in the lively onset of spring. This provides autumn olive enough time to set roots before the summer. Transplanting autumn olive at this juncture means maximising its chances for survival and growth, ensuring a healthy plant for the upcoming seasons. Rest assured, your efforts to move autumn olive during this season will pay off!
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Autumn Olive Plants?
For autumn olive, it's best to give each plant ample room to grow. Space your transplants about 4-6 feet (1.2-1.8 meters) apart. This way, they'll have plenty of space to flourish and reach their full potential!
What is the Best Soil Mix for Autumn Olive Transplanting?
For a happy and healthy autumn olive, choose well-draining soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH (6.0-7.0). Mix in some organic matter or compost for extra nutrients. A balanced, slow-release fertilizer like 10-10-10 works well for this perennial!
Where Should You Relocate Your Autumn Olive?
A great spot for your autumn olive transplant is a location that gets full sun to partial shade. These plants can adapt to various light conditions, but they'll produce the most fruit and have a better growth performance in sunnier spots!
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Autumn Olive?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the plant and soil.
Trowel
Useful for digging smaller niches and detaching smaller roots.
Spade or Shovel
Needed for digging holes in the transplant location as well as removing autumn olive from their original location.
Pruning Shears
To trim any dead or overgrown parts of the autumn olive plant before transplanting.
Watering Can
Used to water the plant before and after transplanting.
Burlap
This is used to wrap the root ball if the transplant location is far from the original location.
How Do You Remove Autumn Olive from the Soil?
From Ground: Initially, dampen the soil around the autumn olive plant using a watering can. Then, dig a trench around the plant using a spade or shovel, ensuring the plant's root ball remains intact. Gradually work the spade under the root ball to lift the plant from its original location. To prevent root damage, you may carry the plant to its new location wrapped in burlap.
From Pot: Begin by watering the pot soil. Then, tip the pot to its side and gently coax the autumn olive plant out, being careful not to yank or tug. The plant should slide out with its root ball and soil intact.
From Seedling Tray: Saturate the tray with water, making it easier to take out the autumn olive seedlings. Be sure to hold the seedling by its leaves to prevent damage to the stem and gently push the base of the seedling from the bottom of the tray to release it.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Autumn Olive
Step1 Plan Ahead
Make sure to plan your transplanting on a cloudy day or during the cooler parts of the day to reduce stress on the plant.
Step2 Prepare the Plant
Prune any dead or overgrown branches of the autumn olive plant using pruning shears. This helps the plant focus its energy on root development.
Step3 Hole Preparation
Using your shovel, dig a hole that is 2-3 times wider and a bit deeper than the previously occupied soil by the plant.
Step4 Planting
Place the autumn olive in the hole. The top surface of the root ball should be level with the ground. Fill in the space around the root ball with soil, and gently pat it down with your hands.
Step5 Watering
Thoroughly water the plant to settle the soil around the roots. The soil should be moist, but be careful not to water so much that it becomes soggy.
How Do You Care For Autumn Olive After Transplanting?
Monitoring
For the first few weeks, monitor your transplanted autumn olive closely to ensure it's adjusting well to the new environment.
Adjust Watering
Tailor your watering schedule according to the plant's needs. If the leaves seem wilted during the first few weeks, give more water. Look out for waterlogging and fungal growth.
Trimming
Trim any dead or damaged leaves that might appear over time. This ensures the plant is channeling energy into new growth.
Patience
Keep in mind, it's normal if the autumn olive takes some time to show new growth after transplanting. Be patient, and it will reward you with lush, healthy growth.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Autumn Olive Transplantation.
What is the best time to transplant autumn olive?
Early spring with the arrival of new budding leaves, is the perfect time to transplant autumn olive.
How much space should be there between autumn olive when replanting them?
Autumn olive has a mature spread of around 4-6 feet(1.2-1.8 m), hence optimal spacing is the same.
What is the optimal soil condition for transplanting autumn olive?
Autumn olive requires well-draining soil with plenty of organic matter. Soil pH should be slightly acidic.
Does autumn olive require any special preparation before transplanting?
Yes, soak the roots of autumn olive in water and prune any damaged roots before transplanting.
What care should be taken while digging up autumn olive for transplanting?
Carefully dig around the root zone, making sure not to harm the root ball, to prevent post-transplant shock.
How deep should I plant autumn olive?
Plant autumn olive at the same depth as the original planting. Don't bury too deep to avoid root rot.
What's the optimal watering routine immediately after transplanting autumn olive?
Immediately after transplanting, water autumn olive thoroughly, thereafter water moderately but consistently until new growth appears.
Can I apply fertilizer immediately after transplantation?
Wait for 2-3 weeks post transplantation before applying balanced fertilizer to autumn olive, allowing it to adjust to the transplant first.
Do autumn olive need staking when I replant them?
Autumn olive generally stand upright on their own, but a little staking during initial settling can give them extra support.
How can I reduce transplant shock in autumn olive?
Minimize root disturbance, water properly and provide good aftercare. Apply a root growth stimulator to minimize the transplant shock of autumn olive.
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